Nice job. I serviced my 2003t by a volvo penta marine dealer and it cost almost 3k. The oilcooler was completely rusted and not usable anymore. So a second hand one was installed. Happy that everything is working again
Hi Edwin, Ouch that's a big bill, V.P. parts are expensive though. There's quite a bit of difference between the 2003 and the 2003T. The 2003 doesn't have an oil cooler and the heat exchanger and exhaust bend is different too. At the moment my heat exchanger is not leaking, after all the trouble. But I have managed to buy a second hand one, which is wrapped up in plastic in a locker - just in case. Buying spare parts for these old engines is getting more difficult, but I've seen several complete engines on Ebay at reasonable prices. If I had the space, I'd buy a couple as spare parts. Glad to hear that it's all working again. More video's to come - subscribe to get notified - Best Wishes .... Dave
I converted the engine coolant exchanger and the oil exchanger from a volvo 2003t to more standard exchangers , very easy, and now the exchangers can be mounted away from the engine. Worked well. A replacement oil heat exchanger from Volvo was $2500.00. A good used exchanger from a resale shop was about 100, only need hose and hose clamps. Volvo has a goofy way of putting the coolant pipes into a bind, them bolting them. Enjoyed watching your quality work. I blame the leaks on Volvo engineers.
Thanks for that. I had already considered a remotely mounted heat exchanger, but soldiered on with the existing one. When you say a more standard exchanger, what is it? Maybe if I can't find a replacement I might have to resort to that. I agree, the original is not the cleverest design, especially when it's been apart a few times.. thanks again for your comment.. Best wishes .. Dave
@davesailing sure, Yanmar, Universal, even the Volkswagen rabbit diesel they call the Ranger uses a more standard exchanger, similar to the trans coolers and oil coolers, my perkins has one like that . Two hoses for rawwater in and out and two hoses for engine antifreeze. They can hang on a bulkhead or generally strapped to the engine or tranny with two large hose clamps. I do have a photo of the volvo i converted, but I dont know how to ship a picture on youtubeses? Im use a phone only, no home computer, im old i guess, my grandchildren help me with my phone from time to time. Good luck, ill look for more videos, ill subscribe now. 👍
@@davesailing all is well. At the end of our summer sailing season I had a number of major maintenance items to deal with including replacement of the head furling system. Old extrusions worn out and furling drum probably age of boat, 40 yrs. Our autumn has so far been characterised by almost no decent winds for sailing, a bit frustrating. But unlike you northerners we get to sail year round and winter often brings feisty westerlies. Look forward to your 2024 excursions etc. best, M
Interesting video, we have a Volvo 2003T. Slightly different layout as far as the heat exchanger, no slot where it attaches to the engine. But that makes it really difficult to mate all the pipes which are mostly push fit with those rubber seals. Plus the addition of the turbo cooling pipes. When I did my heat exchanger I used a plastic toilet brush holder ( a couple of quid from what was Wilko. Though other stores do them too. It was just big enough to fit the tubes in. I used a litre or so of white vinegar to cover the tubes and left it overnight. Most of the tubes were clean and I used a pipe cleaner to remove the stubborn bits in a couple of the tubes. We are in the Eclipse a few fingers up from you.
Bravo, this is exactly what I have been looking for! I have a VP 2002 also with the elbow and rubber hose at the raw water intake in place of the solid pipe from the raw water pump, and that's where it leaks. Fortunately for me I'm on fresh water so there's no corrosion to speak of. The yard wants to order new parts but it looks like all I need is a rebuild kit with the rubber parts and I can have a go at it.
