Video saved for future reference. Thanks for this. I had dropped my airbrush..didn't land hard, but when I went back to use it, the airflow was sparse with paint...airbrush cleaner was perfectly fine. Changed the nozzle and the packing head O-ring and resulted in the same issue. Found your vid and took apart the valve only to find the O-Ring (7 as per diagram) was cut in half....WOW. Just ordered some replacement O-rings. Thanks again
@@TheAirbrushGarage question.. Are the holes on the valve supposed to line up in a specific way? After chsnging the o-ring.. It worked as it did the day i bought it. After alllwing the forst coat to dry for 17 minutes and cleaning the airbrush thoroughly.. It sorta wemt back to the same scenario. Im thinking it could have been my paint as i had let it sit for a few days and forgot to rethin it a bit because at my normal final wet coat i was using 10psi to give it extra gloss. Im going to try and remix my paint from new but any ideas would help greatly
@@TheAirbrushGarage figured as much.. Totally forgot to rethin. Haven't built a model in a few years and this is my first airbrush so learning as I go. Issues with the model itself with parts not fitting properly amongst other issues has delayed completion then the airbrush broke so just eager to finish it
And here I thought I was doing something wrong with my needle packing screw screwdriver. It turns out I also need to shave the blades of it so it'll fit in the slots. Thank you for that.
Just picked up my HP-CS, after 13 years in a drawer. Luck was with me, works as good as the 1st day I bought it. AWESOME job Iwata. Even though, I am looking at doing this for mine. Keep it running for another 15 years.
Thank you for sharing. I like the Dixieart webpage, especially with it being a veteran own and ran business. My only issue is that they don’t have a PayPal payment option which isn’t a show-stopper. Thanks again.
Tom, I am so glad you subscribed and thank you for the kind words. I try to make my channel all about airbrush but not all about the actual painting. I try to mix it up. thanks again.
Jerry, I'm glad you liked the video. And yes, being a one man show... this video thing is tough but I would like to think I am getting better every week. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. I was trying to figure out how to get the air valve guide body out. I ran a cleaning brush through it like you said and it came right out.
Very nice video. FYI you can use the same screwdriver that has the post, to install and set the Packing Valve Piston O”ring, when reinstalling the air valve guide body.
What is the needle number to buy for Iwata eclipse hp-cs I bought I 6172 .35 mm from hobby lobby didn’t want to open it if it’s wrong needle cause our hobby lobby won’t take it back if opened
First off it’s a rear seal, or needle bearing, not a chucking nut, second, always, I mean always Lube a O-ring, before using it, a o-ring needs to “squirm “ to seal proper, a dry o-ring may fail, also a o-ring needs to be wet to not cut itself while inserting over a rough environment. Lube every moving point, trigger, top of airvalve, trigger tensioner housing, needle, and all threaded parts, I use beeswax on threads. Don’t worry about the Lube, just run a couple of bowls full of alcohol through the airbrush when your done, that will clean from the air chamber through the nozzle and needle tip!
Mark, wow! Love your passion. Sorry the video upset you so much. Just for the record I use that rebuilt brush every day without issue, it works great. I don't like using lube on open air parts as I found it could become sticky and pick up dust. I respect your thoroughness and your perspective. And thanks for watching. I really do appreciate the comments.
@@TheAirbrushGarage I’m not upset, I’m a newbie to airbrush’s but not mechanics, I’ve dealt with 10,000’s of o-rings, is some very critical applications and know a dry o-ring “can” be a problem, now, we’re dealing with a non critical application here, but to me I have to continue to do what I think is right, keep in mind your audience is not just made up of Iwata users, and there is lots of cheap airbrush’s that don’t have the quality of sealing surfaces as Iwata. So every bit helps! Not mad just some food for thought!
Just bought it,very happy with it sofar,first time disassembling it i can't seem to unscrew one of the two parts of the nozzle cap head,the small endcap comes off easily,but the one underneath doesn't budge..
