Update: We just realized that this video says the wrong tech spec! The video mentions the stopping speed of the Revo is 2 m/s and it's actually 4m/s. We're adding an annotation to the video now. Sorry about that!
thanks for this video. I know a lot of people were asking several questions about this device and this seems to answer them all. this device looks amazing and is truly pushing belay devices forward instead of relying on the same design as everyone else is doing.
Got mine on order so will get my Revo in the first shipment, have to say I am intrigued to see what this can offer the Solo climber and if it can be a replacement for the silent partner...
This is amazing. Thanks WeighMyRack for the detailed insights. I cant wait to see the device in action myself. I expect it to be by far the best belay device for gym climbing and single pitches next year and other companies will copy the principle the years after.
Half a pound isn't TOO heavy for a gym / single pitch device. When Petzl is adding buttons, Trango has a lecture to explain how to use theirs and BD is just copying other companies; Edelrid and now Wild Country are the only two with truly innovative industry changing devices. Wild Country in particular has made a genius device for gym and single pitching. While Edelrid's Mega Jul is the most well rounded device and is insanely light weight for being so.
Don't mistake a lack of innovation being a bad thing. The GriGri is already a perfectly fine device and Petzl ironed out the major flaw (lack of anti panic system) and added a potentially nice feature to increase the comfort (lead/top button). Innovation in itself is no way to describe quality. Trangos device is also innovation, but it simply seems to be no good.
Messiahs very true it is NOT the ONLY defining factor. That said, climbing equipment in general doesn't see a lot of technical innovation. "If it ain't broke don't fix it." But climbing is also incredibly dangerous. Engineering and tech used to increase safety is always exciting to see.
Matt Nicassio I know the mega Jul is quite nice, but you have the risk of the device braking. What do you think of the click up and the Mammut smart? They also come in two rope versions and are way lighter than the revo.
Release Update: The Revo is now coming out in Winter 2017 (not summer). To guarantee perfect functionality with the widest spectrum of rope diameters, they're doing some design modifications that have delayed the process.
Just wondering about the self belay capabilities of this? Is it safer than Grigri, is it possible to catch an upside down fall? Not sure if any would know this, just a question.
I am pretty positive that it will catch an upside-down fall (unlike a grigri...). The working principle (centrifugal force brake) of the Revo is pretty similar to that of a silent partner which holds upside down falls. But the interior of the two devices is quite different. While the Silent partner's holding power comes mainly from the tightening up of the clove hitch (there are 3 rollers inside of a Silent Partner which stop the drum from spinning and therefore tighten up the clove hitch), the holding power of the Revo on the other hand is entirely based on the internal mechanisms. Apart from that the connection between the Carabiner and the Revo looks like a possible breaking point to me, especially if you crossload the connection. I would trust a Silent Partner way more than a Revo and a Revo more than a GriGri. Nevertheless, I think that the Revo could be a really easy to use soloing device if you know what you are doing, got used to the device, prevent crossloading of the connection point and USE BACKUP KNOTS (as with any solo device unless your name is Pete Whittaker)
Hey Rob, Im wondering why you would trust this more than a grigri. I want to explore the option of this device for soloing as it seems incredibly better for paying out rope with one hand, but it seems way more succebtable to failure based on my limited knowledge @@roblux1
The REVO was released into the states a few months ago and there were a few folks lucky enough to snag one. Unfortunately, it's backodered at the moment, but you can put in an order from REI: goo.gl/6h8wxb
quick question with an atc, when a fall occurs, you pull down hard with your brake hand down when catching a fall with the revo, and you do the same thing, would this disengage the auto locking feature, and then you would be catching them purely on the friction?
no the autolocking feature will still work as intended. If you pull down hard and the rope slips through your hand it will still autolock. Part of the video he shows if you are pulling the release mechanism, it will still lock when there is a fall. The locking mechanism is dependent on fall speed, so if the person is falling faster than 2m/s it will lock no matter the status of the device it seems.
