The BMS is there for a reason, By passing the bms is a very dangerous thing to do , as the job of the bms is to make sure that you don't over charge and under charge, by removing the bms you have a very good charge to over heat the cells and start a fire , it is a very bad idea, I don't think that you know how dangerous that battery pack can be, and you are teaching people that to removing the safety feature the battery management system. Thats how you star a fire, by the was I am an electronic engineer. People don't copy this video, if you don't wanna Burn down your house.
Hi thx for this video, After the bypass, can I continue to recharge the battery without damaging the charger, or do you recommend to do a switch to the bypass?
My guy. Tell me why I just got a couple of these at the auction, they ride hella smooth!! And no hall wires to mess with. But on the older limes no by pass is needed for that battery
you are absolutely right. That’s what I noticed when I go back to some of my very first videos , my editing was horrible back in the gap 😂..hell yeah I appreciate that my guy💯
Hi Sir! You have helped me a lot but i need your help now. I have a new Scooter made by another company. I want to bypass the battery but it's an induction-charge swappable Battery. I don't know how i should convert it to an adapter chargeable one. How can i contact you? Would you help me again?
No idea . i’m sure you can use the method I use with the bird scooters using an aftermarket controller. Tho I Believe these motors are Sensorless meaning, they don’t depend on using hall sensor wires. That being said you should look into a brushless controller that’s sensorless. If you use a regular brushless controller without using the hall effect sensor wires you get this grinding sound from the motor. i’m sure that’s because the controller needs to have the hall sensor connected to the motor. But get a controller that doesn’t already have the hall effect sensor wires on it If you plan on, just doing a controller swap
I’ve only seen 1 forum on how to flash the bms on this electric scooter talk forum and being brutally honest with u it’s not easy at all to start off you should already be really good on micro soldering to be able to access the bms software if your not 100% you are gonna melt another chip on the board or short out the whole board itself. Then once you connect it to your windows computer from what I skimmed through you upload the flashed software and wait then it should be flashed but note this forum is old and these scooter get constant updates wirelessly so I’m pretty sure it doesn’t work anymore I’m sure it got patched already. I know for a fact lime developers are on the forums daily checking them to make it that much harder to re use the main parts of the scooter so unless you plan on learning C+ C++ to make your own flash I suggest just do this
@@ATF.California I went to such a forum ages ago, but I can’t find it in my bookmarks. Can you throw some keywords here, so I can search for it? Or a link would be ideal. Microelectronics is OK for me. Thanks!
@@headbanger1428 honestly bro it was a while ago I google using the stock controller and it was a website I think called electric scooter forum. But again your wasting ur time it’s not gonna work anymore that forum is years old the software has been updated so it won’t work just buy a new controller for 20 bucks saves u the headache trust me
The main + in on the same line with the - . It is a bigger solder spot at the other end of the line and you have 40v. The problem i find is that without the bypass the bms won't allow charge. Is there a sollution to this ?
@@Mechaniaxwhy would you ask this guy how to do anything? He thinks this battery is no good and said he's going to disassemble it all because he totally missed the B+ that is on the same end opposite side! Not to mention that this is a HORRIBLE idea and you should NEVER bypass a batteries BMS! The BMS allows the sets of battery's to charge evenly and get discharge evenly when used! BAD DIRECTIVES!!! DELETE
26v would not be all that wierd in this case considering that the cells was down to 2.9v, if you add in some unbalance to that then 26 should add upp, but you are actually right, he soldrered the wire to the wrong place, it should have been to the spot on the rigt to the one he soldrered to.
You guys do realize that not only after you get your scooter it’s not going to be 100% charged when you get also depending on how long it’s been sitting it will discharge itself over time and most likely someone used it drained it and it was left at that voltage mine was at 24v after I charged it was back at 34-36v
Not sure my guy ! Iv always stuck with the typical 2 amp chargers. Personally I would say it’s safe to charge it at 4 amps. I wouldn’t go past that tho
Potentionally, I highly not recommend charging the pack itself, connect it to scoot, (or dock it) and monitor the voltage to prevent overcharge. I use a 42v 5A charger for my 4.1 and it charges it quickly. Usually I do charge them with the 2V charger but it does takes long, and unlike the bird scoot, I have to monitor the battery or install my owm BMS onto the pack, and if I do that route, the scoot may not be compatable with their bms, as I do have to make changes to the scoot itself for that to work.
