OFF GRID POWER - VEVOR 3500 Watt Pure SINE WAVE Inverter - 7000 Watt Peak - It's EXCELLENT!
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2023
- In this video I'll take a look at the Vevor 3500 Pure Sine Wave power inverter. It's great! Enjoy!!
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3500W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter: Provides 3500W continuous output power, 7000W surge power, and converts 12V DC to 120V AC. Our pure sine wave inverter features 4 AC outlets and one USB port, No Load Current: 0. 8 A, and Efficiency: 88%. Aluminum alloy shell resists heat, cold, and corrosion for consistent optimal performance.
Professional LCD & LED Indicators: LCD display shows input voltage, frequency, output voltage, battery power, product power, product waveform, and working status. LED Indicators facilitate the user to observe the pure sine wave inverter's working status promptly. Never miss a step.
Powerful Remote Control: This inverter pure sine wave comes with a high-quality plastic LCD remote controller, which is built tough to resist damage. It comes with a 9.8 ft, 3 m length cable, making it convenient for you to control the inverter from far away. Remote Controller Connection Type: 6P6C. 8 x 50A fuses and 2 x battery cables provided.
All-Around Security Protection: The true wave inverter applies multiple layers of protection to ensure the inverter is fully protected. Such as CE, FCC, RoHS, PSE Certification, overheat protection, over-load protection, etc. The temperature-controlled cooling fan rotates when the internal temperature reaches 113℉ 45℃. Noise: 20-40 dB.
Power Up Your Appliances: This RV inverter 12v to 120v is highly recommended for sensitive electronic equipment that requires cleaner AC power to operate effectively. Power your home appliances, power tools, and office supplies such as a refrigerator, microwave oven, laptop, etc.
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You can damage the battery or the inverter by making it spark while connecting. It is recommended to use a resistor between the battery and inverter before connecting. This will charge the capacitors and there will be zero spark. If you don’t have a resistor handy and most people don’t you can do what I did. Take a simple test light the kind that looks like an ice pick, and clip the alligator clip to the battery cable and touch the other end to the battery terminal. The bulb in the test light will illuminate and then go out indicating the capacitors are charged. This test light must have an incandescent bulb to work. Not an led.
Yes I use an old 21 watt car bulb in series to pre charge the capacitors.
Do you mean like a fuse
I bought one for a home solar system, works great and it sells for as low as $210 now. Buyer beware as many Asian brands advertised as pure sine wave but are actually modified sine wave.
You can make a connection with a big resistor between the cable and the battery terminal to charge the capacitors in the inverter without a big spark then make the final connection with the cable to the terminal to keep from blowing out the inverter.
Awesome review, thank you for helping me to move forward with my purchase!
The question is not can it run these loads. The question is how does the inverter hold if it runs heavy loads all day long.
This was a great review of a great product...... Thanks for sharing..... Better than the last one you had that started on fire...
i like the Vevor 3600 Watt CGI outlet version. I was very impressed with the demo i saw.
AMAZING-VEVOR HAS SOME GOOD STUFF/ THANKS MUCH
Nice review, thank you kindly for this upload.Your knowledge and overall rundown of this inverter will help me decide rather to purchase or not.
Keep informing the people...
I have a Tripp Lite 1250 watt inverter which is quite heavy compared to these newer units, why is that ? Is it less efficient or possibly better ? Thanks 👍
Good looking unit , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Thank you brotha! God bless you!!
Es buenazo para hacer la conexión con la batería.
I bought one of those things found it to be cross wired from factory did continuity test on the four out put receptacles and the neutral and hot were swapped on every other one of the 4 that can’t be good but the ground toned out fine this was also the case at the bottom contacts between the receptacles and the hard wire contacts below
I'm waiting for the video where JJ2K adapts a truck's ladder rack to his Monkey, mounts solar panels on top, inverters on the sides, Xmas lights, DC fridge..the works, and drives around town with that setup. Total Mad-Max style AZ hyperinflation-survival-bike.
I'm working on it... lol
Keep testing. Panel input,battery charge, current draw, please post, I’m setting up a new system for my enclosed trailer, real world data is the best.
I just found this video and it is very helpful.
I have a question about this inverter because I am hoping to buy one soon.
How long does it last with the amount of load that you put in it?
I appreciate your information.
How do you hardwire this unit the instructions do not give you wire color codes ?
did you hard wire it in the chinook or one of the outlets?
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, sweet review, I would like to have a temp on the cables, I would be installing larger ones for heavy loads, less voltage loss, I would also like to see the same display that is on the inverter to be also on the remote display, the little battery display is basically useless, having the volts and watts on the display would be a big bonus
What size is your air conditioning unit? Nice video.
You made a very good e
How much was it pulling while running the ac microwave and fridge
I just bought the 2500W and it won’t stop beeping. It has 1/0 wire and is reading 12v input but won’t give any output and beeping non stop.
