So doing it that way Doesn’t it come out a quarter inch bigger space on each end towards the wall and then on the other end towards the new post, because on the outsides and you’ll Only lose half the thickness of one baluster instead of half the thickness of two balusters
I have drywall, half wall on my balconies. I want to open up the space and install an attractive railing in place of that half wall. I wonder if half wall is the proper description of the existing railing.
I'm an old retired carpenter. I admire your skills and applaud your willingness to teach. As you get older, some tech school should grab you. Your ability to pass on your knowledge is your most invaluable asset. Respect.
I’m glad I stumbled upon this channel,I am 55 and been installing stairs for 30 years I am old school but I can say I’ve learned some new tips from you,glad to see you take pride and time to do the install correctly, a staircase is like a piece of fine furniture and the focal point of a home good channel take care
Another great video! True craftsmanship. Stairs can be complicated and time consuming. But I usually enjoy the challenge. For those who want an alternative to buying a mortising machine, LJ Smith Stair System now have a plastic insert to be used with a dowel fast screw for hollow metal balusters. They work great and make for a quick and strong install. I made a simple tool for my drill to screw them down, then do the final tightening by hand. The product number is LIH-HOLINSERTW/SCREW. You use them on the bottom of the balusters and the round tops of the balusters go inside holes drilled in the under side of the handrail.
@@InsiderCarpentry If you do, make sure there are no burrs left over from cutting the baluster. In fact, you might even want to lightly ease the bottom edge/corners too so you wont mar the tread/landing tread as you tighten the balusters down. I made a 1/2" baluster runner out of a chuck of wood, plywood and a bolt. Very similar to LJ Smiths LJ-3084-1 baluster runner but smaller of course. Chuck it in the drill to do most of the turning and then finish off the last few turns by hand. You probably will have figured all that out yourself if and when you give it a try. Just wanted to share it for others as well. Hope that helps.
Man, that’s a lot rolling out and rolling up of tools at the start and the end of each day! The knowledge you share with us is priceless! Truly appreciated 🤙🏽
That grinder jig you made.....so cool & genius👍🏻 Project looks nice, good job. Also, like when you talk to us, as everything makes sense, & you explain things easily enough to follow/understand (with examples, very cool). Cheers✌🏼
I did a job a few months ago & it was solid 1/2” metal balusters into maple floor nosing with no boots/shoes..I didn’t have a mortiser so I cut some 1/2 x 1/2 hollow balusters bout 6” long & used my grinder to bevel a sharp edge on all 4 sides like a mortise chisel..I did my layout for equal spacing & drilled a pilot hole on the centers.. then I drilled a 3/8 hole in the pilot holes & slipped the 6” homemade mortise chisel 😅 over the 3/8th bit which fit perfect to keep it centered & hit the sharpened baluster a few times to make a crisp 1/2” square then cleaned it up with a 1/2” chisel..that didn’t take much because most of the wood came out with the drill bit..I used the same method on a couple rakes but also used a 7/16th chisel on the cuts against the grain..the 1/2” chisel dented the wood past the 1/2” layout..but it worked on flat & raked caps..have to make due with what you have available & it looked great when finished
wow! The details in your videos about how you layout are incredible! I greatly enjoy watching and learning. Thank you for taking the tie to make the superb clips.
This video gave me the confidence to do my stair railing and it came out awesome. One of the only and best ones I found, you explained the process so well. You make it look so easy, and it sort of is, but the level of accuracy and nerve racking feeling of knowing a tiny little mistake would spoil the entire thing had me on edge with every mortise. The only thing I had issue with was the CMT mortise bit, The drill bit wanted to wander outside the chisel ever so slight and leave one edge with a little half moon. Took me a bunch of time to file down the bit and then sharpen it. I also had to round over the chisel corners to best match the balusters profile. In the end, super happy with the results, and would have never have tried to do this without this video. Thanks.
When it comes to dividing and layout, as an American carpenter I was blessed to learn metric as an awesome tool for layout! It is not as hard as many think.... Is just that we know how much an inch/foot, etc is. Where as of you are presented with 2.5cm or 30.5cm we don't know how much it is until we've used them a while. Try a metric tape in your kit and you will be surprised how easy it is.... Regular calculator works... No fractional fraction deviation.... Which can add up. BTW, you use metric every day if you know how to count money😉
Just a tip on using metric.... talk in millimetres not centimeters. No need to introduce a decimal place for no reason. Only dress makers and t.v. presenters talk in centimeters. 🤣😂😁😀😎
Thank you for making these videos. I'm learning so much and plan to use all of your advice and tricks on my personal house project. I also very much appreciate your very in-depth explanations. The added details like squaring the bit to the rail by using your scrap is just one example. I'm very thankful I came across your channel and will be buying tools through your affiliate links.
