Quick FYI… “IC”stands for Illinois capacitor. They make the best capacitors around these days. You can check them out online, I find them to be as good as anything nichicon or other quality makers ever produced. Mr. Carlson over at “Mr. Carlson’s lab” has a very high opinion of them also. Thanks for the teardown and review! I’ve always been a big fan of the masstech brand. And I believe this is made by the same people.
Just for the record most people don't have a high opinion of Illinois caps. They are not known for longevity,. I'm not sure why Mr. Carlson would say otherwise, I haven't watched, but they are known as a second tier cap.
Hi there. I have one like this and what happened is that someone connected a drill battery in reverse and make a big loud bang. It instantly got into Cc mode because the reverse protection diode was shorted and the two small coupling caps on the small board with posts evaporated. Now, after replacing the diode the supply does not read current anymore and the fan does not start te spin faster after 1A. I replaced the four ic tha TL ones on your board mine are different but they are op amps. But still nothing. Any idea on what to check or do? Or if you have any schematic for it? Thanks
The only modification I made on mine was I replaced the red and black wires running from the power board with 14 gauge silicone because I was noticing the original 18 gauge wires we’re getting a little warm under load other than that mines been functioning flawlessly .
Anybody know the value of C4 on the binding post board. I vaporized the one on mine by accidentally sending 120VAC to it along with the 1N5402 diode (which shorted but did not vaporize) right below to it. I've got it working again, but would like to know the correct value for that cap. FWIW, i used same value as C5, but that was just a guess. Thx!
My supply just went, display works however no voltage output. I noticed the AC plug has two spare fuses however I can find no place to use them. Any idea why I have no voltage output. Thanks by the way I have same model as the one you talked about
Since you've had a couple of years to use this PS, what do you think? I use one and the UI drives me a little nut's. But cant really complain for the price. Nice video BTW, very detailed and thorough.
Thanks. Im just getting into tinkering with electronics and it would either be buy something used that I can afford but have no idea how it was taken care of, or buy something like this, no frills but will put out the current/amps at a constant predictable way. Do you think the heatsink is left loose like that to consider expansion, or is it just shoddy assembly?
Hello. Do you think that this power supply could be modified to provide also regulated AC voltage? Maybe by soldering some wires in front of bridge rectifier? Thanks.
No, at best you could get AC volt steps from the different transformer taps. There would be no regulation of any kind what so ever. Regulating AC is a completely different animal.
Hi, thanks for this video! Have you ever tested signal quality (with an oscilloscope)? For example noise, voltage peaks at start-up, peaks during regulation, etc. ?
Sorry to dig up an older video but I'm planning on inserting a beefy switch between the positive output jack and the power supply so I can turn the output on and off without turning the unit on and off. Is there any reason that would cause a problem with the other electronics?
As long as you are in front of the sense lines then everything is ok. To clarify, if the switch is outside the supply then everything is ok. If you plan to put the switch inside the supply then you must take care that the sense lines are not disconnected by the switch.
@@eapbg Thanks for the reply! So are the sense lines on the board the jacks are connected to? I was hoping I could just switch the red wire coming from the power board to toggle power without turning the unit off.
@@justovision That's what it looks like. If you look at the video at 14:10 there is a 4 wire connector on that board. Those are most likely the sense lines.
Woo-hoo! An actual thumbs-up review. Great! Thx! :*) So how's it holding up? Anything a buyer should look for, specs. , etc.? Finally, an Amazon Seller (Tekpower TP3005P) is offering an upgrade to TP3005D, HY3005, Mastech version. And Customer Reviews are worth reading. Thx again! :*)
It's holding up great. Love the supply. When I was looking for one, I was looking for the user interface. There are lots of 30V 5A supplies and the user interface is what seperates them.
This type of lab supply has two modes, constant voltage, and constant current. When I short the leads together, the supply moves from constant voltage mode to constant current mode. When in constant current mode the supply will regulate to the preset current.
since when is soldered instead of using a connector not removable? yeah to joe average its broken if you cut or rip it but for most of your audiance desoldering is trivial or simply clipping the wires and adding a connector between. if they had coated it in 2 inches of hot melt id go a bit easier on saying non removable but its just a really poor choice for your intended audience.
The spirit of the comment was that the manufacture meant to put a connector there. There was a clear mismatch it parts. The board had a connector and the transformer did not. If the product was made as designed it would be easily disconnected. You are correct that some solder would not stop us from removing the transformer. The problems is that with that kind of outlook even the TQFP Pic micro controller on board is removable.
Owning an Anet A8 3D-Printer with this connector on its heatbed, i know why they bodged it that way. I did exactly that after the connector went sunburst while printing petg. This seems to be a "common" problem... So I think it's an afterthough, because they found out that this type of shenzen common type one lifetime supply manufacured standard connector go go up in flames and totally ruin the party...
Sad, it has come down to this. We need an engineer to tell us the power supply from China we are interested in, will not blow up in our face. Buyer protection, return policies, customer support are things of the past.
Quick FYI… “IC”stands for Illinois capacitor. They make the best capacitors around these days. You can check them out online, I find them to be as good as anything nichicon or other quality makers ever produced. Mr. Carlson over at “Mr. Carlson’s lab” has a very high opinion of them also. Thanks for the teardown and review! I’ve always been a big fan of the masstech brand. And I believe this is made by the same people.
Thank you for the info.
Just for the record most people don't have a high opinion of Illinois caps. They are not known for longevity,. I'm not sure why Mr. Carlson would say otherwise, I haven't watched, but they are known as a second tier cap.
