Thanks for the 'complete' example, everyone else out there ONLY shows the not enough retraction with stringing. But not whats happens in the other direction.
This is one of the most simplest and usefull tutorials about retraction, and I agree with orbitalair, there is alot of people talking about the retraction in one direction ( not enought ) but this is equal important about to not exceed, and you shows excellent, thanks man! best regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well. It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle. You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament. Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
Thanks, Frank. I used the retraction settings used by others who had the same printer as me. It worked great as there was no stringing in the test print but I had some bumps along the side of one of the towers. Thinking it may have been caused by too much retraction I reduced the setting by 0.5mm and my next test print with the towers was perfect. :)
Content de voir un channel d'un québécois qui imprime en 3D. Ton anglais est vraiment bon mais il y a quelque chose dans l'accent qui m'a fait douté, c'est la plaque du Québec sur ton mur qui m'a fait réaliser. Tu as un nouvel abonné.
Thats actually super interesting for me right now, I have not seen an example like the third. Just swapped to a smaller nozzle and tried a similar test print but it actually broke while printing (it was pretty small tho). But your third example seems promising, I will completly turn off retraction and then work my way up again
Frank's 3D shop I was wondering, I have a blockage on my MP select mini V2. I’ve tried a cold pull, but it either snaps off to a flat point or it doesn’t remove anything. Any tips?
Me too today! What I did is remove the heat bloc from the heat break, used pliers to hold the heat bloc, than did the cold pull without everything else in the way... That is maybe extreme, you can also just disconnect the PTFE tube from the hot end, than do your cold pull from there, it’s hard to get the cold pull over all of that tubing, you have to be really fast so that it does not bloc inside the long tube when it gets colder and solidifies.
Nice. This will probably be my first print test once I get my printer set up. I downloaded the String Test file, except followed the Remix link and got the one with the smaller base for faster printing.
thank you. i kept wondering why my brand new expensive extruder (titan aero) kept looking so bad, like the third one. it was driving me nuts. but now i know why!
Awesome video but I didn't get when to add or subtract? It would help to know with the retraction DISTANCE setting for example In the case of STRINGING(not enough retraction) do you ADD or SUBTRACT from the RETRACTION DISTANCE?
I'm struggling with mine I'm trying to print slik and it's not coming out shiny like I have seen so is this my retraction coasting or my flow multiplayer I haven't got my coasting set high bec if it's higher than 0.006 I get holes in my prints
Thanks for this video, I like its short and very understandable, I think I am missing a little explanation about the two new parameters so users can know which one to rise or low and the interaction between them.
I still can't understand is Retraction Extra Prime a good feature for rigid plastics? How is it vs Coasting or it can be used in the combination? The Ultimaker's doc says just few phrases about this feature. Is the positive stays to suck in the filament or it need to be set to -0.** value?
Easy to understand. Thank you so much. I'm so annoy with oozing issue I just wonder that you said "Chao" in Vietnamese at the end of the video! So cool.
I thought that, it looks intentional because of the detail and how symmetrical the pattern is. You could beaten the towers by hand and it would be a cool decorative piece 👍
i am currently using the same printer in this video... i have had to set mt retraction to 7 and speed to 70, just not to get this spider silk style stringing. 7 sounds a bit too much but the stringing is not fully gone. any other ideas on what may be happening.
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
Million thanks for your comment. You made me realise what I was doing wrong and why my all metal was clogging all the time. I don't even know why I set 3mm on it... it always created this plug that clogged the filament.
Hey, i just mounted a new heatbreak and ran into the mentioned issues. I don't know what's the cold end tho, would you mind explaining it to me? Thank you very much!
Hi, they were really far from what is used normally to show the extremes. For direct drive printers with the motor just over the extruder it is around 1mm of retraction and with Bowden tube setups it’s like 4mm or more depending on the length of the tube, speed is around 25mm/s to 40
Thank u so much for the helpful info. ! ! If anybody can help me with my problem tho, I am printing hydrogel with air pressure based extruder and printing simple shapes like a cylinder. The thing is that the initial amount of extrusion when the pressure starts to apply and the rest of the extrusion amount as air pressure valve stays open. Can I solve this problem with ooze settings like common PLA printing settings?
Hi, if I remember, I went really far to be able to get those camera friendly results, the important thing is to know if you are over or under and do some tests to get the optimal setting. Do an extrusion calibration before that.
