Soldering: • Use a REGULATED iron; 25 - 35 Watts. Weller makes a GREAT hobby model that performs identical to it's professional model, but is considerably cheaper. The chassis is plastic and the iron is a tad less robust, but if you re not planing to use the iron for professional use (everyday, all day), it's the best iron for the money. -REGULATED and adjustable. Don't solder without one. • Heat the joint NOT the wire, & melt the 60/40 solder over the joint. Use less solder rather than more. Just enough to over the joint. (90/10 Tin-Based solder is more difficult to use. There is no need for an audio circuit.) • Find a vacuum cleaner that can suck the chrome off a 1956 Ford bumper. I use an old Model A Hoover. E.g., those slide pots do not last. IF you want to get a few solid YEARS out of them, vacuum the dust, debris, wood shavings, etc out of the pot and the entire circuit and cavity. Then used canned air to blow what's left loose and vacuum again. In a year you will be glad. ASSEMBLY • Screws that go into wood: MAKE SURE to screw the same screw back into the exact SAME hole for which it came! As I remove such screws, I arrange them so I know from which hole each screw came. If you ignore this, the screws will strip the holes much faster. After all, no two screws are alike, hence, you will be tapping a new thread for each hole unless you use the same screw for each hole. I.e., learn to do the job RIGHT! After all, if you want it done right, DYI! The pros move at 150 mph and have no time to do it right, -particularly on less expensive boxes like this one. If you strip a hole on your old 1963 Tele; wood filler, or even Elmer's glue can make things right again). Wood filler is best. • Shielding: I dunno what this lad is talking about. The circuit board cavity has NO shielding that I can see. If hum / noise is a problem, you can use ordinary aluminium foil and apply some dots of glue or poster putty to hold the shielding down. Make sure to solder the shielding to your ONE ground point with a short, thin, stranded wire. Do not have more than ONE main ground point in ANY audio circuit and you will avoid ground loops. You can also buy ground shielding with a stick-em back from Stew Mac or other places like AES in Tempe AZ. It's cheap. • Work gentle and force nothing. If a screw seems to require too much force to screw in, than start over. This is YOUR ax. Do it RIGHT. That said, this lad did OK. He obviously can solder -only slightly sloppy. Learning some circuit and electronic basics will carry you a long way. You can learn the basics with but a little reading. E.g., see the first 3 chapters of the ARRL Amateur Radio Handbook (any year is fine). Look for them in used book stores, charity shops, boot sales, etc. Don't buy one new! I am a E.E. and old HAM radio operator who happens to play Jazz. I am, um, OLD. I've made the mistakes so you don't have to...
Great video Dale, I have being always doing my own fixing gear for years, I have question: I have a Godin Multiac Nylon and volume fader is making a loud noise when I fade out, when gets around around 20% it sounds like an capacitor failure or the fader it self, any tip or guess on what can be the problem? Thank you in advance
Hi Marco, It could be the volume slider of course. But also a circuit board fault, often blown IC (Integrated circuit) chips, etc. Try to clean out the slider using compressed air or with Servisol or DeOxit spray. Bad capacitors tend to exhibit noise like you would hear in an old valve amplifier. Capacitors have a 30-50 year shelf life remember so seldom go wrong before that (less likely to be the culprit here at a guess). If you get a multimeter reading on those capacitors and the reading fluctuates it's a bad capacitor. If it's an IC chip then it's more serious. Not an impossible do it yourself fix but perhaps then contact Canada head office for advice on swapping out the circuit board. China have been known to sell bad ICs that are essentially fakes so purchasing those should be from a reputable source. Hope that this helps! Best regards, Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 HI Dale, Thank you for your feedback, I send Godin an e-mail to Richard McClish at RMC and by the description of the issue he affirmed is the 1ooK volume pot, they are going to sell me and I'l do the fixing, very excited, thank you aging for your tech feedback! Thumbs up on your video and you got a new sub, feel free to check my music. Cheers!
Hi. Thank you so much for this great video. How would you suggest to clean the slider without disassembling the RMC? Can I just use a Kontakt Chemie 60/61 or WL ? If yes, which one would be the best? Also, sorry for all those questions: how to proceed in practice? I aim at the slider, put a little and then slide the slider? There is no risk for the rest of the electronic? Thanks again and have a nice day ! .
