Eric, from South Main Auto Chain, dislikes these types of connectors. He says that the solder on these will crack over time, causing an open circuit. He prefers crimp style. I use these, even on my personal vehicles, and I've never had an issue, even years later.
I've used these for years and never had any issues. Used them on my car and even underground sprinkler lines. Also Eric lives in NY where there's more salt and water on the roads so may not be good for that area.
Gr8 vid as always, been using these things for years and never had a problem with them.......... yet. I too mesh the strands together whether I'm using these connectors or a soldering iron but both ways the strands get a dip into flux first. The solder flows quicker and coverage is better.
Good video, really informative. You will get a better connection if you strip less of the insulation. When I use these I strip only about 1/4" of wire, that way there is less room that the solder has to fill to completely encase the wires. I also don't fan them out, I twist them to keep the strands together and then put them in the connector, this way there's less chance of having a loose strand poke out through the heat shrink when it softens.
I guess it comes down to how much time you have and the space required to pull off heating the solder. Great video showing benefits of waterproofing connections. I prefer using shrink tubing over crimped connectors. I also have used liquid electrical tap for when I forget to put heatshrink tubing on wire before crimping or added waterproofing.
I would be interested to see if dipping the ends in no-clean flux paste would improve the quality of the penetration of solder. Also concentrating the heat more on the center would probably be better. Either heat pencil or dedicated barrel shaped soldering tip.
Thanks for this video. I’ve always been skeptical about these solder connectors. It looks like a definitely game changer for electrical work. Cheers from a Yank in the UK! 🏴🇺🇸 P.S. please bring back more LR Discovery 2 content. 😉
I've never used these but I've always used the heat shrink crimp style. Never had any problems with them and they can be found at Harbor Freight! I do however like these and may give them a try...
Thanks for exposing these connectors via this video. I never knew they existed. Since there 3 methods of putting the wires together, I wonder if an ohm meter could tell the difference between the three and compare it to a crimp connector. It may show no difference and if there is, that would prove which way is best for conductivity.
Ohm meter would simply show continuity and no resistance, best way to test for ability to handle load would probably be to put a load on them and measure the voltage drop across the connection. I doubt that will be a problem either. Only potential problem is I don't know how they will hold up to hot cold cycles super long term, as in many years and many cycles.
The resistance can be measured with a 4-wire milliohmeter which uses a Kelvin bridge, eg the Vici VC480C+ or far more expensive meters.. Since the solder typically does not penetrate all the way through the wire strands, the resistance will be higher than a traditionally soldered connector. But, they work, and are convenient. They are probably good enough for Boeing. 😂
I used to use these solder seal connectors and on some minor things that I can easily get to and fix when/if it fails... I will still use them quick and dirty... but if I want something to stay fixed I use non insulated connectors properly affixed and sealed with marine grade heat shrink... Takes a little longer but you won't have to worry about the connection leaving you screwed...
That was well explained. I like the method of a mechanical connection independent of the solder, that can resist axial tension. Even though they don't have a great mechanical connection, crimp connectors have an excellent track record over decades. For some reason I had the misguided notion that these solder connectors are also crimped, but they are not. It looks like the quality of the solder joint is quite weak compared to a normal solder joint, so I'd be a little concerned about late microcracking from vibration. Anything close to the exhaust manifold will likely experience enough heat to make the connection reflow, so I'd avoid using them there. I've been playing with these a little, but to date I'm not sold. They aren't even faster than crimp connectors. Lately I've been using crimp connectors sold with heat shrink tubing inpregnated with glue.
Man, when you chopped open the connector to reveal the work it had done, I said to myself "that's just as good as a wire nut". If you're keeping the car, spend the time to do it right with a soldering iron and heat shrink.
Used to use these on critical wiring and were often rejected by inspectors. Over time I found a better method. Take the wire and apply liquid flux then heat the wire and apply solder to the wire. Allow the solder to flow off the wire this removes impurities. Try to leave the wire without any large build up of solder. Once done you can apply a small amount of flux. Insert the wires into the crimp. Heat the crimp, You will see the solder flow bonding the wires. You will find you don't have to subject the crimp to long periods of heat that can damage the insulation. P.S. Use only flux and solder made for electronic/electrical work.
Get you a non insulated butt splice connector and crimpers. Then put some normal heatshrink over it to keep the water out. It's stronger than the wire itself. Extra points if you lightly coat the copper with dielectric grease after doing it. This solder splice will crack over time with vibrations in a vehicle. Also if there's any strain on that wire it will come apart.
