I have done 40 years of soldering and repairing PWB'S. Clinton, you did a mighty fine job. 😊 Awesome! 😊 I still have all my soldering tools and solder!
Hi Clint you keep saying your no expert but from what I’m seeing you have more diagnostic skills than anyone from our local Deere dealer a testament to your dads teachings over the years 👍 you look for the problem not simply throw parts at it
20:28 I’m 77 now still remember doing jobs similar to this. Happened to have a customer bring in a board with the same thing a couple bad capacitors. It was a quick repair and as I was writing up the paperwork he says Damn expensive for no more than you did. My reply was , You wanted an in a hurry, drop everything emergency repair. You’re paying for my knowledge not for my time. If it was that easy everyone could do it. Great work Clint 😁👍
Clint, You should use rosin core solder on electronic devices not acid core. That's for plumbing (copper fittings). Acid core solder will eventually corrode the traces and lands on the circuit board. Great video as always.
Clint, if you can find some conformal coating, that is what the whole board is coated with, and after you are done soldering with the rosin core solder, clean everything with alcohol and then put the conformal coating on the area where you did the repair. That should make for a long-lasting repair.
This is correct advice Clint. I've been working on electronics for 50 years. Acid flux is for plumbing. Acid free or rosin core is for electronics. Your local radio shop can sell you some.
Clint, A little off-topic from today's video, but I recently moved to WNC and as I was driving on a local road, I had to do a double-take when I spotted a white HET parked in a truck shed. It's your HET wrecker! I noticed it has a different grille with the buyer's company name on it now. I was very surprised to find that, after watching the entire build, the truck ends up just a few miles from my home. I'm looking forward to seeing it on the road around here. I enjoy watching the content on your channel - All of it. Thanks!
I think he made the new grill for the company. Some reason i think i remember either seeing it ready to be loaded and shipped with the HET or he mentioned something about it.
Hope you get to see it working, that thing is a beast! Wish it was part of a towing truck otator CZcams channel so I could see it doing recoveries. Like Jamie Davis, Pepe's towing, Ron Pratt, Murphys Diesel, Matt's off-road recovery or several others I can't think of right now.
Thanks for another entertaining video Bub, that amazes me that those companies that repair that stuff can't do a good job. Charging like half price and then they do a crapy job putting it back together again. Glad you figured out how to bypass all that and refurbish it yourself.
Some questions and/or suggestions. Many companies, make an electronic cleaner to spray down the contacts on the connectors and the contacts of the controller. (CRC QD Electronic Cleaner)(available at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, and Amazon etc.) is just one example. After the contacts are cleaned off and blown dry you can put some dielectric grease on all the contacts to reduce corrosion and help keep them waterproof. The super glue you used seems to be just regular super glue which is very thin, like water. While that glue may keep the sticker on it will not do a great job on sealing moisture from leaking under the sticker. Loctite sells an Ultra Gel Control Super Glue that is no drip or run, impact and water resistant, and flexible. If you put a bead all around the sticker and around the view screen and push buttons it would do a much better job keeping moisture, dust, and debris out of the controller. (available at Home Depot, Walmart, Amazon, and Walmart)
Love the channel. I came to say the same thing about sealing up the display and buttons better to keep out the moisture. Also strongly agree that the new capacitors should really be supported for longevity. I've seen capacitors break loose over time in situations where the board is subjected to vibration and shock. All the best and really enjoying the content!
Clint has done a few of you guys a big favor here in showing this. How many of your equipment dealers would want you to see these tips I wonder! LOL. However, If any of you folks are planning to do work on electronics make sure, absolutely sure, that you buy solder, silicone and generally everything you may need and use, from an ELECTRONICS supplier. There IS a BIG difference in solder and silicones for electronics as compared to standard plumbing solders and silicones. ALSO, never, ever use your breath to blow dust away from electronics connectors, your breath contains moisture,... 'nuff said? I learned the hard way, and after some 40 years in the equipment business. I'm just trying to help you here. I am NOT being critical of Clint's work here, I am ( as I've said ) just trying to help some of you and steer you in the directions that may save you from getting a headache or two.
I have been an electronics troubleshooter all of my working life and have saved my companies hundreds of thousands of dollars. Skills like these are always highly sought after and in demand! I am now retired and just today fixed an IC board on an FDM printer!
Clinton, in the future you should remove the capacitor from the circuit before testing. It will give you a false reading if it is still connected to the circuit. Great job on the solder repair, looks like you’ve done this before…love your vids!
Clinton you did a great job diagnosing and repairing the problem. Very educational video. Thanks. The little 5 year girl Ava Rigney that was diagnosed with cancer had her 1st. Chemo treatment and it destroyed 60% of it. She is back to eating,her bodily functions is working again, and she is wanting to pray. Thanks to all the Prayers but Thank God.
Clint, & have spent 70 years working in electronics, My only suggestion would be that you throw away that acid core solder. You need to be using rosin core solder. Nice Job. Gary In the beautiful Ozark Mountains of north West Arkansas
Agree from the flat farm land of Central Arkansas. I NEVER use acid core on anything. Solid with flux on plumbing, rosin core with Colophane flux on electronics.
Hi Mr C i have said it before on the comments but i will say it again my god you are impressive with the knowledge you have in your head thanks you for sharing
Greetings Clint I am an electronics guy who started my first job in a Radio-TV repair shop and then joined the USAF and later went to work for the military-industrial complex manufacturing sophisticated electronic equipment, satellite communications equipment mostly! Usually, when you're checking capacitors it should be done out of the circuit because the circuits around them may affect the reading! If you have good experience doing it your way and it works, so be it, but usually that's not the way it's done! Those are electrolytic capacitors that's why there is a positive and negative connection, which are usually used in the power supply to filter the power so you have clean DC voltage! AGAIN you guys' intuition and determination to get the job done as efficiently and economically as possible is a lesson to be learned by all in the trade! 👏🏽 👍🏼☺
What I always gonna kick your Out of this as a mechanic, There's so many different trades that you get involved in trying to make the machine work. You are a,welder, Diesel mechanic, Electronics mechanic, Paint, oil change technician, Hydraulic fluid technician, And a business owner!
