Great job! I would just like to point out another issue with putting the post in concrete like a fence post. You have a lot of weight on a deck and the post can settle or slip through the concrete. To avoid that, either use a column base or you can put some lag bolts in the post sticking out to grab the concrete to keep the post from sliding down.
Nice deck, I actually built one for my daughter in 1998. It was 16’3” from the home and 16’ wide. The deck was all green, with 4…. 10” diameter concrete piers that were about 6’ high, and were 4’ in the ground (frost line is 42” here in the Chicago area). It is all 2x10’s and has a skirt all the way around to keep animals out. The deck has a staircase in the middle, and an escape hatch from a basement window. It is 26 years old and still in pretty good condition.
Looks very good. You took your time and paid good attention to detail. 2 minor criticisms/suggestions now that the work is done. :). First, never put wood into concrete, wood is a sponge. Pour foundation and use a bracket in between the concrete and wood beam, you be happier when it comes to replace. Second, use a joist sealing tape on joists, helps extend life of joists be preventing moisture from rotting them prematurely. Other than that, very well done.
I'm with ya on that, but our existing deck is just that and we're extending doing the post in concrete method. I'm gonna buy some wood sealant and hopefully that will help.
God bless you sir, i came here to see how to build a deck and you made it sound sooo simple, lol you just lost me with the numbers, but i continued to watch because you have a gift and your very good at it. I love to see people work there talent
Just fyi. I just replaced my 24 year old decking and railings which were mahogany 1x4, and white cedar log railings and balusters using stainless steel serrated nails. They lasted 24 years. Actually the decking could have made it another 5-10 years - mahogany is amazing if you want to stay with wood. I went to Trex and taped the tops of all the joists and blocking to prevent rot, since the PT joists are 24 years old and I need them to last another 24 years.
I'm ripping our old decking and railing out and bought Trex to replace it over the existing joists. The only thing I'm doing differently is how I'm doing my railing posts. I'm bolting my 4x4s to the joists. I just don't feel comfortable with the surface mount type. My deck is on the 2nd floor so it's a bigger drop. We are doing the foggy wharf and black railing so it will look very similar. Thanks for the vid.
Nicely done. Agree with the Copper Coat as I also used wood preservative as code calls for painting the cut ends of PT. Not everyone is aware of that. Nice job on explaining how you squared up the deck. That is something I wrestled with. I would've liked more detail on how you did the picture frame.
Nice job hermano. A clean classic design. You have a lot of land. I would have made it a few feet bigger, in order to fit a nice outdoor bar (for the cervezas). But it's a nice looking deck either way.
Interesting way you broke the Pythagorean theorem into ‘units’. Most people find it hard to understand a squared plus b squared equals c squared. So this is good way to look at it
Thank you for this step by step process and great photos. Something I recently learned is that treated wood drastically changed in 2004 and the 2x that you buy at Home Depot or Lowes is not rated for ground contact. Only the 4x4s are and even they are sketchy. Nothing like the treated prior to 2004. Posts in concrete wont pass inspection here anymore. Has to be on columns of concrete and anchored. Personally, I don't see the difference but it is what it is. One thing I missed in this video was how to anchor the posts on the deck. Could you explain that, please? All I see are the screws. I'm guessing that is good enough?
You should cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of your outer beam giving it a more finished look. start it about 5 inches down from the top of end. just a suggestion looking very good.
@@deborahsimmons3370 I’m sorry I cannot. Probably the most important thing is making sure you have enough posts and spaced properly. Every other way it’ll be easier since no ledger. My local zones didn’t allow freestanding, since house was built in the past 5 years.
It looks like your railing posts are half screwed just into the decking without any support under the decking attaching them to the frame... How solid is that?
So the camel clips in between the groove and there's no need to screw them from the top? I wish you had shown how the rail post went on? I can't tell how they went on, or do they just sit on top and screwed directly onto the deck? Most times I've seen the outer post act as a slave over wooden post.
Thanks. Just continue watching CZcams videos and learning. That's what I did and I'm very happy with the end result. It seemed insurmountable at first.
