Regular Man Fits PL259 Coax Connectors
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2022
- Not all PL259s are the same. The newer designs are a superior design and accurate. Anyway, I nearly cock this up. Perhaps rate me out of 10! Callum.
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Finally, a solder demonstration for the rest of us. I love the fact you left in the frustrating parts. Thanks for that.
Yeah. I had to. Not fair otherwise. Helps "normals" work it out.
@@DXCommanderHQ I agree sir; one reason I love your content. I have watched a dozen or more people demonstrate how to put on power poles and they never have any trouble at all, just snip, clip, zip, and they're done. That never happened for me until I had done about 50 of them, and had figured out how I had to do them. But until then, between the snip and the zip there were a LOT of four letter words and curses on the mothers of those YT video creators. Based on your recommendation I am certainly going to try the M&P connectors. Please keep giving us this terrific and valuable content. (Hey, CZcams...are you listening?)
@@j.d.-alawyerexplains5064 Awe that's so nice of you to say!
I agree…. Nice comment
Us ole punks never lie. :)
Try adding flux paste on the center conductor before putting on the pin, I find it helps a lot to get solder trough that tiny hole as you say.
Yes, I need some flux for my 4 PL259s I do annually - thanks.
This is the win.
Flux paste is cheap. Those cold joints or fragile solder blobs are a PITA. Sometimes you can't put enough heat on without buggering something else up: additional flux helps marvelously with flow and "wetting". 👍
Another bonus of paste flux on wire going into a pin, especially if it's a close fit - the flux will act like grease holding the wires together while you put it together
I would certainly recommend one of those third-hand gizmos or carefully use a small bench vise while soldering. Makes the soldering portion sooooo much easier. 73, Bob WK2Y
AB4P - I'd use a small drill to enlarge the hole in the side of the conductor to allow better flow into it by the solder.
I used to live two miles away from an Amphenol plant. You could walk into the front office off the street and buy connectors by the truckload if you wanted. And they were dirt cheap. Even the silver plated PL259's with the Teflon center insulators were not that pricey. Ah, the good ole days....
Wow!
I suspect (no guarantee) that you should apply the iron on the opposite side to the hole, testing at the hole with the end of the solder, until it melts. Then the entire tube will be at/above soldering temperature. The inner pin will also be being heated, and when things are hot enough, the solder will wick in through the hole. (Pre tinning should not be necessary, though liquid flux can help.) Now remove the solder, then the iron, without rattling the connector. If you apply the iron at/near the hole, then, yes, the solder will melt, but lots of the nested pin/tube won't be hot enough to take solder, and you'll just be soldering near the hole, you'll remove the iron too soon, and solder won't get around very far between the pieces, and that stuff will suck heat from the hot part too fast, so you get rapid cooling that isn't uniform, which may cause the solder to crack inside, leading to a weak and resistive joint, especially when considering skin effect.
Says the guy with zero practical experience with these connectors.
I'm sure if I did 10 of these in a row, I'd be fine!
Not a terrible idea unless the insulation in the pl259 connector isn't Teflon.
Hi Callum brilliant video I am glad it's not just me that struggles sometimes with simple things. I put my sister to rest today then watching your video has made me smile.
Alan, sorry about your poor sister my old friend. Glad you are at least smiling for a bit..
@@DXCommanderHQ Thanks Callum I work in a church so mixed feelings privileged to be able to do all the work and place her in her final resting place. But very emotional yesterday. Then I watched your video massive distraction that was. A giggle and a smile.
We need to have a whip round for Callum and get him a couple of decent spanners! Nice vid. I much prefer this type of PL259. So much better than the old style type. Thanks, Mike.
Yes please! LOL!!
Yet another great video! Thanks for your input. I am in process of putting my shack together (have to wait for the budget to catch up). Based on your recommendation I got some of the M&P connectors and will be using the Ultraflex 10 for my UHF/VHF antenna run (DX Engineering DX 400Max for everything else). My Dad taught me to solder, he always used "No corrode" brand of paste flux to help the solder flow more easily. He would always remind me that heat rises and would have me use something to hold the coax, apply the flux, and place the soldering iron UNDER the wire and apply the solder to the top. When the wire comes up to the proper temperature it will be more evenly heated and the solder will flow more evenly, giving a better connection. The other thing he would tell me is that I can take the time to set up and do it right, or I can take the time to do it twice, or maybe even three times. Sometimes I'd hate it when he was right!
