I've had a pair of those for many years. My Dad actually made them years ago and used them all his life. Since he passed on now, I still use them for changing the oil in my vehicles and for doing under vehicle repairs. They are safe and solid. The pair I bought from the big box store, I ended up throwing away because they weren't safe anymore. These will last me the rest of my life. Mine are solid wood with stops screwed to the front so the vehicle doesn't go over the top when you drive onto them. Mine are also tapered so I can drive lower vehicles onto them without rubbing the bumper on them. I also glued rubber on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you drive up onto them.
These are hollow inside. The ones I made are way better, can hold a semi on them and I will never have to worry about them breaking. I used 6 2x6's, cut them at an angle as this guy did and used 4 12 inch bolts to hold them together. Mine are wider than his, heavier and much more durable.
Due to the weight of the car the ramps are pressed against te pavement. i Don't think they will fall over. However, making them wider than the wheels would make them extremely stable.
Its a good idea, but if i was making these i would ply sevral peices of this timber together flat ways (with glue aswell) and cut the ramp from what would then essentially be a solid wood block instead of this sort of box section construction. Probably have them a bit wider aswell to reduce the risk of rolling. Maybe thats OTT but if your going to be lying under tons of metal its better to be safe than sorry. For sure its great idea and really handy to get the whole front end up but id still have a jack under there to take some of the weight
I made a set of these probably 40 years ago. I made the ramp detachable. They will support the heaviest of vehicles. My ramp portion is built like his, but the main portion is stacked two by twelves. Having removable ramps, gives me more flexibility doing repairs.
Similar but much easier and stronger ramps can be made (with a chainsaw) by simply flat stacking rough 2x8s or 10s, cut off in two-inch steps or longer as required...a kind of staircase ramp. I recommend to staircase them on the other end too, but steeper, for stability. Simply nail together and make a 2x4 stop nailed flat on the end on top. Strong enough for anything, including big trucks. Rough but effective.
Yes, get as hard a wood as possible and wider than your tires. The design in the video is just too weak to be safe. Any force other than absolute vertical and those ramps could buckle with even a very light weight car on it. But solid wood, screwed together, no problem
I made 4 of those and used them for 30+ years. Used galvanized 3.5" spiral nails. They were easy to move around, stand them up on the ramp end put your arm over the upside to fit in your armpit ;-) clamp them, lift and walk. The thing is not that heavy when lifted this way. Wish I could demonstrate, instead of describing.
Dude, you nailed it! I mean, I can't believe you actually used shuttering nails for a job like this, and you are very lucky to have survived using them. In fact, with that level of luck, go buy a lottery ticket and get yourself a proper set of steel ramps with the winnings.
So please, please, please, can you tell me , how is te live after death ? is there more stupids like this? crushed by a car because they used cheap wood ramps ?
Ok, эта шняга должна быть раза в два шире и также иметь опоры по бокам для защиты от опрокидывания. А так конструкция надежная, доска более чем толстая для такого веса.
Yeah, I made a similar set but used a solid core and lag bolts from one side to the other. Mine were homemade because I needed a longer slope than normal as my car is low to the ground. But goes without saying that this is fine to elevate the vehicle, you still need proper jackstands to support it afterwards. These here are a bit risky, may be a bit too narrow and the assembly is definitely dangerous, nails are not adequate to hold them together. At a bare minimum I would at least used screws and even then screws can shear under stress.
MY dad has a similar pair of these back in the 60's and no doubt they were made many years before we were born . I have also made several pair back in the 80's.. and those who think they are dangerous simply dont understand physics. They will never collapse or tip over ..not in hundred or more years unless you're just stupid or careless about driving onto them way off center. .
I had steel ramps before. Besides the inconvenience of storing those monsters, I actually had one slip when trying to drive a car up on it. I'll stick to hydraulic floor jacks and jack stands.
One technique from keeping metal ramps from slipping is to thread a long strap through the holes such ramps typically have. Then run the strap straight back so your rear wheels are on the straps as your front climb the ramps.
What a bunch of whiners in the comments section, a bunch of do nothin' couch potatoes I'll bet. I've been under my car on wooden ramps rougher than these many times & lived to tell the tale. I'd sooner wood than recycled plastic, which is what commercial ones are made of these days. This guy is thinking & doing, workin' with what he's got. Kudos good sir Godspeed.
Antes de meterse debajo del carro se deben de cumplir con varias cosas más sobre seguridad., utilizar TRIPIES de metal y colocarlos debajo de la suspensión,usar topes en las llantas traseras,no niños cerca,etc.
Put the stop blocks further from the edge. If you hit the stop blocks as they are shown with too much momentum, you will tip the ramps over and damage the car and get stuck. The front edge of the tire should be stopped back at least 4 to 6 inches.
Mark G My thoughts as well. I would have put the stop blocks about 6 inches further to the rear, and probably made the top of the ramp a bit longer. Other than that, these are actually much safer and stronger than most of the cheapy metal or plastic ramps, although a bit heavier.
Also those stop plates are eventually going to fall off. Every time the tires bump into them it pushes the stop block out and pulls on the nails. Not a good design there.
@@mjenx86 No. The tire rides over the top and puts minimal forward force, more downward force as the tire tries to climb over the stop. The stop blocks should be across the top and 4 inches from the end. The axle should be about 8 inches from the end or the block will tip forward on braking.