I bought a VEVOR 24V/3500W inverter a couple of months ago. There are a few issues with it, 1) two of the outlets have hot and neutral inverted, two are right and two are backwards. 2) the cooling fan on my unit doesn't work properly, it makes a horrible buzzing sound when it tries to start at low speeds... and either doesn't spin or spins slowly and haltingly. Then it goes into overdrive and sounds like an airplane. Obviously a defective fan. I contacted VEVOR about this and they replied IT WAS NORMAL (anyone who has ever worked with cooling fans knows this is NOT normal) and 3) the terminal posts are M6 screws and are connected to the mainboard with 4x4mm2 wires, for a total of 16mm2 for each post. This is equivalent to 6 gauge wire, which is not enough for the amps this unit can pull from the battery bank. Overall it is a functional unit and these issues can be corrected, but VEVOR refused to help me with the fan, and that is a very bad sign from the company.
how many watts does one plug-in run up too?
Hi Sensei.
So that has 25 amp output?
That's bloody good if it's so.
Many thanks.
Not bad of a test only thing I seen was the voltage on the unit and remote did not match even with no load on that unit. With that big of a load I bet the battery will not last long but it do it.
So, how's the inverter holding up since you did this video? I'm thinking about getting one of these, or the 5000 watt version. It would've been nice to see the inverter display when you had your AC, microwave etc running at the same time to know the combined power draw and to know how much more you could turn on, if any at all.
Still running great!
Two things how do you change the fuses not in the manual…Second tell me next year if the display is still working…I’ve seen a lot of reviews on these things and apparently the display goes dim and unreadable. Have fun stay safe.
So, that battery sag (dropped to 11.?v while you had the big load) is potentially a problem.
Keep in mind this is a 12v DC input, so at full rated load, you're pulling almost 300A. For the peak 7000w, that would be about 700A spike! I'll bet almost anything that battery isn't rated for a 300A output. You see a flashing red warning light near the power light on the invert during these situations.
Best to have multiple batteries paralleled (3 or more) so that each battery isn't exceeding it's rated output. 4 or 5 if you expect the 7000w spikes to actually be a thing on your implementation. Those lithium batteries do have a surge/spike rating but you still need to allow enough head room on the batteries to handle that spike.
One big issue with this setup could be that parts may fail in the inverter if the input voltage is insufficient. With a lower voltage a FET may not turn on fully and therefore it generates massive heat and it burns out, and you have a dead inverter, because YOU didn't supply it enough DC power.
When paralleling batteries, the neatest solution is to run each battery positive to a honking big bus bar, and the same for the negatives (to a different bus bar) and then connect the inverter input to those bus bars. This ensures you have sufficient input and the inverter won't struggle to turn those FETs on, giving you safe operating conditions.
Also, "sine wave" inverter isn't specific enough. Insist on "Pure Sine Wave" inverters. Never go for the cheaper modified sine wave or something only labelled as "sine wave" (if your goal is clean power like you get from your utility grid in your house).
Excellent comment. Thank you so much!
🏆🏆🏆
Man I don't how in the world this video doesn't have more likes , I was on my way to spending an arm and leg on a ecoflow or blue etti , I'm going with this , what's the best way to solar charge these batteries.
Thank you, a good mppt charge controller will do the trick
Just checked on Amazon...it's out of stock.
It is unknown when more will be available.
But thanks, Sensei, I'm really, no REALLY, impressed with this bit of kit.
Shows in stock using link in description box!
im sorry if I am going "off grid" that is the last inverter i am going to rely on, I want a known good inverter that can run 24/7 and not fail in 2 years
Where goes the fuse that it comes with ? Manual doesnt say
One question...... could you hook up two inverters in series or parallel in a system?? or it's better to get a bigger wattage one to run?
I'd get a higher wattage inverter
@@jiujitsu2000 thank you
Always better to go bigger than you need & not run them so hard, it may have a higher idle draw but will handle inductive loads better, ie: motor starting, microwaves, coffee machines, etc.
How many watts solar do you use to charge and run your RV system?
I use 400 watts. I have videos on my solar and Chinook playlist
Very nice, but to buy it i need to sell my kidney first.
How much?
@@rheidtech
Under $300, so not bad for what you're getting.
Currently out of stock though😭😭😭😭
@@dandycat2204 out of kidneys? Wow. That sucks. Just wanted 1. Dont need it.. just prepping ya know. 😅
@@rheidtech
Are you sure, cos I do have a spare...it's yours for the bargain basement price of $500,000.
Barely used.
@@dandycat2204 yeah right...prolly used the piss out of it... ill be in touch. Lol.
I love this inverter, however..... How do I calculate how long I can run it? Battery "Ah capacity" as how it relates to load = time? I am obviously a newbie and need some help in the design.
Initially I bought a Ecoflow River 2 (300w) powered by Renogy 100w Solar panel to get started and want to eventually bump it up to 2000w+ for when I leave on my USA Ultimate road trip (Honda Odyssey build out).
