Great to the point explanation of troubleshooting these issues with regulators. Clear and precise. So glad you kept your X on hold for this video…Subscribed!
Flew my 67 airplane today and by end of flight, my battery was dead! I always have cleaned the wire connection points but never the relay points. After watching your video, I'm sure this is my problem. Thanks for the video!
I'm a dealer tech, currently working on a 1954 cadillac that won't charge after getting a new regulator and generator re build. Your tip to set the polarity on the regulator got it charging, I had no idea that was a thing, thank you.
You're very welcome! Old technology, but it's like flashing a new computer to a modern vehicle to get the lines of communication going, only you're just pairing the charging system here. You have to excite the Regulator so that it knows it's time to do its job. I'm glad the video helped! Cheers! Zip~
@@guardinoinc.7490 lmao humble yourself. They havnt taught this technology in school for decades. I doubt ill ever have the chance to work on something like this ever again. I guarantee theres a lot of stuff i fix that would make your head spin. Or who knows, maybe you are the one person in the world that knows everything.
@@stanlarose2317 don’t be offended Stan .. there’s more money in working on newer technology/cars that there is on older. Just due to amount of newer vehicles out there. But in basic autoshop classes they do touch on the foundations of generators and charging systems
An excellent video. I hadn't used my Chevy for three months and the generator light was staying on. I cleaned the points in the regulator. It all works again.
Just purchased a Ferguson TE20 tractor and the battery is hooked up neg ground when it's supposed to be pos. gnd. and it has battery charging issues, this has video helped me in troubleshooting. I'm going to check the field flashing videos also because it's been since the early 70's since I have done that. Thanks for the video.
Thanks very helpful. I want to add a few details. Start by running machine then pull off negative terminal. If it stalls it’s regulator or generator. You can try this cleaning but don’t get your hopes up. It can look pristine and be dead. These points are very sensitive unlike distributor. Requires a spoon or ruffled file. 800 grit didn’t work for me. Part is $25 EBay. Test generator by activating from battery.
Excellent Video, very informative, I will do this on my old 1958 FORD I put a new voltage regulator, and a new generator, back in 2005, n now it needs some tlc because it's now not charging, so I'll do this before I buy a new regulator and a new generator, thank you for your help,👌✌️👍.
found this video to late, I bought a new regulator but after taking off my old one the video explained exactly what I needed to do, im more of a visual learner I read only about cleaning the points but couldn't comprehend it due to this being all new to me , thanks, hopefully after following your steps I have a back up.
+FelixFelixB I hope that it's just the points contacts as well! Although you found the video after the fact, you did find it. Thanks for stopping by! Cheers!! Zip~
I am pretty smart..hands on...you are one smart cookie and I hope you continue teaching..your methods are very well explained, I had a great time sipping vodka and getting a lesson on regulators..yes at 60 I am still learning. THANK YOU
Soil. I'm humbled by your comment and compliment to my style of helping to educate through the wonders of the Internet. I had great teachers and I like to think it's their style and form of educating that I've adopted. Thank you Soil! Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for this video. My old Honda CB550 wasn't charging and I still have the old charging system wired up. I followed the steps of sanding the terminals on the regulator but I didn't re-polarize the terminals and it started charging again. Before the lights used to dim and when I revved the rpms the light would get brighter. It does that again now and charges at around 14.2 vDC which is much better than before. It wouldn't hardly charge when at high rpm.
Your video was very helpful I'm changing the the voltage regulator on a Toyota Camry and I needed to know how to polarize it. Thanks for your input sir very helpful.
lol...Yep....I'm still friends with my two X's and it's hard for their current spouses to understand how that's possible. I simply tell them, we divorced because we weren't a compatible couple, not because we weren't friends. Cheers!! Glad you enjoyed that lol. Zip~
My Scout has one of these big box type of guys. Maybe not the exact same thing but it's an air gap regulator(?). I wasn't charging one day and I gave it a bit of a knock with my knuckle and it started charging again. It's been fine since but I'm going to take it out and see if I can do something similar to what you've done. Ya know, the solid state stuff is supposed to be more reliable, but once it goes, it's done unless you're an electronics wizard and you *have* to fix it. These guys, if it goes, you have a decent chance to get it working again. I've been stuck in the woods with no sandpaper but I managed to get just enough crud off the points to get it home with a matchbook striker.
Matchbook Striker!! Now THAT is the epitome of the term "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"!! Bravo on that one....learned something new! I can't count how many I've brought back to life with this simple little trick. Sure does save the ole wallet! Cheers my good Friend! Zip~
Couldn't find any info like you just gave anywhere! Hopefully this helps me get my Piaggio Vespacar P2 going again, it's also got a starter/generator and a very similar regulator :D Thanks for making this video!
unless you are running your tractor for more than a few hours per day you dont need a current limit circuit. When these tractors were used back in the 1960s and guys were driving them 5 hours per day you had to limit the battery charge. Today most users are using their tractor once per week or less. The last thing you have to worry about is over charging your battery. A simple bridge rectifier is all you need.
That’s a really good ‘point’ hardly any vintage machine owner will use it like the first owner did when it was new Mine has 2 coils, one with a moving contact between 2 others that has just a few turns of copper wire in the coil and another with just 2 contacts and a fully wound coil. I wonder which one is the current limit circuit?