Oh dear..... you're gonna stir up the hornets nest of CZcams experts. Nothing gets em going faster than soldering and crimping! Maybe welding is a close second.
I’ve been making cables for over 10 years and personally using crimps or soldier them properly and protect them. These are not a good idea for a place that gets hot like an Engine Bay
why is there never any video on how to Splice a very big wire with the tinny wire like 8 awg to a 16 awg or 12 awgi need to do this with a 8awg to a 16 awg or 12 awg and now that i see u video the way i was thinking of how to do it may not be the best way but it give me a idea on how i could do it but i would like to know the best way to do this for the best results going to be using 12v for the 2 wires of 8 and 16 ir 8 and 12 awg
I feel like that is not enough solder for the wire gauge it's made for! Beautiful seal and all, but if you're soldering a 12 gauge wire, there's a reason it is that size. Second point is that: if the spot is tight enough where you struggle to make a solder joint, you'll also struggle with the heat gun. I was hoping these would impress me more but I'm kind of disappointed. Maybe for very specific jobs.
Too bad these connectors don't include crimping on ends to give more tensile strength and resistance from pulling apart. A blend of crimp & solder would be ideal imo. Thanks for detailed explanation of these connectors. They have their place when needed.
Watch out with o2 sensors. These sensors "pumps" reference air thru wire. If you solder them, flux - thanks to capillary action - can seal wire, and sensor will stop work. Also o2 sensor wires are made of stainless steel, so soldering with tin will not work. I prefer soldering, but in this case, crimping is the only way.
Since RaW is now in the car auction buying business, why doesn't he act as a broker for his viewers who select the vehicle they're interested in and he could bid it remotely as needed after the buyer has deposited the maximum bid payment including commission into an escrow account?
No you almost got it, you need to heat the solder until it completely melts. Also do not use that single point tip on the heat gun, is possible to use that tip but you need something to encompass heating all of it simultaneously that would help melt it. You can melt the shrink wrap but it can take the Heat.
Always love your videos and info, but I can't give you a thumbs on this one. Sorry, not here to troll you. Just trying to give a PSA, speaking from years of experience soldering and having given these a try. They are a good concept, but don't get great end results. I actually had a harder time trying to use these without a wire holder than traditional soldering. I had the right tools and technique for the job as well. They ended up looking like your joints, very poor penetration. That's bad for multiple reasons not just carrying current. Solder is an electrical and mechanical bond, so poor solder penetration is compromising both of those. I did the best thing anyone can do with these and threw them in the garbage. Please don't use these
I do not recommend these. They are made of a cheap material and all different heating methods can’t get the soder to fully melt before it starts melting the plastic.
Solder Seal Connector Kit: amzn.to/3vxM5X3
Eric, from South Main Auto Chain, dislikes these types of connectors. He says that the solder on these will crack over time, causing an open circuit. He prefers crimp style. I use these, even on my personal vehicles, and I've never had an issue, even years later.
Crimp connectors have been the OEM method of repair for years
It's not a chain, dude
I've used these for years and never had any issues. Used them on my car and even underground sprinkler lines.
Also Eric lives in NY where there's more salt and water on the roads so may not be good for that area.
So some wanker does it different way... Who cares
@@aygwm Dont know about that. At least 5 years ago dealers dont want you to use them. Now they want soldered.
Super informative, always been doubtful of those connectors so it's reassuring seeing a trustworthy face using them 👍🏽
here when the title’s still “Ho h”
thanks for dropping the knowledge for us today RnW :)
Gr8 vid as always, been using these things for years and never had a problem with them.......... yet. I too mesh the strands together whether I'm using these connectors or a soldering iron but both ways the strands get a dip into flux first. The solder flows quicker and coverage is better.
If you add liquid solder flux to the stripped ends you will get better solder wetting of the joint.
Yep
I was thinking the exact same thing for sealing with a second tube. You covered it all!
Good video, really informative.
You will get a better connection if you strip less of the insulation. When I use these I strip only about 1/4" of wire, that way there is less room that the solder has to fill to completely encase the wires. I also don't fan them out, I twist them to keep the strands together and then put them in the connector, this way there's less chance of having a loose strand poke out through the heat shrink when it softens.
I guess it comes down to how much time you have and the space required to pull off heating the solder. Great video showing benefits of waterproofing connections. I prefer using shrink tubing over crimped connectors. I also have used liquid electrical tap for when I forget to put heatshrink tubing on wire before crimping or added waterproofing.