Do not understand why some people think everything should be made out of wood when if possible? The car is steel you think maybe the ramp should be strong steel as well, and stable, especially if you intend to put your soul under it? Wood can split and fail unexpectedly while steel has rather long elongation before breaking. No way wood is less cost either. Unless you use the old rotted stuff along side your garage. Do your loved ones a favor and go buy a real jack and jack stands made out of metal.
Set up a mirror on the ground so you can see exactly where you are as you climb the ramp. Helps in not overshooting the stop on top (don't ask me how I know). By the way, I use inexpensive plastic ramps that do the job quite well.
Do you think could be this more safe www.tradeshopitalia.com/37609-large/2-supporti-cavalletti-regolabile-per-auto-supporto-cavalletto-einhell-bt-as-2000.jpg
EM - I would actually prefer a wider base myself but its hardly “dangerous” as is. In fact, his ramps are as wider or wider than the average jack stand base, and it wold take an awful lot of side force to push a car off of a pair of jack stands setting on a concrete driveway. Still, he did make some mistakes. For example I would have glue the joints prior to nailing them. Also he wasted a lot of wood and made a lot of extra cuts for himself by not just cutting two tapered sections from one longer piece of wood. Just one angled cut down the middle and you have two identical taper cut pieces with no waste.
SLOBeachboy i get what your saying but if he would of just made some support on the bottom of them, it would prevent them from tipping. I’ve seen something like this in person and watched a car fall on a guy. Completely made me view car supports really differently.
After buying a regular set of metal ramps that were reinforced and then a set that had detachable ramps, I made a set of wooden ramps. Both metal ramps bent, when I drove up them when they weren’t exactly dead on straight. I built a wooden set and have been using these for the last 20 years. They don’t have to be exactly straight, they don’t bend or break. They give me me a 5 1/4” lift, enough to change oil and other minor things. If I need higher I use my jack and stands. Thanks! Jim
Look guys! Someone finally "invented" that thing we have all been needing to lift our vehicles up to get work done! Now if only there was a more reliable, affordable, easily accessible way to get ramps just like those..... This guy is an absolute "genius".
Very solid build inter and outer will take 500lb pressure per inch.. That will hold a 32 ton lorry I have try it . I should be out of hospital in 6 weeks time...
Tony Suley, please DO NOT try this. it is extremely dangerous. if you want to use wood as a car ramp then please use some SOLID lumber. such as 4x6 or 4x8.
а что, собственную машину ежедневно обслуживают что ли? Хорошо, если раз в год в теплых странах, ну два раза как в России, при переходе с зимы на лето и обратно. Всё! Для редкого использования и такое сойдёт.
This system won't crash and is safe, everyone who understands a little bit mechanics knows it, shuttering nails are not a problem since they do not maintain the car, what maintains the car is the wood submitted to longitudinal force there is no lateral stress that's all and that's what we use in construction : wood to support extremely heavy machines, you could even glue the wood and it would have been fine too, for the same reason : THERE IS NOT LATERAL STRESS OR FORCE ACTING IN THE X AXIS ALL is happening in the Z axis. Please, people who are not convinced wake up and go and open a book!!!!
www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2860&adid=22222222228017563421&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60968599608&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-87559257888&wl5=9011274&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=19526658&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4uuzqTRv4LNYcx3cr373jPr2USemj7euVL67eEDv-fnZDIRuJFQWdFxoCXsYQAvD_BwE. Sure you can lol
I do wonder why use wood when metal ones are so cheap but reading the comments here people are drama queens. Remember your floors in your house are built of wood the ramp is plenty strong enough.
Зачем? Для каких работ? Для замены масла не подойдёт, для ремонта ходовой надо снимать колёса почти во всех случаях. Можно просто произвести визуальный осмотр, но и это опасно.
You all should have more respect for your elders if you were my son and I heard you speaking to someone like that you would need a major operation to get my foot out of your backside.
Made mine out of 2 x 10 and laid them flat. Yes they are a little heavy but they do not slide like metal ramps and don't crack like plastic ramps. Cost under $20 in lumber, glued and screwed. I would never use nails on something like this. They are solid and work GREAT. Today's cars have fewer locations to jack from and place jack stands. Jacks and jack stands can and do slip which is very unnerving. These wooden ramps are great to do quick oil changes and they store easily out of the way. Painted them with some old exterior house paint so they will last.
Awesome brilliant! First person to build DIY workshop ramps! And: - - too narrow for safety - stop blocks too close to the end for safety - too steep for the material used - heavier than commercially available. Also probably more expensive and bigger.
I made a set and realised what a load of rubbish. I went on to make a second pair what was not as steep only to find that any type of dampness on the tyre's it just slips on the wood on the way up. But on the up side the wood kept my workshop nice and warm ☺
Glue would have helped. Solid wood throughout the ramp would have helped. Screws would have helped. Painting it red would have made it much safer. This would be fine for a lawnmower. People, don’t do this.
I designed a set of car ramps based of this video, it was my girlfriend who said i should build some instead of buy some so thats what i plan on doing. Got the design in autocad and everything ready to go for tomorrow and im very excited to get cutting and making. Thank you for the design idea. only things i changed was how long the base extends out past the angled part of the ramp, a slight angle on the back stop so the weight is more over the middle of the stands and mice will be made out of 1 inch thick pieces with a 9.125 inch base to drive up so it extra stable since my car rims are 17 x 7.