Haha
You really need to heat the part with the iron then add solder to the hole or anything else your trying to solder. When solder melts so does the flux which is absolutely needed to make a proper solder connection. Dabbing it on the iron and transferring to the part may stick it together but will NOT be a good "wetted" connection.
Absolutely! You need to bring all three items together simultaneously...the item to be soldered, the solder and the iron. You should NEVER carry solder on the iron across to the joint, because the flux will burn off on the iron and you'll be making a joint without any flux and that will mean that it won't be tinned properly and you'll get a bad joint that will probably fail and go high resistance in time. BTW, I am a fully qualified and radio, TV and electronics engineer and we were taught at college back in the day how to do it properly.
He wants a better soldering iron too. Some sort of chisel tip on an iron that doesn't go cold the moment you try an solder more than a 1/4W resistor makes the job a 5 second process.
Yes, I cringed when I saw the "soldering" :) Not even a "Regular Man" should solder that way. You can do better, Callum!
Terrible soldering technique. Never try to get solder on the tip then transfer to the components. Always heat the components then add the solder.
For a good joint; definitely use a good flux which will help the solder run through the pin (don't forget to clean it off with alchol on completion) Don't freehand ! use a clamp, any movement as the solder sets can lead to a poor/dry joint. Aim for a shiny silver looking finish (not a dull grey) Let the joint cool naturally, don't blow on it, don't wet your fingers and pinch to get that sizzle sound ! but most important dont move the joint as it sets !
Cal as of yesterday I've finally replaced all my long feeders and patch leads with M&P coax, a mix of Hyperflex and Ultraflex and the new Evolution plugs. So I've got fitting their plugs sorted, remove the pin from the last plastic ring Hold the coax in a small bench vice, a drop from the flux pen on the core wire, slip the pin on (hole at top) heat from below and feed 0.8mm solder into the hole,,,job done.
Yes you do need a clean cut and don't tin the inner or it wont slip into the pin
Flux pen... Copied!
I have installed a plethora of the old type and the new M&P connectors.
Personally, I use a small vise (Dremel owned for over 30years).
Makes everything stable and I can use both hands.
My vise comes out on field days as well, as it’s very portable and sturdy.
Stay safe my friend 73 Andre
I have done rather a lot of these so far and they are so entertainging to fit, as is watching Cal do it, go Cal go. But oh so satisfying afterwared, and always, always test it all afterwards with a mutlitmeter for continuity and shorts from center to braid. Oh and for me always use silicone grease, it all goes together so much easier.
Those M&P plugs are lovely. I took a gas iron to a campsite and fitted a couple whilst portable. If I can do it under canvass, anybody can do it in a workshop... I did actually cock it up the BNC plug and had to redo it when I got home :D
Thanks Nathan
You have big old hairy ones old friend, my old welding instructor used to have a touch of wobble to his hands and he was very self conscious of it so Bravo Sir and Thank you!
Thanks.
Great vid, I am glad I am not the only one stuffing up adding solder to the middle pin, which I would have to say would be the only flaw..
So far I have just tinned the center and seems to work for me..
I think you are right.. Also a small vice / third hand might be handy!
Hello Cal just found your video on fitting these M&P connectors and it was extremely helpful thank you and all the best 👍
No problem 👍
I like these new connectors. I can’t bear soldering the old style. Have gone to crimp ends lately but these waterproof ends look much better. I could literally feel your pain when the solder didn’t take. 73 from FN84.
Thanks Nigel
Just about to set up the same components, excellent, and very entertaining, thanks. Gary, MM3SCO
Thanks for introducing these (at least to me)! Fed up with the old-style PL-259, I've gone entirely to SMA - odd as that may sound. But I may revisit this down the road thanks to what you've demonstrated today.
Fair enough!
When I bought some of their N connectors I got the solder-less ones. They are well worth not having to deal with soldering those little pins.
Never used that type before...... may be willing to try it.
Using a flux pen with liquid flux will make your soldering much easier. They come in a marker style pen and you just dab it on where you want it. Highly recommend it.
OK!
That wasn't my aim. But the pliers are fab!
Thanks for another good video. I have an Elmer that has done my Coax connection, but I do need to do this stuff myself.
Go for it!
