In this video I run 4 different brand 6 axle locomotives on KATO R249 (~9.75") & R216 (~8.5") curves. Since those all worked, I decided to try a couple 8 axle locomotives.
Very grateful for this! Been considering dabbling in N using an ironing board as a base, expanding the edges to accommodate curves for continuous running. Hidden from view, as much as possible! Haven’t decided on motive power but this definitely helps!
This video is super helpful, especially for someone new to N scale like myself. Just started a 58" x 22.5" layout in a coffee table after seeing this video last week. I was worried R218 and R249 were going to be too tight but now I'm off to the races, thanks!
I usually don't have issues with 6 axle locomotives till I get down to the 6-3/4" track. And even then some of them work but it's hit or miss. Things change when you stick a turnout onto a tight-ish radius. I have found that sometimes my 6-axle units will split the turnout. Probably due to the rotational force on the truck if the range of movement is at its limit. OF course that also varies from different manufacturers and models.
Excellent job on the video Roy . I will say I am very impressed they all stayed on the track at high speeds . I'll admit I don't much care for the look of those long cars and engines going around the tight curves but the SD 40's looked the best negating both curves . Thanks for the comparison and you have some fine looking locos to boot.
Thank you for this. This was exactly the video I needed. Trying to devise a Christmas train on a 22" table. I thought I was going to have to do Z scale, but it looks like N scale is def an option too.
Thanks roy for this. Very informational and answers alot of questions. I'm glad to now ill be able to use my 6 axles on the inner most track of my yard. My yard has radius curves of 480,447,414,381 ,348,315,282,249. Take care!
I will be using some R249's in few areas of my layout as well. I will likely use the R216s in my planned walther's build, it'll be all older steam/transition era small cars, so it should look ok.
When I got into N Gauge I started with a very small layout with a 4 axle GP-35 and Kato 9.75 radius. I wanted to practice the basics especially landscaping before moving to a larger permanent layout. To make rail operations smoother I filed the rail joints. But on one spot I was careless and ended up filing a small dip. It didn't bother the GP-35, but when I added a six axle ES44 I had derailments every time the loco hit that small imperfect joint. I concluded that if there was that much pressure between the loco wheel flanges and the rails on 9.75 inch track, I didn't wish to subject my ES44 to it anymore. I added 3 inches to the width of my layout, removed all the track, and headed to my hobby shop for some 11 inch track. Happy to add that my permanent layout ended up with 12 + 3/8 radius with 19 and 15 inch easements.
great video! was alittle awkward watching the bigger locomotives go through the curves and overhanging like that, but atleast they made it. i think you should push alittle more and see how small they can go (can anyone else imagine seeing the u50 going through the R152 or even R117, though highly unlikely with that last one)
Thanks Jigoku Samurai! Was a fun video to make. The U50 might be able to do the R183, but I doubt any of them would handle the even smaller curves, I'll have to give it a try.
I'm fairly new to the hobby and stick with R249 as that seems to be the minimum radius stated by manufacturers. Thou, it is nice to see I could go down to the next radius if I needed too. Thanks.
That Was Darn Awesome Demo Roy especially Running the DD 40 which I'd love to Get my Hands onto that is one Engine I wished Athearn or ScaleTrains would Bring to the Table Next them dual Engines one firing after the other.. thats crazy Good And seeing that one Engine did not Derail Kato did there work in good way.. So did the Manufacturer of each Engine.. its neat to see engines that we're made back a few years ago Run like there Brand New... Wanted to pass on i got some new Videos out if you have few minutes give em' look over.. Take Care & be Well Allen D
Nice experiments there and I am glad that they do work. However I would feel more comfortable using shorter length trains for the fear of a collision when passing each other. Kato UniTrack is some of the best around in my opinion.
One guy in my T-Trak club would argue with me till he was Smurf colored about how a 6 axle locomotive won’t make is around standard T-Trak curves (282 and 315mm) and we needed to scrap all our (read mine as I was the ONLY member that had curves) and build only large radii superelevated curves. I repeatedly ran my 6 axle locomotives on the inside line and I also would make comments like “I sure wish these 6 axle locomotives could make the standard curves…”.
Well that’s okay for T-Trak but … if you’re making more than a NASCAR oval, there are issues. Coming out of a 249 or 216 to a #4 turnout, messy business a majority of the time. The 15* crossings are finicky too unless they are followed by a 282 15* to get them back parallel.
It's same with european models, a little bit shorter, but can do 170 mm. Also some long passenger cars. Looks very silly, but possible. I use only 295, some points 262.
Well, guess they just don't care how tight the curve is! I'm about to invest $1000 in Kato n scale track. Just trying to figure out the curves. I hate not using my endless amount of atlas code 80, but I just want EASY and not fight old tracks. ;)
For my mainline where I want to run long trains I stick to R282 (11inch) curves or more, but for industry areas and yards having some R249 (9.75inch) is fine, and if you run short trains Like in this video then the smaller radius curves are fine.
Thank you. Great demonstration.
Very grateful for this! Been considering dabbling in N using an ironing board as a base, expanding the edges to accommodate curves for continuous running. Hidden from view, as much as possible! Haven’t decided on motive power but this definitely helps!
This video is super helpful, especially for someone new to N scale like myself. Just started a 58" x 22.5" layout in a coffee table after seeing this video last week. I was worried R218 and R249 were going to be too tight but now I'm off to the races, thanks!
thank you demonstrating..i get tired of being told these engines cant run on sharp radius when in fact they can.
Yep, I did this video in response to some folks saying they don't work.
I usually don't have issues with 6 axle locomotives till I get down to the 6-3/4" track. And even then some of them work but it's hit or miss. Things change when you stick a turnout onto a tight-ish radius. I have found that sometimes my 6-axle units will split the turnout. Probably due to the rotational force on the truck if the range of movement is at its limit. OF course that also varies from different manufacturers and models.