Always start with compressed air which is harmless. You can get it in a spray canister. Give the slot a good wiggle and see if it clears. Second is a non-chemical electronic switch cleaner. It depends on your country as to which exact products to use. Deoxit and Servisol are what I often use, but use sparingly and only after trying air and wiggle! I've never had to spray my Godin's but maybe yours has been exposed to radical temperature fluctuations? Best regards, Dale Harris
My best advice is to email Godin Guitars Canada and they can either suggest replacements and solutions or put you in touch with trusted sources. They always respond and are friendly and professional. Best regards, Dale Harris
Thanks for sharing that, I have the same guitar and it has just recently started to chew through batteries looked a the input jack but its part of the midi plug board, any idea what I should be looking for and how to fix, any information will be much appreciated cheers
It is possible because the bridge is made of wood and is therefore adaptable. However, before altering that, I'd personally ensure that you have the best string gauge for your taste, and after that, the truss rod is to your liking, and then the nut cut to your preferred depth. If after all of that then the rmc slots can be cut lower. I personally wouldn't advise it because each note needs to be clear and true for the midi system to work at optimum, but with skill and care there's no reason why it cannot be adjusted. I hope that this helps. Best regards, Dale Harris
Thanks posting this. I have a multiac ACS with a bad A string pick up as well! It fades out, gets fuzzy. If I take the string off and reseat the saddle it will come back for a while but eventually fades again. Godin no longer uses RMC in their new guitars. They've gone to LR Bags. I have ordered an LR bags saddle replacement, but the tech support said it may not have the same output as the RMC and I should probably do all 6. I'm going to replace the bad one and see if the levels can be matched on the GR-55. If not, I'll replace the other 5. NOT looking forward to this, afraid to burn the board. What temp was your iron? and what solder did you use. Your job looks as good as the factory!
The solder is use: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/r.html?C=38VLIQ1P7ES9H&K=2OQHXW8CE7NPU&M=urn:rtn:msg:201710181854123d42101ee59b4c1ca3a4756bdfd0p0eu&R=1F9K1T0OT1RML&T=C&U=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2Fdp%2FB074DCRQP5%2Fref%3Dpe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_2&A=8YMY7R9BJ1S6AYPEJSZ2VSRDOWIA&H=AA3TZQD5DDNLAKEQOSZ2TLOSFHOA&ref_=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_2
Contact RMC directly and purchase a single pickup (I ordered a set so I now have 5 spares). I can forwards you the RMC email so just send me a PM via Facebook, Instagram or via my website contact page. I personally would stick to the RMC as it's far less aggravation and cost. Best regards, Dale Harris
Hi, well you will need to check the input impedance of the RMC preamp and compare it to the output impedances of the graph tech hex pick-up system. Compare the output of the RMC hex system with the graph tech to double check compatibility. If you email graph tech, they might assist. Otherwise, soldering to the existing preamp is reasonably simple. Best regards, Dale
Since i changed the whole set of piezos my acs has a bad white noise/hiss when i crank the highs fader. Is very bad because it ruins my recordings during soft parts and sustained chords in solo performance... as the chord fade out the hiss take over.
Hi Ricardo, what were the original piezos? Check their impedance values. And what are the new piezos? Do the impedances match the previous set of piezos? Did you use heatsinks upon soldering when you attached the new piezos? Double check your capacitors perhaps to ensure none were blown due to soldering heat maybe? Best regards, Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 original piezos were rmc orange stripe... actual ones are rmc (i never checked the color code). Work was done by a famous Italian luthier not by me.
@@EverythingGuitar23 i know there's a hidden switch on the polydrive iv motherboard... changing voicing from steel to nylon... maybe has it been accidentally turn?
Are you using steel or nylon strings? I could only imagine that it's a low pass filter, so yes, flip the switch to see what happens. Godin customer service might put you in touch with their technical department. Try to record the before and after of flipping the switch. Then use a spectrum analyser to observe differences. RMC do recommend replacement pickups so I assume that your luthier checked with RMC ? Never hurts to put a multimeter to your capacitors on the preamp. If you have a blown IC chip, that could mean a preamp swap out but keep the troubleshooting as simple as possible for now.
Very instructive video I have learned a lot thank you very much for your kindness
The problem is the strings will sometimes slip off the grove of the RMC pick ups making a very nice guitar fundamentally flawed.
Soldering:
• Use a REGULATED iron; 25 - 35 Watts. Weller makes a GREAT hobby model that performs identical to it's professional model, but is considerably cheaper. The chassis is plastic and the iron is a tad less robust, but if you re not planing to use the iron for professional use (everyday, all day), it's the best iron for the money. -REGULATED and adjustable. Don't solder without one.
• Heat the joint NOT the wire, & melt the 60/40 solder over the joint. Use less solder rather than more. Just enough to over the joint. (90/10 Tin-Based solder is more difficult to use. There is no need for an audio circuit.)