Vincent, the only caps on the front of the brush are the needle protective cap and the needle nozzle cap that needs a spanner wrench.@@vincentroelofs8908
Pauley, I replace needles and compression nozzles like on the eclipse about once a year. My needle tips get a little funny from me picking tip dry off with my fingers. And the nozzle gets a little worn from taking it on and off its made of brass. I clean my brush when I'm done painting for the day. Some people say that's wrong but it works for me. I have a video on cleaning. If ya get a chance check it out. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching and subscribing.
Great job; very thorough with good explanations. One critique, that you may already realize, is that your framing is off. The camera angle is lower than your hands when you demonstrated in the first part of the video, and it cuts off the image we should be seeing. You could create a target zone on your cutting mat for an easy reference to what your camera is seeing. Thanks!
I did quite a lot of what you are doing here last month on my side feed SBS. You didn't quite say what you DID push down on to get the air part of the system out. I'd really like to know what to actually push on as I'd like to take mine apart there just clean it totally. Or did it just push/slid out with the cleaning brush as it's UNDER the O ring?? Thanks.
Just a quick question, did you apply lubricant to the o rings that you had replaced? I noticed taking it apart there was grease on the valve body piece and wasn’t sure if the replacement needed lubricant as well.
Zodark, I did not apply any lubricant. Some lubricants can get sticky over time. I decided not to go with any and its been a couple of year now and I have had no issues and I use that brush a lot. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage I see! I was looking at the Iwata cleaning guide and they said if the trigger feels tight or not closing immediately, that a drop as the base of the trigger of it pressed down and back will help with this. I noticed after replacing the valve parts that it was doing this and put 1 drop down there and it wasn't "sticky" anymore. Awesome video though! It was helpful.
I have bcs and when I turn on full fluid and air and shut off paint sticks to needle and when start spray again it splatters .do you know what the problem is put new nozzle and polished and re sharpened the needle
Damen, it sounds like tip dry. You have to make sure when you push the trigger forward to shut the paint off that the air is still on so it blows off any pai t on the needle. Now, as far as the spatter. Get a small paint t brush and a small cup with some reducer in it. Brush the tip of the needle and where it comes out of the nozzle with the reducer. Blot dry with a paper towel. If that doesn't work, then you will have to clean your nozzle. Use a needed reamer. Hope this helps.
Luis, you re right. I looked back at the video and it must have gotten edited out. My mistake. I used the blue tweezers you see in the video to unscrew the value nut. There is a wrench you can buy but the tweezers work just fine. I do talk about the mistakes I made trying to get the body out and how I ultimately removed it. Sorry for the miss. Thanks for your feeed back and thanks for watching.
Use a cotton bud to remove the air valve guide body. - it's easy it's way, and you won't score it with a hard tool. Cringe moment when you had the needle point facing down onto the desk. Don't drop it! No video footage of you launching the air valve guide screw across the room when taking it off or putting it on?
@@ryanbarkley6497 You are removing it to clean it or replace it. Using sharp tools to do it is a recipe for disaster, he says himself in the video. You could use a wooden tooth pick, or cocktail stick, as another example. I used a cotton bud that was soaked in water and cleaning solution. no cotton was left anywhere, and it was cleaned and reseated perfectly. thank you.
Neal, that's funny how you new about the air valve guide screw. Yes! It happened exactly as you said. I launched it twice! and of course edited it out. lol. Thanks for the comment and watching, much appreciated.
@@TheAirbrushGarage Haha, I know from experience too ;-) Tweezers was a good tool to use, I'll try that next time. I'd like to find a simple tool for the job. Keep up the good work with the videos, I've watched a few more already and found them useful.
