I made a small, shallow wedge from scrap MAPLE (hard tight grain) wood. Positioned wedge under bolt handle and receiver. A few taps with a light weight body panel hammer and the bolt was out. No monster grip required.
@2:55 depending on model, some have the nut sealed down with locktite. There is no way to remove that nut without applying so much force you risk damaging the recoil spring tube. There are some workarounds that use heat, a torch worked for me but a lighter didn't. It was very difficult to break it free, even with the heat. Also, the recoil pad in several models is screwed down. No amount of prying will get that bugger off if screwed.
I have an M1 and an M2. Neither of the instruction booklets mentioned the location, removing, cleaning or even the existence of the recoil spring. My M1 never had a failure to feed or fire for 5 years but it was under Hurricane Katrina flood waters for 3 weeks and Hurricane Rita water for another week. So I bought the M2. My fried and I hunted dove all season and not just opening day. for one or two weekends we hunted in tall Johnson grass and I noticed my shotgun fail to eject or feed. I cleaned it in the field and at home. When it happened again, I cleaned it and sent it back through my dealer. Benelli set it back but told the dealer it was the dirtiest gun he ever worked on. I called Benelli and asked them wtf was dirty. They said the recoil spring. I asked him where it says to clean it. He says well it doesn't but you have to. How? Remove the butt pad, unscrew the stock, put recoil spring tube in a vice (I wrapped an old leather belt around it), Heat the red thread locker treated threads and remove everything. From then on, I clean the recoil spring every other cleaning and I use blue locktite instead of red. I also cleaned and oiled my M1. It was severely rusted and looks worm eaten on the outside but only has a dime sized rust spot near the choke tube. It has still never missed a lick.
The recoil tube in the butt of my Cordoba would not budge. Called Benelli this morning and Chris told me to use a hairdryer/heat gun(low) and hit it with heat as you try breaking it. Don;t get it redhot and then try the wrench, do them together., Hope this helps someone. The reason , they locktite that closed . . . what he said.
lol I was trying to decide either a side by side or a semi auto. after seeing which one was easier to maintain I think i'll be going with a side by side XD
is there a retaining clip for the trigger pin to keep in place . pin just fell out during competition today . 1 st time use and gun was pre assembled .
The stock nut comes off easily with a 13mm socket. The mainspring retainer is a bitch which is not mentioned in the manual but comes off with a 17mm wrench. Both my M1 and M2 mainspring retainers were held on with red threadlocker and had to be heated to remove. Like Mike Bauer said, use a lighter.
I tried taking off the stock retaining nut screw but the recoil spring tube twisted and came out instead. How can I loosen the stock screw without damaging something?
Good afternoon I'm from Brazil I have a benelli black eagle 2 but our ammunition from Brazil is mostly from 24grains I wonder if there is any spring on the market that I could use
Alex C push the firing pin in slightly then remove the retaining pin. IMPORTANT... Be sure to keep a finger over the firing pin or it will eject it self along with the firing pin spring. Don't want to loose either part.
Tobias Forge bolt handle will come out. May have to wiggle it. Strong hands helps. They are suppose to be tight so you you don't loose them in the field.
Once removed the recoil spring and the stock retaining nut screw Will proceed through the drywall of your ceiling and enter low earth orbit.
Could you Gentlemen make a Benelli M3 field strip and cleaning video? It would be greatly appreciated.
I made a small, shallow wedge from scrap MAPLE (hard tight grain) wood. Positioned wedge under bolt handle and receiver. A few taps with a light weight body panel hammer and the bolt was out. No monster grip required.
The m1s have thread locker in a few places and requires heat to remove also the pad is removed with screws
@2:55 depending on model, some have the nut sealed down with locktite. There is no way to remove that nut without applying so much force you risk damaging the recoil spring tube. There are some workarounds that use heat, a torch worked for me but a lighter didn't. It was very difficult to break it free, even with the heat.
Also, the recoil pad in several models is screwed down. No amount of prying will get that bugger off if screwed.
I have an M1 and an M2. Neither of the instruction booklets mentioned the location, removing, cleaning or even the existence of the recoil spring. My M1 never had a failure to feed or fire for 5 years but it was under Hurricane Katrina flood waters for 3 weeks and Hurricane Rita water for another week. So I bought the M2. My fried and I hunted dove all season and not just opening day. for one or two weekends we hunted in tall Johnson grass and I noticed my shotgun fail to eject or feed. I cleaned it in the field and at home. When it happened again, I cleaned it and sent it back through my dealer. Benelli set it back but told the dealer it was the dirtiest gun he ever worked on. I called Benelli and asked them wtf was dirty. They said the recoil spring. I asked him where it says to clean it. He says well it doesn't but you have to. How? Remove the butt pad, unscrew the stock, put recoil spring tube in a vice (I wrapped an old leather belt around it), Heat the red thread locker treated threads and remove everything. From then on, I clean the recoil spring every other cleaning and I use blue locktite instead of red. I also cleaned and oiled my M1. It was severely rusted and looks worm eaten on the outside but only has a dime sized rust spot near the choke tube. It has still never missed a lick.
Intimidating
The recoil tube in the butt of my Cordoba would not budge. Called Benelli this morning and Chris told me to use a hairdryer/heat gun(low) and hit it with heat as you try breaking it. Don;t get it redhot and then try the wrench, do them together., Hope this helps someone. The reason , they locktite that closed . . . what he said.
benelli is best...
lol I was trying to decide either a side by side or a semi auto. after seeing which one was easier to maintain I think i'll be going with a side by side XD
can you guys please make a video like this for the super nova!!
How to operate a browning bar 243
WARNING. THIS VIDEO does not apply to a Super Black Eagle 12 ga (I). The but pad has SCREWS and does not pull off.
Hhhnjjn6673h is
is there a retaining clip for the trigger pin to keep in place . pin just fell out during competition today . 1 st time use and gun was pre assembled .
I assume no one has actually ever tried to remove the stock retaining nut ... because apparently Benelli welds them on. They don't come off.
Heat it and it will come off
Howard Roark Just took mine off and replaced the spring. Try some heat from a butane lighter, it may have thread lock on it.
The stock nut comes off easily with a 13mm socket. The mainspring retainer is a bitch which is not mentioned in the manual but comes off with a 17mm wrench. Both my M1 and M2 mainspring retainers were held on with red threadlocker and had to be heated to remove. Like Mike Bauer said, use a lighter.
Thanks for explaining this . I’m over here cranking on it
Montefeltro please
I tried taking off the stock retaining nut screw but the recoil spring tube twisted and came out instead. How can I loosen the stock screw without damaging something?
what about a video to remove and replace the ejector plate ?
Good afternoon I'm from Brazil I have a benelli black eagle 2 but our ammunition from Brazil is mostly from 24grains I wonder if there is any spring on the market that I could use
Buy yourself a Browning maxus 😊
SUPER NOVA PLEASE!
👍👍
Where is part 2? Or 3?
My firing pin retaining pin is a pain to remove, what gives?
Alex C push the firing pin in slightly then remove the retaining pin. IMPORTANT... Be sure to keep a finger over the firing pin or it will eject it self along with the firing pin spring. Don't want to loose either part.
My bolt handle doesn't come out... This video was not very helpful.
Tobias Forge bolt handle will come out. May have to wiggle it. Strong hands helps. They are suppose to be tight so you you don't loose them in the field.
try pressing in the locking head and then pull the bolt handle out. That's the way I did it
Guy looks like he shaved his arms for this video lol