Can we Get our 1975 Barn Find Truck Ready for Inspection? Volvo C304 Restoration (Week 4)
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- čas přidán 11. 04. 2024
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Volvo TGB 13
Volvo C304 6x6
Overlanding Europe
Sweden Sverige Malmö
Amazing channel! We have a big community in Sweden that drives and preserves old military Volvo vehicles. You should have at least a couple hundred or maybe thousands of trained mechanics that worked on these cars during their mandatory army service that will help you if you get stuck on something. We all want you to succeed! Best /JL
Thank you so much for watching! Well hopefully someone can help us with bleeding the brakes, it's been a nightmare 😖
@@TheOutFit Did you start bleeding the slaves furtherest from the master first and work back towards it ?
Usually takes me at least 2 laps around the whole system because i dont have a fancy vacuum unit like you have.
If you are finding it hard there might be a leak somewhere or seal bypass in the master ?
Your guys are single-handedly getting the making for this wonderful Volvo 303-304 to explode up in value, even though Chris is coming out with a a few choice 🤬 words once and again🤗, you are making it seem simple enough (🤔probably most accredited to Ange’s editing skills🤫).
Absolutely loved your speed introduction, thank you both for this maybe tedious work (for Chris🤓) videos, but they are really informative and great to see.
Thank you guys. 👍🤗🤗🤗
Thank you so much for following along and taking the time to comment!
Just adding my 2 cents - loving this build series. Appreciate all the work that goes into putting this content out...thank you!!!
Thank you for taking the time to share your nice feedback, it is reqlly motivating and encouraging :)
Chris, don't modify the bushings in the rear suspension. if you install ball joints in the rear, you might find that the tyre tracking in the rear may cause you bigger problems.
Biltema is great for budget tools and whatever, but when it comes to cutting edges, the cheap steel quality is just not up to the task.
Get brand name hack saw blades and drill bits, it will make your life easier. That truck is made from swedish steel and you'll need swedish steel to tackle it😉
Sandvik produces the best saw blades in the world, and they aren't even that expensive.
ill second this we use sandvik gear here in the mining industry in Australia... its good stuff
I agree, I buy lots of cheap tools but when it comes to drill bits, sawblades etc that are used on steel, it is well worth it to buy a good brand and likely cheaper than buying crap that does not work. If you want to save money its better to buy them of surplus stores or second hand (but in new/good shape). Öbergs steel files can be found dead cheep sometimes. Öbergs, sandvik, Guhring, Seco, Dixi, Dormer, OSG, SKF etc. are all good swedish/eu brands that can be found second hand in new conditions.
Glad that you are doing an in depth coverage of the mechanical refurbishment.
When I worked in a garage, we would refer to what you are using as a 'toffee hammer'. I said it a couple of weeks ago and I'll say it again - you need a BIGGER HAMMER - ok? 😄😄😄😄
I did find myself commenting at Chris' techniques like I would an apprentice. But he's self learning, and managing well.
@@kevinmoss970 i reckon Chris would be justified in getting a bit offended sometimes at the people who try to tell him what to do.
some of them mean well , some have done it before , some of them left their brain on the bus in 1979.
Its his journey and he is enjoying it his way.
We built our house whilst our first child played in a playpen. He was a very clingy child, probably like most first born. It was good for all of us and allowed him to become a bit more independent. Great work on the truck. Good to get the foundations done well before tackling the upstairs.
That's great to hear, well done to you! I think I'll just have to do some kind of toys rotation to keep him interested 😄 thank you so much for watching!
You guys are doing a fantastic job on the TGB
Much appreciated, thanks for taking the time to comment!
In Nordic conditions, a good underbody coating is the only thing keeping your vehicle from becoming a pile of rust in a few years. Whatever you end up doing to it, make sure you have a few good layers of underbody all over and under and in between and inside and everywhere. And cavity wax sprayed inside every hole you can find and in all directions.
Bravo , Chris ! Bon courage pour la suite .
Que les dieux de la mécanique soient avec toi .
Merci beaucoup Bernard pour le commentaire, ca fait plaisir de lire en francais!