Neal - I've got to admit that I myself cringed too when I watched that section of the video and he was demonstrating how easy that needle slid through that nylon packing with gravity's help. I just knew when I seen that needle suddenly drop about 2 inches before it stopped that if gravity had its way, that needle would become another item for the file-13 filing cabinet filing system (better known as the trash can). But alas and thankfully, gravity did not get its way because I like to think Lady Luck took a hand and saved the day. Maybe I'm wrong, but to me it would have been better if that portion of the test would have been conducted over a 2 inch thick neoprene rubber pad. Anyway Neal, thanks for the comment towards that. I was wondering if I was the only one that noticed that and had such a cringe moment.
As I previously explained in another comment I just purchased my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush. - WHY? - Because both you and almost all other airbrush experts highly recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS as the next goto general workhorse in an airbrush upgrade. - So I went with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush in my upgrade. I know that the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush comes with the 0.35 needle and nozzle set already installed from the factory. - But, do you know (or can you tell me), if the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Nozzle”, and the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Fluid Needle” will interchange with, fit on (in), and work in the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush? Of all the different video’s I’ve watched pertaining to the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush, Not one of the other airbrush experts on CZcams has ever mentioned anything about ever having changed out the two needle systems in their Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush or if that needle/nozzle combo switcheroo has been done or could be done. So therefore, basically, what I'm asking is if the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Nozzle”, and the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Fluid Needle” will interchange with, the factory installed 0.35 needle and nozzle set and work in the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush?
It does appear that it has a compression nozzle like the eclipse I have never heard of anyone ever doing what you are asking but if the body of the needle is close to the same diameter it probably would work. I would reach out to iwata they are very good with their customer service.
@@TheAirbrushGarage - OK I will ask them thank You. P. S. - I had a chance to test my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush today. You were right, I Love it, as it works like a dream, now I will have to do a lot more practice with it just to get used to it's little quirks.
@@TheAirbrushGarage - In reference to converting the Iwata eclipse to a .5 needle here is a video pertaining to that subject I found on CZcams. The video’s title is - "HOW TO CONVERT IWATA HP-CS AIRBRUSH TO .5 NEEDLE". It was posted by “Custom Scale Models” in case you are interested in how to convert it yourself.
It is funny how people have to explain how They do something ( the end result being the same ). "The Expert Advice" is unbelievable on anything to do with Plumbing and will take over the comments section completely.
You know............If you clean and maintain your airbrush there is no reason to rebuild it..........I've regularly used my Badger Patriot 105 for almost 20 years and it still works great with the same needle.
I only did it because it was it's 20th anniversary and I thought it might be a helpful video. But yes, I totally agree with you but some people do not maintain or inherit a brush that may need some new parts. Thanks for the comment and watching.
Philipe, thank you for the feedback. I understand. That was early on, and I have learned a lot over the years, and I would like to think my later videos got better. Lol. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.
Video saved for future reference. Thanks for this. I had dropped my airbrush..didn't land hard, but when I went back to use it, the airflow was sparse with paint...airbrush cleaner was perfectly fine. Changed the nozzle and the packing head O-ring and resulted in the same issue. Found your vid and took apart the valve only to find the O-Ring (7 as per diagram) was cut in half....WOW. Just ordered some replacement O-rings. Thanks again
I am glad you liked the video Kevin. It's nice to hear my videos are helping fellow airbrushers.
@@TheAirbrushGarage question.. Are the holes on the valve supposed to line up in a specific way? After chsnging the o-ring.. It worked as it did the day i bought it. After alllwing the forst coat to dry for 17 minutes and cleaning the airbrush thoroughly.. It sorta wemt back to the same scenario. Im thinking it could have been my paint as i had let it sit for a few days and forgot to rethin it a bit because at my normal final wet coat i was using 10psi to give it extra gloss. Im going to try and remix my paint from new but any ideas would help greatly
Kevin, there is no specific way. It sounds like it is a paint related issue. Most problems can be from the paint.
@@TheAirbrushGarage figured as much.. Totally forgot to rethin. Haven't built a model in a few years and this is my first airbrush so learning as I go. Issues with the model itself with parts not fitting properly amongst other issues has delayed completion then the airbrush broke so just eager to finish it
And here I thought I was doing something wrong with my needle packing screw screwdriver. It turns out I also need to shave the blades of it so it'll fit in the slots. Thank you for that.
