The last time I used messmers on my IPE deck, it rained for a week straight. It left the wood dark. Would the deck brightener work to remove the darkness or do I need to sand? We have only used the messmers ipe oil.
Very nice video, I'm about to restore my Ipe deck and I have never done this before. Some questions, 1) Does the wood have to be allowed to fully dry between rinsing the sanded areas and applying the brightener, 2) Is there a waiting period between rinsing off the excess brightener and applying the oil protective coating, does it need to fully dry? If it does have to fully dry between steps, do you recommend waiting at least 12 hrs before proceeding (assuming no rain/low humidity)? Thanks again.
Apply the brightener while the wood is wet. I would wait about 10 minutes to allow the brightener to do its thing. You do not want the brightener to dry before you neutralize it. You should wait until the wood is dry. That time period will depend on the actual wood type and the temp for the day. You can wait 12 to 24 hours if you would like. You just don't want the deck to get dirty again so time is of the essence.
@@teakmastertim Thank you for these videos- truly a lifesaver for a DIYer like myself. No varnish on our exptic hardwood (cumaru), but looks very dirty after about 9 months....we live in Virginia. Can you confirm that pressure washing exotic hardwood is okay? Any reason not to pressure wash? Of course, planning to follow it up with brightener (do I need to completely let dry after the powerwashing and before applying brightener?) as well as the oil. Thanks!!
@@katiefusco799Thanks for watching! Power washing is fine. You need knowledge of how to properly the pressure washer. Also you need the correct PSI and the correct tip and be able to maintain a safe and consistant distance from the tip to the wood. A pressure washer is for cleaning surface dirt off the wood only. It is not a substitute for sanding. You want to apply the brightener while the wood is wet. Keep it wet. Then neutralize. I hope this helps.
@@teakmastertim Thank you Tim. One last item--- if the deck is older (8 years), does it still need to be sanded before applying the brightening then the oil coat? Or is sanding only for new installs?
Thanks for posting this! What grit sandpaper did you use? Also, my Ipe deck has greyed out due to sun. Can sanding bring back the beautiful variants of the original wood?
Beautiful work by you and your crew Tim. I am a painting contractor in Hawaii. It is clear to me that you know your stuff, have the right tools, and don't take short cuts. I am certain there are a lot of homeowners out there asking themselves why their deck does not look like your finished product. Needless to say, they know why now. Keep up the good work. Respects, Blue Sky
I have iron rails that attach to my IPE deck. How do I clean the deck without the iron bleeding onto the deck? Most ipe cleaning chemicals say to not use with iron railings
Hi, just cpme across this video and wow great content and information. One question, do you apply one coat of oil or do you come back next day to apply a second coat? Oh and do you ever use chemical strippers to remove old coatings or only by sanding?? Cheers
Thank you for this video as this is very helpful to me. I could do with your company here in the UK! Is it necessary to use a wood cleaning solution before sanding or a power washer or just go straight ahead with the sanding? If anyone could let me know, that would be great.
We rarely or almost never use cleaners as they are usually very acidic and toxic. Usually the combo of cleaning and sanding will take off almost any finish. I would wash off dirt and debris before you sand.
Great video! Excellent advice. I'm definitely going to use the documentation of the site inspection and documentation. I'm a floor refinisher. I would have loved to sand the deck for you (but I'm in New York) I'd be curious to know what penetrating oils you like to use. We use the standards like penofin, sikens (now ppg) and some local brands like super deck. All penetrating oils. Thank you your video was very informative and will help me! Best wishes, Jay
Very cool vid! I thought Ipe was an oil? I was planning on refinishing my mahogany deck with Ipe. I was also planning on using a sanding sealer before sanding? Will that affect the oil application?
@@teakmastertim Ipe doesn't need sanding. It is so dense it's one of the only ones that does not splinter. Save the time. Clean it and let it go gray OR stain it.
SANDING rock? I skipped though some of the vid and missed that. Maybe you can get away with that as a contractor and have a ton of labor available. And can then bill for all that work. My cumaru just laughs at sandpaper. When I installed it I tried using a huge belt sander and it took forever to do a single board. No way I'll devote that much time with a small orbital (at my age) to a finish that will need to be redone in less than a year. @stertim
I stained my ipe deck and didn’t remove excess oil so now it is sticky and tacky like you mention. Is there anything I can do now to remove the stickiness?
