Frogspawn Coral not opening. 🤔 (10g - 2/23/2020)🤔
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- čas přidán 22. 02. 2020
- Just when I thought I was becoming an Appropriate Reefer, I went ahead and did something like this. 😩So, the Frogspawn has not been happy in the 10g tank for a few weeks, I have a little free time this week so I decided to do a full spectrum test on the nano reef tank to see what's going on. Along the way, I seriously fudged it up.
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Music by: DJ Quads
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Instagram: @inappropriatereefer
Email: inappropriatereefer@gmail.com
Your the best man just showing your whole journey mistakes and learning I'm right at this point in the hobby making some fun dumb and costly errors but that's how you learn I guess. Still live going back to these old vids they are still relevant 🤙cheers
This is a great video showing what stops a tank in its tracks a year down the road
Hey man love your videos! I just wanted to make quick comment on salinity. I also used SG but got wild results. Turns out SG can be influenced by temp, time of day, and many other factors. I know SG is the hot thing to test but I recommend switching to PPT. There is nothing that affects it, your PPT is going to stay the same no matter temp, time of day or whatever. PPT is constant 👍
Take care of that gorgeous froggy! Salinity problems are too often overlooked when issues arise. Good Luck!
When i hear that background music it makes my day!!
i have hipargero too and for me the problem is the releasing of aluminum in the tank, in fact i put a plastic bag where the holder meets the water. Good luck
Gotta always float those salinity standards so they get up to temp! And if you can, calibrate the instrument with the bag in the water. Constant temp means more accurate calibration! 👍
Yes sir, I will try calibrating the checker again with the bag in the tank water. I did notice the temperature dropped a little while calibrating in the cup.
Wow I never knew this! Thank you for showing this. I always just used it at room temp!
Love the hickey. Great addition. 👍
Hi there!
Thanks for your videos and for making your problem finding and solving process public.
I am currently facing a similar issue with mine. Wondering what the ICP brought to light and whether you found the culprit yet?
All my water parameters i am monitoring are just spot on where i want them to be. Still they are not as puffy not as happy as when i got them.
Doing a ICP next as well.
Looking forward to hear from you.
I've definitely knocked some salt creep into my tank while doing maintenance but luckily I was able to suck it up quickly with my coral feeder lol
Love the videos
I actually just calibrated my Hannah Checker for the first time and hoping it continues to stay reliable. I have issues with my tanks getting to hot so the fact that it also has a temperature read out is a double win. However I've heard Dylan from Reef Dudes/one of his guest mention that you should run it on ppt because the temperature can affect the results on S.G. I'll have to rewatch it and make sure . I usually run Chemi Pure Elite carbon but it always takes 2 minutes to rinse it atleast, so when I rinsed it last week and nothing came off of it I thought I got a bad batch and just tossed it, gotta go the cheaper route sooner then later and just get a sock I can reuse like your doing. Good luck with the tank(s)
Interesting, I would have thought that the temperature compensation should work the same rather it's salinity or specific gravity. I'll double check, thanks for the idea!
Look closely on the meaty part of the heads. Could be flatworms.
I ALWAYS tell newcomers to the hobby who wanna mix to 1.026 to mix to .025 or .024 instead because it leaves that much more room for error when your salinity ends up raising. Good catch, man. Hanna products can be finnicky.
I spy those logitech Z2300 speakers on your desk. Those were the best speakers logitech ever created. Hopefully the ICP test comes back and gives you a better idea of whats going on so it can be fixed!
Go buy the coral life hydrometer! I had this same issue I have used many instruments Milwaukee, Hanna checker, manual refractometer, multiple hydrometers and in my experience everything has fluctuations but the coral life is rock solid! I now use the Hanna checker and back it up with the coral life hydrometer I always get a solid result. If I get anything weird from the Hanna my coral life hydrometer gives me a solid backup.
Check out the tropic marin floating hydrometer (not a swing-arm), when carefully cleaned and stored, you can't get better accuracy! and BRS sells it now :)
You put saltwater wet hanna checker in calibration solution without getting it dry. 👍
Hope this gets figured out man! Fingers crossed.
So funny... telegraham and I were talking about your frogspawn this morning. We were talking about lower par corals in high light and he said he thought you had yours under an XR30 in pretty high par at one time?
