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How To Replace The Automatic Transfer Switch On An RV
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- čas přidán 30. 09. 2019
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Certified Mobile RV Technician, Darren Koepp, walks you through removing and replacing the automatic transfer switch on this motorhome.
If you are in need of RV Repairs in the Olympic Peninsula area of Washington state, submit a service request on our website at myrvworks.com today!
Topic: Automatic Transfer Switch R&R - Bonus troubleshooting when things don't go as planned
Parts:
Surge Guard Automatic Transfer Switch - 50 Amp - amzn.to/2lwue2l
Surge Guard Automatic Transfer Switch - 30 Amp - amzn.to/2n1iyFl
Tools:
Wiha Torque Screwdriver, 10-50 Inch Pound - amzn.to/2n1tmDr
Wiha Bit Holder Adapter - amzn.to/2n1tHpH
Wera Insulated Screwdriver Set - amzn.to/2kUQmTQ
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Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit - amzn.to/2l05W0E
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DEWALT 3-Piece Impact-Ready Pivoting Nutsetters - amzn.to/2mrOkv1
MILWAUKEE 6" Bit Holder - amzn.to/2kY5Mqz
Knipex Long Nose Pliers insulated - amzn.to/2kZI11k
Protorq Security Bit Set - amzn.to/2n2zZFH
Craftsman Ultimate Screwdriver Bit Set - amzn.to/2n2ms0L
Telescoping LED Lighted Flexible Inspection Mirror - amzn.to/2kRcezo
Test Equipment:
Fluke 325 Clamp Multimeter AC-DC TRMS - amzn.to/2mxZ76E
Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester - amzn.to/2mYKXM9
Fluke Rigid Back Probe Pin Set, 2" Length - amzn.to/2lsXS8L
Fluke Bucktooth Alligator Clip Set - amzn.to/2mxY9r2
Fluke Premium Test Lead Set, Right Angle - amzn.to/2n2d3GB
Shop Supplies:
Color Coding Electrical Tape - amzn.to/2U9Q7Sd
PPE:
Gelfit Thigh Support Stabilization Knee Pads - amzn.to/2SrQIhc
PETZL - Tikka Headlamp - amzn.to/321ZC8yToughbuilt
Maxiflex 34-874 Ultimate Nitrile Grip Work Gloves - amzn.to/2O7KKBQ
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Related Video's:
RV Electricity Playlist: • RV Electricity
Film Date: 8/28/2019
Location: Sequim , WA (GilGal Oasis RV Park)
Camera:
Samsung Galaxy Note8
Native Camera
16:9 FHD 1920x1080
Version 9.0.01.38
60-Inch Lightweight Tripod - amzn.to/2ZqBuPv
Music:
"My RV Works-Jam"
Composed by Steve Patry - Four Faces Band
It takes a special kind of person that just refuses to give up during times like this.
If you have no patents just pay someone else, because it can cost you a lot more !
Thanks for hanging in their because really enjoyed it !
Darren; I am so glad that I found your channel, I love to watch you troubleshoot issues and work them out. This helps me working with my own motorhome. Your comments are great too. Keep up the great videos.
Darren, Thank you for doing this, I was able to swap out and test the transfer switch in an hour. Watched your video and did it like you and boom its done!!! Thank you again and keep the videos coming.
Joe.
You, sir, are my hero. Watching your video gave me the confidence to take on this task myself. I tried to have a mobile tech do it, but they were too far out on their schedule and I really didn't want to park my home at a dealer for who-knows-how-long. Keep up the great work! You're my go-to for any other issues I might encounter out on the road.
Thank you Darren, very informative and, I don't own a motorhome yet! Doing my research before next year's purchase !!! Earlier I watched your video on Converter replacement you are a GREAT TECH!
This was a great video for me. I'm the type of person that I need the details of things even when they are working because we never know when they will fail, and videos of this type help us. I was glad to see the part where you did the trouble shooting of the switch. I would have been terribly stressed if I had this happen to me and I had not viewed your video first. Thanks!!!!
I want to express my gratitude for your very helpful videos! I watch them regularly and even refer back to them. I am a new RV tech and have so many questions on things & you continue to really helped me. If you need video ideas, I have many, lol. Thank you again!!