What I am looking for is an explanation upon how it works. One set of contacts break (cutoff) the connection for the field? the other two will regulate the voltage and one for the current. Which coil function starts off closed; for the field windings? On our old tractor, the regulator does not work the starter. The starter has it's own solenoid and will start directly with the key, from a charged battery. (Massey Ferguson, English made.) The regular just controls the generator and so I was interested in getting the regulator to function again. I've cleaned up the generator and found it in fine condition, just oil fumes had collected and so was mucky, but from that, it had no wear on the armature, nor on the brushes as they were seized from wearing along with the commutator. Did not realise about the shocking to polarise the coil's iron core permanently- so to speak, as the contact/ coil system don't do anything atm.
Thanks very nicely explains If the marking on the wire connecting terminal like Bat field Arm is also explains The confusion of right wire on The right terminal doubt is clear.
Correct Andrew. I typically shoot for a max of 14.2 to allow for +/- .3 volts, but from the factory, they're set to 14.4v. Thanks for stopping by and for the information! Cheers! Zip~
I used limilar ones on the 1970ies ford Corrina/angler/escort/ and triumph so many old British car Austin Morris /Cambridge westminster.we used to bend them to adjust voltage flow
Some are fixed and some have tuning screws to increase or decrease spring tension. The former are a bit trickier to get dialed in, but once there, they'll last and last. Thanks again for stopping by Rohan! Zip~
My book gives the gap for top and bottom of both voltage and ampree coils from what I see here suppose to make contact no wonder mine does not charge, that and testing all these heavey windings could be challenging. One thing for sure if all three contacts are closed it should charge maximum.
the good part of voltage regulaters is you can toss them in the trash can and go with alternator i wire easy hook up i did this to my m37 it gives 28 volts dc for my 24 volt system
Replaced the alt on my 69 Chevy due to it not charging. Now it over charging. So I replaced the regulator, same problem. It goes from 12v-16.6, and everywhere between while running, and the alt gets HOT. I'm curious if I got a bad "new" alternator I think converting to a GM 1 wire alternator is in my trucks near future.
With everything being made in China now days I'd lean towards a defective alternator. Whatever you purchase as a replacement, I always suggest getting a Lifetime Warranty. Zip~
Thank you for editing your initial comment Ken. To haste is to fall short. In other words....Yes, I could have spent less time explaining the intricacies, but that would leave you or someone else without that crucial piece of information. Cheers! Zip~
This has been a helpfuly video for me considering this is my first go with this old of equipment, one questing i do have pertains to what looks like a plastic insulator on the back of the regulator under all the riveted areas, if its cracked will that cause issues
I have a HB112 that was sitting for 10 years. I got it started but the regulator smokes. I cleaned the three points and polarized it per this great video but it still smokes. Also, the engine does not shut off when I turn off the ignition switch. Any ideas?
What did he ADJUST? He sanded the points.... There wasn't any indication of an adjustment... What if you don't have 12-14.4 volts? What if it's too high, like 16v. What if it's 10.2 v? What temp should the car be and what temp was it in the place he was working in? What was the idle speed set at to get that 12-14.4 volts. More unanswered question than info given in the video. It's the closest I can come to my search and it's not even an AMERCAN vehicle...
Frustrated much Inside looking out? Ease up there a sec and listen. I (the "He" you referred to) will not give information out to the general public that must be done under controlled situations, that can result in personal injury or that can damage equipment. Which is WHY I didn't do any adjusting, explain idle speed function, at speed function, over or under voltage etc. I'm a responsible and conscientious individual who refuses to put potentially dangerous content in my videos. Lastly, These regulators are Delco Remy...aka USA MADE!! These particular regulators are for Farm Tractors and Garden Tractors (which translates to a lower amperage unit than is used in an automobile), which are also ALL Made in the USA. So, before you go off on the videographer because you're frustrated, you might think first about why I didn't include the information you so desperately need. Just a little FYI...you CAN Buy a NEW Regulator, properly set for cut in and cut out voltage at the right engine speed and mated to your alternator or Starter Generator at your local NAPA and save your self the aggravation all together. 9/10ths of these regulators just need the contacts cleaned in order to restore them to operating condition with no adjustments needed. If you've already messed with the adjustments, my suggestion is, go to a reputable electrical systems analyst and have them hook it up to their correct equipment to properly and safely set the regulators parameters to your specific needs. Otherwise, you risk more damage than is already evident. Zip~
Hello, i have a 56 buick roadmaster. Car was sitting down for almost 20 years. Have a problem finally car is running but my battery keeps draining. If i drive my car runs fine but next day battery is dead. I clean my voltage regulator like you said, i follow all steps exactly like you said. I run my car and voltage regulator read on my multimeter 13.5 and battery above 12. Next day after work my battery was 10.55 and voltage regulator was 10.11 and my car start it but my battery numbers came down to 9.10 and voltage regulator went up to 11.20. I remove negative from my batter while was on and my car turn off. Should i buy a voltage regulator or my generator. Please need help. Thanks and great video especially how you explain step by step.
The problem sounds more like what's called a parasitic draw. Google the problem, "draining battery" or "Parasitic Draw" and you'll find some very good articles and videos on how to check and trace this issue. Something else on the car is causing the battery to drain while not in use. It appears your generator/alternator and regulator are doing their job. Keep me posted on your progress Ab. Zip~
I do have a question, the car goes off? An old generator system should continue to run even with the battery removed if the generator is working. New cars since the 70's need the alternator in the "loop" but not a 56 Buick. The generator should be putting out at least 12. something volts to show it is working and able to over power the battery and charge it. Should be able to find CZcams ways to check generator and or regulator. But if you are getting voltage then you have a different problem.If electricity is going to ground somewhere you have a short. You sure there isn't a clock, or light or something on drawing down the battery. It is pretty big power loss if you see that kind of loss overnight. You sure the battery is OK. Did you do a hydrometer test? Start at the battery make sure all the cells show good, no dead cells. Then turn everything off including the key see if there is continuity across the two terminals of the battery. or even a spark when try to put them back on their terminals. You may need to remove the BATT wire from the battery or regulator to not have this energize the regulator. If you do get continuity or a spark you have to figure out what is doing it. With a full battery take one fuse out of the fuse box at a time. Look for continuity or that pesky spark. Take a picture first just in case you get lost. Keep looking for that light or clock or something taking the power out of the battery. If you run out of fuses you are really in trouble. Good luck
Very Good Video. Got a simple question, are ALL 12 Volt Reguators Interchangable? One off a Briggs to one off a Techumse? etc. or is there a difference.??? If so , what is the Difference??
