As a kid I’ve watched my grandfather apply layers of shoe wax to the front of his shoe and rub it in over and over, as you have done here, hundreds of times in my life. Just sitting on the porch mirror shining his shoes. Noted he did this or gave a finishing buff polish Saturday evening so they were mirror shined for church the next day. Thank you, this brought back memories.
When in the army, you don’t have the privilege of a huge amount of time to do a full drill boot, so a huge amount of polish applied with two bare fingers, followed by a lick of the flame from a low flame blowtorch followed by a clean, damp sylvet cloth, using all four fingers and rubbing “rough”! Ten minutes a boot, job done Ash. Good video though, thanks!
All I've ever used to bull (mirror shine) boots/shoes is Kiwi Parade Gloss, a small dish of water and a good old fashioned yellow duster, that's what I was taught as a recruit in the Royal Marines and I'm sure you will agree that you'll be hard pressed to find a better mirror shine than the one seen on Royal Marines Parade Boots 👍
The “Black Art” of mirror shining black shoes. Nice pun. I wanted to mirror shine a new pair of Balmoral oxfords to wear with my tuxedo. I followed the directions in this video and was amazed at the results. The toe caps are so bright I can see my reflection. Thanks for the tutorial, Ash.
Lovely shine, sir 👍🏻 And you are absolutely right ! The first time I made a mirror shine I almost panicked because nothing happened. But I kept going and almost by magic it appeared before my eyes. A great feeling 👍🏻
A hack for mirror shining black shoes: Once a good mirror shine has been achieved, add 1-4 coats of Navy Blue Saphir Mirror Gloss. It gives a depth to the mirror shine that leaves it looking almost like patent leather. Incredibly good. I got this from a video by The Elegant Oxford. His profession and expertise is mirror shining shoes and doing patinas. He strips shoes with acetone and uses leather dye to patina permanently. I hear he charges about US$250.
The Birkdale is a wonderful shoe and I bought mine on your recommendation. Now I want a black pair lol. Thanks for the tips re bulling. Despite me serving three years I was taught to use a cloth and have to say the cotton makeup pad method is so much easier and quicker. Thanks for another fine video and love the blue work coat.
I served in the Dutch army with the Stoottroepen. We polished our shoes with Kiwi until you could comb your hair in them. (my sister always said, ah there's my brother again with his lacquer shoes) But we never got the reflection as with the British troops. Thanks for this video, another question answered. Once you've learned to polish your shoes in the army, you can still make a brick look good.
I suggest as the final touch to a perfect mirror (spit) shine a very gentle buff with a sheer nylon stocking. Taught to me , a 17 year old RCAF .recruit, (circa 1954) by a kindly older hand. I do that to this day
Lovely video. Two questions which have plagued me awhile. 1. How do you maintain/top up the toe shine after the first wear, and ensure a continued mirror shine and 2. Or are you supposed to remove everything and then redo the whole thing all over? If so, what's the best way to do this?
To maintain the shine, you simply apply another layer of polish to refresh the shine when needed. If you badly scuff the shoe, or hen the polish eventually builds up to the point it looks scruffy and uneven, then it would be best to remove the polish (using a polish removal fluid such as Saphir Reno Mat) and begin again. This sounds a pain, but once you have cracked the skill of applying a mirror shine, it actually become rather enjoyable.
Hi Ash - I like your channel, you cover a broad range of subjects such as watches, style, fragrance and sartorial matters. However, you really are the “go-to” guy for shoes!
Now I know how to do the mirror shine, thanks to you. I am looking forward to trying it on a pair of cap toe Oxfords that I just purchased on Ebay at a good discount. If I had only known so much of the information I have learned from the Chap's guide 30 years ago it would have been so helpful. I wore brown wing tip brogues as my dress shoes for years and had no idea they were not considered real dress shoes, but casual Derbys. Of course nobody told me. Oh well, ignorance is bliss so they say. 🙄Better to learn late than never.
