Awesome! I met Greg Noll and Robert August in Tamarindo Costa Rica back in 1995. At the time Greg told me he loved Costa Rica because it reminded him of Hawaii back in the 50’s.
Greg, the biggest balls in surf history. So many big waves conquered. His backhand ride at 3rd reef Pipeline is simply legendary. Rest in Peace Da Bull
Love this! I'm so blessed to have an pristine 1964 Greg Noll. I rode it once before putting it away and it was awesome. These guys were and still are legends.
This is the film that inspired and challenged me as a young boy in the late 1950's to become a surfer... I bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in Hermosa, Beach 1959-60. The rest is beautiful history!
Me and my bro had a Greg Noll board with inlaid red wood stringers in summer of 66 . We were real early on surfers on Long Island NY waves.Greg was the OG inspiration for surfers those days! Instilled " Go For It" into us gremmies....THANX GREG !!!!
this is art!!!!!....I know mr. Noll in Crescent city!!!!....fantastic person....good luck Mr. Noll! thank you for everything!.....you have changed the philosophy of surfing...RESPECT
The first time I rode the Bay I was shaking and wondering what am I doing. I trained for that moment for 14 years. I was 20 and the year was 1978 and the Bay was 20-25 feet. I returned to town and got in my lifeguard tower on Waikiki and watched the sun go down knowing that I am a waterman.
James Jones Im from Ohio and cant get enough of this stuff. These guys had huge cajones to explore that wave. Hats off to you also. Surfing has always been and will continue to be the coolest sport. Ive never surfed but when I skateboarded we tried to look like surfers.
Hi James. I remember, when I was a kid, reading about your exploits at The Bay, trying to be the first to tube ride a twenty footer. I remember you as one of the most rock solid big wave surfers of your time. And you eventually became the first surfer to ride the barrel on twenty five plus! That's man size balls, and you've got them. Our hats off to you mate.
I was introduced to Greg by Riding Giants. I love that movie and Greg was so great in it. As a kid from a college town in Western VA I never surfed a day in my life. That movie introduced me to that world and some of its greatest characters. RIP Greg.
I grew up with Greg's grandchildren, Rhyn's children. Great kids. They kept the culture alive in our small, Northern California town of nothing. I'll never forget rallying friends for their families surfing competitions, and I never knew until I was an adult just how big their family was in this industry. Truly, awesomely genuine people. Rest easy, Greg.
I surfed Waimea In 1973 ; no leashes, jet skies or lifeguards ; that really added to the fear/ danger vibe. Now it's the crowds that are the major danger.
That is because you didnt surf it big enough to require them, else you wouldn't have surfed it. The jetskis are vital now to keep surfers from drowning. Going over with the lip and being stuck on the inside is a probable death sentence at most breaks when waves are "big" by today's standards. On big days there are no "crowds" outside of the worlds best. A good example is in this very video. They were "charging big waves" when a 20 foot swell was coming. Nowadays they don't even hold the Eddie Invitational at Waimea unless the reported swell is ATLEAST 60 feet, meaning there will be waves in the bay 70+. Guys survive because they condition themselves year round for such major hold downs and if they are lucky a jetski will manage to get them out of the inside before the next set. The "no leashes" thing really says it all. There is no holding onto your board in big waves. If you didnt have a leash you would have to go to the beach to find your smashed board before you even caught a wave.
RIP Greg Noll. That crew of surfers inspired me to take up surfing in the late 60's and live that lifestyle. My all time favorite board was one shaped by Mickey Munoz of whom I had the pleasure of meeting and even being in the water with. Historical surfing giants.
Even in the 70s they were pretty regular guys. Jeff Hakman gave us kids an unglassed kneeboard blank and many waves were ridden, itchily, on it. Then there was a guy named "Owl (he didn't like to be called Owl)" Chapman.
My first board was a Greg Noll 9' 4" 3 stringer with a square fin. I was 15. !962. Bought it at his shop in Hermosa Beach. I was proud as hell of that board. Broke the nose off at Dana Point. My friend glassed a balsa wood nose on it.
I was 6 years old back in 64 and we live in Peal City, one Sat, morning my dad got me up and had me ride with him to get some pineapple at the Dole Planation, then he ask me if I wanted to see some big waves! We went to the Bay and park at the church and walk across the road onto the rocks on the point, my dad told me the waves where 40ft , saw a guy with black and white shorts make 6 rides in a hour! I was in my teens when I was into surfing in North Carolina that I found out who that guys was ! RIP Greg
My first experience surfing was at Waimea ... it was wonderful! Of course it was on the shore break after the river had been drained so it made a nice little 1-2 ft. break. At the time I lived in Pupukea up the road the heiau's on, and it was using a borrowed surfboard. We had a bunch of those surfers living all around there.