Tha was really nice to watch. Can you answer a few questions for me? I’m building a deck shortly for my home. I watched with closed captioning while my baby slept so please excuse any questions that may have been answered in the video audio. 1) what is the span from the house to the pillars? 2) why did you not need to use disposal bracing from ground level to the deck since it was pretty high? 3) why did you choose to tie it into the house instead of it being free floating? Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks. 1) 14' 2) Disposal bracing? My local code allows either sunk posts, which I did, or concrete piers with the posts on top. The 6" x 6" posts were to code. A good test was a foot of snow we just got and the deck supported it like a champ with no signs of stress. 3) My code had strict rules on free floating and I didn't want more posts in the ground since I store things under the deck. Good luck on your project!
@@michaelhutter9432 sorry, auto spell changed “diagonal” to “disposable”. I meant why does it not need diagonal supports? And is 14’ too far for just one support? I need to check my code here I guess because I too would like all that under deck storage.
Looks great job . I have couple questions because I am trying to understand little more about how you build that deck. Distance between the posts? Distance between posts and ledger board? Try getting to understand the code , in which state you build the deck ? Is the deck sharing a bit or no ? Joist size 2x8 or 2x10 ? This question are very important for me because i am planning to build my deck base on your video . Sorry for my English and I appreciate your responses .
I’m a contractor and from start you can use 4” lag bolts with a washer and alternate putting up ledger to the house. Didn’t need to put bolts in and waste your time brother.
@@markboczar2329 thanks for watching, yeah that’s something I probably should’ve done differently since I’m finishing my basement and if I ever need to take the ledger board off would be really difficult. That and putting in piers for the posts.
💥 9:10 Great job and video but that joist span from the ledger board on the house to the girder looks way too far to pass code in my area using a 2x10 joist.
Am I wrong, or aren’t you suppose to put the concrete in first let it fully dry, add a beam holder metal thing and then place the beam on top, in order to not have issues with the beams rotting; Correct me if I’m wrong
First of love the way the deck came out looks really nice , I do have a question though for your post how off from the edge of your deck do you place them at did you just leave like 1ft of over hang ?
Thanks! The 2' overhang was determined by my local county building department when I went through the permit process. Almost 3 years later, still rock solid!!
The ledger should be attached with spacers and tensioning bolts like the ones from Simpson Strongtie. The 4x4 posts are undersized for the load with people on the deck and there is no knee bracing for added strength and to avoid lateral movement. It really does not cost much more to have a stronger deck that will last longer.
I curious how does this deck looks like at the moment? I don't think the triple timber supports are enough for it, especially lean forward support isn't enough, that support could be at least T or U instead of an I . Other than that good job! if you can release a video of the current state, would help us to learn better what works what doesn't work. Cheers!
Great video, thank you. Is there any issue with there being no posts between the ledger board and the 3 posts you put in? Do you know if that's "to code" in most areas? Thanks so much
No issue with this design and layout. You can span joist a certain distance before the need additional support. The factors are wood species, lumber dimension and the spacing of the joists. He used Southern Pine (very appropriate wood), 2"x10" dimension, at 12" centers. This configuration can span from a ledger 16' 1" per the joist span table. In addition, he blocked in between the joists at mid span, which helps transfer the load from joist to joist. Overall, very solid deck. My only critique would be the support posts set in concrete. A preferred method would be to pour concrete footings, and use a Simpson Strong Tie 6"x6" stand-off base.
This must be in a southern location where winters aren’t severe. Posts need to be on top of sono tubes down at least 2-3 feet in the ground and stair landings need to be thick concrete slabs or a single piece of granite on compacted crushed stone to prevent movement from frost which can go 2-3 ft into the ground here up north.
The posts are "plumb", not level. The joists are level. Otherwise nice craftsmanship. Sloped concrete: a must. Wood treatment: same. Footings with post bases instead: yes but your way works with sloped concrete.
Thank you! Trex and most manufacturers make 2 types of deck boards, 1) those with edges grooved out where clips are used, and 2) boards with no grooves. The picture frame boards are no grooves and you must screw through the face. Some people countersink screws and use plugs, but mine aren't noticeable. good luck!
Looks great! Did you drill through the deck to secure those posts for the rail? Was it a kit? TREX sells a post kit. I want to do away with my wood deck and existing 4x4s. TREX the deck and use TREX posts and rail system. I would have less cuts by not reusing or replacing my 4x4 rails on the deck now.