I have done the PL 259 dance here as well. I have gone from one that requires multiple solder joint to a crimp on with one point of solder. I have almost completely resolved dead shorts with this connector type. Great video with great insights. 73
Hopefully we all learned a wee bit :)
@@DXCommanderHQit has been said that the day you learn something new... after knowing everything ... that is when you education truly begins. You always provide great info... I always go back to you videos and videos of a couple of others when I am struggling with something Ham related. Blessings to you and your family. 73
Looks like a learning curve
I do the same thing with my reading glasses, dubbing them up for better magnification. So funny Calum.😄
The best!
Just built 6 of these M&P Evo 10M-S connectors today Callum on the M&P Airborn 10 ... used very thin solder. Held the pin in a vise and clamped the coax to the edge of the bench to keep all together. Then heated the tiny hole and moved slightly the iron away from the hole but still in contact and entered the hole with the thin solder and she melted lickety split. Using the clamps keeps both hands free of the cable/connector assembly. The connectors are really a fine piece of machining! Like little jewels actually. Also I have 4 which are near the AMP and tuner which have the optional heat sink on the rear of them to dissipate heat. The heat sink replaces the metal rear of the EVO connector. I think the wrenches you need are 18mm on the front and 17mm on the back. You HOLD the front steady and ONLY turn the back wrench. If you have the optional heat sink, those use a 19mm spanner. However, I used adjustable wrenches as I do not have mm spanners (yah I am in the USA mate got mm sockets but not spanners hi hi). Cheers... Nice stuff. Art. W1SWL
Hey Art. Yeah, I have one of their "heat" things too. Not used yet. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks Arthur for the excellent description of our "Jewels". I couldn't do any better... :)
The last batch of M&P PL259's I received from Martin Lynch were like the normal PL259 where the centre conductor passes through the pin and easier to solder at the tip as normal. Love M&P coax and connectors.
I like the through-pin..
Thanks John! Have you bought the connectors for Hyperflex 5 or Airborne 5 perhaps? Just the connectors for those two cables (in the range of 5.0 to 5.4 mm), have the old-fashioned "through pin". All the rest of UHF ones has turned into EVO with the rounded pin. Please let me know...
@@stefanomessi Ultraflex 10. I hope the others change the same way. So much easier than the small hole on the side.
@@johnharrison5703 Thanks for the prompt reply John. They must have been an old batch of the previous ones. (regular packaging and Connector M&P engraving right)? Just take some practice and you shall see it's easier and cleaner than before. Callum did it all right, save not using the M&P-Flux, or other Quality Flux products.
@@stefanomessi yes M&P Etched on the body and proper packaging. I buy mine from official M&P supplier here in the UK.
Great Video! They're superb connectors. Callum, one suggestion, have a go at heating the tube sid. Place the plug inverted in a small vice try to place something in the vice so the steel does not steal the heat away. Some teflon or fibreglass pads or even some resin cloth. Heat the tube and fill it with solder (not fill but get some in there) leave the wire untinned. Put flux on the wire side which wont affect is diameter. Heat the tube from the outside and slip the wire into the tube whilst the solder is boiling. No need to use that little hole to fill them. It will be a good solid permanent connection. Sorry if someone has already said this. Adam VK2PW
Good advice!
This method works SUPERBLY! I just used a small cut of a 2x4 and drilled a 1/8" hole to hold the pin.
I drill out the tiny hole in the centre conductor, a bit use flux makes the solder flow, and it's done. Great video as always
Cool, thanks
I think if the center conductor went all the way through like the old kind it would be so much better
I wish this video had existed before I tried awkwardly watching the official howto video with the guys that put up my antenna. Awesome content as per usual!
I did this badly!
@@DXCommanderHQ 10x easier to understand how it goes together though! (and not as bad as mine!) :))
Tin both parts, the pin and centre core then heat the centre pin and push together. Then use some pliers on the centre pin to cool it so it doesn't fall of as it is still hot. I do this on N types but not so much on the pl259 compression fittings. Cheers VK3DJC
What they said about soldering 👍. But also use a mini vice / third hand or some such to hold the cable firmly. Then it doesn’t flop about all over the place and you can use both hands to control the soldering iron and feed the solder. It will make the job so much easier.
After much googling i found this company by accident. I just bought 10 of these and 10 BNC Plugs from them. And then your video pops up in my feed. I should have just saved time and looked at your channel.
Brilliant!