I enjoy finish carpentry, ok not every job, but the part I don’t like is the amount of tools needed. Everything pretty much comes out of the truck. You seem to be doing very well. God bless you brother 🙏🏼💜🇨🇦
Great video. I've done carpentry for a number of years ( hobby ). My cousin is building a house and asked me to build a balcony railing. Other than the windows opposite the balcony I would swear it is the same house. I've never built a railing like this. I appreciate the pointers. Thank you
Hey brother you definitely excel in your craft, there are carpenters and then there are craftsman, down to brass tacks and simplified... comn from a 63 yr old w over 40 yrs in the flooring trade I've excelled in all areas one at a time, I've trained installers and salespeople all over the country and built a certification training school in the St Louis area, in the past 5 yrs we're now excelling in custom historic hardwood flooring now my passion, inevitably slowly getting into stairs and railings being the reason I found your channel LOL. Teaching me a hell of a lot in a short amount of time and I want to thank you. Keep up the awesome work, OH and also seek out some good SEO for your channel you should have well over 100k subscribers to help monetize and conquer lol. God Bless
That stud finder you have in the nail bag is the best one I've used in 40 years of carpentry and joinery. Good work. P.s. that compass is a divider.🤣😂😁😀😎
For anyone looking for these specific tools, those were dividers not a compass and the square was a combination not a double. Having more than one set of dividers can be very useful at times.
I use baluster pro app & put in total length, thickness of baluster & max gap between balusters (4” or less) as you know..but to keep equal spacing & you need an even # of balusters you can’t put a baluster in the center of the run..you have to put center in the center of the space..if you have an odd # of balusters you center the baluster in the center of the rail..hope that makes sense,,my new favorite channel
Brother has everything it takes to build a thriving business for years to come. His attention to details and outstanding customer service is all you will remember him for.
Very clear explanations like all your clinics 👌. I installed prepunched hand rails,so had the inverse problem of cutting different length rails around trims. The hole is for hanging on a chain as its powder coated,then goes through the oven to cure. 1 huge personal pet peeve is keeping the picket to newel post, the same on the ajacent size. This is a little harder with manufactured pre-punched rails. As always clear ,and concise!
So i also screwed my hand rail in from inside and then i see this, im like this man thinks like me! Lol or vise versa, can i get a job working with you? 😆 hey you probably have the best way of conveying your message clear and simple to the viewer. Seriously i have a good job but if you were in SC id love to just go work with you! Be blessed man awesome work!
That’s cool your mortiser bevels, I just did this exact same install with my jet mortising machine to get the rake mortises cut for my stair rail I had to set my mortiser on one of treads and run my rails along the toe of the treads to get the proper angle for my rake although inconvenient it was a bullet proof method of achieving the correct angle
That's super interesting. YOU NEED THIS MORTISER! I put the link in the video notes. Only place you can find the tilting mortisers is Canada right now, but they shipped mine to the states. It was about $900 with the machine and shipping. Not bad.
Insider carpentry I bought a brilliant combination squar almost twenty years ago now, it is magnetic so there's no need for the knurling screw. It's so so easy to set the ruler part for marking of all descriptions. They are more expensive but worth every penny!
I have rolls of quality white painters tape that aids in layout for railing systems. Makes laser sightings easy peezy also where heights are concerned.
The random hole might be for installation on a rake, using a screw. Very hoakie way but that's how one if the big production stair and rail places in Calgary ( Artistic Stair). This guy is the exception to the rule. He does great work. Don't see it done this way very often.
Microsoft Excel is an awesome calculator for carpentry/framing b/c you can create your own custom calculator depending on what you're doing and it can calculate a list of numbers at once and not just 1 number at a time. If you can do standard algebra then you can write Excel formulas. They made it really simple. Its available on smartphone now and not just pc like the old days so you can have it on jobsite. If you input a value in fraction form then you can have it return a value in fraction form. As long as you enter in multiples of 16ths, 32nds, 64ths, etc then everything will be divisible and returned just like you would doing the math yourself using tape measure increments.
I am thrilled to find a video on how to install square balusters without shoes. It is amazingly clear and easy to follow. And you did it without having loud heavy metal music blaring in the background! The guy who came to do the estimate to install my beautiful stainless steel square balusters said he would drill a round hole and then fill the gaps with "something" because, he said, there is no such thing as drilling a square hole. Just wondering how you would do this fine work if the balusters were being set into an existing stringer and not on the horizontal where everything can be taken apart. And thanks for the link for the CMT Mortising Chisel link that it says you can use on a drill press ... do you know if it works? Ok ... I'm gonna go watch more of your videos and have more coffee! Again, many thanks!
