LOOSE HEADSET??? - How to Identify the fine line between TOO LOOSE and PROPERTLY TENSIONED
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2021
- The bicycle headset. Getting it properly tensioned can be a guessing game as there is not a one-size-fits-all torque specification. Too tight can damage bearings and restrict control. Too loose can be downright dangerous from the get go! This video shows how to identify a headset that's right at the line of too lose. The point that's the most difficult to identify if you don't have experience working with or repairing bikes.
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a better way to check if the headset is properly tensioned is if the headset spacers can't be turned by hand but the steering column freely spins and isn't crunchy from the bearings. this only works if
1) you have headset spacers
2) those headset spacers aren't seized on the steerer tube
Great video. I was having a clicking noise in my stumpjumper headset that was driving me bonkers. This video saved me a trip to my bike shop.
Great explanation of how to check for proper tension of the headset. I learned the “technique” for checking years ago when I raced dirt bikes. Same principle, heavier frame and fork. Of course, way back then we had loose bearings which was a pain.
Super helpful video, thanks Kev!
Thanks, Kev. Always learning something new on your channel.
If you ride long enough you will learn how a loose headset feels.
Great video dude on headset 👍❤️🏴
Great. I will now try that on my dream bike which I bought recently :-)
Thanks for the video talking about headsets while jiggling around the fork, and the cool stories about the trail. Actual info would help though.
Good info 👍
If you heard a "click"... it was me subbing and liking!!!👍😎
No loose headset today🚴🙋
Still cant wait to see you venture into the world of Angle-Set headsets. Would love to see a super slack 65mm Ardor
When I brought my axum to the LBS with a budget judy headset they basically said the juday headset was trash because there was a tiny bit of play in the lower bearing. I don't know what they meant by that but doing similar tests I can feel the play very very slightly by doing the same tests done in this video.
I wonder if the _LEDGE X1_ will take a 160mm front fork... Could you try that similarly to the way you tried the oversized rear shock?
Can't wait for Stage 3! I just unboxed my new _LEDGE X1_ during lunch. I wasn't able to tune it yet but I'll finish adjusting it after work. I already own a DNM rear shock I pulled from my old _XR-PRO._ I will probably switch out the rear shock even before I first ride it.
any idea why my headset gets loose after 2 rides? I have to retight it every week. I use torque wrench to make use everything is torqued properly. I use loctite to make sure screws arent getting loose. I use anti slip paste for stem to make sure it stay in place. But it still gets loose after 2 rides.
This is great Kev! I would also like to know what you do to find out what parts fit your own bike? Where to measure what to measure etc. Aside from what links you leave something else always catches my eye. In either a different color or design material etc. But will it fit? I wanna know what you go off of so I find the right fit every time. Thanks! 👍
Im going to give you an example with bar and stems. The middle of the bar is where the clamp is which will likely be these days 22 31.8 or 35mm in dia. Bars all have the same dia at past the middle taper, so almost all brake levers, shifters, or anything you would want will fit. Stems are standard (these days) threadless at 1 1/8 inch. Unless you ride a Cannodale or new Canyon bike. For the most part you are looking at stuff like if it clamps somthing, measure the thing it clamps or the inside dia of the clamp. Suspension forks basically to measure go by: Axel to crown, Travel (can be -20 or +20 from stock), Tapered or not, and steerer length. Stanchion dia is not really as important as the others but most entry level fork are going to be 28mm on spring or 30mm on air. Which even bigger stanchions wouldn’t even assure more stiffness but no need to get into that. Technically you could put a long stem but really long bar, but have a terrible fit. There are a lot of bike fit videos on youtube but I would suggest to get a fit from a shop to see what in person they would recommend. Colors on anything would not make any difference if its still something like a 31.8. Different design just needs to be the same sizing spec which will usually be in the description. To find out what fits just see where the thing goes and go measure where it inserts, clamps, or screws into, or go online and see what part number (usually on the back of drivetrain parts). Which you can then figure out the sizing. On bottom brackets like square taper the manufacture will usually list it or email them. Hollowtech ii is different that uses a spacers for the different shell widths. Hope this helps though I am not Kev. Another great resource is R/bikewrench on reddit or search your question into google and see if theres an old forum with the same question thats been answered. Happy riding
Just noticed I have this exact slighty loose headset. Dam, so how much damage have I done? Would the frame and fork be damaged too? I just got the bike built last week and ha
ve only ridden it once on actual trail for about 2 hours. I did session some small drops though. I also did a lot of test climbs on pavement too. Hoping this wasnt long enough to do serious damage.