Love your attitude. ❤🙂
Wow love those channel lock plyers
These are the best plugs by far, I’ve now bought loads of them for my shack. If finding the soldering hole too small (as sometimes they do vary in size) I use a tiny drill bit on a dremmel and just make the hole a little bit bigger. Like you I wear glasses when doing close work/reading so find the hole just a little too small. At the end of the day this is something that could be put right at M&P quite easily but until they put a slightly bigger drill bit in their machine then I guess it’s down to us.
Nice explanation Callum, keep up the good work and if my shacks back together by the 13th I’ll listen out and give you a call.
73 de MW6PNW. Paul
Hey Paul, yeah listen out for us!
I have been told about the small hole complaints and frankly speaking the aimed use of the flux is something that has solved the task perfectly. Just imagine in our lab how much soldering we do daily! In any case, I have asked to bring the dimension of the hole to the same size as the "N" connector's pin. You must be really a skilled man to use a tiny drill bit to enlarge the tiny hole. The Hams always succeed in impressing me with their passion and creativity.
Fitted 2 today. They are very good...
Informative and entertaining as always. I see so much of my project work in yours. I never have all the tools I need handy and usually one thing will go horribly wrong that needs to be fixed... with a tool not handy. I use a disposable pan to work in for projects with small parts because I'm guaranteed to drop two or three small screws etc. I need to get a few of these connectors. Thanks as always. Jack K5FIT
HAHA!
At 11:50 I think the phrase rhymes with "clucking bell". I love these connectors - what I have also done is "pre-fill" the copper tip with solder - then reheat (melt) it again and shove in the centre - but then I only use one pair of glasses - so maybe that is a rubbish idea.
Haha Tom!
Thanks Tom
Since you asked, the only suggestion I'd have is to not pre-tin the coax inner, then get a good bit of flux in the hole, and use LOADS of heat from the iron. As much as you can. Quicker you get the job done, less chance of melting the plastic bits on the connector.
I have since found a massive iron.. I also need flux pen. Next time..
Flux & pretin the very end b4 even cutting insulation 😉then flux the pin b4 installing on Cntr conductor. Flux is your friend when soldering, it helps transfer the heat from iron to wire& pin 😉😉see if you can locate amtec 559 low viscosity flux. That stuff is better then Franks red hot sauce, it’s tacky but cleans easy with alcohol but it’s not necessary to clean unless it’s on pc board
Yes definitely the Pro Flux, (no clean ones), along with a vice and a pro welder soldering tip , is the right answer for a quick and reliable work.
hello Callum, i also tin the center wire, but i found drilling out the very small contact hole by another 1.1 mm give you a better attach for the solder, these connectors are very good for ultraflex 7, , you can heat up the brass connectors and shake off any excess solder if you don't get a real connection first time. I'm a retired heat eng so i love to solder hi hi, well done on a good video honestly done.. GW4
Yeah.. Good point.. I've stopped filming and soldering.. Instead I go and use the vice down the other end of the workshop.. Lots easier!
The M&P PL259s are excelent and the old ones rather Wank, to say the least. I would use liguid flux for the center cable, the finest solder you can get and a small clamp or vice to hold it. I use silicone grease on the braid it totally prevents water ingress and oxidation of the copper cable.
If you are felling heroic try doing the same with silver solder, technically superior but an absolute mare to work with. I used to use it a lot but it is really hard work, it does not flow well.
Yes, I think I'm missing the flux tip. Thanks.
@@DXCommanderHQ Hi Callum. Yes definitely you need to use a flux which will tremendously facilitate the soldering process. We also offer for those who make just a few soldering in a row a tiny 2 cc M&P-Flux, that will make everything a lot easier (following our advice and related video).. I want to send you some of those for your earliest convenience.
Thanks Dave
This was like watching an engineer change a light bulb...trying to turn the room around. Always...always stabilize the wires your soldering. Use left and right hand to hold the iron and solder. Hold the iron on one side of the bond and the solder on the other side of the bond...let the solder flow toward the heat of the iron. ;)
Yeah.. I can promise you it's a heck of a lot easier if you don't film!