Hi, no I do not have a video on that, but speed is less of an issue, between 25 and 40 mm/s seems good for PLA on either Bowden or direct feed extruder.
Hi Frank, I got my printer working pretty well with your help, but Ive run into some problems I need your advice on...when I printed the 30mm to 40mm fan adapter you had listed on my mini, the print only completed about two thirds of the way and was very thin and brittle. The top broke away from the base so I'm slicing the file again and I'm going to try it again. Ive had a few prints that have come out thin and not complete. Not sure whats going on...any suggestions? Thanks, Richard Jackson
Hi, it could be your extrusion calibration, mine was off had to issue a M92 E111 and a M500 on the printer (look at my video on PID Autotune to know how), that would be my first suggestion, try that first. Use my video about extrusion to verify the setting. And get back to me about this, please. Extrusion problems czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html Auto PID Tuning Heat Bed Calibration. czcams.com/video/YpWCKNagjuI/video.html
Is 'Retraction' how much it lifts the extruder from the current layer, or is retraction how much it reverse feeds the filament - similar to releasing pressure on a culk gun so it doesn't ooze out the end?
It’s mostly how the printer extruder is situated, on Bowden Tube setup when the extruder is far from the hot end, you need more retraction distance to compensate for the slack in the tube. Speed is key to stringing and blobs, it has to be fast enough to stop the oozing. Material like flexibles, you have to disable retraction because of the elasticity.
I see all these videos explaining retraction pretty well but none really talk about how speed affects the print. Is there a source I can tap into gay explains this?
I'm getting the lovely combination of not enough retraction and too much at the same time. I'm at my wits end. no settings seem to be right. its been a year :(
Hi, first calibrate extrusion czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html than if you have a bowden tube feeding the extruder use 5 to 8 mm at 30mm/s of retraction, if it’s a direct drive extruder use 1mm or less of retraction at 30mm/s, than the temperature influence also the stringing, try 200C and if you have stringing, lower it by 5 degrees at a time down to 190 minimum. Bad PLA can also cause some problems, here in Canada I get good results with Amz3D PLA.
@@Franks3Dshop salut Frank 3d shop J'ai bien aimé ta video.. but j'ai une ender 3 ! et j'aimerai avoir la distance de rétractation et la vitesse !!! merci
Salut, avec un long tube pour amener le filament commence par 5mm à une vitesse de 25mm/s et ajuster plus ou moins la longueur. Une fois trouver le bon ajustement tu pourras essayer un peu plus vite et voir l’effet sur la finition...
thanks for these tips. I did the tests on the pillars to find the right settings. But on the boat it doesn't work. if I understood correctly, the parameters of retraction must be done on each project?
Hi, no retraction could change with temperatures, print speed and filament type but by experience I never change it once it’s set with the exception of flexible filament where you turn off retraction. You could also have over extrusion calibrate your extrusion and if it is still doing it on the Benchy lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4% czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html
@@Franks3Dshop I find solution. i just up the level temp. All my test si with 195°C on the pilars. i Up at 215°C for the boat 3DBenchy. For "lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4%", you mean about the valeur of "extrusion multiplier" in Simplify3D?
Hi Frank, Hello from Australia. I have recently purchased the Ender3 Pro and am getting to know it, I am new to 3d printing. I am using PLA+ and am getting a perfect print but with extremely fine stringing, almost like a spiders web. The poles are perfect, have tried changing temps up to 215 with the same results. Also tried changing the quality but settled on .15mm. Retract at 5 and 40mm. Have changed the .4 nozzle for a new one with same results. Am I expecting to much from my machine.
Hi! I would check if the extrusion is calibrated like in this video czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html also verify that you have no extrusion multiplier in your slicer. If you use Cura you can also play with the Combing settings. Hope it helps.
Hi, retraction is only affected by the size of the extruder gears, layer height as no effect on it your slicer will compensate. Combing is good in my experience, it could make for a longer print time depending on the model, it is not nescessary if you have linear advance active and adjusted.
I have a Monoprice Select Mini V1. I tried doing what you said to do, but looking at the printer, it doesn't look like it is actually pulling filament back in. Any ideas? Thanks.
Can you please tell that what settings should i use with repetier host, cura engine. I have doubled the retraction i.e 40 to 80 and dropped down the temp from 210 to 195 for my extruder but still got no success. I am confused with retraction distance and min extrusion distance can you please suggest what can be the issue??
