It was this video that brought me to the series. I knew it would be good if it took 18 videos to get to pouring the footings. Excellent video series. Thanks for keeping each video short and well planned. Very well done. The music, as others have said, is a little loud but it's short so it's ok. Great job and thanks for being willing to share your expertise.
We just got done building a footing for a 12-in retaining wall that's not holding up anything other than a couple feet of clay dirt sitting on top of solid rock on the edge of a tennis court. You should see how much rebar is in it lol. We have a 4-ft Matt with number five rebar at the bottom with trans bars 12 in on center a 12x9 chair and then another 4 ft mat on top of that also number five rebar and then l bars every 12 in. These footings are going to hold up a house and they have no rebar I'm kind of confused myself...
I build ICF homes ,we must ALWAYS put in rebar in the footing, 3 15mm all around and one across every 4-3 feet and the footing is a minimum of 32inch....
Although a level footing is important for a consistent thickness basement slab, it doesn’t necessarily have to be perfectly level, certainly doesn’t have to be level to have a level wall. That’s what a chalk line is for. Back in the 80’s , we used to form and pour foundation walls directly on the ground/dirt ..no footings , never had an issue.
rebar is only used for tensile strength, if the footing is on undisturbed soil then there is no tensile pressures therefore not needed. notice in the video that they did use rebar where the sewer trench was.
its not required depending on your local building codes and depending on your soil conditions. in this case we were on solid clay which we built on many times here with no issues. if you have any questions always ask a soil engineer and will probably recommend 2 rows of rebar in the footing.
Great video ...do you a how to video for footing for privacy fence with lock columns wrought iron with cinder block to a sidewalk.. thanks.be blessed.. merry Christmas
Great video. I am building an acreage right now and will be installing a septic system. We need to run the sewer line outside the house. Do you suggest running are sleeve underneath the footing.
depends on the elevation of the septic system if its lower than yes, in most cases it is not so it had to go through the walls usually. you can do a sleeve or leave an opening or have your guys drill into the wall later there are different ways of doing it.
better late then never! , it’s always good to put rebar in but if the foundation where you’re putting the footing is completely solid it’s not necessary, just a way to save some money. in some jurisdictions it may be required however, where I am it’s not required. in my experience most soil engineers will always require a couple rows of rebar no matter where you are, and it’s usually two in the footing and two at the top of the walls which is basically a prevention if you get a little crack. also keep in mind that even with rebar you will more than likely always get a couple of minor vertical cracks.
sorry but you are wrong I've poured hundreds of basements without rebar but it is always better to put rebar in. Always see what's spec in the foundation plan
İ need to lift one corner of the house then put some support underneath the footing. My question is, after lifting up the house, how am l supposed to fill the gap between footing and soil? Or it should be ok just the way it is? Can you guys gimme some ideas please thank you.
probably make sure you're on solid ground after you lift the corner and repour with concrete to the under side of the existing footing but best to check with a soil engineer.
Hey Roman, thanks for the awesome videos! they have been a real help! i was just curious if it is possible to pour footings in cold weather. im also from the GTA and was curious as to what temperature concrete will have trouble setting? thanks Roman!
Yes you can pour concrete in the cold weather but it is important that you cover the excavation with concrete blankets or straw and also cover the concrete once it is poured with concrete blankets or straw. its important that the ground does not get frozen where the footings are being placed.
I usually leave it up to my concrete guys and they usually prefer to put a little more water in it only because it’s a little easier to work with and it flows in the walls a little easier. the footings they always pour more of a higher slump which is pretty important for the footing and easier to work with with less water in it. usually the concrete guys have a better idea of what works for them with the walls and footings.
Roman, how come you didn't mention or show that Rebar is needed in the Footings before pouring Concrete? That is the responsibility of the Forming Company to install Rebar. Actually, in Toronto, Building Inspector requires you to have Rebar in place before he passes Inspection.
Sorry that is not always the case, especially if you're building on solid ground and if you want to be 100% sure you can always hire a soil engineer to confirm that Rebar is or is not required. In most new builds in this area and west Toronto such as Oakville, I would say that more than 80% of all new builds do not have or require Rebar.
What state are you in? You must be somewhere there is no chance of earthquake. We have to tie in verts on 18"-24" centers with J bends going opposite directions on to cont. #4 hor. bars. No wet sticking for the most part. Piers have to have 2-4 bars e.w. Lucky you. I bet you don't have to locate a dozen or more holddowns in your wall forms for openings and corners either.
