I have a K1500 and a shop quoted me 160.00 labor to change the ball joints on one side with a failed safety inspection. The upper was bad and the rivets were a real PITA. I'm going to replace all the ball joints and axles once the weather gets warmer. People who make decent DIY videos are amazing because it allows more people to save their cash for other things.
Thank you sir!!! Wish i would have found this before three hours of busted knuckels and curse words lol your the only one i have found that shows what wanted keep up the great work!!!!!
TVWXMAN32 I would definitely pin to the top about the chisel though for the rivets. I tried grinding and that leaves the edges burred and make it harder to hammer out so you keep grinding down again and again. Also tried drilling and that's not great. Chisel is awesome and effortless. I was amazed how easy it cut them off and the joint will fall out by itself almost that way cause it don't leave the burs that snag the hole.
I have been looking for a video for exactly this purpose for awhile now. Thank you for taking the time to do this it is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Well done
I use my air chisel it makes quick work of those rivets then use it to separate the joint from the control arm, I understand a lot of people don't have a compressor but If you do any kind of DIY a compressor comes in handy and will pay for itself in the time and effort you save, i used to work with only hand tools when I was younger and as a result I have arthritis in my hands which is especially painful in the winter, they're not expensive but the tools can be depending.
Watching your video right now while doing it LOL just went to the alignment shop and discovered my driver side lower ball joint was severely bad thank you very much
Thanks Nathan. My bottom passenger ball joint just broke and I'm waiting for a tow now. I figured why not check a good clean video out to see how to replace it. "1993 shortie"
Just found your channel recently doing upper and lower control alarms basically rebuild the whole front end on a 2002 Chevy S 10 for my son‘s first truck so definitely video has came in great use and you do a great job at what you do sir thank you!! And I’m definitely a new👍💯
I gotta agree not may out there does this good on the how to so ill be defiantly saving this video to show to people who want to do balljoints themselves of they cant afford the shop charge very useful and correct matter of balljoint replacement and yes i am an ASE Certified technician who does care about great service and i do want to see my customers get the correct information and education on DIY instructions so amazing job man cutos!!!
This video saved me a lot of money (over a shop repair, $600 for one lower control arm ball joint!) and gave me the assurance of the steps needed to get the job done. I am very grateful to you Nathan, thank you! My suggestion is save yourself a lot of problems and just buy a lower control arm with the ball joint included. It's way cheaper to buy online then say AutoZone but AutoZone had it in stock and I was able to get my project underway rather then wait 2-7 days depending on who you order from. Using a grinder weakens the control arm and, while useful to know, is a quick and dirty method of repair. I tried your method here Nathan, and didn't like the grind method. Worked fine for the upper ball joint but the bottom was so bad I gave up and bought a new lwr control army assembly. FYI, if you remove and replace the entire lower control arm, it's has more steps than the top control arm for sure. BTW, '02 S10 4WD
Thank you for this! I've got to replace several things in the frontend of my 2002 S10 2wd and these are one of them. I know it will be different from your 4wd but this helps. I know the abs sensor is different, it's in the dust plate and not the hub, and of course I don't have an axle to remove. Also I understand that the ball joint on mine is pressed out and in. Hopefully I can find a "how to" on the rest of the things I need to change, maybe even a video on this for a 2wd S10. It's been a long time since I've done any frontend work, I needed a refresher course. My frontend parts aren't worn out completely and some parts have recently been replaced, but I don't like taking chances with the steering parts. I'm going to completely rebuild the frontend except the parts already replaced.and hopefully it will last until I'm gone for good! I'm 68 so..not looking for them to last a long time...
We're paddling the same canoe my friend ! I'll be 69 next week and this will be my "birthday present" LOL !! I just LOVE my little S10 ! I has been a GREAT little truck !! Even my wife loves it !!
Very nice how you used the grinder rather than beat it with a hammer and a sharp tool or air tool to get if off . good job on how you explain in detail the whole replacement. better than other videos on this that I have watched.