There are differences MrDan. It's within the poles and how they deliver and bypass the charging circuits. It's also dependent on the alternator or generator that is in need of any given charging system. Your defense is identifying the alternator or generator type and its required regulator. This can be done in a number of ways, but the most direct and strait forward is identifying the alternator or generator being used via model numbers. Then, do an internet search for that alternator or generator along with regulator in the search and you will be directed to comparable regulators. I've got 3 different starter/generator types and each requires its own specifically configured regulator to work properly. I hope this helps and good luck! Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thank You, Glad I asked. I have a a MF 10 tractor with a 10 hp Tecumseh, Genny Starter on it and the Regulator is bad, I have one from a Cub Cadet with a Genny Starter and thought all the Genny Starter ones would be the same ? Maybe Not??
Question regarding these regulators. I bought a spare one just to have on hand. They are both virtually identical. The old one has 3 resistors on the back. The spare has only 2. Are they interchangeable? Maybe a superseded part? Or is this just the wrong one? It's for a 1976 XLH Sportster.
I would confirm compatibility with your local Harley Dealer's Parts department to make sure. Regulators can be picky as well as Stater's and Alternator's. Some don't play well together. Zip~
@@chrisrestifo7010 Exactly Chris. Which is why when in doubt, ask the professionals who are familiar with your Sportster and know what parts work and what ones will sizzle the whole system.
It is my understanding that you can only polarize a magnet. The magnet is in the generator. Therefore I believe what you are polarizing is the magnet in the generator and not anything in the regulator.
Hi Charles. You bring up a good point. The poles in the regulator are actually Electro Magnets and they're energized by the Generator. In order to regulate the charge/discharge, the poles open and close under two loads. Magnetic resistance and spring tension that's preset at the factory to approximately 14.4 volts DC, where as, when the battery is fully charged, the regulator closes the charge loop through one magnetically charged pole, preventing overcharging of the battery and other components. Cheers! Zip~
I should also add, there are no magnets in the Starter/Generator. All the fields are electrically generated through the frame mounted windings and the Armature via the brushes and commutator. Zip~
Question: I have a 1950 Chrysler Imperial which I I have to polarize the voltage regulator because It has a generator. But, Do I have to do the same with my 70 Chevy Impala Voltage Regulator If it runs off a Alternator.?.
Hi Zippo, Kip here from PA. What causes the ammeter needle to dance back and forth? Thanks for the help with the head for my "Shoblower". Another great video
Hi Kip, once your battery is fully charged, the Regulator shuts off power going to the battery. But, it does this in a sort of "Float" mode where it kicks in and out of charge rapidly. This causes the Ammeter to jump. There is nothing wrong with your charging system. It's completely normal. If you swapped out the Ammeter for a Voltmeter, you wouldn't see any needle dancing as it reacts much slower than an Ammeter because it's wired differently. Where the Ammeter is a pass through (in line) connection, the Voltmeter is not connected via pass through (in line). It is connected to - and + independently where the Ammeter is connected to + and+. Cheers! Zip~
Question I have a allis chalmers Hd6g high lift I took the generator off and cleaned all the inside out (caked with mud) and put all back together the brushes are making contact with commutator, I then cleaned points on regulator, but when I put voltmeter on generator and got a negative reading from battery terminal on generator. Would polarizing the generator wrong make it draw instead of charging?
does this have to be polarized everytime i swap out batterys?have a regulator that reads high and wondering if previous owner did not do this step.let me know please?thanks for your time.
Problem I have with my 12v system is that it's fine in park when the idle is higher, but in drive the voltage is borderline and the charge light comes on and runs like crap. It's never killed a battery and it'll always start the next day no problem. But let's say I take it for a ride, when I get it home the idle goes low and the charge light comes on. So I end up having to increase my idle just to make sure it doesn't give me trouble while in drive, but increasing your idle for that reason can lead to other issues. The contacts in my regulator were actually very clean. Does that sound like a polarizing issue or just a dirty/worn generator? I do take the battery out in the Winters. I know generators don't charge at low idle, but idle speed in drive in the handbook is 500 RPM and the light comes on even trying to set it at 650 RPM.
Hey ZippoVarga , Every time I have to touch the battery and generator posts on the regulator, I pop the fuse in the tractor. Basically it's inline with the battery to regulator and charge indicator gauge.. Is the probably supposed to happen? And or I don't need that fused?
I went through your procedures. Regulator looks newer to me. Very clean. I polarized it again and did get a spark this time. I still discharge so I'm off to the gennie next. Buts thanks again!
Have a sears SS15 tractor with the starter generator setup. Had the generator rebuilt because I could feel the the bearing being bad when I changed out the belt. I Put everything back together started it but the volts stay at 12v unless I go above idle and then the generator charges above that. Got thinking maybe Voltage Regulator went bad from moving the wires around. But with the engine off I was checking everything over and I touch the case of the generator and it was hot. Funny thing the case was hot and the rear cover plate. BUT the front plate and armature shaft and nut was ok just warm and I had ran the engine for 45 minutes testing everything out. Bad rebuilt on the generator? Or could it be the regulator? My rebuild of the engine came out good but the generator... SOS And I have check and recheck the waring. I took a lot of pictures before taking the wires off. Still?
