Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency. The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied. Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
You know, the funniest things about these restoration videos is either its not really broken its just hardened mud or those are 2 different bikes because the chain stay is higher than the previous one it turned from External to Internal and no you cant simply drill a hole into a frame and make it into an internal, and how a frame using a 26” suddenly switched to 700c-25”
It's not an m5 s-works, but it is the same frame. Internal works with just holes if you run outer cable all the way through. And 700c will fit in the majority of 26" frames no problem. All that's needed is a brake calliper with a suitable drop. The spray job is pretty tidy for rattle cans. Nice job really. Would I ride it, no. Do I think it was worth the effort, not really. But if he's happy with the end result, then kudos to him.
I dont think you understand nor have you done a restoration because 1. External > Internal isnt as easy as cake you have to insert whats called a routing and it has to be precise these cannot be done by just anybody and takes either the manufacturing themselves or top of the line mechanics because its the same how you cant just turn a rim frame to a post mount disc frame 2.the routing holes are precisely placed and done no signs of it being cut, damaged, nor touched and it wasnt showed it suddenly appeared as the video went on 3. Rust isnt a magical piece of dirt you can remove its decayed metal the one used in the video is WD-40 and WD-40 doesnt take it off like poof it eats the metal and the frame is untouched (rust takes over 37% of the frame in the video and the rust fails to look natural) 4. Damage in the video he does sever changes and vigorous tactics such as hammering it down to remove the headset in the video it looks perfectly fine but in reality it should been dented heavily or cracked seeing that the M5 is an old and thin bicycle 5. Accept reality 97% of restoration videos are cap and thats a fact each and every one of these videos are cap and only a small amount of 3% remains to be real restoring
@Eobard_Thawne. This is exciting, where to start. I understand fairly well, having spent 20 years as a professional cycle mechanic, shop manager, and ultimately training mechanics for a large chain of retailers. As I said previously; internal cable routing can be achieved easily, if not correctly, by simply drilling holes and running outer cable for the full run. Many steel frames in the 80s and 90s achieved internal brake cable routing this way. If the old cable is pulled out without a follower it was a proper pain threading a new one through. What are you wittering on about rust for? The frame shown is an aluminiun alloy frame, with no apparent signs of any corrosion. Aluminium corrodes, steel rusts. His method of removing the headset cups is indeed wildly incorrect, or "sever changes and vigorous" ??? as you put it. But given a modicum of skill or hand eye coordination, there is no reason it should leave the frame "dented and cracked". The M5 tubeset was thin, in places. The headtube was, by necessity, one of the thickest walled tubes on the frame. On a par with the bottom bracket shell at close to 4mm thick. I do not need to accept that 97% of these videos are "cap" (????). Apparently, you know this to be a "fact". Like the old, but very true joke about how, "up to 97% of all statistics are made up on the spot". I am sorry, but you are mostly talking out of your arse about a subject you know little about. "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing"
@@theflow5269 oh boy, how fascinating now i will admit i made a bit of mistakes in my reply but im telling you right now that a frame that thin made of steel probably and it wont go away without a dent from the actions showed in the video and how the chain stay and seat stay got higher with the top tube and bottom bracket having a change and yes im not certain with 97% but it is true that most restorations are staged
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
so road bike brakes will work on a 700c wheel even though the bike was originally a 26er? I've been wanting to do an m2 to gravel, but I didn't think the brakes would work!
Gravel bike? Edit: Actually I gave it a little more thought, without the suspension de BB would lower a bit and make the head tube angle steeper, maybe not a road race bike geometry, but certainly not a MTB either.
@@hsanper If you like it and ride it - it’s a great bike for sure. There’s nothing wrong with building unusual custom setups, it just have a MTB geometry, that was my point.
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame. I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting. I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays. The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike. I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
Probably one of the best frame paintign videos on here - well done !
Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Nice to see that bike is getting a new life and not ending up in a landfill.
26" to 700 28 wheel. Nice restoration
Wah suhu ini mah..
Bukan kaleng2 lagi👍👍
에스웍에 투어니 변속기 생각도 못했다 ㅎㅎ 자전거 색깔은 죽여주네요
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
Bro the result is stunning, don't listen to the people critics. I really enjoyed watching the video, hope that u will do others like this one
I have some Shimano RSX components from 1997 , new old stock made in Japan . These perform very well for the money .