Great video! I was hoping you had a magic way to get all the balusters seated - one at a time! Question: where did you put the adhesive? Top and bottom? And an inconsequential comment (retired math teacher). I think you were using dividers and not a compass. But CLEVER!
Yes it’s call cumulative error. There is a way around it though with the const pro Calc ! Gary Katz has a video on stair building cumulative error? I hv notes stuffed in my work shop & I Chk it on stuff like decorative wall trim stuffed in an area where everything has to be exact spacing. I just have to much distance to use a compass on such things! You should grab that video Spencer ( watch I am telling u something u hv seen 50 times)? Sorry buddy if I did? I get all excited bout this stuff!
I enjoyed your video. I have been contemplating doing a very similar detail with the mortises at floor rail. My balusters are 1" solid stock turned on a diamond rather than square to the floor rail. My railing is 25lb. railroad. Which will the balusters will be welded to the bottom of the rail. I would like your take on this plan. Thanks Casey
8:38 Seems like in this instance, if you want to ensure the laser is correctly marking the centers of the hand and shoe rails, it must be aimed completely perpendicular to the rails.
@@InsiderCarpentry Of course in this video, the laser was very close to perfectly perpendicular, so it was fine. I'm just saying for anyone else who might not get it: if the hand & shoe rails are different distances from the laser, and the laser is aimed at an angle, the location that the laser marks the hand rail at will not be perfectly plumb with the laser-marked location on the shoe rail.
Awesome stuff! Question for you tho - how would you approach drilling the floor and rail - if they're already installed? Encountering this in a balluster retrofit. Client wants square holes on bottom, as they're the only visible side. Great content, definitely an artisan in your craft!
Its very easy to do this. Simply drill a 1/2" hole with forstner bit and then hammer out the square mortise with square mortise chisel. I showed how to do this in another video around this time frame with stair treads.
Hey Spencer, whenever I do the spacing calculations, I take the whole number, divide it by how many spaces, then do the equals equals, and the calculater takes into account the 64th, even though it reads out just the 16th measurements, and it still ends up right on. Just what I've found
The hole at the bottom of the balusters is for the set screws on certain types of shoes. Never have seen an installer take the time to line it up though, but, most of the time I was retrofitting iron balusters in existing stairs. From my understanding you install the shoe drop the baluster in the hole and then drop the handrail on and try to line up all the balusters with the holes in the handrail. Not the best way to install just one of many.
Nathaniel Iverson, I also thought the hole was for a set screw as well, that is until I was watching the powder coating and painting process of the balusters and they were using the hole to hang the baluster so it could be accessed 360 degrees. I'm curious though why he chose to cut off the round end of each baluster rather than just drill a hole with a brad point bit and then insert the round end into the shoe rail and just mortise the top rail. The look is still very clean and professional looking but just a little quicker. I know the length on the round end can be a little off, so I've just adjusted a similar cut off jig by drilling the same hole as in the shoe rail into the end of my stop block so that I can be sure each baluster is the same length.
The steel spindle have a slight radius on the corners. I have found after installing a few hundred, that using a 1/4 spiral router bit and a template, I plunge route square holes, spindles slide in. For really tight but shallower mortise a 3/16 bit works. The mortiser is nice, stopped using it 10 years ago in favor of the router.
I simply took a file to the corners of the square chisel to round them over and match the radius of the corner on the balusters. That is what a couple other high end stair installers I know do also.
@@InsiderCarpentry I make a 8' long run template with my 3/4 square holes all on 4" centers. More production based, but I can premortise all my stair treads with a short template, or do in place. It's a pain to use a mortiser with the base reversed so you can stand on it and mortise stair blasters in place. (Had to do on a curved staircase 3 spindles outer radius 2 on the inner, all square lined from center point)
Hi, this is a great series of videos. But, I am a fairly skilled home craftsman in a general sense. Rehabed houses,etc. But I need to do a railing on my own house and I'm Not going to have a dedicted angle mortiser. What's another way to drill those holes in the real for the spindles? I don't care how long it takes. I do care that end up right. Any Help appreciated!
Hi, nice video! Love your work. Question, where in the process did you glue the balusters? Did you put a dab in each of the holes on the top and bottom rail?
Good stuff! Really liking that mortiser too, much better than my benchtop Delta! Do you do your own finish work on the hardwood trim? Curious if something different than stain and varnish is used.
Spencer, good work man! i have a Question if you can answer. does it necessary to use shoe board all the time or is it a code? I'm re working my staircase and the railing and I'm concerning about shoe board on balcony. I'm doing this along with the LVP flooring and thinking not to use shoe board since i do not like the shoe board sitting on top of LVP flooring. if i use the shoe board it's going to be deferent leveling which i do not like. instead I'm thinking to extend my flooring and overhang about 1" over the skirt board and fix balusters direct in to sub floor. that way stair entry floor level same all around and Please let me know what you think.