I just finished up installing about 10 M & P connectors(both N and PL259) to some M & P Hyperflex 13 and some DX Engineering DX 400 MAX (closer to hyperflex 10 ...without the flex). After installing the metal "T" washer between the shield and braid, trimming the Braid, Foil, and dielectric center and center conductor and installing the plastic flat washer, I apply a bit of paste flux either using a screwdriver or a zip tie cut off as an applicator, or just poke the tip of the wire into the paste. It doesn't require much. When placing the tip, whichever type, before hand, if you look very closely at the tiny hole, you will see s slit going from the hole to the end where you insert the wire. Take your razor knife and carefully slide it into that slit to expand it a bit. There's another on the opposite side, do the same there as well. Just keep your fingers the hell out of the way. Then slide the pin onto the wire. I set the coax on top of a spool of wire and put my wrist on top of the coax so it weren't goin nowhere! held the solder in the hand atop the coax and the soldering iron in the other. I put some solder on the tip of the iron, held it on the top hole . As things heated up I applied more solder and the flux caused it to flow into the hole and on the wire more easily, making a better connection. Hope that helps.
The compression connectors are the best. Good Call.
I like the idea of the vssoline, thanks for the tip.
No problem!
Hi Callum, Thanks for another honest excellent video. I love the huge wrench you drag out. It brings a little humour into a rather serious world. A little hint re soldering that took me a while to learn. Flux is your friend it helps spread the heat from your iron to your work. Spread a lump of butter onto cold toast thats like no flux. Try it again with hot toast and you get everything flowing really easily. Also apply the solder to the work and the iron at the same time . Just try it. Please keep these types of videos (honest) coming.
73 Owen from Down Under.
Yes.. Flux is key. So is NOT filming when trying to do stuff!
tip for you Cal on soldering the M&P plugs, a aldi/lidl desk vice to hold the cable, and a fine point soldering iron works wonders with the M&P evolution plugs, i have soldered a dozen on in my setup with my Ultraflex 10 2 S points better on RX , no more pl259s for me :) bonus tip with the evolution plugs and the vice holding the cable at a slight downward (very slight)angle no need to tin the inner ,just push the centre on line up the hole uppermost and use the fine tip soldering iron/solder and it will run ok, and yes the hole is bloody small :)
Yeah, I considered using the vice but I couldn't be bothered moving all the cameras and audio down to the dirty end of the shop!
No substitute for quality connectors no matter which assembly style you like. I go for soldered center pins and crimped shield connections myself, but then I'm also mostly BNCs at this point.
BNCs.. OK Matt!
Flux has been mentioned but you can just tin the centre core tip before inserting into the body. Then it's very easy to solder. Also when soldering have the tip on a slant towards the floor so the solder doesn't run up the tip too much. Love the M&P gear. Best connectors and leading quality coax.
Great tip!
M&P are the best - I always use their coax and connectors. I never use PL-259 now - I use N Type and use an adaptor when needed - gives me more flexibility when changing around radios or antennas.
Hi Callum, I'm fitting some of the 10.3mm Sahara coax with those modern PL-259s later, my only issue is, I was told 'never ever' blow moist breath onto drying solder.
I use good quality flux on the center and then solder through the hole
Clamp the cable in something like a vise or "third hand" to free up your hands to heat the connection while you add solder to that connection at the HOLE.
Can't believe he couldn't figure that out for himself
I really wanted to use the vice but then I would have to move the bloomin cameras!
OMG! This a text book example of how NOT to solder. Always heat the work and use the work to melt the solder. You can tin the iron with a little extra solder on the tip. That helps with heat transfer. You might even add a bit of solder at the junction between the tip and work, again to aid heat transfer. Once the metal is hot enough, the solder will flow freely and wets the junction of the two metals.
Callum, invest in a set of helping hands, those are the alligator clip holders that could hold the tip in clip and the coax in the other. That leaves your hands free to hold the soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other. With a properly cleaned and tinned soldering iron and the right technique, this would be easy.
Indeed!
it is esear if you add flux and solder inside the hole and flux on the center conductor and heat everyting up and bind it togheter
I usually cut a short length of fine solder and drop it into the conductor hole flush with the top, then grip the white spacer in clips/vice approach with the wire to the hole and apply heat to the outer of the tube. when up to temperature the solder will melt with its flux and allow the wire to enter, remove the heat and hold your breath till it cools, job done.
That's a great idea!
Back in the Australian CB boom I soldered hundreds of thousands of those old connectors to CB leads. I got up speed and could do 110-120 per hour. Lasr week without the tools I used to have it took me almost half an hour do one. !!!!
Practice makes perfect!
looks great alot easier to install i have ordered 10 of them from messi and paoloni. plus some other things
I find tinning the center conductor of the plug, not the coax, easier. Heat up the center connector and let the solder wick itself in the hole but not too much or the coax center conductor will displace the solder when inserted or could push air in and that can push solder out (if the tip isn't ventilated).