Back in the early 80’s I used to repair modems using the same capacitor replacement. Note that in circuit the tester will read capacitors differently than out of circuit. Good video!
You know your stuff Clint respect... The fix was easy but knowing what the problem was... Nice to see you went to a local "radio" shop, they know more about electronics or those things then the original engineers. They made their job out of their hobby. Top video!
Great job Clint. I would recommend wearing a grounding strap, or standing on a grounding mat to eliminate any static electricity. One little jolt could fry the entire board.
Free advice from a veteran Aerospace Engineer that has dealt with electrical components for many decades (through the phases from Vacuum Tubes, thru hole and now surface mount components). Even with "power off", those same capacitors have enough power stored to set up "decay" in the PCB components; it won't "fry" them immediately but down the road, they will begin to fail. My un-named multi $Billion Company learned the hard way ... we even took away "Solder Suckers" from our techs as it was doing the same thing via the internal springs ... letting loose "ESD" pulses. The answer is easy ... "ESD Wrist Straps" ... no matter the situation. "Antistatic wrist straps are designed to prevent build-up of static electricity and safely ground operators who are working with ESD sensitive components, . Antistat's range of wrist straps are designed to be worn close to the skin establishing a path to ground." So please use one when handling PCB's and components ... you can't really believe how little power can affect SMT components like this. You're welcome. P.S. Poor design by JD on the cover ... would recommend using some foam tape ("weather striping") on the cover faces to prevent future ingress of water during life cycle.
Clint, I have been watching your channel for a few years. Today was one of the most interesting for me, being a guy with an electronics background. You really handled that job with a demonstrated expertise!
Hi Clint, another guy with 40+ years of board level maintenance under my belt. !-Never use Acid Core Solder, ALWAYS use some Rosin Core, that will avoid the acid destroying the board. Unsolder the caps for proper testing. Isopropyl Alcohol will remove flux after soldering is complete. I would have used some Silicone to put the switch board back, will hold really nice, plus add the waterproofing benefits that housing needs. Was there a new gasket applied when you replaced that module on the dozer? That Silicone would work there as well. Solder wick is OK, I prefer a good "SoldaPullit" unit to remove molten solder. Better is a vacuum heat unit, makes quick work in circuit board repair. I'm going to send you a care package of items, they will aid you in your next Board Level Adventure! Overall NICE JOB!
As Clint stated all 'electrolytic capacitors' have a finite lifespan and can eventually dry out inside, once dry they need replacing. But they need to be measured when out of the board, if they are still connected on the board, you'll not get a real reading. Also good advice for not buying cheap capacitors off the internet as quality and life-expectancy is really very poor on the cheap ones. Life expectancy of capacitors vary wildly with quality of manufacture, the design of the board and the environmental extremes they will work in (such as high and low temperatures)
As usual, Clinton comes through. Just a couple of points, not criticism just word of caution. When you get in that same position, remove the capacitor from the board, then test it. You can get a misread from the circuit, most likely from resistors can/does happen with other components. As you were told, within 10% of target ok, higher than, discard. You will read lots of different views on solder. Both acid and rosin (flux) cored can cause problems. Never use Lead free solder on old circuit boards, it can cause different problems. Finally, use thicker superglue, ask your local mom & pop store for the thicker type, it sticks to the plastic better and doesn't spread so much as the thin. Then use any bathroom sealant to seal up the bottom of case to prevent water ingress. Job Done. Hope that helps.Regards from UK.
I'd recommend being very picky about any sealant you use near electronics. Particularly "bathroom" types as they cure by the release of acetic acid (vinegar). That is really bad news for any electronics. The right sealants are readily available. I suspect that the bodges of sealant round those original capacitors are an indication that somebody has been in before you.
The Electrical Engineer in me was impressed. Nice work! One suggestion get an ESD mat and grounding strap. Those old electronics cannot take much of an ESD event. Testing capacitors can be effected by holding them or in circuit. Know what a new capacitor reads in circuit.
I appreciate how you take customer issues so seriously and follow through with excellent application of years of knowledge. On top of all that, I also appreciate you sharing your repairs. Thank you so much!
Good job on the Controller, Clinton. If you have trouble with electronic equipment the capacitors are a good place to start trouble shooting. There was a period of time when manufacturers focused on cheap & it was very common for capacitors to swell up & become dis-functional. When I was looking after a fleet of junk I found that dielectric grease was my friend for protecting electrical junctions from moisture & rust!
Having been a retired automotive field tech, I always appreciate the deep dive diagnostics, especially system "ghost" codes. High end audio/electronic shops might have these (capacitors). Little critters sure enjoy those warm electronics on a cold night. You're a great diagnostician and really enjoy this side too.
To the guy that was at the auction with the dump trucks. Loved ur comment on the mack truck. The mack b models and the steelnose dms with the steel dash are the true macks. Learned to drive on a b model mack concrete truck and did drive a dm 600 steelnose with steel dash. Like all the big 22 inch steering wheels and and love all the macks with with the steel spoke wheels. No bud or aluminum wheels. As a kid best time was n that concrete truck with dad.