Thank you. No it was not a kit. The rails are made by Forest. There’s a link in the description. The rail posts are rock solid using GRK fasteners, Rugged Structural Screws 5/16" x 4" driven into a combination of single or double blocking, rim joists, and joists. They are rock-solid but some people bolt posts down into the frame even more secure and then slide the aluminum railings over the wood posts. Depends on the brand. That method may have been tough for me to run the wiring for the lights. It’s been almost a year and everything is in great condition. My previous house I had a wood deck and I hated the maintenance. This Trex one is worth every penny. Good luck!
This deck looks extremely solid and awesome-looking, I am in process of building one myself 6.7 hight with flat ground 16x20 and attached 10x10 for Pergola it will be all free stand 12" in center with 3 beams. My question is I like to notch the first beam 6x6, 4 post using 2x10 using carriage bolts I will loss 3" in 5.5 posts don't you think in the long run it will weaken the post since I will have 2.5 inches of wood left. Thank you
I don't think it'll weaken it. I did two 2 x 12 beams. It sits on there and held together by carriage bolts. If you watch other videos, it's how most of the pros do it. Good luck!
Great job! I would just like to point out another issue with putting the post in concrete like a fence post. You have a lot of weight on a deck and the post can settle or slip through the concrete. To avoid that, either use a column base or you can put some lag bolts in the post sticking out to grab the concrete to keep the post from sliding down.
Nice deck, I actually built one for my daughter in 1998. It was 16’3” from the home and 16’ wide. The deck was all green, with 4…. 10” diameter concrete piers that were about 6’ high, and were 4’ in the ground (frost line is 42” here in the Chicago area). It is all 2x10’s and has a skirt all the way around to keep animals out. The deck has a staircase in the middle, and an escape hatch from a basement window. It is 26 years old and still in pretty good condition.
@@jimpie231 thanks for watching and sounds like you did a heckuva job on your daughters!
Looks very good. You took your time and paid good attention to detail. 2 minor criticisms/suggestions now that the work is done. :). First, never put wood into concrete, wood is a sponge. Pour foundation and use a bracket in between the concrete and wood beam, you be happier when it comes to replace. Second, use a joist sealing tape on joists, helps extend life of joists be preventing moisture from rotting them prematurely.
Other than that, very well done.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah those are two regrets and a future project for me to fix when the time comes!
I'm with ya on that, but our existing deck is just that and we're extending doing the post in concrete method. I'm gonna buy some wood sealant and hopefully that will help.
I agree. Never cement wood in a hole. Use the brackets to bolt the posting on the top of the cement pillars.
I can barely change my paper towel roll in my kitchen.
This looks great.
God bless you.
Haha thanks Josh. Good luck and let me know of any questions if you give it a try!
😂😂😂
Nice job!! Synthetic decking is the only way to go. No hassle maintenance, no bug damage and lasts forever.
That 3-4-5 trick is gonna save me a headache when I replace our deck next year. Thanks for that!
A SQUARED PLUS B SQUARED EQUALS C SQUARED.
This turned out awesome. They grey trex color looks really classy too.
God bless you sir, i came here to see how to build a deck and you made it sound sooo simple, lol you just lost me with the numbers, but i continued to watch because you have a gift and your very good at it. I love to see people work there talent
Thank you! That was used for figured a right angle. You can Google Pythagoreans theorem.
LOVE the light caps!!! The deck looks amazing.
Me too, the timer works great. Thank you, it was quite a project!
Best video for DIY that I have seen! Thanks for sharing, looks really nice!
Awesome video, not skipping on the hard parts. Very informative on what it takes
That's a nice deck! You and the family enjoy!!
Thanks Wiggles! 😁
Beautiful! I am doing my own 16 by 16 deck this summer, thanks for the video!
Dude, you did an AWESOME job for being solo.
Thanks. My only regret was not doing the posts in peers. I could always go back and fix it since I have access.
Just fyi. I just replaced my 24 year old decking and railings which were mahogany 1x4, and white cedar log railings and balusters using stainless steel serrated nails. They lasted 24 years. Actually the decking could have made it another 5-10 years - mahogany is amazing if you want to stay with wood. I went to Trex and taped the tops of all the joists and blocking to prevent rot, since the PT joists are 24 years old and I need them to last another 24 years.
Forms are a better support system than just wooden posts in the ground.
Just my opinion 👍🏽😎
Usually we send all the bolts in the other direction, do all of them then go inside with an impact driver nuts and washers.