Diffs should not move sideways
This is why when coil springs are fitted instead of leaf springs, a panhard bar / track bar is installed
That bar is made off spring steel and work like a tortion bar and help stability
Rubber bushings are much easier to remove with heat. Heat the surrounding metal until the rubber starts to melt, then it pushes out leaving very little cleanup. Best done outside....
and MAP gas from hardware is cheaper than renting oxy acetylene , like you say , wear a mask and do it outside on a windy day , the smoke gives me stinker headaches.
New subscriber here. Enjoying the build so far.
Piece of info, universals without grease zerks (permanently greased) are said to be stronger as they are solid, no grease pathways internally weakening them. So if you run into any issues with breaking them, maybe have a non greaseable one or two for spares.
So pumped for you guys. I love watching how the channel is evolving and watching the builds. Bravo 🙌🏽
Thank you so much Reiley for watching and taking the time to comment, much appreciated!
Lovinggggggggg this build fantastic job u r doing ......
So nice to hear your enthusiasm, thank you so much for watching!
Hey man, I live like 20 minutes away from where you are, small world eh.
Anyway, regarding the last question. The undercoating and the dirt and grime might protect from the elements but it also traps moisture. I have no personal experience with TGBs in particular but Ive removed undercoating from several other cars and theyve all had either surface rust or deep pitting under the coating in several places, even when they looked fine from the outside. In your case it obviously depends on how much time and energy you have, if you want to do it right then I would strip the whole thing down and redo it. I wouldnt worry too much about removing the cab, the wiring shouldnt be that impossible to sort out on an old truck like that, especially not if you make sure to label everything before removal. Id rather do it right from the start than to cut corners and regret it later.
next time you need to remove a bushing that you don't mean to save, you can run a bead of weld around the inside of the bushing. this will shrink the bushing inwards and release it easily. Obviously this will destroy the bushing, but its a useful trick if you're in a bind.
I feel for you man your right in the middle of the buy stuff to fix it part instead of the buy stuff to make it cooler part 😂😂 honestly cant wait to see it complete, you have the patience of a saint
Good to see you tackle mechanical stuff with limited knowledge, it's the best way to learn. I think those prop' bolts are the same as Landrover prop' bolts mate.
Underbody protection is a good thing, if it's not scabby and peeling leave well alone as it has bonded well with the metal, I personally would just repair any patchy places with a similar compound, and to spruce up the older manky looking areas just spray a mist of oil over it, this will" refresh" the look and also put a moisture barrier over the surface, moisture is steels enemy and will cause rust and rot in the blink of an eye, so any preventative maintenance now will pay dividends in later years.
Love this Restoration
Thanks for watching Guilherme!
As a new subscriber, happy to meet you all.
Thank you so much for subscribing!
What a huge project rebuilding the Volvo! 😱🥵🥹
I didn't want a second project. So my 2005 Suzuki Jimny I brought it to a specialist workshop for a checkup and gearbox replacement 🤭 Saturday I will pick it up and then I can start the build to make it into a small camper 💪😃
It will be worth it though, we love knowing the ins and outs of our vehicles!
I love the project. Usually watch boat guys but a military camper van...great.
That's such great feedback to hear, thanks for following along!
At this rate you are gonna end up knowing your new house more than you know yourselves. Another majestic video. ¡¡Pura Vida!! Also, this are no longer Adventure Videos, now they've become Tutorials for a Better Life.
Great to see you watching and commenting on our new build series too, we appreciate your support!
1 hour of joy! Nice job on those shafts, they look like new!
Thank you so much Alexander for watching and subscribing!
Put your bushes in the freezer over night and they will slide in a lot easier.
Also Zerk fittings are simply Grease nipples in Australia, amazing the names of things change so much.
Zerk is American for grease nipple
Unfortunately we have a tiny freezer!
I've been following you for a few weeks now and I'm really enjoying it! A little tip: try to limit the length of the episodes to 40 to 45 minutes. That is the maximum attention span of most people and that is where CZcams's algorithm does best.
