3 Tips to Resaw Like a Pro, S2-E24
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- In this episode Bob takes the mystery out of resawing long wide planks. Three easy tips are presented along with the basics of bandsaw setup. A bonus tip is shared showing how to recoil heavy blades that works on all sizes of bandsaw blades.
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This was excellent and I would think a great assist to someone getting ready to purchase a band saw, what size, throat, HP, max blade width, etc.
Dear Mr. Emser, Dear Bob,
Greetings from the Netherlands, hoping you and your loved ones are all healthy and well. I discovered your channel a few days ago as we are watching sailing videos on CZcams. My wife and I are interested in picking up sailing with the kids. I turned 50 this year and your videos take me back when my father and I made radio controlled aircraft when I was younger. Now I’m watching them with my own son and daughter and getting inspired to do projects of our own.
Your videos are truly fun and educational to watch and it is great to see how you are improving your videography skills as well as you go along. Impressive. I particularly enjoy your tool making videos as well, your tools are all a piece of art in themselves.
As an aviation brat myself, I can truly admire the esthetic of your art pieces. Liked all your videos and subscribed.
Take care and looking forward to your next videos.
William
Hi( roly ),when I left school at 15 ...60years ago I worked in a sawmill trailing out on a bandsaw..I learnt more from your video than I ever did then...live and learn proves true. thank you.
You’ll learn more from the master of bandsaws …
Alex Snodgrass .
Great Safety Tips, Bob! Thanks for sharing!
Bob, it looks like we have the same band saw. I've done a lot of resawing in the 20+ years I've owned mine. I use the Resaw King blade and find it better than other blades I've tried.
I'd like to offer some suggestions - First is you don't need that curved fence. All you need is a sharp blade and to set the tension guide past the numbers on the saw. I tighten my 3/4" wide Resaw King to 1-1/4" or more on the saw tension guide. Second is to use a marking gauge to score the feed end and the top of the board you are resawing. The feed end score will help to start the cut (and let you if you're square) and the top score will let you know if the blade is straying. A tall fence helps, too, in keeping fence pressure even for wide boards. One other thing, set the back blade guide so it pushes the blade a bit forward. I think you'll like the results. Happy resawing!
thanks for clearing up a few things here, very simple explanations for tricky procedures.
Old wood worker still learning! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you that was a great video
Like each episode I learn something new.
Thanks for posting this video. I am going to adopt two important tips you have given to me here; Getting the table properly squared up to the blade and the little resaw guide to help me cut thin strips prior to steam bending.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Excellent video, one of the best I've ever seen!
Great tips on resawing planks Bob! Congratulations on surpassing 50K subscribers. Keep it going! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks David
Love the bonus tip! I need to practice like I made my wife practice folding up her pop-up camping outhouse...don't want to be a hypocrite, lol. Maybe even buy some designated blade twisting gloves, then I'll have no more excuses to putting my blades away.
Thank you Bob for the resew tips. Glad I stayed up late and caught this video early. I have struggled with recoiling my band saw blades especially on my saw mill and the bonus tip was tremendously helpful. Thank you so much for this video. Take care, stay safe and stay well.
Bob, thanks for your instructions! I am in the process of purchasing a Jet 14" bandsaw and although I've done a lot of resawing on my 10 inch bandsaw, you have shown me much more!
Just discovered this channel over the weekend and loving it! I didn’t hear you mention it when you were discussing blade guides, but I think it’s an important adjustment item to mention. That’s being sure that your blade guides are adjusted so that the leading edge of them are at the back, or bottom, of the gullet. I’ve known of several people, myself included, that ruined blades by unknowingly allowing the blade guides to sandwich the entire blade, teeth and all, which flattened the set of the teeth. Full disclosure, I’ve never done any resawing because I’ve never had a bandsaw big enough, and I’m not sure if a re-saw blade has any set to it or not, so my comments might be a moot point. But even if they don’t have a set, I don’t think you want teeth hitting bearing steel. Thanks for an excellent channel, and happy new year!
Absolutely educational
nice tip about coiling the blade
Thanks Bob. That was actually quite timely for me personally. Good stuff!!
Another great video, I like your tip about setting the tracking of the blade on the wheels.
thanks for sharing 👌👌👌👌👌
Excellent video both in content and presentation style-thanks.
Excellent as always. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the tips Bob.
Very well explained, thanks!
Excellent lesson!