I've got an 18' X 20' Cumaru deck and it is a pain in the ass doing all this work. I use Messmers. It's absolutely gorgeous when done, but man is it a ton of work. What you do differently is to apply with a brush and then mop up (dry) the excess every three boards. I have used a pad on the end of a stick and then dry off the excess some 30 mins later. Always a lot of work for this 65-yr old man. I THINK that by using a brush you may be able to apply a thinner coat and then have less to wipe up. Hard to say. I am thinking of trying a water based product this year to reduce the work. And, my finish looks lousy after as little as 6-9 months, so it hardly seems worth all the effort. Almost wish I had put down TREX or similar now.
Thanks for the comments. I would stay away fro water based coatings. They simply do not work. They sit on top of the wood and blister and peel quickly. they have not figured our a way to have the water molecule penetrate like an oil does.
The product I am considering gets very good reviews. That's the only reason I'm thinking about trying it this year. I love the look of the Messmers and have used it each spring for the last ten years. But it's expensive and then doesn't last long enough to justify the level of work. 6-9 months tops before it starts to look lousy. Part of my deck is under cover and looks great. Another part stays relatively dry but gets a lot of sun. The rest gets full sun and rain. So I have started to pressure wash it and leave it alone each fall. Then reapply Mesmers each spring. I dunno....just thinking out loud due to frustration. Great video. Thanks. @stertim
So I could have written this exact same comment myself. Just finished the first cleaning process, now getting ready to brighten before applying the oil. We have the EXACT same situation of sun/shade and have cleaned and finished MANY times. It’s soooo much work. I too am 65 and I’m too old for this @**t! As you say, it looks good for about 6-9 months and them BAM, same old same old. I truly wish I had put TREX in. Let me know if you put the water based product on.
@lainynoonan1229 It's definitely not as easy as it looks especially if you have a microclimate that dictates service at 6 or 8 months. I appreciate your will in doing it yourself. We do not use water-based coatings on hardwood or horizontal surfaces. Thanks for your comment!!!
@@lainynoonan1229 My husband and I are in the exact same situation and I have been scouring the internet for an alternative to this process (in the amazing video!!). We live in Virginia- lots of different weather, humid summers, the oil based finish looks good for about 6 months, tops, then right back to where we started. Tons of work for an outcome that looks tip top for about 2 weeks before deteriorating. Totally wish we had done a TREX type decking.
what oil based stain have you found to last longest? I've used Ready Seal, dark walnut, which after a few summer months lightens considerably. I tried the light oak originally, but it only lasted six months and lost all its color. They cannot put much UV pigment in super light colored stains. Our deck was built in 2019, and stained every six months for a couple years....last time was fall 2021, so now it's been 1.5 years and the stain is shot. I just did a light sanding with 180 grit (I've seen one guy recommend 40-60). Getting ready to brighten the wood (is that really necessary) with either bleach or oxalic acid, then stain. What products have you found effective?
The coating should be re applied when it's necessary. Weather patterns change from year to year and so will the longevity of the coating. 180 is too fine. Leave at 80. We hope this helps.
It’s fall and leaves are coming down in Virginia. I’ve power washed, used tsp to further clean, rinsed with water, hand sanded with random orbital sander, rinsed again to remove dust. Can I apply ipe oil now before cold weather sets in or wait for all the leaves to fall?
Hey John, sorry for the late reply. just make sure to follow the guidelines of what the manufacturer suggest in terms of hot and cold temps. Also make sure it will not rain the day before or the day after and you should be good.
Mr Miyagi would question your sanding and brush technique…. Other than that, awesome job. Debating on pressure washing and using the cleaner or just sanding.
Very helpful video. In my case, Im try to figure out what to do with an ipe railing (The rest of my deck is made of something else, but just the railing is made of ipe). The person who installed it, put some sort of product on it, but I don’t know what. Whatever they put on it didn’t last very long and the ipe wood already looks very dry, even though it’s only been about 5 months. Any further tip on what to do in this particular case?
When following guidelines of lumber manufacturers and using penetrating oil finishes, you can re apply when necessary. Similar to applying sunblock to your skin, you reapply when necessary. Same goes with penetrating oil finishes.
I used a product called "OneTime" which is a penetrating sealer and the wood LAUGHS at me as it is so dense it will only accept a tiny bit of stain then start to bubble back. In Colorado if you don't clean that up immediately to will pop and dry weird and you won't be happy with the finished product. I ended up staining it with old socks by hand and it took me four days!!
