This Box Builds Circuit Boards
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2024
- Brand new controller for a brand new version of the LumenPnP! Clearing up the staging plate, switching to all SMT, and prepping for a cool new thing we're working on...
Check out PCBWay for your next PCB!: www.pcbway.com/
OHM Podcast: shows.acast.com/ohm-podcast
LumenPnP Firmware: github.com/opulo-inc/lumenpnp...
Feeder Firmware: github.com/photonfirmware/pho...
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Don't forget to check out the OHM Podcast! shows.acast.com/ohm-podcast
For the connectors: Connect the mechical pad to a larger copper fill so there is more adhesion and use vias to add more mechanical strenght.
yeah i made the mistake of leaving the mechanical pads isolated on this rev, the community corrected me on that one! next beta is connected to the ground pour
Came here to say the same thing.. Have seen motherboards with surface mount connectors use grid vias which I assume act as more or less a through hole connector.
@@stephen_hawesgreat response, real Agile spirit. Also new content for a channel 😊
Vias improve adhesion, but there's
a limit because the via plating isn't very thick. And connecting direct to copper pour is a bad idea for soldering. Surface mount connectors simply are not as good as through hole. Pin in paste so through hole components can be reflow soldered is more or less the perfect middle ground
If there is insufficient ground pour around a mechanical pad or space constrained, then I would like to add there is a little trick that can be done to improve the strength of mechanical vias... you can either place a single 0.3mm or 0.4mm via in the center of the mechanical pad or one on each corner of the rectangular pad (depends how large the pad is). When squeegeeing the solder paste, it fills the via and during reflow it creates a "solder leg" like with through-hole soldering - which is very strong. The other side of the via must be left open though (no tenting) and have a very small solder mask expansion (5%) to allow hot trapped air to escape and to prevent wicking the solder respectively.
I've used this a few times on automotive electronics because vibrations in vehicles is so bad that SMT connector just fall off eventually.
Stephen: builds a PnP Machine and a company around it.
Also Stephen: Populates the mobo for said machine manually xD
Sometimes you just want the Zen of populating a board manually.
...and it can be faster if you only need to make one.
AHAHAH true! i actually made a calculator to determine when it makes sense to set up the PnP!: compare.opulo.io/
😂 the ultimate "Tool or Project" solution! I am always inspired by your commitment to true efficiency, not just shaving off seconds that will cost minutes.
@@stephen_hawesI think that could have done with a little comment as it confused me for a moment. ;)
PS. Great to see how far you’ve come with your “little project”!
@@stephen_hawes That is very helpful, thanks! As a hobbyist who has done runs from quantity one to 100, I've wondered about the point where it makes sense to use a PnP.
I don’t even care about PnP boards, I just like this guy. Pretty cool
That new mainboard looks gorgeous. Great work on the layout
thanks! tons of help from the community on the layout, lots of feedback during development
Looks awesome!
Food for thought: pressure sensors on daughterboard(s)
I’d be concerned that either the fitting or the sensor would degrade over time.End user servicing of it seems likely. Not having to hand solder or replace the motherboard would be nice.
I’m calling this the reverse clickbait: The title piques my interest, and the actual content is SO much more delightful than I expected!!
Also: I’m hoping to quickly get to the point where it makes sense for me to buit one of these cause this machine looks awesome 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I love this guy. He is literally always excited about Electronics and it's great to see!
USB C High Speed (2.0) SMD Connector as a suggestion.
There are a few now which don't have any parts sticking through the bottom of the board.
Stuff like the GT-USB-7047A
We are not going to act like this didn't make our day! You should do more uploads, Stephen! 🤟
OMG I'm so excited about a new video, just caught up on your blog the other day and was a already expecting no video for some more time, even ended up joining the discord instead haha even I have no need for a LumenPnP (yet).
Exciting updates! I love your editing.
It's always nice to have a new video notification from you. Thanks for keeping us updated!
Please dont put the stepper drivers onto the board, make them easy to replace, if one burnt out, you can just bye a ney stik, and not the hole MB. please.
I agree. If space was the issue, low profile connectors exist
Your enthusiasm is contagious 🙌
Those pours on the stepper drivers look so clean - very nice low induction connections are definitely going to make those things last longer than most
The close up of the solder paste @3:00 brings the same pleasure as watching fluid motion videos of color mixing.
You guys may have a reason for this, but I think you'll want to move the pneumatics out from under the mobo. It's always best to avoid parts behind parts, because it means every time to need to get to the thing on the bottom, you add risk to everything on top.
Great work! On the board! I've just gotten back to making boards for some of my stuff, and hearing your lessons, and some from these comments, has be fired up to make my nect designs better!
definitely looking forward to the certification content, and also someday having a Lumen!
a mild concern i have is the stepper divers, valves and pump motors heating up the inside of the control box too much
You seem like somebody I need to talk to in regards to an idea I have. Absolutely doable.
It is a different mechanism for Cartesian control.
There is only rotary motion!