I need to calculate total Ah needed to finalize the build out and see how it affects my budget on the battery costs.
I thank you in advance for your time and help on this matter....... (GRIN)
Great question. What's the amp hour of your battery? Take that number and multiply it by battery voltage. My setup for example. 300A x 12.8V = 3840 watt hours... then you take wattage draw... let's say its 1000 watts... divide watt hours by wattage draw... 3840 divided by 1000 = 3.84 hours... I usually round it down to the next number to stay conservative so it'll run for appropriately 3 hours safely...I hope this helps you!
@@jiujitsu2000 Thank you for the math. I do not have a battery yet, but this helps in finalizing LiFePo4 battery(s) selection. Thanks again!
@@tobyz.3452 you're welcome!
This video also has some good info www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTi_NQzU
@@tobyz.3452definitely go lifepo4 for this if it is in ur budget, but also remember to check on the battery BMS size for charging & discharging in particular as u will need to be able to supply 12v @ 250A-300A continuous output for 3000W-3500W, 12v & 200Amp Battery output will give you around 2500W. Hope this helps.
How much power does it use in standby mode?
Website claims less than 1amp. I just ordered one a few days ago and a 260ah battery for my truck.hopefully it will run a mig welder for offroad repairs.
Are you able to plug that into your home? Electricity one hundred ten volt circuit and power it off of that, instead of a battery I want to get the 48 V. Version so I'm sure I can hook the 48 V to my power box downstairs safely. And then I could run a Bitcoin miner. And make five thousand dollars every year
Everything in the video could probably read of the website and manual, useful video review of such product includes oscilloscope reading no load and underload, and proction testing to see if the claim in the manual stand true, otherwise this was a waste of time.
Where did you get the battery from?
Which one? I had 2 in this video. Both from Amazon
@JIUJITSU2000 the big one at the start of the video when you hooked up in the inverter
@@blakerogers407 this one can be found on Amazon. Link in this video... czcams.com/video/BBIhaqcMPG0/video.html
Only one 100AH batt?
Explains the voltage sag.
The main issue I see here is most 100AH batteries have a maximum continuous draw of 1250 Watts, and at that draw the battery will last 1 hour maximum. There's no way a 400 Watt solar is going to keep that battery from discharging so you are going to be "dead in the water" within one hour. So much for keeping cool in hot weather!
how many watts of solar would you imagine is needed in this case?
They don't usually spark if you leave them turned off during connection.
Nah, they pretty much always spark. Your on/off switch only isolates the output. The input will always charge the caps as soon as you connect it. Use something resistive (a 12v bulb, an actual resistor about 20ohm and 5-10w or even a graphite pencil led will work) It only takes 3-5 seconds and the caps will be charged enough that that inrush of current will be subdued enough that the cable touching the terminal won't spark. Also the caps should hold that charge for long enough that you don't have to rush to swap out the resistive item and get the cable to the terminal. Well over a minute or more, so don't stress and start rushing. Keep it slow and safe.
@@CollinBaillie I've always made sure that they were turned off and have had never had one to spark.
Great video I like to comment about using the test light so you don't get the spark too late for me for that 1. Also no one addresses the hardwire terminal box which 1 is the positive neutral and ground on it ? When they use a black yellow and red wire all known to be hot wires
Your cm to inches conversion is very wrong- 0.98 inches is 2.489 cm, NOT 9.5 cm. Just an honest mistake.
Buyer beware if you ever receive a bad unit take if from me VEVOR will leave you on your own and that's my personal experience with this company and they will give you the runaround. I am going to make a video showing what I got in the box.
LET'S SAY THE VIDEO WON'T BE A GOOD LOOK FOR THIS COMPANY.
BE VERY CAREFUL. these inverters blow up. I'm serious. a guy gave me this exact one and the company cut corners on diodes to protect the IGBTS and the failed causing the whole inverter to smoke up. sure it works good (I fixed it and tested it) its just it will blow up.
I'd be interested to know more about your setup. What sort of battery were you using?
@@CollinBaillie lifepo4s and Agms at 12v
Give it a year, a year and a half tops of continuous use, especially when powering inductive loads, and I can pretty much guarantee that you'll be sending this unit to a shop for repair. All high frequency, transformerless inverters on the market have a much higher, failure rate when compared to low frequency, transformer based inverters. The reason for this is that these cheap, lightweight inverters don't have an iron core, copper wound, iron core output transformer. And a 7,000 Watt surge capacity for a 3,500 Watt inverter is pretty wimpy when you consider that a low frequency inverter inverter offers a minimum surge capacity of 10,500 Watts. And you really ought to reconsider your claims about this product. This inverter is absolutely NOT certified for use with medical equipment. It's not even UL-1741 listed. If a patient is injured because of your recommendation that this inverter is suitable for use with medical equipment, you're probably going to find yourself in legal hot water.