I would be interested to see if dipping the ends in no-clean flux paste would improve the quality of the penetration of solder. Also concentrating the heat more on the center would probably be better. Either heat pencil or dedicated barrel shaped soldering tip.
Been using these on tractor trailers for years so far so good 👍
Nice video. At the end of the day with thicker gauged wires crimping and shielding with heat shrink with some protective wire loom is king.
Thanks for this video. I’ve always been skeptical about these solder connectors. It looks like a definitely game changer for electrical work. Cheers from a Yank in the UK! 🏴🇺🇸
P.S. please bring back more LR Discovery 2 content. 😉
Thank you your ratchetness! How about one on crimp connectors if you have time. I love my crimp connector.
I've never used these but I've always used the heat shrink crimp style. Never had any problems with them and they can be found at Harbor Freight! I do however like these and may give them a try...
Thanks for exposing these connectors via this video. I never knew they existed. Since there 3 methods of putting the wires together, I wonder if an ohm meter could tell the difference between the three and compare it to a crimp connector. It may show no difference and if there is, that would prove which way is best for conductivity.
Ohm meter would simply show continuity and no resistance, best way to test for ability to handle load would probably be to put a load on them and measure the voltage drop across the connection. I doubt that will be a problem either. Only potential problem is I don't know how they will hold up to hot cold cycles super long term, as in many years and many cycles.
The resistance can be measured with a 4-wire milliohmeter which uses a Kelvin bridge, eg the Vici VC480C+ or far more expensive meters.. Since the solder typically does not penetrate all the way through the wire strands, the resistance will be higher than a traditionally soldered connector. But, they work, and are convenient. They are probably good enough for Boeing. 😂
The blue rings are adhesive. But, you can always add shrink tubing over it for extra protection.
This was great info thank you be safe my friend!
I used to use these solder seal connectors and on some minor things that I can easily get to and fix when/if it fails... I will still use them quick and dirty...
but if I want something to stay fixed I use non insulated connectors properly affixed and sealed with marine grade heat shrink... Takes a little longer but you won't have to worry about the connection leaving you screwed...
That was well explained. I like the method of a mechanical connection independent of the solder, that can resist axial tension. Even though they don't have a great mechanical connection, crimp connectors have an excellent track record over decades. For some reason I had the misguided notion that these solder connectors are also crimped, but they are not. It looks like the quality of the solder joint is quite weak compared to a normal solder joint, so I'd be a little concerned about late microcracking from vibration. Anything close to the exhaust manifold will likely experience enough heat to make the connection reflow, so I'd avoid using them there. I've been playing with these a little, but to date I'm not sold. They aren't even faster than crimp connectors. Lately I've been using crimp connectors sold with heat shrink tubing inpregnated with glue.
These can withstand quite a bit of axial tension. crimp with heat shrink is good too.
At 8:39, great idea. Just remember to slip the heat-shrink tubing on one of the wires before you use the solder-less connectors. 😉
I'm early .just bought these. Gonna try a hairdryer. Can you use on the kitchen cooker? Tx
Not trying to be a backseat solderer but have you ever added tinning flux?
Very useful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Never new about this product. Sold on it though. Thank you.
What about adding a little flux to the wires for better penetration? Or would that just cause a mess?
Double up great idea my man
Very good information for a very important topic. 👌
PRODIGY Ratchets and Wrenches
Thanks 👍
🎶 🎵 👌
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
They should add crimp ends to these and they'd be better. I usuallt just use some crimp butt connectors on interior stuff
I use those They are awesome
Man, when you chopped open the connector to reveal the work it had done, I said to myself "that's just as good as a wire nut". If you're keeping the car, spend the time to do it right with a soldering iron and heat shrink.
I sometimes add an extra layer of regular heatshrink on top of these since they seem to thin out plenty when heated.
Great informative video!
Try a liquid or paste flux with those connectors.
Worked great for me
Used to use these on critical wiring and were often rejected by inspectors. Over time I found a better method. Take the wire and apply liquid flux then heat the wire and apply solder to the wire. Allow the solder to flow off the wire this removes impurities. Try to leave the wire without any large build up of solder. Once done you can apply a small amount of flux. Insert the wires into the crimp. Heat the crimp, You will see the solder flow bonding the wires. You will find you don't have to subject the crimp to long periods of heat that can damage the insulation. P.S. Use only flux and solder made for electronic/electrical work.
Would these connectors and this method be suitable for wiring up a brake controller?
I do believe those are made for pre tinned wire like what's found in marine and aviation wire, which work extremely well giving full solder wicking.
