Thanks to your video’s Cyd, I serviced my son’s Peugeot 107 today and it was all made really easy with your step by step video and important tips to make it all go smoothly. Well, I did drop the sump nut into the oil drain pan DOH! 😂
my friend has toyota aygo and this channel is great, full of usefull maintanence videos, i do his maintenances so i always check this channel and use as a guide, so much thanks
Many thanks @Cyclone Cyd ! Following your method today, I've just completed my first ever full flush, filter and oil change on an old Aygo! (Never done so on any car.) Reading the direction on the flush, I was a bit worried that it said not to drive the car whilst the flush was added to the old oil. So, before starting, I made sure that both the filter and sump plug could be removed. Slightly different to your video, I only had a chain-type oil-filter remover and I couldn't use it because the plastic shield between the wheel-well and engine-bay obstructed access. Luckily enough though, with a bit of effort, the old filter could be removed just by unscrewing by hand. As I've no idea when this car had it's last oil-change, I decided to do it at 60k. My guess is it's never had an oil-change! Using the flush, the old oil does seem to have a thinner consistency and was very dirty. When I re-bottled the old oil, the funnel I used had a small sieve in it and there were only 3-4 rice-sized pieces of crud. As I've no idea how much my local garage would charge for a full flush and oil change, I've no idea how much money I saved. Old filter was a cheap generic, new filter is a Bosch - only about £2 more expensive than a new generic. Plus, I did feel that I could afford to replace the old cheap supermarket oil that I usually use with new Magnatec. Also, shop around for various suppliers - "H" isn't always the best choice, in my case "ECP" was half the price for the same items. Even though I'm a reasonably large guy, when the Aygo was up on the ramps, I found it very easy to access the filter and sump-plug. With I little bit of planning and understanding of the procedure, anyone should be able to carry-out their own C1 / 107 / Aygo engine flush, filter and oil changes. Even the tools needed don't need to be expensive. Again, many thanks Cyd!
Wow! I've only just seen this comment. Well done you! I fully agree, use a well known brand of oil and filter. I too use ECP. Have you done any more servicing since? eg air filter, cabin filter, plugs??
Several videos later, and yours is by far the most helpful, with info others leave out and leaving out stupid background music others insist on putting in (some literally with no info at all, just someone doing the job!). The only thing on my mind now is whether my "hand tight" on the sump bolt is about right, and I think somewhere I did see torque settings, but it's probably just anxiety - which may be why a lot of people end up overtightening. So torque settings would be useful. If the wife gets home tomorrow I'll check when I do the topping up. Hand tight on the filter feels less worrisome since it's got the rubber seal. Many thanks.
Thanks & great videos Cyd, I've been given a Toyota Aygo & these videos are just pure gold for someone like myself who is new to all of this kind of stuff (P.S. I managed to fix my rear windscreen wiper all thanks to your video on it and probably saved myself a bit of money, so thanks again)
Use engine flush on a rare occasion.I used Forte engine flush & fuel cleaner 11 yrs ago and never went over a 5k oil change.My 2002 Yaris today is still running sweet as a nut with only one flush 11 yrs ago and still quiet as a church mouse.Don't go over 6,000 miles if i were you as VVT-i engines doesn't like it much if it gets sludged,thus flow is restricted especially on top og engine through those tiny holes.The timing chain will last longer too.Plus doing short trips/journeys incl being stuck in traffic jams is regarded as "Severe driving" as mentioned in the owners manual.I use 5W-30 Magnatec personally.It made my engine more noticeably quieter! One tip is when the old oil is drained with drain plug/sump plug is already off,is to pour in some new clean oil.This will drain out any old oil already sitting on bottom of the sump.Oil is cheap,engines are not.
If you watch my Saab oil change video you'll see me doing just that. thanks for the comprehensive comment, I'm sure plenty of others will benefit. this is exactly what I hope for - viewers adding their knowledge to mine, I don't know everything, no one person can and anyone who claims they do [you know who] is a liar
Are you using the correct oil? Shell Helix Ultra Professional AP-G Engine Oil - 5W-30 specification is ACEA 3, C1's should use specification ACEA C2 Shell Helix Ultra Professional AP-L Engine Oil - 5W-30?