Well you're the very person I made the video for :-) What happened on Zephyr IV was that that, because the way the pipe from the raw water pump vibrated about, it had changed the shape of the end of the copper pipe that goes into the end of the Heat Exchanger. It turned it into a bit of a cone. That just made the connection even more loose. I used the end of a rotating screwdriver to carefully force the end back out so the pipe end was straight. That tightened things up a bit. You mustn't go too far otherwise you'll not be able to get the end of the copper pipe fully into the hole. A new rubber O ring and plenty of Silicon Grease improved things. Finally holding the rubber pipe steady with cable ties cured it completely. It's quite disturbing to see how that rubber pipe moves around without the cable ties, especially with the engine at tick over. I have threated to make a proper bracket to hold the rubber pipe but the cable ties are working for now. In fact I'm happy to report that the last time I ran the engine for a good hour, the joints and the heat exchanger were quite dry. Good luck with it. The gasket set from Volvo Penta is eye watering expensive :-(
@@davesailing If you think the gasket kit is expensive, you should see the price of the parts they just imported from Sweden, I wonder if they flew them first class on KLM Royal Dutch! I just posted a video to my channel about the various leaky things on my boat, including the engine heat exchanger. If you just want to see about the heat exchanger, ffwd to 4:35: czcams.com/video/5XUemWdzLz0/video.html
@@AhoySkylark Well you've got exactly the same set up as mine except that the anti-syphon loop inculdes an additional pipe which feeds water out of a hole in the side of the hull to show that you have sea water circulating. Bit of a waste of time, I just look over the stern and check there's water coming out of the exhaust. I can see why your bill from Volvo Penta was high, those copper pipes are an arm and a leg expensive. But I'm it will solve your problem with the leaking joint. I'm not so sure about removing the syphon, but I'm no expert on that. I've had problems with the pressure water system too and in the end had to replace the pump. it's not been a problem since. I'd really worry about the pressured gas system just being mounted there in the locker. I use Calor Gas (butane mix) and the gas bottle(s) are housed in a seperate locker that vents over the side so If there's a leak at that end it can't leak into the bilge. But if you're going to remove it, not a problem I guess. Your engine looks nice and clean and I think you've got easier access than me. Mine starts instantly, despite being 30 years old. I treat it like a baby and change all the filters and the engine oil every year. I have a video about changing filters and bleeding etc. It's not hard, just potentially messy 🙂 Keep in touch, let me know how you get on with the heat exchanger changes. Best Wishes ... Dave
Thanks for posting the video, very helpful. My VP2002 heat exchanger raw water inlet (the one with the rubber hose) has been leaking for a while. The VP steel securing plate design is poor in my opinion. I have tried various remedies to resolve including zip ties with limited success. I finally designed a plate made from plastic flooring offcuts (the tough kind) with the inlet and outlet holes drilled out at 14mm and a 6mm hole for the securing stud. I used the service kit gasket as a template for where to drill. I dissected both 14mm holes to create a plate that holds 1/2 the circumference of each pipe which is an improvement on the VP design which hold less that a 1/4 of each pipe. Hope this makes sense.
Hi Russell, thanks for the comment. Using a piece of plastic is an excellent idea. It doesn't get hot enough to cause any problems and if there is a bit if a leak, it won't rust. Well done you :-) Best wishes Dave
I have the VP 2002 and went through this problem last summer. After a lot of effort to try to secure the press-fit copper piping to stop leaks, I gave up. Instead of using silicone grease, I used a little bit of RTV around each of the fittings. It remains flexible. It's water proof. No more leaks in my cooling system for $9! ....I know it's not how volvo wanted it, but it works great.
Hi Chris, I very nearly resorted to that. But, "the one last try" worked, so I left it alone. The problem is using the soft copper in an environment with lots of vibration, it changes the shape of the end of the pipe and then it doesn't seal. Well done for MAKING it work. Take care ... Dave
@@davesailing yes. I also wish the pipes were hose clamped hoses instead of press-fit pipe. It's hard to secure once after any deformation. I've thought about changing all of my pipes over to hoses....but it works for now, so I won't fix it.
Hi Bill, Well the heat exchanger has become a least favourite job of mine too :-) If I never have to touch one again I'd be a happy bunny. But you know how it is, having gone through the pain, I now know what to watch out for and a subtle modification will reduce the chances of any further leaks.. Enjoy your sailing.. Best Wishes - Dave
@@davesailing Just removed mine yesterday. Ordered the seals tonight. I have a 2002 myself. I am dreading putting it back. My boat has the motor shoehorned in.
Seriously glad I haven’t got a heat exchanger! Excellently presented as usual Dave! Hope you get out at Easter or soon thereafter and have the most superb and long season!