Way back in 1971, I worked in an oilfield wireline shop. We had issues with capacitors in some of our older equipment. In the 1960's the capacitors that were common were paper and aluminum foil construction. In Louisiana, it is very humid and the capacitors were shorting out because the paper (dialectic) part of the capacitor would break down in the humidity. Our circuit boards were fixed by installing electrolytic capacitors. It sounds like the exact same problem you are seeing. In fact, the old devices you removed even look like the old style capacitors we were replacing. It is amazing anyone would still be using the paper aluminum foil type of capacitor.
My only suggestion would be to seal the plastic cover as well. Maybe some self adhesive foam tape or something. Silicon would be a bugger for the next person having a go at fixing things. Most electronics die from leaky caps. They leak electrolyte like dry cell batterys! Nice work Clint. Cheers and G'day from Tasmania
Great video. That’s a big reason why I watch the channel. It’s because you share your knowledge. Some folks keep the knowledge to themselves for the power trip. Keep teaching there are people watching who value your knowledge.
For not being an electrician, I think you did a great job Clint! Thanks for sharing this video my friend, you made it look easy! All people have to do is watch Utube videos and learn, customer has to be satisfied when he comes back to pick up the dozer! It sure looks amazing Clint and Kevin’s awesome paint job! My oldest brother was a commercial AC engineer and he knows all about testing computer boards! Doesn’t do it anymore because he’s retired and has medical issues now! But if I need something I just call him! He’s always been one of those guys that takes things apart and studies them and usually fixes them! I’ve seen him tear down a starter when he was 19 years old and fix it! Thanks Clint! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸✌🏻✌🏻🙋🏼
Watching you work on this intricate parts reminds me of my 50+ year old son - how you both do it amazes me - control and determination to the max. Great work Mr C.
Clint given you are a business the things you share shows me you are a top shelf guy too. I would have no issues what so ever buying from you new or used!!!! I see comment here capacitors (and quite a few other components) are best tested out of circuit this is correct BUT it really does depend on the internal circuitry that can lead to confusing results IF your are not "an electronics" guy. When in doubt take them out!
Just a note. For electronic soldering you should use 60-40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electronic Soldering. Not acid core and flux, it will corrode over time causing a bad connection. Also a 3 wire capacitor is two capacitors in one can.
Excellent job. In today’s society we live in a throw away world. Most big companies would have scrapped that unit. It is truly sad we forgot how to do jobs like this. I dabble in electronics and it is very easy to do this repair. Just make sure you orientate the capacitor into the same position that you took it off. These big companies don’t want people to do these repairs so they can sell you a new machines. Up to 20 years ago you could have taken this controller into an electrical repair shop and had this done. Not any more. There is a group of small business guys that have electrical repair shops fighting for the right to repair bill which in the senate right now so we can go ahead and repair these components for a fraction of what these giant corporations would normally charge the end user. It is really sad that we got side lined by these big companies like John Deere, Apple products, Samsung, etc.
The best wholesale source for electronic components I'd DiGiKey. I've been buying from them for decades. Those caps are about 85 cents from them. Clint should use 125 degree rated caps for outdoor equipment to handle summer temps that equipment will see. I've 40 plus years as an electronics tech.
I like that you used star washers to get a good electrical connection, but something else we used star washers for at Ford Product Development, was to fix squeaky dash or trim panels. You put them between the panel and the bodywork, but you put one on the bolt/screw head side as well. Worked like magic to stop squeaks and rattles.
This is the same repair made to lots of older electronics. Jeeps with a 4.0L have an ECU which famously fails, and the fix is to replace all the electrolytic (can style) capacitors. I fixed a couple of those, and also a battery tender, all by replacing the capacitors. Good stuff.
Nice job Clint. You're finally in my wheelhouse! That sponge on your soldering iron stand is to clean the tip. They work much better if you wet them and wring out the excess moisture, and THEN clean the oxide and burned flux off the tip. As others have said, replace the capacitors with an equal or higher temperature rating without exceeding the physical size (looks like height is the limiting factor here). Replacing with the same capacitor (assuming you can still get them) will ensure you have that third stability leg ... and should last as long as the originals did. The NTE replacement parts will work, but I am unsure whether they have the same working temperature range the originals did ... BUT at least you know how to replace them if needed. The silicon around the capacitors is indeed intended to reduce vibration ... and keeping the leads and circuit board from breaking. I'd clean the old stuff off and replace with a non-acidic RTV. Thanks for bringing us all along ... I'm certainly not about to go into the heavy equipment repair/restoration business, but as I've said many times "Work fascinates me ... I could watch it for hours". Regards, R
Another quick tip with capacitors, the relief lines that are carved into the tops of the capacitor (to allow for expansion when they blow sometimes) if the tops of the capacitors are swollen or are raised that usually indicates a bad capacitor, I e seen them slightly bulged and we're bad, this is very common in flat screen TV'S that have the "click of death" cycling on and off, pull the power board and check for swollen capacitors, 90% of the time they're the culprit 👍
Back in my day, it was Radio Shack that had all the capsitors and so forth. Now, we have to get things online or drive into Houston.....I'll pass on that on. Lol😊
I repair those Sauer Danfoss MC300 transmission controls at ERD in Kernersville, NC. See our videos showing the dozer simulator used to test them. I've repaired ones in VERY bad shape. Excellent video! Great to see this dozer in action!
Awesome video Clint! I don’t know of anyone who figures out something like that and shares that information for free! You share so much information and knowledge it’s always appreciated and why we never miss a video from you guys! Way to go helping out the little guys like myself!Probably any electronic stuff that has capacitors would be worth trying that fix. I will definitely try that now if I run across a similar problem. We saw you guys out watching the helicopter near your shop today while we were heading home. Have a great day and thanks again!
I was taught a long time ago to use resin core solder on electronics, that acid core would corrode the connections. But maybe it doesn't matter actually. Not a criticism, just an observation. Other than that, I really really enjoy your videos. I feel like I'm there with you. Thank you for including me.