The 2014on 1.0 litre petrol engine is the same as the earlier cars, so all service parts are the same and method exactly the same. The 1.2 litre is PSA's own engine and whilst the methodology would be the same, the engine layout and service parts will be different.
Cyclone Cyd thanks a lot, mine has the same 1 litre too, just wanted to ask it if theyve changed something in engine after mk2 design which may affect the servicing procedure.
@@gtibruce Ah! the mk2 might be different, but I would guess not as it would add cost and complexity into the car which sort-of goes against it's whole ethos.
Very good video, but the oil should be 0W20 full syntethic according to the manual. You will have a better fuel economy, less noisy engine and more happy reving.
That's for the 2012 model year and onwards. I suspect the change was to push the emissions below the 100g/km mark to get free road tax in the UK. I have a 2012 Aygo and I did try 0w20 and I would never do it again. Oil consumption increased from 500ml per 5000 miles with 0w30 upto 1.6L per 5000 miles with 0w20... Switched back to 0w30 on my oil change and it's back to 500ml per 5000 miles so I'm guessing the thinner oil slips past the piston rings and seals easier. Fuel economy wasn't noticeably different either around 70-77mpg and still getting around 70-77mpg with 0w30 (although I did just get a 79.1mpg tank but I'm putting that down to the recent heatwave). 0w20 did quieten down the piston slap but the risk of destroying the engine if you forget to check the oil level put me off ever using it again.
Hi Ludendorff, thanks for watching and interacting. A 0W oil is fine, especially in winter, but the bottom line for NOT using a 20 weight oil is that is not what is specified by Toyota for this engine. As it is, the engine is specified for 40 weight and since they tend to run cool 30 is fine, particularly in more temperate climates. However, 20 may be too fluid, especially in hotter climates and may be too low to maintain the oil film in bearings and at cam lobes. It would probably seem fine for a while and even give an economy improvement, but I suspect it'd suffer cam and bearing wear prematurely. We cannot know this for certain, but personally I wouldn't.
📽 How to change the spark plugs: czcams.com/video/yQqbFBizuMw/video.html
Thanks to your video’s Cyd, I serviced my son’s Peugeot 107 today and it was all made really easy with your step by step video and important tips to make it all go smoothly. Well, I did drop the sump nut into the oil drain pan DOH! 😂
Thanks for your comments and feedback Steven, glad it helped.
my friend has toyota aygo and this channel is great, full of usefull maintanence videos, i do his maintenances so i always check this channel and use as a guide, so much thanks
Many thanks @Cyclone Cyd !
Following your method today, I've just completed my first ever full flush, filter and oil change on an old Aygo! (Never done so on any car.)
Reading the direction on the flush, I was a bit worried that it said not to drive the car whilst the flush was added to the old oil. So, before starting, I made sure that both the filter and sump plug could be removed.
Slightly different to your video, I only had a chain-type oil-filter remover and I couldn't use it because the plastic shield between the wheel-well and engine-bay obstructed access. Luckily enough though, with a bit of effort, the old filter could be removed just by unscrewing by hand.
As I've no idea when this car had it's last oil-change, I decided to do it at 60k. My guess is it's never had an oil-change!
Using the flush, the old oil does seem to have a thinner consistency and was very dirty. When I re-bottled the old oil, the funnel I used had a small sieve in it and there were only 3-4 rice-sized pieces of crud.
As I've no idea how much my local garage would charge for a full flush and oil change, I've no idea how much money I saved. Old filter was a cheap generic, new filter is a Bosch - only about £2 more expensive than a new generic. Plus, I did feel that I could afford to replace the old cheap supermarket oil that I usually use with new Magnatec.
Also, shop around for various suppliers - "H" isn't always the best choice, in my case "ECP" was half the price for the same items.