Awesome tutorial. I learned the water shine when I was in the South Korean military with people shouting in my face the whole time. Probably one of the worst ways to learn anything but the skill definitely stuck around.
For the Danite, or rubber sole enthusiasts, Autoglym do a product called Rubber and Vinyl Care, its just the ticket for refreshing the blackness of the sole and arch area, and leaves a slight lustre.
I’ve got all the Saphir stuff and shoe trees, but have just moved house, so will use this video as it’s more down to earth and practical than watching Kirby Allison sitting at his desk in a suit to do this! Hugo Jacomet has a brilliant book on shoes that was released last year. I have one of the first 1000, but again, due to moving house, haven’t got it out yet. Thank you very much for this anyway 👍🏼
Outstanding Ash! Just ordered the cream and polish today. Although at one point it took me back to Lympston and bulling boots until 1 am with very heavy eyes, ready for them to be thrown out of a 3rd floor at 6.30am! Keep up the good work sir 👍
Indeed, my own military shoe polishing adventures forged my attitude towards the value of a shiny shoe in life. From one vet to another, thank you for your service sir. It’s not said enough, but your sacrifices are appreciated everyday.
I just got myself a pair of full brogue Church's however in dark brown. First I didn't know one should mirror shine brogues I thought only smooth toe caps. Interesting.
In my younger days I'd get a mirror shine on my loafers by melting the polish in a teaspoon and pouring iy over the shoe then buff it to an incredible shine.
Polish as far as the crease lines that are visible on the vamp from normal wear. Do not mirror shine over a crease, or the polish will simply flake away when the shoe flexes
@@TheChapsGuide thank you, although they're unworn as yet, so no flex lines so far (currently at the cobblers, having a thin rubber grip and protective matt applied over the the leather soles), will need to judge the flex point from an old pair. Have to say, I'm absolutely in love with them, the style is called Uniform Parade by Our Legacy
I would say it takes 25% of the time off the end result - but the quality of the shine is also improved, there is a depth that is achieved using the mirror shine that is not easily replicated with standard polish. But it is a luxury and not really needed if you are a minimalist.
I got mine from a small cobblers store on Lower Marsh Street in South London. £16 at the time (6-years ago). A bargain price as they were selling for £60 in other locations in the city.
Hello Ash, May I ask you a question? Once you have achieved a mirror shine and wear your shoes in the outside world, when it’s time to polish them again, do you need to start from scratch, or can you just buff up the toe cap to a mirror shine with a cloth?
No need to remove the wax to add leather conditioner, just apply over the top. However, if the wax is standing up well, there should be no reason to apply conditioner, as the wax will still be offering adequate protection to the leather.
Excellent video. Thank you. Different from the other mirror shine videos on YT. After dampening the applicator at the beginning of the shine, I don’t see you do it again. Is that correct? Do you use the same applicator throughout and never re-dampen it?
Not a good idea to mirror shine the shoe in areas where the leather will flex, as the polish will crack and flake away. Stick to the toe cap is my best advice.
My dad just bought a pair of Loake Epsom brown waxed shoes and other than trying them on in the shop, he's done nothing with them yet, would like some tips on caring for them. The chap in the shop suggests just cream. Would appreciate your opinion.
I know the Epsom shoes, a good, practical shoe with few frills and little decoration as I recall. I would advise shoe cream and wax polish as a standard regime, with occasional renovation applications to ensure the leather is well nourished. Should last for many years.
To maintain the shine, you simply apply another layer of polish to refresh the shine when needed. If you badly scuff the shoe, or hen the polish eventually builds up to the point it looks scruffy and uneven, then it would be best to remove the polish (using a polish removal fluid such as Saphir Reno Mat) and begin again. This sounds a pain, but once you have cracked the skill of applying a mirror shine, it actually become rather enjoyable.