You passed on an excellent tip, however you should bone up on ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) protection. The best short tip I can give to anyone who is going to send the unit out for repair is to leave the circuit board in the case when sending it out. The last thing one wants to do is wander around with the circuit board in their hand and then put it into a plastic bag.
Great Job!!! I just repaired our dishwasher by replacing a cap on its board... Easy cheap fix that would've cost $200 for part + labor!!! Made my wife VERY happy ;-)
Clint It is important to get both the capacitance and the Voltage rating right when buying new capacitors. The Voltage should be equal to or higher than the marking on the old part. NEVER use a lower voltage rated part Cheers Eric
Micro soldering hobbyist here . I work under microscope. Damn fine job . There are UV cured / natural light cured sealants that allow for thermal conductivity you can use on repair areas to help guard agaist future corrosion. " UV Mask " with a UV light . Takes 30 seconds to cure . Love your videos
Sadly Clint, I now remember you doing this before but completely forgot everything till you did it again. It is a great video and think if people just calm down, think things through, life will continue as our nation is under a bad administration and think oil instead of us, the people who placed them in office to help us maintain a normal to us now life. I am the chicken little and tend to throw my hands in the air till I just calm down and say hey,..... they still can't eat us.... can they??? LOL
Tres bien. moi meme j'ai ete electricien d'usine, étant retraité, je bricole encore beaucoup dans l'électronique et ce que vous avez fait là est très bien. Je suis ravis de voir tout ce que vous faite, c'est super. Ne changez rien a votre travail. Nyssen Dominique, de Dinant Belgique.
You cannot measure a capacitor value while it is still in the circuit. You have to remove the capacitors then measure them. use an esr meter to test in circuit.
I have done hundreds of capacitors in a certain industrial robots power supplies. They get hot and old and slowly fail. The supplies are over $1000 used and with over 800 robots running production that can become costly. One thing I would suggest Clint is to put some hot glue (or silicone) back around the replacement capacitors. Vibration and heat will over time crack the solder joints on the leads and make intermittent issues. That is why there was silicone around the old ones to begin with. Otherwise great job.
Clint I noticed when you were reinstalling the circuit board that you had not put silicone back around the capacitors. The silicone is there for vibration resistance. Under vibration, the tall capacitor will shake and fatigue the leads, causing them to break off between the circuit board and capacitor body. A little silicone will go along way to dampen the vibration, making it last a lot longer.
I know it's a open cab and all but dang that controller was crazy dirty wow great job thanks for showing us I'm sure you have pissed off alot of people that were way over charging people
Awesome video!!! Love this kind of stuff. The white strip down the side of a capacitor is always the negative. Little tip keep the videos coming Mr. C have a blessed week. Seen you were using harbor freight tools mine mine mine!! Lol 😆🤣😭
Great video. Did the same thing, different platform, on a 94 Ford Bronco. Replaced a resistor in the air bag control module. Cost me $6.00 . Had no choice, parts no longer available. Took 5 minutes.😂
One minute, you're hitting things with a wreaking ball , and now you're doing fine soldering work. Very impressive.
That was my exact thought!
Capacitors should be tested out of circuit, hope this helps
Indeed. Must be removed first or you are not measuring anything of value.
Nice work Clint ;) Cheers Ray (UK)
@@aeros4me*Clint. You thinking of Kurtis @ CEE in Australia
@@tdotw77 ooooops!
I have done 40 years of soldering and repairing PWB'S. Clinton, you did a mighty fine job. 😊 Awesome! 😊 I still have all my soldering tools and solder!
@@ericwilkinson1771 Why is that?
Really cool footage, Clint!!!
@rhondasweeney7271 because they want yah to buy a new one
You did one mighty fine job Clint!!!!!
John Deere will be calling to hire you to do there fixing ,lol ThanksBigAlCalifornia
Hi Clint you keep saying your no expert but from what I’m seeing you have more diagnostic skills than anyone from our local Deere dealer a testament to your dads teachings over the years 👍 you look for the problem not simply throw parts at it
20:28 I’m 77 now still remember doing jobs similar to this. Happened to have a customer bring in a board with the same thing a couple bad capacitors. It was a quick repair and as I was writing up the paperwork he says Damn expensive for no more than you did. My reply was , You wanted an in a hurry, drop everything emergency repair. You’re paying for my knowledge not for my time. If it was that easy everyone could do it.
Great work Clint 😁👍
Well said, sir! BTW, I've got 12 months on you and I've told more than one customer the very same!
We pay for an expert's/craftspersons knowledge not their time. Good job!
Clint, You should use rosin core solder on electronic devices not acid core. That's for plumbing (copper fittings). Acid core solder will eventually corrode the traces and lands on the circuit board. Great video as always.
Also use some alcohol to clear off the remaining flux, helps keep the corrosion down.
Clint, if you can find some conformal coating, that is what the whole board is coated with, and after you are done soldering with the rosin core solder, clean everything with alcohol and then put the conformal coating on the area where you did the repair. That should make for a long-lasting repair.
This is correct advice Clint. I've been working on electronics for 50 years. Acid flux is for plumbing. Acid free or rosin core is for electronics. Your local radio shop can sell you some.
I don't think that little tube of solder was for plumbing. Not sure if it was acid core or not, but definitely not plumbing solder.
Clint said in the beginning of the video it was acid core solder and that small tin had acid flux in it.
@@tdotw77
You never cease to amaze in your ability to trouble shoot and repair! Well done!