It’s so cool how you turn budget Walmart bikes into capable mountain bikes!
Hey Kev, any idea if/when Walmart will be getting more Ledge X1's in stock? They cancelled my first order and my second order is delayed.
Not sure, but hopefully soon
I'm in the same boat. Still waiting..... At least I've got the price down to $285.00
@@kev-reviews Thanks for the reply and all the great content you provide.
@@codyphillips48 hopefully we get them before you get that price to where Walmart owes you lol
@@joshuazech7342 they were extremely hesitant give me another 10% lol. But I'll be making another call to them soon. maybe I can't get it to 40% off...
Thanks again for the helpful video for a novice like me!! Off topic question. But since you've got a Schwinn Boundary I figure I'd ask because I can't find a definitive answer anywhere. I just bought a new Boundary and need to remove the freewheel so I can change rear wheels (Schwinn sent me a replacement rear wheel for a defective hub). I can't seem to figure out which freewheel tool I need to get to remove the freewheel. I don't want to risk using the wrong tool and damaging the freewheel or the new wheel when I re-install. I'm reviewing Park Tool's selection but unsure which one to use. I appreciate any feedback you have. Thanks so much!!
👍🏼 I use a Park Tool FR-1.3
@@kev-reviews thank you so very much ! I really appreciate it!
Judging bearing preload is still a dark art in spite of all the fancy new tools and app enabled gadgets.
Are you getting the vitus neuclues vr 27.5 its in stock in a medium and it has good features for 850 dollars including shipping
I don’t have plans to buy one, no. They’re welcome to send one and I’ll review it 😁
When will the project ardor vid come out? Really excited for it
⏰ soon 😁
Hey Kev, the bike looks sick.
Why are the cables so long ?
Can you do a video and show us how to trim the cables, cable guides, and the brake hoses ?
Because I used a pre-filled hydraulic set. The dropper cable could also be a hair shorter, but it doesn’t bother me. As much as I move and swap parts, I like to have flexibility to fit multiple platforms over a nicely tucked cable set
My general rule for working on any part of a bike as someone who doesn't own a torque wrench is tighten it too what feels right and then maybe just a tad extra
*except on headsets where the tad extra could present a problem.
@@kev-reviews and external bearing bbs!
You have a great night Kevin I got a busy day tomorrow I got my little infant being born tomorrow morning
I test for lose headset by standing over the bike, locking the front brake and then rocking the bike forward and backward. If there is any movement, it's too lose. If it is too tight it will be hard to turn.
Yes, that works. However, there is a fine point where there can still be play that won’t be easily discernable from fork flex (especially the lower end forks.) That is where this technique comes in handy for novice bike maintenance
That method works great for rigid forks, but as Kev said, suspension forks will always have a bit of play that can be hard to distinguish from the headset.
@@SonjaTheDork I've found you can feel the headset move and there is a slight clicking noise.
How is the mongoose rder coming along
👍🏼
@@kev-reviews I can't wait to see what it looks like and how it rides I'm still recovering a day told me on last Friday I have 10 more weeks before attempting to walk on it on the leg
Usual Kev, all about them clicks. 🤪
Ha!
What’s up with the cables ?!?
Even being just slightly too loose will probably destroy the bearings and races.
Eventually, yep. Hence the need to get it right.
Stage 3 coming?
Yes
I had a loose headset on one of my bikes for a while and it put chips in my steerer tube and took a jump and bent the steerer I couldn’t believe it TIGHTEN YOUR HEADSET IT BACKFIRES
First :)
When people will start to assemble their cockpit in right way?
Don't use anchors to load headset. Instead, use a rod with couple of shims and nuts.
Lose headsets suck