The commutator and brushes are at the tail cap, so that end of the S/G will get warmer, but it shouldn't be HOT to the touch. I would turn my attention to the Regulator and make sure you're not charging more than 14.4 volts to the battery. You can check this by testing just the voltage at the battery with the engine running. If it's over charging, the regulator needs attention and should be replaced or adjusted by a professional. If that checks out ok, then I would suspect that the tail cap bearing/bushing may be out of specification. Check the tail cap and frame near the tail cap. If the tail cap gets hot first, then I would venture the bearing/bushing is bad. Zip~
got an old 7016 and running fine until recently. Won't start, no spark. Can't find problem. Figure it's neutral safety or magneto? Possibly something else?
On my old Suburban lawntractor I get 16 volts output from my starter/generator at idle. What should I check to get the voltage back down to 13-14 volts so it doesn't overcharge?
Is that at the Regulator? If so, source a local automotive electrical repair shop to properly set it. Shouldn't cost you much, and although the battery can handle 16V, it really should be reset to 14.4V cut off. Cheers! Zip~
16 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running after afew minutes run time, with the brand new aftermarket regulator the motor repair shop sold the previous owner of the tractor, along with the rebuilt starter/generator. I disconnected the F wire at the starter/generator and while running the battery was at 13.2 volts so it is the regulator. I put my old rusty Delco regulator back on it and it gives me 15.5 volts at the battery terminals so I'll run that one for now. I'll have to call the shop that rebuilt the starter/generator and see if they can set the regulator. Thanks
looking through the comments and looking for something on a voltage regulator over charging, you don't have anything on it? plus someone in comments mentioned that you need to polarize it when you change batteries, is that correct? appreciate a cure. i have a regulator ordered and would rather not have had to buy it, thank you
To be honest, your regulator either has a bad pole or it's way out of adjustment and needs to be calibrated. This should only be done by a qualified technician. If one isn't available to you, then I suggest replacing your faulty unit. I know it sucks, but trying to make any adjustments yourself can result in the battery blowing up on you due to excessive voltage. Sorry I don't have better news. Zip~
Hey buddy I have a 1941 Chevy special deluxe and I did a boo boo and touched my screw driver to starter positive and the ground on fire wall and I lost all power no power on the dash or lights the fuse in-line to lights is not blown. Have no power to start as well battery is good. Any help trying to get power back up would be appreciated ahead of time.
?4U - The resistor underneath I have a regulator that has a broken one, is it possible i could replace/solder or otherwise repair it, if so with what? (by that I mean could I get a axial-lead resistor to replace it, if so at what OHM). If not, are there any other ways/type replacements I could buy.
Great to the point explanation of troubleshooting these issues with regulators. Clear and precise. So glad you kept your X on hold for this video…Subscribed!
Flew my 67 airplane today and by end of flight, my battery was dead! I always have cleaned the wire connection points but never the relay points. After watching your video, I'm sure this is my problem. Thanks for the video!
I hope this resolves your issue!! Zip~
Here I am 6 years after this posting and have learned about my 1971 Cub Cadet regulator. Thank you, and Merry Christmas from South Carolina!
You're very welcome David! Merry Christmas! Zip~
working old cars is what i love and this is great information,,thanks
You bet
I'm a dealer tech, currently working on a 1954 cadillac that won't charge after getting a new regulator and generator re build. Your tip to set the polarity on the regulator got it charging, I had no idea that was a thing, thank you.
You're very welcome! Old technology, but it's like flashing a new computer to a modern vehicle to get the lines of communication going, only you're just pairing the charging system here. You have to excite the Regulator so that it knows it's time to do its job. I'm glad the video helped! Cheers! Zip~
You work at a dealership and don’t know the basics…ahhh no surprise
@@guardinoinc.7490 lmao humble yourself. They havnt taught this technology in school for decades. I doubt ill ever have the chance to work on something like this ever again. I guarantee theres a lot of stuff i fix that would make your head spin. Or who knows, maybe you are the one person in the world that knows everything.
@@stanlarose2317 don’t be offended Stan .. there’s more money in working on newer technology/cars that there is on older. Just due to amount of newer vehicles out there. But in basic autoshop classes they do touch on the foundations of generators and charging systems
An excellent video. I hadn't used my Chevy for three months and the generator light was staying on. I cleaned the points in the regulator. It all works again.
tried it, it works, sorted the charging on my ironhead, clear simple instruction, many thanks
Just purchased a Ferguson TE20 tractor and the battery is hooked up neg ground when it's supposed to be pos. gnd. and it has battery charging issues, this has video helped me in troubleshooting. I'm going to check the field flashing videos also because it's been since the early 70's since I have done that.
Thanks for the video.
This was exactly what my 1958 Lincoln Premiere needed! Thanks!
Great video, installed new regulator wouldn’t charge polarized then worked great thank you
Thanks very helpful. I want to add a few details. Start by running machine then pull off negative terminal. If it stalls it’s regulator or generator. You can try this cleaning but don’t get your hopes up. It can look pristine and be dead. These points are very sensitive unlike distributor. Requires a spoon or ruffled file. 800 grit didn’t work for me. Part is $25 EBay. Test generator by activating from battery.