That's coming from James Jones, one of the greatest surfers to ever live. Pioneer big wave surfboard designer/shaper, pioneer of huge big wave high performance. James didn't just take off and stand there, he was one of the first ones to take command of the entire surf spot and each wave he caught, whether there were others out there or not, and do deep carves in the pit and get deeply barreled at Waimea, where others were frozen stiff and running for their lives. Sometimes at Waimea or Pipeline, he would sit patiently for hours in a place where no one else was sitting, and then all of a sudden out of nowhere, here comes the wave of the day, and James isn't just on it, he is as far out as you could possibly catch it, reads it like a master, holds a perfect line in the deepest part of the wave in every section, and rides it as far as you could ride it. Definatley a stand out anywhere he surfed. A true icon of a Hawaiian Surfing Legend for many many decades at all the best spots on Oahu and the outer islands, on all the best swells. Whenever I was lucky enough to catch a classic swell going off and I saw James Jones in his car studying the waves I knew I was on the right track.
I often think of Dickey Cross often when I am in the water, and his family, I don't much about him/his background but no doubt he was a charger; I wish we could get a little more background on the "man"/kid who did not come home...
Back when Waimea, north shore, pipeline were absolutely MASSIVE!! Now these days it’s still pretty frickin massive and you can still die out there but back then, MAN I wish I could’ve at least seen it in it’s prime!!! And feel that fear and the rush the adrenaline!!! It’s waves like this that make u realize, “this is gonna kill me before any shark can get close to me” I wanna feel that man!!!
Greg Noll, Mike Stang, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz....and the other guys that names that are in legend of books....Lead the way....for crying out loud...look at the equipment...No surf reports..the final fronteir....yeah they paved it...to say the least and we owe them for years to come.🌊🌊🌊🌊👍👍🤙🤙👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎😏💥💥
I too love all the stories, but Greg Noll had to have one of the foulest mouths I’ve ever listened too. The first time I met him in person, was in 1989 at the Surf Expo, here in San Diego. He would get loaded up on booze, and curse like a sailor. man that dude had some language!! Even the others around him were like Ok, and moved along their way. Sad, as Thats my only impression of him.
RIP Greg. Now you can surf the biggest wave in afterlife!
RIP
Big dude woke up Waimea this year for the Eddie.
Awesome! I met Greg Noll and Robert August in Tamarindo Costa Rica back in 1995. At the time Greg told me he loved Costa Rica because it reminded him of Hawaii back in the 50’s.
Greg, the biggest balls in surf history. So many big waves conquered. His backhand ride at 3rd reef Pipeline is simply legendary. Rest in Peace Da Bull
You would only say that if you didn't know Woody Brown or Pat Curren. I knew tham.
Love this! I'm so blessed to have an pristine 1964 Greg Noll. I rode it once before putting it away and it was awesome. These guys were and still are legends.
This is the film that inspired and challenged me as a young boy in the late 1950's to become a surfer... I bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in Hermosa, Beach 1959-60. The rest is beautiful history!
Whatever gets someone in the water is fortune.
Steve Sparks this film didn't come out till the 2004..... ??? How can it inspire you in the 50s...😐?
Steve Sparks I grew up in Hermosa Beach and remember his shop at Pacific coast Hwy and pier ave. The good day.
😮
🙋👍👊🙏
Me and my bro had a Greg Noll board with inlaid red wood stringers in summer of 66 . We were real early on surfers on Long Island NY waves.Greg was the OG inspiration for surfers those days! Instilled " Go For It" into us gremmies....THANX GREG !!!!
when "Rumbler" starts, all hairs on my arms are going up. Amazing video
This is from riding giants.
Link Wreys rumble is a great track. One of jimmy pages favourites.
this is art!!!!!....I know mr. Noll in Crescent city!!!!....fantastic person....good luck Mr. Noll! thank you for everything!.....you have changed the philosophy of surfing...RESPECT
Hello from Gasquet!
I loved this movie. Must have watched it 50 times.
The first time I rode the Bay I was shaking and wondering what am I doing. I trained for that moment for 14 years. I was 20 and the year was 1978 and the Bay was 20-25 feet. I returned to town and got in my lifeguard tower on Waikiki and watched the sun go down knowing that I am a waterman.
James Jones love ya self much...?
James Jones Im from Ohio and cant get enough of this stuff. These guys had huge cajones to explore that wave. Hats off to you also. Surfing has always been and will continue to be the coolest sport. Ive never surfed but when I skateboarded we tried to look like surfers.
Hi James. I remember, when I was a kid, reading about your exploits at The Bay, trying to be the first to tube ride a twenty footer. I remember you as one of the most rock solid big wave surfers of your time. And you eventually became the first surfer to ride the barrel on twenty five plus! That's man size balls, and you've got them. Our hats off to you mate.
