How to Fix the TPA3116 Turn-On Thump / Anti-Pop Circuit
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- čas přidán 23. 05. 2018
- A 2 component mod that makes all TPA3116 amps usable !
The mod was taken from 360customs.de, so thanks a lot to Christian Weidner: you're the man! (bit.ly/2HiQALm)
Parts:
• Yuan-Jing 4.1 Amplifier (my version) : bit.ly/2s8v1G5
• Yuan-Jing 4.1 Amplifier (newer version) : bit.ly/2LqprHO
• Schottky Diodes : bit.ly/2IGxse1
NOTE: this amp is by far the best tuned out of all of them, quiescent current with all 3 chips on (and the bluetooth board linearly regulated) is a very very impressive 100mA. - Věda a technologie
I have a few of these boards, all different. It seems that 2 of them have the pop and the other 3 don't. What I've noticed, the ones with a power switch, seem to works without the loud POP.
Great Fix, I was looking everywhere for a fix like this...Thanks for posting!!!!
you're more than welcome!
what kind of silicon did you add? Plain white caulk or something low acid? I need to do something on my board.
@darieee +darieee you do a video on the XH-M546 it’s the same tpa chip I have the same issue but it’s ready bad enough to blow a dsp from the inputs please help the board is different thank you
Hi there, love your videos!! I have one of these for long time, powered with a15v 2 amp power, it works just fine, but the bluetooth worked before only with a 12v power, I tried with a 24v as well, and after turn it on and off for a while, it kinda works, but just for a while. is there any way I can fix that? or is there any way I can turn on and off the bluetooth when I want to use it? Ive been using the output hooked up in my tv, but it would be nice to have the bluetooth function as well! and a Last thing, is there any way to custom these unit to receive to inputs? Best!
Essa dica funcionou muito bem aqui no meu circuito, porém tive que usar um capacitor eletrolitico de 33uf, o tempo de espera para liberar o mute esta em aproximadamente 4 segundos. o POP ao desligar, só consegui resolver utilizando uma chave 2PDT com um dos contatos ativando o MUTE ao desligar a alimentação.
friend when i put the capacitor the audio didn’t come out.
What can I do?
So according to the data sheet (page 24) you can bridged this ic for dual channel mono mode, my question is how the hell does anyone solder that??
TI actually does have a provision for eliminating this pop, its not in the reference circuit but it is in the datasheet.
Page 16 of the data sheet clearly outlines this under the section labeled "START-UP/SHUTDOWN OPERATION"
Ref : pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/457328/TI1/TPA3116D2.html
Unfortunately none of the Chinese boards have this implemented.
I guess they don't bother because it would require an additional timer based power on off circuit instead of a standard switch.
I think it would make a great Arduino project with an IR remote controlled input selector relay switch thrown in.
I do have a video with a 2 component mod that eliminates 95% of the thumps :)
Wwwaaay simpler than something arduino based
Agreed :) , Simple timer IC and/or relay based solutions are also possible that will work 100%.
I'm just saying that the chip is designed for use with modern digital circuits, Every post I can find on the subject ignores this and blames TI for bad design.
Well .. the YDA chips from Yamaha, and even the lower power TPA chips don't have this prerequisite ...
Might be unavoidable, but, until I see proof of said unavoidability - I'm staying mad at TI
Hi I have a question I have Tpa3116d2 2x80w amp and every time i plug the speaker in it just plays for one second then stops and on other output terminal just moves the speaker up and down
That sounds quite busted ... maybe share the link of the particular amp so people can avoid it
Darieee yeah well i have another question since i have a similar amp like yours its just 2x50W 100W sub it has inductors like yours and they heat up by a lot even when idle and since i am making a portable boombox it is a lot of waste of energy any help?
What exactly is the value of the diode you used? There is so many of value. Cant decide which one
Not home for a few days but .. it MUST be a Schottky diode !!!
how about tpa3118 pbtl?, i mix that with ne5532 as lpf. when i increase the volume, the amplifier shutdown automaticaly even the current not hit 1A, what should i do to fix this problem?
note: i use 6" subs 100w 4ohm dual vc, and i have tried 12-16V, when i put the speaker in the box the cone move not stable and easily shutdown
are you maybe wiring the sub coils in parallel? that'd end you up with 2ohms .. which is very steep for these amps
@@Darieee yea i parallel the coil cause i think this amps has parallel btl so can go down to 2ohm (i have put heatsink too) at first time i tried there is no problem (working as well) but a few day after that i got this problem, i have tried go to 4ohm but these amps still shutdown, what should i do?
what type schottky diode
The datasheet says of the GVDD pin "Not to be used as a supply or connected to any component other
than a 1 µF X7R ceramic decoupling capacitor and the PLIMIT and GAIN/SLV resistor dividers." I guess that's great if it's working, but it seems like Ti wouldn't leave a specific warning if they didn't mean it?
well, TI also should've thought of some way of biasing their chip which avoids shoving VCC into the speakers at startup 😳
@@Darieee This is definitely true. It's a weird design. At least the mute pin is there, there's got to be a way of triggering it without draining GVCC...
Que tipo de silicon usas
Woah! I think this over my skill level. Definitely would kill my board if I tied this, so I'll stick with the pop. I have been using a TPA3116 2.1 (Red board - very common) for 3 years and it work fine with pop. It is annoying though.
Hihi🤣😂
@@Asraful_x same problem here. im looking at a delay relay but i only seem to find DC / AC type. not DC to DC.
@@rezo786 There are only DC or AC relays. Not DC/AC or DC to DC.
@@-Tris- you are mistaken. I manage to find a DC/ AC relay. Let me know if you need further details.
@@rezo786 maybe I got something wrong here 🤔
I only know about AC or DC relays, both doesn't make sense. You can switch AC relays with DC if you need to, but not the other way.