I want to use ipe and do your method but what is the maintenance for this stain? I have seen other videos where the ipe goes to grey. I am afraid to use ipe if its going to grey out every year. And once it goes grey i dont think you can put the stain on top. You have resand again right?
They key is to keep up with maintenance. As long as you perform maintenance when necessary, you do not have to do the entire process. If it goes past the maintenance period, you will have to do the entire process.
@@teakmastertim Thanks for responding so quickly. How often is maintenance scheduled? What are the basic steps of maintenance? I will most likely be doing this myself. No deck, just about 4ft x 50ft of fence, doing both sides.
I’ve had my Ipe deck for 10 years. The first 3 years or so I cleaned and reapplied Messmers religiously. I finally got tired of the maintenance and let it go it’s natural gray. Best advice i could give you, let it go gray.
I am at that crossroads too where I just cleaned it with Olympic cleaner but would prefer it to be gray to save on maintenance. Only problem is the surrounding railing is not IPE and I must stain that or it looks hideous. Thoughts?
@@dennisfyfe920 most designers will advise that you match exactly, or make one an accent color. If you try to make a match and fail, it’s really obvious. Better to go with a complimentary color/shade.
@@jeffevans5708 I’ll just have to keep the slats and rails oiled. I may just go to Linseed oil so I get the grain to show. At my age I hate maintenance. Some videos say oil every few months…yeah right!!!! Lol
It depends how hot the surface is. You don't want the oil to become sticky by waiting too long. There is only so much of the oil that the wood will accept.
Great video Tim. Two questions: 1 - would you use a pressure washer instead of sanding if the deck is only 2 years old? 2 - which oil based sealer did you use?
Clean, sand, brighten, apply penetrating oil sealer finish. Unless you want to keep the gray look, you can just scrub clean to remove surface dirt and leave raw to continue to oxidize.
Mediocre results. You have a clean deck but you still have the microscopic layer of dead oxidized wood that needs to be removed. Its all in the prep. Cut corners and get corner cutting results.
@@h3lld3mon Hey Andy 99% of the time we use natural tone. This time we applied a custom tint Messmers made for us called Colorado Brown. It helps mute a little of the red in the natural Ipe. The client requested the red to be muted as best possible.
Not correct sir. Most deck boards are not perfectly flat. Belt sanders and drum sanders rarely work because they will only sand the sides of each board. We have both hand belt sanders and drum floor sanders they simply dont work for every exterior deck project. Thanks for your incorrect opinion though...
Hey Tim, I really like your videos.
Very easy to understand .
Excellent work. Going to work on my fence next week
Beautiful work
Great video, I am ordering my Ipe !
The last time I used messmers on my IPE deck, it rained for a week straight. It left the wood dark. Would the deck brightener work to remove the darkness or do I need to sand? We have only used the messmers ipe oil.
Great Video!!! Thank you
Very nice video, I'm about to restore my Ipe deck and I have never done this before. Some questions, 1) Does the wood have to be allowed to fully dry between rinsing the sanded areas and applying the brightener, 2) Is there a waiting period between rinsing off the excess brightener and applying the oil protective coating, does it need to fully dry? If it does have to fully dry between steps, do you recommend waiting at least 12 hrs before proceeding (assuming no rain/low humidity)? Thanks again.
Apply the brightener while the wood is wet. I would wait about 10 minutes to allow the brightener to do its thing. You do not want the brightener to dry before you neutralize it. You should wait until the wood is dry. That time period will depend on the actual wood type and the temp for the day. You can wait 12 to 24 hours if you would like. You just don't want the deck to get dirty again so time is of the essence.
@@teakmastertim Thank you for these videos- truly a lifesaver for a DIYer like myself. No varnish on our exptic hardwood (cumaru), but looks very dirty after about 9 months....we live in Virginia. Can you confirm that pressure washing exotic hardwood is okay? Any reason not to pressure wash? Of course, planning to follow it up with brightener (do I need to completely let dry after the powerwashing and before applying brightener?) as well as the oil. Thanks!!
@@katiefusco799Thanks for watching! Power washing is fine. You need knowledge of how to properly the pressure washer. Also you need the correct PSI and the correct tip and be able to maintain a safe and consistant distance from the tip to the wood. A pressure washer is for cleaning surface dirt off the wood only. It is not a substitute for sanding. You want to apply the brightener while the wood is wet. Keep it wet. Then neutralize. I hope this helps.