I always used a 1/8 drill bit to drill a he in each rivet then move up one size until the hole diameter is the same as the control arm then knock it out. That way it saves the control arm from damage from grinder or deformities. And yes i use a center punch before drilling. Always works great for removing rivets
A good chisel for use on steel is the easiest and best way. You lay it kind of flat and chisel the rivet top right off without doing anything at all to the arm. I've tried both ways. Just a good tip for next time. They cut off real easy that way. Just a few light taps with a small framing hammer on the chisel.
Best way to me to do the old rivets are with a good steel chisel. Will cut them easy and flush and better job than a grinder. And it'll cut them easier than you think
I replaced one side in my 2002 Chevy blazer today upper n lower n all I had was a dremel drill so more or less took me about 4 hours to do one side such a pain in the arse when out tonight n bought an angle grinder hopefully tommarrow is easier
I just replaced my hubs on both sides. Had a lot of trouble with the top caliper mounting bolt. I ended up jacking up the suspension enough that I could fit a socket with an extension.
I'm a big fan of not doing things twice or three times when I don't have to. When I did mine I replaced both balljoints, hub bearing, inner and outer tie rods. The parts aren't all that much and it saves me from having to go back in and doing it again.
how do you know when ball joints are shot? my 89 s-10 sqeeks when goes up and down/hits bumps.. and I steer right and left? is that ball joints? or something else? Thanks!!
Thanks boss, couldn't have done it without ya! 1 down, 1 to go. Just broke my 1/2 to 3/8ths drive tho, guess it's time to upgrade those wimpy 3/8ths sockets...
I'm doing a steering and suspension overhaul on a 1998 chevy s-10 blazer so it's all the same pretty much I replaced control arm bushings ball joints (upper and lower) tie rod ends (inner and outer) sway bar end links shocks idler arm pitman arm but it was all worth it because it drives much smoother now
@@FixingWithPassion I would but I don't have a camera nor the tools I'm doing the steering and suspension overhaul at my schools auto tech program and the reason why we have so many tools is because we get them 50% off because we are a constant customer and they will make a bunch of money of us over time I mean like I think we have 100,000 $ worth in tools in our tool room alone basically everything we have is snap on it's honestly like tool heaven every socket they make we have including 3/4 drive tools I don't personally care for snap on their nice but their over priced in my opinion I say a tool is a tool but if you get 50% off and you get the luxury of turning in old tools for brand new ones for free I'd say that's pretty good
Thanks, very helpful vids! I'm getting ready to do new upper control arm,up and low ball joints,hubs and tie rods on a 2000 Jimmy and your vids covered all the bases I wasn't sure about. Thanks again
Thank you for a great film. Does it matter if you place the attaching bolts upward or downward (around @19:15)? I put them first like you did (upward), but then changed on downward (so bolts go down, nuts on the bottom), bcs it says so in Haynes and I think I saw another film, when the bolts go downward. In e-manual they don't say directly, but on the scratch picture the bolts are going up. Seems like it is more safe when the bolts go downward. I would appreciate your opinion on this matter. 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier.
What an awesome video!! Thank you!! I learned so much and feel confident I can do it now!.. Do you have a video on the control arm bushings for the same truck??
I appreciate this video but the one thing I'd add that I did not see you do is to add some thread locker (red Lock-tight) to the threads of the nuts that hold the ball joint on. The nuts you used were not self tightening and you didn't even use lock washers.