Spencer, love your videos. A quick question if I may: what would you consider to be the maximum safe distance between newel posts for this type of balustrade?
How do you put your top rail with the gooseneck together or 37 degree top rail where are buts into a short 4 1/2" top rail with two miters that are 18.5 degrees... how would you put that together...? Thank you!
Is the heavy duty version (DWARA050HD)of the dewalt side angle better then the one you use?or is it too big and bulky?or is their another reason you don’t use it?
For that kind of stuff why wouldn't you use metric I mean the compasses preferred but if you had to use measurements I think metric would probably be more precise than trying to do 5/16 732 etc
Those look like balusters from timeline. Someone at the company or my supplier told me the random hole is from the manufacturing process, annoying but necessary apparently.
Ok, so Spencer...I have a question...instead of all of the math calculations and pokery jiggery, why don't you just use the metric system? Everything in millimeters - this makes the math so much easier. Just sayin...
Often times there are issues such as newel post wraps, plinth blocks, and out of plumb walls to factor in which require the pieces to be offset. It’s just easier for me to reduce the chance of errors by laying out in place where I can see everything that is going on.
@@InsiderCarpentry I understand, I just turned 60 and could lose a few lbs. so working on the floor is a last resort for me, luckily I'm not a trim carpenter. I really enjoy your channel and appreciate how you use systems and jigs to increase efficiency.
I will never use PLS lasers ever again. Dont know if its due to Fluke owning them now or what . Im on 8 months of a RMA that they confirmed as defective and agreed to refund me for my pls360 that was underwarranty due to they discontinued and i had to ship it to them it. They just give you the run around hoping you forget about it i guess.
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Sorry to bother, but I was looking for the the brand of the portable "drill press like thing/mortiser" (not just hollow chisel bit/mortiser bit)
It is listed in the video notes.
So doing it that way Doesn’t it come out a quarter inch bigger space on each end towards the wall and then on the other end towards the new post, because on the outsides and you’ll Only lose half the thickness of one baluster instead of half the thickness of two balusters
I have drywall, half wall on my balconies. I want to open up the space and install an attractive railing in place of that half wall. I wonder if half wall is the proper description of the existing railing.
I'm an old retired carpenter. I admire your skills and applaud your willingness to teach. As you get older, some tech school should grab you. Your ability to pass on your knowledge is your most invaluable asset. Respect.
I’m glad I stumbled upon this channel,I am 55 and been installing stairs for 30 years I am old school but I can say I’ve learned some new tips from you,glad to see you take pride and time to do the install correctly, a staircase is like a piece of fine furniture and the focal point of a home good channel take care
I find it crazy you only have 58 k subscribers . One of my favorite channels on You Tube!
Yes exactly
58001
97000 now
Another great video! True craftsmanship. Stairs can be complicated and time consuming. But I usually enjoy the challenge.
For those who want an alternative to buying a mortising machine, LJ Smith Stair System now have a plastic insert to be used with a dowel fast screw for hollow metal balusters. They work great and make for a quick and strong install. I made a simple tool for my drill to screw them down, then do the final tightening by hand. The product number is LIH-HOLINSERTW/SCREW. You use them on the bottom of the balusters and the round tops of the balusters go inside holes drilled in the under side of the handrail.
Thanks! I'd like to try those sometime.
@@InsiderCarpentry If you do, make sure there are no burrs left over from cutting the baluster. In fact, you might even want to lightly ease the bottom edge/corners too so you wont mar the tread/landing tread as you tighten the balusters down.
I made a 1/2" baluster runner out of a chuck of wood, plywood and a bolt. Very similar to LJ Smiths LJ-3084-1 baluster runner but smaller of course. Chuck it in the drill to do most of the turning and then finish off the last few turns by hand.
You probably will have figured all that out yourself if and when you give it a try. Just wanted to share it for others as well. Hope that helps.
Man, that’s a lot rolling out and rolling up of tools at the start and the end of each day! The knowledge you share with us is priceless! Truly appreciated 🤙🏽
I leave all my large tools setup. And often leave some small tools out. Theft hasn’t been a big problem and they are insured.
You earned a subscriber. Such a better look not having shoes on bottom of baluster. I will now quietly judge each staircase I see. Great job.
That grinder jig you made.....so cool & genius👍🏻
Project looks nice, good job. Also, like when you talk to us, as everything makes sense, & you explain things easily enough to follow/understand (with examples, very cool).