I made some of these over 35 years ago with less wood than these. Had Suburbans and other large vehicles up on them for all that time. These are way better than what you can buy because they lift higher. Use 2 x 12s for the wood.
Where I live they cost about 100 if u find wide and long enough for wide tire and low bumper, so yeah it's worth it to do it yourself, but not this guys method, but simple lying them flat on top of each other. This guy wanted to save material or not sure what's his goal was but I wouldn't use these
I made some from wood 25 years ago. The only cutting I did was on the length. 12 6' - 2x8 lumber boards. 2 cut to 5 1/2'. 2 cut to 5'. 2 cut to 4 1/2'. 2 cut 4'. 2 cut 3 1/2'. 1 of each size laid on top of one another and screwed together with countersunk wood screws. Worked just like it was 2 solid cuts of wood. Seems like I used a small piece to each ramp to act as a stabilizer on the back of each ramp. And they could be used on nearly any surface. Even in the yard. Try that with a metal ramp, and the weight of the front end will drive it into the ground.
To the critics that are saying wood is weak let me tell you something they use wood stools to hold up movable houses they use wood to hold up railway tracks
Lol well, I never said I was in favor of it, but it never fails that there are multiple people who "know" exactly what is wrong with every video that comes out. I'm not sure the best way to build them but I probably wouldn't drive my truck up on those.
Just curious. What engineering degree does one need to have in order to see these are dangerous? Tip over on the side, crushed under weight or drive over the ramp. Duh, yeah, let me go to college for 8 years to figure that out.
Cost of the wood + time + safety.....Just buy metal ramps for about $50-75....They will last a life time....I know someone who was crushed to death working on a car...
Proper ramps are actually even less - you can get a pair of 2.5tonne rated metal ramps with tread and sides/wheel guides from an Autoparts store or ebay for around $30-$40.
MANY times you need to remove the wheels to make important repairs (brakes, suspension, steering, etc), as well as have the vehicle lifted AND LEVEL - that is why we have JACK STANDS that load at SPECIFIED LOCATIONS identified in the vehicle's documentation. BE SMART
Built something similar to this about 28 years ago but longer and wider to handle 32,000 pound trucks. No air space, solid stack of 2x12 lumber, with 45 degree cut on each step so they don't kick forward as you climb up with a rear wheel drive. Added a 2x4 as the last step (square cut) so you know when to stop. Gave me a good additional 8 inches for oil changes and also used them on the rear duals (inside wheel) for installing snow chains (on the outside tire) without having to jack the truck up. I put a nice heavy duty handle on the side for carrying them. (garage door handle) The company is still using them and they have not rotted because they are stored inside. I also added marks on the garage floor so I could set them in place and not have to fool around if I wanted to close the door in the winter. IOW, exact same location each time, leaving room to work. It's not rocket science. Truck mechanics have been doing this for decades.
@@mptrader1620 No pictures, other than whatever you can visualize in your mind. I used the width of the tires as my starting point, which on my trucks was about 11 inches. Laid the lumber flat and figured out how high I wanted to go. From there it was simple math that each board should be a few inches different than the next. In my case the bottom plank was about 4 ft long and each of the next ones was about 6 inches shorter. The handles were from a garage door so fairly sturdy, and easily available at any hardware store. Guessing each ramp weighs around 40 pounds. As I said, 30 years later they are still in use and with a fleet of 12 oil trucks, they are used on a regular basis.
obscur156 come on people,,,,,,,lighten up and learn to live a little more dangerously like this guy. you all act like you're afraid to have a car fall on you .
If you make those ramps too steep the spoiler area under the bumper will get damaged or even torn out when the car goes up or down the ramps . The ramp must be long and gentle .
andrademeza fifty bucks gets you a decent set of ramps. Perfectly capable of supporting a vehicle. It’s idiots putting lateral load on the ramps that causes them to bend or warp. Operator error, not product flaw. I have never seen even the cheapest of metal ones have problems when properly used
a leadpen is way better than an inkpen. more accurate, and shouldnt the nailgun be adjusted to punch in the nails properly so you dont have to use a hammer afterwards?
Markers are used by people who never do exact work. A number of the people making videos here are uncapable and have no knowledge of measuring, marking, cutting, drilling, welding ….. I could go on and on! All they can do is push the button to take pictures/make videos. I would be ashamed to show some of the stuff that some others make here. Rotton wood, rusty steel...just paint over it and present it. We are living in a world today where people do not take pride in what they do.
have you ever heard a real nail gun ...they bang ...not a zip noise thats an auto feeder drive ...dry liners use them ...hes only knocking it tighter dont mean i condone this video ....its a big no ...ramps are certified ,the only your certifying doing this is eventually ,your own death !!!
Cut your boards longer and you would get two pieces per cut and eliminate all the wasted drop. But regardless, this is not an economical solution in the least. You can buy a set of car ramps in the US for less than $20...
Thats 6 mins 31 seconds i will never get back in my life. Dont use them completely unsafe would be safer cutting them to 2ft lengths and nailing them together. Them jack the car up and use them as blocks under the wheels!!
Keijo Viitanen because he’s under a truck supported by hollow wooden structures. And he’s supported by the end grain (the weak part of the wood). Those things will fracture and splinter over time and eventually fail. He is an idiot for getting under that truck. Had he made them solid and had all wood mounted horizontally, then he would be fine.