Also people need to know that non greaseable ball joints if you buy this kind do not need a grease fitting or grease as it actually damages them. They have a synthetic type liner that lubricates it for life and the grease you may put in can actually damage the joint. They will last about as long as a regular one you have to grease and without having to grease it so to me that's all I'll buy. Also only get a good brand. Moog is the best most known brands the shops will suggest. But personally I've had awesome luck with reybestos pro grade and some of those come with polyurethane boots that won't rot easy like the regular rubber. You will hear a lot of mechanics and others talk bad about the non greaseable joints but you have to realize these guys are using a needle or other ways usually and putting grease in the joint before they install it which actually will reduce the life of the joint. So never grease a non greaseable joint. They come with all the lube they need for life period. Also never get the junk brand. And never hammer a joint in. They should always have a ball joint press used when replacing only the joint on the press fit that you normally see. Hammering joints in causes internal damage to the ball. Really unusual for joints to bolt on like this one here but some do.
Thank you sir for the tutorial on how to change my passenger side ball joint its making a noise and honestly its scary driving down the road with it making noise
Glad to see you took it slow and explained each step of the process. I hate when they speed up these types of repair videos 10 times and the guy looks like he's on speed. Good job man, thanks...
Excellent video! I was concerned about how to get the rivets off of my 93 Typhoon. Doing all ball joints and tie rods because the boots are torn. This was insanely helpful. Thank you....sub from me!
Great video! I'm chasing some clunking, squeaking and rattling noises and eliminating them one by one on my 2001 4WD Blazer 4.3 V6 LT. I've replaced the shocks, upper control arms and upper ball joints. Lower ball joints and new bump stops are next up to bat. I get a clunk when reversing out my driveway (def suspension and not transmission, that's got its own minor clunk), and some rattling when going over bumps. The shocks were first, which after I finished, let me hear some rattling that I hadn't heard before. I guess it was because the wheels were allowed more free range of motion. The upper control arm bushings were shot and the new control arms came with new upper ball joints. Fixing that killed the squeaks (sounded like an old car when I'd press down on the fenders), but still left that clunk and some minor rattles over bumps. What are the odds that the lower ball joints will fix both? I also get a clicking noise when braking into a right hand turn, and a light popping noise from right side during slow turns on inclines. Any help would be appreciated. I'm learning so much and your video was one of the most detailed on-point video I've come across. Absolutely great work man!
I have a K1500 and a shop quoted me 160.00 labor to change the ball joints on one side with a failed safety inspection. The upper was bad and the rivets were a real PITA. I'm going to replace all the ball joints and axles once the weather gets warmer. People who make decent DIY videos are amazing because it allows more people to save their cash for other things.
Thanks man! Let us know how it goes! Rivets ...ugh
I still cant even fathom who decided rivets were a good idea on ball joints.
I'm not hating but torquing everything is extremely important
Agree, especially when rust like to help ;)
$160 to replace a side that is cheap. Willing to pay $360 in Boston for one side. Done it twice before too.
Gotta say that this is one of the better vids ive seen. You didnt miss one step. Explained everything in a intelegent way. 👍👍👍👍
Cool man! I know these SUV's are coming back and people are restoring them!
But that break hose don't do what he did and let it hang other then that Yeah
That’s a kool trick using two wrenches to get more leverage removing bolts! Thanks!!!
It's a great way to break the jaw off the open end wrench and very dangerous.
Thank you for this video. I did this yesterday and could not get that damn ball joint out. The grinder did the trick. What a pain in the ass.
Right!!
Thank you sir!!! Wish i would have found this before three hours of busted knuckels and curse words lol your the only one i have found that shows what wanted keep up the great work!!!!!
Nice!!
I'm glad there's people like you that take the time to make these videos and help people out. Thanks!
Thanks.
TVWXMAN32 I would definitely pin to the top about the chisel though for the rivets. I tried grinding and that leaves the edges burred and make it harder to hammer out so you keep grinding down again and again. Also tried drilling and that's not great. Chisel is awesome and effortless. I was amazed how easy it cut them off and the joint will fall out by itself almost that way cause it don't leave the burs that snag the hole.
Yea hard lowers to take out. Glad I was able to help someone.
Yes thank you for you're video.
I have been looking for a video for exactly this purpose for awhile now. Thank you for taking the time to do this it is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Well done
Thanks and happy fixing!