Cheers✌🏼
I've been making/installing custom stairs of all types for the last 5 years and I learned some great tips here. Thanks bud
I did a job a few months ago & it was solid 1/2” metal balusters into maple floor nosing with no boots/shoes..I didn’t have a mortiser so I cut some 1/2 x 1/2 hollow balusters bout 6” long & used my grinder to bevel a sharp edge on all 4 sides like a mortise chisel..I did my layout for equal spacing & drilled a pilot hole on the centers.. then I drilled a 3/8 hole in the pilot holes & slipped the 6” homemade mortise chisel 😅 over the 3/8th bit which fit perfect to keep it centered & hit the sharpened baluster a few times to make a crisp 1/2” square then cleaned it up with a 1/2” chisel..that didn’t take much because most of the wood came out with the drill bit..I used the same method on a couple rakes but also used a 7/16th chisel on the cuts against the grain..the 1/2” chisel dented the wood past the 1/2” layout..but it worked on flat & raked caps..have to make due with what you have available & it looked great when finished
wow! The details in your videos about how you layout are incredible! I greatly enjoy watching and learning. Thank you for taking the tie to make the superb clips.
This video gave me the confidence to do my stair railing and it came out awesome. One of the only and best ones I found, you explained the process so well. You make it look so easy, and it sort of is, but the level of accuracy and nerve racking feeling of knowing a tiny little mistake would spoil the entire thing had me on edge with every mortise. The only thing I had issue with was the CMT mortise bit, The drill bit wanted to wander outside the chisel ever so slight and leave one edge with a little half moon. Took me a bunch of time to file down the bit and then sharpen it. I also had to round over the chisel corners to best match the balusters profile. In the end, super happy with the results, and would have never have tried to do this without this video. Thanks.
Glad to hear it helped. 👊👊
This guy is the man. Always good info and good quality and doesn’t act like a clown like the rest of these you tubers. That’s what people want to see
Anybody lucky enough to have you grace their house with your craftsmanship is like winning the lottery. You’re such a pro!
When it comes to dividing and layout, as an American carpenter I was blessed to learn metric as an awesome tool for layout! It is not as hard as many think.... Is just that we know how much an inch/foot, etc is. Where as of you are presented with 2.5cm or 30.5cm we don't know how much it is until we've used them a while. Try a metric tape in your kit and you will be surprised how easy it is.... Regular calculator works... No fractional fraction deviation.... Which can add up. BTW, you use metric every day if you know how to count money😉
Just a tip on using metric.... talk in millimetres not centimeters. No need to introduce a decimal place for no reason. Only dress makers and t.v. presenters talk in centimeters. 🤣😂😁😀😎
Thank you for making these videos. I'm learning so much and plan to use all of your advice and tricks on my personal house project. I also very much appreciate your very in-depth explanations. The added details like squaring the bit to the rail by using your scrap is just one example. I'm very thankful I came across your channel and will be buying tools through your affiliate links.
I enjoy finish carpentry, ok not every job, but the part I don’t like is the amount of tools needed. Everything pretty much comes out of the truck. You seem to be doing very well. God bless you brother 🙏🏼💜🇨🇦
you are a master craftsman. I've watched a dozen of your videos, tackling an open staircase now.
thank you for sharing
Great video. I've done carpentry for a number of years ( hobby ). My cousin is building a house and asked me to build a balcony railing. Other than the windows opposite the balcony I would swear it is the same house. I've never built a railing like this. I appreciate the pointers. Thank you
It’s been a year, so I’m interested in how you managed with your baluster project
Hey brother you definitely excel in your craft, there are carpenters and then there are craftsman, down to brass tacks and simplified... comn from a 63 yr old w over 40 yrs in the flooring trade I've excelled in all areas one at a time, I've trained installers and salespeople all over the country and built a certification training school in the St Louis area, in the past 5 yrs we're now excelling in custom historic hardwood flooring now my passion, inevitably slowly getting into stairs and railings being the reason I found your channel LOL. Teaching me a hell of a lot in a short amount of time and I want to thank you. Keep up the awesome work, OH and also seek out some good SEO for your channel you should have well over 100k subscribers to help monetize and conquer lol. God Bless
Thanks you sir. I appreciate the kind words. 👍👊👊
That stud finder you have in the nail bag is the best one I've used in 40 years of carpentry and joinery. Good work. P.s. that compass is a divider.🤣😂😁😀😎
For anyone looking for these specific tools, those were dividers not a compass and the square was a combination not a double. Having more than one set of dividers can be very useful at times.
Very pleasing to see a real professional do his craft, aside from all the learning.
I use baluster pro app & put in total length, thickness of baluster & max gap between balusters (4” or less) as you know..but to keep equal spacing & you need an even # of balusters you can’t put a baluster in the center of the run..you have to put center in the center of the space..if you have an odd # of balusters you center the baluster in the center of the rail..hope that makes sense,,my new favorite channel
U are freaking amazing. amazing work I've been at it for 5 years and watching ur channel is like watching a good Netflix series.
Brother has everything it takes to build a thriving business for years to come. His attention to details and outstanding customer service is all you will remember him for.