No and Yes depending on your needs. The Revo will work for single rope rappelling (like simul-rapping) but this is not the standard rappel technique that is used with devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso, that hold two rope strands at a time. Since single rope rappelling is more of an advanced technique the majority of climbers will not rappel with the Revo device and will instead be lowered-this is the same limitation as the Petzl GriGi. When rappelling with the Revo, it will function very similarly to a single-strand tuber, like a Black Diamond ATC Sport but with the added safety of the locking mechanism if you were to lose control of the brake rope.
Pro gear's ! We both need this ! Fast ' and accurate to stop the falling climber's ! On time's safe a life 's ! Get it and use to it ! Made in usa ! Leaders of the belay's device!!! Invitation to new and pro ' climbers
FWIW, Wild Country doesn't have videos for quite a few of their products. In general product videos cost a company anywhere from $500 (when done in-house, cutting every cost possible, and batching many products together) to $3000+ for a product video that includes in-action shots. It takes a lot of carabiners/belay devices to get those costs back.
Now available at Backcountry (bit.ly/2DzCODp). See more retailers and current prices here: weighmyrack.com/Belay/wild-country-revo
Update: We just realized that this video says the wrong tech spec! The video mentions the stopping speed of the Revo is 2 m/s and it's actually 4m/s. We're adding an annotation to the video now. Sorry about that!
thanks for this video. I know a lot of people were asking several questions about this device and this seems to answer them all.
this device looks amazing and is truly pushing belay devices forward instead of relying on the same design as everyone else is doing.
I'm so impressed by this thing. I don't think I can resist.
Got mine on order so will get my Revo in the first shipment, have to say I am intrigued to see what this can offer the Solo climber and if it can be a replacement for the silent partner...
This is amazing. Thanks WeighMyRack for the detailed insights. I cant wait to see the device in action myself. I expect it to be by far the best belay device for gym climbing and single pitches next year and other companies will copy the principle the years after.
We totally agree! This device is revolutionary in more ways than one!
So many assisted brake belay devices to learn.... this one looks like it operates differently so I'd like to check it out.
Half a pound isn't TOO heavy for a gym / single pitch device. When Petzl is adding buttons, Trango has a lecture to explain how to use theirs and BD is just copying other companies; Edelrid and now Wild Country are the only two with truly innovative industry changing devices. Wild Country in particular has made a genius device for gym and single pitching. While Edelrid's Mega Jul is the most well rounded device and is insanely light weight for being so.
Don't mistake a lack of innovation being a bad thing. The GriGri is already a perfectly fine device and Petzl ironed out the major flaw (lack of anti panic system) and added a potentially nice feature to increase the comfort (lead/top button).
Innovation in itself is no way to describe quality. Trangos device is also innovation, but it simply seems to be no good.
Messiahs very true it is NOT the ONLY defining factor.
That said, climbing equipment in general doesn't see a lot of technical innovation. "If it ain't broke don't fix it." But climbing is also incredibly dangerous. Engineering and tech used to increase safety is always exciting to see.
Matt Nicassio I know the mega Jul is quite nice, but you have the risk of the device braking. What do you think of the click up and the Mammut smart? They also come in two rope versions and are way lighter than the revo.
Release Update: The Revo is now coming out in Winter 2017 (not summer). To guarantee perfect functionality with the widest spectrum of rope diameters, they're doing some design modifications that have delayed the process.
I am searching anywhere and most retailers say it will come April 2018
So, can the Revo be used for rope solo?
Can this device be used as main device for rope-solo climbing?
I want to see how it works when you belay on top!
can I preorder? :)
With the moving parts, how will it do after prolonged contact with rain, dust, sand and chalk?
That's a good question. Wild Country has spent a LOT of time on the development.
Just wondering about the self belay capabilities of this? Is it safer than Grigri, is it possible to catch an upside down fall? Not sure if any would know this, just a question.