If you're milling, 3D printing, etc. It is all done on the inside of the motors that are stacked in the same axis over top of each other.
So if your build volume or workable volume is 3 feet in diameter, your motor would be slightly larger than 3 feet in diameter. Think about the torque applications on that.
And it will have absolutely zero backlash with easy capacity to achieve submicron precision.
Submicron precision to the point you could turn this into a laser lithography machine.
So nice to see how the LumenPnP progress!
The drag chain does not need to start until half of the travel. You will save a few chain links. Be careful about the chain bend radius. Respect the manufacturer recommendation for peak performance and look. Finally, you might want to support the bottom part of the chain in a tray. Adds a lots of stiffness to the system.
Oh, I love the new enclosure for it! That's awesome!
Dude, this new board look so clean, love it! Amazing job!!!
That's look awesome!, you should check the temperature of that box, you are enclosing many things together without a fan or holes for air to extract the heat!
The best!
Watch out for direct sunlight heat. Currently doing the same thing with one of my products. (One VERY big spicey FreeCAD body!) One thing that I found when testing was higher than expected temperatures with direct sunlight on hot days. I used PETG, that held up fine but internal components got up to 80c. Although your product is for indoors, someone could easily have it next to a window with direct sunlight on a black box full of electronics.
Aren't those pumps too electrically noisy to sit in such close proximity to your electronics?
Short answer: No.
Looking good. Hoping to get one later this year!
Nice work! That's a really tight design!
So good. I was setting up a new job today, and yeah that dual-use staging plate is a little awkward to work around. Great work, love to see it!
glad to see you back. ive watched em all. interesting fella
AWESOME WORK! Please do a course on how you did this all! I would happily pay for this!
This looks amazing. I've been thinking about a single board solution with SMD connectors for this for a while now. The only times I've had problems with SMD connectors is when someone was being a brute with them. They work well, people just need to stop pulling them without pressing the the release latch!
The only thing I'd add is a USB hub chip, so you can connect the machine to a PC with a single cable, without having to have an external, dangling USB hub. Since not everyone will want this, it can be an optional second enclosure that mounts next to the main one. Or the enclosure could be enlarged and the USB hub can be an optional board.
8:02 Troubleshooting in a nutshell. Try all sorts of things then you do some simple check as a dumb last ditch attempt and that does it!
I would use SMD barrel jack connectors (Yes, they exist) and a USB type C connector in order to make it fully SMD
3:22 **Dear LORD what is happening in there?!?**
(Better not swab the motherboard for those made by krusty burger…)
Great Job !
Could you all make a video about how you use FreeCAD to make an assembly that complex? All the tutorials I've seen are usually only for a single part.
Always love your videos. What design software did you use for the enclosure? I didn’t recognize it but it looks pretty fun. Would love to see your ECAD design process sometime.
FreeCAD! it's an awesome tool, and getting better every day. we use KiCAD for our circuit board designs!
Big fan stephen! keep ip the good work!
Great machine i love it.
Can you tell me which solder paste do you use?
I like the start music
heres some goals to acheive for later on if you really want to succeed in as wide of a set of "markets" as possible
1. price
2. simplicity
3. ease-of-use (or plug-n-play)
4. increase the capability to run things "manually" to let the machine "learn" or to do things that the machine is not currently capable of
5. increase the capability to run different tools, so you can upgrade your machine, or use cheaper machines that you upgrade later
so if you want people to get their hands on it, go for aluminum extrusions and basic rails/wheels
if you want to go for industrial, upgrade the strength of the parts, which inevitably increases the price
for a business, 2k is basically nothing
for an individual 2k is a very steep price for something they arent going to be using 24/7 (you could do an "individual board" variant that does things one component at a time, and uses cheaper parts that just get the job done and nothing more if you want to go for these people)
I love the podcast.
Stephen... I LOVE your pnp. I was just about to purchase one, but would like to wait unit this next version is out. Do you have a sense of when your new version will be ready?
Any thoughts on touchscreen monitor/control screen in the future built into the board? Similar to the Duet Paneldue ?
Would adding some tented vias at the corners mounting pads of the connector (not underneath so that way you don't have to deal entirely with via-in-pad costs) further help in preventing pads from ripping? Akin to tent stakes just for the mounting copper pads?
Great video, but how are you handling heat from the PCB and pumps. I didn't see any heat sinks or fans?
Congrats on your success due to hard work and natural ability.
A 90 degree connector on those pressure sensors will reduce the strain of the hoses being looped toward the case.
Nice enclosure design. Any issue with the pump's magnetic fields being in proximity to the board?
Hmm is it possible to add a dispenser for solder paste? And maybe even a heatgun?
very good, congratulations. How do I get this card? Or can I use the firmware on another board?
Do through-plated vias under/near SMT connectors help with strength maybe?
What size drag chain are you using?
Kuddos on the new board! But let me tell you something,
You are manufacturing company buy a decent thermal camera to check for hot spots. İt's a must for you. When you make 50pcs a day it will save you time.