It could use some more though, but at least you left a spot in the back to store your mary jane. Oh and you could buy them cheaper than what you paid for the 2X10's
Zput roofing shingle face down on bottom to keep ramp from slipping. Put roofing shingle face up on incline to prevent wheel from slipping. 100% guaranteed.
This has got to be the best idea for raising a car to work underneath mechanically. I will be making one but using birch plywood with center beam made of dimensional lumber for strength. Keep the great videos coming Dr.Hacker. Peace too VF
if this guy reads all these comments, when he is through he will be able to build the absolute best most flawless set of car ramps know to modern man. and i bet there will still be complaints . but thanks u tube,,,,,,,,for all the fun and laughs this video has afforded me...
Here in America, you can buy ramps that are lighter, safer, and much cheaper than buying the wood material. Not even including the time wasted to build them.
i have some nice steel ramps,but i use my floor jack and jack stands 90% of the time,since it is super fast and safe imo...plus you can lift cars up exactly where you need them to be...
People, DO NOT BUILD THIS! This is very dangerous, buy only ramps designed and tested for cars. Can't tell you how many stories I have heard about people being crushed by cars using stuff like this.
Alert for those not thinking outside the box: I used to laugh when my father had home made ramps (only 2 by "X" 3 to 4 wide, not with the upper and lower caps). I now only own DIY versions. Why? Because I can make them at any angle/length I want. Do you have a car with 3.5" ground clearance? Fine. Build a very shallow sloped and long ramp. I built a set that would raise the front of a car, AND have a second set of ramps that would just slide under the side of the car for the rear. This allowed me to get all 4 wheels up at the same time. I do like the wheels as an add on! I agree, music sucks on this video :)
I've had a pair of those for many years. My Dad actually made them years ago and used them all his life. Since he passed on now, I still use them for changing the oil in my vehicles and for doing under vehicle repairs. They are safe and solid. The pair I bought from the big box store, I ended up throwing away because they weren't safe anymore. These will last me the rest of my life. Mine are solid wood with stops screwed to the front so the vehicle doesn't go over the top when you drive onto them. Mine are also tapered so I can drive lower vehicles onto them without rubbing the bumper on them. I also glued rubber on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you drive up onto them.
Nice job if you have time. I just bought a heavy steel set from the landfill thrift shop for $5
These are hollow inside. The ones I made are way better, can hold a semi on them and I will never have to worry about them breaking. I used 6 2x6's, cut them at an angle as this guy did and used 4 12 inch bolts to hold them together. Mine are wider than his, heavier and much more durable.
Jay Miller I would never get under a car held up by a hollow wooden structure. This guy is a total hack job.... now his channel name makes sense.
@@youtubeisbroken241 I wouldn't put my bike on his ramps. I said previously that i used 6 2x6's, I meant 6 2x10's. they are sandwiched together.
Dad made a set way back in the 60s but made them much wider a lot safer
Due to the weight of the car the ramps are pressed against te pavement. i Don't think they will fall over. However, making them wider than the wheels would make them extremely stable.
Ok, I tend to agree however then why not secure all parts with screws? PS- and do not use them with wet tires!
Well then he did a good job for the future of humanity
Great hack. I added shingles on inclined surfaces so wheels would not spin climbing incline. Worked great.
Made some of these back in t he 70's. Once you make and use them once you find out how heavy they are. Then where do you store them?
Damn! The video must have been cut short before the 'awesome, brilliant' part!
Very good; but why bother, when you can buy metal ones for £10? Then use the wheels to make a rolling inspection bed?
Its a good idea, but if i was making these i would ply sevral peices of this timber together flat ways (with glue aswell) and cut the ramp from what would then essentially be a solid wood block instead of this sort of box section construction. Probably have them a bit wider aswell to reduce the risk of rolling.
Maybe thats OTT but if your going to be lying under tons of metal its better to be safe than sorry.
For sure its great idea and really handy to get the whole front end up but id still have a jack under there to take some of the weight
I made a set of these probably 40 years ago. I made the ramp detachable. They will support the heaviest of vehicles. My ramp portion is built like his, but the main portion is stacked two by twelves. Having removable ramps, gives me more flexibility doing repairs.
Helped me make a decision to never by a cordless nailer!
I have that same nailer and mine apparently works much better. He probably doesn't have the thing adjusted right.
Ive got the same dewalt 1st fix nailer mine hits home every time. Just needs to adjust the hammer depth.
He got the combo kit. It includes a hammer with the nailer.
Seems like screws are in order for this project.
Similar but much easier and stronger ramps can be made (with a chainsaw) by simply flat stacking rough 2x8s or 10s, cut off in two-inch steps or longer as required...a kind of staircase ramp. I recommend to staircase them on the other end too, but steeper, for stability. Simply nail together and make a 2x4 stop nailed flat on the end on top. Strong enough for anything, including big trucks. Rough but effective.
Herman Teunissen yes flat and wider woods it's good idea
Yes, get as hard a wood as possible and wider than your tires. The design in the video is just too weak to be safe. Any force other than absolute vertical and those ramps could buckle with even a very light weight car on it. But solid wood, screwed together, no problem
My same thought
Good idea.
I made 4 of those and used them for 30+ years. Used galvanized 3.5" spiral nails. They were easy to move around, stand them up on the ramp end put your arm over the upside to fit in your armpit ;-) clamp them, lift and walk. The thing is not that heavy when lifted this way. Wish I could demonstrate, instead of describing.