I am pretty positive that it will catch an upside-down fall (unlike a grigri...). The working principle (centrifugal force brake) of the Revo is pretty similar to that of a silent partner which holds upside down falls. But the interior of the two devices is quite different. While the Silent partner's holding power comes mainly from the tightening up of the clove hitch (there are 3 rollers inside of a Silent Partner which stop the drum from spinning and therefore tighten up the clove hitch), the holding power of the Revo on the other hand is entirely based on the internal mechanisms. Apart from that the connection between the Carabiner and the Revo looks like a possible breaking point to me, especially if you crossload the connection. I would trust a Silent Partner way more than a Revo and a Revo more than a GriGri.
Nevertheless, I think that the Revo could be a really easy to use soloing device if you know what you are doing, got used to the device, prevent crossloading of the connection point and USE BACKUP KNOTS (as with any solo device unless your name is Pete Whittaker)
Hey Rob, Im wondering why you would trust this more than a grigri. I want to explore the option of this device for soloing as it seems incredibly better for paying out rope with one hand, but it seems way more succebtable to failure based on my limited knowledge
@@roblux1
Haven't tested but seems dangerous. 4m/s arrest speed means in many, many cases the climber can just hit the ground, at the "right" hands.
3:05 - "Coming to market in May 2017."
Current time: (almost) May 2018
Status on market: No Revo...
I want this thing.
The REVO was released into the states a few months ago and there were a few folks lucky enough to snag one. Unfortunately, it's backodered at the moment, but you can put in an order from REI: goo.gl/6h8wxb
quick question
with an atc, when a fall occurs, you pull down hard with your brake hand down
when catching a fall with the revo, and you do the same thing, would this disengage the auto locking feature, and then you would be catching them purely on the friction?
Yes :)
no the autolocking feature will still work as intended. If you pull down hard and the rope slips through your hand it will still autolock. Part of the video he shows if you are pulling the release mechanism, it will still lock when there is a fall.
The locking mechanism is dependent on fall speed, so if the person is falling faster than 2m/s it will lock no matter the status of the device it seems.
Any problems using this for abseiling/rappelling.... ?
No and Yes depending on your needs. The Revo will work for single rope rappelling (like simul-rapping) but this is not the standard rappel technique that is used with devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso, that hold two rope strands at a time.
Since single rope rappelling is more of an advanced technique the majority of climbers will not rappel with the Revo device and will instead be lowered-this is the same limitation as the Petzl GriGi.
When rappelling with the Revo, it will function very similarly to a single-strand tuber, like a Black Diamond ATC Sport but with the added safety of the locking mechanism if you were to lose control of the brake rope.
@@WeighMyRack Have you thought about making a revo doubled? Where you basically clone the inside so it can hold 2 ropes?
Any news on this product?
Samuel Paiement ???
What size rope does revo accommodate?
8.5 mm - 11 mm
God if this thing just had guide mode it would be perfect....
where is the Revo made?
The last we heard was that the Revo was being manufactured in Italy.
@@WeighMyRack thank you
Pro gear's ! We both need this ! Fast ' and accurate to stop the falling climber's ! On time's safe a life 's ! Get it and use to it ! Made in usa ! Leaders of the belay's device!!! Invitation to new and pro ' climbers
Hopefully it’s better than their
Wingman device. It’s so shitty that WC didn’t even do a video on their own product.
FWIW, Wild Country doesn't have videos for quite a few of their products. In general product videos cost a company anywhere from $500 (when done in-house, cutting every cost possible, and batching many products together) to $3000+ for a product video that includes in-action shots. It takes a lot of carabiners/belay devices to get those costs back.
245g oh no no no! tell me the reason why give up grigri2 for this. just so called revolutionary design?
50grams gonna kill you on single pitch/climbing gym sessions? how weak are you?
I know you're not climbing but please put a knot in the end!
i tested this once...almost broke my rope. i am not puting my life at risk by using this device
More details please!!!