@@teakmastertim Thank you Tim. One last item--- if the deck is older (8 years), does it still need to be sanded before applying the brightening then the oil coat? Or is sanding only for new installs?
Thanks for posting this! What grit sandpaper did you use? Also, my Ipe deck has greyed out due to sun. Can sanding bring back the beautiful variants of the original wood?
Kimberly
Thank you.
You should use 80 grit and leave it at 80 grit.
Once you apply the sealer, the color variance will come back.
Great video! I subscribed!!
Thanks DeAnn
Beautiful work by you and your crew Tim. I am a painting contractor in Hawaii. It is clear to me that you know your stuff, have the right tools, and don't take short cuts. I am certain there are a lot of homeowners out there asking themselves why their deck does not look like your finished product. Needless to say, they know why now. Keep up the good work.
Respects,
Blue Sky
Thank you so much!
Nice job! How often do you anticipate the oil will need to be reapplied? I know in our mountain climate we have to reapply every year.
I have iron rails that attach to my IPE deck. How do I clean the deck without the iron bleeding onto the deck? Most ipe cleaning chemicals say to not use with iron railings
Hi, just cpme across this video and wow great content and information. One question, do you apply one coat of oil or do you come back next day to apply a second coat? Oh and do you ever use chemical strippers to remove old coatings or only by sanding??
Cheers
Thank you for this video as this is very helpful to me. I could do with your company here in the UK! Is it necessary to use a wood cleaning solution before sanding or a power washer or just go straight ahead with the sanding? If anyone could let me know, that would be great.
We rarely or almost never use cleaners as they are usually very acidic and toxic. Usually the combo of cleaning and sanding will take off almost any finish. I would wash off dirt and debris before you sand.
Thank you Mr Gilliam for your reply which is much appreciated. Regards Richard
Great video! Excellent advice. I'm definitely going to use the documentation of the site inspection and documentation. I'm a floor refinisher. I would have loved to sand the deck for you (but I'm in New York)
I'd be curious to know what penetrating oils you like to use. We use the standards like penofin, sikens (now ppg) and some local brands like super deck. All penetrating oils.
Thank you your video was very informative and will help me!
Best wishes, Jay
Thank you, yup the standards. Penofin or Messmers. We do not use Sikkens anymore. Too many formula changes.
Very cool vid! I thought Ipe was an oil? I was planning on refinishing my mahogany deck with Ipe. I was also planning on using a sanding sealer before sanding? Will that affect the oil application?
Hey Lee
You do not need a sanding sealer. You may use Ipe oil on your Mahohany deck. It's good for all hardwoods.
What was the brightener product you used?
Nice work, i put in my ipe deck in 2006, so it really needs a good sanding
Never skip the sanding. It's the most important step and the one that lazy contractors try to skip.
@@teakmastertim Ipe doesn't need sanding. It is so dense it's one of the only ones that does not splinter. Save the time. Clean it and let it go gray OR stain it.
SANDING rock? I skipped though some of the vid and missed that. Maybe you can get away with that as a contractor and have a ton of labor available. And can then bill for all that work. My cumaru just laughs at sandpaper. When I installed it I tried using a huge belt sander and it took forever to do a single board. No way I'll devote that much time with a small orbital (at my age) to a finish that will need to be redone in less than a year. @stertim
I stained my ipe deck and didn’t remove excess oil so now it is sticky and tacky like you mention. Is there anything I can do now to remove the stickiness?
I've got an 18' X 20' Cumaru deck and it is a pain in the ass doing all this work. I use Messmers. It's absolutely gorgeous when done, but man is it a ton of work. What you do differently is to apply with a brush and then mop up (dry) the excess every three boards. I have used a pad on the end of a stick and then dry off the excess some 30 mins later. Always a lot of work for this 65-yr old man. I THINK that by using a brush you may be able to apply a thinner coat and then have less to wipe up. Hard to say. I am thinking of trying a water based product this year to reduce the work. And, my finish looks lousy after as little as 6-9 months, so it hardly seems worth all the effort. Almost wish I had put down TREX or similar now.
Thanks for the comments. I would stay away fro water based coatings. They simply do not work. They sit on top of the wood and blister and peel quickly. they have not figured our a way to have the water molecule penetrate like an oil does.
