How to Fix Heater Vent Clip for 1987 S10 1st Gen S10 Boxy Style
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2017
- Go to about 6min in video and you can see the 2 nuts and the cotter pin. Hard to get it in there but very worth it.
Finally had a free kid night if you know what I mean and was able to get back on the s10 on a cool night and not a hotter than hell night.
I was able to get the pedals back on and the big metal mount for the gas and clutch pedal. Had to get a new clutch master cylinder since the screw hole got striped and it would no longer thread.
The big improvement was fixing the stupid vent for the floor on the defroster vents. I used a cotter pin and 2x 10-24 nuts and in the middle was the cotter pin. In the video you can see it testing and working many times over without failing or breaking. A long time ago I did a zip tie fix video which worked a little bit but eventually failed and broke.
The hvac defrost vent piece was replaced from a junk s15 gmc truck. I cleaned it out as best as I could. Some of them the front panel actually comes off so you can clean even more and give you some freedom on doing the cotter pin fix that I did. Or it would be very hard with it on the truck already. I would have to remove all I did just for the stupid vent to function correctly. I have no clue why chevy put a plastic clip that connects 2 metal pieces.
Please enjoy and I hope this helps you out. I know anybody that has the boxy style gen 1 s10, gmc, blazer, ect will have this problem - Hry
thanks for taking the time to make this video. will help me in the future.
Working on my 91 now. Thanks for the help, bro
Glad this helped out. Dug into many old s10's in the junk yard and all of the clips broke since old broken plastic. Thought of this way and I'm sure there is another way, but this way works fine.
Thanks for the video!! Great tips
Glad the video was able to help you.
Thank You Again for this video, I need to get my box to be nice like yours.
Mr. Paley yes. it was gross man. moldy smelly gross. I used weather stripping from at hardware store. get the wide stuff put on both sides.
barry k. Will do. Thanks so much. Can't wait to see if mine is worse than yours.
You can remove the bottom vent that is right by the shifter if it is a standard and have to use a phone with the light on of course to get a good picture of what it looks like. It is very hard. I mean very hard to get your hands in there without taking it all apart like I did. If you do take the dash off. The hot/cold manual lever can get pent so be careful when taking that off. I remove the vacuum hoses like in the video from the connector. You don't need to take off that connector to the HVAC control piece. With the vacuum hoses unplugged you got plenty of slack. That is the hardest part about the dash and then you are free. If you do remove the defrost vent you have to remove the damn steering column mount. Which might involve the brake booster if you have one or the bolts are under the hood. But that is the only way to take off that stupid vent without smashing it into pieces which I wanted to do a few times. Some of those parts can be unscrewed ONLY at the vent flapper area but with that you can clean it up big time and spend lots of time cleaning it up.
I was going to put together a video but it wouldn't be very good but it would be me talking with good shots on how to do most of it.
totally unrelated but you saved my ass, that metal flat rod that is just behind that round orange thing at 44 seconds I couldnt figure how in the hell to get it back on. vids on the S10 in this dept are so rare I was about to give up until I saw it in place with this vid
Oh yeah that is on the hvac controls. I never took that apart hell no. I have one of those laying around. When I was at the pull it yard I took a ton of stuff since its so expensive and hard to find. The heater plastic piece always breaks off. Glad this video helped! Give me a sub if you can! Trying to get 1k and get famous.
@@barrysauce haha for sure man
@berryk. My 89 is doing the same thing. I need to use my camera to see if the actuator is actually working or not like you did. Is the stock clip mount no longer available?
Its Barry not Berry. Yes they do not make them you can go to a junk yard and you will break the clip taking it out or putting it back in. The clip is plastic and going to move 2 pieces of metal. Don't know why they did that. I used what I explained in the video a cotter pin and a few small nuts and it has never failed me again.
@@barrysauce Ten4. my bad on the name.
@@Fentertainment it's all good man I don't remember what size I think I just kind of I had the whole thing taken apart and I brought the actual part into home Depot or Lowe's and I found a cotter pin and then a nut you just have to look at the video man honestly I can't remember exactly but I know a cotter pin goes right through it and then you bend those little pins out but then on the other side I used to nut. you shouldn't have to take the entire - apart like I did but getting down there especially if you have a standard transmission is tricky you can take the bottom vent out and then you can see the flapper I'm sure you've done that already though and then you'll see the hole it's out there it's difficult you can do the zip tie fix they won't take that will last very long though since it will break
@@barrysauce ive got the bottom vent out and can feel its not connected. Im actually in the truck right now taking the cover off to be able to access it from the pass side. I watched your other video as well with the size of the nut on the vacuum actuator and will get that tomorrow. What did you use to clean the old blend door foam off? Did you say a tooth brush or a small metal wire brush?
I might go a head and replace the heater core while im in there as well. Looks to be just 2 straps holding it in from the inside.
Barry k, I have a 94 s10 blazer with a cpi 4.3l. I have an issue with mine abd I'm hoping you can help! When I'm running Heat or AC doesn't matter which, but when driving it seems like the blender door or something is moving the air from vent to defrost. When I let off the gas the air will start flowing back out of the vents. And the setting will be on "Vent". Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video also!
I am unfamiliar with the body style but I would check the blend door actuator. The newer body style is completely different. This video is for the 1st gen s10 and any other truck or blazer it may or may not apply to. I would start with the blend door actuator and see if it is actually working and moving the door.
@@barrysauce ok that's what I was thinking about too. And it's just like yours. It's the last year they made the square body s10 blazers
@@dexman7785 body style is similar but the blend doors look to be different.
@@barrysauce ohh ok. I gotcha now. Thanks for all of info man. I greatly appreciate it.