Even though I'm a reasonably large guy, when the Aygo was up on the ramps, I found it very easy to access the filter and sump-plug.
With I little bit of planning and understanding of the procedure, anyone should be able to carry-out their own C1 / 107 / Aygo engine flush, filter and oil changes. Even the tools needed don't need to be expensive.
Again, many thanks Cyd!
Wow! I've only just seen this comment. Well done you! I fully agree, use a well known brand of oil and filter. I too use ECP. Have you done any more servicing since? eg air filter, cabin filter, plugs??
@@CycloneCyd Next - window-wiper blades!
Several videos later, and yours is by far the most helpful, with info others leave out and leaving out stupid background music others insist on putting in (some literally with no info at all, just someone doing the job!). The only thing on my mind now is whether my "hand tight" on the sump bolt is about right, and I think somewhere I did see torque settings, but it's probably just anxiety - which may be why a lot of people end up overtightening. So torque settings would be useful. If the wife gets home tomorrow I'll check when I do the topping up. Hand tight on the filter feels less worrisome since it's got the rubber seal. Many thanks.
Around 30Nm is usual. So fairly hand tight with a spanner. Yeah, don't overdo it, I see lots of people having trouble getting them off again!!
@@CycloneCyd Cheers Cyd - I trusted my muscle memory in the end.
Great video. I will be trying this today.
Thanks & great videos Cyd, I've been given a Toyota Aygo & these videos are just pure gold for someone like myself who is new to all of this kind of stuff (P.S. I managed to fix my rear windscreen wiper all thanks to your video on it and probably saved myself a bit of money, so thanks again)
Use engine flush on a rare occasion.I used Forte engine flush & fuel cleaner 11 yrs ago and never went over a 5k oil change.My 2002 Yaris today is still running sweet as a nut with only one flush 11 yrs ago and still quiet as a church mouse.Don't go over 6,000 miles if i were you as VVT-i engines doesn't like it much if it gets sludged,thus flow is restricted especially on top og engine through those tiny holes.The timing chain will last longer too.Plus doing short trips/journeys incl being stuck in traffic jams is regarded as "Severe driving" as mentioned in the owners manual.I use 5W-30 Magnatec personally.It made my engine more noticeably quieter! One tip is when the old oil is drained with drain plug/sump plug is already off,is to pour in some new clean oil.This will drain out any old oil already sitting on bottom of the sump.Oil is cheap,engines are not.
If you watch my Saab oil change video you'll see me doing just that. thanks for the comprehensive comment, I'm sure plenty of others will benefit. this is exactly what I hope for - viewers adding their knowledge to mine, I don't know everything, no one person can and anyone who claims they do [you know who] is a liar
Peugeot 107 engine oil capacity
Model: Peugeot 107 (2005 - 2014)
Peugeot 107 Engine Capacity/Filter capacity
litres(liters) Oil Change Intervals
107 1.0 (2005 - 2008) 1KR-FE 3.1 / 0.1 15 000 km/ 12 months
107 1.0 (2008 - 2014) 384F 3 / 0.25 15 000 km/ 12 months
107 1.4 HDi (2005 - 2008) DV4TD 3.8 30 000 km/ 24 months
107 1.4 HDi (2008 - 2014) DV4TD 3.8 / 0.4 30 000 km/ 24 months
Thanks for the useful info, Csaba
good little video.What size oil wrench did you use.I got a peugeot 107.Thanks
In the description! 107 is same car as C1.
Thanks for that! What type / size of crash washer should I use on a 2012 Citroen C1? Should I reuse the existing one? I want to avoid leaks.
Is it worth replacingthe sump plug gasket ? washer?
Yes. I replace it at every other change. An M14 (IIRC) copper washer is suitable.
Thank you our brother (we are all children of god) 👌👍🌈🚗🚗🚗
Super
Thanks
Thank u for this!
Jeroen Van Der Roest thank you for watching. Glad it was useful.