Clint, A little off-topic from today's video, but I recently moved to WNC and as I was driving on a local road, I had to do a double-take when I spotted a white HET parked in a truck shed. It's your HET wrecker! I noticed it has a different grille with the buyer's company name on it now. I was very surprised to find that, after watching the entire build, the truck ends up just a few miles from my home. I'm looking forward to seeing it on the road around here. I enjoy watching the content on your channel - All of it. Thanks!
Small world
I think he made the new grill for the company. Some reason i think i remember either seeing it ready to be loaded and shipped with the HET or he mentioned something about it.
Hope you get to see it working, that thing is a beast! Wish it was part of a towing truck
otator CZcams channel so I could see it doing recoveries. Like Jamie Davis, Pepe's towing, Ron Pratt, Murphys Diesel, Matt's off-road recovery or several others I can't think of right now.
Thanks for another entertaining video Bub, that amazes me that those companies that repair that stuff can't do a good job. Charging like half price and then they do a crapy job putting it back together again. Glad you figured out how to bypass all that and refurbish it yourself.
Some questions and/or suggestions. Many companies, make an electronic cleaner to spray down the contacts on the connectors and the contacts of the controller. (CRC QD Electronic Cleaner)(available at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, and Amazon etc.) is just one example. After the contacts are cleaned off and blown dry you can put some dielectric grease on all the contacts to reduce corrosion and help keep them waterproof.
The super glue you used seems to be just regular super glue which is very thin, like water. While that glue may keep the sticker on it will not do a great job on sealing moisture from leaking under the sticker. Loctite sells an Ultra Gel Control Super Glue that is no drip or run, impact and water resistant, and flexible. If you put a bead all around the sticker and around the view screen and push buttons it would do a much better job keeping moisture, dust, and debris out of the controller. (available at Home Depot, Walmart, Amazon, and Walmart)
I was thinking the same thing as well as I didn’t see him put silicone around the new capacitors unless I missed it
Love the channel. I came to say the same thing about sealing up the display and buttons better to keep out the moisture. Also strongly agree that the new capacitors should really be supported for longevity. I've seen capacitors break loose over time in situations where the board is subjected to vibration and shock. All the best and really enjoying the content!
Your willingness and ability to learn new things is very impressive. It's also the hallmark of a successful self employed man.
Problem solved, customer taken care of. Simple motto for business, and for life. 💪👍🏼
Clint has done a few of you guys a big favor here in showing this. How many of your equipment dealers would want you to see these tips I wonder! LOL.
However, If any of you folks are planning to do work on electronics make sure, absolutely sure, that you buy solder, silicone and generally everything you may need and use, from an ELECTRONICS supplier.
There IS a BIG difference in solder and silicones for electronics as compared to standard plumbing solders and silicones. ALSO, never, ever use your breath to blow dust away from electronics connectors, your breath contains moisture,... 'nuff said?
I learned the hard way, and after some 40 years in the equipment business. I'm just trying to help you here. I am NOT being critical of Clint's work here, I am ( as I've said ) just trying to help some of you and steer you in the directions that may save you from getting a headache or two.
I have been an electronics troubleshooter all of my working life and have saved my companies hundreds of thousands of dollars. Skills like these are always highly sought after and in demand! I am now retired and just today fixed an IC board on an FDM printer!
Clinton, in the future you should remove the capacitor from the circuit before testing. It will give you a false reading if it is still connected to the circuit. Great job on the solder repair, looks like you’ve done this before…love your vids!
Yes I’ve learned that
@@C_CEQUIPMENT Out of interest and assuming they are not deep in a bin, did you test them when disconnected too? If so what was the value?
Clinton you did a great job diagnosing and repairing the problem. Very educational video. Thanks. The little 5 year girl Ava Rigney that was diagnosed with cancer had her 1st. Chemo treatment and it destroyed 60% of it. She is back to eating,her bodily functions is working again, and she is wanting to pray. Thanks to all the Prayers but Thank God.
Clint,
& have spent 70 years working in electronics, My only suggestion would be that you throw away that acid core solder. You need to be using rosin core solder. Nice Job.
Gary
In the beautiful Ozark Mountains of north West Arkansas
Agree from the flat farm land of Central Arkansas. I NEVER use acid core on anything. Solid with flux on plumbing, rosin core with Colophane flux on electronics.
Hi Mr C i have said it before on the comments but i will say it again my god you are impressive with the knowledge you have in your head thanks you for sharing
Greetings Clint I am an electronics guy who started my first job in a Radio-TV repair shop and then joined the USAF and later went to work for the military-industrial complex manufacturing sophisticated electronic equipment, satellite communications equipment mostly!
Usually, when you're checking capacitors it should be done out of the circuit because the circuits around them may affect the reading!
If you have good experience doing it your way and it works, so be it, but usually that's not the way it's done!
Those are electrolytic capacitors that's why there is a positive and negative connection, which are usually used in the power supply to filter the power so you have clean DC voltage!
AGAIN you guys' intuition and determination to get the job done as efficiently and economically as possible is a lesson to be learned by all in the trade! 👏🏽 👍🏼☺
Clint, a FYI, you should use a rosin core solder for electronics, never an acid core. The acid flux is too harsh for electronics.
Considering you're used to working on something much bigger, crazy how well that cleaned up. Imagine what you could do with cleaning up Kevin. Lol 😆
Great point!
What I always gonna kick your Out of this as a mechanic, There's so many different trades that you get involved in trying to make the machine work. You are a,welder, Diesel mechanic, Electronics mechanic, Paint, oil change technician, Hydraulic fluid technician, And a business owner!
Back in the early 80’s I used to repair modems using the same capacitor replacement. Note that in circuit the tester will read capacitors differently than out of circuit. Good video!
Thanks for being kind enough to share your knowledge, coming from a UK guy thats never had a JD anything...