Very clear explanations like all your clinics 👌.
I installed prepunched hand rails,so had the inverse problem of cutting different length rails around trims.
The hole is for hanging on a chain as its powder coated,then goes through the oven to cure.
1 huge personal pet peeve is keeping the picket to newel post, the same on the ajacent size.
This is a little harder with manufactured pre-punched rails.
As always clear ,and concise!
Good to know. I knew there had to be some reason for that hole but I've never had a clue what.
Nice demo,looking forward to the the rake installation.
So i also screwed my hand rail in from inside and then i see this, im like this man thinks like me! Lol or vise versa, can i get a job working with you? 😆 hey you probably have the best way of conveying your message clear and simple to the viewer. Seriously i have a good job but if you were in SC id love to just go work with you! Be blessed man awesome work!
Little hole on baluster is where they hang them to powder coat and bake. Good videos.
Good audio, good video and great information. Very detailed. Thanks.
Thanks Spencer. Another Great Lesson.
The BalusterPro app works great for evenly spaced layouts. Certainly nothing wrong with using a calculator, but I find that the app makes it easier.
That’s cool your mortiser bevels, I just did this exact same install with my jet mortising machine
to get the rake mortises cut for my stair rail I had to set my mortiser on one of treads and run my rails along the toe of the treads to get the proper angle for my rake although inconvenient it was a bullet proof method of achieving the correct angle
That's super interesting. YOU NEED THIS MORTISER! I put the link in the video notes. Only place you can find the tilting mortisers is Canada right now, but they shipped mine to the states. It was about $900 with the machine and shipping. Not bad.
Nice work as always. In my neck of the woods, we call those tools a combination square and a divider.
I always mess up the proper terminology. 🤷♂️🤦♂️
Insider carpentry I bought a brilliant combination squar almost twenty years ago now, it is magnetic so there's no need for the knurling screw. It's so so easy to set the ruler part for marking of all descriptions. They are more expensive but worth every penny!
You definitely know your stuff! Good on you brother 🍻 learned a lot
Thanks again man! I always look forward to your videos!
Beautiful work…I’ve might have learned a thing or two as a bonus
I have rolls of quality white painters tape that aids in layout for railing systems. Makes laser sightings easy peezy also where heights are concerned.
Thanks for these videos Spencer! Great info on all of them!
Excellent content! I need to do this for a small section on my basement
Great work - have enjoyed following you and expanding my knowledge base of techniques & tools...keep at it!!!
True craftsman
That random hole at the bottom of the baluster is probably there to hang it so it can be painted, powder coated or whatever the finish is.
The random hole might be for installation on a rake, using a screw. Very hoakie way but that's how one if the big production stair and rail places in Calgary ( Artistic Stair). This guy is the exception to the rule. He does great work. Don't see it done this way very often.
Thank you for your time and thank you for video it’s very good information 👍
Nice mortiser and nice work
Excellent tips!
The hole is for hanging the spindles for powder spraying in the factory.
As always, awesome! Learn so much from you...thank you!
Im pretty sure i would have knocked my drill off the top of that newel post and watched it bounce on the first floor.
Ron Jones hehe, I was thinking the same thing!
Good job man, appreciate it sharing it with us.
Microsoft Excel is an awesome calculator for carpentry/framing b/c you can create your own custom calculator depending on what you're doing and it can calculate a list of numbers at once and not just 1 number at a time. If you can do standard algebra then you can write Excel formulas. They made it really simple. Its available on smartphone now and not just pc like the old days so you can have it on jobsite. If you input a value in fraction form then you can have it return a value in fraction form. As long as you enter in multiples of 16ths, 32nds, 64ths, etc then everything will be divisible and returned just like you would doing the math yourself using tape measure increments.
Keep up the good work.
I am thrilled to find a video on how to install square balusters without shoes. It is amazingly clear and easy to follow. And you did it without having loud heavy metal music blaring in the background! The guy who came to do the estimate to install my beautiful stainless steel square balusters said he would drill a round hole and then fill the gaps with "something" because, he said, there is no such thing as drilling a square hole. Just wondering how you would do this fine work if the balusters were being set into an existing stringer and not on the horizontal where everything can be taken apart. And thanks for the link for the CMT Mortising Chisel link that it says you can use on a drill press ... do you know if it works? Ok ... I'm gonna go watch more of your videos and have more coffee! Again, many thanks!
Use a drilling jig and hammer the hollow chisel manually
A lesson in maths and perfection.
@C I In the UK it's maths.
Exceptional guidance! Thank you!
to make the division of the baluster I use an app called baluster pro, it is easy and saves a lot of time, it can even be used in stair railing.
