I have a survivor ‘79 and have been chasing this exact issue for a year. I followed your steps and sure enough idle circuit out of spec. Thanks for taking the time to video and post.
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I have a '66 Corvair Corsa that the 2nd owner converted to EFI with '79 280zx system in the mid 80s. I've been deep into the 1980 EFI Bible and just ran all the resistance and voltage tests. Throttle switch idle has no continuity when it should be full. Your video connected all the dots with why and where I need to head next. Thanks again!
My ‘82 turbo has that sputtering problem. When you start it cold and immediately put it in gear and drive, the problem is minor. If you are driving around and shut it off for a few minutes to go into a store and then restart it, it will sputter until rpm is above 2000. After driving it a block it clears up and runs great.
I got a buddy who has a 77 280z sitting in my garage and we are trying to get it running. Currently idles but the second you hit the “gas” pedal it dies. Any suggestions? We are thinking MAF sensor which is pushing $250 so if anybody knows any other ideas it is much appreciated!! Hopefully we can get his looking and running as good as yours!
Definitely don't buy any parts until you go through the diagnostic procedure 100% Check / measure everything you can, and write down all the measurements of each system.
You have an AFM (air flow meter) and not a MAF sensor. First things first clean all of your plug contacts for your sensors. You can use WD-40 and a used toothbrush. If you have any green residue and such, you are not getting a good connection. And after that if you are still having issues. Gently pry the black cover off the AFM, using a razor blade or sharp exacto knife. Then with the car running, gently push the pendulum downward and see if the car surges like wanting to die. If it does then your AFM is working correctly. If it doesn't try adjusting the fuel/air mixture by loosening the screw but firmly hold the white gear so it doesn't spring loose. It will be a royal pain to get it right again as you have wind it all back up. Oh and also remember to mark the spot on the white gear before you start adjusting. Just in case you have to put it back where it was from factory. Moving the gear to the left should richen it and moving it to the right should lean it out. Hope that helps.
My L24E has a problem where the throttle ‘hangs up’ and very slowly returns to idle, even twitch the throttle shut, would this adjustment help you think?
I have an 82. So you only do this when the car is idling poorly? Or do you do any adjustment on it when the car don't run smooth or seem to lack power, sometimes "coughing" when driving?
Should there be a place where the middle spot doesn't touch either the idle and the wide open throttle or will it jump from idle straight to wide open throttle
I have a survivor ‘79 and have been chasing this exact issue for a year. I followed your steps and sure enough idle circuit out of spec. Thanks for taking the time to video and post.
WOOHOO!!! I am so glad it helped you! It's great to hear other people still taking care of these cars. Most people don't care to learn them
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I have a '66 Corvair Corsa that the 2nd owner converted to EFI with '79 280zx system in the mid 80s. I've been deep into the 1980 EFI Bible and just ran all the resistance and voltage tests. Throttle switch idle has no continuity when it should be full. Your video connected all the dots with why and where I need to head next. Thanks again!
Thank you for the great explanation, the Gremlin that appeared at 65mph has been exorcised!! 1000x👍👍👍👍👍
Im really glad this helped you!
This video was super helpful my tps just broke now I know how to adjust the sensor once the new one comes in lol
U made it look easy! I can't wait to do mine!
You can do it!!!
My ‘82 turbo has that sputtering problem. When you start it cold and immediately put it in gear and drive, the problem is minor. If you are driving around and shut it off for a few minutes to go into a store and then restart it, it will sputter until rpm is above 2000. After driving it a block it clears up and runs great.
Sounds like it could be caused by the TPS for sure
@@TheGaginator Definitly sounds like a heat soak issue mixed with the TPS to me
With a bad throttle position sensor make my car run rich
makes sense
Thank you for this Video!! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks for the info 😊
Glad it was helpful!
what is the difference for the Turbo 1981
I got a buddy who has a 77 280z sitting in my garage and we are trying to get it running. Currently idles but the second you hit the “gas” pedal it dies. Any suggestions? We are thinking MAF sensor which is pushing $250 so if anybody knows any other ideas it is much appreciated!! Hopefully we can get his looking and running as good as yours!
Definitely don't buy any parts until you go through the diagnostic procedure 100% Check / measure everything you can, and write down all the measurements of each system.
You have an AFM (air flow meter) and not a MAF sensor. First things first clean all of your plug contacts for your sensors. You can use WD-40 and a used toothbrush. If you have any green residue and such, you are not getting a good connection. And after that if you are still having issues. Gently pry the black cover off the AFM, using a razor blade or sharp exacto knife. Then with the car running, gently push the pendulum downward and see if the car surges like wanting to die. If it does then your AFM is working correctly. If it doesn't try adjusting the fuel/air mixture by loosening the screw but firmly hold the white gear so it doesn't spring loose. It will be a royal pain to get it right again as you have wind it all back up. Oh and also remember to mark the spot on the white gear before you start adjusting. Just in case you have to put it back where it was from factory. Moving the gear to the left should richen it and moving it to the right should lean it out. Hope that helps.
My L24E has a problem where the throttle ‘hangs up’ and very slowly returns to idle, even twitch the throttle shut, would this adjustment help you think?
It wouldn't hurt to double check this adjustment. Check for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine if possible
I have an 82. So you only do this when the car is idling poorly? Or do you do any adjustment on it when the car don't run smooth or seem to lack power, sometimes "coughing" when driving?
I would do this under that circumstance as well. This car would backfire as well
Should there be a place where the middle spot doesn't touch either the idle and the wide open throttle or will it jump from idle straight to wide open throttle
No, on this system there is not a middle setting in the tps, the ecu uses a base map for that fuel mixture when not at idle /WOT
Kinda late! Both of my screws flew out of mine. What size are those if you happen to know?
Oh dang man! I dont have the car with me to check im sorry
Do you have any idea how much time you saved me? Thank you!
Yes.... yes I do... Haha. I had to teach myself this years ago. I used to work on a ton of Z cars. I am so glad this helped you!