I done the same thing my ato line was to far in aio sump everytime I put my apex on feed mode the water would rise over my ato line and back siphon back in the 5gallon bucket happen so when I turn everything back on the sump runs dry the ato kicks on and all that water and kalk back in the tank smh live and learn the simple things 🙌🏾🙌🏾
Disclosure: I only had time to watch till 8 min mark. I had the same issue, per Hanna's responses on R2R: The Hanna Checker is a conductivity salinity checker, it is not impacted by dissolved organics like a refractometer is. So it is normal for it to read lower than a refractometer. (do a search for it on R2R). My Hanna usually reads 1.024 when the refractometer reads 1.026. So they must be treated as DIFFERENT measurements, conductivity SG and Refractometer SG. If your Hanna is reading 1.025 then I would expect your refractometer to read 1.027 or so. Therefore the problem is, if you are mixing salt to 1.025/6 on the Hanna, then it is going to be more saline than water mixed to 1.025/6 with the refractometer.
Seems like the older tool is easier and consistent
well the hanner checker is just measuring EC and not SG at all, it then uses a conversion table to calculate the SG, the refractometer is giving the actual SG and not a calculated SG from another value (like EC)...
Lots of things effect EC and this is why is is not a reliable measurement to calculate SG from.
A CZcamsr on here I think it's Nathan Willard had an issue and found his Hanna Checker was not giving accurate readings even after calibration.
I have to calibrate the Hannah checker pretty much every month if not sooner. I started noticing problems with it after my water kept testing off consistently. I am fairly disappointed with having to calibrate it too often. I'll probably go back to a refractometer.
So how’d it turn out? I can’t find a follow up video. I’m having the same problem
My frogspawn stayed pulled in, or closed up, until I got my P04 and N03 in balance. Now my N03 is 12ppm and P04 is 0.08. My frogspawn have never looked better. Just my experience.
how often do you change the water in the 10G tank?
I had my frogspawn mad and than I noticed red flatworms pulled a ton off of it and a day later the frogspawn was back to its normal self. They were hard to spot and pulled maybe 20-30 off the flesh.
What filter do you use while filming your fish tank?
I think you should move the light to the other side of the tank a little bit and lower the flow on the frogspawn in my experience frogspawn seams to do much better in lower light and flow areas
Buddy i always calibrate my tools with rodi water it might be off by a hair but that hair its off by is not gonna kill anything ...good luck
Try using Sl Aquas activated carbon. Each bag lasts 3-4 months. If im not mistaken its 20g carbon per 100L of water. Two of my lfs recommended it to me.
low ALK always made my frogspawn mad they liked it around 9.5dkh in my tank
Do a 100 percent water change a couple times. It'll fix anything with parameters that are off and reset parameters.
Im torn on whether if i wanna keep running gfo and carbon or switch to a diy cheato reactor. I just got back into the hobby after almost 10 years and been trying to get caught up on everything.
Who knew that the insane clown posse tests water
How do you have a ato On that tank and which one are you using. Could u please go over it and show how you have it hooked up please
BRS’ rox 8 carbon is great too.
Is there a local reef club you can join? I am being serious, because it may help with things. You work so hard on the tank, yet so many things go awry. Good luck and sorry that happened.
AlK seems low to me, if it’s around 6.5 I would definitely check PH.
Yes I feel its too low Alk should be 8.5 may be 9, that my be the problem.
I dropped salt creep into my tank by accident and it dropped onto my frogspawn melting it like a hot knife through butter so bad times. With a tank that size doing cup icp test seems like a waste of time as a large water change is easy and would make the test worthless or is that just me being negative soz
Did you get to the bottom of it? or make a follow up video? Thanks
I would slowly raise Kh to 8dkh and change the units on the Hanna salinity tester to ppt. I think it gives you a more precise reading with ppt. Isn't zero phosphates an issue with softies n lps? I don't know, but I've always heard they prefer to have something.
I'd be interested in knowing how your ICP test compares to your Hanna 774 for phosphate. I have heard and suspect that mine reads really high. I've seen posts where people would think their phosphates were as high as .05-.1, when an ICP test showed it near 0.
For salinity, you can't go wrong with the IO swing arm. I've always mixed a standard 35ppt solution to compare against and never had it fail me. I have a Milwaukee digital and handheld refractometer too, I don't trust either of them.