You know your stuff Clint respect... The fix was easy but knowing what the problem was... Nice to see you went to a local "radio" shop, they know more about electronics or those things then the original engineers. They made their job out of their hobby. Top video!
You make all the repairs look so easy. Your experience really shows!👍😎
Isn't easy - when you know how!
You never fail to impress!
Thanks.
Great job Clint. I would recommend wearing a grounding strap, or standing on a grounding mat to eliminate any static electricity. One little jolt could fry the entire board.
Ha Ha, that's the way the world go's round Clint. I'm glad you got to know how to fix these magical boxes.
Free advice from a veteran Aerospace Engineer that has dealt with electrical components for many decades (through the phases from Vacuum Tubes, thru hole and now surface mount components). Even with "power off", those same capacitors have enough power stored to set up "decay" in the PCB components; it won't "fry" them immediately but down the road, they will begin to fail. My un-named multi $Billion Company learned the hard way ... we even took away "Solder Suckers" from our techs as it was doing the same thing via the internal springs ... letting loose "ESD" pulses. The answer is easy ... "ESD Wrist Straps" ... no matter the situation.
"Antistatic wrist straps are designed to prevent build-up of static electricity and safely ground operators who are working with ESD sensitive components, . Antistat's range of wrist straps are designed to be worn close to the skin establishing a path to ground."
So please use one when handling PCB's and components ... you can't really believe how little power can affect SMT components like this. You're welcome.
P.S. Poor design by JD on the cover ... would recommend using some foam tape ("weather striping") on the cover faces to prevent future ingress of water during life cycle.
Thanks for the advice -Kevin
Clint, I have been watching your channel for a few years. Today was one of the most interesting for me, being a guy with an electronics background. You really handled that job with a demonstrated expertise!
Damn Clint
You ain’t scared of anything are you????
My my !!! 😊
Hi Clint, another guy with 40+ years of board level maintenance under my belt. !-Never use Acid Core Solder, ALWAYS use some Rosin Core, that will avoid the acid destroying the board. Unsolder the caps for proper testing. Isopropyl Alcohol will remove flux after soldering is complete. I would have used some Silicone to put the switch board back, will hold really nice, plus add the waterproofing benefits that housing needs. Was there a new gasket applied when you replaced that module on the dozer? That Silicone would work there as well. Solder wick is OK, I prefer a good "SoldaPullit" unit to remove molten solder. Better is a vacuum heat unit, makes quick work in circuit board repair. I'm going to send you a care package of items, they will aid you in your next Board Level Adventure! Overall NICE JOB!
Very interesting video. Capacitors are your uncle’s best friend. Best quote yet, "I know just enough to be dangerous".
As Clint stated all 'electrolytic capacitors' have a finite lifespan and can eventually dry out inside, once dry they need replacing. But they need to be measured when out of the board, if they are still connected on the board, you'll not get a real reading. Also good advice for not buying cheap capacitors off the internet as quality and life-expectancy is really very poor on the cheap ones. Life expectancy of capacitors vary wildly with quality of manufacture, the design of the board and the environmental extremes they will work in (such as high and low temperatures)
As usual, Clinton comes through. Just a couple of points, not criticism just word of caution. When you get in that same position, remove the capacitor from the board, then test it. You can get a misread from the circuit, most likely from resistors can/does happen with other components. As you were told, within 10% of target ok, higher than, discard. You will read lots of different views on solder. Both acid and rosin (flux) cored can cause problems. Never use Lead free solder on old circuit boards, it can cause different problems. Finally, use thicker superglue, ask your local mom & pop store for the thicker type, it sticks to the plastic better and doesn't spread so much as the thin. Then use any bathroom sealant to seal up the bottom of case to prevent water ingress. Job Done. Hope that helps.Regards from UK.
I'd recommend being very picky about any sealant you use near electronics. Particularly "bathroom" types as they cure by the release of acetic acid (vinegar). That is really bad news for any electronics. The right sealants are readily available. I suspect that the bodges of sealant round those original capacitors are an indication that somebody has been in before you.
I do like the way you explain things.
Thanks for the video!
Very nice to support your local shop. Also nice to have a local shop !
The Electrical Engineer in me was impressed. Nice work! One suggestion get an ESD mat and grounding strap. Those old electronics cannot take much of an ESD event.
Testing capacitors can be effected by holding them or in circuit. Know what a new capacitor reads in circuit.
I appreciate how you take customer issues so seriously and follow through with excellent application of years of knowledge. On top of all that, I also appreciate you sharing your repairs. Thank you so much!
Good job on the Controller, Clinton. If you have trouble with electronic equipment the capacitors are a good place to start trouble shooting. There was a period of time when manufacturers focused on cheap & it was very common for capacitors to swell up & become dis-functional.
When I was looking after a fleet of junk I found that dielectric grease was my friend for protecting electrical junctions from moisture & rust!
Clint, you are the man! It is very rewarding to watch too simple things to save thousands of dollars. I really like watching Mrs.C’s videos.
Vets and dentist charge for their knowledge their time. Keep learning and save thousand.
Having been a retired automotive field tech, I always appreciate the deep dive diagnostics, especially system "ghost" codes. High end audio/electronic shops might have these (capacitors).
Little critters sure enjoy those warm electronics on a cold night.
You're a great diagnostician and really enjoy this side too.
To the guy that was at the auction with the dump trucks. Loved ur comment on the mack truck. The mack b models and the steelnose dms with the steel dash are the true macks. Learned to drive on a b model mack concrete truck and did drive a dm 600 steelnose with steel dash. Like all the big 22 inch steering wheels and and love all the macks with with the steel spoke wheels. No bud or aluminum wheels. As a kid best time was n that concrete truck with dad.
Great video Clinton, as always. I hope folks understand the tips and tricks you pass on have cost you countless thousands of dollars to learn.