40mm seems a lot to me, is it speed you are talking about? Maybe you are not setting the retraction distance but the speed of it. For speed I use around 25mm/s to 40mm/s. For retraction distance, 0.8mm of retraction with my direct drive and 4mm of retraction for a Bowden setup. Also check the Combing setting in Cura, if it is set to « All » change it to « Off » or « NoSkin », I use noSkin most of the time. Tell me if it helps.
Hi, great video! BUT. I have bigger problem. my retraction setting almost does'nt work. You did'nt tell about the travel speed, travel acceleration, jerk, ext. acceleration. What about this parameters? My setting are, pretty well setted up, but still have oozing. hundreds of prints, and still the same, changing retraction distance or speed do almost any results.
HI, for the speed 25-30mm/s is about right, if you still get oozing check your extrusion calibration I have a video on this czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html and if you have printed a lot, I suggest trying a new nozzle it gets larger during normal use and can lead to oozing, also if you print with glow in the dark or filament with wood or metal in it, you need to use a hardened nozzle because those are really abrasive.
Hi, I did not see any difference between PETG and PLA, if you have a long tube bringing the filament to the hot end, just prime the nozzle before starting a print it will compensate for the stringiness, generally the longer the tube, the longer the retraction you need.
Humm PETG needs almost no part cooling I get mine to 30%, temperature needs to be higher 240 is a good middle range. Than calibrate you flow rate and make sure your nozzle is up to spec as for the hole diameter.
Excelent explanation. I have a problem and i think that this is my problem, maybe a retraction calibration. I'm trying to print with PETG material and i cant control correctly the filament move (when the material is pushing down, goes back.. making a sound like a cough) So, sometimes, i could find a solution increasing the extrusor temperature but it's a problem to find a impression quality. Thanks for your time, you have a great channel and you are very didactic. Greetings from argentina.
Hi, great to be of help, what you are describing could be a clog, I would do 4-5 cold pulls to clear it out, I have a couple of videos about that: How to Clean a 3D Printer Nozzle czcams.com/video/hBkTeXxcFi8/video.html Monoprice Mini - How To Clear a Nozzle Jam Easily czcams.com/video/8zsV_FN-y4o/video.html CR-10S Unclogging The Nozzle czcams.com/video/qUJgMbY6QMo/video.html
Also depending on the printer you have, PETG could be hard to print, the higher temperature may melt the PTFE lining inside the hot end, that is what happened on one of my printers.
Thanks for the 'complete' example, everyone else out there ONLY shows the not enough retraction with stringing. But not whats happens in the other direction.
Thank you, glad it is of help to you!
hello,
I have the same printer,
I was wondering if you were able to find a solution for it?
Thank you
exactly what i was going to say, would of saved me a lot of time if i saw this before i spent time playing with retraction
This is one of the most simplest and usefull tutorials about retraction, and I agree with orbitalair, there is alot of people talking about the retraction in one direction ( not enought ) but this is equal important about to not exceed, and you shows excellent, thanks man! best regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Finally am explanation that makes sense! I now know that my retraction is set to high and how I can fix it.
Thank you very much for keeping it simple!
Thank you for these examples. when i did custom retraction i put too much retraction on and had no idea why it was so brittle. Now its perfect
I have just the stringing problem with my first 3D printer.
Thanks to your clear and to the point explanation it solved my issue straight away.
It makes me happy that it helped you! Thank you.
Perfect explanation and so easy to understand and by showing the results I just found my problem.
Thank's man this fixed all of my problems that I was thinking was extrusion problem
Simple and clear, thanks for the video frank.
This video helped me IMMENSLEY. Thank you so much!
Great stuff sir! I just put a Microswiss end on my MK8 and was lost as to why quality DROPPED, you helped figure that out quick. Great delivery !
Bravo Frank! Merci beaucoup pour cette excellente video!
thank you for the quick and easy explanation of this issue
Awesome quality and format. Good job man. Thanks.
Thank you kindly.
Great Video Frank. Going to Calibrate strings out of this parameter now!
straight forward , thank you very much !
Awesome video !! Thanks for sharing !!
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well.
It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle.
You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament.
Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue
I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
Great idea thank you, put it on the list, now got to find time to do more videos!
@@Franks3Dshop have you made this video yet :)
Is this still around? I can’t find it.
so what do you set Extra Retraction Ratio to????
very useful and without all the hype!