When you push the center conductor of the coax into your connector, just heat up that center area where the center conductor is to go and when the solder melts the center conductor drops right in ☺️
I use locking pliers to hold my connectors while I solder -- doesn't move and protects my dainty fingers from getting burned 😁
Good tip!
I always tin but I’m on the old type PL259’s. Just makes it easier. Wow at the size of the adjustable. I say if it works use any tool you have to hand. 73 🤙🤙🤙
Good tip!
I just replaced my HF base station coax with M&P hyperflex 13. Yes, I know that is overkill, but ok. The process has made me become an M&P fan for sure!!
The connectors and the coax are next level. Here are a couple of my tips and findings.
The M&P scissors are worth the money. Speaking of the M&P scissors....um holy bleep they are sharp. I ran around with them in the backyard for hours to test them.... conclusion ...very pointy.
Great idea using the razor vs the scissors for the inner insulator. makes for a much cleaner connection.
Tinning is not required and not recommended by messi. I thought about it (seems logical) but differed to messi's experience over mine.
Messi says on the hyperflex 13 instruction video - "If you prefer you can avoid to solder, tightening the core thanks to its flexible fins' I believe messi is saying soldering is not required but recommended?? The core I assume is the connector housing that screws on and the flexible pin is the gold center pin (with solder hole). So the housing will hold it in place and remain flexible. I emailed messi for clarification.
Also, the core material the pin mount too is better a little short than too long. too long can result in poor performance and is indicated by the center pin not resting against the plastic washer/insulator.
Great video!! Thanks again.
Yes, that Hyperflex 13 looks fabulous.. Certainly not an overkill! Never :)
I always tin the center conductor I also twist it a little tighter before I tin and you have the center piece over the tinned center conductor while it’s hott
I glued two wooden clothline pins to a board and you can put the connector on one side and the coax on the other. It's held in place and keep the hole in the pin facing up, touch it with the iron and feed the solder in the hole. Put the solder iron away and give it a minute or so to cool and you're done. also don't push the back screw part up tight because the rubber grommet will bulge and make it harder to push into the shell. It's going to compress when you tighten the connector together. And using a plumbers wrench makes me wince
Now film it too :)
use a flux pen on wire, (not as messy as paste unless you are doing a lot). Fix cable in place on desk by heavy pliers or other weight to give both hands free if you dont have mini vice. Assemble, then hot iron under pin and feed solder to hole on top. Works for me.
Flux pen. OK thanks!
Been using the compression connectors for a couple years now. XRDS-RF store. Actually you don't even need the tiny spot of solder from cable center conductor to the gold plated brass pin, you can just crimp pin on conductor. Compression is far stronger than the old styles.
Cute remark Steve
@@stefanomessi Well Callum 'loved' it. What is cute? It is in the manufacturer's instructions to crimp pin. A pinhead of solder is a waste of time.
@@Ben--David these are supposed to be solder connectors, and people who want to apply high amplification on them what to stay on the "safe side". This is the reason why we also have the "solderless" connectors, but their request is minimal. On the Connectors for our Hyperflex 13 only, (either N or UHF), we made a special pin that allows either the solderless feature or the soldering one. Tomorrow morning I shall ask to our technician to try to crimp the current pin on the cable core, and we shall post the results. Thanks for your remark Steve
@@stefanomessi I did mention the brand I use, and that manufacturer's recommendations. Does your brand also have a gold plated pin?
@@Ben--David Answering your previous question, I checked this morning with my technicians, and the shape of the rounded pin is such that no crimping is allowed. We have tried either with the manual crimp tool or with the pneumatic one. The rounded pin has been designed for supporting two thick Teflon rings that are to be slipped in the right position. In other words, in the pin, some protrusions act as a stop for the Teflon rings (for a well-calculated and restricted operative welding area), making it impossible to insert the crimping head (because of these protrusions). even the smallest one available. I can assure you that following our instructions and using a Flux like ours, things can go very smoothly. For what concerns the gold plating, we prefer to use a special alloy that costs as gold plating, but without the risk of the bimetallic (Galvanic) effect.
Hey Callum. Another great video of what all of us go through to get the job/hobby done! Enough said in the comments about soldering. Flux is your friend. Take care!! VE3NMW
If you cut that PL259 off at 1 foot, now you created a collector's item, Callum. :)
HAHA!!