Quality work as always.
Just imagine 6 miles in the bush working. Just because of two little....
-40 walking out. Rather have a older one rebuilt.
trying to watch your live at the same time.All kinds of great content ,thanks Clint
Way back in 1971, I worked in an oilfield wireline shop. We had issues with capacitors in some of our older equipment. In the 1960's the capacitors that were common were paper and aluminum foil construction. In Louisiana, it is very humid and the capacitors were shorting out because the paper (dialectic) part of the capacitor would break down in the humidity. Our circuit boards were fixed by installing electrolytic capacitors. It sounds like the exact same problem you are seeing. In fact, the old devices you removed even look like the old style capacitors we were replacing. It is amazing anyone would still be using the paper aluminum foil type of capacitor.
Probably because they are cheaper in the short haul.
Low bid. Everything by Deere is low bid.
It's like fixing an older tv
My only suggestion would be to seal the plastic cover as well. Maybe some self adhesive foam tape or something. Silicon would be a bugger for the next person having a go at fixing things. Most electronics die from leaky caps. They leak electrolyte like dry cell batterys! Nice work Clint. Cheers and G'day from Tasmania
Great video. That’s a big reason why I watch the channel. It’s because you share your knowledge. Some folks keep the knowledge to themselves for the power trip. Keep teaching there are people watching who value your knowledge.
i wish you would have tested the old ones after you took them out. Nice job
Same thought here. In circuit would read wonky. Need to test out of circuit.
Clint taking care of his customers again. Nice work.
For not being an electrician, I think you did a great job Clint! Thanks for sharing this video my friend, you made it look easy! All people have to do is watch Utube videos and learn, customer has to be satisfied when he comes back to pick up the dozer! It sure looks amazing Clint and Kevin’s awesome paint job! My oldest brother was a commercial AC engineer and he knows all about testing computer boards! Doesn’t do it anymore because he’s retired and has medical issues now! But if I need something I just call him! He’s always been one of those guys that takes things apart and studies them and usually fixes them! I’ve seen him tear down a starter when he was 19 years old and fix it! Thanks Clint! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸✌🏻✌🏻🙋🏼
Watching you work on this intricate parts reminds me of my 50+ year old son - how you both do it amazes me - control and determination to the max. Great work Mr C.
Wow I learned something new again. That's what I like about your videos. GOOD WORK!!
Clint given you are a business the things you share shows me you are a top shelf guy too. I would have no issues what so ever buying from you new or used!!!! I see comment here capacitors (and quite a few other components) are best tested out of circuit this is correct BUT it really does depend on the internal circuitry that can lead to confusing results IF your are not "an electronics" guy. When in doubt take them out!
Clint, you're awesome ,macanics like you are a rare breed.
Never need to amaze me. Your trouble shooting skills are great! Reason I like to watch.
Gotta love that Super Clean after spray cough....
Just a note.
For electronic soldering you should use 60-40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electronic Soldering.
Not acid core and flux, it will corrode over time causing a bad connection.
Also a 3 wire capacitor is two capacitors in one can.
Bet when you started your garage, that one day you didn't think you'd be a computer engineer as well. 😎 👍
Excellent job.
In today’s society we live in a throw away world. Most big companies would have scrapped that unit.
It is truly sad we forgot how to do jobs like this.
I dabble in electronics and it is very easy to do this repair. Just make sure you orientate the capacitor into the same position that you took it off.
These big companies don’t want people to do these repairs so they can sell you a new machines. Up to 20 years ago you could have taken this controller into an electrical repair shop and had this done. Not any more. There is a group of small business guys that have electrical repair shops fighting for the right to repair bill which in the senate right now so we can go ahead and repair these components for a fraction of what these giant corporations would normally charge the end user.
It is really sad that we got side lined by these big companies like John Deere, Apple products, Samsung, etc.
This is oddly fascinating, glad to see it work!
The best wholesale source for electronic components I'd DiGiKey.
I've been buying from them for decades.
Those caps are about 85 cents from them.
Clint should use 125 degree rated caps for outdoor equipment to handle summer temps that equipment will see.
I've 40 plus years as an electronics tech.
I like that you used star washers to get a good electrical connection, but something else we used star washers for at Ford Product Development, was to fix squeaky dash or trim panels. You put them between the panel and the bodywork, but you put one on the bolt/screw head side as well. Worked like magic to stop squeaks and rattles.
This is the same repair made to lots of older electronics. Jeeps with a 4.0L have an ECU which famously fails, and the fix is to replace all the electrolytic (can style) capacitors. I fixed a couple of those, and also a battery tender, all by replacing the capacitors. Good stuff.
Nice job Clint. You're finally in my wheelhouse!
That sponge on your soldering iron stand is to clean the tip. They work much better if you wet them and wring out the excess moisture, and THEN clean the oxide and burned flux off the tip.
As others have said, replace the capacitors with an equal or higher temperature rating without exceeding the physical size (looks like height is the limiting factor here). Replacing with the same capacitor (assuming you can still get them) will ensure you have that third stability leg ... and should last as long as the originals did. The NTE replacement parts will work, but I am unsure whether they have the same working temperature range the originals did ... BUT at least you know how to replace them if needed.
The silicon around the capacitors is indeed intended to reduce vibration ... and keeping the leads and circuit board from breaking. I'd clean the old stuff off and replace with a non-acidic RTV.
Thanks for bringing us all along ... I'm certainly not about to go into the heavy equipment repair/restoration business, but as I've said many times "Work fascinates me ... I could watch it for hours".