The minimum standards for a house are 6 inches in depth and 18 inches in width but in most cases its 6 inches in depth by 20-22 inches in width. In different conditions there may be a requirement for different thicknesses and sizes for instance when we build on the beach in sandy conditions or close to the beach here we require much larger footings.
one thing is immediately leaping out at me, for footings, dont you have to dig down to get at or below the frost line? where are you doing this that you can just have them sitting on the ground? where i live, i have to go at least 2.5 feet down
I want to b abuilder broe n i have invested some money for the course on the otherhand im 43 years old is to late for me to do so as i have never build b4 but i have been watching thus videos
Well good luck with that, with the way you write and talk you probably won’t be able to be not even an apprentice carpenter because you need to know how to read the measuring tape and cut with precision. Go back to school about 6-7 years and maybe
Bizarre. No steel? What engineer sealed those plans? What owner didn't catch that? Is it possible they added fiberglass or Helix? Is that a suitable replacement for something that is loadbearing?
Its all better what you have indicated but in most cases its not necessary. a 6 inch x 20 inch footing on undisturbed solid soil is more than adequate to bare the loads of a standard house. I've built many houses and have had soil engineers look at lots of different situations so if you are not certain you can also hire a soils engineer to determine the size of the footing required and any other features that may be asked for such as rebar.
it is not required, it depends on your building code requirements it will be different in different areas and your soil type in your particular situation but it usually is better to put rebar in. in this case we were on very solid clay, if you ever have any concerns with footings always call a soil engineer which I have done lots of times and they usually recommend rebar in the footings and in the walls and in some cases more than that depending on what they find. I've built on many different soil conditions in this area we have clay, sand, rock, sandy loam, rubble, just to name a few.
not necessary check with your building plans, its always better to put rebar but in this case there is a cost factor and a budget that we are trying to maintain
Roman Lewczuk I've never poured concrete for anything without either wire,or rebar,and in many cases both. I don't give a damn whether it's code,or not. if my name's going on the job it's going to be right it's not going to crack a month after I leave I don't like going back and tearing out anything,and having to re pour it. and I don't care how hard the ground is a footer without rebar,and wire is going to move ,and all footers settles no matter what. and it's news to me that you can actually build anything on a footer without rebar. I never knew that,but I am not calling you a liar sir,I just never knew that.its true you learn something new everyday.
Sorry to say you and the footing inspector failed to place drainage in the footing to allow water to drain from the interior of the house to the outside. You, also, failed to place footing drainage to direct water away from the footing. See, for instance: czcams.com/video/AAbXyGtozyE/video.html Finally, you might, also, need to install a trench for a French drain.
Your loud intro music was poor choice....not interested in what you think is jazz or cool, i want find out about foundations. The sounds of people working to install the forms would be more interesting than your choice in jazz.
It is amazing the different ways , different contractors do footings and walls.
Yes different crews do different ways but the basic premise is the same.
MadhaAllah great footing 🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏘️🏘️🏘️
It was this video that brought me to the series. I knew it would be good if it took 18 videos to get to pouring the footings. Excellent video series. Thanks for keeping each video short and well planned. Very well done. The music, as others have said, is a little loud but it's short so it's ok. Great job and thanks for being willing to share your expertise.
was wondering why you don't have rebar in the footings ????
We just got done building a footing for a 12-in retaining wall that's not holding up anything other than a couple feet of clay dirt sitting on top of solid rock on the edge of a tennis court. You should see how much rebar is in it lol. We have a 4-ft Matt with number five rebar at the bottom with trans bars 12 in on center a 12x9 chair and then another 4 ft mat on top of that also number five rebar and then l bars every 12 in. These footings are going to hold up a house and they have no rebar I'm kind of confused myself...
Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure!
I build ICF homes ,we must ALWAYS put in rebar in the footing, 3 15mm all around and one across every 4-3 feet and the footing is a minimum of 32inch....
always better to have more ,but not always necessary , 2 bars of 15 mm at the top of the wall is also a good idea
What a great bunch of videos! Thank you for sharing!
Great video. Thanks!
thanks for watching
Although a level footing is important for a consistent thickness basement slab, it doesn’t necessarily have to be perfectly level, certainly doesn’t have to be level to have a level wall. That’s what a chalk line is for. Back in the 80’s , we used to form and pour foundation walls directly on the ground/dirt ..no footings , never had an issue.
you could be right, it depends on how solid your ground is. I've poured walls directly on solid bed rock
what does this mean? Pour a crooked/unlevel footer then shim your walls to level? Sounds janky
rebar is only used for tensile strength, if the footing is on undisturbed soil then there is no tensile pressures therefore not needed. notice in the video that they did use rebar where the sewer trench was.
sounds like you know your stuff that was way more technical than what I would have said you must be a soil engineer.