Excellent Video, very informative, I will do this on my old 1958 FORD I put a new voltage regulator, and a new generator, back in 2005, n now it needs some tlc because it's now not charging, so I'll do this before I buy a new regulator and a new generator, thank you for your help,👌✌️👍.
found this video to late, I bought a new regulator but after taking off my old one the video explained exactly what I needed to do, im more of a visual learner I read only about cleaning the points but couldn't comprehend it due to this being all new to me , thanks, hopefully after following your steps I have a back up.
+FelixFelixB I hope that it's just the points contacts as well! Although you found the video after the fact, you did find it. Thanks for stopping by! Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks to this video I was able to get my 1969 MTD 860 charging again.
I am pretty smart..hands on...you are one smart cookie and I hope you continue teaching..your methods are very well explained, I had a great time sipping vodka and getting a lesson on regulators..yes at 60 I am still learning. THANK YOU
Soil. I'm humbled by your comment and compliment to my style of helping to educate through the wonders of the Internet. I had great teachers and I like to think it's their style and form of educating that I've adopted. Thank you Soil! Cheers! Zip~
You explain these things very clearly.
Like your work. I'm currently put one of these regulators on my Harley. Your were a big help thank you. Nice work
You bet John! Good luck! Zip~
Thankyou Zippo for your info and instilled confidence.
Great video. Very well done and good for novices like me.... and my 1950 Hudson. We both thank you.
I hope it gets you and your Hudson all Charged Up!! Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for this video. My old Honda CB550 wasn't charging and I still have the old charging system wired up. I followed the steps of sanding the terminals on the regulator but I didn't re-polarize the terminals and it started charging again. Before the lights used to dim and when I revved the rpms the light would get brighter. It does that again now and charges at around 14.2 vDC which is much better than before. It wouldn't hardly charge when at high rpm.
The general operation of a Regulator is the same across the board for the most part. I'm glad you got the old CB550 charging again! Cheers! Zip~
Thank you my bike wasn't charging your video was a great help followed your instructions problem cured.
Great to hear!
Your video was very helpful I'm changing the the voltage regulator on a Toyota Camry and I needed to know how to polarize it. Thanks for your input sir very helpful.
Awesome 👍 I'll definitely keep this in mind when I start working on some winter projects. Thanks for sharing the info and detailed video, great work!
thank you for your videos iam just getting into old tractors and your videos have been very helpful
That's why I post them Abe. Glad they're coming in handy! Zip~
"First ex wife chatting on phone, she's gonna have to wait a minute". Pure gold.
lol...Yep....I'm still friends with my two X's and it's hard for their current spouses to understand how that's possible. I simply tell them, we divorced because we weren't a compatible couple, not because we weren't friends. Cheers!! Glad you enjoyed that lol. Zip~
Can't Thank you enough for your very helpful and informative videos. They have saved me many times working on the old Allis. :D
That's awesome to hear TIG Man!! That's the whole reason why I do them. Helping my fellow collectors and tinkerers! Cheers! Zip~
You videos have been an inspiration to many people . keep it up Bro .
Contact breaker points , haven't herd those old familiar words in decades
We're a dying breed, that's for sure. This old technology just works and is easy to maintain. Cheers Rohan! Thanks for stopping by! Zip~
My Scout has one of these big box type of guys. Maybe not the exact same thing but it's an air gap regulator(?). I wasn't charging one day and I gave it a bit of a knock with my knuckle and it started charging again. It's been fine since but I'm going to take it out and see if I can do something similar to what you've done. Ya know, the solid state stuff is supposed to be more reliable, but once it goes, it's done unless you're an electronics wizard and you *have* to fix it. These guys, if it goes, you have a decent chance to get it working again. I've been stuck in the woods with no sandpaper but I managed to get just enough crud off the points to get it home with a matchbook striker.
Matchbook Striker!! Now THAT is the epitome of the term "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"!! Bravo on that one....learned something new! I can't count how many I've brought back to life with this simple little trick. Sure does save the ole wallet! Cheers my good Friend! Zip~
You are a smart man like me . Like your videos . I love Simplicity and AC tractors as well .
Couldn't find any info like you just gave anywhere! Hopefully this helps me get my Piaggio Vespacar P2 going again, it's also got a starter/generator and a very similar regulator :D
Thanks for making this video!
unless you are running your tractor for more than a few hours per day you dont need a current limit circuit. When these tractors were used back in the 1960s and guys were driving them 5 hours per day you had to limit the battery charge. Today most users are using their tractor once per week or less. The last thing you have to worry about is over charging your battery. A simple bridge rectifier is all you need.
That’s a really good ‘point’ hardly any vintage machine owner will use it like the first owner did when it was new
Mine has 2 coils, one with a moving contact between 2 others that has just a few turns of copper wire in the coil and another with just 2 contacts and a fully wound coil. I wonder which one is the current limit circuit?
What I am looking for is an explanation upon how it works. One set of contacts break (cutoff) the connection for the field? the other two will regulate the voltage and one for the current. Which coil function starts off closed; for the field windings?
On our old tractor, the regulator does not work the starter. The starter has it's own solenoid and will start directly with the key, from a charged battery. (Massey Ferguson, English made.) The regular just controls the generator and so I was interested in getting the regulator to function again.
I've cleaned up the generator and found it in fine condition, just oil fumes had collected and so was mucky, but from that, it had no wear on the armature, nor on the brushes as they were seized from wearing along with the commutator.
Did not realise about the shocking to polarise the coil's iron core permanently- so to speak, as the contact/ coil system don't do anything atm.
Very helpful. Love your videos! Thanks Zippo!!!
My 1948 Harley Hummer 125 and I THANK YOU!
Thanks very nicely explains
If the marking on the wire connecting terminal like
Bat field Arm is also explains
The confusion of right wire on
The right terminal doubt is clear.