Rebuilding my HP-CS and BCS airbrush and your video is a real help. THANKS
Thank you. Just bought a Iwata eclipse 4-9-23
D Allen, nice! I hope you like it as much as I like mine.
Very helpful and very timely, as I just got new parts.
Hey, Dan. Alyssa told me about your site. Look forward to watching your videos!
Just picked up my HP-CS, after 13 years in a drawer. Luck was with me, works as good as the 1st day I bought it. AWESOME job Iwata.
Even though, I am looking at doing this for mine. Keep it running for another 15 years.
Richard, thanks for sharing and watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage You did an outstanding job and I truely thank you for your service on this subject.
Cool video
Very helpful, good information
Thanks for this. Was looking for some insight into the Eclipse!
Thanks for putting this out here. Very helpful.
Harry, thanks for the comment. Much appreciated and thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank's man!!
Very helpful thanks
Thank you for sharing. I like the Dixieart webpage, especially with it being a veteran own and ran business. My only issue is that they don’t have a PayPal payment option which isn’t a show-stopper. Thanks again.
Excellent, very helpful. I've watched several of your videos and this one pushed me into the subscriber category.
Tom, I am so glad you subscribed and thank you for the kind words. I try to make my channel all about airbrush but not all about the actual painting. I try to mix it up. thanks again.
They have a wrench. I have a link to Spraygunner the screwdriver and the wrench come together. Found out about it after the fact.
Jerry, I'm glad you liked the video. And yes, being a one man show... this video thing is tough but I would like to think I am getting better every week. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. I was trying to figure out how to get the air valve guide body out. I ran a cleaning brush through it like you said and it came right out.
Dan, I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for dropping me a comment and thanks for watching.
This video perfectly explained what i needed
Thank you very much
Gus, I am glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching.
Good work
Thanks Jose. Thank you for watching.
Very nice video. FYI you can use the same screwdriver that has the post, to install and set the Packing Valve Piston O”ring, when reinstalling the air valve guide body.
Steven, thanks for the info! I appreciate you watching.
Good video, however missing some key shots because out of camera upper left.
What is the needle number to buy for Iwata eclipse hp-cs I bought I 6172 .35 mm from hobby lobby didn’t want to open it if it’s wrong needle cause our hobby lobby won’t take it back if opened
First off it’s a rear seal, or needle bearing, not a chucking nut, second, always, I mean always Lube a O-ring, before using it, a o-ring needs to “squirm “ to seal proper, a dry o-ring may fail, also a o-ring needs to be wet to not cut itself while inserting over a rough environment.
Lube every moving point, trigger, top of airvalve, trigger tensioner housing, needle, and all threaded parts, I use beeswax on threads.
Don’t worry about the Lube, just run a couple of bowls full of alcohol through the airbrush when your done, that will clean from the air chamber through the nozzle and needle tip!
Mark, wow! Love your passion. Sorry the video upset you so much. Just for the record I use that rebuilt brush every day without issue, it works great. I don't like using lube on open air parts as I found it could become sticky and pick up dust. I respect your thoroughness and your perspective. And thanks for watching. I really do appreciate the comments.
@@TheAirbrushGarage
I’m not upset, I’m a newbie to airbrush’s but not mechanics, I’ve dealt with 10,000’s of o-rings, is some very critical applications and know a dry o-ring “can” be a problem, now, we’re dealing with a non critical application here, but to me I have to continue to do what I think is right, keep in mind your audience is not just made up of Iwata users, and there is lots of cheap airbrush’s that don’t have the quality of sealing surfaces as Iwata. So every bit helps!
Not mad just some food for thought!
Just bought it,very happy with it sofar,first time disassembling it i can't seem to unscrew one of the two parts of the nozzle cap head,the small endcap comes off easily,but the one underneath doesn't budge..