Thanks for the kind comment. I'm always looking for new ideas for videos. Some I make when I'm on service calls but I'm also putting together an idea of having a place in my shop where I can do more show-and-tell type stuff in a more controlled and teaching type environment. Welcome to the trade. We need more techs! . Enjoy the journey.
Another great video, Darren. I am ordering my torque screwdriver and check if I have any of my connections are loose. Safety first, turn off and unplug everything before doing this (and always double check with a meter). Thanks.
Myself having been a Network Manager for a major hospital in Manhattan (Retired now) I have had my share of out of box failures and fully understand the frustration associated. These companies that manufacture the equipment should make an effort in bench testing each unit verses testing several out of a lot number and passing the entire lot.
Also associated failures can be traced to not properly grounding oneself with a wrist strap connected to ground when handling and installing any sensitive electronic equipment, although I believe in this instance this was not the cause as the enclosure box appears to be a non conducive resin.
Your trouble shooting as always was spot on and much appreciated.
Thank you Darren
He will only answer certain questions I have noticed
There’s some really good information to be found on CZcams if you find the right channels your information was awesome please keep it up up
Just want to say great job on logic and reason on the trouble shooting. You ROCK!
At about 7:20 you mention in "Best Practices" to never mount the ATS oriented with the cover facing upward; what is the reason for this? Just curious. Thanks in advance.
That was a great video! Learned a lot with the trouble shooting and confirmation the 120 is needed for magnet to pull in. Thanks!
Another fantastic video. thanks again Darren
I learn so much from watching your channel. It's amazing.
You say amps alot when you mean volts... i know what you meant but some people may not...i enjoy your videos and i learn so much from you. I would love to be able to work side by side with you and learn from you. But your videos are the next best thing. You are a very good teacher. Thanks for your videos.
I think my viewers are learning that I am a bit dyslexic on what I call things lol. Perhaps if I would script out my videos a little bit more and have a story to follow but since everything is live you get me bumps and warts and all LOL. Hope I don't confuse too many people. Happy camping and thanks for watching.
My RV Works - I got used to it when you call air conditioners refrigerators and refrigerators - air conditioners . . . in past videos. 🤣🤣🤣
@@hatteraslabuf I will watch the rough edit and cringe at what I called different tools, hardware fasteners, appliances etc. I am a mess, but hey you all get me warts and all! Now I can appreciate what all goes into making a blockbuster Hollywood movie and all the outtakes the 'professionals' generate. As long as my wife loves me I am okay with it.
We love ya too - or we wouldn’t be watching !!! Thanks for the content !
Ignore this criticism as some people just like try and find something to criticize. If people don't know what you mean, maybe the shouldn't even open up the box and hire it done.
My transfer switch went bad and I need to replace it. By watching your video I am confident that I can do it myself now.
Great video. I enjoy all of your videos. You explain everything and have excellent troubleshooting skills! I think you solved the issue I have with the same transfer switch. When I plug in to shore power, intermittently no clunk, it doesn't engage. With shore power still connected I start the generator. When I turn off the genny, within a few seconds shore power engages. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
100% thank you for this video watched it start to finish then help me confirm what I suspected on my brand new rig and also helped me “Jerry rig” if you wanna call it that, to keep my power going though the weekend!
Thanks for posting. I had previously changed a transfer switch, but your video helps understand exactly how it all happens. Recently purchased motor home has this same problem, but I haven't yet taken cover off box to confirm generator is producing power so this video was most timely.
Glad our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Always great to have the right tools... great video. It seems to be straight forward and simple. I just don't like electricity.
I followed your swap out procedure. Thanks for that. It’s money in the bank for the time I’ll have to do it myself. I’m going to order that pen like voltage detector.
But man you lost me when you put the old transfer switch in to demonstrate how it should work. I thought it was broken. I had to search your replies to comments to find that techno rv was testing out a new transfer switch and there was nothing wrong with the old unit. Maybe pin a comment to the top for future viewers.
Yeah, me to but he got around to saying the old one was fine, the new one had a surge protector feature and may have other features not mentioned.
haha! yes because I came to the comments looking for an explanation...like whaaat...if the original worked why a new one. I'm glad for the tutorial for sure though.
Finally someone that shows the full process and not just flash to the end and say "that's how it's done". let me know if your ever going to be in the Idaho area my Rv died last summer and it shows the shore power is working but I have 0 power in the rv, generator doesn't work either when I tried jump starting it it worked for a few min. then died as well.
