Just by looking at the light i can see some of the original clearcoat. That tells me that it wasn't done properly. I will also tell you that there is no headlight that will be repaired permanently. they may last 2-5 years if done right and have been cleaned regularly and garaged, climate has a lot to do with how long it will last. all the 2k will do is make it harder to do next time because it is a harder finish. I have been restoring headlights for 15 years and done thousands of them so i know what i am talking about. Overlap each pass by 40% and slow down the drill movement and let the sanding pad do it's job. 2k is for Paint not plastic headlights after they are cured coat them with Turtle wax polish infused with graphene and they will get 2-5 years.
That 3M kit does a great job polishing up the headlights; I've used it a few times. The problem I've had is keeping it that way. I had considered using the Spraymax Clear for headlights, but noted your comment regarding the Turtle Wax polish infused with graphene and am intrigued. Would you mind specifying the exact product and could you mind clarifying this statement, " after they are cured coat them with Turtle wax polish infused with graphene and they will get 2-5 years." What do you mean, "after they have cured"? After what has cured? Thank you!
@@johnlindsay6039 I Use the MeGuair's Headlight clearcoat. It ads clarity and ultraviolet protection. The 2K dries so hard you will need 3-4X the sandpaper to remove it the next time around.
@@johnlindsay6039 Yes about 6 hours after the spray clear. If you get a run all you need to do is use painter's tape to pick up the run and it should self-level and leave no trace of the run.
@@johnlindsay6039 Curing is the process of time it takes to reach its full hardness. For instance, it can be hard enough to touch and even polish in 5-6 hours, but it takes 24 hardness to fully cure and reach its full hardness. I add a coat of the Graphene after winter and again in the fall and the lights stay clear and i am doing the entire vehicle anyway and it takes about 5 minutes to do the lights.
You're welcome! I've stood on others shoulders that helped me with my own projects. It was time for me to contribute to help others with a system that worked well for me.
I used SprayMax2k clearcoat specially formulated for headlights. So far the results have been fantastic 6 months and counting now. Admittedly I'm an amateur but the products I used were recommended by professional detailers in the industry. I tried the Meguiers clear and it barely lasted a couple of months before failing.
@@aaronlabeauI don't believe that 2kmax was manufactured for headlights only?? It's main purpose is for painted surfaces like car bodies, All 2k products bonds to hard to polycarbonate lenses which needs to expand and contract with changing temperatures Winter Summer!! Moreover a nightmare to remove and could permanently damage your headlights permanently!!!There plenty of streams highlighting these critical issues as mentioned!!🤔🇬🇧👍
@@keithroberts5611 This formulation from Spraymax is specific for headlights. As to what makes it different than the other 2k products is unknown to me. Full disclosure I saw a video on The Paint Society CZcams channel and wanted to try the process as a protection step after cleaning the headlights up with the 3m kit first. czcams.com/video/Xubwpeuqm-E/video.html&pp=ygUydGhlIHBhaW50IHNvY2lldHkgc3ByYXltYXggMmsgY2xlYXIgZm9yIGhlYWRsaWdodHM%3D
Everything was going along just fine, You followed the instructions properly, The right tools, ect Then you applied the wrong Clearcoat?? Where on that can does it say for headlights only ?? Why didn't you use a certified headlight only Clearcoat??? And pop the hood before starting???
@nickmurphy8301, not every CZcams channel shares the view that 2k clear is the best approach. Even though @aaronlabeau did a beautiful job of applying it, you may wish to check around to be sure that is the route you want to go.
No. Stay as far away from 2k clear as possible. It’s not engineered for polycarbonate lenses. Everyone enjoys making videos so they can proclaim it’s “permanent” Go lookup the nightmare 2k clear removal vids… Use meguiares or chemical guys
I'm not a chemical engineer but I think it's a safe assumption that the dawn soap is a more gentle method of removing the buffing compound. But to your point, as a former detailer we used to acid wash cars as a much faster way of removing contamination from the paint vs using a clay bar. By all means use whatever method you think is best. On one hand I would think once the lenses are sealed they are sealed but I have seen paint defects/contaminants surface though paint and clearcoat before. Admittedly, I'm not an expert at removing residue nor sealing headlights but this is by far the best method I've used to date.