Nice work on the battery, that's the pack I'm using. I'm running a gen 4.1 seated, same thing, more secure. Do note, a brushless controller won't work in my knowledge, you need KT or those without hall sensors (the motor has no hall sensors), then also you need a controller that the height is less then 40mm, or you have to grind it to fit. Do note the charging uses the same output port, certain bypass risk overcharging, so i monitor the voltage with my own display, They're very rare in my area and chances I'm the only one in the city with this. Also I am working on another scoot, the S100T, completely abandoned in front of a friend's residence (maybe by company as gift to me lol) no battery, no instructions.
Iv connected a bird scooter without the hall sensors before and it worked only thing is it’ll probably have a grinding sound due to it running with no hall wires. If u have any recommendations please feel Free to send some links , that way I pin and highlight the comment for others just in case then choose to go this route . Thanks 🙏
Due to youtube comment check, can you please whitelist me on the youtube studio under approved users as the system blocks and flags links so I can post some of what I use for it. Also did you grab yourself a gen 4? I don't think it's in your area tho.
@@Jnsystemsbro your completely wrong everything you just is incorrect I use a 36-48v brushless 500 watt controller on my lime scooter 🛴 with this battery pack and it works like a champ and note all my controllers have hall sensor cables that I just put off to the side as far as size wise there is actually a good amount of room where the old controller was at so even if the new one is fatter you can make it fit or make more space cut into it from the top you gotta think outside the box 📦
True, you can grind the controller down to make it fit, but it seems mines work for a while now. Turns out some to all controllers work without hall sensors. Btw still working on the S100T my last controller defective, now I have one with only 2 motor wires.
This completely wrong all the negatives are not on one side. It's called series wiring you literally have to put negative to positive to be able to jump the voltage up also wires way too small and you're going to catch fire
He’s showing you the main battery 🔋 positive and negative connections to access the the voltage but yes you are correct not all points on each side are all + and - on the other end but none of that matters your not being told to connect to the smaller soldering points if you want to access the full voltage those are the only two points that matter Second no it won’t catch fire dude you do understand what a bms is right it will cut the voltage off that point if it starts to over heat to the point where the cable starts to melt even if it does start to overheat the cable the contact points are the first to melt off once that happens it’s done won’t get to the point where a fire starts unless u have a blanket or paper or something flammable which I doubt he does. So no he’s not completely wrong he only said 1 statement that wasn’t accurate and if you watched the whole video he did say it’s just to demonstrate how to and to use a thicker cable so yeah. If you know so much why even watch his videos then makes no sense my dude
@ATF.California you where bypassing the bms only using the bms for charging not the load and the alternating poles do matters if they go ahead and touch them all together see What happens make sure you record it please lol Hey mister master electrician why do you watch electronic videos that's very suspect huh I guess a baker does it make bake
Also this is very dangerous to do bypassing the bms makes it a real hazard especially if you run them down to much and try to recharge it will catch on fire
Lol yea normally I just stick with 16 gauge wire that does it for me. Using thin wire Opens the possibility to your bypass wire coming unsoldered from excessive heat, or the wire coating may melt and if that happens now that live bypass can make contact with every component on that bms.that be bad ☠️
Yes we need more lime scooter videos!
i needed this vid, i recently found 5 abandoned lime batteries. don’t know if it was the company or what but glad i was there to snatch them
BTW, is it 18650 or 21700?
@@alesynkin So they are 36v 9Ah right ?
you are the best will you soon be doing video conversions from lime scooters?
The BMS is there for a reason, By passing the bms is a very dangerous thing to do , as the job of the bms is to make sure that you don't over charge and under charge, by removing the bms you have a very good charge to over heat the cells and start a fire , it is a very bad idea, I don't think that you know how dangerous that battery pack can be, and you are teaching people that to removing the safety feature the battery management system. Thats how you star a fire, by the was I am an electronic engineer. People don't copy this video, if you don't wanna Burn down your house.
You sound like a🤓
tHe BmS IS tHeRe fOr A rEaSON*^
Shut up.😂
Thanks for taking your time to make the videos bro gracias
Hi thx for this video, After the bypass, can I continue to recharge the battery without damaging the charger, or do you recommend to do a switch to the bypass?
My guy. Tell me why I just got a couple of these at the auction, they ride hella smooth!! And no hall wires to mess with. But on the older limes no by pass is needed for that battery
Can you please show us how to flash them ? I think it would be much cleaner. Thak you !
Thanks!
So does this totally bypass the bms or just stop the battery from bricking?