Ang galing, may idea na ako sa gagawin ko sa mtb frame ko
Really cool, congratulations on a wicked restoration!
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency.
The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied.
Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
Holy shit you're right! Will be like riding an elastic band 😂
That’s a sick spray can paint job. Looks professional. Great edit and hard work on the restoration paid off nicely
Thanks 👍 glad you enjoyed it
Beautiful transformation on that bicycle 😊
Grande Manolo grande, un verdadero placer poder acompañarte en estas aventuras, gracias
This guy deserves more subs 😅😅
Excelente vídeo parabéns. Qual intervalo de demãos de tinta? E você sabe dizer a medida da rosca da gancheira do câmbio traseiro?
I like and am grateful to see you cleaning the bicycle v brake adapter, it looks easy and the results are smooth
It always turns out great with roosters in the background...
Superb. An amazing refurbishment. I like your taste in colours too. Well done!
Amazing build!
You know, the funniest things about these restoration videos is either its not really broken its just hardened mud or those are 2 different bikes because the chain stay is higher than the previous one it turned from External to Internal and no you cant simply drill a hole into a frame and make it into an internal, and how a frame using a 26” suddenly switched to 700c-25”
It's not an m5 s-works, but it is the same frame. Internal works with just holes if you run outer cable all the way through. And 700c will fit in the majority of 26" frames no problem. All that's needed is a brake calliper with a suitable drop. The spray job is pretty tidy for rattle cans. Nice job really. Would I ride it, no. Do I think it was worth the effort, not really. But if he's happy with the end result, then kudos to him.
I dont think you understand nor have you done a restoration because
1. External > Internal isnt as easy as cake you have to insert whats called a routing and it has to be precise these cannot be done by just anybody and takes either the manufacturing themselves or top of the line mechanics because its the same how you cant just turn a rim frame to a post mount disc frame
2.the routing holes are precisely placed and done no signs of it being cut, damaged, nor touched and it wasnt showed it suddenly appeared as the video went on
3. Rust isnt a magical piece of dirt you can remove its decayed metal the one used in the video is WD-40 and WD-40 doesnt take it off like poof it eats the metal and the frame is untouched (rust takes over 37% of the frame in the video and the rust fails to look natural)
4. Damage in the video he does sever changes and vigorous tactics such as hammering it down to remove the headset in the video it looks perfectly fine but in reality it should been dented heavily or cracked seeing that the M5 is an old and thin bicycle
5. Accept reality 97% of restoration videos are cap and thats a fact each and every one of these videos are cap and only a small amount of 3% remains to be real restoring
@Eobard_Thawne.
This is exciting, where to start.
I understand fairly well, having spent 20 years as a professional cycle mechanic, shop manager, and ultimately training mechanics for a large chain of retailers.
As I said previously; internal cable routing can be achieved easily, if not correctly, by simply drilling holes and running outer cable for the full run. Many steel frames in the 80s and 90s achieved internal brake cable routing this way. If the old cable is pulled out without a follower it was a proper pain threading a new one through.
What are you wittering on about rust for? The frame shown is an aluminiun alloy frame, with no apparent signs of any corrosion. Aluminium corrodes, steel rusts.
His method of removing the headset cups is indeed wildly incorrect, or "sever changes and vigorous" ??? as you put it. But given a modicum of skill or hand eye coordination, there is no reason it should leave the frame "dented and cracked". The M5 tubeset was thin, in places. The headtube was, by necessity, one of the thickest walled tubes on the frame. On a par with the bottom bracket shell at close to 4mm thick.
I do not need to accept that 97% of these videos are "cap" (????). Apparently, you know this to be a "fact". Like the old, but very true joke about how, "up to 97% of all statistics are made up on the spot".
I am sorry, but you are mostly talking out of your arse about a subject you know little about. "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing"
@@theflow5269 I second this
@@theflow5269 oh boy, how fascinating now i will admit i made a bit of mistakes in my reply but im telling you right now that a frame that thin made of steel probably and it wont go away without a dent from the actions showed in the video and how the chain stay and seat stay got higher with the top tube and bottom bracket having a change and yes im not certain with 97% but it is true that most restorations are staged
That is gorgeous!!
looks like new, great work!