Why does your circuit sometimes have AC and sometimes DC? How do you switch the relay? Transistor, triac, both...? What about back emf, you can't put a diode across the coil?
I'm confused 😅
My problem is speaker output not working
@darieee, Hi, I know you made this video over 2.5yrs ago but I'm having a weird problem with my board which I'm hoping you might be able to help me with.
I have the exact same board like this one (blue TPA3116 4.1) which is installed in my arcade cabinet. Of course, it makes a pop when turned on/off. I followed your procedure with a 1A Schottky diode & a 1uF tantalum capacitor. It removed the pop, but after a while all audio is lost, like it kills the output (or mutes it) completely. Turning off/on doesn't work. When I unsolder the capacitor, all is good again, but of course, the pop is back.
Any idea what's going on? Should I be using a different type of capacitor? Not sure what else it would be. Thx.
UPDATE - Long story short, I got the mod working on my board.
I found your other video czcams.com/video/s0vIM8kZx9M/video.html&t & noticed you used a 22uF electrolytic capacitor instead so gave this a go. Pulled these caps off an old Xbox motherboard & they seem to be working ok. No pop & audio is working fine.
Hey thanks ! Can I use a bipolar capacitor to do the anti-pop circuit or do i need a plarized one ?
you don't have to use a bipolar
but you can of course do it - it's a bit of a waste though :)
@@Darieee Thanks for your answer !
I have only that on my bench.. maybe i'll be able to found a capa in a trash pcb
Hey Darieee, i have a different model and the connections from the TPA3116 is quite different can i send you a picture ?
pinout of the 3116 is universal though 😎
I swear it is different :p
What happens when we use a higher uf capacitor
Like 4.7 or further?
it would stay off for longer at power-up
@@Darieee ah that's fine
@@Darieee also
My Schottky diode has a V drop of 0.85v
Will it still work or it will damage the chip
mmm, try finding a better one ...
it /should/ be /oookhay/ but ... it would be pushing it
@@Darieee can you name the exact diode which you used
Greetings. Sir, would you kindly do the same for the TPA3116D2 2x50 + 1x100 watt board please, particularly on the 100watt (the subwoofer) channel, please....
This is a very peculiar proposition
@@Darieee Just say "Wire $500 through paypal and I'll work for you" xD
Would love if amp board manufacturers would put a bit of effort into turn on/off pop, and noise floor issues. It stinks to put in a lot of work on a speaker and then have those kinds of problems letting it down. Except for Dayton Audio, I’ve quit buying boards with integrated bluetooth. I buy a separate bluetooth board and I install a ground loop isolator between. This is more cost, more complexity and more space required. I would gladly pay $5 more for a board that consistently provided clean attributes. I consider “pop” and noise to be defects. Boards with these issues should not make it past QC from any manufacturer.
yeah ... it's quite disastrous
there is however a more elegant and superior method to using a ground loop isolator: you can simply run a differential pair for each channel, and ditch the ground all together; you have to unsolder 4 (or maybe 2 if you're lucky) SMD capacitors ... which might be quite small
but the results are amazing, I'm filming a video right now where I do this on 2 amps ... and will probably be doing it going forward ... the sound is butter smooth, no hiss, no bt interference, no nothing! Also, some amps have a stupid op-amp for some stupid reason, which muddies the sound and greatly boosts the noise floor - the direct-feed differential in hack should also have you covered on that front
Has anyone tried using a simple RC time constant circuit of 1 sec to power the sdz pin after power on? The turn on time of this chip is 10ms......1s RC should be great I guess.
It would turn on the chip 1s after power on.
A 100k resistor and a 2.2uF capacitor should give a time of 700ms
Tipe opo iki brooo
Hi. How big is capacitor voltage? Thanks
30 to 35v should be adequate
Can I use polar capacitor?
sure, just be sure to wire it the right way around
I used polar capacitor and it did not work
Change the value cap to 4.7 uf
that should reduce the thump even further, huh ?
wouldn't call this implementation very very good, you should check out the Gmarsh Wiener for a very very good one, you should be able to spot a few differences visually right away. He even uses an MCU for startup to eliminate the pop
could you link to that video?
still .. anything deemed superior costing an entire microcontroller with code running on it is a complicated argument to win .. any and everything with a micro is better, except when that thing crashes or starts to lose its mind in 20 years
@@Darieee i'm not sure there's a video, there is a thread on the diyaudio forum though, some hi end audiophile freaks power their gmarsh wieners with proper linear PSUs and then list their $2000 amps on ebay the next day, it's extremely impressive with expensive high sensitivity accoustics if properly implemented (good pcb layout and components + clean power basically)
Video starts at 2:35.
For anyone needs help replace int the chips, please let me know. I can do it for you at low cost
YES I FACE THIS PROBLEM ( I AM FROM BANGLADESH ) I HAVE THIS BOARD
I AM FROM AFRICA AND I DON'T BECAUSE I PUT A RELAY WITH A TIME DELAY ON THE SPEAKER OUTPUTS. VERY EASY TO DO!
I AM FROM AFRICA AND I DON'T BECAUSE I PUT A RELAY WITH A TIME DELAY ON THE SPEAKER OUTPUTS. VERY EASY TO DO!
@@andrewallen9993 what type relay send link ?
@@kuchbhi9758 Dpst ( double pole single throw) use two with a resistor/capacitor network to delay switch on for each two output channels
@@kuchbhi9758 www.amazon.com/Speaker-Protection-Circuit-Supply-UnAssembled/dp/B00QVM4TX0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549088281&sr=8-5&keywords=Speaker+turn+on+delay for example change the relay to one with more poles, you just will be unable to mount it on the PCB. Good luck with your soldering :)