13:30 "T" (time) setting for the little switch on the base of release button is for "Time" exposure. If you set the shutter to "B", set this switch to "T" and press release button, the shutter will stay open until you move the switch to "O" (open) again. Also, this switch is needed when you use self-timer built in the C lenses.
a good tip here is that the Dark slide is the ONLY way to lock the shutter, so if you don't want the film to be shot by accident do one of two things: 1 PUT the slide IN the back; or 2 Take the magazine off the camera, then nothing can ruin the film, ALSO a great way to save film if you take your camera overseas (use an aircraft) as the customs NEED to check your luggage, but if you tell them about the film, they will let you put the back in the "carry-on" luggage, so the x-ray doesn't touch it!!, IT OF COURSE being checked by hand first:)))
PS: the camera only holds open the AUX shutter in the rear , the lens's Copal shutter is shut under the shutters own steam, by the springs in the lens, so during long exposures the front shutter can shut before the rear safety shutter, and all this without holding the button the whole time, which, by the way you HAVE to do otherwise (unless you trigger by a locking cable release {THE 'T' SETTING ON THE TRIGGER DOES NOT WORK ON THE RELEASE CABLE}) as if you don't do it this way the rear shutter ends the exposure EARLY, BEFORE the front shutter has had the time to close!!!
Funny thing ...you are right ..but actually mine is the 1971 version which was the first c/m before they changed the model number...the title should have actually said C/M ...so, it is removable on mine ...just like the c/m ...:-)
You actually have a early version of the C/M. You probably have a serial number that starts with UV. What makes it a M camera is the ease of removal of the ground glass. The original C needed you to use a screwdriver to change the glass.
Thanks ... I figured this out later on, as I was not the original owner. It has always been sort of strange, having to explain that the label says C, but that it clearly has the functionality of the C/M...like the removable ground glass feature. Anyway, I still have it and enjoy it.
EV value....exposure value value. Second video I've seen this in. Otherwise, I liked your video. I'm in the market for that 80mm, my 150mm is a bit long.
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series Hasselblad cameras and specially the Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 and the Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, for the 110mm get also the 2x Zeiss Mutar or the late 2x of Hallelds own it gives a very good 220mm 4.0 with great close focus ! The 50mm have a very good close focusing down to 15x15cm ! The Zeiss Tele-Tessar 350mm 4.0 are also very good as the Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, off course the Hasselblad SWC with 28mm is also very good. www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx
I agree ...will work on this for the next video. Here is a link on my blog which has some nice photos of cars taken with this camera / lens combo. www.stevantontich.com/blog/2016/7/16/selection-of-bw-classic-car-photographs
Hasselblad is a great camera to try medium format film ...but it is about a $1000 to get a nice one ...there are less expensive options ...like Yashica 124 or Bronica SQ-A if you want just to try...of course, you will never go wrong with a Hassy .. :-)
13:30 "T" (time) setting for the little switch on the base of release button is for "Time" exposure. If you set the shutter to "B", set this switch to "T" and press release button, the shutter will stay open until you move the switch to "O" (open) again. Also, this switch is needed when you use self-timer built in the C lenses.
Great review! Thank you kindly !
Wonderful presentation, gets me very much clear on this Thanks a lot.....!!!!!!!
a good tip here is that the Dark slide is the ONLY way to lock the shutter, so if you don't want the film to be shot by accident do one of two things: 1 PUT the slide IN the back; or 2 Take the magazine off the camera, then nothing can ruin the film, ALSO a great way to save film if you take your camera overseas (use an aircraft) as the customs NEED to check your luggage, but if you tell them about the film, they will let you put the back in the "carry-on" luggage, so the x-ray doesn't touch it!!, IT OF COURSE being checked by hand first:)))
Thanks this was interesting
PS: the camera only holds open the AUX shutter in the rear , the lens's Copal shutter is shut under the shutters own steam, by the springs in the lens, so during long exposures the front shutter can shut before the rear safety shutter, and all this without holding the button the whole time, which, by the way you HAVE to do otherwise (unless you trigger by a locking cable release {THE 'T' SETTING ON THE TRIGGER DOES NOT WORK ON THE RELEASE CABLE}) as if you don't do it this way the rear shutter ends the exposure EARLY, BEFORE the front shutter has had the time to close!!!
I did not think that the focusing screen was removable on the ‘c’ model - only on the ‘cm’ and later. Good video!
Funny thing ...you are right ..but actually mine is the 1971 version which was the first c/m before they changed the model number...the title should have actually said C/M ...so, it is removable on mine ...just like the c/m ...:-)
my 500c is 1971 too and have the changeable focus screen...
You actually have a early version of the C/M. You probably have a serial number that starts with UV. What makes it a M camera is the ease of removal of the ground glass. The original C needed you to use a screwdriver to change the glass.
Thanks ... I figured this out later on, as I was not the original owner. It has always been sort of strange, having to explain that the label says C, but that it clearly has the functionality of the C/M...like the removable ground glass feature. Anyway, I still have it and enjoy it.
awesome 👏🏻
thanks
EV value....exposure value value. Second video I've seen this in.
Otherwise, I liked your video. I'm in the market for that 80mm, my 150mm is a bit long.
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series Hasselblad cameras and
specially the Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 and the Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0,
for the 110mm get also the 2x Zeiss Mutar or the late 2x of Hallelds own
it gives a very good 220mm 4.0 with great close focus ! The 50mm have a
very good close focusing down to 15x15cm ! The Zeiss Tele-Tessar 350mm
4.0 are also very good as the Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, off course
the Hasselblad SWC with 28mm is also very good.
www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx
you EV example is off by one stop. f2.8 would be compatible with 1/500s
Thanks for the video but some sample images would have been nice!
I agree ...will work on this for the next video. Here is a link on my blog which has some nice photos of cars taken with this camera / lens combo. www.stevantontich.com/blog/2016/7/16/selection-of-bw-classic-car-photographs
Really great photographs and the image quality is amazing!
Would you recommend this camera to someone who wants to try film?
Hasselblad is a great camera to try medium format film ...but it is about a $1000 to get a nice one ...there are less expensive options ...like Yashica 124 or Bronica SQ-A if you want just to try...of course, you will never go wrong with a Hassy .. :-)