Man, I love the old floor jack, I’ve never seen one like it , that’s really cool
I use my air chisel it makes quick work of those rivets then use it to separate the joint from the control arm, I understand a lot of people don't have a compressor but If you do any kind of DIY a compressor comes in handy and will pay for itself in the time and effort you save, i used to work with only hand tools when I was younger and as a result I have arthritis in my hands which is especially painful in the winter, they're not expensive but the tools can be depending.
You are so right!~!~!~~
Watching your video right now while doing it LOL just went to the alignment shop and discovered my driver side lower ball joint was severely bad thank you very much
Thanks Nathan. My bottom passenger ball joint just broke and I'm waiting for a tow now. I figured why not check a good clean video out to see how to replace it. "1993 shortie"
Hey Nathan, great job very informative and video editing was on point. Worried I had to grind and now I know.
Nice!!
Hey man, great job! Helped me a lot!
great video thanks for the help!
Thank you!!!! I needed this!!!
Just found your channel recently doing upper and lower control alarms basically rebuild the whole front end on a 2002 Chevy S 10 for my son‘s first truck so definitely video has came in great use and you do a great job at what you do sir thank you!! And I’m definitely a new👍💯
Very cool!
How's your son's truck doing
thank you this video helped me replace my upper ball joints. keep saving people time and money brother man
Hard work. Thanks.
Thank you sir!
excellent video thanks for posting
;))
Great video, Thanks! Exactly what I needed for a refresher course. S-10 = Jimmy.
Thanks! I just bought another one...god help me....lol
Excellent video. I have a GMC SONOMA 1998 Guessing about the same procedure, YOUR VIDEO WAS OUTSTANDING EXPLANATION AND TRAINING. THANK YOU
Thanks!~
You are a life saver, thank you!
LOL...Thanks!~
Awesome video, very helpful!
Cool!
I gotta agree not may out there does this good on the how to so ill be defiantly saving this video to show to people who want to do balljoints themselves of they cant afford the shop charge very useful and correct matter of balljoint replacement and yes i am an ASE Certified technician who does care about great service and i do want to see my customers get the correct information and education on DIY instructions so amazing job man cutos!!!
Great video. All around. Thanks
Nice!~
WOW....you made that look easy...okay not TOO easy but ...just floored...Thank you !
But at the end of the day...I was reminded I'm not at young as I use to be ;( haha
I've done em, and they're a pain. Good video, you get right to the point.
Great video you did a great job on that thanks for the Help
Nice!~
This video saved me a lot of money (over a shop repair, $600 for one lower control arm ball joint!) and gave me the assurance of the steps needed to get the job done. I am very grateful to you Nathan, thank you! My suggestion is save yourself a lot of problems and just buy a lower control arm with the ball joint included. It's way cheaper to buy online then say AutoZone but AutoZone had it in stock and I was able to get my project underway rather then wait 2-7 days depending on who you order from. Using a grinder weakens the control arm and, while useful to know, is a quick and dirty method of repair. I tried your method here Nathan, and didn't like the grind method. Worked fine for the upper ball joint but the bottom was so bad I gave up and bought a new lwr control army assembly. FYI, if you remove and replace the entire lower control arm, it's has more steps than the top control arm for sure. BTW, '02 S10 4WD
Thanks for good video, I own a 98 s10 and this is my project today.
Nice!
Thank you for this! I've got to replace several things in the frontend of my 2002 S10 2wd and these are one of them. I know it will be different from your 4wd but this helps. I know the abs sensor is different, it's in the dust plate and not the hub, and of course I don't have an axle to remove. Also I understand that the ball joint on mine is pressed out and in. Hopefully I can find a "how to" on the rest of the things I need to change, maybe even a video on this for a 2wd S10. It's been a long time since I've done any frontend work, I needed a refresher course.