Nice and snappy. Thanks for the tips
Great video, thank you. :)
Glad you liked it!
Love that bonus tip Bob!
Simple and precise! Thank you sir.
Thanks Bill!
Nice demonstration. Thanks.
Great video. I always had trouble resawing on the bandsaw and will follow your advice. BTW, the problem is not so much coiling a bandsaw blade. The problem is UNcoiling the blade without losing your nose as the blade springs open. Thank you.
Congrats by following Alex Snodgrass teachings. Well explained video and appreciate your thoughts.
Excellent video sir.
Thank you. Now need to find that resaw guide here in Europe...cheers...rr Normandy, France
Really, really interesting! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there! 🖖😊
Great info, thanks!
Bob, I love your vids. I enjoyed the Total Boat skiff building series too. Glad to have found yours. I have taken two courses at the WB School - Lofting and Blacksmithing and look forward to getting back to Brooklin. You are a wonderful craftsman and teacher. I look forward to watching the rest of the series. I really enjoyed your shop tour, the toolmaking and lead casting vids.
Thanks Walter, sad that the school had to close the season. Hopefully be back in full swing next year.
Cheers and thanks for watching!
Bob
Thanks,Bob.
this was very helpful
Good video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the tips Bob. I have been enjoying the boat build videos. Just a tip on resaw blades, Highland woodworking carries a blade called the wood altogether works amazingly smooth both in feed and finish. You won't get the jerky feed going into the blade.
Rich, thanks for the suggestion. The blade I was using in the video is an Olson Blade. Ordered online and have not been crazy about it. Sent the first one back, the replacement was not much better. So I used it as sending back would most likely have the same result and I needed it then. It cuts fine, just loud when the weld goes through the wood. Thanks again for the suggestion!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding evidently they do not peen their welds very well, if at all. Try a different source next time. The weld is likely rubbing in the kerf if it is making yhe noise you speak of, or the ends are not true to each other at yhe weld.
Those tips are golden and will help anyone with the toughest way to cut a board. Blade speed is also important because softwood cuts faster than hardwood. That Jet seem to be well made for resawing. How big of a motor did you get. I know it 230 volt.
Nice tips! I have that same band saw. Love it
How much does that saw cost? Thank you.
@@glyshorts9107 I got mine used for 650.00. New depends on the motor. I say expect at least $1300
Great video. I agree with the location of the blade on a curved tyre, as this is how mine is set up and works perfectly. But, what would you suggest for the flat tyres, as they seem to be very common? Thanks in advance.
I fully respect your information and demonstration. Thanks for that, but I still have some comments. When resawing planks I have major problems with drift and speed. In terms of speed, it is painfully slow. This can possibly be improved by using a saw blade with widia teeth. The drift can be caused by too much pressure being applied and because the guide is not parallel to the saw blade. I don't want to steer the board to prevent drift. The saw should run straight on its own.
Excelyvideo. Do you use carbide blades for resawing?
As a furniture maker I always use a thin bladed circular saw. Just a matter of alignment, and it helps keeping it strait. Only reason to use a band saw are the curved cuts. It saves material, but probably doesn't matter when it basically a hobby, not the job.
Yeah, running the board through the tablesaw first, flipping it to kerf the other edge, will take a load of work off of the bandsaw, and greatly reduce drift. I believe we are talking about boards too wide to resaw on the average home-owner's table saw.
@@thomasarussellsr with a 150mm diameter blade all it takes are two cuts. Just split it half way, turn over and complete it. My max thin blade diameter is 250mm, that goes a long for furniture stock and the cedar stock he is using. Even if he is dividing in three sections, left, right and centre.
Great info, but if you wanted an accurate and consistent width in the boards you’re cutting, wouldn’t you want to put two guides on the fence to ensure uniform thickness?
Great content! Looks like you are living the dream! Awesome. Have you heard of the “Little Ripper”? Eliminates drift and allows more yield from material. Also helps control long material with tracks for 7’ to 8’ lengths. Can resawing logs this way also.
It is made by Stockroom Supply, a Canadian company. They are awesome guys!
Yes I have. Great for irregular lumber. Never found the need for one as my buddy has a saw mill. Once I found Alex Snodgrass's videos on setting up the saw properly I've never had a drift problem.
Thanks for watching and your comment.
Cheers,
Bob
Neat and methodic. You would have an even better result in adjusting your side guides (at 5.50) parallel to the blade which are not.