You truly are a water main and a great person. I remember reading about you in the 80s in the surf mag's .
James Jones legendary
I was introduced to Greg by Riding Giants. I love that movie and Greg was so great in it. As a kid from a college town in Western VA I never surfed a day in my life. That movie introduced me to that world and some of its greatest characters. RIP Greg.
The possibility of one of those logs coming over the falls at a guy seems scarier than sharks.
5 years later...lol
I grew up with Greg's grandchildren, Rhyn's children. Great kids. They kept the culture alive in our small, Northern California town of nothing. I'll never forget rallying friends for their families surfing competitions, and I never knew until I was an adult just how big their family was in this industry. Truly, awesomely genuine people. Rest easy, Greg.
I surfed Waimea In 1973 ; no leashes, jet skies or lifeguards ; that really added to the fear/ danger vibe. Now it's the crowds that are the major danger.
I might have watched you, l was there in the late 60s, early 70s, but never aquired the skills for the big waves. But l had fun, what an era.
That is because you didnt surf it big enough to require them, else you wouldn't have surfed it. The jetskis are vital now to keep surfers from drowning. Going over with the lip and being stuck on the inside is a probable death sentence at most breaks when waves are "big" by today's standards. On big days there are no "crowds" outside of the worlds best. A good example is in this very video. They were "charging big waves" when a 20 foot swell was coming. Nowadays they don't even hold the Eddie Invitational at Waimea unless the reported swell is ATLEAST 60 feet, meaning there will be waves in the bay 70+. Guys survive because they condition themselves year round for such major hold downs and if they are lucky a jetski will manage to get them out of the inside before the next set. The "no leashes" thing really says it all. There is no holding onto your board in big waves. If you didnt have a leash you would have to go to the beach to find your smashed board before you even caught a wave.
Historic and best music evah! Dah Bull signed my fin. In Canada of all places!
Rest in peace Pat Curren. To die on the day of the Eddie shows that the world is in tune with those who chose to be one with it. Adios Amigo-
RIP Greg Noll. That crew of surfers inspired me to take up surfing in the late 60's and live that lifestyle. My all time favorite board was one shaped by Mickey Munoz of whom I had the pleasure of meeting and even being in the water with. Historical surfing giants.
Surf in Peace, Legend Greg hopefully reunited with ya Gal, Waimea Bay !!
No leashes... enough said.
Charlie Cornwell if they wiped out they had to swim back and get them, then paddle back out.
Such a great story. From back when surfers were regular guys....
Even in the 70s they were pretty regular guys. Jeff Hakman gave us kids an unglassed kneeboard blank and many waves were ridden, itchily, on it. Then there was a guy named "Owl (he didn't like to be called Owl)" Chapman.
My first board was a Greg Noll 9' 4" 3 stringer with a square fin. I was 15. !962. Bought it at his shop in Hermosa Beach. I was proud as hell of that board. Broke the nose off at Dana Point. My friend glassed a balsa wood nose on it.
So good!!! Bring it back!!! :0)
I was 6 years old back in 64 and we live in
Peal City, one Sat, morning my dad got me up and had me ride with him to get some pineapple at the Dole Planation, then he ask me if I wanted to see some big waves! We went to the Bay and park at the church and walk across the road onto the rocks on the point, my dad told me the waves where 40ft , saw a guy with black and white shorts make 6 rides in a hour! I was in my teens when I was into surfing in North Carolina that I found out who that guys was ! RIP Greg
the best movie ever
Very brave adventurers…..thank you for your commitment and courage.
Old School...love it!
Legends,
Riding Giants by giants.
Greg you have fans you never know you had.
Thankyou
Absolute legends.
Greg ----> Legend
I sat on the beach talking with Mickey Munoz for about 2 hours. He was quite the gentleman.
Greg ' Da Bull ' Noll....Shine on. Longboards rule
RIP Greg!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Like wish RIP
Likewise *
Real history and real good guys.
Bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in 1960. George in Montana
Neste ano, dependendo o mês, eu estava nascendo, wameia Bay, long time
Foi em novembro esse dia épico que eles pegaram
My first experience surfing was at Waimea ... it was wonderful! Of course it was on the shore break after the river had been drained so it made a nice little 1-2 ft. break. At the time I lived in Pupukea up the road the heiau's on, and it was using a borrowed surfboard. We had a bunch of those surfers living all around there.
Great Video, I am sorry to hear about surfers that never come back though. Outrageous Waves.
These big days are no joke!