A lost art for sure...I don't know anyone personally that does stair carpentry. Wish this dude lived near me haha
Keep up the great work 💪👍
Great video as always! 👍🙂👍
I think the small hole at the end is for hanging the rod for painting or powder coat.
Great video! I was hoping you had a magic way to get all the balusters seated - one at a time! Question: where did you put the adhesive? Top and bottom? And an inconsequential comment (retired math teacher). I think you were using dividers and not a compass. But CLEVER!
Yep, a little adhesive top and bottom. And I’m always mixing up the proper terms! 😂👊
Yes it’s call cumulative error. There is a way around it though with the const pro Calc ! Gary Katz has a video on stair building cumulative error?
I hv notes stuffed in my work shop & I Chk it on stuff like decorative wall trim stuffed in an area where everything has to be exact spacing.
I just have to much distance to use a compass on such things!
You should grab that video Spencer ( watch I am telling u something u hv seen 50 times)?
Sorry buddy if I did? I get all excited bout this stuff!
I’ll definitely check it out. 👊
Hey i want u to know I support you for all your teaching videos by buying my tools thru your store @ Amazon Prime!
Thanks Buddy God Bless
Fantastic work man!
Do you need a special drill press for the square Mortise?
I enjoyed your video. I have been contemplating doing a very similar detail with the mortises at floor rail. My balusters are 1" solid stock turned on a diamond rather than square to the floor rail. My railing is 25lb. railroad. Which will the balusters will be welded to the bottom of the rail. I would like your take on this plan.
Thanks
Casey
Thanks for the great video-With the balusters being tight in there, how do you do the adhesive? Just a small dab and wipe it around the outside?
Nice job!
8:38 Seems like in this instance, if you want to ensure the laser is correctly marking the centers of the hand and shoe rails, it must be aimed completely perpendicular to the rails.
Close is good enough in this instance being that the center point and handrail should be near perfectly plumb.
@@InsiderCarpentry Of course in this video, the laser was very close to perfectly perpendicular, so it was fine. I'm just saying for anyone else who might not get it: if the hand & shoe rails are different distances from the laser, and the laser is aimed at an angle, the location that the laser marks the hand rail at will not be perfectly plumb with the laser-marked location on the shoe rail.
Awesome stuff! Question for you tho - how would you approach drilling the floor and rail - if they're already installed? Encountering this in a balluster retrofit. Client wants square holes on bottom, as they're the only visible side. Great content, definitely an artisan in your craft!
Its very easy to do this. Simply drill a 1/2" hole with forstner bit and then hammer out the square mortise with square mortise chisel. I showed how to do this in another video around this time frame with stair treads.
Hey Spencer, whenever I do the spacing calculations, I take the whole number, divide it by how many spaces, then do the equals equals, and the calculater takes into account the 64th, even though it reads out just the 16th measurements, and it still ends up right on. Just what I've found
Use the BuildCalc app , it works much better for Stair builders and especially baluster spacing. It is also much simplify
Duayne Naugle nothing better than the construction master pro Calc. That app is for rookies and diy’ers
Jeremy Cline I’ve done over 2000 stairways so I wouldn’t consider myself a rookie
Duayne Naugle 21 plus years and the last 15 with the construction master calc. I guess I’ll try that out since it’s brought you much success. Thanks
Jeremy Cline I have both CMPro and BuildCalc on my phone. As a Stairbuilder , Buildcalc is the one I go to every time .
The hole at the bottom of the balusters is for the set screws on certain types of shoes. Never have seen an installer take the time to line it up though, but, most of the time I was retrofitting iron balusters in existing stairs. From my understanding you install the shoe drop the baluster in the hole and then drop the handrail on and try to line up all the balusters with the holes in the handrail. Not the best way to install just one of many.
Nathaniel Iverson, I also thought the hole was for a set screw as well, that is until I was watching the powder coating and painting process of the balusters and they were using the hole to hang the baluster so it could be accessed 360 degrees.
I'm curious though why he chose to cut off the round end of each baluster rather than just drill a hole with a brad point bit and then insert the round end into the shoe rail and just mortise the top rail. The look is still very clean and professional looking but just a little quicker.
I know the length on the round end can be a little off, so I've just adjusted a similar cut off jig by drilling the same hole as in the shoe rail into the end of my stop block so that I can be sure each baluster is the same length.
The steel spindle have a slight radius on the corners. I have found after installing a few hundred, that using a 1/4 spiral router bit and a template, I plunge route square holes, spindles slide in. For really tight but shallower mortise a 3/16 bit works. The mortiser is nice, stopped using it 10 years ago in favor of the router.
I simply took a file to the corners of the square chisel to round them over and match the radius of the corner on the balusters. That is what a couple other high end stair installers I know do also.