You should have stopped sanding at 800 grit The clear coat needs something to hold on to It would have stilled come out crystal clear and lasted for years The way it is now it is going to flake off within a year
I have done many, many headlights and always sanded to a 3000 grit Trizact disk then compounded them and then went oner it with isopropyl/and water 50/50 mix and they look like new with no scratches showing at all, the Clearcoat it to protect the finish and ad clarity. Never has it ever flaked off. it is not like painting a house or car. The more work you put into the prep the better it will come out and last.
@@bruceaugustine6486 and yet when you clear coat a car you stop at 800 grit Go figure Also I have seen plenty of clear coat flake off at 2000 grit let alone polishing it out and then clear coating it. I’ll stick to 800 grit & then clear coating it Lasts for years and years and years.
@@xpacmaner23 I never had an issue after using the products in this video. Previously I used an off the shelf kit from an auto parts store that failed and the lenses yellowed again.
Did you find that your milwaukee cordless drill provided more than enough torque /RPM speed to do the job ? I have a black and decker cordless drill and an electric corded dewalt drill , and i'm wondering which one I should use to do my restoration job like yours?
@@troyhenry3267 you don't need a ton of torque for this job. I think of this process as a layering type of improvement. It was 3 or 4 passes with each disk type / courseness.
I think the key thing to remember using this kit is low speed for step 1+ 2 slightly higher for step 3 trizact p3000 with water, For headlights polish if you have speed settings on the drill number 2 maximum speed keeping the drill moving over the lens and importantly light pressure throughout the restoration always!! 🤔🇬🇧👍
Technically of course you've got me. No headlight is permanent. But the SprayMax clear for headlights should last far longer than what's put in most headlight restoration kits. From what I've seen most restoration kits put nothing in them at all for protection which works great as a business model selling restoration kits. I probably won't have the van for two more years but a short update a year from now should be telling.
one thing I would add: My recommendation to use SprayMax 2K (#368-0061) came from the proprietor of an automotive paint supply shop that has been in existence for forty (40) years. Ray's Paint and Supply. Ray started out in South Tucson and now has operations in Southern California as well. My painter trusts him implicitly. His statement was: "Finish your polishing then used Spray Max 2K. They will still look the same 5 years from now if you take care of them.")
I was pointed to the SprayMax2k clear for headlights after watching a lot of videos from both Paint Society and Apex Detail. Though the guy from Paint Society used the Eastwood clear (in the video I watched) instead of the SprayMax like I used; I have to believe the quality of the finished product is similar. As you're saying there's a night and day difference between actual clear coat you get in the paint section vs a watered down version you get in the wax and tire shine section of an auto parts store. Thank you for the detailed comment!
There’s a guy in my city that guarantees for 8 years. He doesn’t tell anyone what he uses, but he did it on a car I had before and I had that car for 7 years after he did it and it never came back. I ended up selling the car.
@@ShoeHefner757 even though I'm only about 5 months in on the restoration there's not a hint of oxidation. I'll be doing another video on a Mazda 3 hoping for the same results.
@@hacatan24 A headlight clear coat like the Meguair's. If you get a run you can use painters tape to lift the run out and then it will self-level and be clear and smooth.
@@aaronlabeau The catalyst in the hardener of the 2k has been known to damage the polycarbonate. The other tip i wanted to share is leave the hood open and it will cut down the taping and allow access to the top lip of the headlight and eliminate the chance of scratching the hood. you should wipe the surface they you are spraying a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water as a prep cleaner.
Just by looking at the light i can see some of the original clearcoat. That tells me that it wasn't done properly. I will also tell you that there is no headlight that will be repaired permanently. they may last 2-5 years if done right and have been cleaned regularly and garaged, climate has a lot to do with how long it will last. all the 2k will do is make it harder to do next time because it is a harder finish. I have been restoring headlights for 15 years and done thousands of them so i know what i am talking about. Overlap each pass by 40% and slow down the drill movement and let the sanding pad do it's job. 2k is for Paint not plastic headlights after they are cured coat them with Turtle wax polish infused with graphene and they will get 2-5 years.
That 3M kit does a great job polishing up the headlights; I've used it a few times. The problem I've had is keeping it that way. I had considered using the Spraymax Clear for headlights, but noted your comment regarding the Turtle Wax polish infused with graphene and am intrigued. Would you mind specifying the exact product and could you mind clarifying this statement, " after they are cured coat them with Turtle wax polish infused with graphene and they will get 2-5 years." What do you mean, "after they have cured"? After what has cured? Thank you!