Thanks for the help Zippo. Glad you made this video.
You bet Sir Pipe!!
A sign of a good full life, "That's my second ex wife." Love it! Thanks for the video.
By the way ,thanks for the great expanitory video on voltage regulator troubleshooting.
Thanks it makes sense to me can't wait to try it!
typically 14.5 vdc is good charge. once you start reaching 15vdc you are overcharging and over heating the battery.
Correct Andrew. I typically shoot for a max of 14.2 to allow for +/- .3 volts, but from the factory, they're set to 14.4v. Thanks for stopping by and for the information! Cheers! Zip~
You just saved me a wack of money thankyou.
Came for some knowledge about a voltage regulator, explained very well and simple. Hope my cub cadets voltage regulator Is still good
I'm glad this video helped out Andrew and I hope your Regulator is healthy. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for the informative video!!
very good info Zip....trouble-shooting and money saver brother!
great explanation \, you make things easy to understand.
Thanks 59!! I do my best to explain things without all the technical jargon.
I used limilar ones on the 1970ies ford Corrina/angler/escort/ and triumph so many old British car Austin Morris /Cambridge westminster.we used to bend them to adjust voltage flow
Some are fixed and some have tuning screws to increase or decrease spring tension. The former are a bit trickier to get dialed in, but once there, they'll last and last. Thanks again for stopping by Rohan! Zip~
That's for sure you have done great job
Hey 👋Zippo thanks for sharing 👍
No problem 👍
An outstanding video Zippo. thx
My book gives the gap for top and bottom of both voltage and ampree coils from what I see here suppose to make contact no wonder mine does not charge, that and testing all these heavey windings could be challenging. One thing for sure if all three contacts are closed it should charge maximum.
Thanks so much,, Was very helpful. Johnny
the good part of voltage regulaters is you can toss them in the trash can and go with alternator i wire easy hook up i did this to my m37 it gives 28 volts dc for my 24 volt system
Thanks for the info I've been trying to find this these other guys all say the same thing that the generator is bad i want to test the regulator
Great video guys cheers
Replaced the alt on my 69 Chevy due to it not charging. Now it over charging. So I replaced the regulator, same problem. It goes from 12v-16.6, and everywhere between while running, and the alt gets HOT. I'm curious if I got a bad "new" alternator
I think converting to a GM 1 wire alternator is in my trucks near future.
With everything being made in China now days I'd lean towards a defective alternator. Whatever you purchase as a replacement, I always suggest getting a Lifetime Warranty. Zip~
Need to show you my AC B10 and my AC 716H too . Old school stuff that works .
This is for the 3 coil type. You should make a video about the 2 coil type and the single coil type.
Thank you it helped me..
Thank you for editing your initial comment Ken. To haste is to fall short. In other words....Yes, I could have spent less time explaining the intricacies, but that would leave you or someone else without that crucial piece of information. Cheers! Zip~
When polarizing do you mean take the positive terminmal from the battery and simultaneusly contact the first 2 terminals on the Regulator?
This has been a helpfuly video for me considering this is my first go with this old of equipment, one questing i do have pertains to what looks like a plastic insulator on the back of the regulator under all the riveted areas, if its cracked will that cause issues
I have a HB112 that was sitting for 10 years. I got it started but the regulator smokes. I cleaned the three points and polarized it per this great video but it still smokes. Also, the engine does not shut off when I turn off the ignition switch. Any ideas?
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO.
I'm glad you found it helpful Chuck! Zip~
That was great the best thank you very much.
Thank you, sir !
What did he ADJUST? He sanded the points.... There wasn't any indication of an adjustment... What if you don't have 12-14.4 volts? What if it's too high, like 16v. What if it's 10.2 v? What temp should the car be and what temp was it in the place he was working in? What was the idle speed set at to get that 12-14.4 volts. More unanswered question than info given in the video. It's the closest I can come to my search and it's not even an AMERCAN vehicle...
Frustrated much Inside looking out? Ease up there a sec and listen. I (the "He" you referred to) will not give information out to the general public that must be done under controlled situations, that can result in personal injury or that can damage equipment. Which is WHY I didn't do any adjusting, explain idle speed function, at speed function, over or under voltage etc. I'm a responsible and conscientious individual who refuses to put potentially dangerous content in my videos. Lastly, These regulators are Delco Remy...aka USA MADE!! These particular regulators are for Farm Tractors and Garden Tractors (which translates to a lower amperage unit than is used in an automobile), which are also ALL Made in the USA. So, before you go off on the videographer because you're frustrated, you might think first about why I didn't include the information you so desperately need. Just a little FYI...you CAN Buy a NEW Regulator, properly set for cut in and cut out voltage at the right engine speed and mated to your alternator or Starter Generator at your local NAPA and save your self the aggravation all together. 9/10ths of these regulators just need the contacts cleaned in order to restore them to operating condition with no adjustments needed. If you've already messed with the adjustments, my suggestion is, go to a reputable electrical systems analyst and have them hook it up to their correct equipment to properly and safely set the regulators parameters to your specific needs. Otherwise, you risk more damage than is already evident. Zip~
Great content thanks for the info☕😃
No problem 👍
Once you've polarized it can it unpolarize itself over time?
And or what can cause it to unpolarize?
I have experienced this a few times. Often it happens when a unit has sat for an extended period of time. Zip~
i will try this on my old Harley.