HI Darren thanks much for your videos i learn some how my furnace works so i fied , now my RV Works nice to warm TKS
I believe my auto transfer switch just took a poop this past weekend. Great video!!! Thanks for being so detailed. Looks like I'm going to switch out my switch!
Mine is not working right now, when I take the transfer cover off and watch, when I start the generator both Shore and Coach seal in and power in the house cuts off
Holy crap. This is exactly the video I was looking for regarding ATS issues. Thanks for all this! Now, just to figure Magnum battery charging issues. Inverter works fine. If house batteries are not fully charging (they are new AGM’s), then no charging of chassis’s batteries happens. Need help here.
Very good tutorial for electrical novices. This helps people to be more self reliant. I noted one interesting phrase you use that I have never heard before: "SEALING IN". I have been doing electrical/electronic work for more years than I care to think about, (including teaching electronics), and I never encountered that term. In my experience, the term used was ENERGIZED, or CONTACTS MADE. Very interesting! Perhaps it is a Northwest specific term. Anyway, I enjoy your videos, and benefitted from several of your Aqua Hot repair videos. Thank you!
I was a controls engineer and senior level systems engineer for 30 years working in Industrial Automation systems. So that's a term we used when we're talking about contactors being energized. I guess it's one of the nuances in the Industrial Automation side of the house lol. Here's a link to a video I put out on how electricity works, you might enjoy it as well. I tried to keep it easy with my analogies. I know current doesn't 'flow' through a wire, it vibrates at the electron valence level, but folks have enjoyed the analogies nonetheless. Thanks for what you do.
czcams.com/video/mk3lDwU61o4/video.htmlsi=G-3jhzZVNxpM6oWT
Thank you Darren and keep up the good work.
Again learned a ton of knowledge Thanks for sharing
Great detective work! Inspiring! 😀
VERY NICE TROUBLESHOOTING YOU DUNE THEIR SER !
Your unbelievable. Keep up the great work!
why can't you mount the ATS face up?
Sir, you seriously ROCK!!! Thank you VERY much for taking the time to make such amazingly informative videos! I have a Bounder 36 and am 4 hours from anywhere that can do work on it...your videos keep it on the road!!! Thank you!!
Great video . Very informative 👍🏻
Very informative video. Thank you!
Thanks!!! This was really informative!!!
Just dropped you a request for service. Thanks!
Excellent video!
Wow wow awesome the details good job
I know space is tight but i would have moved the converter 2 inches to the left ,,, Great vid .
R.J.T (Usualy) travelingthe east coast of australia ,
But waiting for a Crank sensor from the USA ,,,,,,Happy New year
This video is everything
Darin, I'm not sure if this will have anything to do with your problem with the replacement transfer switch. But, I've been handling the park electrical at a park in northern Cal that was an old failed mobile home park turned RV park. I've had troubles in the past with customers that have transfer switches plugging into our pedestals. They would only get 65 volts, and it really had me stumped for awhile. And it happened to the same customer in the same space two years in a row even after replacing his transfer switch, which I feel terrible about. The problem ended up being the pedestals were installed for mobile home use and not RVs, which means the neutral and ground wires weren't bonded at the pedestal, they were counting on the bond being made at the distribution panel inside the mobile home. I have now bonded all of the pedestals in the park and haven't had an issue since. What I can't figure out for you is that the original transfer switch worked while the replacement didn't and imitated the issues that I've had in the past. I'm just curious if the original transfer switch in that unit made a bond within it's enclosure somewhere. I'd be interested in knowing if this may solve your issue, although I'm a bit late to the game since your video was uploaded months ago. This happened to about a dozen customers before I figured it out. Floating neutrals can cause all sorts of problems I suppose when they are not pinned to earth potential. The appliances in the RVs were going haywire on 65 volts. I'm assuming the missing voltage was being passed to ground.
Hi Ron,
Your question has been selected for an upcoming video where it will be read and discussed by Darren.
If you have not already subscribed to the 'My RV Works' CZcams channel, please do so and keep a watch for the '10-Minutes with an RV Tech’ video sessions. This new series is a selection of comments and questions that will be covered and released weekly.