Yes and no. If you have diferential settlment then youll be happy you pit in rebar.
No, you need rebar.
No rebar? The inspector must be getting a kickback.
apparently not mandatory in South ON.
its not required depending on your local building codes and depending on your soil conditions. in this case we were on solid clay which we built on many times here with no issues. if you have any questions always ask a soil engineer and will probably recommend 2 rows of rebar in the footing.
No rebar in footing??
You're not required to have rebar all throughout the footing?
Not very deep footing for a house.
Great video ...do you a how to video for footing for privacy fence with lock columns wrought iron with cinder block to a sidewalk.. thanks.be blessed.. merry Christmas
no I do not
why not pour the footing and the wall at the same time?
No rod? Inside footing, steel
I just noticed that too.
Wouldnt pass inspection in rochester ny
Din't see any rebar in your footings..
Great video. I am building an acreage right now and will be installing a septic system. We need to run the sewer line outside the house. Do you suggest running are sleeve underneath the footing.
depends on the elevation of the septic system if its lower than yes, in most cases it is not so it had to go through the walls usually. you can do a sleeve or leave an opening or have your guys drill into the wall later there are different ways of doing it.
A little late!! But why no rebar in the footing
better late then never! , it’s always good to put rebar in but if the foundation where you’re putting the footing is completely solid it’s not necessary, just a way to save some money. in some jurisdictions it may be required however, where I am it’s not required. in my experience most soil engineers will always require a couple rows of rebar no matter where you are, and it’s usually two in the footing and two at the top of the walls which is basically a prevention if you get a little crack. also keep in mind that even with rebar you will more than likely always get a couple of minor vertical cracks.
How did that pass inspection? Rebar must be poured in place with hook bars to connect the stem wall rebar. Total fail here.
sorry but you are wrong I've poured hundreds of basements without rebar but it is always better to put rebar in. Always see what's spec in the foundation plan
Ummm...Where's the rebar????
an u got a lot of rebar still to do on the ENTIRE FOOTINGS or the inspector will say no go
İ need to lift one corner of the house then put some support underneath the footing. My question is, after lifting up the house, how am l supposed to fill the gap between footing and soil? Or it should be ok just the way it is? Can you guys gimme some ideas please thank you.
probably make sure you're on solid ground after you lift the corner and repour with concrete to the under side of the existing footing but best to check with a soil engineer.
Hey Roman, thanks for the awesome videos! they have been a real help! i was just curious if it is possible to pour footings in cold weather. im also from the GTA and was curious as to what temperature concrete will have trouble setting? thanks Roman!
Yes you can pour concrete in the cold weather but it is important that you cover the excavation with concrete blankets or straw and also cover the concrete once it is poured with concrete blankets or straw. its important that the ground does not get frozen where the footings are being placed.
Do you have a preference of concrete “slump” you want for the footings? 4”?
I usually leave it up to my concrete guys and they usually prefer to put a little more water in it only because it’s a little easier to work with and it flows in the walls a little easier. the footings they always pour more of a higher slump which is pretty important for the footing and easier to work with with less water in it. usually the concrete guys have a better idea of what works for them with the walls and footings.
Roman, how come you didn't mention or show that Rebar is needed in the Footings before pouring Concrete? That is the responsibility of the Forming Company to install Rebar. Actually, in Toronto, Building Inspector requires you to have Rebar in place before he passes Inspection.
Sorry that is not always the case, especially if you're building on solid ground and if you want to be 100% sure you can always hire a soil engineer to confirm that Rebar is or is not required. In most new builds in this area and west Toronto such as Oakville, I would say that more than 80% of all new builds do not have or require Rebar.
Good to know. Thanks for the information.
If you don't have rebar the chances of the house settling with resulting cracks is dramatically increased
What state are you in? You must be somewhere there is no chance of earthquake. We have to tie in verts on 18"-24" centers with J bends going opposite directions on to cont. #4 hor. bars. No wet sticking for the most part. Piers have to have 2-4 bars e.w. Lucky you. I bet you don't have to locate a dozen or more holddowns in your wall forms for openings and corners either.
yeah you're right there are no earth quakes where we are building. Biggest building concern here is in the winter with the frost.