Let us no because mind did the same thing,never could figure out why!,
In may case everything was good, salinity, all the parameters very stable, I found that the RODI water TDS was super high, for some reason my filter fail , so I increased the filtration from 4 stages to 7 and 2 a week keep checking the tds and filters .. make sure your water is 100 quality to make your salt and for refills
What happened in the end? What was it?
I run mine at 1.024 and 76 deg corals seem to be doing much better now. Lower your water level abit so its not near the bracket
It’s most likely that aluminum , it’s deteriorating into the water ! The salt water is just helping it break down even faster
I'm scratching my head, really look forward to the ICP. I also have some polyfilter on the shelf and will likely throw some into the HOB as well just in case.
can share the ICP result? is it really because the aqua knight bracket releasing metal to the water?
The refractometer is the only accurate tool you have to measure the salt content, the other two are making calculations of the salinity based another measurement tracked against a conversion table (even the float hydrometer).
one of my frogspawn branch suddenly not open, but the other still open wide. do you know why it happend?
Is there an update video?
haha that ato problem happened to me a fewer times bc I messed with where I put my heater in my all in one tank and there was less blockage so the water level went down a ton so it kept pumping water into the display so it almost overflowed but it sucked the water to the rodi bucket thew the hose:/
6.5 dKh is pretty low. I personally like my No3 a little higher (I like the 10-20 region especially for LPS) Po4 at 0 on the ULR Hanna is not great and is in the dino area...... what about Ca and Mg?
#reefsquad
Hanna checkers are notorious for reading .001 to .002 off
Great content like always I just have a question I have 4 ppm nitrates and my phosphates are at 0.037 using Hanna Phosphorus ULR it’s that to high for phosphates
Don’t ask him, he’s not got a clue. 💭🤔
That’s a good value. You don’t want zero. It will cause nasty issues like the Cyano in his tank. Keep it under .1 tho in a young tank
So what was it.... no update?
Did you figure out the answer?
Always measure PPT because it is not affected by temperature. The water could be 60 or 90 and the measurement will be the same! That is why I always measure by PPT and not SG.
Do you do bubble scrubbing
I'd say it's your zero phosphates being your issue, lps like phosphates. I'm Going through the same with my hammers, I've been dosing phosphates for 2 weeks now every day trying to get to 0.1.
bearded-flipflop I’d agree
5ppm NO3 and .03-.05 PO4 is optimal in my tank
@@reefhomiejon9079 currently I'm 5-10 no3 and around 0.03. My lps were happy before but I never tested phosphates then so I dont know what level the were happy at. Sods law I only started testing when my sps were struggling.
My sps always do pretty good. 2 sps don’t like high phosphates but the rest don’t seem to care. My NITRATE was undetectable and my zoas started melting away. So now I try to keep that range to keep everybody happy
I had zero P04 for a while. Then, I'd get cyano outbreaks, gha, and my lps (especially my frogspawn) was always retracted. Now my P04 is at 0.08 and all of my corals have never looked better. P04 gets overlooked a lot.
@@Mr.McGurt I must agree my frogspawn look terrible, they are all retracted. I've even moved 1 to my other tank in the hope I can keep 1 alive.
If you have one watch, you know the time. If you have two watches, you're not sure.
Run a slice of poly filter. It will pull metals.
Alice Holbert true statement. The most underrated material in this hobby is polyfilter
Not sure it makes any difference if SG goes between 1024 and 10265 (usually the value on the calibration fluids). PPT from 30-36 probably also makes no differrnce.
I have the same light and the black coating on the mount came off within a few weeks so idk if the protective coating is doing its job.
Do you feel that it has affected your corals?
Inappropriate Reefer I really don’t know. I have 2 on a 40 gallon so it’s a bit more diluted than your tank. I can’t say I’ve seen any troubles with corals from it so far, and I’ve had it for about 6 months.
211th yeah
No hateful comments just trying to help out a fellow Reefer
following this might be one of the reasons my anemone and gsp not happy
Will report back!
@@InappropriateReefer What happened to the report lol
I'd do the old way taste it lol
Hi I think the reason why your coral is pissed off is because you keep putting random dirty stuff in your tank like all the plastic packages, bottles, including your own hands.
Ily ty for hinesty
* Hey man, just a wild guess. but, if you have aluminum in water and its changing color. could it be anodizing ? maybe check for electric current.
