Ask Lattice Ep. 2: (Part 1) Magnus Midtbø talks about Jujimufu and one-finger pull-ups!
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Magnus Midtbø, Jujimufu and one finger pull-ups!!
In this episode of Ask Lattice, we're joined by special guest and Norwegian climbing superstar Magnus Midtbø. He talks to Lattice Training founder, Tom Randall, about working with Jujimufu and they even tackle the tricky subject of one finger pull-ups.
This interview was really long so we've split it into several videos. If you like this one, make sure you subscribe to get notified when we upload the others.
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Magnus is our kindest and best guest ever!!!
god dammit juji get out to norway need some more content
@@ajk3892 Juji should go check out the little town for powerlifters czcams.com/video/k4TJkPLN_g8/video.html
He says the same about you @Jujimufu!
The collaborations you’ve done with Magnus and Martins have been excellent. Please do some more soon.
Your videos with magnus were about the best I've ever seen. You are both such likable persons and humble too. Eager to try things. I could watch you guys doing almost anything, there's always some twist that makes it special
I'm a simple man. I see Magnus' name in the title, and I click and watch. I'm never disappointed.
Magnus seems like a legitimately nice guy, and genuine too. I find it super refreshing seeing pro climbers, who have every reason to have an ego, be the complete opposite of a cocky athlete. Climbing breeds some awesome people.
eventhough i agree, the amount of messages under videos im seeing lately confirming him being a good human being is getting out of hand lol
@@Del1Dub Yea, and definitely some of them are a little brown nose-y - and not that my comment isn't either. However, I mean it sincerely, and I don't just mean him, a lot of pro climbers seem to have a similar temperament. If I had to draw a conclusion, maybe it is because it takes a certain degree of intelligence to problem solve and coupled with the fact that climbing is 95% failing. Maybe that humbles people, either way, my experience with the climbing community has been super positive. I guess we will see what happens with that as the sport grows in popularity... hopefully it continues to attract like-minded people.
@@SendStory Yeah, I think the fact that even someone like Adam Ondra spends a lot of his time failing and really struggling to get the climbs he does helps to keep them all humble and friendly. I'm sure there are some assholes out there but all my climbing friends are very chill, and it seems like most pro climbers are pretty nice people as well.
The thing Magnus is looking for is a "loading pin"
Brilliant! Time to go shopping :)
@@LatticeTraining Just make sure to get the right one for the plates you (or anyone else reading this) have! There's two options dependent on whether you use Olympic or standard weight plates
Also grip genie is selling them online now
@@Duckers_ yeah too late (for my buying decisions), I bought one of those olympic pins. So offcourse I had to start buying olympic weigths..
but the olympic weight with grips seems to be quite usefull at least.
@@LatticeTraining a threaded pipe and a flange is a cheaper solution, for those DIY inclined ;)
that is a very misleading cover picture, guys :DD Great video, guys, thank you
0:10 is it just me or does Magnus look like he thinking "I wonder who this special guest is" ?
hahahahaa
Great video :) Magnus seems like such a cool guy, was good to see you put him through the paces
The best interview of lattice.
Lattice one of the best videos I've watched recently.
thanks Ryan. More to come.
Cool video! Glad to see Lattice is on CZcams!
Jujimufu and Tom are the dudes!
Magnus is the boi!
Very nice interview, thank you guys !
You wrote his last name wrong. Midtbø not Mitbø.
Just saying
The person in charge of name writing has been identified and severely reprimanded!
@@LatticeTraining Blind crack climbing? :D
loved this video :D
Very glad! We've just uploaded the second part :)
what a great idea to be the first athlete for there new brand magnus that would fit great
@ 8 mins talking about a failure in a final that pushed him to train that finger pocket skill, Tom you should watch the finals of the IFSC boulder world cup, lovely crack climb as the final boulder, the Japanese guys failed miserably, Ondra steps out and was like, oh a crack climb sweet I got this, and made it look like a warm up ;)
Interview started off tough, as I always think Magnus seems ‘guarded’ a lot of the time. But he loosened up some towards the end and was able to supply more interesting info in a more relaxed way. It must be difficult to kind of be a ‘brand’ in how you need to earn a living, which would make anybody pause. I’d say ‘be yourself’ even if it sometimes shows a super competitive side, most of us have that in us and we can relate to it all. Your climbing is incredible, your intent & effort on good content is appreciated, so loosen up, relax and be yourself. It will be more fun for you and more real & fun for us.