Love you from the Netherlands!
Thank you so much for watching from the Netherlands! I (Ange) agree but I find it very difficult to trim more on these "week long" episodes without compromising the story or skipping some essential parts of Chris' work. I usually have roughly 2 to 3 hours of raw footage to go through 😄 next episode should be shorter :)
@@TheOutFitbeen following from your mig build in Australia, hi from Brisbane, love this series, Don’t make them shorter Ang , make them longer.
@@gerryhull1204 great to hear! Thank you so much Gerry for following along and your support :)
This series is comming along gr8
Thank you so much for watching and subscribing, it means a lot!
Quick way to tackle those unis. If you are definetly replacing them. Sometimes you have room to cock the flange to one side and cut the spider with a grinding disc both sides and then press the caps out one at a time.
So awesome! I just got my C303 this week and have been driving it ! It’s amazing! I have some leaks to deal with as it has been off the road for like 15 years. Your videos are great and it helps me understand how these are build and repairs. Cheers.
We saw your posts on the FB forum :) I like your white rims! All the best with your upcoming mods/repairs!
@@TheOutFit thanks ! It came with the white wheels so not sure what color to paint them. Trying to keep it military look! If you guys are ever in North Carolina USA look me up. There is another guy with serval of the radio trucks for sale here and we might be able to help with repairs or at least a good dinner and drink. Cheers.
@@ErickSowder sounds great thank you! We look forward to exploring the USA :)
Hey Ange ,actually enjoyed the random tell all .be interesting to here more .Far out Chris a lot of work done and miles to go .After watching the mog build i know you will achieve and you will be a man of knowledge once completed .Dont worry Ange Oakley will get to a point where you will be able to assist more and you will be back into getting your hands dirty.Enjoying the content greatly a lot of work their as well .stay safe and progress
I'd love to hear what you would like to hear more of :) Yes I'm looking forward to the start of the camper build especially and be back on the tools! Have a great weekend David!
Great content once again u 3 ...OMG 13 months can't believe it...all yhe best
April 12th, my first look at your yt chnl ... thanks and know that you have my support for your interests. Phil from Canada 🇨🇦
Thanknyou so much Phil for following along from Canada! We can't wait to ship our TGB there :)
Great video! Huge project! Great work!
Dam you guys are great, love watching this new project.
That's really nice to hear, thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
Looking forward to the next video! Such a great channel! Best of luck 🥳
Thanks a lot James for watching and taking the time to comment, it really helps us out!
Kiwi powered by Biltema (and some Jula)!
I really enjoy watching this. I was a tgb13 driver in my army days! Lots of time spent under it with the grease gun too!
One tip is to heat the copper pipe at the end with LPG and then shape it with your tools.
Copper "hardens" from vibration, so you can always heat (anneal) copper seals and quickly cool them with water, and they will become soft again.
Heat and rapid cool the copper line end to flare it...will soften the material making the job easy also a bit of spray lube when pressing helps
Amazing to watch the progress. In regard to the electrics, sometimes it’s just easier and faster to go all out / all new. Assuming you’ll need some changed to due to engine swap anyways, and otherwise there wouldn’t be that much in it? No computer at the moment?
What’s electric in a TBG, lights, indicators, wipers, heater, sensors, starter, alternator? List all devices, get an auto sparky to draw you a new diagram and redo it, you won’t regret it.
I’ve tried to do absolute bar minimum electrical when refreshing my Unimog dash, and I regret not have just done the lot. So now I am doing it this dry season anyways.
and add some new circuits with their own fuses just for new services in the camper such as power at the dashboard for new accessories and lots of new 12 V to the camper body.
51:16 Jess and chaun off 4WD 24/7 Australia mate there sht hot with gearing mate .
Hi, nice build, be aware of the biltema 8 mm hose is bad quality. I had 2 year old ones cracking, makes sence to use higher quality ones , especially for fuel.
Keep up the good work
Hakan
I unfortunatly have to agree that Biltema fuel hoses is of bad quality.