I hear people could stick their tongue in the water to check for this........
🤣🤣🤣👍🏻
Did you ever figure out the problem?
Can we get a new mochi?
Don’t blindly trust those electronics. Hanna handheld salinity checkers are crap at the time of this writing. Their base unit which is much more expensive, is better than even Milwaukee. It is very good, but still, nothing better than the prism handheld refractometer. The VEEGEE refractometer is the best for stability and is pro quality. The cheaper ones available everywhere drift too much. Use your handheld prism refractometer and calibrate it with 1.026 solution of natural seawater such as ‘accurasea’ solution, calibrate if needed, and test and it is what is correct.
6.5pH seems low brother...👊👍😎
I'd do it the old way taste it !
When your salinity is low just top off with saltwater.
Remember the salt you used , didt you say it may mess with certain electronic test kits ? 🤔 #justanidea
Mine is 0.027 dkh14. 5 calc 500 mag 1400 forget digital get a deep six and a refractometer and use reef pro salt with hi kh mag and calc buffed and stick to same salt... salinity 0.025 to 0.028 won't affect corals its the rest of the stuff kh and mag and calcium that matters
Rinsing test vials in the tank is not good practice.
Plz don't kill the epic frogspawn.
My bet is metal in tank from light.
In the middle in the front the small coral is too close to the hammer hammer sting other Corals including themselves do you have a chain reaction of a hammer coral stinging each other because one coral of a different species is too close to The hammer can get along with other hammers but not other varieties of Coral Besides toadstools
I was on the live stream 🤣👍
Such a small water volume just do a 100% water change 😅👌🏾💯
@@CJSAQUARIUMS 🤣🤣
Put plastic wrap over the metal bracket for now. Although I don’t think that’s the issue
Shouldn't you have rinsed the carbon with rodi water instead of tap water?
You know...
Too much gfo lowering po4 to non detectable levels will hurt your corals eventually... i have done this.. raising the po4 to detectable level is a good idea but do not expect an immediate rebound in any case.
Thanks, did your frogspawn look somewhat similar to how mine looks? Stubby?
Inappropriate Reefer it was a hammer coral and also I had some sps bleach as a result. I sent in a triton test and one of the possible causes for the results said possibly too much gfo.
0ppm of either NO3 and PO4 usually isn't good. Low Nutrients with High Alk has caused RTN for SPS IME.
My tank is only at .025 and the ocean is .026 and a half how your 1.026???
I had high aluminum in my tank. Triton recommends using Rowaphos to remove it. Try running that for a bit instead of GFO.
Isn't rowaphos GFO?
@@albertogutierrez512 It is, and other stuff that removes metal and I think silicates. that's why I said instead of GFO because then you'd be running 2 different forms of GFO.
Damn 5th
Re: your salinity testing. Interesting. I'm a retired biomedical engineer. When calibrating CO2 incubators and anaerobic chambers, I'd never, ever use an electronic measuring device. I used a 'Fyrite' device which used a red liquid and the principal of gas absorbtion and the STP law to indicate CO2 level. It's an old-school testing apparatus for checking furnace combustion efficiency. I also maintained refractometers made by American Optical, which were used to check urine specific gravity in newborns. They were pretty reliable in terms of calibration accuracy long-term. In terms of reliability and maybe even trust-worthyness, I'd rate them: 1) swing arm device, 2) refractometer, and lastly, 3) Hanna checker. lol
depends on FLOW how puffy they get more flow less puffy less flow .more puffy less flow
When u need to rise salinity, turn off your ato and it will increase by approx 0.001 daily thanks to evaporation. Too bad you make so many mistakes, not properly mixing salt (in a cup)? letting creeps burn your corals after adding... i guess the name of the channel is spot on
Guilty. Sometimes I don't think.
phosphate being 0 might be an issue
Separate different species of coral beside the hammers lower your flow just a hair the hammer should stretch out
i mean, lighting changed, right? i feel like its pretty much gotta be lighting...
Hmm, have not changed anything with the light, and I don't think LED's spectrum changes overtime like T5s... 🤔
@@InappropriateReefer that's the same fixture on the tank that was on the other tank before? If you have a par reading you could see what's it's working with? Hope they come back. Nothing like a fully open frogspawn!!