My frontend parts aren't worn out completely and some parts have recently been replaced, but I don't like taking chances with the steering parts. I'm going to completely rebuild the frontend except the parts already replaced.and hopefully it will last until I'm gone for good! I'm 68 so..not looking for them to last a long time...
We're paddling the same canoe my friend ! I'll be 69 next week and this will be my "birthday present" LOL !! I just LOVE my little S10 ! I has been a GREAT little truck !! Even my wife loves it !!
Very nice how you used the grinder rather than beat it with a hammer and a sharp tool or air tool to get if off . good job on how you explain in detail the whole replacement. better than other videos on this that I have watched.
;D
I always used a 1/8 drill bit to drill a he in each rivet then move up one size until the hole diameter is the same as the control arm then knock it out. That way it saves the control arm from damage from grinder or deformities. And yes i use a center punch before drilling. Always works great for removing rivets
Thanks! Great to know.
A good chisel for use on steel is the easiest and best way. You lay it kind of flat and chisel the rivet top right off without doing anything at all to the arm. I've tried both ways. Just a good tip for next time. They cut off real easy that way. Just a few light taps with a small framing hammer on the chisel.
Dang that chisel idea is great!
steven wittbrodt didnt you mean to say “RIBITS”
How often do the upper and lower ball joints last on s10's,blazer or Jimmy's?
Best way to me to do the old rivets are with a good steel chisel. Will cut them easy and flush and better job than a grinder. And it'll cut them easier than you think
you mean a chisel or some kind of power tool?
Nice work amigo
Excellently done video
Nice!!!
Awesome video!!! iwas simply trying to beat the bottom ball joint off..
i wasnt aware that i had to take off the top oine first!!! thanks man!!!
Nice!
Nicely done
I replaced one side in my 2002 Chevy blazer today upper n lower n all I had was a dremel drill so more or less took me about 4 hours to do one side such a pain in the arse when out tonight n bought an angle grinder hopefully tommarrow is easier
Nice man! You can Do it!!
Thanks for the video. ✌️
Nice!
I just replaced my hubs on both sides. Had a lot of trouble with the top caliper mounting bolt. I ended up jacking up the suspension enough that I could fit a socket with an extension.
Great tip!
I'm a big fan of not doing things twice or three times when I don't have to. When I did mine I replaced both balljoints, hub bearing, inner and outer tie rods. The parts aren't all that much and it saves me from having to go back in and doing it again.
Right on man!
Grinder for the win!
Yea baby!~~~~
great work thank u sir
Thanks! Wishing you the Best!
good work , by a real mechanic.
Cool jack!
Great job thank you for video
Thanks for watching!
thanks for the video , very informative , i have a 94 S10 i am getting ready too do the lower ball joints ,
Happy Fixing!!
good guide, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I don't want to ever do that job again. My body says....No, no, no, no, no.....no.
Also, with some time and work, could those stock rivets be chiseled out?
Thanks good work I have to do the same thanks again
Happy Fixing!
Thanks Bud,great video!! You explained it very well and showed everything!! Awesome!!!
Muy bueno vídeo impecable gracias
how do you know when ball joints are shot? my 89 s-10 sqeeks when goes up and down/hits bumps.. and I steer right and left? is that ball joints? or something else? Thanks!!
thanks man like the video!!!
Thanks man! 272 views.....Epic....lol
Good video
Will this apply to an 2000 Chevy s10 2wheel drive those hub bearings don’t look like mine I have standard wheel bearings inside the rotor hmmm
Great, Great video thank you sir!
Nice!!
is the wheel turned to the right? maybe that would help with getting that top bolt off easeir giving enough space
Yea
Well done.
Thanks!
this helped me alot, thank you. btw, ive never seen a sledge hammer just break in half like that.
Thanks. Take your time and protect the axel end with castle nut at point where you beat it with a hammer.
It did help me out tho thank you
Word!~
Thank you!
Nice!
Thank you for posting this repair. Helped me a lot.