Dude, you nailed it! I mean, I can't believe you actually used shuttering nails for a job like this, and you are very lucky to have survived using them. In fact, with that level of luck, go buy a lottery ticket and get yourself a proper set of steel ramps with the winnings.
What the fuck are shuttering nails, and why do they fit in a gun?
Oh my God, the killer ramps!!!!!!
Nice Job.
I built these. I died after the third time using them.
Rip
Iknow. I had to bury you. And your stupid ramps.
So please, please, please, can you tell me , how is te live after death ? is there more stupids like this? crushed by a car because they used cheap wood ramps ?
😂😂😂
GOSTH EXIST !!
Ok, эта шняга должна быть раза в два шире и также иметь опоры по бокам для защиты от опрокидывания. А так конструкция надежная, доска более чем толстая для такого веса.
pfz на бок завалится и ни кто уже не поможет
Yeah, I made a similar set but used a solid core and lag bolts from one side to the other. Mine were homemade because I needed a longer slope than normal as my car is low to the ground. But goes without saying that this is fine to elevate the vehicle, you still need proper jackstands to support it afterwards. These here are a bit risky, may be a bit too narrow and the assembly is definitely dangerous, nails are not adequate to hold them together. At a bare minimum I would at least used screws and even then screws can shear under stress.
MY dad has a similar pair of these back in the 60's and no doubt they were made many years before we were born . I have also made several pair back in the 80's.. and those who think they are dangerous simply dont understand physics. They will never collapse or tip over ..not in hundred or more years unless you're just stupid or careless about driving onto them way off center. .
Metal ramps available at the auto parts store are lighter, safer and less expensive.
Kildie Rezrpt nobody buys metal anymore. Get Rhino Ramps
I still have the steel ones I bought 20 years ago. Im happy knowing that they are easily recyclable.
@@luptonpittman6520 i saw the news some of them broken! (Plastic)
@@TN-bm6dh Yes sir. Also distort.
True I have them
I had steel ramps before. Besides the inconvenience of storing those monsters, I actually had one slip when trying to drive a car up on it. I'll stick to hydraulic floor jacks and jack stands.
One technique from keeping metal ramps from slipping is to thread a long strap through the holes such ramps typically have. Then run the strap straight back so your rear wheels are on the straps as your front climb the ramps.
Simple, as a kid i would have to stand with my foot at the back of the ramp while mum or sis did the same to stop the slipping. Good times lol.
I wouldn’t let the neighbors dog walk under that vehicle. That shit is about to fall over!
What a bunch of whiners in the comments section, a bunch of do nothin' couch potatoes I'll bet. I've been under my car on wooden ramps rougher than these many times & lived to tell the tale. I'd sooner wood than recycled plastic, which is what commercial ones are made of these days. This guy is thinking & doing, workin' with what he's got. Kudos good sir Godspeed.
Antes de meterse debajo del carro se deben de cumplir con varias cosas más sobre seguridad., utilizar TRIPIES de metal y colocarlos debajo de la suspensión,usar topes en las llantas traseras,no niños cerca,etc.
Existen unos de ptr mas practicos ,resistentes y seguros
Put the stop blocks further from the edge. If you hit the stop blocks as they are shown with too much momentum, you will tip the ramps over and damage the car and get stuck. The front edge of the tire should be stopped back at least 4 to 6 inches.
Mark G My thoughts as well. I would have put the stop blocks about 6 inches further to the rear, and probably made the top of the ramp a bit longer. Other than that, these are actually much safer and stronger than most of the cheapy metal or plastic ramps, although a bit heavier.
Also those stop plates are eventually going to fall off. Every time the tires bump into them it pushes the stop block out and pulls on the nails. Not a good design there.
@@mjenx86 No. The tire rides over the top and puts minimal forward force, more downward force as the tire tries to climb over the stop.
The stop blocks should be across the top and 4 inches from the end. The axle should be about 8 inches from the end or the block will tip forward on braking.
Do not understand why some people think everything should be made out of wood when if possible? The car is steel you think maybe the ramp should be strong steel as well, and stable, especially if you intend to put your soul under it? Wood can split and fail unexpectedly while steel has rather long elongation before breaking. No way wood is less cost either. Unless you use the old rotted stuff along side your garage. Do your loved ones a favor and go buy a real jack and jack stands made out of metal.
Set up a mirror on the ground so you can see exactly where you are as you climb the ramp. Helps in not overshooting the stop on top (don't ask me how I know). By the way, I use inexpensive plastic ramps that do the job quite well.
Too narrow. Get a trolley Jack and stands!
These will rot and break. Darwin awards anyone?
They need more of a support base. I wouldn’t use those even if I was desperate.
Do you think could be this more safe
www.tradeshopitalia.com/37609-large/2-supporti-cavalletti-regolabile-per-auto-supporto-cavalletto-einhell-bt-as-2000.jpg
chicken
EM - I would actually prefer a wider base myself but its hardly “dangerous” as is. In fact, his ramps are as wider or wider than the average jack stand base, and it wold take an awful lot of side force to push a car off of a pair of jack stands setting on a concrete driveway.
Still, he did make some mistakes. For example I would have glue the joints prior to nailing them. Also he wasted a lot of wood and made a lot of extra cuts for himself by not just cutting two tapered sections from one longer piece of wood. Just one angled cut down the middle and you have two identical taper cut pieces with no waste.
yard limit I’ve seen a car fall on a guy before. No chicken here. Just a man with common sense and a brain between the ears.
