Our lifter went out on start up in a Chevy LSA ...shut off no damage... lucky... We put in Johnson lifters and I hope they last. We appreciate your video and explanation of the different style lifters.
The lub is not the problem for a new cam going flat. Take a new lifter wipe the bottom off drag your finger nail across it take a pencil and drag it across the lifter you can feel the file as it is filing the lead off of the pencil along with your finger nail. A ground surface is a poor finish. Now take a sheet of red crocus cloth and a old phone book or soft back book `put the sheet down face up. Now take the lifter an rub it in all directions tilting it as you go (a lifter is crowned) until it is smooth like a piece of glass now run your pencil across it it is now longer a file and will not file your cam lobes down, a new lifter is a file. Without doing this what happens is after a cam is run softly for a while, (without polishing the lifter) it finally wears the grind marks off off of the lifer. If you are running real heavy springs a lot of racers will pull the inner spring out to cut the pressure on the cam lobes. When resizing con rods leave the bore 2/10 under sizer wrap crocus cloth around the mandrel then do the pencil and `finger nail test, now you will not have bearing material transfering and killing the oil clearance. Think about this crank shafts are polished after grinding. Me, a long time machinist in large machine shop doing ship repair, paper mill, mining equipment, saw mill, and a GT1 road racer driving a Camaro . This something I have just kept to myself over the years. Have fun, Don
I guess doing a low buck build as most of us do something like this is out of budget. David V dose a lot of nice budget builds for the average hot roder.
Our lifter went out on start up in a Chevy LSA ...shut off no damage... lucky... We put in Johnson lifters and I hope they last. We appreciate your video and explanation of the different style lifters.
A larger diameter roller wheel will also spin slower. Less wear and heat.
Thanks for explaining all this stuff. Once you're done with pushrod stuff, I'd love to hear your thoughts on OHC valvetrain stuff.
Top information, thanks.
The lub is not the problem for a new cam going flat. Take a new lifter wipe the bottom off drag your finger nail across it take a pencil and drag it across the lifter you can feel the file as it is filing the lead off of the pencil along with your finger nail. A ground surface is a poor finish. Now take a sheet of red crocus cloth and a old phone book or soft back book `put the sheet down face up. Now take the lifter an rub it in all directions tilting it as you go (a lifter is crowned) until it is smooth like a piece of glass now run your pencil across it it is now longer a file and will not file your cam lobes down, a new lifter is a file. Without doing this what happens is after a cam is run softly for a while, (without polishing the lifter) it finally wears the grind marks off off of the lifer. If you are running real heavy springs a lot of racers will pull the inner spring out to cut the pressure on the cam lobes. When resizing con rods leave the bore 2/10 under sizer wrap crocus cloth around the mandrel then do the pencil and `finger nail test, now you will not have bearing material transfering and killing the oil clearance. Think about this crank shafts are polished after grinding. Me, a long time machinist in large machine shop doing ship repair, paper mill, mining equipment, saw mill, and a GT1 road racer driving a Camaro . This something I have just kept to myself over the years. Have fun, Don
Good stuff as always. (1st too!)
I guess doing a low buck build as most of us do something like this is out of budget. David V dose a lot of nice budget builds for the average hot roder.