How did you get the battery out of the scooter
Right on bro good video again. Editing is getting better also. And also the music is a nice touch. 🤙
you are absolutely right. That’s what I noticed when I go back to some of my very first videos , my editing was horrible back in the gap 😂..hell yeah I appreciate that my guy💯
Hi Sir!
You have helped me a lot but i need your help now.
I have a new Scooter made by another company.
I want to bypass the battery but it's an induction-charge swappable Battery.
I don't know how i should convert it to an adapter chargeable one.
How can i contact you? Would you help me again?
Even do a vid on how to also flash the firmware too ?
Aye man can there be a vid about repainting and repairing/rewelding parts on the scooters
What kind of cells are they?
How do you install a different BMS so you can use it and charge it?
Do u have any info on lime gen3 scooters I got one and I’m trying to re- wire it and be able to ride it - any info would be great thanks !!💯👍🏽
No idea . i’m sure you can use the method I use with the bird scooters using an aftermarket controller. Tho I Believe these motors are Sensorless meaning, they don’t depend on using hall sensor wires. That being said you should look into a brushless controller that’s sensorless. If you use a regular brushless controller without using the hall effect sensor wires you get this grinding sound from the motor. i’m sure that’s because the controller needs to have the hall sensor connected to the motor. But get a controller that doesn’t already have the hall effect sensor wires on it If you plan on, just doing a controller swap
Ans how you can do the flashing method? You should totally start tweeking this scooters around too!
I’ve only seen 1 forum on how to flash the bms on this electric scooter talk forum and being brutally honest with u it’s not easy at all to start off you should already be really good on micro soldering to be able to access the bms software if your not 100% you are gonna melt another chip on the board or short out the whole board itself. Then once you connect it to your windows computer from what I skimmed through you upload the flashed software and wait then it should be flashed but note this forum is old and these scooter get constant updates wirelessly so I’m pretty sure it doesn’t work anymore I’m sure it got patched already. I know for a fact lime developers are on the forums daily checking them to make it that much harder to re use the main parts of the scooter so unless you plan on learning C+
C++ to make your own flash I suggest just do this
@@ATF.California I went to such a forum ages ago, but I can’t find it in my bookmarks. Can you throw some keywords here, so I can search for it? Or a link would be ideal. Microelectronics is OK for me. Thanks!
@@headbanger1428 honestly bro it was a while ago I google using the stock controller and it was a website I think called electric scooter forum. But again your wasting ur time it’s not gonna work anymore that forum is years old the software has been updated so it won’t work just buy a new controller for 20 bucks saves u the headache trust me
Thak you, can you for Dott scoter
your a badass
The main + in on the same line with the - .
It is a bigger solder spot at the other end of the line and you have 40v.
The problem i find is that without the bypass the bms won't allow charge. Is there a sollution to this ?
Flash the battery
@@pjscootermods how?
@@Mechaniaxyou proficient in the language C+ and C++
Good eye! Nice catch! Thank you!
@@Mechaniaxwhy would you ask this guy how to do anything? He thinks this battery is no good and said he's going to disassemble it all because he totally missed the B+ that is on the same end opposite side!
Not to mention that this is a HORRIBLE idea and you should NEVER bypass a batteries BMS! The BMS allows the sets of battery's to charge evenly and get discharge evenly when used!
BAD DIRECTIVES!!! DELETE
I'd probably go with 12AWG silicone. 14AWG would be the minimum. Voltage drop would be a bitch with 16 AWG
I think in that environment, multiple higher-gauge (still meeting the current demands) PTFE-insulated wires would be a better solution.
👍
does anyone know where i can buy a scooter battery charger for lime gen 4?
u know how to bypass for Spin scooter battery?
can you show how to convert the lime gen 4 for personal use please?
or does someone have a link where it is described how to do that
Seems that 26v not right n not common. Did u go down the + contacts with meter ? 36v sounds right not 26v.
26v would not be all that wierd in this case considering that the cells was down to 2.9v, if you add in some unbalance to that then 26 should add upp, but you are actually right, he soldrered the wire to the wrong place, it should have been to the spot on the rigt to the one he soldrered to.
You guys do realize that not only after you get your scooter it’s not going to be 100% charged when you get also depending on how long it’s been sitting it will discharge itself over time and most likely someone used it drained it and it was left at that voltage mine was at 24v after I charged it was back at 34-36v
Does the battery still charge with bypass wire connected or would i need to brake the connection to charge the battery thanks
I like to know how I should charge battery 🔋 with bypass
Does the battery support fast chargers?