Once a shoe has been bulled, its actually pretty easy to restore the finish even if most of the polish has been removed by say abrasion. The pores of the leather stay filled, and getting them filled is the hardest part when starting from scratch
Great video Ash. Question I have a pair of Allen Edmonds I bought on eBay and someone applied too much wax polish where the shoe flexes. What should I use to remove this excess polish? Thanks for your help. Cheers Ron
As a kid I’ve watched my grandfather apply layers of shoe wax to the front of his shoe and rub it in over and over, as you have done here, hundreds of times in my life. Just sitting on the porch mirror shining his shoes. Noted he did this or gave a finishing buff polish Saturday evening so they were mirror shined for church the next day. Thank you, this brought back memories.
When in the army, you don’t have the privilege of a huge amount of time to do a full drill boot, so a huge amount of polish applied with two bare fingers, followed by a lick of the flame from a low flame blowtorch followed by a clean, damp sylvet cloth, using all four fingers and rubbing “rough”! Ten minutes a boot, job done Ash. Good video though, thanks!
One of the most useful skills that they teach you in Army
That has got to be the most beautiful brougue shoe in Black - great way to shine
All I've ever used to bull (mirror shine) boots/shoes is Kiwi Parade Gloss, a small dish of water and a good old fashioned yellow duster, that's what I was taught as a recruit in the Royal Marines and I'm sure you will agree that you'll be hard pressed to find a better mirror shine than the one seen on Royal Marines Parade Boots 👍
Takes me back to my RAF days this 😂
Great video as always! 👍
The “Black Art” of mirror shining black shoes. Nice pun. I wanted to mirror shine a new pair of Balmoral oxfords to wear with my tuxedo. I followed the directions in this video and was amazed at the results. The toe caps are so bright I can see my reflection. Thanks for the tutorial, Ash.
Lovely shine, sir 👍🏻
And you are absolutely right ! The first time I made a mirror shine I almost panicked because nothing happened. But I kept going and almost by magic it appeared before my eyes. A great feeling 👍🏻
A hack for mirror shining black shoes: Once a good mirror shine has been achieved, add 1-4 coats of Navy Blue Saphir Mirror Gloss. It gives a depth to the mirror shine that leaves it looking almost like patent leather. Incredibly good.
I got this from a video by The Elegant Oxford. His profession and expertise is mirror shining shoes and doing patinas. He strips shoes with acetone and uses leather dye to patina permanently. I hear he charges about US$250.
You did a very nice job of demonstrating the proper technique of developing a mirror shine on a pair of shoes. Wear them well!
The Birkdale is a wonderful shoe and I bought mine on your recommendation. Now I want a black pair lol.
Thanks for the tips re bulling. Despite me serving three years I was taught to use a cloth and have to say the cotton makeup pad method is so much easier and quicker.
Thanks for another fine video and love the blue work coat.
They are a remarkably good shoe for the price.
Top 3 vid on CZcams on this subject -----> Very likely Top 2
I served in the Dutch army with the Stoottroepen. We polished our shoes with Kiwi until you could comb your hair in them. (my sister always said, ah there's my brother again with his lacquer shoes) But we never got the reflection as with the British troops. Thanks for this video, another question answered. Once you've learned to polish your shoes in the army, you can still make a brick look good.
Lovely video
I was first
Excellent video Ash I’ve always wondered how to achieve that level of shine, thank you
Excellent instructions!
I suggest as the final touch to a perfect mirror (spit) shine a very gentle buff with a sheer nylon stocking. Taught to me , a 17 year old RCAF .recruit, (circa 1954) by a kindly older hand. I do that to this day
That's a great idea!
Best channel on CZcams! 📺
Lovely video. Two questions which have plagued me awhile. 1. How do you maintain/top up the toe shine after the first wear, and ensure a continued mirror shine and 2. Or are you supposed to remove everything and then redo the whole thing all over? If so, what's the best way to do this?