Here is our CZcams link: czcams.com/users/myrvworksinc
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Fantastic informative videosI I have a 98 Newmar Mountainaire someone cut all the copper cables and wiring out of her there are two large red cables coming out of a relay/fuse box under the hood the biggest one I ran to the positive battery lug the second slightly smaller does it go to the positive lug on the chassis battery or directly to the generator or house batteries again thank you so much Winston
What a GREAT video! I will be replacing my transfer switch this weekend because I did exactly what you said not to do with the A/C. This will be my guide as I do the switch. I am curious though... You mention not to mount the switch flat. Jayco has mine mounted flat on the floor behind a bedroom drawer. I will move the unit to the wall if I can find room, but can you (or anyone else) explain the "why" behind not mounting flat? Thanks again for an awesome tutorial!!!!
Great video. I just had my second ATS installed (hefty price tag for the one in the desert). Both were installed with the box label “up”. Could that be why I have had two failures now? Should I try to wall mount it? Your video gives me confidence that I might be able to do that.
Great video!! when I tightened my lugs in the ATS, I noticed on side had 2 neutral wires coming in from generator?
Awesome thanks for sharing
Just watch this one there Darren..love your videos on subjects like this! I actually build my own stuff very similar to what you are showing in the video. I also ran across a weird voltage rate one 1/2 of it just like you did. I found that the energizing coil that is being used to pull in the contactors were accidentally set for a 240 V. set up..not the usual 120V as you were working with. The switch bow delay circuit and all inside were also set for 240V system..not the 120V as well thus when you connected 120V you were only getting half of it as it wasn't designed for that voltage. Hope that helps ...it helps when you deal with commercial electrical boxes of the very same set up...also confusing. NOTE: I use a circuit that thinks for itself when using normal AC line voltage vs generator AC sourcing. It is always wired so that whenever we loose Line Voltage..it auto transfers to generator after a delay...however - when the AC line voltage comes back on...it auto goes to line AC source and shuts off the generator. in other words....AC line is primary choosing - then generator 2nd - (My system also continues to choose #3 source of 12 DC alternator - follow by #4 source batteries. You do an amazing job there guy..Keep up the good work!! We love learning from you!!
Good job and God Bless
Just found your CZcams page after my ATS fried out on a recent trip. My ATS was the IOTA ITS-30rl that I believe was recalled a few years back. I bought the RV used so I assume the prior owner had no clue of the issues with this unit. Anyway, had a couple of questions before I purchase and install a new unit. First, should I buy an ATS with built in surge protection features? Second, does the inverter connect to the ATS and where? Last, my wire coatings got fried pretty good, I'm assuming I can still use the existing cables if I have enough slack to trim the wires back to where I have good clean wires. Please confirm. Thanks!
Thanks for posting the video was wondering why you can’t mount the box flat? Mine is inside next to the bed under a drawer mounted flat and planned to just mount the new one in its place
Good stuff thanks
Did I miss the explanation of itbeing a “surge protector” ,also? Meaning you wouldn’t need to buy the small 20” adapter that some people first plug in to their shore power and then their extension cord? Or does this transfer not do that?
Great video. So once a year should I go in and make sure all the screws are tight?
Well done.. you should teach techs. Except it doesn't pay as well. Again nice job
Love the trouble shooting
I love your videos. you would make a fantastic instructor! how did you obtain so much knowledge about RV repair?
Well thanks for the vote of confidence. I just really enjoy what I'm doing and actually enjoy reading manuals and going to training classes to learn even more stuff about this. It's my business I'm passionate about it and it's great to raise my kids around this as well. The fact that I was a professional engineer for 25 years before I got into this certainly helps but that only get you in the door.
Thank you for your great videos, very informative. I have a question about Automatic Transfer Switches, I have one in my 1997 38' Newmar Dutchstar Diesel pusher It has a Parallax 501 ATS in it that went bad, after watching your video on the one you replaced was a Surge Guard, what are your thoughts when replacing one, do you replace it with the same one that when bad or do you get a better one if possible, and if so what do you recommend?
I saw your automatic transfer switch video and the issues you had. I’m planning on adding a ATS to my motorhome and one of the things this particular unit showed was that the switches had to be horizontal or flat on the floor, not verticals . Is that something I need to consider?? Great video, thanks.
