I'm glad I didn't start parts cannon'ng my 94 f150. This absolutely fixed it. I disconnected the vac line off the EGR, plugged it and went for a drive. After about 5-10 minutes of cruising its like a whole different truck. No more surge, no more bucking, no hesitating. Thank you for this video!
My 02 was doing that exact thing. I unplugged it and put a screw in the end of the hose to stop it up and it ran like a brand new truck. Thank you s0o much. I bee fighting this for weeks. New plugs, new coil packs, new fuel injectors, and did nothing. Thank you very much...
I had this problem on my 5.0 turns out the major of it was causes by faulty spark plug wires. Replaced those and the it got way better. It's still kind of there but not as bad. I'll check this out also. I replaced the EGR also made it better. Will do the Distributor and restrictor plate. Thanks a bunch
@nassera7322 it turned out to be the ECM. There are lots of youtube videos explaining this. I got an OBD1 to start with and replaced the TPS along with soldering new resistors in my ECM. Problem fixed. I didn't have to use the restrictor plate. Best of luck
I had a buddy that bought that same setup truck with the 4.9 6 back in 95. He tore up 2 transmissions under warranty, but the engine was bulletproof. Those engines put out nearly as much torque as the 8s, of course less hps
Thank you so much for this video. My 88 4.9 f-150 was stumbling around 1900 rpm light acceleration. Replaced my o2 sensor as some of the wires were broken, did so many other things to no avail. Unplugged the vacuum line from my egr today after seeing this video and it is like a new truck! I was considering doing a v8 swap but now it’s so much better I may leave it alone.
Just started having this issue on my 94 i6 thought it was my rusty fuel filter, changed that and the bucking got worse. Thanks for the tips gonna check on all those things in the morning and get to making that restrictor plate👍🏽
Another great video. I also had owned a 1995 4.9 5 speed F-150. I did not have the problem you were having, lucky I guess. I did sell it to my brother and he sold it after a few years and it still was running strong. I now have a 2005 F-250 Super Duty 4x4 that will be the tow vehicle for my SN-95 budget race build. Thanks again for your videos!
Thank you! I’m going to be honest. I feel like my videos suck. 😂. So your compliment is very much appreciated. Sounds like you’ve got a good tow rig. In a few years I’ll have to find something to tow with myself. I really don’t want to tow with my f150. (Not enough room for the family and it’s geared too high,2.73). Guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. Thanks again!
@@HotRodsHowTos Keep at it and you will get more views because your info is good. There is a saying that each video is like a cup, the more you put out the more rain they will catch. Something like that, you get the idea. ;-)
Thanks bud saved me a lot of headaches I'm from Athens about 45 minutes or so west of Huntsville Myself but Thanks again great video do hope you make more have a good one.
Thanks man. Glad I could help. I’m in between Collinsville and Gadsden, so I’m not too far from you. I’ve got more videos coming. I’ve been extremely busy with work, but I’ve finally gotten caught up. So I should have some new videos soon.
Great video. Liked that you included part #'s since so many don't. I have a 1996 F150 4.9 Liter 5-Speed. I kind of suspect i might be having the same issue. Right now, the episode has been so few and far between that i haven't done anything about it. The symptom sounds the same though, under light acceleration (only time it happens though) it runs really rough, then goes away, and won't happen again for a long time. I kind of suspected maybe EGR valve acting up or whatever controls vacuum to it? Thing that annoys me these days is all the stories about CRAP parts right out of the box. Too much Chinese garbage and many mechanics on here saying they have quit buying aftermarket and will only use OEM because of it.
Thanks. Intermittent issues are the worst! And you’re right about aftermarket parts. Right now, my truck has developed a random miss/stumble at idle. (Not always, but most of the time). When I run a diagnostic check, it comes back as “Spark Output Wire Open”. So, I’ve either got: A) a short. (Which I doubt) B) weak signal from the PIP sensor in the distributor. (I replaced the distributor last year). C) Bad ignition Control Module (which was replaced 3 years ago)…. So is it something new, or garbage aftermarket parts that are beginning to fail? 🤷🏻♂️ Anyway, enough of my yammering. Good luck with your truck. I hope you figure it out.