@@johnlindsay6039 I Use the MeGuair's Headlight clearcoat. It ads clarity and ultraviolet protection. The 2K dries so hard you will need 3-4X the sandpaper to remove it the next time around.
@@bruceaugustine6486 So are you using the Turtle wax with infused graphene over the top of that too?
@@johnlindsay6039 Yes about 6 hours after the spray clear. If you get a run all you need to do is use painter's tape to pick up the run and it should self-level and leave no trace of the run.
@@johnlindsay6039 Curing is the process of time it takes to reach its full hardness. For instance, it can be hard enough to touch and even polish in 5-6 hours, but it takes 24 hardness to fully cure and reach its full hardness. I add a coat of the Graphene after winter and again in the fall and the lights stay clear and i am doing the entire vehicle anyway and it takes about 5 minutes to do the lights.
Thank you for all the work you put into the video and made it easy to watch. I hope the job lasts a long time!
You're welcome! I've stood on others shoulders that helped me with my own projects. It was time for me to contribute to help others with a system that worked well for me.
Looks great , I used the 2k headlight clear. Now I'm realizing I needed a respirator fml
@@Gospeed777 yep, it has that ozone eroding smell.
@@aaronlabeau ngl I'm hella worried now. I'm never using that stuff again. I had no PPE on at all except gloves. Not sure if I need to go to ER
Do you use a ceramic coating after you restore it? I used miguiars with a coating. Came back brand new and still looking good after 3 yrs.
I used SprayMax2k clearcoat specially formulated for headlights. So far the results have been fantastic 6 months and counting now. Admittedly I'm an amateur but the products I used were recommended by professional detailers in the industry. I tried the Meguiers clear and it barely lasted a couple of months before failing.
@@aaronlabeauI don't believe that 2kmax was manufactured for headlights only?? It's main purpose is for painted surfaces like car bodies, All 2k products bonds to hard to polycarbonate lenses which needs to expand and contract with changing temperatures Winter Summer!! Moreover a nightmare to remove and could permanently damage your headlights permanently!!!There plenty of streams highlighting these critical issues as mentioned!!🤔🇬🇧👍
@@keithroberts5611 This formulation from Spraymax is specific for headlights. As to what makes it different than the other 2k products is unknown to me. Full disclosure I saw a video on The Paint Society CZcams channel and wanted to try the process as a protection step after cleaning the headlights up with the 3m kit first. czcams.com/video/Xubwpeuqm-E/video.html&pp=ygUydGhlIHBhaW50IHNvY2lldHkgc3ByYXltYXggMmsgY2xlYXIgZm9yIGhlYWRsaWdodHM%3D
Everything was going along just fine, You followed the instructions properly, The right tools, ect Then you applied the wrong Clearcoat?? Where on that can does it say for headlights only ?? Why didn't you use a certified headlight only Clearcoat??? And pop the hood before starting???
Great Job, looks like new... I recently did the same procedure except used the meguiars kit, think I will try the 2k clear next time.
Really glad you found the video helpful.
@nickmurphy8301, not every CZcams channel shares the view that 2k clear is the best approach. Even though @aaronlabeau did a beautiful job of applying it, you may wish to check around to be sure that is the route you want to go.
check “headlight restoration pro” he advised to stay away from 2k
No. Stay as far away from 2k clear as possible. It’s not engineered for polycarbonate lenses. Everyone enjoys making videos so they can proclaim it’s “permanent”
Go lookup the nightmare 2k clear removal vids…
Use meguiares or chemical guys
@@omeezyLKGood point the Boss is correct!!! This stuff can and do damage polycarbonate permanently, I take all instructions from the PRO!!!
This was a great how to on how to use the 3M kit. Well done.
Does the kit provide enough materials to do 2 headlamps?
Yes, with my heavily yellowed headlights I had enough in one kit to do two headlights with a couple disks to spare. YRMV depending on your lights.
why use dawn dish soap that leaves residue opposed to using isopropyl alcohol that doesnt?....
I'm not a chemical engineer but I think it's a safe assumption that the dawn soap is a more gentle method of removing the buffing compound. But to your point, as a former detailer we used to acid wash cars as a much faster way of removing contamination from the paint vs using a clay bar. By all means use whatever method you think is best. On one hand I would think once the lenses are sealed they are sealed but I have seen paint defects/contaminants surface though paint and clearcoat before. Admittedly, I'm not an expert at removing residue nor sealing headlights but this is by far the best method I've used to date.