So what extra “bells and whistles “ necessitated changing the transfer switch. They both appeared to be identical units . . . and, the original one appears to be a working transfer switch. BTW - the former RV owner never instructed me to turn off the AC when going from generator to shore power or vice-versa. Should I expect to see any issues from this if I follow your instructions, going forward? Thanks for THAT tip and your easy to comprehend instructions !!! I never knew how they worked - I thought it was magic.
This transfer switch was a prototype for my customer to install in his RV. He is the owner of www.TecnoRV.com and manufacturers will send prototypes for him to test. Eric asked me to perform the R&R while he was in town. Not sure what all the new bells and whistles are in the new one because we never got it to work LOL. There was a 5-minute section in my video where I covered specifically the danger in leaving your air conditioner on when you transition from Shore power to generator. My post production editor decided to cut that part out. However it is very important to turn off all of your air conditioner loads when you do transition between power sources. I do have pictures in my gallery that show transfer switches it have melted from people who do not do this. There's too much energy being transferred when the air conditioners are left on and they're started across the line like that.
Love your work, can you please give the make and models each time. Thanks
Hi Bruce, we'll try to include this info!
I have a SouthWire ATS on my 50A 2022 Motorhome and the cable coming from my generator to the ATS has 4 conductors plus a ground. It has the usual red, black, white, but also has a blue wire that piggyback connects alongside of the white neutral wire. My ATS is a newer 2022 model that has additional safety features to protect from bad shore power situations. My thought is that the blue wire must be used as a signal wire to detect an open-neutral fault situation? What do you think? BTW, thanks for your informative videos.
Hi Darren question i have a 2006 fleetwood pioneer an my ac will work with a 110 but as soon as i connect it to my generator it shots everything of in my trailer what do you think is the problem love your video
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
I recently came across your channel and find your videos quite informative. My question is: does the gray cable coming out of the left side of the switch get connected to the converter in the distribution panel?
Love the Mackinac shirt!
Our automatic transfer switch burned up! We always turn the ac off before plugging into shore power. Ours blew after we had been connected to shore power over night with ac running. There were no storms and no one else in the park seemed to have any similar issue. There may have been a vent running in the kitchen area. We are 50 amps. What could have caused this? Any ideas? I would really like to avoid this in the future. Thanks for any helpful advice.
On our service for our ten acre farm we shared a 7.5 kilowatt transformer with another ten acre farm, between the two farms there was a road, now that might not seem like a big deal but, we had four stock tank heaters demanding 1500 watts each, add to that the other farms service panel was a third the distance from the transformer as ours, they also had stock tank heaters, three of them to be exact. we also had a full fledged shop to add to the demand on the transformer. The two farms also had a well and a double wide on each. as you can probably imagine there were hellacious voltage drops. We also had a mystery surging issue we later figured out that ALL the lugs on the service panel attached to the meter had broken in half along the shafts of all the lugs. Surprise, surprise, anyhow, thousands of dollars later and add to that paying our uncle, the certified electrician in the state of California, to camp on our property and feed him and his family, what a mess we had, a lot of things fried during the issue. He spent days diagnosing the root cause, then fixing that AND every problem downstream that were secondary issues. It was a bloody disaster. People wonder why I do not want to by a turn key operation, that one was constant problems as a result of SHODDY WORK FROM SHODDY CONTRACTORS that were hired by idiots. Long story short, the operation only lasted seven years before we were so financially bled to death that we left.
It would have been great if you had enough slack in the shore power feed to mount the automatic transfer switch in the vertical position. I always try to mount components so it's easy to work on and troubleshoot for me and the next guy....
Yes, that would have been nice. But when I am asked to R&R I usually keep everything where it is to save on installation time since the meter is running for the customer. I was so tempted to pull out that cord real though because I could just not see anything from that angle.
I have an onmi-phase whole house overload protector wired into mine. If the circuit protector is bad will it cause the Automatic transfer switch to fail? Thank you
Would there be any issues if you only used one leg on the generator side? I have 50 amp service, but my generator is only 30
Question: can I move my transfer switch to a more Accessible compartment right now it’s in the restroom
Can I hook up a 220 amp system to a 30 amp transfer switch. Thinking of hooking up a Mimi split air conditioner to my rv.