I got a deluxe ultimate tip for the 4.9 fuel pump. One that will even allow you to use cheapo ones. I previously had an issue where you could only use motorcraft fuel pumps but not anymore. The fuel pressure is so high in these that it will blow the cap off the off brand FP modules causing the fuel pump motor to get dislodged internally. So you take wire or hose camping to reinforce the cap from ever blowing off. And you'll never go through multiple fuel pumps in a row wondering what the hell is wrong.
my truck has been jerking and bucking for 3 yearsive spent arounf 800.00 replaced everthing so il try this thank you no one here can check it or tell me anythin i havent done
My 92 flareside ford F-150 5.0 is doing the same thing but, I replaced EGR,iac, plugs, wires, pick up coil, coil msd, and some vacuum lines and canister still hasn't solved the issue any ideas
Hard to say. I’d run a diagnostic check to see if it’s throwing any codes. (It probably won’t, but ya never know). Someone else had commented and their situation sounded a lot like yours. He ended up having to replace the ECM to fix the issue. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck.
I have a 1989 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 4wd. Just today it started bucking at the light once I hit 30-35mph. I gave it more gas and it settled down but still bucking. I will try the EGR, I was thinking it needed a tune up or a transmission issue
$778… that’s an odd number 😂. I suspect some heavy negotiations were taking place lol. Sounds like you did good on both of them. I got mine in 2020 as well (October). Got it for $1600. It’s a turd, as you’ve seen in the video, but I think I did pretty good on it…. And I love it. So that helps a lot. 😂
I don’t know if this is also causes the truck to sometimes stall at a red light or stop and idles very poorly like it’s high revving to keep the truck running, any ideas on what it could be?
I think the first thing I’d do is check for vacuum leaks. Also check the Ford Truck forums. I did a quick Google search of the symptoms you described, and a lot of stuff popped up of people having the same problems. Keep searching, you’ll get it figured out. Good luck.
If you haven already, look at lupegalven’s comment and read through the replies. His issue ended up being the ecm. I’m beginning to wonder if the egr restrictor plate is just a bandaid for a bigger issue. You’re not the first person I’ve heard of with an egr delete, and still having this issue. My truck has recently developed a stumble at idle. Diagnostics say it’s “spark output wire open”. Research suggests it’s 1 of 3 things. 1) short in the spark output wire 2) bad PIP sensor in the distributor 3) faulty ECM. 🤷🏻♂️ who knows 😂 Thanks for commenting and good luck!
I don’t know your experience on Hondas but I got a 99 odyssey it does it but I did the spark plugs, transmission sensors, new transmission oil and o2 sensors…It also bucks when I try to accelerate and the air filter is new too, also the goes then hesitates then back to normal is it a transmission issue
Sorry, I don’t have any experience with those. But what you’re describing doesn’t sound like a transmission issue to me. It sounds more like an engine sensor. Like a throttle position sensor or mass airflow sensor…. Or maybe you’ve got a misfire. I know you changed plugs, but what about coils? Is it throwing any check engine codes? Again, I don’t have any experience with them. I’m just throwing some things out there. I wish I could tell you more.
@jca8586 Well I don't see how it would still have an 02 sensor code if you changed the 02 sensor. If you replaced them with a cheap ebay or Amazon sensor throw them in the trash and buy a Denso sensor. If not you need to check the plug for the 02 sensor make sure it's getting power and check the 02 sensor itself if it's working correctly there's youtube videos on how to all you need is a multimeter. The bank 1 02 sensor can make the car run bad. But before you do all that clear the codes and see if the code comes back, if you don't have a scan tool you can just unhook the battery. Don't go on a wild goose hunt focus on the code that it's giving you first.
Lol my honda accord randomly bucks like a horse or should i say once i hit the gas to take off,its like struggling to get up😢. My car is fast so im like wtf is going on😫😒😬,my mechanic says it could be i need to check the transmission fluid,but i also read it could be a clogged catalytic converter 😮
In my experience, when a catalytic converter gets clogged it smells like rotten eggs when it’s running. You should notice some sort of funky smell if it’s the cat. If the engine rpm’s come up, but the car isn’t accelerating like it should, it’s probably a transmission issue. Low fluid will cause that. When you check the fluid level, look at the color. It should be red. If it’s brown, you’ve got issues. I don’t know the fluid level check procedure on a Honda, so you’ll have to do a little research. On a domestic car you: 1) get the car up to operating temperature 2)) put the transmission in “drive” for a few seconds 3) put the transmission back in “park” and check the fluid level. FYI, running a transmission low of fluid can damage it. Hopefully everything is ok.