I own the same machine and the slight slack in the sideguide rig bothers me for a while. Doing so, you can adjust your sideguides as close as 0.15 millimeter to the blade without them turning which greatly improve the précision of the cut.
Thanks for your interesting videos.
Excellent tutorial. One question: the sawed face of the board won't became more true if you pull instead of push against the saw?
Fernando Fert should not make a difference. One would have more control and be able to see the cut easier by pushing. The only mistakes I’ve ever made is when I’ve pulled near the end of the cut.
Thanks for watching!
Bob, I love your channel. Your attention to detail is incredible. If you don't mind I would like to mention another channel, The Video Rambler, the Teo is building a Goat Island Sailing Skiff where he is very similar in attention to detail to you but on a low tech scale. Keep bringing the content, I wait every week for a new episode
i'm from brazil, i still understand little english but i watched the 24 episodes in 2 days, thank you very much for sharing your construction. Does the boat already have a name?
No name yet
Obrigada
Great videos! Tracking the blade with the gullets in the center of the wheel may cause the teeth to chew up the tire. Shouldn't you joint the edge of the board and one face, before you plane and resaw? Taking the trouble to make the table perpendicular to the blade is meaningless if the board doesn't have a perpendicular edge and face to register on the table and resaw guide.
Hey Bob - quick question, it doesn't look like you bother to mark the cut with a pencil line, but you trust to your fence and your eye? Do you find a line distracting in that it sometimes makes you over correct?
I don’t draw a line. I do think it would be distracting as it’s important to watch the board against the guide. It would be like drawing a line to cut to rip on a table saw. Trust the guide and setup.
Thanks!
Thanks Bob. Do you put the gullet over the crown on all blades, even when not re-sawing?
Sure do it works great reducing drift.
If you need a more indepth "class", Alex Snodgrass has a tutorial video on CZcams.
would it make sense to have a second vertical blue guide so that one does not need to track the cut all the time (only keep the plank flat between the two vertical guides)?
That is an acceptable idea. What you’re suggesting is a feather board. A bit different but easier to install and use.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding actually, he is not suggesting a feather-board. He was asking if a second vertical guide like the blue one you are using (I assume on the opposing side) would be advantageous.
I think a featherboard would be better than another vertical guide, the board thickness is not always uniform and this would accommodate variable thickness.
Great video , I have the JWBS-18X . I want to buy a blade because only come with one blade is 1/4 but I want a 1/2 or 3/4 . Where do you get your blades ? Thank you in advance.
The last blade a purchased was a Wood Slicer sold by www.highlandwoodworking.com I currently have a 3/4" blade on my saw.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thank you for reply. They have the right length for my bandsaw can wait to resaw a piece of parota . Cheers
That was a very handy vid, full of sound advice. I bet you have no trouble folding those pop up tents either, lol. I doubt I will ever get a band saw because the ones I could afford are no where near good, or big enough to do the jobs I would need one for; plus I don't have the room. I do know where I can get stuff done though, which is the next best thing. Thank you for sharing.
Not sure of the size and power you need, but my wife ordered mine online for under $500.US.
It is a Wen 14" with blade capacity from 1/8" to 1", depth of cut of 14" and height of about 8" or 9". (I haven't had the oppurtunity to re-saw anything wider than 6 1/2" yet, but had some adjustment left in the height of the cut.
@@thomasarussellsr Hi Thomas, thanks for the heads up, but here in the UK the choice is a bit limited and the prices are considerably higher.
I don't have difficulty coiling my blades. My problem is uncoiling them. Thank you for sharing.
Make sure the area is clear, then toss them away from yourself as if trying to toss a ring to back-spin back toward you. That is the method my grandpa showed me. However, if you mark the foot and hand positions from coiling it up, then just reverse the process. (Slowly and carefully)
What HP is your saw?
Hi Joe,
It's 1 1/2 HP.
Now let’s see you uncoil the blade
What type of JET machine is that ? and is is single phase or 3 phase feeded ? Thanks.
It’s an 18” and is single phase. If you’d like the model number, I can look and let you know.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Yes, If you would like to do that, then I can check the machine. I'm curious. I'm planning to buy a bandsaw machine only for doing resawing on single phase. Thank you :)
My bandsaw is an 18”Jet model JWBS-18
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you for checking. :)
never use oak, white or red, never steam wood.
You? Or anyone?
It is unclear whether you are saying you never use it, or you are suggesting that others should never use it.
Thanks for the clarification, in advance.