The product I am considering gets very good reviews. That's the only reason I'm thinking about trying it this year. I love the look of the Messmers and have used it each spring for the last ten years. But it's expensive and then doesn't last long enough to justify the level of work. 6-9 months tops before it starts to look lousy. Part of my deck is under cover and looks great. Another part stays relatively dry but gets a lot of sun. The rest gets full sun and rain. So I have started to pressure wash it and leave it alone each fall. Then reapply Mesmers each spring. I dunno....just thinking out loud due to frustration. Great video. Thanks. @stertim
So I could have written this exact same comment myself. Just finished the first cleaning process, now getting ready to brighten before applying the oil. We have the EXACT same situation of sun/shade and have cleaned and finished MANY times. It’s soooo much work. I too am 65 and I’m too old for this @**t! As you say, it looks good for about 6-9 months and them BAM, same old same old. I truly wish I had put TREX in. Let me know if you put the water based product on.
@lainynoonan1229 It's definitely not as easy as it looks especially if you have a microclimate that dictates service at 6 or 8 months. I appreciate your will in doing it yourself. We do not use water-based coatings on hardwood or horizontal surfaces. Thanks for your comment!!!
@@lainynoonan1229 My husband and I are in the exact same situation and I have been scouring the internet for an alternative to this process (in the amazing video!!). We live in Virginia- lots of different weather, humid summers, the oil based finish looks good for about 6 months, tops, then right back to where we started. Tons of work for an outcome that looks tip top for about 2 weeks before deteriorating. Totally wish we had done a TREX type decking.
what oil based stain have you found to last longest? I've used Ready Seal, dark walnut, which after a few summer months lightens considerably. I tried the light oak originally, but it only lasted six months and lost all its color. They cannot put much UV pigment in super light colored stains. Our deck was built in 2019, and stained every six months for a couple years....last time was fall 2021, so now it's been 1.5 years and the stain is shot. I just did a light sanding with 180 grit (I've seen one guy recommend 40-60). Getting ready to brighten the wood (is that really necessary) with either bleach or oxalic acid, then stain. What products have you found effective?
The coating should be re applied when it's necessary. Weather patterns change from year to year and so will the longevity of the coating. 180 is too fine. Leave at 80. We hope this helps.
I wish you guys were here in Atlanta
We love the ATL!!!
Great video thank you what kind of sand paper do you start at 80? 120 do you go up down
Hey Joe,
80 is best. Just leave it at 80.
@@teakmastertim thank you
It’s fall and leaves are coming down in Virginia. I’ve power washed, used tsp to further clean, rinsed with water, hand sanded with random orbital sander, rinsed again to remove dust. Can I apply ipe oil now before cold weather sets in or wait for all the leaves to fall?
Hey John, sorry for the late reply. just make sure to follow the guidelines of what the manufacturer suggest in terms of hot and cold temps. Also make sure it will not rain the day before or the day after and you should be good.
Great video. We have been looking at Ipe furniture and wanted to know if the natural dark color could be restored after it weathered. Now we know!!
Hey Will, it most definitely can. That's the beauty of hardwood furniture such as Ipe. Through proper technique it can look new again.
@@teakmastertim So I have to ask, in your opinion is the price premium of Ipe (compared to Teak) worth it ?
@@jdix73 It all depends on your budget. Teak is nice and rare to see a deck made out of it due to its pricing.
Mr Miyagi would question your sanding and brush technique…. Other than that, awesome job. Debating on pressure washing and using the cleaner or just sanding.
Very helpful video. In my case, Im try to figure out what to do with an ipe railing (The rest of my deck is made of something else, but just the railing is made of ipe). The person who installed it, put some sort of product on it, but I don’t know what. Whatever they put on it didn’t last very long and the ipe wood already looks very dry, even though it’s only been about 5 months. Any further tip on what to do in this particular case?
When following guidelines of lumber manufacturers and using penetrating oil finishes, you can re apply when necessary. Similar to applying sunblock to your skin, you reapply when necessary. Same goes with penetrating oil finishes.
Hi ,how much does this cost to do per square foot ? Looks amazing .
Thanks
It really depends on the condition of the wood and what needs to be done. Pricing unfortunately doesn't usually go only by square footage.
I used a product called "OneTime" which is a penetrating sealer and the wood LAUGHS at me as it is so dense it will only accept a tiny bit of stain then start to bubble back. In Colorado if you don't clean that up immediately to will pop and dry weird and you won't be happy with the finished product. I ended up staining it with old socks by hand and it took me four days!!