Hi Max. It's the first time I've had to tackle one. It's had a long hard life and some of the problems are the bodges perpetrated by previous engineers. Any way though it drips, it's only one every 15 mins, much much better than it was before I started. I'm planning to be down at Easter, might just get a little trip before she comes out of the water in April. Planning to get down to see you in the Summer !.. Dave
Thank you for the explanation. I have a question. If you have time, there are four places for the hoses, two in front, one from the top and another from the bottom.
If you take a look on the video I do explain what the four connections are at 0:32. The two larger diameter pipes, One at the top front and the other at the bottom rear are the engine coolant connections (Fresh Water). The Fresh water circulates in the space between the tubes and the outside wall of the barrel. The other two smaller diameter pipes feed sea water from the raw water pump through the internal pipes, where they cool the fresh water outside, and then to the exhaust L bend where the salt water mixes with the exhaust gasses and passes out of the exhaust at the rear of the boat. The clever bit is that by simple barriers at the ends of the barrel the sea water actually passes up and back 4 times before being ejected into the exhaust. I hope that helps ... Dave
Great video, I’m struggling with how the exchanger goes back together, watched the video close and am not seeing it? Do the 2 holes in the gasket line up with the 2 holes semi circles on heat exchanger? Pictures are at a premium on the internet. Any help appreciated!
Hi Colin, it's quite hard to show. I'm down on the boat at the moment so having to rely on my phone for everything. We're looking at the business end of the exchanger with the two connections for the sea water. If you look inside there is a divider that splits the exchanger in two halves. Then one of those halves is split into two. So you have two quarters and one half. The two holes in the gasket fit over the two quarters and in turn the holes in the end cap marry up with the holes in the gasket. What I hoped to show in the video was the flow of the seawater through the exchanger. It goes in through one of the quarters. The other end is divided in two and the water is sent back to the business end where it appears in the section that is half of the end of the exchanger. It is then sent back to the other end where it appears in the other half section and is then returned to the business end where it appears at the other quarter section and then out of the port and eventually to the exhaust. So the sea water makes 4 passes backwards and forwards through the exchanger. The fresh water coolant just flows from one end of the exchanger to the other, round the outside of the tubes that carry the seawater. I hope that helps... Best wishes Dave
I have a volvo 2003 t. It s evenmoe difficult than 2003 vith an oilcooler hidden behid the heat exchanger. It is made of aluminium copper and with saltwater in it has a tendency to coroode!
Unfortunately Penta's seem to have quite common problems on the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow, every owner i've known have had some sort of issue with them, not good considering their over exhaubatant spares pricing.
Hi Paul, the 2002, 2003 series seem to lack a little in the design stakes. They certainly don't like sitting around not being used. And yes the spare parts are ludicrously expensive. The Gasket set was over £40. £7.50 for a single rubber O ring. But it's what came with the boat and it starts on the button and runs well, just the bolt on stuff is a bit suspect. Good to hear from you, more videos to follow. Bets Wishes ... Dave
Thanks for the video Dave. I’ve got a leak coming from my heat exchanger and this was exactly what I came to CZcams hoping to see. I begin the removal tomorrow 🤞🏻. Cheers
@@ViewanAD Hi Mark, You're just the person that the video was aimed at :-). Good luck with the heat exchanger. I hope it goes well. Best wishes ... Dave
Hi Ben, yes the vibration rounds the end of the tube into a taper. I gently rotated the end of a screwdriver inside and coaxed it back into a straight end. Mine fitted better then and I cured the leak. I hope you get yours sorted out.. Best wishes... Dave
Nice job. I serviced my 2003t by a volvo penta marine dealer and it cost almost 3k. The oilcooler was completely rusted and not usable anymore. So a second hand one was installed. Happy that everything is working again
Hi Edwin, Ouch that's a big bill, V.P. parts are expensive though. There's quite a bit of difference between the 2003 and the 2003T. The 2003 doesn't have an oil cooler and the heat exchanger and exhaust bend is different too. At the moment my heat exchanger is not leaking, after all the trouble. But I have managed to buy a second hand one, which is wrapped up in plastic in a locker - just in case. Buying spare parts for these old engines is getting more difficult, but I've seen several complete engines on Ebay at reasonable prices. If I had the space, I'd buy a couple as spare parts. Glad to hear that it's all working again. More video's to come - subscribe to get notified - Best Wishes .... Dave
I converted the engine coolant exchanger and the oil exchanger from a volvo 2003t to more standard exchangers , very easy, and now the exchangers can be mounted away from the engine. Worked well. A replacement oil heat exchanger from Volvo was $2500.00.
