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Model Railroad Weathering: Fast, Easy, Inexpensive!
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2024
- Welcome Back! Weathering and details can add so much to your models, even the least expensive brands. In this video, we use low cost items to quickly transform a budget rail car into a layout ready
First, we take thin wire, found easily in junk electronics, staples, a dress shirt collar stay, and wheel weights from the tire shop. All items where found around the house.
Next, we fashion these items into coupler cut levers, brake air hoses, brake rigging, and air lines.
Finally, using the least expensive paints from the local arts and crafts store, the entire model is weathered inside and out! This particular boxcar had a metal weight as a floor so I had to scribe and paint a "wood" boxcar floor.
A quick dusting with chalk was used on this car as well!
Use these techniques to upgrade older railcars from Athearn, Roundhouse, Tyco, Model Power, Bachmann, Etc.
Please feel free to leave any comments or questions and, as always, thanks for watching and please like, share, and subscribe!
Filmed on the Southern Pacific Burbank Branch HO Scale Switching Layout.
What do you use to make the washes?
I used alcohol/India ink/acrylic paint and water. Experiment on a cheap model to find what works for you. My goal here is fast and effective.
And thank you for watching and commenting!
Apartment Model Railroader Thanks, that golden west boxcar turned out really nice.
Thanks!
Great weathering techniques !!! This is the first time I have seen anyone weather the inside of a Boxcar, I recently tried weathering a car, I used different techniques on each side and they bother turned out pretty good. I did weather the floor, now I will go back and do the rest of the interior. Thanks for the video !!!
I’m envious!👍🏻
Turned out great. Thanks for sharing
Wow! Your car looks fantastic. I didn't know that you could detail the underside of the frame. Great ideas. I'm gonna do that on the next freight car that I weather. Also, for trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
Thanks for the comment!
Glad I found this. Thank you for the great detail!
A great video. Especially loved the way you did the piping underneath the car. So easy and yet very realistic. Goods one!
Thanks for the comments Andrew!
A spay clear flat acrylic will keep the chalk dust from rubbing off if preferred
Yes! You can also use it as a base coat before you get started. Thanks for the comment!
Excellent job ! Thank you for this demo video 🙂
I've found steel music wire (0.025 inch) to be a better option for the brake connecting rods, as they remain straight. Brass wire can be used for brake piping as that has more complex bends.
Sounds like a great idea!
I also have a Golden West Service boxcar that is patched out with SP markings. I put masking tape on ALL of the patched out areas on the boxcar. (It was hard, but I did it.) Then my friend weathered it for me and it came out perfect. It gave the appearance of just coming out of the shop with an applied patch job. Love those patch jobs! Happy railroading!!!!!!!
Right on Thanks!
I am just so impressed with how he is doing this with only the craft acrylics. I've made videos and I know how difficult it is to make a decent instructional vid. These are excellent and I really hope there are more to come. -R
Thank you for the compliments!
You can also find wheel weights by the side of the road. Be careful you dont get hit by a vehcile when you pick them up, though. SAFETY FIRST.
amazing!
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Joe, another great video buddy. That car came out awesome. I think this is my new favorite channel. Take care , Dave .
Thanks Dave, much appreciated!
Nice! Thanks.
great video ! informative and practical, and it looks so easy too, many thanks
Absolutely. Thank you!
Nice job, made it look easy... Thanks for the tips and great video!!!
Thanks for watching njRR!
I really like your weathering videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ron!
again..as I said before in another video..what a feel for realism.. Tom
Thanks Tom, much appreciated!
Fantastic techniques and a time saver. How about a chemical tank car video.
Thanks Richard! I do have an Atlas tank car, and it needs some weathering. I'll put something together. Thanks for the suggestion!
very well done.
Thanks CSX3026!
Great video. However I wouldn't recommend using excessive weight like that, especially if you run on club layouts as the weight will cause the axle ends to eat through the side frames of the trucks and fail. That's why I stopped adding excessive weight and stick to NMRA weight standards.
Weight the crap outta that thing and eat the trucks like the real roads do!
Have you done any passenger cars
Unfortunately I haven't! Thanks for the question!
I have to replace the frame on my custom layouts no. 1 she rolled off the top of the grade and almost took her sister no. 2 with her, destroyed her tender as well, my layout is a mix of a proper shortline and a heritage railway, but the grade is horrible to wreck on, took no. 8 out of service for two months and horrible damaged the first 3 cars she fell off going up hill, but no. 1 was at the top when she wrecked and went down the whole mountain and landed on a tressle
It looks great BUT in oder to habe boxcars look real I feel that first would have to place on the ends of the boxcar the decals corresponding to the code and car number.
Then yes go ahead with the weathering.
Looks great!!
Thanks for the comments Ricardo!
The ends of the cars already have the reporting mark and number decals. Look at 5:15, for example. It's small but, if you look at photos of the real thing (e.g., on RR Picture Archive), it looks reasonably accurate.
The Acrylic paint you use,is it modelling paint or normal ,artists acrylic paint?
The cheap stuff from Wal-Mart haha
Apartment Model Railroader Lol,well,we don’t have Wal-Mart this side of the pond but pretty much the same thing yeah lol
We have a a shop
called The Range which is pretty much the same thing and has a similar style logo.The reason I was asking is I’ve got some artist acrylics (cheaper ones) in tubes,could they be used?
When I started I sampled the paint first on the underside of a junk railcar. I also experimented with different dilutions
I see two problems with the weights: 1. Too much. 2. By stacking the weights you raise the car's center of gravity, which can cause operational problems.
Thanks for the comments Robert! To each, his own. You can always adjust to suit your operational needs. Happy holidays!
Don’t cut off the Kadee coupler “hoses“ if you plan on using their feature to uncouple your cars. 😉
Why would anyone age the underside? You can’t see it and nobody else can?
In this video, what type of paint do you use for Weathering ?? Acrylic paint or oil paint or other types of paint ??
All paint used is acrylic paint, diluted with water. Thanks!
Did he get anonymous to narrate lol