Hey Chris, suggestion when doing flares, try some silicon spray on the part that pushes the flange out, it will give you a better seat.
"One Swedish made pump." 😂
Pump work can really be a hard job 😅
Happy to see how everything develops here 👏👏👏
Greetings from Malmö 👋
Tack Åke!
Uni joints dont get pressed out. It looks like you have which stretches the taper in the housing. Use vice jaws and cradle the east-west of uni and hit housing around bearings to get the bearing cap come up and out
Hi Chriss. Not sure a vacuum operated brake booster will work on a turbo engine, No vacuum in the intake manifold. Best to check. Great Video, thanks .
Biltema has a brake line flaring kit 19-1261 that is hand held and really good
Buen trabajo mucho detalle excelente 👍🏽🇵🇦✅
Hitting them is the wrong way to get the caps out from the universal joints. You need a large pair of Channel Lock style pliers. Just grab the cap and twist it back and forth and it will come out without causing any damage to the bore that the caps sit in. Hitting them with a hammer side to side can elongate the bore and make it less stable for the caps.
If you want't to remove an Universal-Joint without damaging the Propshaft just cut it out with an Bandsaw or an Anglegrinder. Then Hammer out the cups. By pressing it complete the whole thing can bent realy easy and in the End you are wondering why the new ones are so tite.
It's the feeling where you don't want to destroy a nice part, even though you already decided to replace it.😅
the few C303 i have seen in the Swedish home guard that is sill in use they had replaced all hardlines with semihard rubber once that are transparant to make it easier to find and fix where the problems are if there is one. dont know if they are in active service, just for training or being restored for the military museums.
the only thing who breaks during cold war driving was putting in front wheels drive while spinning with rear wheels, , trashed tranfer case after a while, you would not notice it before it to late and you lose front wheel drive. and then you are stuck
Mean to see how far your knowledge of different parts/names of parts has come always a solid watch
Thank you so much for watching and commenting, much appreciated!
Fantastic episode as usual, your pipe cutter should have a deburring tool on the bottom, just an angled piece of steel.
Try freezing your uni joint caps, will make them easier to fit.
Keep up the awesome work, you are setting a cracking pace.
Hi Chris, nice to see that you are doing so much with the 13er, I am excited to see which diesel engine you choose. I myself have an 11er that I put an om606 turbo in, I pushed it under the car and lifted it into place with an engine crane, in through the left rear door, without taking the body apart. I look forward to the next episode. Good luck from here.
Looks great so far! So excited for it to get the road registration, hopefully soon!
Fingers crossed, we've had a few obstacles unfortunately! Thank you so much for following along :)
Hey Chris, great channel. I’ve got a similar suction pump. I took off one of the two seals from the piston, was less sticky then!
Its always good to have a new and also larger radiator to cool your engine....as to not over heat in high stress moments.. Cheers Chris., Angie
Chris you’re getting a lot done 🔧⚙️ looking forward to seeing it drive under its own power. 👍
Little Man is growing like a weed, won’t be long before he’s wheeling around the lot in some sort of rig 🏎️🛴⛹️
Hey how about an Ange video day 🤔 showing her typical day around your new temporary city…
Cheers from Lou🇺🇸
You can hire a dry ice gun to remove all the underbody coating. Makes the whole process so much easier. Can also use it to remove all of the surface rust on things too without damaging other components. Just be mindful that once you start, you're going to get carried away with it because of how well it works. So I would recommend hiring it for x2 the time you were planning.
the lock washer might be a "vikbricka" (folding washer) that you pin into the outside of the "punch nut". especially if the missing tooth line up with the slot of the nut
For the brake flares if you use a drill bit or countersink in your fingers and just deburr the inside it will help make them uniform - some of the expensive tools come with one. Red rubber or brake grease will also help make successful flares 👍🏻
Loving the build series. Looking forward to see what engine / transmission goes into the truck. But honestly I am more excited about the build of the habitat. The vehicle looks quite compact on the outside. Curious to see how you plan the interiors. Good luck guys. 😊
Love the videos. Something to prepare for is if you are going from a normally aspirated motor to a turbocharger you will no longer be producing any vacuum on the engine You'll have to add a vacuum pump for your brakes, diff licks and anything else vacuum actuated.