Hmmm. Odd that it’s only doing it when you shift into 2nd… I’m assuming it happens when you’re letting off of the clutch and getting back on the throttle? What happens when you leave from a dead stop? Is there any hesitation?
Same here I’ve got a 94 I6 he explained my issue exactly. I just rebuilt the engine new pistons cam lifters rockers bearings IAC TPS MAP knock sensor deleted EGR with a 1/4” pipe plug deleted the cat new exhaust new injectors new fuel filter and pump. It idles so quiet and smooth but when you come off idle it intermittently will stumble-stall-buck or shut off. I will not throw the towel in I’ve got many things I’m going to check test or replace. I’m amazed of the amount of people having the identical issues but no one nailing the problem down, this is a very evasive persistent gremlin.
@@dj6769 These things are built to eat up all your money, put a carburetor and HEI distributor, put the EFI where it belongs, a dumpster, all it does is have you chasing issues, the ECM itself was built to fail, capacitors leak out, often destroy the board, the caps in it have a 10 year life span.
I'm glad I didn't start parts cannon'ng my 94 f150. This absolutely fixed it. I disconnected the vac line off the EGR, plugged it and went for a drive. After about 5-10 minutes of cruising its like a whole different truck. No more surge, no more bucking, no hesitating. Thank you for this video!
Great to hear! Glad it took care of the problem!
Man you’re a life saver. I have this issue right now and guy told me I needed a tune up after it’s already been tuned.
Awesome man! Good luck!
My 02 was doing that exact thing. I unplugged it and put a screw in the end of the hose to stop it up and it ran like a brand new truck. Thank you s0o much. I bee fighting this for weeks. New plugs, new coil packs, new fuel injectors, and did nothing. Thank you very much...
Heck yeah man! Glad I could help.
I had this problem on my 5.0 turns out the major of it was causes by faulty spark plug wires. Replaced those and the it got way better. It's still kind of there but not as bad. I'll check this out also. I replaced the EGR also made it better. Will do the Distributor and restrictor plate. Thanks a bunch
I’d be interested to know if the restrictor plate works on the 5.0. If you don’t mind, let me know how it goes.
@@HotRodsHowTos For sure. it's still winter here so I probably wont get to it until March since I dont have a garage to work in.
Hello what happened please any update because my truck do the same what is in video
@nassera7322 it turned out to be the ECM. There are lots of youtube videos explaining this. I got an OBD1 to start with and replaced the TPS along with soldering new resistors in my ECM. Problem fixed. I didn't have to use the restrictor plate. Best of luck
@@lupegalvan9993I can't believe you followed through on your reply 5 months later ❤ good on you homie
I had a buddy that bought that same setup truck with the 4.9 6 back in 95. He tore up 2 transmissions under warranty, but the engine was bulletproof. Those engines put out nearly as much torque as the 8s, of course less hps
Thank you so much for this video. My 88 4.9 f-150 was stumbling around 1900 rpm light acceleration. Replaced my o2 sensor as some of the wires were broken, did so many other things to no avail. Unplugged the vacuum line from my egr today after seeing this video and it is like a new truck! I was considering doing a v8 swap but now it’s so much better I may leave it alone.
That’s great to hear man! I’m glad you got some use out of the video.
Just got mine a 4.9l automatic a little under a yr for 1500 with 150k miles thank you for all that you do
Awesome man. Sounds like you got a great deal! Thanks for commenting.
I'm so glad I found this video. I was wondering if I had gotten rusty at driving a stick.
😂
Just started having this issue on my 94 i6 thought it was my rusty fuel filter, changed that and the bucking got worse. Thanks for the tips gonna check on all those things in the morning and get to making that restrictor plate👍🏽
Awesome. Good luck
Another great video. I also had owned a 1995 4.9 5 speed F-150. I did not have the problem you were having, lucky I guess. I did sell it to my brother and he sold it after a few years and it still was running strong. I now have a 2005 F-250 Super Duty 4x4 that will be the tow vehicle for my SN-95 budget race build. Thanks again for your videos!
Thank you! I’m going to be honest. I feel like my videos suck. 😂. So your compliment is very much appreciated.
Sounds like you’ve got a good tow rig. In a few years I’ll have to find something to tow with myself. I really don’t want to tow with my f150. (Not enough room for the family and it’s geared too high,2.73). Guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Thanks again!
@@HotRodsHowTos Keep at it and you will get more views because your info is good. There is a saying that each video is like a cup, the more you put out the more rain they will catch. Something like that, you get the idea. ;-)
I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks!