Nice job. Ingenious working solo. 3yr old will be a helper soon
I'm ripping our old decking and railing out and bought Trex to replace it over the existing joists. The only thing I'm doing differently is how I'm doing my railing posts. I'm bolting my 4x4s to the joists. I just don't feel comfortable with the surface mount type. My deck is on the 2nd floor so it's a bigger drop. We are doing the foggy wharf and black railing so it will look very similar. Thanks for the vid.
you're welcome, good luck with your project!
Great video. Thanks for detailing and sharing the info. The deck looks fantastic.
Gorgeous. And solo act as well. Spectacular
Nicely done. Agree with the Copper Coat as I also used wood preservative as code calls for painting the cut ends of PT. Not everyone is aware of that. Nice job on explaining how you squared up the deck. That is something I wrestled with. I would've liked more detail on how you did the picture frame.
Thank you! Picture frame was 45 degree cuts. It looks good but mostly covered by the posts.
@@michaelhutter9432 f
Drop beams are my favorite and easiest way to support a deck
beautiful work brother
May of been a 1 man show, but atleast that man isn't broke 👍👍👍. Nice job on the deck and saving cash.
Thank you sir!
Nice job hermano. A clean classic design. You have a lot of land. I would have made it a few feet bigger, in order to fit a nice outdoor bar (for the cervezas). But it's a nice looking deck either way.
Great solo job sir and great finish work.
It was fun watching how it’s done. Job done well. 👍👍
Nice clean work. I just put my posts on a concrete footings. Too wet here in the PNW all our wood posts rot out in a few years
good job great dad awesome crew
I use tubes with brackets and would never put wood below grade. You will eventually replace those do to Wrought
my first thought.. GREAt Job! thanks for the vid
Interesting way you broke the Pythagorean theorem into ‘units’. Most people find it hard to understand a squared plus b squared equals c squared. So this is good way to look at it
Thank you for this step by step process and great photos. Something I recently learned is that treated wood drastically changed in 2004 and the 2x that you buy at Home Depot or Lowes is not rated for ground contact. Only the 4x4s are and even they are sketchy. Nothing like the treated prior to 2004. Posts in concrete wont pass inspection here anymore. Has to be on columns of concrete and anchored. Personally, I don't see the difference but it is what it is. One thing I missed in this video was how to anchor the posts on the deck. Could you explain that, please? All I see are the screws. I'm guessing that is good enough?
12:04 "I had to have a joint." O.K. whatever helps you get the job done!
This is very impressive... Wow!
Thanks!
Hey man this was a very good video , thorough and easy to follow !
You should cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of your outer beam giving it a more finished look. start it about 5 inches down from the top of end. just a suggestion looking very good.
Good idea, thanks for the tip!
Great job! Looks awesome! 👌👍👊🏻
You could paint the wood underneath black to match.
Looks great. You're hired !
Great your deck looks amazing..also great taste in music
Haha thanks!
Do u do or could u recommend unattached deck video?
@@deborahsimmons3370 I’m sorry I cannot. Probably the most important thing is making sure you have enough posts and spaced properly. Every other way it’ll be easier since no ledger. My local zones didn’t allow freestanding, since house was built in the past 5 years.
Nice video. What size/type of screws did you use to mount the Trex surface mount railing bases to the deck?
It's amazing how many out of work contractors come to these videos to correct shit like plumb vs level and comment on "wroughting" boards. lol
I know. thanks for watching! It was a fun project.
Wow, great job, it looks amazing!
Thank you!
It looks like your railing posts are half screwed just into the decking without any support under the decking attaching them to the frame... How solid is that?
That 3,4,5 units stuff had me so lost. I’ll need to research that. lol
Thank you for sharing. Great 👍 job
So the camel clips in between the groove and there's no need to screw them from the top?
I wish you had shown how the rail post went on? I can't tell how they went on, or do they just sit on top and screwed directly onto the deck? Most times I've seen the outer post act as a slave over wooden post.
Very nice job. Wish I knew how to rebuild my back deck.
Thanks. Just continue watching CZcams videos and learning. That's what I did and I'm very happy with the end result. It seemed insurmountable at first.
Looks great! About how much did it cost to do it? Rough guesstimate
Tha was really nice to watch. Can you answer a few questions for me? I’m building a deck shortly for my home. I watched with closed captioning while my baby slept so please excuse any questions that may have been answered in the video audio.