To maintain the shine, you simply apply another layer of polish to refresh the shine when needed. If you badly scuff the shoe, or hen the polish eventually builds up to the point it looks scruffy and uneven, then it would be best to remove the polish (using a polish removal fluid such as Saphir Reno Mat) and begin again. This sounds a pain, but once you have cracked the skill of applying a mirror shine, it actually become rather enjoyable.
Excellent video ash. I'm off to clean my shoes
Hi Ash - I like your channel, you cover a broad range of subjects such as watches, style, fragrance and sartorial matters. However, you really are the “go-to” guy for shoes!
I appreciate that!
Now I know how to do the mirror shine, thanks to you. I am looking forward to trying it on a pair of cap toe Oxfords that I just purchased on Ebay at a good discount. If I had only known so much of the information I have learned from the Chap's guide 30 years ago it would have been so helpful. I wore brown wing tip brogues as my dress shoes for years and had no idea they were not considered real dress shoes, but casual Derbys. Of course nobody told me. Oh well, ignorance is bliss so they say. 🙄Better to learn late than never.
We are all on a learning journey.
Awesome tutorial. I learned the water shine when I was in the South Korean military with people shouting in my face the whole time. Probably one of the worst ways to learn anything but the skill definitely stuck around.
We could probably do with a bit more of that these days. Things are getting out of hand……..or am I just getting old?!
For the Danite, or rubber sole enthusiasts, Autoglym do a product called Rubber and Vinyl Care, its just the ticket for refreshing the blackness of the sole and arch area, and leaves a slight lustre.
Another brilliant video from the chap's guide.
You can also mirror shine the heel cap. It is stiff and rigid enough. I'm not sure it is worth it since it is not particularly visible.
I’ve got all the Saphir stuff and shoe trees, but have just moved house, so will use this video as it’s more down to earth and practical than watching Kirby Allison sitting at his desk in a suit to do this! Hugo Jacomet has a brilliant book on shoes that was released last year. I have one of the first 1000, but again, due to moving house, haven’t got it out yet. Thank you very much for this anyway 👍🏼
I like Kirby’s earlier content, but there was always a touch of the theatrical to his shoe polishing videos (and his desire to sell products).
Outstanding Ash! Just ordered the cream and polish today. Although at one point it took me back to Lympston and bulling boots until 1 am with very heavy eyes, ready for them to be thrown out of a 3rd floor at 6.30am! Keep up the good work sir 👍
Indeed, my own military shoe polishing adventures forged my attitude towards the value of a shiny shoe in life.
From one vet to another, thank you for your service sir. It’s not said enough, but your sacrifices are appreciated everyday.
@@TheChapsGuide you to sir, we are starting to become a forgotten breed!
I just got myself a pair of full brogue Church's however in dark brown. First I didn't know one should mirror shine brogues I thought only smooth toe caps. Interesting.
👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏❗️❗️❗️🇦🇹
Simple the best ! Thank you for all Videos!🇦🇹AUT
Excellent.
In my younger days I'd get a mirror shine on my loafers by melting the polish in a teaspoon and pouring iy over the shoe then buff it to an incredible shine.
Excellent 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
I love watching this video.
Can I ask shall I remove the factory coating on the new pair of shoes before I start applying anything on them?
I do not remove any coating from the factory, I begin my regime as they come from the box.
Thanks for uploading, how do you judge how high to go on the front of a pair of non capped derbys please?
Polish as far as the crease lines that are visible on the vamp from normal wear. Do not mirror shine over a crease, or the polish will simply flake away when the shoe flexes
@@TheChapsGuide thank you, although they're unworn as yet, so no flex lines so far (currently at the cobblers, having a thin rubber grip and protective matt applied over the the leather soles), will need to judge the flex point from an old pair. Have to say, I'm absolutely in love with them, the style is called Uniform Parade by Our Legacy
What is the difference, in time or results, between using only the wax for the mirror shine and using the actual mirror polish from Saphir?