You should have stopped sanding at 800 grit
The clear coat needs something to hold on to
It would have stilled come out crystal clear and lasted for years
The way it is now it is going to flake off within a year
I have done many, many headlights and always sanded to a 3000 grit Trizact disk then compounded them and then went oner it with isopropyl/and water 50/50 mix and they look like new with no scratches showing at all, the Clearcoat it to protect the finish and ad clarity. Never has it ever flaked off. it is not like painting a house or car. The more work you put into the prep the better it will come out and last.
@@bruceaugustine6486 and yet when you clear coat a car you stop at 800 grit
Go figure
Also I have seen plenty of clear coat flake off at 2000 grit let alone polishing it out and then clear coating it.
I’ll stick to 800 grit & then clear coating it
Lasts for years and years and years.
after 8 months, this headlight got crack from 2k clearcoat?
@@xpacmaner23 I never had an issue after using the products in this video. Previously I used an off the shelf kit from an auto parts store that failed and the lenses yellowed again.
@@aaronlabeau interested thank you!
Did you have a lot of spraymax left after you finished coating them?
Yes but it's only good for a short time after you activate the mix. Ignore the naysayers regarding this product it's legit and lasts.
Did you find that your milwaukee cordless drill provided more than enough torque /RPM speed to do the job ? I have a black and decker cordless drill and an electric corded dewalt drill , and i'm wondering which one I should use to do my restoration job like yours?
It did have all the power I needed. I swapped the battery one time. Granted the drill was practically new when I did the job.
@@aaronlabeau Aaron, I would need to buy an extra battery if I did use my cordless.
Do you think my corded drill would be overkill?
@@troyhenry3267 you don't need a ton of torque for this job. I think of this process as a layering type of improvement. It was 3 or 4 passes with each disk type / courseness.
@@troyhenry3267 You will have enough power with a 12V with a 4mah battery.
I think the key thing to remember using this kit is low speed for step 1+ 2 slightly higher for step 3 trizact p3000 with water, For headlights polish if you have speed settings on the drill number 2 maximum speed keeping the drill moving over the lens and importantly light pressure throughout the restoration always!! 🤔🇬🇧👍
There's no such thing as a permanent headlight restoration..... The best headlight restoration available would probably last about 2 yesrs
Technically of course you've got me. No headlight is permanent. But the SprayMax clear for headlights should last far longer than what's put in most headlight restoration kits. From what I've seen most restoration kits put nothing in them at all for protection which works great as a business model selling restoration kits. I probably won't have the van for two more years but a short update a year from now should be telling.
one thing I would add: My recommendation to use SprayMax 2K (#368-0061) came from the proprietor of an automotive paint supply shop that has been in existence for forty (40) years. Ray's Paint and Supply. Ray started out in South Tucson and now has operations in Southern California as well. My painter trusts him implicitly. His statement was: "Finish your polishing then used Spray Max 2K. They will still look the same 5 years from now if you take care of them.")
I was pointed to the SprayMax2k clear for headlights after watching a lot of videos from both Paint Society and Apex Detail. Though the guy from Paint Society used the Eastwood clear (in the video I watched) instead of the SprayMax like I used; I have to believe the quality of the finished product is similar. As you're saying there's a night and day difference between actual clear coat you get in the paint section vs a watered down version you get in the wax and tire shine section of an auto parts store. Thank you for the detailed comment!
There’s a guy in my city that guarantees for 8 years. He doesn’t tell anyone what he uses, but he did it on a car I had before and I had that car for 7 years after he did it and it never came back. I ended up selling the car.
@@ShoeHefner757 even though I'm only about 5 months in on the restoration there's not a hint of oxidation. I'll be doing another video on a Mazda 3 hoping for the same results.
Should also have been wiped with IPA solution before restoration
STOP using that 2k clear garbage! It’s a nightmare to deal with!
What's a good solution?
@@hacatan24 Meguaires Spray finish for headlights. Go watch: theheadlightrestortaionpro
@@hacatan24 A headlight clear coat like the Meguair's. If you get a run you can use painters tape to lift the run out and then it will self-level and be clear and smooth.
I personally did not have good luck with the Meguiars spray headlight finish. It yellowed within 6 months.
@@aaronlabeau The catalyst in the hardener of the 2k has been known to damage the polycarbonate. The other tip i wanted to share is leave the hood open and it will cut down the taping and allow access to the top lip of the headlight and eliminate the chance of scratching the hood. you should wipe the surface they you are spraying a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water as a prep cleaner.