SLOBeachboy i get what your saying but if he would of just made some support on the bottom of them, it would prevent them from tipping. I’ve seen something like this in person and watched a car fall on a guy. Completely made me view car supports really differently.
After buying a regular set of metal ramps that were reinforced and then a set that had detachable ramps, I made a set of wooden ramps. Both metal ramps bent, when I drove up them when they weren’t exactly dead on straight. I built a wooden set and have been using these for the last 20 years. They don’t have to be exactly straight, they don’t bend or break. They give me me a 5 1/4” lift, enough to change oil and other minor things. If I need higher I use my jack and stands. Thanks! Jim
You should build yourself a big dopey looking coffin next, you'll need it.
This was actually the opening scenes from an episode of Casualty
I think he should at least use jack stands so his wife doesn't come back from vacation and find a skeleton trapped under his car...
Impressive lights on a mini van. The safety gloves are a nice touch.
The only thing is I would make it wider but really nice build !!
Look guys! Someone finally "invented" that thing we have all been needing to lift our vehicles up to get work done! Now if only there was a more reliable, affordable, easily accessible way to get ramps just like those..... This guy is an absolute "genius".
you cant burn them tho
Very solid build inter and outer will take 500lb pressure per inch.. That will hold a 32 ton lorry I have try it . I should be out of hospital in 6 weeks time...
Tony Suley, please DO NOT try this. it is extremely dangerous. if you want to use wood as a car ramp then please use some SOLID lumber. such as 4x6 or 4x8.
Lol lol hahaha 😂
Top Man
very funny. .
СРОЧНО переделать.на таких гвоздиках нельзя.рассыплется после нескольких заездов.совет.лучше из цельного куска дерева сделать.но эту переделать
а что, собственную машину ежедневно обслуживают что ли? Хорошо, если раз в год в теплых странах, ну два раза как в России, при переходе с зимы на лето и обратно. Всё! Для редкого использования и такое сойдёт.
This system won't crash and is safe, everyone who understands a little bit mechanics knows it, shuttering nails are not a problem since they do not maintain the car, what maintains the car is the wood submitted to longitudinal force there is no lateral stress that's all and that's what we use in construction : wood to support extremely heavy machines, you could even glue the wood and it would have been fine too, for the same reason : THERE IS NOT LATERAL STRESS OR FORCE ACTING IN THE X AXIS ALL is happening in the Z axis. Please, people who are not convinced wake up and go and open a book!!!!
The little wheels are insane clever good thinking bro u may also get the mini van a new clutch
They have been around for ever and are called car ramps you can buy them anywhere for a few quid including car boot sales.
Ok jones fire pts viva f
Can make them much cheaper than buying them
Too expensive
www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2860&adid=22222222228017563421&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60968599608&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-87559257888&wl5=9011274&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=19526658&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4uuzqTRv4LNYcx3cr373jPr2USemj7euVL67eEDv-fnZDIRuJFQWdFxoCXsYQAvD_BwE. Sure you can lol
I do wonder why use wood when metal ones are so cheap but reading the comments here people are drama queens. Remember your floors in your house are built of wood the ramp is plenty strong enough.
Зачем? Для каких работ? Для замены масла не подойдёт, для ремонта ходовой надо снимать колёса почти во всех случаях. Можно просто произвести визуальный осмотр, но и это опасно.
No way I would use those. Held together with nails!
It's plenty enough reinforced. No need to worry about the nails.
I tend to agree but my dad had a rickety old set he used for years. Hard to believe he died of old age
I made some of these over 50 years ago and got rid of them shortly after that. It's way too easy to have a car fall off the side of the ramp.
lol if you drove off the ramps, isn't that you who's at fault?
make them a bit wider then the tire.
50 years ago? How old are you?
You all should have more respect for your elders if you were my son and I heard you speaking to someone like that you would need a major operation to get my foot out of your backside.
" fall off the side" .. read!
Made mine out of 2 x 10 and laid them flat. Yes they are a little heavy but they do not slide like metal ramps and don't crack like plastic ramps. Cost under $20 in lumber, glued and screwed. I would never use nails on something like this. They are solid and work GREAT. Today's cars have fewer locations to jack from and place jack stands. Jacks and jack stands can and do slip which is very unnerving. These wooden ramps are great to do quick oil changes and they store easily out of the way. Painted them with some old exterior house paint so they will last.
Awesome brilliant! First person to build DIY workshop ramps! And: -
- too narrow for safety
- stop blocks too close to the end for safety
- too steep for the material used
- heavier than commercially available. Also probably more expensive and bigger.
I made a set and realised what a load of rubbish. I went on to make a second pair what was not as steep only to find that any type of dampness on the tyre's it just slips on the wood on the way up. But on the up side the wood kept my workshop nice and warm ☺
Glue would have helped. Solid wood throughout the ramp would have helped. Screws would have helped. Painting it red would have made it much safer. This would be fine for a lawnmower.
People, don’t do this.
Я б под эту машину не полез б бы
зачем так рисковать?
А что будет упоры под задние колеса и все,не очкуйте
I designed a set of car ramps based of this video, it was my girlfriend who said i should build some instead of buy some so thats what i plan on doing. Got the design in autocad and everything ready to go for tomorrow and im very excited to get cutting and making. Thank you for the design idea. only things i changed was how long the base extends out past the angled part of the ramp, a slight angle on the back stop so the weight is more over the middle of the stands and mice will be made out of 1 inch thick pieces with a 9.125 inch base to drive up so it extra stable since my car rims are 17 x 7.