Excellent job on the video Roy . I will say I am very impressed they all stayed on the track at high speeds .
I'll admit I don't much care for the look of those long cars and engines going around the tight curves but the SD 40's looked the best negating both curves . Thanks for the comparison and you have some fine looking locos to boot.
Yeah, The long cars and loco's don't look good on the small curves, I was just running them for demonstration purposes.
Thank you for this. This was exactly the video I needed. Trying to devise a Christmas train on a 22" table. I thought I was going to have to do Z scale, but it looks like N scale is def an option too.
Thanks roy for this. Very informational and answers alot of questions. I'm glad to now ill be able to use my 6 axles on the inner most track of my yard. My yard has radius curves of 480,447,414,381 ,348,315,282,249. Take care!
I will be using some R249's in few areas of my layout as well. I will likely use the R216s in my planned walther's build, it'll be all older steam/transition era small cars, so it should look ok.
I appreciate this video. Helpful. Amazing that the centennial runs on that.
Wow. Thanks for that comparison of 216mm and 249mm curves. I will now re-do my turnaround track to use 216mm.
This guy lives life dangerously.
LOL, nah. no danger here. ;)
When I got into N Gauge I started with a very small layout with a 4 axle GP-35 and Kato 9.75 radius. I wanted to practice the basics especially landscaping before moving to a larger permanent layout. To make rail operations smoother I filed the rail joints. But on one spot I was careless and ended up filing a small dip. It didn't bother the GP-35, but when I added a six axle ES44 I had derailments every time the loco hit that small imperfect joint. I concluded that if there was that much pressure between the loco wheel flanges and the rails on 9.75 inch track, I didn't wish to subject my ES44 to it anymore. I added 3 inches to the width of my layout, removed all the track, and headed to my hobby shop for some 11 inch track. Happy to add that my permanent layout ended up with 12 + 3/8 radius with 19 and 15 inch easements.
Thanks Roy. I have some 9.75" radius curves coming to my layout soon.
Wow thats very impressive! Good job!
Thank you!
excellent video was on the fence about the 8 1/2 radius track but this helped a lot!
yeah, I don't plan to use the 8.5" radius on my proper layout, but maybe on a small one for just old time small cars.
I want to do a shelf layout with tight turnarounds (ideally hidden by tunnels) and broad curves along the shelf part. This is helpful. Thank you
Marvellous
great video! was alittle awkward watching the bigger locomotives go through the curves and overhanging like that, but atleast they made it. i think you should push alittle more and see how small they can go (can anyone else imagine seeing the u50 going through the R152 or even R117, though highly unlikely with that last one)
Thanks Jigoku Samurai! Was a fun video to make. The U50 might be able to do the R183, but I doubt any of them would handle the even smaller curves, I'll have to give it a try.
I'm about to try the sd70ace on some r150mm and r183mm if your interested. I think it will work as long as the cars as short enough.
The Kato SD70ACE notes it can be run on 9.75 inch radius. On Kato's website.
Sure, but it works reasonably well on the 8.5 inch curves too.
@@RoyEltham Good to know.
I'm fairly new to the hobby and stick with R249 as that seems to be the minimum radius stated by manufacturers. Thou, it is nice to see I could go down to the next radius if I needed too. Thanks.
GOOD UPDATE KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK ON YOUR LAYOUT
That Was Darn Awesome Demo Roy especially Running the DD 40 which I'd love to Get my Hands onto that is one Engine I wished Athearn or ScaleTrains would Bring to the Table Next them dual Engines one firing after the other.. thats crazy Good And seeing that one Engine did not Derail Kato did there work in good way.. So did the Manufacturer of each Engine.. its neat to see engines that we're made back a few years ago Run like there Brand New... Wanted to pass on i got some new Videos out if you have few minutes give em' look over..
Take Care & be Well Allen D
Nice experiments there and I am glad that they do work. However I would feel more comfortable using shorter length trains for the fear of a collision when passing each other. Kato UniTrack is some of the best around in my opinion.
One guy in my T-Trak club would argue with me till he was Smurf colored about how a 6 axle locomotive won’t make is around standard T-Trak curves (282 and 315mm) and we needed to scrap all our (read mine as I was the ONLY member that had curves) and build only large radii superelevated curves. I repeatedly ran my 6 axle locomotives on the inside line and I also would make comments like “I sure wish these 6 axle locomotives could make the standard curves…”.
Well that’s okay for T-Trak but … if you’re making more than a NASCAR oval, there are issues. Coming out of a 249 or 216 to a #4 turnout, messy business a majority of the time. The 15* crossings are finicky too unless they are followed by a 282 15* to get them back parallel.
helps alot! thanks for sharing! CheerS :0)
It's same with european models, a little bit shorter, but can do 170 mm. Also some long passenger cars. Looks very silly, but possible. I use only 295, some points 262.
Well, guess they just don't care how tight the curve is! I'm about to invest $1000 in Kato n scale track. Just trying to figure out the curves. I hate not using my endless amount of atlas code 80, but I just want EASY and not fight old tracks. ;)
For my mainline where I want to run long trains I stick to R282 (11inch) curves or more, but for industry areas and yards having some R249 (9.75inch) is fine, and if you run short trains Like in this video then the smaller radius curves are fine.
Whzt brand are the auto racks? Thanks
George subscribed
The auto racks in this video are Micro-Trains Line models.
I am worried 11" radius will be to tight. Well I guess not. Everyones opinion is welcome. Is 11" radius ok in N scale?
I use 11'', only few models can't do it, finescale steam engines. Our special finescale couplers.
Don't care for the hang over with larger locos/cars on smaller radius track. Good video though.