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Are you using the correct oil? Shell Helix Ultra Professional AP-G Engine Oil - 5W-30 specification is ACEA 3, C1's should use specification ACEA C2 Shell Helix Ultra Professional AP-L Engine Oil - 5W-30?
Sorry, forgot to include that this is for the petrol engine 1.0 litre
Cyclone Cyd are those valid for the mk2 too?
The 2014on 1.0 litre petrol engine is the same as the earlier cars, so all service parts are the same and method exactly the same. The 1.2 litre is PSA's own engine and whilst the methodology would be the same, the engine layout and service parts will be different.
Cyclone Cyd thanks a lot, mine has the same 1 litre too, just wanted to ask it if theyve changed something in engine after mk2 design which may affect the servicing procedure.
Ah, right. AFAIK, no they haven't and I do know the filter is the same. Do let us know how you get on though.
@@CycloneCyd thank you sir 🙏
Can you tell me how can I fill up the brake oil on this car?
Hi Groovy, the brake fluid reservoir is at the rear of the engine bay and has a yellow cap on a translucent reservoir.
Why wasn’t the installation of the new filter shown?
Does it matter?
Cyclone Cyd Oh, well, something simple like it was to far to reach while filming.... but now I’m convinced no new filter was fitted.
Hi. Could you tell me what ACEA GRADE oil is best for this.? 5W30 C2 or 5W30 C3
The bigger num the better for your engine.the manual says about sae SH and above!
IIRC it's C3.
Hi, do you have to reset the engine light on these?
Do you mean "service due" light? Ours doesn't have one. Does yours?
@@CycloneCyd Hi, i guess if you haven't got one then i wont either on my 2014 Aygo !?
@@gtibruce Ah! the mk2 might be different, but I would guess not as it would add cost and complexity into the car which sort-of goes against it's whole ethos.
3.6 liter 5-30 with filter change.
Torque specs?
Huh, ❓ What is the question?
@@CycloneCyd oil drain plug 30 nm and s new seal. Oil filter is specified to hand tight. 1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket sets.
Very good video, but the oil should be 0W20 full syntethic according to the manual. You will have a better fuel economy, less noisy engine and more happy reving.
That's for the 2012 model year and onwards. I suspect the change was to push the emissions below the 100g/km mark to get free road tax in the UK.
I have a 2012 Aygo and I did try 0w20 and I would never do it again. Oil consumption increased from 500ml per 5000 miles with 0w30 upto 1.6L per 5000 miles with 0w20... Switched back to 0w30 on my oil change and it's back to 500ml per 5000 miles so I'm guessing the thinner oil slips past the piston rings and seals easier.
Fuel economy wasn't noticeably different either around 70-77mpg and still getting around 70-77mpg with 0w30 (although I did just get a 79.1mpg tank but I'm putting that down to the recent heatwave). 0w20 did quieten down the piston slap but the risk of destroying the engine if you forget to check the oil level put me off ever using it again.
Have always used 5w40,a good oil choice plus it's cheaper.
Why not 0W-20?
Hi Ludendorff, thanks for watching and interacting. A 0W oil is fine, especially in winter, but the bottom line for NOT using a 20 weight oil is that is not what is specified by Toyota for this engine. As it is, the engine is specified for 40 weight and since they tend to run cool 30 is fine, particularly in more temperate climates. However, 20 may be too fluid, especially in hotter climates and may be too low to maintain the oil film in bearings and at cam lobes. It would probably seem fine for a while and even give an economy improvement, but I suspect it'd suffer cam and bearing wear prematurely. We cannot know this for certain, but personally I wouldn't.
@@CycloneCyd it is 1KR-FE engine and 0W-20 is specified by Toyota, you'r may find manual from 2102 Aygo and chek it out.
@@CycloneCyd I did actually notice on the Toyota site it now says 0w-16 but in my Toyota manual it says 5w30
@@micheals1992 maybe that's for newer versions of the engine
Because you'll have no oil after a month in your car 😂
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