I recently viewed your first video and am intrigued by the small grey object attached to your headphones. Could you kindly provide me with information about its purpose and functionality?
One question regarding the Luma, all videos I see are the machine operating quite slow, would It be posible to make a video exploring the speed limits?
Do you still maintain support for the original pnp boards?
nice nice excelent !!
Has P&P-machine and still hand populates smd-board :P
Any resources on how to create a website and access device uart? And can this website be hosted on github
I am not sure how much heat all those components in the sealed box generate, but some slits to allow for better convection cooling might be a good idea? :)
true! we're also adding an extra port for a fan in case active cooling is necessary!
@@stephen_hawes Fan? Change the vacuum pump for a venturi vacuum generator, and use the excess air to cool the components. ;-) Compressor far away, less noise, yada yada, yada...
@@stephen_hawes You'll probably want to go with modelling the enclosure to accept something like a Noctua NF-A4x10 (If you move the pumps toward the middle a bit, the fan can go into the side of the enclosure where power and USB come in, so it can directly cool both pumps immediately and then the underside of the entire PCB), and adding a 4-pin motherboard header for it. If you want to keep using JST-PH, you could include a wire harness with JST-PH male on one side (to plug into the PCB) and a 4-pin fan header on the other side (much like the Low Noise Adapter that also comes with the fan). If the motherboard doesn't have any temperature sensing capability, you can get away with a 3-pin header and people can use the NF-A4x10 FLX. Otherwise you will probably want the firmware to control the fan speed, so go with a 4-pin header and people can use the NF-A4x10 PWM. Your board will need a 12V rail.
@@stephen_hawes Hey I just found out there's a 24V version of the Noctua NF-A4x10. Even better.
I'm curious but why not using USB C, seems more adapted for this application ?
What about the heat generated in that box?
Aha! *YOUR* the one that's been buying up all the JST connectors!
FreeCAD? Bravo!
3:03 Fuse holder UNF
Jst gh connector would be a better choice I think maybe, they have a retaining clip
How do you design wire harnesses?
I would love to see a Video about it
Can you do a video showing how to assemble a PCB starting from a blank board to a fully assembled board? Can you include the steps prior to placing components (stencil, cleaning, etc.) and after placing components (soldering, cleaning, etc.). I think I am ready to buy a LumenPnP, and want to hit the ground running.
we have a blog post covering exactly that!: www.opulo.io/blogs/how-to/setting-up-a-mid-scale-smt-line
@@stephen_hawes fyi: link to "setting-up-a-mid-scale-smt-line" returns 404 Page Not Found
What CAD Software are u guys using?
How much did the board's cost from PCBWay?
Glad to see you back, creating again.
Was wondering if you forgot that’s why some of us back your progress.
Do you have a link to the pcb holder you use at 3:53?
It's a Hakko Omnivise.
It’s gonna get HOT in that box. Please investigate.
Strange that you'd move to integrated stepper drivers instead of socketed ones, if a driver blows (known to happen, at least in the 3D printing space) a socketed driver would let it be individually replaced instead of swapping the whole board or doing a messy solder repair. In the 3D printing sphere, socketed drivers are seen in the higher end boards.
Do all the components you're shoving into that side box just not generate heat, or what? Why no ventilation and such tight compactness?
Exciting . Sell an upgrade kit for existing models
I don't really know about uses 360. But the mouse does look pretty cool. Does this count as a comment, even though I'm not from Germany.. I'm with in the EU ;)
If you enclose the motor drivers in the box, aren't you worried about overheating the drivers?
Unless they're running it hard its not an issue - 3d printer guy
I thought the motherboard used so many through-hole components because the person building it likely wouldn't have a Lumen-PnP yet?
They also sell machines ready to assemble. In that case the people building it is the people selling it; i.e. Stephen and his employees.
Hey Stephen, what is the best place to contact you?
I have project, totally unrelated to this one but way to close to your smart watch one.
It is not a smartwatch though.
I am not a technical person, I am a designer and have no idea where to begin, so just wanted some direction from you.
Save your fingers, use a thermal cam !
+1 a thermal cam is quite useful for testing PCB designs. I've also used it for identifying shorts on boards - e.g. when I swapped the decoupling cap and small value resistor when manually populating a board. I could easily see that the resistor was hot, so I knew where to look for trouble.
Imma need you to create a open source 3d printed robot arm paweese haha
something u can do perhaps if you want the sm connectors to be even stronger is also glueing them down perhaps, i dont know how much more strengh it gives but desoldering glued on components makes me feel like a surprising ammount
not really got expirience with or aorund it so you mby stupid suggestion
Use usb-C connector and you'd get rid of 4 through hole connectors
Oh, for your drivers, if they dont have local thermistors, there are some really nice 4 pad i2c thermal sensors on mouser right now that you could try reverse mount soldering. Theyre bga, so they should stick during main side reflow. Then you could do temperature monitoring and cooling using a small fan for the whole case
stephen hawes, the high-school dropout
High school is for suckers.
built on drivers are not a good thing sorry but that's the truth