A good used exchanger from a resale shop was about 100, only need hose and hose clamps. Volvo has a goofy way of putting the coolant pipes into a bind, them bolting them. Enjoyed watching your quality work. I blame the leaks on Volvo engineers.
Thanks for that. I had already considered a remotely mounted heat exchanger, but soldiered on with the existing one. When you say a more standard exchanger, what is it?
Maybe if I can't find a replacement I might have to resort to that. I agree, the original is not the cleverest design, especially when it's been apart a few times.. thanks again for your comment.. Best wishes .. Dave
@davesailing sure, Yanmar, Universal, even the Volkswagen rabbit diesel they call the Ranger uses a more standard exchanger, similar to the trans coolers and oil coolers, my perkins has one like that . Two hoses for rawwater in and out and two hoses for engine antifreeze. They can hang on a bulkhead or generally strapped to the engine or tranny with two large hose clamps.
I do have a photo of the volvo i converted, but I dont know how to ship a picture on youtubeses? Im use a phone only, no home computer, im old i guess, my grandchildren help me with my phone from time to time. Good luck, ill look for more videos, ill subscribe now. 👍
An excellent video, very useful if you are a VP owner. I am not but you still lots of good learnings from your experiences. Thank you. Best
Thank you Mark, I hope all is well with you... Best Wishes ... Dave
@@davesailing all is well. At the end of our summer sailing season I had a number of major maintenance items to deal with including replacement of the head furling system. Old extrusions worn out and furling drum probably age of boat, 40 yrs. Our autumn has so far been characterised by almost no decent winds for sailing, a bit frustrating. But unlike you northerners we get to sail year round and winter often brings feisty westerlies. Look forward to your 2024 excursions etc. best, M
Hi Mark, The furling gear does seem to have a life of around 30 - 40 years. I replaced mine a couple of years ago. It's so much easier to furl now :-)
Interesting video, we have a Volvo 2003T.
Slightly different layout as far as the heat exchanger, no slot where it attaches to the engine. But that makes it really difficult to mate all the pipes which are mostly push fit with those rubber seals. Plus the addition of the turbo cooling pipes.
When I did my heat exchanger I used a plastic toilet brush holder ( a couple of quid from what was Wilko. Though other stores do them too. It was just big enough to fit the tubes in. I used a litre or so of white vinegar to cover the tubes and left it overnight. Most of the tubes were clean and I used a pipe cleaner to remove the stubborn bits in a couple of the tubes.
We are in the Eclipse a few fingers up from you.
Bravo, this is exactly what I have been looking for! I have a VP 2002 also with the elbow and rubber hose at the raw water intake in place of the solid pipe from the raw water pump, and that's where it leaks. Fortunately for me I'm on fresh water so there's no corrosion to speak of. The yard wants to order new parts but it looks like all I need is a rebuild kit with the rubber parts and I can have a go at it.
Well you're the very person I made the video for :-) What happened on Zephyr IV was that that, because the way the pipe from the raw water pump vibrated about, it had changed the shape of the end of the copper pipe that goes into the end of the Heat Exchanger. It turned it into a bit of a cone. That just made the connection even more loose. I used the end of a rotating screwdriver to carefully force the end back out so the pipe end was straight. That tightened things up a bit. You mustn't go too far otherwise you'll not be able to get the end of the copper pipe fully into the hole. A new rubber O ring and plenty of Silicon Grease improved things. Finally holding the rubber pipe steady with cable ties cured it completely. It's quite disturbing to see how that rubber pipe moves around without the cable ties, especially with the engine at tick over.