Hello, i have a 56 buick roadmaster. Car was sitting down for almost 20 years. Have a problem finally car is running but my battery keeps draining. If i drive my car runs fine but next day battery is dead. I clean my voltage regulator like you said, i follow all steps exactly like you said. I run my car and voltage regulator read on my multimeter 13.5 and battery above 12. Next day after work my battery was 10.55 and voltage regulator was 10.11 and my car start it but my battery numbers came down to 9.10 and voltage regulator went up to 11.20.
I remove negative from my batter while was on and my car turn off. Should i buy a voltage regulator or my generator. Please need help. Thanks and great video especially how you explain step by step.
The problem sounds more like what's called a parasitic draw. Google the problem, "draining battery" or "Parasitic Draw" and you'll find some very good articles and videos on how to check and trace this issue. Something else on the car is causing the battery to drain while not in use. It appears your generator/alternator and regulator are doing their job. Keep me posted on your progress Ab. Zip~
I do have a question, the car goes off? An old generator system should continue to run even with the battery removed if the generator is working. New cars since the 70's need the alternator in the "loop" but not a 56 Buick. The generator should be putting out at least 12. something volts to show it is working and able to over power the battery and charge it. Should be able to find CZcams ways to check generator and or regulator. But if you are getting voltage then you have a different problem.If electricity is going to ground somewhere you have a short. You sure there isn't a clock, or light or something on drawing down the battery. It is pretty big power loss if you see that kind of loss overnight. You sure the battery is OK. Did you do a hydrometer test? Start at the battery make sure all the cells show good, no dead cells. Then turn everything off including the key see if there is continuity across the two terminals of the battery. or even a spark when try to put them back on their terminals. You may need to remove the BATT wire from the battery or regulator to not have this energize the regulator. If you do get continuity or a spark you have to figure out what is doing it. With a full battery take one fuse out of the fuse box at a time. Look for continuity or that pesky spark. Take a picture first just in case you get lost. Keep looking for that light or clock or something taking the power out of the battery. If you run out of fuses you are really in trouble. Good luck
Great video
Thanks Dave! I hope it's helpful. Zip~
Damn even after divorce they still try to keep a man out of his garage or mancave
Good information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the info
Very Good Video. Got a simple question, are ALL 12 Volt Reguators Interchangable? One off a Briggs to one off a Techumse? etc. or is there a difference.??? If so , what is the Difference??
There are differences MrDan. It's within the poles and how they deliver and bypass the charging circuits. It's also dependent on the alternator or generator that is in need of any given charging system. Your defense is identifying the alternator or generator type and its required regulator. This can be done in a number of ways, but the most direct and strait forward is identifying the alternator or generator being used via model numbers. Then, do an internet search for that alternator or generator along with regulator in the search and you will be directed to comparable regulators. I've got 3 different starter/generator types and each requires its own specifically configured regulator to work properly. I hope this helps and good luck! Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thank You, Glad I asked. I have a a MF 10 tractor with a 10 hp Tecumseh, Genny Starter on it and the Regulator is bad, I have one from a Cub Cadet with a Genny Starter and thought all the Genny Starter ones would be the same ? Maybe Not??
Video looks good , thanks - my battery has stopped charging so I will give this a go. Cheers
Good luck with diagnosing your charging issue David. Zip~
Question regarding these regulators. I bought a spare one just to have on hand. They are both virtually identical. The old one has 3 resistors on the back. The spare has only 2. Are they interchangeable? Maybe a superseded part? Or is this just the wrong one? It's for a 1976 XLH Sportster.
I would confirm compatibility with your local Harley Dealer's Parts department to make sure. Regulators can be picky as well as Stater's and Alternator's. Some don't play well together. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga absolutely, I didn't want to install it and fry my wiring harness!!!!
@@chrisrestifo7010 Exactly Chris. Which is why when in doubt, ask the professionals who are familiar with your Sportster and know what parts work and what ones will sizzle the whole system.
It is my understanding that you can only polarize a magnet. The magnet is in the generator. Therefore I believe what you are polarizing is the magnet in the generator and not anything in the regulator.
Hi Charles. You bring up a good point. The poles in the regulator are actually Electro Magnets and they're energized by the Generator. In order to regulate the charge/discharge, the poles open and close under two loads. Magnetic resistance and spring tension that's preset at the factory to approximately 14.4 volts DC, where as, when the battery is fully charged, the regulator closes the charge loop through one magnetically charged pole, preventing overcharging of the battery and other components. Cheers! Zip~
I should also add, there are no magnets in the Starter/Generator. All the fields are electrically generated through the frame mounted windings and the Armature via the brushes and commutator. Zip~
Question: I have a 1950 Chrysler Imperial which I I have to polarize the voltage regulator because It has a generator. But, Do I have to do the same with my 70 Chevy Impala Voltage Regulator If it runs off a Alternator.?.
My recommendation is to install everything, check for charge and if no charge, then polarize the regulator and check again. Zip~
Ok, Thanks.👍🏽
Hi Zippo, Kip here from PA. What causes the ammeter needle to dance back and forth? Thanks for the help with the head for my "Shoblower". Another great video
Hi Kip, once your battery is fully charged, the Regulator shuts off power going to the battery. But, it does this in a sort of "Float" mode where it kicks in and out of charge rapidly. This causes the Ammeter to jump. There is nothing wrong with your charging system. It's completely normal. If you swapped out the Ammeter for a Voltmeter, you wouldn't see any needle dancing as it reacts much slower than an Ammeter because it's wired differently. Where the Ammeter is a pass through (in line) connection, the Voltmeter is not connected via pass through (in line). It is connected to - and + independently where the Ammeter is connected to + and+. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks again!