I would say it takes 25% of the time off the end result - but the quality of the shine is also improved, there is a depth that is achieved using the mirror shine that is not easily replicated with standard polish. But it is a luxury and not really needed if you are a minimalist.
I love the big horse hair brush you use. Where can I get one? I can't find them online.
I got mine from a small cobblers store on Lower Marsh Street in South London. £16 at the time (6-years ago). A bargain price as they were selling for £60 in other locations in the city.
Hello Ash, May I ask you a question? Once you have achieved a mirror shine and wear your shoes in the outside world, when it’s time to polish them again, do you need to start from scratch, or can you just buff up the toe cap to a mirror shine with a cloth?
I usually just reapply a new veneer of polish to refresh the appearance, no need to start over under the polish is very tired or damaged.
How do you go about removing the old wax polish layer when you have to reapply renovateur days/weeks later?
No need to remove the wax to add leather conditioner, just apply over the top. However, if the wax is standing up well, there should be no reason to apply conditioner, as the wax will still be offering adequate protection to the leather.
Do you ever use a tooth brush or some thing else to remove excess polish form the holes in the brogueing?
No, the normal brushing process deals with that just fine.
Would the neutral coloured Mirror Gloss be okay to use?
It does work great on brown, but not quite so effective on black. It leaves a slight residue (like a dust).
Excellent video. Thank you. Different from the other mirror shine videos on YT. After dampening the applicator at the beginning of the shine, I don’t see you do it again. Is that correct?
Do you use the same applicator throughout and never re-dampen it?
I may add the odd spray of water to the pad or shoe if needed, but not always. Usually it is not required. Good luck.
The Chap's Guide Thank you!
How would you wear a pair of black brogues like that? Odd trousers only? Can it be worn with suits? Thanks.
I tend to wear these with grey flannel slacks, often with my navy blazer. But they could easily be worn with a suit in a less formal situation.
Can you mirror shine all over to a smooth shoe, the ones with no toe cap?
Not a good idea to mirror shine the shoe in areas where the leather will flex, as the polish will crack and flake away. Stick to the toe cap is my best advice.
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you sir.
My dad just bought a pair of Loake Epsom brown waxed shoes and other than trying them on in the shop, he's done nothing with them yet, would like some tips on caring for them. The chap in the shop suggests just cream. Would appreciate your opinion.
I know the Epsom shoes, a good, practical shoe with few frills and little decoration as I recall. I would advise shoe cream and wax polish as a standard regime, with occasional renovation applications to ensure the leather is well nourished. Should last for many years.
Thanks for the advice.
How about when you re-do them, Ash? Do you remove the old layers first?
Perhaps the answer to your question comes 2 entries below yours, as an answer to my question.
@@iansoutryer3189 Thanks 👍 (I didn’t read other comments this time)
But how are you going to maintain that mirror shine? Say, after the shoe has been worn several times?
To maintain the shine, you simply apply another layer of polish to refresh the shine when needed. If you badly scuff the shoe, or hen the polish eventually builds up to the point it looks scruffy and uneven, then it would be best to remove the polish (using a polish removal fluid such as Saphir Reno Mat) and begin again. This sounds a pain, but once you have cracked the skill of applying a mirror shine, it actually become rather enjoyable.
Best method is to ensure a junior NCO doesn’t launch them from a third floor window at 6am!
Once a shoe has been bulled, its actually pretty easy to restore the finish even if most of the polish has been removed by say abrasion. The pores of the leather stay filled, and getting them filled is the hardest part when starting from scratch
Great video Ash. Question I have a pair of Allen Edmonds I bought on eBay and someone applied too much wax polish where the shoe flexes. What should I use to remove this excess polish? Thanks for your help. Cheers Ron
Hi Ron, Saphir Reno Mat is designed for this very purpose and works a treat. I’ve demonstrated it on a few of my older shoecare videos. Good luck.
@@TheChapsGuide thanks! I will look them up.