Regards,
R
Another quick tip with capacitors, the relief lines that are carved into the tops of the capacitor (to allow for expansion when they blow sometimes) if the tops of the capacitors are swollen or are raised that usually indicates a bad capacitor, I e seen them slightly bulged and we're bad, this is very common in flat screen TV'S that have the "click of death" cycling on and off, pull the power board and check for swollen capacitors, 90% of the time they're the culprit 👍
Thank you very much Clint for sharing this kind of knowledge, many would keep it to themselves by charging a lot for their repair! THANKS !
Back in my day, it was Radio Shack that had all the capsitors and so forth. Now, we have to get things online or drive into Houston.....I'll pass on that on. Lol😊
I repair those Sauer Danfoss MC300 transmission controls at ERD in Kernersville, NC. See our videos showing the dozer simulator used to test them. I've repaired ones in VERY bad shape. Excellent video! Great to see this dozer in action!
I had you guys repair a bunch for us until one of them did not work that was repaired, this is when I started messing with them
Awesome video Clint! I don’t know of anyone who figures out something like that and shares that information for free! You share so much information and knowledge it’s always appreciated and why we never miss a video from you guys! Way to go helping out the little guys like myself!Probably any electronic stuff that has capacitors would be worth trying that fix. I will definitely try that now if I run across a similar problem. We saw you guys out watching the helicopter near your shop today while we were heading home. Have a great day and thanks again!
You come out of the womb repairing stuff? You have two lifetimes of knowledge!!
I was taught a long time ago to use resin core solder on electronics, that acid core would corrode the connections. But maybe it doesn't matter actually. Not a criticism, just an observation. Other than that, I really really enjoy your videos. I feel like I'm there with you. Thank you for including me.
You passed on an excellent tip, however you should bone up on ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) protection. The best short tip I can give to anyone who is going to send the unit out for repair is to leave the circuit board in the case when sending it out. The last thing one wants to do is wander around with the circuit board in their hand and then put it into a plastic bag.
Fehler gefunden und beseitigt.🔧 Darum geht es. Gut gemacht. Top Video 👍( Bugs found and fixed.🔧 It's all about this. Well done. Top video 👍)
Great Job!!! I just repaired our dishwasher by replacing a cap on its board... Easy cheap fix that would've cost $200 for part + labor!!! Made my wife VERY happy ;-)
No replacement for experience. Your depth of knowledge continues to astound me!
A privilege to watch you work!
You’re a man of many talents Clinton. Why not have a go,what’s the worst thing that can happen? Well done!..🇦🇺🍺🍺
Clint It is important to get both the capacitance and the Voltage rating right when buying new capacitors. The Voltage should be equal to or higher than the marking on the old part. NEVER use a lower voltage rated part
Cheers Eric
Micro soldering hobbyist here . I work under microscope. Damn fine job .
There are UV cured / natural light cured sealants that allow for thermal conductivity you can use on repair areas to help guard agaist future corrosion.
" UV Mask " with a UV light . Takes 30 seconds to cure .
Love your videos
The placement of that unit fits into the 'designed to fail' category.
Great idea about supporting the local shop. 😊😊😊
Sadly Clint, I now remember you doing this before but completely forgot everything till you did it again. It is a great video and think if people just calm down, think things through, life will continue as our nation is under a bad administration and think oil instead of us, the people who placed them in office to help us maintain a normal to us now life. I am the chicken little and tend to throw my hands in the air till I just calm down and say hey,..... they still can't eat us.... can they??? LOL
I was taught to use rosin core solder on electronics, because the acid will eventually destroy the device. Acid core was to be used on sheet metal
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. No one ever know how inexpensive that is to fix.
The dozer whisper. Nice
Tres bien. moi meme j'ai ete electricien d'usine, étant retraité, je bricole encore beaucoup dans l'électronique et ce que vous avez fait là est très bien.
Je suis ravis de voir tout ce que vous faite, c'est super.
Ne changez rien a votre travail.
Nyssen Dominique, de Dinant Belgique.
Hey man that DeoxIT D5 spray electronic cleaner does miracles on electrical connections.
You cannot measure a capacitor value while it is still in the circuit. You have to remove the capacitors then measure them. use an esr meter to test in circuit.
Tehicly you can measure capacitor while it is in circuit, but will not get value of capacitor you will get total capacitance at that point in circuit.
I have done hundreds of capacitors in a certain industrial robots power supplies. They get hot and old and slowly fail. The supplies are over $1000 used and with over 800 robots running production that can become costly. One thing I would suggest Clint is to put some hot glue (or silicone) back around the replacement capacitors. Vibration and heat will over time crack the solder joints on the leads and make intermittent issues. That is why there was silicone around the old ones to begin with. Otherwise great job.
Clint I noticed when you were reinstalling the circuit board that you had not put silicone back around the capacitors. The silicone is there for vibration resistance. Under vibration, the tall capacitor will shake and fatigue the leads, causing them to break off between the circuit board and capacitor body. A little silicone will go along way to dampen the vibration, making it last a lot longer.
I know it's a open cab and all but dang that controller was crazy dirty wow great job thanks for showing us I'm sure you have pissed off alot of people that were way over charging people
Your skills at repairing EVERYTHING are truly amazing. Well done!
Awesome video!!! Love this kind of stuff. The white strip down the side of a capacitor is always the negative. Little tip keep the videos coming Mr. C have a blessed week. Seen you were using harbor freight tools mine mine mine!! Lol 😆🤣😭
I spent years in the electronics industry Electrolytic Capacitors do not last forever and do not like moisture at all
Great video. Did the same thing, different platform, on a 94 Ford Bronco. Replaced a resistor in the air bag control module. Cost me $6.00 . Had no choice, parts no longer available. Took 5 minutes.😂
Clint... invaluable knowledge bro. Thanks!!
Just all the more reason to buy your equipment and rely on your expertise.