Not sure my guy ! Iv always stuck with the typical 2 amp chargers. Personally I would say it’s safe to charge it at 4 amps. I wouldn’t go past that tho
Potentionally,
I highly not recommend charging the pack itself, connect it to scoot, (or dock it) and monitor the voltage to prevent overcharge. I use a 42v 5A charger for my 4.1 and it charges it quickly.
Usually I do charge them with the 2V charger but it does takes long, and unlike the bird scoot, I have to monitor the battery or install my owm BMS onto the pack, and if I do that route, the scoot may not be compatable with their bms, as I do have to make changes to the scoot itself for that to work.
How do you get the battery off??
Brute force
How do you get the batteries off?
Brute force for me!
Nice work on the battery, that's the pack I'm using. I'm running a gen 4.1 seated, same thing, more secure.
Do note, a brushless controller won't work in my knowledge, you need KT or those without hall sensors (the motor has no hall sensors), then also you need a controller that the height is less then 40mm, or you have to grind it to fit. Do note the charging uses the same output port, certain bypass risk overcharging, so i monitor the voltage with my own display, They're very rare in my area and chances I'm the only one in the city with this. Also I am working on another scoot, the S100T, completely abandoned in front of a friend's residence (maybe by company as gift to me lol) no battery, no instructions.
Iv connected a bird scooter without the hall sensors before and it worked only thing is it’ll probably have a grinding sound due to it running with no hall wires.
If u have any recommendations please feel
Free to send some links , that way I pin and highlight the comment for others just in case then choose to go this route . Thanks 🙏
Due to youtube comment check, can you please whitelist me on the youtube studio under approved users as the system blocks and flags links so I can post some of what I use for it. Also did you grab yourself a gen 4? I don't think it's in your area tho.
@@Jnsystemsbro your completely wrong everything you just is incorrect I use a 36-48v brushless 500 watt controller on my lime scooter 🛴 with this battery pack and it works like a champ and note all my controllers have hall sensor cables that I just put off to the side as far as size wise there is actually a good amount of room where the old controller was at so even if the new one is fatter you can make it fit or make more space cut into it from the top you gotta think outside the box 📦
True, you can grind the controller down to make it fit, but it seems mines work for a while now. Turns out some to all controllers work without hall sensors. Btw still working on the S100T my last controller defective, now I have one with only 2 motor wires.
@@Jnsystems no man you don’t want to grind your controller lol the scooter man
The metal is thic so grinding it down a few won’t affect it
do not do this!! you will catch fire!!
Question ? What’s the purpose of the video I’m a bit confused
DIY Lime gen 4 battery bypass !
@@pjscootermodswhy isn’t there any voltage from the xt60 connected on battery tho ? I have a few and I get no reading
This completely wrong all the negatives are not on one side. It's called series wiring you literally have to put negative to positive to be able to jump the voltage up also wires way too small and you're going to catch fire
Unreal !
He’s showing you the main battery 🔋 positive and negative connections to access the the voltage but yes you are correct not all points on each side are all + and - on the other end but none of that matters your not being told to connect to the smaller soldering points if you want to access the full voltage those are the only two points that matter
Second no it won’t catch fire dude you do understand what a bms is right it will cut the voltage off that point if it starts to over heat to the point where the cable starts to melt even if it does start to overheat the cable the contact points are the first to melt off once that happens it’s done won’t get to the point where a fire starts unless u have a blanket or paper or something flammable which I doubt he does.
So no he’s not completely wrong he only said 1 statement that wasn’t accurate and if you watched the whole video he did say it’s just to demonstrate how to and to use a thicker cable so yeah.
If you know so much why even watch his videos then makes no sense my dude
@ATF.California you where bypassing the bms only using the bms for charging not the load and the alternating poles do matters if they go ahead and touch them all together see What happens make sure you record it please lol
Hey mister master electrician why do you watch electronic videos that's very suspect huh I guess a baker does it make bake
Bottom right pin on the board is the main b+
You hooked it up wrong you missed an entire cell in the battery
Also this is very dangerous to do bypassing the bms makes it a real hazard especially if you run them down to much and try to recharge it will catch on fire
Lmaoo I was just commenting that was way too thin of wire to be using as a load side bypass when you made the comment to use 16g or 14g 🫡
Lol yea normally I just stick with 16 gauge wire that does it for me. Using thin wire Opens the possibility to your bypass wire coming unsoldered from excessive heat, or the wire coating may melt and if that happens now that live bypass can make contact with every component on that bms.that be bad ☠️