Just purchased 92 Fleetwood Pace Arrow which is in need of some tlc for sure. I'm not sure if it is equipped with such an animal being 28 years old. Anyone know if this would have been standard on these motorhomes?
I "think" I noticed a capacitor in line with A1.. and you stated you were making the gennie primary instead of shore power.. is this messing with the polarity of that capacitor thus not allowing it power up to 120V and get that baby to seal in the gennie?
I have a motorhome with a 30a set up. I'm looking into adding a second ac and upgrading to 50a. The shore power seems strait forward. However, I'm not planning to upgrade the generator, so it only has 3 wires. Will this be an issue? Not planning to try and run both AC's off the generator. Adding 50a transfer switch, new breaker panel wiring and a receptacle seems like a pretty good time and money investment. Would I be better off just adding a standalone 20a breaker box and receptacle solely devoted to the rear ac? My coach is "pre-wired" and already has the power (not hot) and thermostat wires ran behind the walls.
Any thoughts as to why my shore power circuit breaker trips when the lid is placed on The Lid on my Southwire 41301A 30 Amp transfer switch is placed on it? When checking things out I noticed that the transfer switch lid was not in place. When I put it on, it tripped the shore power breaker. i took the lid off and all was fine. I put the lid back on and the breaker tripped. Also, my switch is mounted face up and I just saw your video which says don't do this. This is the way it came from the factory.
My switch is humming on shore power at times. Is this normal?
Really enjoy all your videos.
Would A/Cs equipped with Soft Starts prevent the damage to the contactors?
What does "engineering sample" on the end of the switch mean? Maybe it was used for lab tests and that's why it failed.
I have the same automatic transfer switch in my RV I have coil voltage but it will not transfer to generator power… It transfers to shore power just fine… Any suggestions? The transfer switch is brand new
Hi my 2004 safari zanzibar a/c works when plugged in to home outlet but won't turn on when not plugged in. Thank you
My shore power would not kick in so what I did was pushed in on that blue centerpiece that you were showing with an electricians insulated screwdriver and just held it in until the power kicked in and that held it in place, so far, 6 hrs now
Should you switch the inverter off before disconnecting all these wires on the ATS?
What were the symptoms that made you need to replace the transfer switch?
For this video we were working on the RV for the owners of www.technorv.com This was an engineering sample transfer switch. There was nothing wrong with the original one that's why we put it back on then we ran into issues with the new one.
Thanks for the Video, My power transfer switch (or box) is buzzing very loudly can it be fixed or do I need to replace it?
The buzzing is because the magnets are not aligned in the contactors exactly perfectly. Sometimes cycling power on/off will cause them to click in/out and that will realign them. The buzzing will not affect the electrical circuit. It's just the electromagnets in the coil misaligned by the slightest bit.
I really thought that the transfer switch was going to be my problem. It isn’t. After watching your video, I tested mine and it’s fine. I did find the problem. In my main breaker box, (2016 Newmar Ventana LE 4040) there are the 6 or 8 gauge red, white and black coming in from the transfer switch. All of the breakers on that bus are good and I have power to those circuits. But on the bottom, there’s another positive bus that’s not connected to the rest, that has a single pole main breaker with about a 10-2 wire coming in. This is dead. The circuits on this bus are the lights, inverter, appliances and AC controller. Do it seemed like my whole RV was dead. Is there another fuse or breaker between the transfer switch and breaker box for this? Thank you!
Why did you replace it? What wee the indications that made you decide to replace it?
Thank you! Do you have a link those needle probes that you use for your multimeter?