• Find a vacuum cleaner that can suck the chrome off a 1956 Ford bumper. I use an old Model A Hoover. E.g., those slide pots do not last. IF you want to get a few solid YEARS out of them, vacuum the dust, debris, wood shavings, etc out of the pot and the entire circuit and cavity. Then used canned air to blow what's left loose and vacuum again. In a year you will be glad.
ASSEMBLY
• Screws that go into wood: MAKE SURE to screw the same screw back into the exact SAME hole for which it came! As I remove such screws, I arrange them so I know from which hole each screw came. If you ignore this, the screws will strip the holes much faster. After all, no two screws are alike, hence, you will be tapping a new thread for each hole unless you use the same screw for each hole. I.e., learn to do the job RIGHT! After all, if you want it done right, DYI! The pros move at 150 mph and have no time to do it right, -particularly on less expensive boxes like this one.
If you strip a hole on your old 1963 Tele; wood filler, or even Elmer's glue can make things right again). Wood filler is best.
• Shielding: I dunno what this lad is talking about. The circuit board cavity has NO shielding that I can see. If hum / noise is a problem, you can use ordinary aluminium foil and apply some dots of glue or poster putty to hold the shielding down. Make sure to solder the shielding to your ONE ground point with a short, thin, stranded wire. Do not have more than ONE main ground point in ANY audio circuit and you will avoid ground loops. You can also buy ground shielding with a stick-em back from Stew Mac or other places like AES in Tempe AZ. It's cheap.
• Work gentle and force nothing. If a screw seems to require too much force to screw in, than start over. This is YOUR ax. Do it RIGHT.
That said, this lad did OK. He obviously can solder -only slightly sloppy.
Learning some circuit and electronic basics will carry you a long way. You can learn the basics with but a little reading. E.g., see the first 3 chapters of the ARRL Amateur Radio Handbook (any year is fine). Look for them in used book stores, charity shops, boot sales, etc. Don't buy one new!
I am a E.E. and old HAM radio operator who happens to play Jazz. I am, um, OLD. I've made the mistakes so you don't have to...
can i fix a broken rmc pick up? if yes, how to do it? the top lid is broken and the cable is broken, can i solder it back?
Great video Dale, I have being always doing my own fixing gear for years, I have question: I have a Godin Multiac Nylon and volume fader is making a loud noise when I fade out, when gets around around 20% it sounds like an capacitor failure or the fader it self, any tip or guess on what can be the problem? Thank you in advance
Hi Marco,
It could be the volume slider of course.
But also a circuit board fault, often blown IC (Integrated circuit) chips, etc. Try to clean out the slider using compressed air or with Servisol or DeOxit spray. Bad capacitors tend to exhibit noise like you would hear in an old valve amplifier. Capacitors have a 30-50 year shelf life remember so seldom go wrong before that (less likely to be the culprit here at a guess). If you get a multimeter reading on those capacitors and the reading fluctuates it's a bad capacitor. If it's an IC chip then it's more serious. Not an impossible do it yourself fix but perhaps then contact Canada head office for advice on swapping out the circuit board. China have been known to sell bad ICs that are essentially fakes so purchasing those should be from a reputable source.
Hope that this helps!
Best regards, Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 HI Dale,
Thank you for your feedback, I send Godin an e-mail to Richard McClish at RMC and by the description of the issue he affirmed is the 1ooK volume pot, they are going to sell me and I'l do the fixing, very excited, thank you aging for your tech feedback! Thumbs up on your video and you got a new sub, feel free to check my music. Cheers!
Hi. Thank you so much for this great video. How would you suggest to clean the slider without disassembling the RMC? Can I just use a Kontakt Chemie 60/61 or WL ? If yes, which one would be the best? Also, sorry for all those questions: how to proceed in practice? I aim at the slider, put a little and then slide the slider? There is no risk for the rest of the electronic? Thanks again and have a nice day ! .
Always start with compressed air which is harmless. You can get it in a spray canister. Give the slot a good wiggle and see if it clears. Second is a non-chemical electronic switch cleaner. It depends on your country as to which exact products to use. Deoxit and Servisol are what I often use, but use sparingly and only after trying air and wiggle! I've never had to spray my Godin's but maybe yours has been exposed to radical temperature fluctuations?
Best regards,
Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 Thanks a lot it is very much appreciated :)
Hello, Godin Multiak Mid. It makes a little noise while playing. It brings fear. What could be the fault? Thanks in advance
My best advice is to email Godin Guitars Canada and they can either suggest replacements and solutions or put you in touch with trusted sources. They always respond and are friendly and professional. Best regards, Dale Harris
Thanks for sharing that, I have the same guitar and it has just recently started to chew through batteries looked a the input jack but its part of the midi plug board, any idea what I should be looking for and how to fix, any information will be much appreciated cheers
Greetings, are you aware of any way to lower the action on these models?