Great video. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Thanks bud saved me a lot of headaches I'm from Athens about 45 minutes or so west of Huntsville Myself but Thanks again great video do hope you make more have a good one.
Thanks man. Glad I could help. I’m in between Collinsville and Gadsden, so I’m not too far from you. I’ve got more videos coming. I’ve been extremely busy with work, but I’ve finally gotten caught up. So I should have some new videos soon.
The best part for me was the tape method over the check engine 👌
It’s a highly effective method 😂
Great video. Liked that you included part #'s since so many don't. I have a 1996 F150 4.9 Liter 5-Speed. I kind of suspect i might be having the same issue. Right now, the episode has been so few and far between that i haven't done anything about it. The symptom sounds the same though, under light acceleration (only time it happens though) it runs really rough, then goes away, and won't happen again for a long time. I kind of suspected maybe EGR valve acting up or whatever controls vacuum to it? Thing that annoys me these days is all the stories about CRAP parts right out of the box. Too much Chinese garbage and many mechanics on here saying they have quit buying aftermarket and will only use OEM because of it.
Thanks.
Intermittent issues are the worst! And you’re right about aftermarket parts. Right now, my truck has developed a random miss/stumble at idle. (Not always, but most of the time). When I run a diagnostic check, it comes back as “Spark Output Wire Open”. So, I’ve either got:
A) a short. (Which I doubt)
B) weak signal from the PIP sensor in the distributor. (I replaced the distributor last year).
C) Bad ignition Control Module (which was replaced 3 years ago)….
So is it something new, or garbage aftermarket parts that are beginning to fail? 🤷🏻♂️
Anyway, enough of my yammering. Good luck with your truck. I hope you figure it out.
Thank you so much, I've got a 91 i6 that bucks, many parts changed, still bucking now I can buy some more parts😮
Good luck man. Hope you get it fixed.
I got a deluxe ultimate tip for the 4.9 fuel pump. One that will even allow you to use cheapo ones. I previously had an issue where you could only use motorcraft fuel pumps but not anymore. The fuel pressure is so high in these that it will blow the cap off the off brand FP modules causing the fuel pump motor to get dislodged internally. So you take wire or hose camping to reinforce the cap from ever blowing off. And you'll never go through multiple fuel pumps in a row wondering what the hell is wrong.
Thanks for the tip. I’m sure that’ll be on the list of things to fix soon. lol.
my truck has been jerking and bucking for 3 yearsive spent arounf 800.00 replaced everthing so il try this thank you no one here can check it or tell me anythin i havent done
Good luck! I hope it fixes your issue.
did this fix ur issue?
@@Nicktaylorfishing fixed mine
My 92 flareside ford F-150 5.0 is doing the same thing but, I replaced EGR,iac, plugs, wires, pick up coil, coil msd, and some vacuum lines and canister still hasn't solved the issue any ideas
Hard to say. I’d run a diagnostic check to see if it’s throwing any codes. (It probably won’t, but ya never know). Someone else had commented and their situation sounded a lot like yours. He ended up having to replace the ECM to fix the issue. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck.
I have a 1989 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 4wd. Just today it started bucking at the light once I hit 30-35mph. I gave it more gas and it settled down but still bucking. I will try the EGR, I was thinking it needed a tune up or a transmission issue
Hard to say, but it’s great place to start. Good luck!
I got my 1991 f150 4.9 for 778 bucks back in like 2012. And got my bronco 4.9 in the 2020's for 1,800 bucks
$778… that’s an odd number 😂. I suspect some heavy negotiations were taking place lol. Sounds like you did good on both of them. I got mine in 2020 as well (October). Got it for $1600. It’s a turd, as you’ve seen in the video, but I think I did pretty good on it…. And I love it. So that helps a lot. 😂
Thanks for sharing
After blocking the egr vacuum how long do you have to drive around before the bucking stop?
It would be immediate. If it still bucks after disconnecting the egr and blocking the vacuum line, you’ve got another issue.
I don’t know if this is also causes the truck to sometimes stall at a red light or stop and idles very poorly like it’s high revving to keep the truck running, any ideas on what it could be?
I think the first thing I’d do is check for vacuum leaks. Also check the Ford Truck forums. I did a quick Google search of the symptoms you described, and a lot of stuff popped up of people having the same problems. Keep searching, you’ll get it figured out. Good luck.
