Money well spent, another shop fired the parts cannon and it still overheats.
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
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Due to factors beyond the control of The Offroading Mechanic, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. The Offroading Mechanic assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. The Offroading Mechanic recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Offroading Mechanic, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
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Thank You for going thru how you would diagnose an intermediate overheating condition. I learned a lot!!
My 2004 Civic had the same issue a few years ago at around 135K miles. A few weeks prior it overheating, I noticed the coolant level kept rising, that confused the hell out of me. At the time I even did not know what head gasket is. But a quick google search showed it's a common issue with 7th gen Civics. Can't believe the other shop missed it. I ended up doing the job myself after watching a bunch of youtube videos. Screwed something up the first time, since the car started to consume a lot of oil, like a quart for 200 miles. Re-did the headgasket, plus new piston rings, and put a new PCV valve. 35K miles later and it runs great. But it still bothers me if the crazy oil consumption was caused by the PCV valve and not the piston rings, will never know.
Not often piston rings on a 7th gen civic is the issue with oil burning. They're pretty good as long as you keep doing your oil changes. They blow more head gaskets than actually burn oil due to piston rings.
Good Work! Those no spill funnels are the best!
How does a professional mechanic miss a leaking head gasket? Seems like diagnostics 101. Hopefully they own up to their error.
My manager called me up to explain it to the owners I think at that point they wanted to just get rid of the car and not have to be dealing with it anymore.
You know the hardest thing to find is diagnostic tutorials.
So much it has me questioning myself.
Im about to parts cannon myself.
Just to get it up and check it out i had to get 2 2x6 stacked under the jack. And a 6 ft breaker to get one side lugs off, and i had to all in on pulling it at me from 12 oclock lol.
Cant imagine what other unexpected will pop up doing actual work.
Diagnostic doesn't have to be hard. As long as you understand how something works and what component does what and what it is supposed to be doing then it's just a matter of figuring out where the problem is. It was how my teacher taught me rather than memorize everything and more understanding how things work and it was easier than having to memorize everything for a test and I think that's how things should be taught.
Bubbles coming out from the radiator can also mean air pockets still trapped in the cooling system. Also, a block tester can be used to check for combustion gases present, which is the most accurate test to diagnose a head gasket issue, other than thick white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, "milk chocolate" substance as a result of mixing coolant and oil, bubbles in the coolant reservoir, etc, the usual signs of a bad head gasket.
Must be a big air pocket for it to be bubbling still after almost 1000kms and I've had it running for the last hr in the shop and it was still bubbling. If it was an air pocket it would have bled it out by now. It's not some poor Subaru thermostat design where it makes it difficult to bleed the air out. A combustion gas tester I feel is more of a gimmick if you want to visually see it sure but I've done enough headgaskets/diagnose headgasket issues without it. A headgasket also doesn't necessarily mean you will have a milkshake in your oil as it just burns off through combustion. And doesn't almost have white smoke. I have other videos of headgasket issues when using a borescope to look in the cylinder just having misfires on cold starts and goes away. Actually I just finished a headgasket on an element today which was what was shown at the end of a video.
The manifold crack is a common issue for that particular generation of civic - I had to replace mine eventually because the o2 sensor seized into the manifold. If you do attempt to repair the manifold and replace it, don’t bother with any kind of epoxy or sealant - the heat exhaust is too much. The bolts typically seize from rust so you may be better just cutting the nuts off if they’re stuck or else you’ll be fishing them out of the engine head. The camshaft seal cap probably should be replaced as the oil leak will eventually cause other progressive engine failure issues
That manifold is over 2k CAD we usually will take our company car and go over to the coworkers place to weld it up in is garage grab some lunch on the way back since he doesn't live to far from work. But at least it will get by for a couple of years before it'll crack again.
@@theoffroadingmechanicI watched that at the end of the video. I felt the manifold was too thin and brittle of a piece to properly weld shut but perhaps that’s my lack of experience. If your team can do it, please do so. That part is ridiculously expensive and a PITA to get out of the engine bay.
That too bad after spending all that money.
Good to know.
Thanks for the video
I wonder does welding the exhaust manifold crack work long term? I saw another video where someone did a similar repair but it cracked again shortly.
Usually it'll last maybe 2 years before it cracks again. They always crack but it's still cheaper than a 2k manifold because it has the catalytic converter on it.
all it needs is one Rec “new car” lol everything is broken in this one. stop looking! you’ll find more issues.
An 05 civic that overheats? Havent even watch the video and i know the head gasket is done. Lol
It's a common thing, surprise that other shops don't know about it they probably make more money than I do doing what they do.
Head gasket and internal problem with radiator.
Hi when thermosat is closed, i assume the top hose will be warm because the water pump is pushing the coolant to the top of radiaor .. but bottom hose should be cold because he bottom hose is connected to thermostat and it didnot opened...
when themostat open water flows thru from bottom of radiator thru thermosatt to engine block, now bottom will be wamt to touch and top willl be hot..
is my undersatnding right,.. i allways get cconfused the flow and the hose that get hot .. Pls advise.
The concept will be the same if it's a top flow or a side flow radiator. All you need to know is where the thermostat is. All it does is prevent the cooled coolant from the radiator into the engine block. Which is why you always feel if the hose where the thermostat is to know if it starts getting warm as it opens and it is allowing the coolant from the radiator into the engine. With newer cars they are using a switching valve for circulating your coolant to just the heater core or from the radiator or both but nothing beats a good old thermostat as like any electrical plastic component they leak into the electrical part of it and it fails. For example on the Hyundai's they went away from a thermostat and they call it an integrated thermal management module. Early models that came out with this had some issues and we had to replace them.
@@theoffroadingmechanic thanks so much. I have 2005 pilot changing my old cv axle to stop that vibration. For some reason the cv axle on passenger side is not just going in. Infact I rotated that intermediate shaft snap ring to 12 o clock position. I try to hammer it lightly the axle it is not just going in. Any advise or tips u have. I know I missing some technique. I always find challenging on passenger side cv axle. I have done 5 times in past, I have to spend 3 hours just to put it past that snap ring
I use a little bit of grease so it helps hold the ring in the grove and helps in sliding the shaft in and if you have a dead blow hammer just make sure it's going in straight maybe have a buddy to hold it while you smack it with a dead blow.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks much it worked. But however even after replacing both cv axle OEM i still see vibraion at 20mph on litle acceleration. infact i changed intermeidate shaft as well. do you think if drive shaftt can cause vibration..
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks much.. I finally figured out the vibration issue, it is coming from torque converter not from cv axle. when i put my car on D3 manual i am not getting the vibration at 30 mph but when i put it in D i get vibraiton at 30 mph. so is there a PID in 2005 hondapilot to find out if torque converter is engaged .. also pls advise hwo do i differentiate cv axle vs torque converter vibraiton issue. i could not differentiate the two.
Thanks for the video. But I wouldn't use that dirty funnel to put fluid into my car.
The "dirty" funnel is just from being used to bleed air out from the cooling system. It's stained into the plastic/ embedded into it from years of use. It doesn't come off. Best 30 bucks I've spent for the last 8 years.