It is possible because the bridge is made of wood and is therefore adaptable. However, before altering that, I'd personally ensure that you have the best string gauge for your taste, and after that, the truss rod is to your liking, and then the nut cut to your preferred depth. If after all of that then the rmc slots can be cut lower. I personally wouldn't advise it because each note needs to be clear and true for the midi system to work at optimum, but with skill and care there's no reason why it cannot be adjusted. I hope that this helps. Best regards, Dale Harris
Thanks posting this. I have a multiac ACS with a bad A string pick up as well! It fades out, gets fuzzy. If I take the string off and reseat the saddle it will come back for a while but eventually fades again. Godin no longer uses RMC in their new guitars. They've gone to LR Bags. I have ordered an LR bags saddle replacement, but the tech support said it may not have the same output as the RMC and I should probably do all 6. I'm going to replace the bad one and see if the levels can be matched on the GR-55. If not, I'll replace the other 5. NOT looking forward to this, afraid to burn the board. What temp was your iron? and what solder did you use. Your job looks as good as the factory!
The solder is use: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/r.html?C=38VLIQ1P7ES9H&K=2OQHXW8CE7NPU&M=urn:rtn:msg:201710181854123d42101ee59b4c1ca3a4756bdfd0p0eu&R=1F9K1T0OT1RML&T=C&U=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2Fdp%2FB074DCRQP5%2Fref%3Dpe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_2&A=8YMY7R9BJ1S6AYPEJSZ2VSRDOWIA&H=AA3TZQD5DDNLAKEQOSZ2TLOSFHOA&ref_=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_2
Contact RMC directly and purchase a single pickup (I ordered a set so I now have 5 spares). I can forwards you the RMC email so just send me a PM via Facebook, Instagram or via my website contact page. I personally would stick to the RMC as it's far less aggravation and cost.
Best regards, Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 well, I already ordered the LR bags (got a deal on 6 of em for $100). So I'll see how it works out.
@@EverythingGuitar23 thanks!
Hey thx for sharing your experience. I have the same probleme on the Low E String !! I need to know the color of that sadlles wire !
The 6 (hex) pickup wires should all be the same. Just solder one RMC pickup in there.
I hope that this helps?!
Best regards,
Dale Harris
Me too!
Hello, I have an old godin nylon, can I replace my 6 original RMC sensors with graph tech, thank you very much
Hi, do you mean to attach graph tech pickups to the existing preamp?
Best regards,
Dale Harris
yes sir, thank you for your answer, do you know if in your opinion I can solder on the original preamp?@@EverythingGuitar23
I whrite to france
currently I had replaced by a piezo strip, but I would like to put 6 sensors back
Hi, well you will need to check the input impedance of the RMC preamp and compare it to the output impedances of the graph tech hex pick-up system. Compare the output of the RMC hex system with the graph tech to double check compatibility. If you email graph tech, they might assist. Otherwise, soldering to the existing preamp is reasonably simple.
Best regards,
Dale
Since i changed the whole set of piezos my acs has a bad white noise/hiss when i crank the highs fader. Is very bad because it ruins my recordings during soft parts and sustained chords in solo performance... as the chord fade out the hiss take over.
Any idea about reasons? Wrong color set? Bad cap?
Hi Ricardo, what were the original piezos? Check their impedance values. And what are the new piezos? Do the impedances match the previous set of piezos? Did you use heatsinks upon soldering when you attached the new piezos? Double check your capacitors perhaps to ensure none were blown due to soldering heat maybe?
Best regards, Dale Harris
@@EverythingGuitar23 original piezos were rmc orange stripe... actual ones are rmc (i never checked the color code). Work was done by a famous Italian luthier not by me.
@@EverythingGuitar23 i know there's a hidden switch on the polydrive iv motherboard... changing voicing from steel to nylon... maybe has it been accidentally turn?
Are you using steel or nylon strings? I could only imagine that it's a low pass filter, so yes, flip the switch to see what happens. Godin customer service might put you in touch with their technical department. Try to record the before and after of flipping the switch. Then use a spectrum analyser to observe differences. RMC do recommend replacement pickups so I assume that your luthier checked with RMC ? Never hurts to put a multimeter to your capacitors on the preamp. If you have a blown IC chip, that could mean a preamp swap out but keep the troubleshooting as simple as possible for now.
RMC pickups are very bad, they die very fast, dont buy anything that has them or you just gonna have headaches...
I have the grand concert sa , I bought it in 2008 , and the only problem that I got recently was the internal midi cable … just 2 dollars !!