Amendment from below: this might only apply with superchargers. Cheers
Just an observation, wear some safety glasses. You only get one set of peepers! 🤓
if you get grit in your eye it scratches the surface even if its only in there for a few hours , then when you get old your vision goes to shit due to scarring where the scratches were.
Speaking from experience here as a 60 year old boilermaker.
Thanks
I enjoyed your build project.
Thank you so much for watching!
In case you didn't know you use the "button" thickness as a gauge on how much the brake line should stick out from the clamp. put the button on its back and use the wide parts thickness to line it up. also make sure you press it straight or its real easy to brake the pin off. so happy i found your channel!
Always freeze the bushings before install it shrinks them.
We don't have a freezer unforfunately
Biltema should sponsor you ...or maybe they do?
We wish 😅
Perhaps a Land rover specialist for the driveshaft bolts? You said that used land rover parts for the brakes, maybe for the drive shafts as well!?
With an old land rover you best fill the master brake cylinder with brake fluid before mounting it.
Just to make it a little easier to bleed. Or put the vehicle on a steep angle and then bleed it.
great work Chris on getting those drive shafts and brake lines on, i have also been working with rusted bolts and found really helpful was CRC Penetr8 hi speed penetrant. this has been really helpful to me, maybe this could help you as well. i really enjoy watching the progress of this build keep up the great work and i cant wait for the next video cheers
You can easily wind the caps out once you've pressed them far enough to be grabbable, either clamp the cap in a vice and gently twist/lever the prop assembly back and forth, or use a pair of vice grip/pump pliers to wind/twist the cap out.
How good are Sttoke cups! I’m intrigued how this is gonna turn out. Keep up the good work.
We have been using them everyday for more than a year now! Thanks a lot for following along :)
Good video will be nice build when done to travel in keep up the good video s
When using file, push away from you and then lift the file up off the material. The file only cuts the material when pushing it away from you.
I would remove the Cab, it makes work so much easyer.
On the drive shaft UJ's you can usually buy them cheaper if you buy by size, they're usually generic (like bearings) measure the cap diameter and across the uj outer cap to outer cap, you can then buy online, I usually buy GKN and make sure whatever you buy are greasable as some don't have the grease nipple. 👍
Biltema brake kit? I will use the same kit on my hilux 2001 soon... nice tutorial there, good to se not only me feels like its luck when I got a double flare!
I was just a grunt when I did my service. We drove the tgb13 ♥️ Ambulance big boy. So it was not mandatory really but we often got into muddy situations. And since greasing was mandatory we cleaned it outside but most importantly under neath. We hoisted it up and wacked it with water until super clean. If I remember correctly it was a black tar like substance underneath. But self preservation doing greasing with all mud plus an eventual yell of from a superior made us cleaning it underneath.
Just clean it
We did not having any leaks, it must have been all the years in civil service
Military grunts, cleaned, oiled and greased it. What the others do or did, they didn't do it enough
Fantastic vehicle, love the pragmatic thinking Sweden often has. As a Norwegian, I would spray anything not natural rubber with Fluid Film. Lanolin base, used by the US Navy after testing against oil based products. Neutralizes salt, creeps like cra
I dont see a reason to change out the rear leafsprings. I have a buddy who has a Tgb13 who has removed one leaf and runs only 2 and he loads 1ton on the back with timber and it barely shows, im afraid you might get a much stiffer ride if you change them out. I have a Tgb20 myself and with it being alot heavier in itself and the trooptransport bed with all its bells and whistles being quite heavy it does ride relatively stiff when you dont have anything in the back. So my 2 cents are keep those rear springs as is. Just put in spiral springs in the front. The rear springs from a Volvo 245 or similiar works very well for this! instead of using those old rubber "help springs"
Good luck!