I made some of these over 35 years ago with less wood than these. Had Suburbans and other large vehicles up on them for all that time. These are way better than what you can buy because they lift higher. Use 2 x 12s for the wood.
There is nothing "brilliant" about this. Spending a day to build a pair of ramps you can buy online for $35.00 is idiotic.
Bought 2 sets of rhino ramps, the trip to Walmart was almost not worth it.
@@jaycarl1562 I've had the same set of rhino ramps for years, works great.
Where I live they cost about 100 if u find wide and long enough for wide tire and low bumper, so yeah it's worth it to do it yourself, but not this guys method, but simple lying them flat on top of each other. This guy wanted to save material or not sure what's his goal was but I wouldn't use these
Said the guy who never built anything with his own hands
@@Xy9d Nope, says the guy who knows the value of time.
like a ticket to haeven
make your wedges and screw 5 or 6 together. no voids. remove all side play in the wood.
Needs to be wider and more core support. If there is the slightest movement these will twist and crush you. Take caution build it right
And that's the story of how a youtube video crushed my arm.
1 year of oil change then death by a falling car smashed in the face 🤔🤔🤔i will give one of those to my exwife yes 🤩🤩
I made some from wood 25 years ago. The only cutting I did was on the length. 12 6' - 2x8 lumber boards. 2 cut to 5 1/2'. 2 cut to 5'. 2 cut to 4 1/2'. 2 cut 4'. 2 cut 3 1/2'. 1 of each size laid on top of one another and screwed together with countersunk wood screws. Worked just like it was 2 solid cuts of wood. Seems like I used a small piece to each ramp to act as a stabilizer on the back of each ramp. And they could be used on nearly any surface. Even in the yard. Try that with a metal ramp, and the weight of the front end will drive it into the ground.
To the critics that are saying wood is weak let me tell you something they use wood stools to hold up movable houses they use wood to hold up railway tracks
Ever notice how 90% of CZcams viewers suddenly become engineers by the end of a video? 🤔😁
Lol well, I never said I was in favor of it, but it never fails that there are multiple people who "know" exactly what is wrong with every video that comes out. I'm not sure the best way to build them but I probably wouldn't drive my truck up on those.
That's how fucking idiots get killed. They think they're immune to physics.
Just curious. What engineering degree does one need to have in order to see these are dangerous? Tip over on the side, crushed under weight or drive over the ramp. Duh, yeah, let me go to college for 8 years to figure that out.
Do I need to be an engineer to know these are dangerous? Well, anyway, I am an engineer and these are dangerous.
Nat The Project Guy Has
accident waiting to happen.
Block the back tires
Cost of the wood + time + safety.....Just buy metal ramps for about $50-75....They will last a life time....I know someone who was crushed to death working on a car...
RallyDon82
very dangerous
to high and to small. should be much wider... and no grip on the wood... metal ramps cost less then 50€
Proper ramps are actually even less - you can get a pair of 2.5tonne rated metal ramps with tread and sides/wheel guides from an Autoparts store or ebay for around $30-$40.
MANY times you need to remove the wheels to make important repairs (brakes, suspension, steering, etc), as well as have the vehicle lifted AND LEVEL - that is why we have JACK STANDS that load at SPECIFIED LOCATIONS identified in the vehicle's documentation. BE SMART
Built something similar to this about 28 years ago but longer and wider to handle 32,000 pound trucks. No air space, solid stack of 2x12 lumber, with 45 degree cut on each step so they don't kick forward as you climb up with a rear wheel drive. Added a 2x4 as the last step (square cut) so you know when to stop. Gave me a good additional 8 inches for oil changes and also used them on the rear duals (inside wheel) for installing snow chains (on the outside tire) without having to jack the truck up. I put a nice heavy duty handle on the side for carrying them. (garage door handle) The company is still using them and they have not rotted because they are stored inside. I also added marks on the garage floor so I could set them in place and not have to fool around if I wanted to close the door in the winter. IOW, exact same location each time, leaving room to work. It's not rocket science. Truck mechanics have been doing this for decades.
Why type a million words, then use IOW instead of "in other words"? Sorry, the internet just annoys me sometimes.
@@georgetpeppel2900 .. Why say it's a million when it's only 150 words? (give or take)
I made the ramp portion of mine removable so once it was up you had better access from the sides.
@rupe53 - do yo have a picture of this.
@@mptrader1620 No pictures, other than whatever you can visualize in your mind. I used the width of the tires as my starting point, which on my trucks was about 11 inches. Laid the lumber flat and figured out how high I wanted to go. From there it was simple math that each board should be a few inches different than the next. In my case the bottom plank was about 4 ft long and each of the next ones was about 6 inches shorter. The handles were from a garage door so fairly sturdy, and easily available at any hardware store. Guessing each ramp weighs around 40 pounds. As I said, 30 years later they are still in use and with a fleet of 12 oil trucks, they are used on a regular basis.
Not safe,at least it should be screwed not nailed. i would never go under my truck with these for sure.
obscur156 come on people,,,,,,,lighten up and learn to live a little more dangerously like this guy. you all act like you're afraid to have a car fall on you .
Loll
obscur156 screwed and glued
If you make those ramps too steep the spoiler area under the bumper will get damaged or even torn out when the car goes up or down the ramps . The ramp must be long and gentle .
