I like David as he explains everything so well making it a lot easier to do for us beginners, even the frame would be quite simple for us to make at home, great video.
Great presentation. I’ve seen playing cards used as spacers.
Beautifully done I’m going to give it a try. Thank you for the tutorial
Just getting back into painting and recently admired the application of floating frames. Thank you for a thorough & professional assembly procedure video. Tips & tricks appreciated. Love the felt bumpers , gum tape finishing touches. Curious why not cut your foam spacers so you can flip the canvas and screw together in one step rather than awkward under side screwing with chance of screwing on an angle? Plus it's dual handling. Fear of art face damage? Like air blower tip for that!
Beautiful
Great Vid. THX
Thanks for this info. Would you plz share any tips for raising the canvas to be flush with the frame, in the case when the rabbet of the frame is slightly deeper than the canvas depth …
Thank you for your instruction on the floating frame method. I recently purchased a painting/print in South America where the artwork is on a very thin leather. When I got home (USA) I took the piece in to have it stretched so I could frame it. I was told by the store stretching the piece that if I enclosed the back it would be more suscseptible to mold or mildew. Listening to your comments in this video, you say the back should be enclosed - now I'm confused. Any ideas?
Hi Clarence. There are always different opinions when framing items on stretcher bars. The stretcher has a small bevel or gap between the canvas and the timber and this gap can trap dust. The dust builds up over time which increases the surface area and this section is susceptible to mold growth over time. We usually put a backing on the works to keep dust off the backing and to also keep insects out that can damage the back of pictures also. Sometimes it is recommended to have ventilation holes and again these can be covered with a screen to prevent insects getting in. Everything depends on how much protection you want to give to a picture coupled with where it is going to hang or be displayed. For the serious collector there are resources like handling guidelines from the Metropolitan Museum of Art or other sources of authority. We seal the backing but then have small bump-ons to allow air circulation which helps prevent mould.
Is the frame wood or plastic? My frame is plastic. Can I drill through the plastic? If not what should I do?
Where do you get the L-shaped frame pieces used for the floating frame? Are they pre-assembled?
Most picture framing suppliers have a range of "floater"frames as lengths of material that can be cut to size or supplied as chop frames. We usually cut and join the floater frames after we've stretched the canvas so the correct spacing can be achieved. If you need help and are in Brisbane please pop into Fix-a-Frame and we can show you the styles we have available. If you can't find a pre-assembled L section you can join two flat pieces of timber together to get the same effect. Best regards, David Schummy
Why did you only put the round felt pieces on the lower corners of the finished frame, and not on the upper corners?
The felt on the bottom corners are there because the frame hangs on an angle and the bottom touches the wall without the bumpers. The bumpers help prevent mold growing on the back because air can freely circulate behind the picture. If you are going to hang the picture flush on the wall you can put bumpers in each corner including the top.
Would you enclose the back of a panel like you would canvas as well?
Yes we tend to use a foamboard dust cover that covers the back of the stretcher. We attach this to the stretcher assembling in the floater frame.
I'm interested in a floater frame for multiple stretched canvas pieces (four 8x10s) in the same frame. Any videos addressing that concept?
We have demonstrated some multiple panels inside both floater frames and regular frames inside the framer's club which is a private training area.
@Endurart. Did you build that frame? Is there a vid?
I built that frame in our workshop at Fix-a-Frame in Brisbane. Are you interested in how to make the profile or the joinery aspect? There are a few videos of similar constructions I made for the framer's club members. If you let me know which aspect you are most interested in I can let you know what is available and if there isn't specific content available I can pop your request on the list for a future broadcast. Kind regards, David Schummy
@@Endurart Hi. Im interested in the profile, it looks like it's one piece, not joined from the pic before the vid starts. Also, is there a coating of some type on that? Thanks
@@richard_red_64 It is made from two flat pieces with the vertical piece running all the way to the back edge. The coating is a black composition like a synthetic gesso but you can use any good sanding sealer and paint accordingly. It is sealed all round to help prevent any warping over time.
43 mins!!!! tutorial and the video still seems have skipped some parts. Anyway thank you for sharing.
Imagine the people that actually send in this kind of painting for framing. Guessing they have pitbulls, drink Fosters and smoke camel inside the house. #art connoisseur
Who knows? We don't judge the clients who get custom frames made for their pictures. It is funny to think that only a very small percentage of the population might ever get a frame made for them and then to narrow it down to a Camel smoking, Fosters drinking, pitbull owner...wow they would be a very rare individual! Far more likely to be a middle-aged, tertiary-educated female, whose kids go to private schools, who owns their own home and drives a luxury SUV. I guess we were lucky they chose us to frame their picture.
A lot of impotent stuff was skipped. The video seems not a useful. The painting is beautiful though.
The nicest framing I have ever seen. 😃