Amazing work. Well done.
Congratulations, now it is absolutely amazing again 👏👏👏
To bude radosti pro malého cyklistu 👌, moc pěkná práce.
Skvělý počin.
Amazing transformation!
bro created a new definition for beauty
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
3:15
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
Thanks sa pag SHARE lodz
Thanks for the video this is actually what im founding
This is literally therapeutic
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
Te quedó brutal compa
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Yeah, really early MTBs would work much better for this!
paint job is tooop notch, you can upgrade components later if you feel like to
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
Sensah ignite ipapares mo sa 7 speed cogs,?? Ok naman ba shifting.,?
-Мама, я хочу S-WORKS!
-Но у нас есть дома S-WORKS не хуже
S-WORKS дома:
My right index finger started hurting just watching him do all that spray painting. 😂
Awesome work!
Has the frame been baked after painting?
Mantap om..
Kreatif bgt
Good job idol sana all,
Nice job, well done!
Good Work...compliments!!
Sigue así adelante mano tienes talento me encantó
Die Geometrie wirkt etwas merkwürdig weil es eigentlich ein Mountainbike Rahmen ist, aber schick ist es trotzdem.
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
Yes i convert it into Roadbike, former 26er to 700ctires
Muito bom!!! Parabéns!!! 👏👏👏
My favorite part is how you turned grey walls into the grass and trees
Quedó hermosa esa bicicleta
The guy who had put a spacer under that stem on the initial setup is a criminal
Magaan lang po ba ang rim na Ragusa?
Truly amazing work
Great job men 👍. Craftmanship. This road bike deserves ultegra configuration.
Yeah but soon if i have an extra money then i will upgrade it, tnx
good job man
Where did you buy the stickers?
What paint remover did you use?
Ano po brand and number ng red spray na gamit mo sir
Brilliant work....
What year is this mtb?
Excelente trabalho parabens 👏👏👏👏
so road bike brakes will work on a 700c wheel even though the bike was originally a 26er? I've been wanting to do an m2 to gravel, but I didn't think the brakes would work!
Bike still has the MTB geometry with little BB drop and high trail.
Gravel bike?
Edit: Actually I gave it a little more thought, without the suspension de BB would lower a bit and make the head tube angle steeper, maybe not a road race bike geometry, but certainly not a MTB either.
@@hsanper
If you like it and ride it - it’s a great bike for sure.
There’s nothing wrong with building unusual custom setups, it just have a MTB geometry, that was my point.
@@RomanArzumanyan 100%... it was collecting dust and now is a usable bike.
An S-works with Tourney group set? I guess the standards were low back then.
and alloy frame? it's an old specialized MTT cameo with s-works paint or sticker
4:49 specialized don't use vinyl stickers
You did well, bro! 🎉
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame.
I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
I do small holes for internal cable and i removed the external cable holders, but I didn’t included in the video
For real... Why using such a good frame with that cheap groupset? Better 9 or 10 Speed sensah or ltwoo would do the job.
Wow beautiful one ❤
Espectacular 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Tska lods pwede ba diyan 3 speed sa unahan?
Nice work!
эти ваши видео, как медитация. Очень удобно под них засыпать =)
Lovely, except for that negative rise stem on top of all those spacers.
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting.
I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays.
The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike.
I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
How much money do you spend for all of parts?
Great job Boss
what size crankset ?
It's Beatiful But the Amount of Hardwork and the Money can get you a better Roadbike
Excellent...🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Very nice mate
beautiful
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
He used stripsol to remove the paint
@@yuki....Thanks. It's rather difficult I could find & buy that Stripsol in my country, or Amazon could send it free of taxes.
Impressive, Nice work !!
Thanks a lot!
👍👏👏👏👏 belíssima bike
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
Very impressive
What was the solution to remove paint?
Why is it on Tourney?
I suggest you change the stem with the short one.
Nicely done~
where did you bought the s-works frame sticker?
I bought it into online shopping sir
great work
How much did you spend on this? I want to try.
AWESOME JOB INDEED
You are the beast 🎉
Good job sir
Só esse quadro sworks vale uma nota irmão
nice prank for that s-works