1) what is the span from the house to the pillars?
2) why did you not need to use disposal bracing from ground level to the deck since it was pretty high?
3) why did you choose to tie it into the house instead of it being free floating?
Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks. 1) 14' 2) Disposal bracing? My local code allows either sunk posts, which I did, or concrete piers with the posts on top. The 6" x 6" posts were to code. A good test was a foot of snow we just got and the deck supported it like a champ with no signs of stress. 3) My code had strict rules on free floating and I didn't want more posts in the ground since I store things under the deck. Good luck on your project!
@@michaelhutter9432 sorry, auto spell changed “diagonal” to “disposable”. I meant why does it not need diagonal supports? And is 14’ too far for just one support? I need to check my code here I guess because I too would like all that under deck storage.
Beautiful job
Looks great job .
I have couple questions because I am trying to understand little more about how you build that deck.
Distance between the posts?
Distance between posts and ledger board?
Try getting to understand the code , in which state you build the deck ?
Is the deck sharing a bit or no ?
Joist size 2x8 or 2x10 ?
This question are very important for me because i am planning to build my deck base on your video .
Sorry for my English and I appreciate your responses .
Beautiful deck, buddy.
Thank you! Let me know of any questions if you’re building.
I’m a contractor and from start you can use 4” lag bolts with a washer and alternate putting up ledger to the house. Didn’t need to put bolts in and waste your time brother.
@@markboczar2329 thanks for watching, yeah that’s something I probably should’ve done differently since I’m finishing my basement and if I ever need to take the ledger board off would be really difficult. That and putting in piers for the posts.
💥 9:10 Great job and video but that joist span from the ledger board on the house to the girder looks way too far to pass code in my area using a 2x10 joist.
Thanks! It’s just under 14’ which passes code here. What’s your code distance requirement and what city?
How steady are those metal rails? Does it wiggles when you shake them? It looks smaller. I rather have wood rails.
Very nice job!👍🏻
Am I wrong, or aren’t you suppose to put the concrete in first let it fully dry, add a beam holder metal thing and then place the beam on top, in order to not have issues with the beams rotting; Correct me if I’m wrong
You did such great job
Thank you sir, I appreciate the feedback!
Your project turned out very nice, is surely safe, and I’d let you build this at my house. With that said, it’s obvious you’re no carpenter. 😂
I understand why you didn’t film the facia install, but did you just screw straight in, or from the under/inside to hide the screw heads?
Straight in and they are flush. I think it looks great, you can get crazy and countersink them and put plugs in but that’s overkill.
@@michaelhutter9432 Man, can hardly notice. Looks amazing.
First of love the way the deck came out looks really nice , I do have a question though for your post how off from the edge of your deck do you place them at did you just leave like 1ft of over hang ?
Thanks! The 2' overhang was determined by my local county building department when I went through the permit process. Almost 3 years later, still rock solid!!
Great work, enjoyed the video. Did you decide to stain the posts to match? Awesome job
No but that’s a great idea I may do.
@@michaelhutter9432 Happy it may help, thanks for posting, was sitting around sick today (just a bad cold) and enjoyed the watch.
Great but wondering how the furniture will look in rain ☔️
What about cover?
Beautiful
Looks nice ! May I ask what railing you used & how the post fasten ?
Hadn't rained in weeks, it was just raining when u put flashing on
Excellent!
Nice job! 👍 Beautiful
Thank you!
Nice Job..... Looks great!!
Looks GGGGGGOOOOOOOOOOOOOODDDDD!!!!!
This has been helpful as I plan out our new deck, thank you! Are your footing posts that hold the joist 4x4 or 6x6?
You're welcome! They are 6x6.
Great job. Do you buy the picture
Frame boards without the grooves or do you rip one of the boards?
great job thanks for the video
Awesome Job, looks amazing.
Great job
Good explanation
The ledger should be attached with spacers and tensioning bolts like the ones from Simpson Strongtie. The 4x4 posts are undersized for the load with people on the deck and there is no knee bracing for added strength and to avoid lateral movement. It really does not cost much more to have a stronger deck that will last longer.
Thanks for watching I may add knee bracing. Why spacers and tensioning bolts? moisture is not an issue. Posts are 6x6.