Nice!~
Gone give me that snik pick baby! lol
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks boss, couldn't have done it without ya! 1 down, 1 to go. Just broke my 1/2 to 3/8ths drive tho, guess it's time to upgrade those wimpy 3/8ths sockets...
Good deal. Hard rivets to bust out....ugh
Surprisingly mine was 4 bolts(ZR2), no rivets so I assume they had been done before but dam were they floppy.
Lucky Sucker! lol
I'm doing a steering and suspension overhaul on a 1998 chevy s-10 blazer so it's all the same pretty much I replaced control arm bushings ball joints (upper and lower) tie rod ends (inner and outer) sway bar end links shocks idler arm pitman arm but it was all worth it because it drives much smoother now
Nice...and safe also!~~
Maybe you should do a video! And get paid!~ ;)
@@FixingWithPassion I would but I don't have a camera nor the tools I'm doing the steering and suspension overhaul at my schools auto tech program and the reason why we have so many tools is because we get them 50% off because we are a constant customer and they will make a bunch of money of us over time I mean like I think we have 100,000 $ worth in tools in our tool room alone basically everything we have is snap on it's honestly like tool heaven every socket they make we have including 3/4 drive tools I don't personally care for snap on their nice but their over priced in my opinion I say a tool is a tool but if you get 50% off and you get the luxury of turning in old tools for brand new ones for free I'd say that's pretty good
That dang Cardinal.
It's tweeting !
Thanks, very helpful vids! I'm getting ready to do new upper control arm,up and low ball joints,hubs and tie rods on a 2000 Jimmy and your vids covered all the bases I wasn't sure about. Thanks again
That's alot of stuff , like brand new when done lol
How did dat work out for u cuz I wanna do mine myself
I have a 96' chevy s10 4x4... would this be about the same procedure?? Your truck looks a bit newer than mine..
I LOVE THAT 🤬 JACK 🤬 AWESOME JACK
Helpful
Good video. Showed everything without any extra crap to watch. What kind of camera are you using?
Thanks man! $40 JVC Everio. Hopefully I'll get to doing videos in a few days...Thanks for watching.
I have a 2000 Chevy s10 4x4, my question is do the ball joints have to be pressed in ? I noticed you didn’t do that.
Only factory ones get pressed using rivets. OEM comes with bolts/ nuts
Dang,
That upper would get changed too,
Already in there....😳
Word!
Great audio sound, great picture and thanks for taking the time to show the steps. Gonna do all mine now.
Nice!
Of course this is happening to me as I'm moving and buying a house haha and can't afford for a shop to do it haha
Thank you for a great film. Does it matter if you place the attaching bolts upward or downward (around @19:15)? I put them first like you did (upward), but then changed on downward (so bolts go down, nuts on the bottom), bcs it says so in Haynes and I think I saw another film, when the bolts go downward. In e-manual they don't say directly, but on the scratch picture the bolts are going up. Seems like it is more safe when the bolts go downward. I would appreciate your opinion on this matter. 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier.
You should support the caliper from the start with wire or a bungie cord, never by the hydraulic line. That can cause damage you don't want.
Yea good practices.
What year is that S-10? I see the big boot, is that a front wheel drive?
vice grip on that cotter pin would ease your pain! and ours!
So if I have to replace BOTH upper and lower ball joints which one should be done first?? Does it matter to make the whole process easier? Thanks!!
The one that makes you happy ;)
What an awesome video!! Thank you!! I learned so much and feel confident I can do it now!.. Do you have a video on the control arm bushings for the same truck??
can you show how to change a intake manifold gasket and fuel injector of a chevy s10 2.2l 1998 please
am swaping a motor in one lol
I appreciate this video but the one thing I'd add that I did not see you do is to add some thread locker (red Lock-tight) to the threads of the nuts that hold the ball joint on. The nuts you used were not self tightening and you didn't even use lock washers.