Feliz año man! Super useful info.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks.
Get you a non insulated butt splice connector and crimpers. Then put some normal heatshrink over it to keep the water out. It's stronger than the wire itself. Extra points if you lightly coat the copper with dielectric grease after doing it. This solder splice will crack over time with vibrations in a vehicle. Also if there's any strain on that wire it will come apart.
Be nice to see a underwater test
Perhaps a bit of solder paste or liquid rosin flux on the wires would get more solder flow and better (safer) amp allowance.
Oh dear..... you're gonna stir up the hornets nest of CZcams experts. Nothing gets em going faster than soldering and crimping! Maybe welding is a close second.
Thanks 🙏
Can we use a lighter instead?
might start to melt your lighter on a big piece, but if you what your doing a little bit yeah. I use a torch
If you put some rosin on the Connection ends your solder would penetrate alot more through the wires.
I dont know cabron an o2 sensor can carry a good amount of amperage to the heater circuit of the sensor yes?
Will it work with a lighter?
I’ve been making cables for over 10 years and personally using crimps or soldier them properly and protect them. These are not a good idea for a place that gets hot like an Engine Bay
Why? An engine bay does not get hot enough to melt solder.
@@Milpower it does to melt low melt solder, which should only be used to remove normal solder while using a wick.
why is there never any video on how to Splice a very big wire with the tinny wire like 8 awg to a 16 awg or 12 awgi need to do this with a 8awg to a 16 awg or 12 awg and now that i see u video the way i was thinking of how to do it may not be the best way but it give me a idea on how i could do it but i would like to know the best way to do this for the best results going to be using 12v for the 2 wires of 8 and 16 ir 8 and 12 awg
Make this FAR better by dipping each wire strand into flux.
Most, esp. DYI people, will probably use flame.
Ho h Ho h Ho h how's it going DIYers!
What if it’s like 3 wires and your wiring in some new headlights with DRLs
"Splice in 15 seconds?! This video is almost 10 minutes long. I'm SUPER DUPER ARGRY RAWRRRR" every CZcams comment every
Are we gonna talk about how the title of the video was “Ho h” for a hot minute?
haha it was an honest mistake
I feel like that is not enough solder for the wire gauge it's made for! Beautiful seal and all, but if you're soldering a 12 gauge wire, there's a reason it is that size. Second point is that: if the spot is tight enough where you struggle to make a solder joint, you'll also struggle with the heat gun. I was hoping these would impress me more but I'm kind of disappointed. Maybe for very specific jobs.
Too bad these connectors don't include crimping on ends to give more tensile strength and resistance from pulling apart. A blend of crimp & solder would be ideal imo. Thanks for detailed explanation of these connectors. They have their place when needed.
Link for connectors is missing.
Watch out with o2 sensors. These sensors "pumps" reference air thru wire. If you solder them, flux - thanks to capillary action - can seal wire, and sensor will stop work. Also o2 sensor wires are made of stainless steel, so soldering with tin will not work. I prefer soldering, but in this case, crimping is the only way.
Thank you good info.
Mexican Norm McDonald
Yea they’re awesome especially when you pay for the package you have and get a tiny ass four compartment box with a quarter of what’s advertised 😑
Sole der not sodder!
Since RaW is now in the car auction buying business, why doesn't he act as a broker for his viewers who select the vehicle they're interested in and he could bid it remotely as needed after the buyer has deposited the maximum bid payment including commission into an escrow account?
ho h
No you almost got it, you need to heat the solder until it completely melts. Also do not use that single point tip on the heat gun, is possible to use that tip but you need something to encompass heating all of it simultaneously that would help melt it. You can melt the shrink wrap but it can take the Heat.
HoH SiS
ho ho ho
rather use crimps
Always love your videos and info, but I can't give you a thumbs on this one. Sorry, not here to troll you. Just trying to give a PSA, speaking from years of experience soldering and having given these a try. They are a good concept, but don't get great end results. I actually had a harder time trying to use these without a wire holder than traditional soldering. I had the right tools and technique for the job as well. They ended up looking like your joints, very poor penetration. That's bad for multiple reasons not just carrying current. Solder is an electrical and mechanical bond, so poor solder penetration is compromising both of those. I did the best thing anyone can do with these and threw them in the garbage. Please don't use these
I do not recommend these. They are made of a cheap material and all different heating methods can’t get the soder to fully melt before it starts melting the plastic.
No matter how you do it or what you use, it will never be good enough for CZcams.😂
Ho h