Saving this to my DIY playlist so when I'm a multi-hundredaire in the distant future, I can afford to repair and mod my treasured game tech. Until then, I can dream and learn.
Thanks for the upload =] Looks like a strong alternative to the bennvenn IPS LCD. The screen looks way easier to align because of the clever bracket, and definitely more display options through the menu. The brightness wheel mod is heavier though, but i believe that's more than a fair trade.
@@RetroSix whats the deal with the three additional buttons in the kit? I see where they can be attached to the board, which says "left", "B" and "A" but whats the purpose of these? I cant seem to find any chatter about them on any install posts or videos. Thanks!!
preemptive apology for the gushing but just want to say I love your transparency as a business owner and sharing all of this vital information with all of us. I've become a massive fan of your content and you were a major help getting me to bring my gameboy color back to life. Needless to say I've become a massive fan for your "clean" products and am going to update my gameboy color with all clean mods.
Hi I have just received this Kit around Xmas and want to install it shortly. Thank you very much for the video. One question regarding the Backlight HV driver (in the video at 2:11): Please explain what I need to do here... without soldering? I did not get it 100%. Thanks again!
Remove the inductor that is where I point to if upgrading the screen. Otherwise you board still generates super high voltages for a non existent backlight tube
@@RetroSix I’m not certain to be honest, but when I was fitting the BennVenn one, it seems there’s a bunch of caveats about it. I was having issues with the backlight and there’s some issues around screen rolling due to it using lynx 1 vs lynx 2 bios.
@@RetroSix can drop mine in the post if you don’t have one, it’s got a BennVenn one in but hardwired to 100% brightness and scrolls the first few seconds on boot. I got frustrated and decided to play it how it is in the short term, until I have more time to mess with it.
@@RetroSix Awesome! I love your designs and the mostly simple installs. I’ve been wanting to do a screen upgrade on my Nomad for a while and the currently available options just seem hacky.
@@RetroSix thats some great news, because i just got my Sega Nomad, they are very hard to get in the Netherlands (had to import it from America, ebay). But i dont want to ruin it with this Oleg mod or the 20 dollar car screen. i want the best and easy screen replacement with OSD that you can access with buttons, and not that i have to add some special adjustment wheel by scraping the green of the motherboard or cutting traces (the Macho Nacho video), i dont need all the other stuff like USB chargers, batteries, all that stuff,,,, just a great screen like you guys made for the Game Gear that i own too. And if you at it perhaps a better sound mod (or speaker), but thats about it, want it keep it as original as possible but with the best possible clear pixel screen.
So far I’m loving this screen. Question though: if I have the brightness wheel in the maximum position is it normal for the Lynx to power on not on the brightest setting? After I power it on I have to move the brightness wheel a little bit to activate the brightest setting again.
Amazing, thank you Luke. Looks like I'll be getting this for my Lynx II. I already have your Cleanscreen IPS for my Game Gear
Just brought this kit from u yesterday .looking forward to fit it
I really look forward to the new bezels for the Lynx II’s. I’m going to need one of those!
Saving this to my DIY playlist so when I'm a multi-hundredaire in the distant future, I can afford to repair and mod my treasured game tech. Until then, I can dream and learn.
Thanks for the upload =] Looks like a strong alternative to the bennvenn IPS LCD. The screen looks way easier to align because of the clever bracket, and definitely more display options through the menu. The brightness wheel mod is heavier though, but i believe that's more than a fair trade.
I just received my clean screen to my Lynx I. I'm really excited to make it! Thank you for the video!
Do you have to solder it? Thanks
Lynx 2 no, Lynx 1 yes
@@RetroSix whats the deal with the three additional buttons in the kit? I see where they can be attached to the board, which says "left", "B" and "A" but whats the purpose of these? I cant seem to find any chatter about them on any install posts or videos. Thanks!!
@@timnmarylinder just helps debugging if your actual ribbon buttons don't work. Those are the buttons used to open OSD
@@RetroSix awesome, thanks for the fasy reply
Nice upgrade
Outstanding
preemptive apology for the gushing but just want to say I love your transparency as a business owner and sharing all of this vital information with all of us. I've become a massive fan of your content and you were a major help getting me to bring my gameboy color back to life. Needless to say I've become a massive fan for your "clean" products and am going to update my gameboy color with all clean mods.
Thanks. The support is much appreciated
Looking forward to the Atari Lynx 1 easy install ribbon :)
Nice 👍🏻
I did what you say in the video but when i turn off the lynx 2 I doesn’t turn back on what you think it is
I dont get full screen on lynx 1,black bar at bottom of screen
FFS i thought i was done spending on retro consoles this month
Hi I have just received this Kit around Xmas and want to install it shortly. Thank you very much for the video. One question regarding the Backlight HV driver (in the video at 2:11): Please explain what I need to do here... without soldering? I did not get it 100%. Thanks again!
Remove the inductor that is where I point to if upgrading the screen. Otherwise you board still generates super high voltages for a non existent backlight tube
any update on the ribbon for Lynx1? Looking to purchase one soon, if no ETA, i'll just buy V1
Nothing yet
Any issues with the C104129-001 boards? I’d love a clean juice with battery mod option for these.
What's different about the C104129 board? I'll test it but can't see any issues
@@RetroSix I’m not certain to be honest, but when I was fitting the BennVenn one, it seems there’s a bunch of caveats about it. I was having issues with the backlight and there’s some issues around screen rolling due to it using lynx 1 vs lynx 2 bios.
Could just be bugs how theirs is done. But if I get my hands on one I can confirm
@@RetroSix can drop mine in the post if you don’t have one, it’s got a BennVenn one in but hardwired to 100% brightness and scrolls the first few seconds on boot. I got frustrated and decided to play it how it is in the short term, until I have more time to mess with it.
Sure thing. Pop it in the post with note inside with details and return address and I'll get you a fully working CleanScreen installed too
I'm surprised you guys don't have anything for the Sega Nomad.
Upcoming
@@RetroSix Awesome! I love your designs and the mostly simple installs. I’ve been wanting to do a screen upgrade on my Nomad for a while and the currently available options just seem hacky.
@@RetroSix thats some great news, because i just got my Sega Nomad, they are very hard to get in the Netherlands (had to import it from America, ebay). But i dont want to ruin it with this Oleg mod or the 20 dollar car screen. i want the best and easy screen replacement with OSD that you can access with buttons, and not that i have to add some special adjustment wheel by scraping the green of the motherboard or cutting traces (the Macho Nacho video), i dont need all the other stuff like USB chargers, batteries, all that stuff,,,, just a great screen like you guys made for the Game Gear that i own too. And if you at it perhaps a better sound mod (or speaker), but thats about it, want it keep it as original as possible but with the best possible clear pixel screen.
So far I’m loving this screen. Question though: if I have the brightness wheel in the maximum position is it normal for the Lynx to power on not on the brightest setting? After I power it on I have to move the brightness wheel a little bit to activate the brightest setting again.
Sounds like just a dirty wheel. It is a direct connection to the backlight and it just passes through that wheel as resistance
@@RetroSix I’ll try giving it a clean thank you.