Question I have a allis chalmers Hd6g high lift I took the generator off and cleaned all the inside out (caked with mud) and put all back together the brushes are making contact with commutator, I then cleaned points on regulator, but when I put voltmeter on generator and got a negative reading from battery terminal on generator. Would polarizing the generator wrong make it draw instead of charging?
does this have to be polarized everytime i swap out batterys?have a regulator that reads high and wondering if previous owner did not do this step.let me know please?thanks for your time.
Problem I have with my 12v system is that it's fine in park when the idle is higher, but in drive the voltage is borderline and the charge light comes on and runs like crap. It's never killed a battery and it'll always start the next day no problem. But let's say I take it for a ride, when I get it home the idle goes low and the charge light comes on. So I end up having to increase my idle just to make sure it doesn't give me trouble while in drive, but increasing your idle for that reason can lead to other issues. The contacts in my regulator were actually very clean. Does that sound like a polarizing issue or just a dirty/worn generator? I do take the battery out in the Winters. I know generators don't charge at low idle, but idle speed in drive in the handbook is 500 RPM and the light comes on even trying to set it at 650 RPM.
Excellent video!
Hey ZippoVarga , Every time I have to touch the battery and generator posts on the regulator, I pop the fuse in the tractor. Basically it's inline with the battery to regulator and charge indicator gauge.. Is the probably supposed to happen? And or I don't need that fused?
Bypass the fuse temporarily with a jump wire. Then reinstall the fuse. Zip~
so it has to be polarized everytime you swap out a battery?thanks for your videos!
Thanks for the info.
Good video
Well informed. One question....I didn't get a spark when I polarized it. Good or bad?
Sometimes you won't. If you're getting a charge, then all is well. Zip~
I went through your procedures. Regulator looks newer to me. Very clean. I polarized it again and did get a spark this time. I still discharge so I'm off to the gennie next. Buts thanks again!
Ah crap....still no charge. Off to the gennie.
Good job 👏🏻, how to bypass the 6 pin voltage regulator?
Battery to the field coil you mean?
Have a sears SS15 tractor with the starter generator setup. Had the generator rebuilt because I could feel the the bearing being bad when I changed out the belt. I Put everything back together started it but the volts stay at 12v unless I go above idle and then the generator charges above that. Got thinking maybe Voltage Regulator went bad from moving the wires around. But with the engine off I was checking everything over and I touch the case of the generator and it was hot. Funny thing the case was hot and the rear cover plate. BUT the front plate and armature shaft and nut was ok just warm and I had ran the engine for 45 minutes testing everything out. Bad rebuilt on the generator? Or could it be the regulator? My rebuild of the engine came out good but the generator... SOS And I have check and recheck the waring. I took a lot of pictures before taking the wires off. Still?
The commutator and brushes are at the tail cap, so that end of the S/G will get warmer, but it shouldn't be HOT to the touch. I would turn my attention to the Regulator and make sure you're not charging more than 14.4 volts to the battery. You can check this by testing just the voltage at the battery with the engine running. If it's over charging, the regulator needs attention and should be replaced or adjusted by a professional. If that checks out ok, then I would suspect that the tail cap bearing/bushing may be out of specification. Check the tail cap and frame near the tail cap. If the tail cap gets hot first, then I would venture the bearing/bushing is bad. Zip~
got an old 7016 and running fine until recently. Won't start, no spark. Can't find problem. Figure it's neutral safety or magneto? Possibly something else?
Polarizing my regulator causes my amp light to come on with the ignition off?? Am getting no charge. This is a brand new regulator.
I don't know what vehicle you're speaking of so it's hard for me to offer any assistance James. Zip~
Same happened to my 67 firebird gen light stays on after turning car off
Brand new regulator
Does this work on 6 volt systems positive grounds
On my old Suburban lawntractor I get 16 volts output from my starter/generator at idle. What should I check to get the voltage back down to 13-14 volts so it doesn't overcharge?
Is that at the Regulator? If so, source a local automotive electrical repair shop to properly set it. Shouldn't cost you much, and although the battery can handle 16V, it really should be reset to 14.4V cut off. Cheers! Zip~
16 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running after afew minutes run time, with the brand new aftermarket regulator the motor repair shop sold the previous owner of the tractor, along with the rebuilt starter/generator. I disconnected the F wire at the starter/generator and while running the battery was at 13.2 volts so it is the regulator. I put my old rusty Delco regulator back on it and it gives me 15.5 volts at the battery terminals so I'll run that one for now. I'll have to call the shop that rebuilt the starter/generator and see if they can set the regulator. Thanks
looking through the comments and looking for something on a voltage regulator over charging, you don't have anything on it? plus someone in comments mentioned that you need to polarize it when you change batteries, is that correct?
appreciate a cure. i have a regulator ordered and would rather not have had to buy it,
thank you
To be honest, your regulator either has a bad pole or it's way out of adjustment and needs to be calibrated. This should only be done by a qualified technician. If one isn't available to you, then I suggest replacing your faulty unit. I know it sucks, but trying to make any adjustments yourself can result in the battery blowing up on you due to excessive voltage. Sorry I don't have better news. Zip~
been here and watched this one too
Thanks
Hey buddy I have a 1941 Chevy special deluxe and I did a boo boo and touched my screw driver to starter positive and the ground on fire wall and I lost all power no power on the dash or lights the fuse in-line to lights is not blown. Have no power to start as well battery is good. Any help trying to get power back up would be appreciated ahead of time.
Is a 6 volt system!
?4U - The resistor underneath I have a regulator that has a broken one, is it possible i could replace/solder or otherwise repair it, if so with what? (by that I mean could I get a axial-lead resistor to replace it, if so at what OHM). If not, are there any other ways/type replacements I could buy.