Magnus was so great during the interview and the next few parts he relaxes even more. Stay tuned for the next parts
I think it's partly cultural with him coming from Norway.
Thanks for the great videos guys!
One question, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the importance of flexibility for climbing? I'm currently rehabbing a shoulder injury and training towards the middle and front splits to keep myself busy (more so to trick myself into thinking I'm still training for climbing so I don't get demotivated) and I'm curious if there are particular stretches and benchmarks you guys look for in this area.
eko I know I’m not them, but some good stretches are warrior 1 pose, basically a really elongated lunge that you pulsate while have your arms above your head. Then lean back on your back leg from the lunge and straighten out your front leg, and with a straight back, push your chest towards your thigh. Lean back into first stretch position and grab your back leg by the ankle and lean forward. Then stand up in a forward leg stance and straight back; chest to thigh. Repeat both sides a couple of times and hold each about 15 seconds
Hip flexibility is very important and general lower body flexibility (like splits) is often beneficial. One benchmark imo. is to be able to "frog" against the wall so that your hip and chest is in contact with the wall while your left foot and knee touch the wall facing to your left and your right foot and knee touch the wall facing to your right. It should also be said that it's not enough to just be flexible enough to be in a position, but you also need to be able to apply a lot of pressure through your legs while doing the splits for example.
Check out Ondra and Hayes - they find many more rest positions due to their (hip) flexibility.
We think flexibility plays a large role in movement economy on slightly overhanging to slab terrain. The steeper the wall gets the less it plays a role with the exception of a few specific moves (drop knees etc).
Great video! Ik can't wait for the next episode.
I do have a question ( totally unrelated to this video ): When I do anaerobic alactic training I don't feel that burning pump in my forearms. My grip does however slowly start to fade. Am I doing something wrong of is this completely normal?
So, where does one load the sling for one finger pullup training? First Pad, second pad, in between?
I made a loading pin with pipe fittings from the hardware store. Way cheaper than buying one!
Not sure what you spent building it, but i purchased a very nice one for only 15 dollars.
Ask lattice: Why 20mm for max hangs, testing, etc.? Thanks!!
5:40 - it wasn't Dani, it was Fred Nicole! :D
You may have covered this elsewhere, but: there must at times be discrepancies between your grade assessment of a climber and what s/he actually climbs, right? What I'm asking is whether technique or some other aspect that you don't assess can compensate for some physical deficiencies? Have you written anything about that? Example: Martin Stranik is a no foot comp beast and always beats Ondra, yet they climb very different grades.
Great question. Read somewhere (maybe Hörst): From a certain grade (8b?), strength differences don't matter that much anymore - but hanging a very long time from a 20mm edge is the only(?) indicator of climbing grade capability. Seems to be closely related to "ability to try hard". Dave MacLeod emphasizes trying hard, too.
@@leoingson cheers. Ondra does too (emphasise it). But that still only addresses strength. I guess it's normal to not be able to quantify technique, but it's a tantalising problem.
yes we totally agree. The nice thing about our assessments is that sometimes we can say 'you don't need to make any more physical gains as you are already over performing here.' This then means the person can focus on working their technique and/or tactics.
When next part?
this week! stay tuned
3:58 Magnus: on some I am really weak. Tom: yeah, yeah. Don't bust his balls too much...
Magnus my boi from another mother.
nice
Could someone explain why Juji is having a tougher time climbing? Yes he's 240lbs but he also has greater muscle mass that is in proportion to his weight, so how does that work?
strength to weight ratio. His strength is not exceptional for his weight. It’s easier to climb hard when you weigh little to nothing.
muscles are heavy and you don’t quite use a lot of them to climb well. Especially as a body builder, those muscles more so weigh you down than compensate for their weight at all
Wheres Whittaker?!
I came here to see Tom with his shirt off and I am deeply sad
Awesome interview. Remember to link to each others channels. Pay it forward, you will both benefit from it ;)
Thanks for the advice Philip Ferno.
I really like these videos and I'm very grateful for them, but I think you're trying too hard to formalize the interview. We kinda just want to see you guys chat, and a qna format is great but you can face each other, set up a normal interaction like most people would. You don't have to try to awkwardly format a youtube video into something more TV-like. Anyway just some feedback, I appreciate the content may be intentionally as-is.