I want to use ipe and do your method but what is the maintenance for this stain? I have seen other videos where the ipe goes to grey. I am afraid to use ipe if its going to grey out every year. And once it goes grey i dont think you can put the stain on top. You have resand again right?
They key is to keep up with maintenance. As long as you perform maintenance when necessary, you do not have to do the entire process. If it goes past the maintenance period, you will have to do the entire process.
@@teakmastertim Thanks for responding so quickly. How often is maintenance scheduled? What are the basic steps of maintenance? I will most likely be doing this myself. No deck, just about 4ft x 50ft of fence, doing both sides.
Did you pot the penetrating oil on shortly after you sprayed it off with water?
Put instead of pot….sorry
Thanks
We applied the oil the same day. We used our moisture meter to make sure wood was ready to go. Ipe is as hard as a rock so it doesn't absorb water.
I’ve had my Ipe deck for 10 years. The first 3 years or so I cleaned and reapplied Messmers religiously. I finally got tired of the maintenance and let it go it’s natural gray. Best advice i could give you, let it go gray.
I am at that crossroads too where I just cleaned it with Olympic cleaner but would prefer it to be gray to save on maintenance. Only problem is the surrounding railing is not IPE and I must stain that or it looks hideous. Thoughts?
@@dennisfyfe920 most designers will advise that you match exactly, or make one an accent color. If you try to make a match and fail, it’s really obvious. Better to go with a complimentary color/shade.
I just sanded my entire deck, pain in the arse, but now will let it gracefully go gray.
@@jeffevans5708 I’ll just have to keep the slats and rails oiled. I may just go to Linseed oil so I get the grain to show. At my age I hate maintenance. Some videos say oil every few months…yeah right!!!! Lol
How long after staining did he start wiping off the excess from those 3 boards?
It depends how hot the surface is. You don't want the oil to become sticky by waiting too long. There is only so much of the oil that the wood will accept.
@@teakmastertim Awesome, thank you. Also, did you guys apply 1 or 2 coats?
Great video Tim. Two questions: 1 - would you use a pressure washer instead of sanding if the deck is only 2 years old? 2 - which oil based sealer did you use?
disregard #2 - i saw later down in the comments below. Still need an answer on #1 please.
I was told by the lumber expert to never pressure wash it
Thanks for the vid. My ipe deck is totally greyed, not sure what to do.
Clean, sand, brighten, apply penetrating oil sealer finish. Unless you want to keep the gray look, you can just scrub clean to remove surface dirt and leave raw to continue to oxidize.
@@teakmastertim wow, thanks!!! if I clean and don't sand, and then put clear penetrating oil down, what will it look like?
Mediocre results. You have a clean deck but you still have the microscopic layer of dead oxidized wood that needs to be removed. Its all in the prep. Cut corners and get corner cutting results.
I cleaned with deck cleaner stripped and im left with a black stain like surface across the whole garage door. sand it?
You can sand a small test area and see if it removes the marks.
@@teakmastertim 36 grit for 6 hours and im 70% clear!
@@teakmastertim 36 grit for six hours and im painting it.... thank you for the replies!
your work is impeccable
What product did you use?
Ditto.
What brightener did you use?
Hey Curtis, you can use any wood brightener from any of the companies that make an oil based ipe sealer. You can also use oxalic acid.
What grit sandpaper are you using?
80
What is the name of the dustless sander. So helpful. Our mess is even worse than the deck you showed. Anyone in the Williamsburg area who can do this?
Festool
Any particular model@@teakmastertim
The rect. palm sander
Thanks for the video. I live in N.C. and cannot find a professional to restore my ipe deck
Are you still needing a professional for this ma’am?
What is the best sealer to use?
We like Messmers UV Plus for Hardwoods
@@teakmastertim What color did you use in the video?
@@h3lld3mon Hey Andy 99% of the time we use natural tone. This time we applied a custom tint Messmers made for us called Colorado Brown. It helps mute a little of the red in the natural Ipe. The client requested the red to be muted as best possible.
Not the right way to sand. You need the belt sander
Not correct sir. Most deck boards are not perfectly flat. Belt sanders and drum sanders rarely work because they will only sand the sides of each board. We have both hand belt sanders and drum floor sanders they simply dont work for every exterior deck project. Thanks for your incorrect opinion though...
@@teakmastertim The Festool RTS400 works great for that width of board. People don't realize how effective that little sander is, I know you do.