@@InsiderCarpentry I make a 8' long run template with my 3/4 square holes all on 4" centers. More production based, but I can premortise all my stair treads with a short template, or do in place. It's a pain to use a mortiser with the base reversed so you can stand on it and mortise stair blasters in place. (Had to do on a curved staircase 3 spindles outer radius 2 on the inner, all square lined from center point)
good stuff!
I want to see a video on your miter saw setup!
Hi, this is a great series of videos. But, I am a fairly skilled home craftsman in a general sense. Rehabed houses,etc. But I need to do a railing on my own house and I'm Not going to have a dedicted angle mortiser. What's another way to drill those holes in the real for the spindles? I don't care how long it takes. I do care that end up right. Any Help appreciated!
Hey bud. Cant seem to find your video on the rake handrail. Excellent work by the way.
Is there a way to do this without that square mortiser drill press?
So how did you secure the bottom rail to the floor so that it wouldn’t move?
Nice!💜
How did you learn this? How long have you been doing it? You seem like an engineer at heart :)
I just try and learn anything I can from whoever I can whenever I can. Started in construction at 16 years old.
@@InsiderCarpentry hey man, are those miter saw blades are better than diablo or dewalt?
thanks for the vid - very helpful. Can you tell me where you bought the balusters? I would like to use the same and trust that you chose quality ones.
Hi, nice video! Love your work. Question, where in the process did you glue the balusters? Did you put a dab in each of the holes on the top and bottom rail?
Good stuff! Really liking that mortiser too, much better than my benchtop Delta! Do you do your own finish work on the hardwood trim? Curious if something different than stain and varnish is used.
Thanks! No, I only install. Painters take care of all the finishing.
Lovely job mate. How did you fasten the shoe rail ,screw it down through the spindle holes ?
Just some 15 gauge nails. Sometimes I'll put adhesive on the underside also.
Round hole in balusters are for factory powder coat
Spencer, good work man! i have a Question if you can answer. does it necessary to use shoe board all the time or is it a code? I'm re working my staircase and the railing and I'm concerning about shoe board on balcony. I'm doing this along with the LVP flooring and thinking not to use shoe board since i do not like the shoe board sitting on top of LVP flooring. if i use the shoe board it's going to be deferent leveling which i do not like. instead I'm thinking to extend my flooring and overhang about 1" over the skirt board and fix balusters direct in to sub floor. that way stair entry floor level same all around and Please let me know what you think.
Spencer, love your videos. A quick question if I may: what would you consider to be the maximum safe distance between newel posts for this type of balustrade?
How do you put your top rail with the gooseneck together or 37 degree top rail where are buts into a short 4 1/2" top rail with two miters that are 18.5 degrees... how would you put that together...? Thank you!
Can you please expalin the cutting station it's really nice
I’d be interim knowing how you charge. Buy the project or do you have a general hourly rate. I aways charge by the project. Thank you 🙏🏼🇨🇦
I bid everything. Never hourly.
Is the heavy duty version (DWARA050HD)of the dewalt side angle better then the one you use?or is it too big and bulky?or is their another reason you don’t use it?
For that kind of stuff why wouldn't you use metric I mean the compasses preferred but if you had to use measurements I think metric would probably be more precise than trying to do 5/16 732 etc
where can I get the mortiser, awesome channel thanks 45 plus years trimming!!
Links are in video description notes.
Those look like balusters from timeline. Someone at the company or my supplier told me the random hole is from the manufacturing process, annoying but necessary apparently.
Someone else said that also. Apparently they hang them by that hole while powder coating.
Ok, so Spencer...I have a question...instead of all of the math calculations and pokery jiggery, why don't you just use the metric system? Everything in millimeters - this makes the math so much easier. Just sayin...
When I try this my first space and last space is half the width of the baluster larger then the rest of my spaces
What am I doing wrong
Crap on the floor drives me nuts! I kept wanting you to sweep the other tradesman's debris off the floor.
I hear ya. I should have cleaned it up before I started. It was in my way the whole time.
Why did you do the layout on the floor vs your miter station or other comfortable height surface?
Often times there are issues such as newel post wraps, plinth blocks, and out of plumb walls to factor in which require the pieces to be offset. It’s just easier for me to reduce the chance of errors by laying out in place where I can see everything that is going on.
@@InsiderCarpentry I understand, I just turned 60 and could lose a few lbs. so working on the floor is a last resort for me, luckily I'm not a trim carpenter. I really enjoy your channel and appreciate how you use systems and jigs to increase efficiency.
I will never use PLS lasers ever again. Dont know if its due to Fluke owning them now or what . Im on 8 months of a RMA that they confirmed as defective and agreed to refund me for my pls360 that was underwarranty due to they discontinued and i had to ship it to them it. They just give you the run around hoping you forget about it i guess.
That hole helps to hold the baluster while it's being sprayed.