Looking good Chris. The rubber bushings on those suspension links will allow enough twist / misalignment for those leaf springs to articulate (which will also have rubber bushings). If you needed more articulation (and you probably don’t for a camper set up), you could build links with heim joints / rod end bearings, but that will make it ride a little worse / rigidly on road. From memory, heim jointed links were not legal in Oz.
The best set up is to use graded urethane replacement brushes they last longer they don't deteriorate as quickly they cope better with heat and cold they are also far more impervious to water and solvents ..like oil and grease transmission fluids.. rubber will go like jelly exposed to some.
They also tend to use stainless steel bushings which reduces the chance of the bush sizing onto the eye bolts and ripping the rubber apart or pivoting the inner bush in the rubber or polymer instead of it pivoting on the bolt.
Polysport and polyspeed Speedline? make ranges and kits for popular vehicles. But I can tell you there's probably matches for most of yours
If you measure up the originals. They even make replacements for the drive donuts steering column joints and leaf spring pads. .. or can turn up new designs on request and given the specs. land rover Discovery owners found this out a long time ago. 😂
Really enjoying the build. That black paint you’re using on the drive train and brake components looks the business. Unfortunately not available in Australia. Did you use something equivalent on your Mog build?
Thank you so much Greg for following along! We used Raptor liner on the Mog build, if you look back at the Unimog build playlist, it is episode 3 for the chassis/driveline.
The driveshafts are simple, the u joints need to be in phase when you put them back together. the zerks are also such a small amount of weight and so close to the center of rotation that they wont affect the balance.
Propshaft bro
Do not fit softer isolastic bushes only fit the original Volvo ones. Softer bushes and you will pay the price later when you have to keep replacing them
Spoiler alert : we did 🫣
Nice progress on the TGB. Is it possible to make a short visit at the garage? 😃🇸🇪
Thanks a lot Martin for watching! As it's not our property we would prefer to organise a meet & greet somewhere else once we have made more progress on the build! We'll keep you posted :)
Meet and great may translate to "Möte and gröt" in Swedish 😊
Just thought to pop by in the Troopy, but let me know when its convenient for you to organize something and will be there if possible.
Btw, the oil syringe - you open it in the back and poor in the oil. You dont have to suck the oil out of the can 👍
New subscriber and liked the intro to who you are. Do you have ‘day jobs’ you do while restoring the Volvo?
Thank you so much for subscribing! CZcams has been our full-time jobs since 2021 :) We do have other smaller source of income but all related to content creation/photography.
i did get 19-1260 from biltama and do not have any problem bringing it in my c303 and my volvo L3314N ... but i do unpack it and fit in my tool box
if you sandblast it, it wont be galvanised anymore. If it ain't broke, don't fix it mate.
UNF threads... Unified Fine Thread system ... Specifically designed for harder metals where vibration might cause problems.
A lot of those parts would have been made in the UK using standard mass components or proven designs. GKN made a lot of Europe fasteners in those days .. Drive shafts and joints as they owned Hardy Spicer .. they made parts for Volvo for many years.. They still make the drives and armoured vehicles. They also make E drive I.S. motor axel units for the automotive markets.
Sadly GKN stoped making fasteners at their original factory in Smethwick Winsongreen area and it's now the site of a new hospital. But for over a century they made every type of fasteners going and countless specials for very particular jobs . From tiny plastic electronics screws to huge pieces.
My father actually got the job of making brake caliper bolts for the Lockheed Tristar airliners. ..
Old bikes and cars ....pipes etc very often had their own specialised thread systems. Even the Japanese had their own version of metric fasteners
at one time so if you're working with the stuff you will find you need JMD matched tools or be facing chewed up heads.
leave the sealer on the bottom of your vehicle....it help to prevent rust....your need to pressure wash the bottom and then rhino line the bottom of your vehicle...
Just use torch for bush removal those one on 3:20 burn this rubber and you good to go. Old way to do that. And it's perfect.
Get it ice blasted and repsray with with a rubber lining underneath
Where did you buy the bushings for the reaction rods ? I'm in need of changing those aswell on my 6x6
We do not recommend them, they are too soft (more on this on the next video). We ended up buying the ones from Tatanka.