We've got them on our tool site here: myrvworksstore.square.site/product/test-lead-accessories/603
*Is it absolutely a need for there to be one of these switches in say a 50 Amp 33 footer? mine had a an electrical short that burned the converter and fried my microwave. Also what is the difference between a "CONVERTER" and an "INVERTER"? i'm confused but for practical purposes I am in a 35 Amp RV right now but i bought a 50 AMP one as far as i know Heartland does not have such a switch in them. My understanding is that this will allow to switch from one power source to the other without having to go outside to switch cables from a generator to shore power. Lastly with mine on a generator my nephew was testing the outlet for power from my Generator the generator of course won't go any higher than 35 Amps. if this switch is not absolutely necessary then i believe i am good but on generator the Power outlet inside the RV was showing 16,000 hz at the outlet instead of the 60HZ that it should have. I haven't tested the outlet again plugged into a 120 V outlet feeding into the 50 AMP RV but everything so far seems to work (one thing at a time) on a 120 V shore power connection. I am just afraid when i have the 50 Amp rv in place and i go to hook to a 50 amp service that it will fry the converter again as soon as more than just one thing at a time is on and running again. Basically i am scared i'm going to fry another converter and then be S.O.L for power until a new converter comes in* i know this has little to do with what you are showing here but if this is something i actually need or that would be a good safeguard i'm not opposed to adding one later. I just need to know if it's a must right now in the 50 AMP RV with a single ac, refrigerator 2 tv's and a washer dryer combo in the front closet (2011 Heartland Big Country RV is the 50 AMP one) (2012 Heartland Elkhart Express is the 35 Amp one i am in now and i've been hooked directly to a 35 amp connector on the electrical pole on my property since January) just for complete transparency's sake
Similar to a reversing contactor for 3 phase motors, just without the overloads.
Would adding the overloads be a nice touch?
Overload is defined as equipment in excess of normal, full-load rating, or a conductor in excess of rated ampacity (current) that, when it persists for a sufficient length of time, could cause damage or dangerous overheating. Breaker will work as an overload, if it is working correctly, it will trip. Overload is used to protect the motor, drive or another sensitive electronics. In the transfer switch, the power is redirected and not used. If you want to fuse your devices you can, but that will not stop your transfer switch from failing. If large current is used by RV (when AC is ON) during the transition of generator to shore power or vice versa, the transfer switch is unable to keep up with speed of closing. Instead, the current will jump (travel faster than closing of the transfer switch). This jump will creat a small arc (welding arc across the contact points). If this continues to repeat, contact points will fail and will no longer close because they will be burn out. That’s why it is recommended to torn off everything that draws a lot of current when changing power supplies. That way, the transfer switch can close normally without creating an arc. Mechanical interlocks will also fail with time if it is exposed to dirt, water or other elements (that’s why mounting the box sideways or upside down is important to prevent water/dirt collecting inside). Sealing it with a gasket (if possible) would be even better. All transfer switches will fail because of a sudden inrush of current (that’s why it’s recommended/best practice to turn everything off when going from one power source to another). Overload will not stop arc from appearing because this transfer switch is rated for that specific amperage. It’s like driving a car. When you start your car, you slowly leave your driveway (normal operation). However, if you take off from your drive way like you are doing on an drag race, your car will fail with time (something will break).
Hi Darren, you stated not to install the transfer switch with the top facing up, but you never stated why. So, why not? Mine, in the fiver, is that way.
My transfer box is flat under the kitchen drawers and laying flat on its back with the opening facing upward... so if I replace it, which I’m getting ready to do, why wouldn’t I replace it the exact way it came out?
The idea is that those blue things that make the connection are being pushed out by springs. If you mount them in a way that the spings also have to work against gravity the system is less safe. Let's say multiple multiple things fail on this switch. You want to make sure that it is more likely to fail in a safe position than an unsafe position. Unlikely but still a simple way to add a little more safety. The last thing you want is gravity helping close that circuit.
Very important vidio
How find a good RV repair shop to check my electric connections?
Will we get a part 2? I'd like to see the end results.
This transfer switch was a prototype sent to Eric to test in his RV before they went live with the production run. Eric is the owner of www.technorv.com and gets a lot of engineering samples and prototypes to test. When we determined that this new transfer switch had failed out of the box, Eric sent it back to the manufacturer so they can test it in their lab. So there will be no part 2 to this video unfortunately.
Hello, I have a 95 foretravel. I had unplugged from sure power, then started my generator, my wife said 3 bulbs in the bathroom exploded. Then on the control panel kept beeping saying high voltage. After 2 hours of driving, everything shut off inside the coach. And generator shut off also. I then started loosing voltage from my chasie batteries. Do you think the transfer switch never switched over when I unplugged from sure power?
Good morning Sir.
I love your channel.
I have a question? Do you know where is the transfer switch location on 2019 Keystone Montana Legacy 5th wheel ? I will appreciate it thank you!!
No idea where they put those. However, if you connect to shore power and listen you may hear a clunk where those contactors are closing. That is how I typically find things like that.
What model shore power cord reel do you have?