Great video.....what is the footing width & height ?
The minimum standards for a house are 6 inches in depth and 18 inches in width but in most cases its 6 inches in depth by 20-22 inches in width. In different conditions there may be a requirement for different thicknesses and sizes for instance when we build on the beach in sandy conditions or close to the beach here we require much larger footings.
rebar in footing is not requirment
one thing is immediately leaping out at me, for footings, dont you have to dig down to get at or below the frost line? where are you doing this that you can just have them sitting on the ground? where i live, i have to go at least 2.5 feet down
feralbigdog my area only calls for 16 inches down. Was also surprised be on top.
it is dug below the frost line which is 4 feet, the basement level there is about 6 feet down.
where is the rebar this is not how we do it in bc all wrong
I want to b abuilder broe n i have invested some money for the course on the otherhand im 43 years old is to late for me to do so as i have never build b4 but i have been watching thus videos
Well good luck with that, with the way you write and talk you probably won’t be able to be not even an apprentice carpenter because you need to know how to read the measuring tape and cut with precision. Go back to school about 6-7 years and maybe
Shouldn't those (only) two rebars be seated ? (At about 2 inch from grade ?)
liviu holca yes
Nevermind, I see it in the next videos
Bizarre. No steel? What engineer sealed those plans? What owner didn't catch that? Is it possible they added fiberglass or Helix? Is that a suitable replacement for something that is loadbearing?
Its all better what you have indicated but in most cases its not necessary. a 6 inch x 20 inch footing on undisturbed solid soil is more than adequate to bare the loads of a standard house. I've built many houses and have had soil engineers look at lots of different situations so if you are not certain you can also hire a soils engineer to determine the size of the footing required and any other features that may be asked for such as rebar.
level the footings,,that is what the transit is for an should be staked off better than u know it's level
I don't know how the inspector okayed the footing without rebar running around the footings...
it is not required, it depends on your building code requirements it will be different in different areas and your soil type in your particular situation but it usually is better to put rebar in. in this case we were on very solid clay, if you ever have any concerns with footings always call a soil engineer which I have done lots of times and they usually recommend rebar in the footings and in the walls and in some cases more than that depending on what they find. I've built on many different soil conditions in this area we have clay, sand, rock, sandy loam, rubble, just to name a few.
I would remove the corner pins just before pouring. I know it's just a dollar but why leave them there ?
liviu holca if you leave them in , you can use that point to line up the walls
Truth. Can line it up using a detector if necessary
Lol where the the 5/8 rod? Grounding rod??
not required because we are grounding it to the water line which is underground
What is the ticknes of the foundation
either 10 inch or 8 inch
A footing without the wire??
Not good!
rebar is always better , but not always necessary
Ain't you supposed to rebar the whole thing?
not necessary check with your building plans, its always better to put rebar but in this case there is a cost factor and a budget that we are trying to maintain
NO REBARS ? !?!?!?!?!?!? (Reinforcing metal bars/rods along and inside the footing)
liviu holca if the ground is solid and undisturbed then its not necessary but its always better if you use rebar ,in most cases.
Roman Lewczuk I've never poured concrete for anything without either wire,or rebar,and in many cases both. I don't give a damn whether it's code,or not. if my name's going on the job it's going to be right it's not going to crack a month after I leave I don't like going back and tearing out anything,and having to re pour it. and I don't care how hard the ground is a footer without rebar,and wire is going to move ,and all footers settles no matter what. and it's news to me that you can actually build anything on a footer without rebar. I never knew that,but I am not calling you a liar sir,I just never knew that.its true you learn something new everyday.
Concrete will crack, but won't separate if it has rebar.
Yaa Allah invite Islam 🕌🕌🕌🕌🕌🕌🕌🇸🇦
there is NO WAY THAT WAS INSPECTED
yes it was and passed inspection ,
Sorry to say you and the footing inspector failed to place drainage in the footing to allow water to drain from the interior of the house to the outside.
You, also, failed to place footing drainage to direct water away from the footing.
See, for instance: czcams.com/video/AAbXyGtozyE/video.html
Finally, you might, also, need to install a trench for a French drain.
I need Mason
No digging.
Your loud intro music was poor choice....not interested in what you think is jazz or cool, i want find out about foundations. The sounds of people working to install the forms would be more interesting than your choice in jazz.
Too bad it's illegal. All footings need at least 2 rebar for international code. Why do a you-tube video with this type of ignorance?
not here.