@@HotRodsHowTos yup just checked my truck last night and the egr pipe is broken
If you have any tips on this type of truck let me know please. I love old trucks like my pops and grand dad
I have this issue it just started and all my smog been ripped off, i got the egr blocked off, i just put new cap and roter plugs wires on it
If you haven already, look at lupegalven’s comment and read through the replies. His issue ended up being the ecm. I’m beginning to wonder if the egr restrictor plate is just a bandaid for a bigger issue. You’re not the first person I’ve heard of with an egr delete, and still having this issue. My truck has recently developed a stumble at idle. Diagnostics say it’s “spark output wire open”. Research suggests it’s 1 of 3 things.
1) short in the spark output wire
2) bad PIP sensor in the distributor
3) faulty ECM.
🤷🏻♂️ who knows 😂
Thanks for commenting and good luck!
I don’t know your experience on Hondas but I got a 99 odyssey it does it but I did the spark plugs, transmission sensors, new transmission oil and o2 sensors…It also bucks when I try to accelerate and the air filter is new too, also the goes then hesitates then back to normal is it a transmission issue
Sorry, I don’t have any experience with those. But what you’re describing doesn’t sound like a transmission issue to me. It sounds more like an engine sensor. Like a throttle position sensor or mass airflow sensor…. Or maybe you’ve got a misfire. I know you changed plugs, but what about coils? Is it throwing any check engine codes?
Again, I don’t have any experience with them. I’m just throwing some things out there. I wish I could tell you more.
I definitely appreciate it but have not changed those things you just named code is a p0135 but I definitely appreciate it
@jca8586 Well I don't see how it would still have an 02 sensor code if you changed the 02 sensor. If you replaced them with a cheap ebay or Amazon sensor throw them in the trash and buy a Denso sensor. If not you need to check the plug for the 02 sensor make sure it's getting power and check the 02 sensor itself if it's working correctly there's youtube videos on how to all you need is a multimeter. The bank 1 02 sensor can make the car run bad. But before you do all that clear the codes and see if the code comes back, if you don't have a scan tool you can just unhook the battery. Don't go on a wild goose hunt focus on the code that it's giving you first.
Lol my honda accord randomly bucks like a horse or should i say once i hit the gas to take off,its like struggling to get up😢. My car is fast so im like wtf is going on😫😒😬,my mechanic says it could be i need to check the transmission fluid,but i also read it could be a clogged catalytic converter 😮
In my experience, when a catalytic converter gets clogged it smells like rotten eggs when it’s running. You should notice some sort of funky smell if it’s the cat.
If the engine rpm’s come up, but the car isn’t accelerating like it should, it’s probably a transmission issue. Low fluid will cause that. When you check the fluid level, look at the color. It should be red. If it’s brown, you’ve got issues. I don’t know the fluid level check procedure on a Honda, so you’ll have to do a little research. On a domestic car you:
1) get the car up to operating temperature
2)) put the transmission in “drive” for a few seconds
3) put the transmission back in “park” and check the fluid level.
FYI, running a transmission low of fluid can damage it. Hopefully everything is ok.
My 95, i6 is doin the bucking like 80% of the time when i shift to second gear. Idk bout the egr bein a cause tho
Hmmm. Odd that it’s only doing it when you shift into 2nd…
I’m assuming it happens when you’re letting off of the clutch and getting back on the throttle?
What happens when you leave from a dead stop? Is there any hesitation?
Bad intake manifold
Can you be a little more specific?
The music is way to loud
I appreciate the feedback 👍🏻
What if I’m having this issue, but I have a full EGR delete
Can you describe what it’s doing? If I don’t know, maybe someone else can chime in.
Same here I’ve got a 94 I6 he explained my issue exactly. I just rebuilt the engine new pistons cam lifters rockers bearings IAC TPS MAP knock sensor deleted EGR with a 1/4” pipe plug deleted the cat new exhaust new injectors new fuel filter and pump. It idles so quiet and smooth but when you come off idle it intermittently will stumble-stall-buck or shut off. I will not throw the towel in I’ve got many things I’m going to check test or replace. I’m amazed of the amount of people having the identical issues but no one nailing the problem down, this is a very evasive persistent gremlin.
@@dj6769 These things are built to eat up all your money, put a carburetor and HEI distributor, put the EFI where it belongs, a dumpster, all it does is have you chasing issues, the ECM itself was built to fail, capacitors leak out, often destroy the board, the caps in it have a 10 year life span.
It’s your throttle position sensor then.