John H à
I would not go under it even drunk, tight shiny and without glue, if you push for work you can crush them maybe they are full right?
So 300 dollars in wood and accesories to build 60 dollars car ramps available in any parts store . Looks brilliant ...
Or for $50 go buy steel ramps
Also glad everyone feels the same way i do about this silly idea
For 50 bucks yur getting shitty pot metal from china. Plz use proper steel ramps.
andrademeza fifty bucks gets you a decent set of ramps. Perfectly capable of supporting a vehicle. It’s idiots putting lateral load on the ramps that causes them to bend or warp.
Operator error, not product flaw. I have never seen even the cheapest of metal ones have problems when properly used
a leadpen is way better than an inkpen. more accurate, and shouldnt the nailgun be adjusted to punch in the nails properly so you dont have to use a hammer afterwards?
Or use screws...
Markers are used by people who never do exact work. A number of the people making videos here are uncapable and have no knowledge of measuring, marking, cutting, drilling, welding ….. I could go on and on! All they can do is push the button to take pictures/make videos. I would be ashamed to show some of the stuff that some others make here. Rotton wood, rusty steel...just paint over it and present it. We are living in a world today where people do not take pride in what they do.
have you ever heard a real nail gun ...they bang ...not a zip noise thats an auto feeder drive ...dry liners use them ...hes only knocking it tighter
dont mean i condone this video ....its a big no ...ramps are certified ,the only your certifying doing this is eventually ,your own death !!!
Using nails, to put the ramp together, is just a death trap!
Cut your boards longer and you would get two pieces per cut and eliminate all the wasted drop. But regardless, this is not an economical solution in the least. You can buy a set of car ramps in the US for less than $20...
Thats 6 mins 31 seconds i will never get back in my life. Dont use them completely unsafe would be safer cutting them to 2ft lengths and nailing them together. Them jack the car up and use them as blocks under the wheels!!
This is not safety
Why.?
Keijo Viitanen because he’s under a truck supported by hollow wooden structures. And he’s supported by the end grain (the weak part of the wood). Those things will fracture and splinter over time and eventually fail. He is an idiot for getting under that truck. Had he made them solid and had all wood mounted horizontally, then he would be fine.
Needed the ramps just to set the overkill spotlights alignment 😮
How much did they cost to make . Just purchased a old used set solid steel ones for £10
Я под эту конструкцию не вжись не полезу
It could use some more though, but at least you left a spot in the back to store your mary jane.
Oh and you could buy them cheaper than what you paid for the 2X10's
and safer too! Those look tipsy asf
Those tape measure diagonals though
Zput roofing shingle face down on bottom to keep ramp from slipping. Put roofing shingle face up on incline to prevent wheel from slipping. 100% guaranteed.
They sell metal ramps cheaper than you can get the planks for like already been said here. And whats the gloves for its new clean stuff you use here.
Look for this on the next installment of the Darwin Awards.
I am an Experienced Woodworker All I have to say is "LOL", Next Time you make a video Use measurements that people can see
Nice project
Think it's better than the plastic and metal ramps.
SUPER!!!!!!!!!!!!
Премия дарвина уже ждет тебя.
Ага, на могилку положат, когда его тачкой придавит...😂
You would have to be stupid to risk your life working with these things
This has got to be the best idea for raising a car to work underneath mechanically. I will be making one but using birch plywood with center beam made of dimensional lumber for strength. Keep the great videos coming Dr.Hacker. Peace too VF
if this guy reads all these comments, when he is through he will be able to build the absolute best most flawless set of car ramps know to modern man. and i bet there will still be complaints . but thanks u tube,,,,,,,,for all the fun and laughs this video has afforded me...
Столько головняка для того что бы достать из под машины упавший болт ? ))))))))
Ramps are inexpensive and in that rare event of a failure, the manufacturer may be liable. Home made...the manufacturer is still liable.
I will donate these to the kids in my neighborhood these will make good ramps to jump on their bikes
Here in America, you can buy ramps that are lighter, safer, and much cheaper than buying the wood material. Not even including the time wasted to build them.
But its comfortable when you prepared yourself..and the most important are safer
Not me I will stay with my welded ones of steel that are wider than the tire by a inch on both sides they wont kill me !!!
You should make a diy project to pick up a car after it falls on you. Your gonna need it.
i have some nice steel ramps,but i use my floor jack and jack stands 90% of the time,since it is super fast and safe imo...plus you can lift cars up exactly where you need them to be...
People, DO NOT BUILD THIS! This is very dangerous, buy only ramps designed and tested for cars. Can't tell you how many stories I have heard about people being crushed by cars using stuff like this.
I don't like! It isn't prove safe for me! Brazil É nois na fita manuuu
NO way would I go under a car using these " ramps"..buy the right equipment, not some weekend warriors DIY project.! your life will depend on it..
Alert for those not thinking outside the box: I used to laugh when my father had home made ramps (only 2 by "X" 3 to 4 wide, not with the upper and lower caps). I now only own DIY versions. Why? Because I can make them at any angle/length I want. Do you have a car with 3.5" ground clearance? Fine. Build a very shallow sloped and long ramp. I built a set that would raise the front of a car, AND have a second set of ramps that would just slide under the side of the car for the rear. This allowed me to get all 4 wheels up at the same time. I do like the wheels as an add on! I agree, music sucks on this video :)
Good Job I made some similar 25 yrs ago and no problems my neighbor also made some after he seen mine!!!