That's coming from James Jones, one of the greatest surfers to ever live. Pioneer big wave surfboard designer/shaper, pioneer of huge big wave high performance. James didn't just take off and stand there, he was one of the first ones to take command of the entire surf spot and each wave he caught, whether there were others out there or not, and do deep carves in the pit and get deeply barreled at Waimea, where others were frozen stiff and running for their lives. Sometimes at Waimea or Pipeline, he would sit patiently for hours in a place where no one else was sitting, and then all of a sudden out of nowhere, here comes the wave of the day, and James isn't just on it, he is as far out as you could possibly catch it, reads it like a master, holds a perfect line in the deepest part of the wave in every section, and rides it as far as you could ride it. Definatley a stand out anywhere he surfed. A true icon of a Hawaiian Surfing Legend for many many decades at all the best spots on Oahu and the outer islands, on all the best swells. Whenever I was lucky enough to catch a classic swell going off and I saw James Jones in his car studying the waves I knew I was on the right track.
I often think of Dickey Cross often when I am in the water, and his family, I don't much about him/his background but no doubt he was a charger; I wish we could get a little more background on the "man"/kid who did not come home...
Riding Giants = Best movie ever.
Rip to this great great man!
Best documentary ever.. Stacey killed it pipe masters is a good one too
RIP greg, it was long journey.
When it came to the Space Race - These were top Astronaut prospects.
First board I ever owned was a 6'8" Noll Spear...
What year?
Fantastic !
Awesome !
The first song is "Glass Off" by Bangkok Starters
Buen Viaje grandote.
amazing
Back when Waimea, north shore, pipeline were absolutely MASSIVE!! Now these days it’s still pretty frickin massive and you can still die out there but back then, MAN I wish I could’ve at least seen it in it’s prime!!! And feel that fear and the rush the adrenaline!!! It’s waves like this that make u realize, “this is gonna kill me before any shark can get close to me” I wanna feel that man!!!
Legends Neva Die.
Gladiators!!
RIP Noll
Jewel.
Noll is a Badass
Shea, so do I brother!!! So do I!!!!
imagine doing riding these waves on a single fin surfboard LOl .. these guys were mental
Who is here because Greg Noll just died? RIP
Jeeesh, now you can walk across all the boards out there these days and not get wet!
RIP to Da Bull
Anyone know the name of the music starting around 21 seconds?
Now surfers are riding Nazare. Big difference though, there were no jetskis to rescue these guys or leashes for boards.
R.I.P. DA BULL!
Greg Noll, Mike Stang, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz....and the other guys that names that are in legend of books....Lead the way....for crying out loud...look at the equipment...No surf reports..the final fronteir....yeah they paved it...to say the least and we owe them for years to come.🌊🌊🌊🌊👍👍🤙🤙👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎😏💥💥
I wonder how these guys were able to walk. With 10lb cast iron balls!
holo nalu a mau loa me ka maluhia ❤🤙
Surf forever in peace.
Aloha nui loa.
Mahalo
🙏
I wonder how long it took to paddle out on hose huge beach break days. Where are the jet skis and flotation vests?
RIP
Pioneers☯️🌈☯️♥️♥️
I saw Greg's high priced art at mckibben art museum in Corona del Mar
Gotta love Pat Curren aka Mr. Understatement
Doing that with the support of Jet Ski is pretty full-on, but pulling yourself into waves like that - that is batshit crazy...
song?
Some people say that Harry Schurch was out surfing Waimea earlier the same day.
epic
Aloha Brother!
Did Polynesians not ride 20'+ waves or was it really groundbreaking for the time?
You did recognize Mr Hahn's mix right? :D
"The safer... deep water... Waimea Bay..." "Safer." BALLS!
Can someone please tell me the name of this movie
so glad i moved to north shore from malibu. i have a whole new life now. and its awesome
1957 is the year I started surfing in Sunset Beach
Jeez. I was 4 splashing around at Ala Moana.
เป็น10ปีแล้ว
This is from Riding Giants
wooden boards no leash incredible
Rip bull... What's the first zik????
ยังหาด
Great big z
The wedge was unsurfable til the 80s - then Christian Fletcher showed them how 🌊
i dont wanna get wiped out -that is funny
whats the song where Greg and crew paddle out at 2:39?
Jackdownhilldobson Link Wray - Rumble
I too love all the stories, but Greg Noll had to have one of the foulest mouths I’ve ever listened too. The first time I met him in person, was in 1989 at the Surf Expo, here in San Diego. He would get loaded up on booze, and curse like a sailor. man that dude had some language!! Even the others around him were like Ok, and moved along their way. Sad, as Thats my only impression of him.
Are you woke
They didn't mention anything about Buzzy Trent. Shame...
If you watch the full movie he's very much featured
Fuckin soooooo sick
Fuckin legends !!!
When you do the impossible.