Awesome! How long did it take you to remove the dash? How hard was it to remove it? I’ve been wanting to do the same on mine because my blend door doesn’t seem to be working either but I don’t know how long this will take. I can only work on it on the weekend since it’s my daily
There are the 4 small screws at the top of the dash where the defroster vents are. There are 4 bigger bolts on the bottom. 1 in each side passenger and driver and 1 right next to the gauge cluster as I recall and 1 next to the shifter on the passenger side. You have to take off the hvac controller and the heater cable to control the thermostat always breaks. That is the hardest part. To make that easier you can take notes and pictures of how the vacuum hoses are connected to give more slack on the other side and pull it out like that so you don't have to undo how I did in the video. The steering wheel will need to be unbolted from the mount and can rest on the seat and that will be enough to remove the dash. Take off all plastic parts you can and label since you are in a time crunch. Inside a 2 car garage plenty of room. 1 Car it is pretty tight to take the dash out. Try and clean and vacuum the dust and sand that will collect. Also watch how the stereo is and behind it there is the main vent with the vent. You might need new weather stripping to go over there and seal it since it is probably bad and rotted. You might be able to unscew the bottom heater part and reach up and use a cotter pin and a screw. Even some bailing wire woud work. Chevy does NOT make a replacement screw/clip that is plastic to fix it. I used a cotter pin and some small nuts and it has never had any issues. Metal on metal and a plastic part that is brittle and 30 years old never lasts. I hope this helps.
I dont understand or am I missing something 😕 what did he do to fix this issue? What did he fix or what parts did he replace? I'm lost..
I used a cotter pin that was big enough to go on the long screw and used 2 nuts to secure the cotter pin and I bent the cotter pin through the other metal piece so it wouldn't ever come out.
What size nut did you use on the actuator screw?
That information is in the description
I have an early S10 as well, mine is 2.8 4x4 . . am trying to figure out how to repair/restore the damn thing (AC vents, mechanisms etc ) my A/C switch is fvked as well. . . . hey a question, how did you clean the parts and mechanism? It does look clean. . greetings
I took the entire thing apart. In my other video the steering column is taken apart. The only way to remove that stupid defroster vent was to remove the entire dash and the steering column. I was over my head at a few points but I got it all back together. Only thing I need to do is to make the dimmer switch wire longer. Anyway I took all parts off and I wen to u pull it a lot and I used some parts from a junk s10 and cleaned the parts up with 409 and soapy water. I submerged the parts in a tub or sink if possible. It was very dirty and smelled bad. I hosed off the vent tubes too with soapy water and used a tooth brush or anything I could use to clean it up. Going out to a yard to find parts is a good idea might get lucky on finding some parts in good shape. The lower heater vent I used a long machine screw and used two bolts and a cotter pin. No issues still and it works fine. Don't bother trying to save that 30 year old plastic part and it will break right away anyway.
@@barrysauce It all makes sense, that´s what I thought, that it had been dirty due to so many years. That is why I was surprised when i saw it was very clean. Mine is that way too, and I suppose, in order to clean it thoroughly I will need to tear it apart, which is costly timewise and labor-wise. I´m thinking with an air compressor and a siphon type tip and a water bottle you could spray some soapy water and knock down lots of dirt. Thanks for your explanation and congrats for the achievement 👍
@@jeffokriya3389 good luck. The firewall padding on mine was smelly so no other option but to take it all apart. Way very clean. Got the interior redone too. Looks great. Missing a V8 and then it be great.
@@barrysauce thanks for your wish. It´s a small truck for a v8 ha ha . . I mean anything is possible but it´s too much power, you could go off the cliff with so much power 🤪. . the 2.8 V6 is a very strong engine, economic at the same time. . right now an old mechanic is rebuilding the engine . . with this gas prices a small engine is a blessing . . I will possibly include an HHO generator, it does positively save fuel and increases HP´s . . .Regards
Do you recall how the solenoid/actuator is removed I can’t seem to find a damn socket that’ll fit it and I broke off the plastic tab that holds it (the actuator that moves the upper door vents)
Fml thinking about just saying eff it and hookin up a choke cable to it but I got a “rare” truck s15 4x4 with digi dash extended cab so ahhh fuck me
I'm not sure there's you can check out the manual from whatever car you working on
I read this again a few times and I don't understand what you are referring to. I went to a pull it yard many times to break stuff on wrecked trucks instead of my own.
@@barrysauce I broke one of the “ears” the actuator for the defrost vents mount to. (The vertical one with 1 vac line...) I still can’t seem to get it off. The nuts appear to be 10mm but are “soft” and maliuable... I’ve slipped into somewhat of a denial-depression knowing that it’s gonna require a shit ton of work so to “cope” I’ve distracted myself with an even more volatile and messed up task.... the digidash.... only messed with it when I first got the truck I reflowed all the solder connections. Mind you I learned how to solder when I was 10 by my grandfather (who was a BBC radio engineer). Pretty handy with an iron but the damn thing is so finicky and brittle to begin with and seems like everyone and their mom has had a poke at the power supply board. I literally had to carve a “custom” trace in the board to get it halfway working... but this time I’m going for 100% or I’m sending it to Canada for that one guy/company to fix or replace it. Mines doesn’t show the speed or turn signals which is the animated and coolest part. If you don’t know what I’m talking about look up s10 s15 digital dash vcd. Much retro. I like. But anyways my fucking actuator thing busted amount so that means I guess I have to fucking hook up a choke cable or a piece of string like a tampon and I’ll just yank on it whenever I need to switch between the vents in the damn defrost got it breaks my heart when that shit broke in my hand my soul shattered with it.
Lol congrats
Thanks bro. That pile of crap works now dammit. Been broken since I got the s10 I think. didn't realize how bad it was till I started to take apart more and more of it and realize how messed up it was.