I like Simpson Strongtie but not as much as they like themselves. Their prices are ridiculous.
Well done!
I curious how does this deck looks like at the moment? I don't think the triple timber supports are enough for it, especially lean forward support isn't enough, that support could be at least T or U instead of an I . Other than that good job! if you can release a video of the current state, would help us to learn better what works what doesn't work. Cheers!
Thanks for watching! The deck looks great, rock solid. I wish I could attach pictures. The triple timber supports exceed local code.
@@michaelhutter9432 Thanks for the reply, I'm glad all worked out great! that's practice wins the theory. Good job again!
Great job sir looks awesome! I am about to do my deck for my pool do you have any idea how many boards did you use ? Thank you
this is awesome
How has it held up against scratches? We are considering pulling the trigger on this same brand/color.
Great video, thank you. Is there any issue with there being no posts between the ledger board and the 3 posts you put in? Do you know if that's "to code" in most areas? Thanks so much
No issue with this design and layout. You can span joist a certain distance before the need additional support. The factors are wood species, lumber dimension and the spacing of the joists.
He used Southern Pine (very appropriate wood), 2"x10" dimension, at 12" centers. This configuration can span from a ledger 16' 1" per the joist span table. In addition, he blocked in between the joists at mid span, which helps transfer the load from joist to joist.
Overall, very solid deck. My only critique would be the support posts set in concrete. A preferred method would be to pour concrete footings, and use a Simpson Strong Tie 6"x6" stand-off base.
How did you hide the screws when you installed the "frame" deck pieces?
Great job!
Great job man. You did all that by yourself too salute. How did you learn how to do all this?
real nice..good job!
This must be in a southern location where winters aren’t severe. Posts need to be on top of sono tubes down at least 2-3 feet in the ground and stair landings need to be thick concrete slabs or a single piece of granite on compacted crushed stone to prevent movement from frost which can go 2-3 ft into the ground here up north.
The posts are "plumb", not level. The joists are level. Otherwise nice craftsmanship. Sloped concrete: a must. Wood treatment: same. Footings with post bases instead: yes but your way works with sloped concrete.
Did you keep the 4x4 leg posts the way they are or did you end up painting them to match your decking? I’m trying to decide what I’ll do.
Hi, I am trying to same thing you did. Can you confirm your entire deck with trex rocky harbor? Frame, deck boards , steps, and fascia ? Thanks
Yep. It’s all in the description. 😁
nice work
Nice job 👏.
Very nice!
How did you screw down the picture frame edge piece? Did you use the same hidden clips or just screw through the face of the trex. Looks great!
Thank you! Trex and most manufacturers make 2 types of deck boards, 1) those with edges grooved out where clips are used, and 2) boards with no grooves. The picture frame boards are no grooves and you must screw through the face. Some people countersink screws and use plugs, but mine aren't noticeable. good luck!
Looks great! Did you drill through the deck to secure those posts for the rail? Was it a kit? TREX sells a post kit. I want to do away with my wood deck and existing 4x4s. TREX the deck and use TREX posts and rail system. I would have less cuts by not reusing or replacing my 4x4 rails on the deck now.
Thank you. No it was not a kit. The rails are made by Forest. There’s a link in the description. The rail posts are rock solid using GRK fasteners, Rugged Structural Screws 5/16" x 4" driven into a combination of single or double blocking, rim joists, and joists. They are rock-solid but some people bolt posts down into the frame even more secure and then slide the aluminum railings over the wood posts. Depends on the brand. That method may have been tough for me to run the wiring for the lights.
It’s been almost a year and everything is in great condition. My previous house I had a wood deck and I hated the maintenance. This Trex one is worth every penny. Good luck!
This deck looks extremely solid and awesome-looking, I am in process of building one myself 6.7 hight with flat ground 16x20 and attached 10x10 for Pergola it will be all free stand 12" in center with 3 beams. My question is I like to notch the first beam 6x6, 4 post using 2x10 using carriage bolts I will loss 3" in 5.5 posts don't you think in the long run it will weaken the post since I will have 2.5 inches of wood left. Thank you
I don't think it'll weaken it. I did two 2 x 12 beams. It sits on there and held together by carriage bolts. If you watch other videos, it's how most of the pros do it. Good luck!
@@michaelhutter9432 Thank you kindly and I will go for it