GoodOlJoe ....Yea, your are right. I did make sure they were tight. You'd think them nuts would be bigger. Will do that in my next video. Thanks.
no washers on the ball joint bolts (rivet replacements)?
Nope
You beat up that ratchet🤣
always wished they made them a bit bigger like the dodge dakota
Yet the dodges tend to break ball joints more than any other truck it seems
Also people need to know that non greaseable ball joints if you buy this kind do not need a grease fitting or grease as it actually damages them. They have a synthetic type liner that lubricates it for life and the grease you may put in can actually damage the joint. They will last about as long as a regular one you have to grease and without having to grease it so to me that's all I'll buy. Also only get a good brand. Moog is the best most known brands the shops will suggest. But personally I've had awesome luck with reybestos pro grade and some of those come with polyurethane boots that won't rot easy like the regular rubber. You will hear a lot of mechanics and others talk bad about the non greaseable joints but you have to realize these guys are using a needle or other ways usually and putting grease in the joint before they install it which actually will reduce the life of the joint. So never grease a non greaseable joint. They come with all the lube they need for life period. Also never get the junk brand. And never hammer a joint in. They should always have a ball joint press used when replacing only the joint on the press fit that you normally see. Hammering joints in causes internal damage to the ball. Really unusual for joints to bolt on like this one here but some do.
Brandon Bailey
A bolt in joint isn't unusual at all bud. I've never seen a ball joint that you can buy that WASN'T bolted in.
@@rameynoodles152 they are called press in ball joints and you use a press tool in order to get them in, Not all are bolted on.
Sean Ramey most require a press
im changing pads and rotors on my S10 and could not get the 18mm nut off. im going to try the double wrench method tomorrow
ok!
@@FixingWithPassion worked like a champ
Thank you sir for the tutorial on how to change my passenger side ball joint its making a noise and honestly its scary driving down the road with it making noise
O my!
@@FixingWithPassion yeah not good i kinda need the truck
Glad to see you took it slow and explained each step of the process. I hate when they speed up these types of repair videos 10 times and the guy looks like he's on speed. Good job man, thanks...
Good
This was awesome!. Thank you very well done.! Lots of work How long did it take to do one side?
Thanks! I'm still tired ....
Great video, always like those s10s/ Sonomas
Yea there nice rides. The even ride nice with bad shocks and struts...lol
Excellent video! I was concerned about how to get the rivets off of my 93 Typhoon. Doing all ball joints and tie rods because the boots are torn. This was insanely helpful. Thank you....sub from me!
Great!!
Holy floor jack.
1946
@@FixingWithPassion tried and true!
Great video! I'm chasing some clunking, squeaking and rattling noises and eliminating them one by one on my 2001 4WD Blazer 4.3 V6 LT. I've replaced the shocks, upper control arms and upper ball joints. Lower ball joints and new bump stops are next up to bat. I get a clunk when reversing out my driveway (def suspension and not transmission, that's got its own minor clunk), and some rattling when going over bumps. The shocks were first, which after I finished, let me hear some rattling that I hadn't heard before. I guess it was because the wheels were allowed more free range of motion. The upper control arm bushings were shot and the new control arms came with new upper ball joints. Fixing that killed the squeaks (sounded like an old car when I'd press down on the fenders), but still left that clunk and some minor rattles over bumps. What are the odds that the lower ball joints will fix both? I also get a clicking noise when braking into a right hand turn, and a light popping noise from right side during slow turns on inclines. Any help would be appreciated. I'm learning so much and your video was one of the most detailed on-point video I've come across. Absolutely great work man!
Do you have any idea how many miles this had, before the joint went bad?
156,000
Cold Chisel works amazing
Word!! ;)
Ahhh yea what I just posted then I see your post. I never seem to read them through first lol.
That’s a real good video man appreciate you putting it together for us I’m getting ready to do mine. Let’s me know what I got to look forward to👍
Nice!