I love the double glazing.. were all getting old lol
Like all gland type connectors they look like a right faff & I've never had any luck with them personally. On the advise of W6LG I started using crimp connectors where you solder the tip of the centre pin & thus far I've never had a failure in almost 7 years. I know M&P stuff is very high quality but I think I'll stick to UR67 with crimp 259's myself.
Yes OK.. I've actually never had a failure either on ANY PL259, so there must be some HUGE tolerances for major cock-ups!
Love the videos! I don't think you were using large enough channel locks though...
I stick with crimp and center soldered. Flux the center conductor before inserting then solder.
I also add adhesive heat shrink on the coax, slide it down and heat it, keeps the water out a bit better
Flux.. OK!
I have an catalog of M&P (2018th edition). On page 40 there are the different types of connectors. The CO.UHF.7M-S needs 17mm (0,699") cut of. The 10mm cut off is valid for N-Type connector CO.N.7M-s. Using 17mm makes is a lot easier to solder the connector because the pin has a longer part to fit on.
For CO.UHF.10M-S (also usable for RG 213/U) it is 20mm.
For your soldering iron the best temperature should be between 400°C and 420°C (or 300°C..350°C for professional temperature controlled soldering stations).
Thank you for that!
You need a small bench vise (to hold your wire & connector), and 2 thin crescent wrenches.
I do - and I have them both but I couldn't be bothered to move the cameras and audio down top the other end of the shop! LOL!! :)
@@DXCommanderHQ LOL... I understand your pain. "The struggle is real, my friend!" 😥
as bill freeman says heat opposite the hole as soon as the correct temp is reached the solder will flow into the hole and soak the wire core. if you are not getting this to happen use a higher power iron i only use m&p connectors now an have done a dozen or so and i use A 25W iron perfect result evert time.
I have spent HOURS getting this right. In many cases I end up getting a connectivity of around 1 mega Ohm between center and shield. An unable to understand why, as even a single strand of copper shortening will give much lower resistance. But - made one cable work fine today
Ah. Good man. I have about 30 connectors installed right now.. All working :)
I'm glad it's not just me who struggles 😂
Me too
Interesting. I've just purchased some PL259 which look like N-type connectors. I've fitted N's to coax (UR67) in a previous career, so I'll be watching with interest. (pre-video presentation)
Hopefully you will have learned from my mistakes!
@@DXCommanderHQ Ha! Well with my banana fingers, my assembling is probably worse than yours. And assembling on-camera, one always drops 10 IQ points. However, nice job!
For me, I don't mind a hi-temp iron for this kind of work, but have the good fortune to have several bits. With my co-ordination I use a rod shaped bit rather than a cone to preserve nearby plastics in tight spaces. I ^very^ gently clean the surface of the inner conductor just to remove any insulator residue before tinning. In my training I was taught to tin furthest from any plastics: IE nearest the tip of the inner.
Looking at my PL259s, they have the N back end, but the straight through pin of the original. A MUCH better arrangement for the braid. For the original PL259's back in the day I used to pigtail the braid before soldering it in to the body, most unsatisfactory.
PS 7/10 because of your spanner substitutes! Oh, man! 🤦
@@Broadercasting Haha
Thanks for the post
Our UHF EVOs are inspired to the N connectors and never a UHF connector performance has been so close the the "N" ones.
The assembly is quite the same so if you know how to deal with the N, the job is done. The two disks to be placed around the hole in the pin, are made of genuine Teflon, so there is no problem in that area.
Just do not overheat because the only part in danger is the Foamed Polyetylene of the dielectric.
(everybody knows that copper of the inner conductor transfers heat very well).
The use of M&P-Flux or other quality-no clean flux is necessary in order to speed up the process, avoiding overheating.
Holding the connector in a small clamp, with the small hole facing upwards, poke the solder into the hole. Heat from underneath. Let the solder continue to melt until it overflows a bit. Clean off and you're done.
Thanks for the info!
A little flux pen will really help the flow, you " may " get a dry joint or higher resistance re-heating the solder without adding...when you use you will winder how you did without it...
Thank you!
Very similar to N--types as you mentioned, FWIW it is worth using very small gauge solder, and if you have a block of wood or similar to push the centre pin against. excess solder can be scraped off with something like a Stanley knife blade. I dread to think how many N-types I have fitted over the years, but the first one in every session is always fiddly. pedantically you should not blow on a solder joint, though we have all done it. Good demo though, they really are nothing to be scared of.