Vincent, are you referring to the needle nozzle cap? The one that exposes and gives access to the brass needle nozzle?
It's the middle one,the bigger one with the jagged edge..
Vincent, the only caps on the front of the brush are the needle protective cap and the needle nozzle cap that needs a spanner wrench.@@vincentroelofs8908
@@TheAirbrushGarage Thanks,but it's actually 3 parts that can be seperated,got it finally unscrewed,probably just too tight off factory.
Liked your video. Subed. Old goat new to airbrushing. What would you replace/clean on a scheduled basis?
Pauley, I replace needles and compression nozzles like on the eclipse about once a year. My needle tips get a little funny from me picking tip dry off with my fingers. And the nozzle gets a little worn from taking it on and off its made of brass. I clean my brush when I'm done painting for the day. Some people say that's wrong but it works for me. I have a video on cleaning. If ya get a chance check it out. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching and subscribing.
Great job; very thorough with good explanations. One critique, that you may already realize, is that your framing is off. The camera angle is lower than your hands when you demonstrated in the first part of the video, and it cuts off the image we should be seeing. You could create a target zone on your cutting mat for an easy reference to what your camera is seeing. Thanks!
Yes Agreef. I'm working to get better all the time. But a one man show can be tough. But I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
How tight do you screw in the spring guide...until it stops...or back it off a couple turns
Paul, I screw it in until it stops. There is no need to over tighten. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching.
I did quite a lot of what you are doing here last month on my side feed SBS. You didn't quite say what you DID push down on to get the air part of the system out. I'd really like to know what to actually push on as I'd like to take mine apart there just clean it totally. Or did it just push/slid out with the cleaning brush as it's UNDER the O ring?? Thanks.
SS, yes, it slid out with the cleaning brush. Thank you for the question, and thanks for watching.
What size is the screw driver for the needle seal? I got one but wont fit in my iwata eclipse bottom bottle.
I am not sure of a size but here is a link amzn.to/3MJ3uVK I hope this helps.
Just a quick question, did you apply lubricant to the o rings that you had replaced? I noticed taking it apart there was grease on the valve body piece and wasn’t sure if the replacement needed lubricant as well.
Zodark, I did not apply any lubricant. Some lubricants can get sticky over time. I decided not to go with any and its been a couple of year now and I have had no issues and I use that brush a lot. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage I see! I was looking at the Iwata cleaning guide and they said if the trigger feels tight or not closing immediately, that a drop as the base of the trigger of it pressed down and back will help with this. I noticed after replacing the valve parts that it was doing this and put 1 drop down there and it wasn't "sticky" anymore. Awesome video though! It was helpful.
I have bcs and when I turn on full fluid and air and shut off paint sticks to needle and when start spray again it splatters .do you know what the problem is put new nozzle and polished and re sharpened the needle
Damen, it sounds like tip dry. You have to make sure when you push the trigger forward to shut the paint off that the air is still on so it blows off any pai t on the needle. Now, as far as the spatter. Get a small paint t brush and a small cup with some reducer in it. Brush the tip of the needle and where it comes out of the nozzle with the reducer. Blot dry with a paper towel. If that doesn't work, then you will have to clean your nozzle. Use a needed reamer. Hope this helps.
You did not explain how to remove the Air Valve Guide Body.
Luis, you re right. I looked back at the video and it must have gotten edited out. My mistake. I used the blue tweezers you see in the video to unscrew the value nut. There is a wrench you can buy but the tweezers work just fine. I do talk about the mistakes I made trying to get the body out and how I ultimately removed it. Sorry for the miss. Thanks for your feeed back and thanks for watching.
If you're going to do it disassembly video show the whole disassembly. You completely blew over the lower half of the airbrush
Chris, thanks for the feedback. I have gotten better (I think) with each video I do. The feedback really does help.
Use a cotton bud to remove the air valve guide body. - it's easy it's way, and you won't score it with a hard tool.