I have threated to make a proper bracket to hold the rubber pipe but the cable ties are working for now. In fact I'm happy to report that the last time I ran the engine for a good hour, the joints and the heat exchanger were quite dry.
Good luck with it. The gasket set from Volvo Penta is eye watering expensive :-(
@@davesailing If you think the gasket kit is expensive, you should see the price of the parts they just imported from Sweden, I wonder if they flew them first class on KLM Royal Dutch!
I just posted a video to my channel about the various leaky things on my boat, including the engine heat exchanger. If you just want to see about the heat exchanger, ffwd to 4:35:
czcams.com/video/5XUemWdzLz0/video.html
@@AhoySkylark Well you've got exactly the same set up as mine except that the anti-syphon loop inculdes an additional pipe which feeds water out of a hole in the side of the hull to show that you have sea water circulating. Bit of a waste of time, I just look over the stern and check there's water coming out of the exhaust. I can see why your bill from Volvo Penta was high, those copper pipes are an arm and a leg expensive. But I'm it will solve your problem with the leaking joint. I'm not so sure about removing the syphon, but I'm no expert on that. I've had problems with the pressure water system too and in the end had to replace the pump. it's not been a problem since.
I'd really worry about the pressured gas system just being mounted there in the locker. I use Calor Gas (butane mix) and the gas bottle(s) are housed in a seperate locker that vents over the side so If there's a leak at that end it can't leak into the bilge. But if you're going to remove it, not a problem I guess. Your engine looks nice and clean and I think you've got easier access than me. Mine starts instantly, despite being 30 years old. I treat it like a baby and change all the filters and the engine oil every year. I have a video about changing filters and bleeding etc. It's not hard, just potentially messy 🙂
Keep in touch, let me know how you get on with the heat exchanger changes. Best Wishes ... Dave
Thanks for posting the video, very helpful. My VP2002 heat exchanger raw water inlet (the one with the rubber hose) has been leaking for a while. The VP steel securing plate design is poor in my opinion. I have tried various remedies to resolve including zip ties with limited success. I finally designed a plate made from plastic flooring offcuts (the tough kind) with the inlet and outlet holes drilled out at 14mm and a 6mm hole for the securing stud. I used the service kit gasket as a template for where to drill. I dissected both 14mm holes to create a plate that holds 1/2 the circumference of each pipe which is an improvement on the VP design which hold less that a 1/4 of each pipe. Hope this makes sense.
Hi Russell, thanks for the comment. Using a piece of plastic is an excellent idea. It doesn't get hot enough to cause any problems and if there is a bit if a leak, it won't rust. Well done you :-) Best wishes Dave
I have the VP 2002 and went through this problem last summer. After a lot of effort to try to secure the press-fit copper piping to stop leaks, I gave up. Instead of using silicone grease, I used a little bit of RTV around each of the fittings. It remains flexible. It's water proof. No more leaks in my cooling system for $9! ....I know it's not how volvo wanted it, but it works great.
Hi Chris, I very nearly resorted to that. But, "the one last try" worked, so I left it alone. The problem is using the soft copper in an environment with lots of vibration, it changes the shape of the end of the pipe and then it doesn't seal. Well done for MAKING it work. Take care ... Dave
@@davesailing yes. I also wish the pipes were hose clamped hoses instead of press-fit pipe. It's hard to secure once after any deformation. I've thought about changing all of my pipes over to hoses....but it works for now, so I won't fix it.
Thanks for sharing. Working on the heat exchanger is one of my least favorite tasks. Well done.
Hi Bill, Well the heat exchanger has become a least favourite job of mine too :-) If I never have to touch one again I'd be a happy bunny. But you know how it is, having gone through the pain, I now know what to watch out for and a subtle modification will reduce the chances of any further leaks.. Enjoy your sailing.. Best Wishes - Dave
@@davesailing Just removed mine yesterday. Ordered the seals tonight. I have a 2002 myself. I am dreading putting it back. My boat has the motor shoehorned in.
Seriously glad I haven’t got a heat exchanger! Excellently presented as usual Dave! Hope you get out at Easter or soon thereafter and have the most superb and long season!