Good tips there. Thanks for that. Never knew about the blowing..
@@DXCommanderHQ we can't help ourselves, we just do it as our fingers burn ::-)
As an aviation electronics technician, I can tell you that I tin every connector and pin that requires soldering. Even if I don't need to. Because everybody knows that solder is better.
Wow
@@DXCommanderHQ
LoL 😅 had to fix that typo.
I've fitted a standard pl259 on the end of my 10mm messi cable, and my swr as flat 1/1 all through 2mtr band, and output gone up by 2bars to my regular stations. M7HIJ
Just use an old-fashioned 200 watt soldering iron, they have a large soldering tip that contains a lot of heat and therefore does not cool down immediately, even if you remove the power then you can easily solder a few plugs.
thanks for the instruction !!! i end up paying 20$ to M&P to do all that work for me ! i m terrible to do electronic welding.
Have always thought you need to be part Octopus to solder properly. Will have to get some of those Doc Oc arms from Spiderman. As you say it a a practice thing, after doing lots it becomes easier. I tend to use the crimp type for any indoor connections and the compression type for outdoors. Indoors are generally short jump leads, so I am not tempted to use the short bits, with crimp connectors outside. Probably be OK with some Waterproof, glue lined shrink wrap though.
Octopus... Yeah!
Nowadays dealing with XYL has never been so easy: (me holding pizza) you have italian shoes I want to have something Italian too. She agrees then the doorbell interrupts the conversation. it was a delivery from M&P.
HAHA
This looks hard 😮
I'm only 6:57 in but thanks for this -- I wouldn't have otherwise gone on to see that I've been doing BNC clamp-styles quite wrongly. They still work of course, so there's that ;) but now that I know that, I'm wondering if they could work better... I had never gotten any instructions nor been shown, so I guessed (if only there were some way I could reach out to query the universe for how to do things....) I figured the rubber "grommet" was actually there to make a pressure "pinch" of the braid against the shell of the connector to ensure positive contact... and there's apparently a thin washer I couldn't figure out was a spacer between the plastic spacer and the part that actually goes against the braid...
Made almost identically to how this one is made, just BNC.
As for my PL-259s, I'm still using that annoying kind that you have to solder on. Doesn't bother me -- they're less expensive and do the job -- but I'd definitely rather have these.
As for water intrusion prevention, how well do these perform in your experience?
Just got to 8:12. God, I can relate.
HAHAHA!!! Love the last line of your comment.. I missed that part of the tutorial so I've been guesing every since!
You really need to ask Santa for so proper tools, Bahaha
We are going to have to take up a collection to get you a proper set of tools and a proper electronics vise.
I promise to buy a vice/vise for the bench!
I find myself wanting to reach into the laptop screen to steady some bits or hold the cable steady. It was like I'm sucking my teeth and thinking "steady old man" you'll get it." Bad news for you Callum, it doesn't get better with age! I find myself using the little two-arm alligator-clip "soldering aid" device and (lol moment) slipping the "coke bottle" lens magnifying specs on -- but not over graduated focus specs -- that just wouldn't work. So regular specs off, magnifiers on, then trying to find the regular specs, looking everywhere -- only to find then atop the noggin.
Otherwise, very good demo and obviously superior connection method. I must look for the Canadian source for both cable and connectors. TNX & 73
HAHAHA!
I prefer the old style over this. I did just try some of the new ones that were designed by DX Engineering (for LMR400). You need a crimper for the shield, the tip is soldered. Not bad. Better than the way the old ones kind of screwed on. Always thought that deformed the dielectric too much for my tastes.
Interesting connector you have there. Too many parts for me. Spent many years as a communications tech. The more parts to a connector, the more of a pain it'll be to install and conversely, often it's a better connector. So while these may be a pain in the ass, they're probably decent connectors. :)
PL259’s are a pain but I always hated soldering the BNC connectors on… especially with a big Weller 100/140w soldering gun
Use a bit of vaseline on the silicone rubber sleeve and on the O ring and it'll screw together much easier and less chance of the O Ring getting squeezed out. I think the design at that end wants a tweak, a leading edge to allow the O ring to clamp down a bit nicer as I have found they do get squeezed out a bit too easily. 🙂
Interesting
Tinning yes mate always use flux and always heat from one side and add the solder to the other, Solder always travels towards the heat