Cringe moment when you had the needle point facing down onto the desk. Don't drop it!
No video footage of you launching the air valve guide screw across the room when taking it off or putting it on?
@@ryanbarkley6497 You are removing it to clean it or replace it. Using sharp tools to do it is a recipe for disaster, he says himself in the video. You could use a wooden tooth pick, or cocktail stick, as another example. I used a cotton bud that was soaked in water and cleaning solution. no cotton was left anywhere, and it was cleaned and reseated perfectly. thank you.
Neal, that's funny how you new about the air valve guide screw. Yes! It happened exactly as you said. I launched it twice! and of course edited it out. lol. Thanks for the comment and watching, much appreciated.
@@TheAirbrushGarage Haha, I know from experience too ;-)
Tweezers was a good tool to use, I'll try that next time. I'd like to find a simple tool for the job.
Keep up the good work with the videos, I've watched a few more already and found them useful.
Neal - I've got to admit that I myself cringed too when I watched that section of the video and he was demonstrating how easy that needle slid through that nylon packing with gravity's help. I just knew when I seen that needle suddenly drop about 2 inches before it stopped that if gravity had its way, that needle would become another item for the file-13 filing cabinet filing system (better known as the trash can). But alas and thankfully, gravity did not get its way because I like to think Lady Luck took a hand and saved the day.
Maybe I'm wrong, but to me it would have been better if that portion of the test would have been conducted over a 2 inch thick neoprene rubber pad.
Anyway Neal, thanks for the comment towards that. I was wondering if I was the only one that noticed that and had such a cringe moment.
As I previously explained in another comment I just purchased my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush. - WHY? - Because both you and almost all other airbrush experts highly recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS as the next goto general workhorse in an airbrush upgrade. - So I went with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush in my upgrade.
I know that the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush comes with the 0.35 needle and nozzle set already installed from the factory. - But, do you know (or can you tell me), if the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Nozzle”, and the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Fluid Needle” will interchange with, fit on (in), and work in the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush?
Of all the different video’s I’ve watched pertaining to the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush, Not one of the other airbrush experts on CZcams has ever mentioned anything about ever having changed out the two needle systems in their Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush or if that needle/nozzle combo switcheroo has been done or could be done.
So therefore, basically, what I'm asking is if the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Nozzle”, and the “Iwata Eclipse BCS 0.5mm Fluid Needle” will interchange with, the factory installed 0.35 needle and nozzle set and work in the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush?
It does appear that it has a compression nozzle like the eclipse I have never heard of anyone ever doing what you are asking but if the body of the needle is close to the same diameter it probably would work. I would reach out to iwata they are very good with their customer service.
@@TheAirbrushGarage - OK I will ask them thank You.
P. S. - I had a chance to test my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush today. You were right, I Love it, as it works like a dream, now I will have to do a lot more practice with it just to get used to it's little quirks.
@@TheAirbrushGarage - In reference to converting the Iwata eclipse to a .5 needle here is a video pertaining to that subject I found on CZcams. The video’s title is - "HOW TO CONVERT IWATA HP-CS AIRBRUSH TO .5 NEEDLE". It was posted by “Custom Scale Models” in case you are interested in how to convert it yourself.
It is funny how people have to explain how They do something ( the end result being the same ). "The Expert Advice" is unbelievable on anything to do with Plumbing and will take over the comments section completely.
You know............If you clean and maintain your airbrush there is no reason to rebuild it..........I've regularly used my Badger Patriot 105 for almost 20 years and it still works great with the same needle.
I only did it because it was it's 20th anniversary and I thought it might be a helpful video. But yes, I totally agree with you but some people do not maintain or inherit a brush that may need some new parts. Thanks for the comment and watching.
Your video would have been better if you were in frame.. You kept moving out of frame
Philipe, thank you for the feedback. I understand. That was early on, and I have learned a lot over the years, and I would like to think my later videos got better. Lol. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.