Yamaha XS650 Engine Build Part 2 - The Clutch Basket
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- čas přidán 28. 10. 2018
- A friend of mine came across an XS650 engine that was taken apart and stored in several boxes, I have the task to put this beast back together and get her running once again, this will be in several parts as I will need to purchase missing or broken unusable parts throughout the build.
OK thank you for posting ..keep on with that ... it ..is always interesting to watch an experienced person performing a job. One can always learn something new. About how it is done
Please if possible give info about the C -clamp method.
That housing nut is difficult to get off. I bought a cheap clutch holding tool that folded like a card house
When i tried to loosen the nut. Subsequent methods. And i Broke of one section on the Clutch basket.
Destroying it.
For other it might have interest that an Impact wrench is a tool that can do the trick. Not that expensive
So if that is a useful well known method with C -clamps .Please tell. I can see the risk that only one clamp will take up the load.
Many screws with a crosshead are I believe of Japan standard. Be careful.
carefully select the right size bit. ( Closest )
I Use a 1/4 inch ratchet and put force down on the bit as much as I can --and then loosen it. Slowly.
Some heat is the next step. After that drilling it out. If you ask me someone should outlaw the use of
crosshead screws. Keep the videos coming and if the bike is on the road running please upload a walkaround. I have two bikes and worked on them since 1985. And driven one every year.
Charging always a problem. And ignition timing. ( Stock )
This is a great help. Do you have the dreaded difficulty of selecting neutral when warmed up caused by clutch drag? It seems a common problem and no-one able to resolve the issue entirely (including, presumably Yamaha).
Hi Dave, do you have the single length clutch push rod or the original two push rods the bike was designed to use? I noticed with the single push rod it doesn't expand as quick as the engine warms up causing the clutch operation to become a little slack, and by this you have to adjust the free play in the cable as soon as the bike starts warming up, with the original two rod design I don't seem to have that problem, that could be one cause and the other thing I noticed is the amount of oil that is used in the bike, from 1975 Yamaha changed the amount of oil you should put into a XS650 from 2500cc to 2000cc and they also redesigned the dipstick by moving the fill marks, I will be uploading a video shortly about this and how to put the correct amount of oil in. Too much oil may cause clutch drag also.
@@OldBiker Hi, first can I say how much I'm enjoying your videos and thanks for replying. I wasn't expecting it. I have the single piece rod and the correct oil and amount. I've had this problem since I've had the bike (years). It seems a longstanding problem, with some experiencing it and others not and no common denominator. Lots just live with it and select neutral just rolling to a halt. I'm reading up everything I can about this problem and will go through everything in the winter. One thing I learned from your video is there is a right way round for the plates. I noticed you had slight indentations on the clutch basket fingers (might be staining) but you report no drag. Lots file these off. The only common denominator I have ever come across in all of my reading is people who report "run out" on the clutch pressure plate and that sorting this sorted the problem. Unfortunately, no lathe.
@@otooled Hi Dave, something else to look at to improve the clutch operation is the clutch actuator arm in the image here :-www.mikesxs.net/media/catalog/product/cache/aedb53fa1e1884a1e5c74eac9e75afaa/3/9/39-6518-01.png The arm has two holes for the clevis, using the hole closest to the worm screw gives more lift but a slightly heavier clutch, the outer hole = less lift and lighter clutch, these are later versions, you probably have the arm with one outer hole. Glad you like the videos
Yep, aware of the actuator versions. I've done and checked pretty much every external to the clutch over the years. I've had the clutch out to fix the starter spring tension (worked a treat) but just put the clutch back as it came apart. I'm aware that there are various assembly mistakes out there (including one on the manual). So time to have it out and check it properly. (This winter) Determined to get to the bottom of it, or die trying.
@@otooled Oh yeah last year or the year before I was having issues with the clutch on one of my bikes and went through just about everything to get it right, what I replaced last of all fixed all the problems, it was just a cheap eBay clutch cable that was binding, I never though a cable could cause all the problems until I replaced it with a brand name more expensive one, I never replaced it to start with as it was new so never thought it could have been that, how I was wrong.
Is that the same engine they put in the Triumph?
QH👍👍👍
If I cant get the clutch into first gear, what would you say the problem is. From most likely to least likely. Thank you if anyone knows and can help. Yamaha xs650
Sorry I missed this comment, did you get it fixed? If not, can you cycle through the gears from 2nd to 5th and then back down to neutral with no issues? If you can then its not the gear selector arm so the first thing to look at would be the shift cam, there are several pins that the shift shaft connect with, one of these may be broken. You will need to remove the clutch cover and clutch basket, that's the first thing I'd be looking at, if that's all intact then the next step for me would be a engine strip down to check the drum, selector arms and guide pins.
Can you tell me why my Kickstarter will turn my inner clutch hub but it won’t turn my crank?
Hi Eric It could be an incorrectly adjusted clutch from the left hand casing adjuster, a frayed cable preventing the clutch to re-engage, or Incorrectly installed clutch plates (maybe two steel plates together). Have you recently done anything to the clutch? The adjuster is the most common fault.
The kickstarter drives via the clutch. Pull the clutch in and you can't kickstart the bike. Consequently, if your clutch isn't engaging for any number of reasons the bike won't kick over.