Hi Max. It's the first time I've had to tackle one. It's had a long hard life and some of the problems are the bodges perpetrated by previous engineers. Any way though it drips, it's only one every 15 mins, much much better than it was before I started. I'm planning to be down at Easter, might just get a little trip before she comes out of the water in April. Planning to get down to see you in the Summer !.. Dave
Thank you. Very instructive. Happy sailing
You're very welcome, hope yours doesn't leak :-) Fair winds ... Dave
Have a great season Dave
Cheers
Chris
Thanks Chris, I looked to see if the models were sailing the other day and was surprised to see the lakes had been drained.. Take Care ... Dave
Try 20/21 Apl for DF65 class Nats. I'm doing event scoring.
Thank you for the explanation. I have a question. If you have time, there are four places for the hoses, two in front, one from the top and another from the bottom.
If you take a look on the video I do explain what the four connections are at 0:32. The two larger diameter pipes, One at the top front and the other at the bottom rear are the engine coolant connections (Fresh Water). The Fresh water circulates in the space between the tubes and the outside wall of the barrel. The other two smaller diameter pipes feed sea water from the raw water pump through the internal pipes, where they cool the fresh water outside, and then to the exhaust L bend where the salt water mixes with the exhaust gasses and passes out of the exhaust at the rear of the boat.
The clever bit is that by simple barriers at the ends of the barrel the sea water actually passes up and back 4 times before being ejected into the exhaust. I hope that helps ... Dave
@@davesailingthank you very much
Great video, I’m struggling with how the exchanger goes back together, watched the video close and am not seeing it? Do the 2 holes in the gasket line up with the 2 holes semi circles on heat exchanger? Pictures are at a premium on the internet. Any help appreciated!
Hi Colin, it's quite hard to show. I'm down on the boat at the moment so having to rely on my phone for everything.
We're looking at the business end of the exchanger with the two connections for the sea water. If you look inside there is a divider that splits the exchanger in two halves. Then one of those halves is split into two. So you have two quarters and one half. The two holes in the gasket fit over the two quarters and in turn the holes in the end cap marry up with the holes in the gasket.
What I hoped to show in the video was the flow of the seawater through the exchanger. It goes in through one of the quarters. The other end is divided in two and the water is sent back to the business end where it appears in the section that is half of the end of the exchanger. It is then sent back to the other end where it appears in the other half section and is then returned to the business end where it appears at the other quarter section and then out of the port and eventually to the exhaust. So the sea water makes 4 passes backwards and forwards through the exchanger. The fresh water coolant just flows from one end of the exchanger to the other, round the outside of the tubes that carry the seawater.
I hope that helps... Best wishes Dave
I have a volvo 2003 t. It s evenmoe difficult than 2003 vith an oilcooler hidden behid the heat exchanger. It is made of aluminium copper and with saltwater in it has a tendency to coroode!
You have my sympathy. The standard 2003 is bad enough.. thanks for watching and your comment. It is greatly appreciated. Best wishes Dave
Unfortunately Penta's seem to have quite common problems on the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow, every owner i've known have had some sort of issue with them, not good considering their over exhaubatant spares pricing.
Hi Paul, the 2002, 2003 series seem to lack a little in the design stakes. They certainly don't like sitting around not being used. And yes the spare parts are ludicrously expensive. The Gasket set was over £40. £7.50 for a single rubber O ring. But it's what came with the boat and it starts on the button and runs well, just the bolt on stuff is a bit suspect. Good to hear from you, more videos to follow. Bets Wishes ... Dave
Thanks for the video Dave. I’ve got a leak coming from my heat exchanger and this was exactly what I came to CZcams hoping to see. I begin the removal tomorrow 🤞🏻. Cheers
@@ViewanAD Hi Mark, You're just the person that the video was aimed at :-).
Good luck with the heat exchanger. I hope it goes well.
Best wishes ... Dave
I'm currently searching for broken impeller bits. The raw water copper pipe in has play in it when i out back together. It seems your pipe did too?
Hi Ben, yes the vibration rounds the end of the tube into a taper. I gently rotated the end of a screwdriver inside and coaxed it back into a straight end. Mine fitted better then and I cured the leak.
I hope you get yours sorted out.. Best wishes... Dave