Excellent video, thank you so much.
No problem.
Hi there. I have one like this and what happened is that someone connected a drill battery in reverse and make a big loud bang. It instantly got into Cc mode because the reverse protection diode was shorted and the two small coupling caps on the small board with posts evaporated. Now, after replacing the diode the supply does not read current anymore and the fan does not start te spin faster after 1A. I replaced the four ic tha TL ones on your board mine are different but they are op amps. But still nothing. Any idea on what to check or do? Or if you have any schematic for it?
Thanks
The only modification I made on mine was I replaced the red and black wires running from the power board with 14 gauge silicone because I was noticing the original 18 gauge wires we’re getting a little warm under load other than that mines been functioning flawlessly .
Anybody know the value of C4 on the binding post board. I vaporized the one on mine by accidentally sending 120VAC to it along with the 1N5402 diode (which shorted but did not vaporize) right below to it. I've got it working again, but would like to know the correct value for that cap. FWIW, i used same value as C5, but that was just a guess. Thx!
My supply just went, display works however no voltage output. I noticed the AC plug has two spare fuses however I can find no place to use them. Any idea why I have no voltage output. Thanks by the way I have same model as the one you talked about
Make sure the current is not set to zero. If the display is lit up then the AC fuse is good. Things like this typically are not fused separately.
Since you've had a couple of years to use this PS, what do you think? I use one and the UI drives me a little nut's. But cant really complain for the price. Nice video BTW, very detailed and thorough.
Funny enough, I love the UI. It works predictably and shows what the set point is. So far it's been a good supply.
So is this a good power supply for hobby electronics work?
Yes it is.
Thanks. Im just getting into tinkering with electronics and it would either be buy something used that I can afford but have no idea how it was taken care of, or buy something like this, no frills but will put out the current/amps at a constant predictable way. Do you think the heatsink is left loose like that to consider expansion, or is it just shoddy assembly?
I think just poor assembly.
Hello. Do you think that this power supply could be modified to provide also regulated AC voltage? Maybe by soldering some wires in front of bridge rectifier? Thanks.
No, at best you could get AC volt steps from the different transformer taps. There would be no regulation of any kind what so ever. Regulating AC is a completely different animal.
@@eapbg Thanks for the info.
Sold in Australia as Powertech QJ3005T. I got mine about 2 weeks ago.
How do you like it?
So far it's great. Good value for the low price. Perfect hobbyist supply.
Hi, thanks for this video!
Have you ever tested signal quality (with an oscilloscope)? For example noise, voltage peaks at start-up, peaks during regulation, etc. ?
Not on this unit. Don't have a digital scope yet, just an analog one.
eapbg I found that :
labornetzteil-test.de/labornetzgeraet-qj3005t-im-test/
That's a nice review, thank you.
@@p.g.pg38 I know this is an old comment, but I don't see that testing - it's page in German that doesn't lead to that PS that I can see.
Sorry to dig up an older video but I'm planning on inserting a beefy switch between the positive output jack and the power supply so I can turn the output on and off without turning the unit on and off. Is there any reason that would cause a problem with the other electronics?
As long as you are in front of the sense lines then everything is ok. To clarify, if the switch is outside the supply then everything is ok. If you plan to put the switch inside the supply then you must take care that the sense lines are not disconnected by the switch.
@@eapbg Thanks for the reply! So are the sense lines on the board the jacks are connected to? I was hoping I could just switch the red wire coming from the power board to toggle power without turning the unit off.
@@justovision That's what it looks like. If you look at the video at 14:10 there is a 4 wire connector on that board. Those are most likely the sense lines.
@@eapbg That's disappointing. Thanks for your advice!
Hi its 2022 how is it holding up??
Holding up well.
Woo-hoo! An actual thumbs-up review. Great! Thx! :*)
So how's it holding up?
Anything a buyer should look for, specs. , etc.?
Finally, an Amazon Seller (Tekpower TP3005P) is offering an upgrade to TP3005D, HY3005, Mastech version. And Customer Reviews are worth reading.
Thx again! :*)
It's holding up great. Love the supply. When I was looking for one, I was looking for the user interface. There are lots of 30V 5A supplies and the user interface is what seperates them.
When you short the 2 leads together what does the PSU do. Does it just shutdown to protect or make a clicking sound.
This type of lab supply has two modes, constant voltage, and constant current. When I short the leads together, the supply moves from constant voltage mode to constant current mode. When in constant current mode the supply will regulate to the preset current.
since when is soldered instead of using a connector not removable? yeah to joe average its broken if you cut or rip it but for most of your audiance desoldering is trivial or simply clipping the wires and adding a connector between. if they had coated it in 2 inches of hot melt id go a bit easier on saying non removable but its just a really poor choice for your intended audience.
The spirit of the comment was that the manufacture meant to put a connector there. There was a clear mismatch it parts. The board had a connector and the transformer did not. If the product was made as designed it would be easily disconnected. You are correct that some solder would not stop us from removing the transformer. The problems is that with that kind of outlook even the TQFP Pic micro controller on board is removable.
Owning an Anet A8 3D-Printer with this connector on its heatbed, i know why they bodged it that way. I did exactly that after the connector went sunburst while printing petg. This seems to be a "common" problem... So I think it's an afterthough, because they found out that this type of shenzen common type one lifetime supply manufacured standard connector go go up in flames and totally ruin the party...
16:22 = Its PIC16F887, not PIC16F877
Sad, it has come down to this. We need an engineer to tell us the power supply from China we are interested in, will not blow up in our face. Buyer protection, return policies, customer support are things of the past.