Thanks, Frank. I used the retraction settings used by others who had the same printer as me. It worked great as there was no stringing in the test print but I had some bumps along the side of one of the towers. Thinking it may have been caused by too much retraction I reduced the setting by 0.5mm and my next test print with the towers was perfect. :)
That’s the way to do it!
Simple and well explained , cheers.
Excellent videos as always!
This is so simple tutorial, i'll try it out thanks sir!
Very clear explanation, I appreciate it very much! 👍
Content de voir un channel d'un québécois qui imprime en 3D. Ton anglais est vraiment bon mais il y a quelque chose dans l'accent qui m'a fait douté, c'est la plaque du Québec sur ton mur qui m'a fait réaliser. Tu as un nouvel abonné.
Clear and concise. Thank you
The video is very helpful, Thank you..
Thank you, simple yet effective. Much appreciated!
although there are already many people who said the same, thanks a bunch for showing too much retraction
Thank you very much for this video!
Thats actually super interesting for me right now, I have not seen an example like the third. Just swapped to a smaller nozzle and tried a similar test print but it actually broke while printing (it was pretty small tho). But your third example seems promising, I will completly turn off retraction and then work my way up again
One of the most helpful series of videos!
Thank you!
Frank's 3D shop I was wondering, I have a blockage on my MP select mini V2. I’ve tried a cold pull, but it either snaps off to a flat point or it doesn’t remove anything. Any tips?
Me too today! What I did is remove the heat bloc from the heat break, used pliers to hold the heat bloc, than did the cold pull without everything else in the way...
That is maybe extreme, you can also just disconnect the PTFE tube from the hot end, than do your cold pull from there, it’s hard to get the cold pull over all of that tubing, you have to be really fast so that it does not bloc inside the long tube when it gets colder and solidifies.
Frank's 3D shop thanks!
Nice. This will probably be my first print test once I get my printer set up. I downloaded the String Test file, except followed the Remix link and got the one with the smaller base for faster printing.
+Duck Landes good idea, should have done that to for speed.
Thank you from France !
Merci beaucoup du Québec :-)
thank you. i kept wondering why my brand new expensive extruder (titan aero) kept looking so bad, like the third one. it was driving me nuts. but now i know why!
Thanks man.. save my life!
Thank you for your video!
Thanks for the help mate
Je reconnais cet accent ! Merci pour le video, tres pratique !
thanks for this now im printing better!!
Very good video!
Thank u for the information 👍🏻😁
thank you!
Awesome video but I didn't get when to add or subtract? It would help to know with the retraction DISTANCE setting for example In the case of STRINGING(not enough retraction) do you ADD or SUBTRACT from the RETRACTION DISTANCE?
cool video, thank you
I enjoyed this short video 😃
+Brayam Gomez Thank you!
I'm struggling with mine I'm trying to print slik and it's not coming out shiny like I have seen so is this my retraction coasting or my flow multiplayer I haven't got my coasting set high bec if it's higher than 0.006 I get holes in my prints
Thanks for this video, I like its short and very understandable, I think I am missing a little explanation about the two new parameters so users can know which one to rise or low and the interaction between them.
hi i have a question. you mentioned to play around with the retraction distance. should the retraction speed be left constant?
3:42 best Borat interpretation :D
Great video, thanks for sharing friend :)
I use high levels of retraction (like 10 to 100 )and 100speed but I get fillament strings! What should I do?
I still can't understand is Retraction Extra Prime a good feature for rigid plastics? How is it vs Coasting or it can be used in the combination? The Ultimaker's doc says just few phrases about this feature. Is the positive stays to suck in the filament or it need to be set to -0.** value?
Easy to understand. Thank you so much. I'm so annoy with oozing issue
I just wonder that you said "Chao" in Vietnamese at the end of the video! So cool.
Humm it’s more like chow like the italians, but I am glad to know that chao is also in Vietnamese, I only know goodnight in Vietnamese.
Thank you!
I like the one with the stringing... its pretty.
Not when the strings get all over your bed :P
Very interesting point. Maybe this can be used as a technique.
I thought that, it looks intentional because of the detail and how symmetrical the pattern is. You could beaten the towers by hand and it would be a cool decorative piece 👍
i am currently using the same printer in this video... i have had to set mt retraction to 7 and speed to 70, just not to get this spider silk style stringing. 7 sounds a bit too much but the stringing is not fully gone. any other ideas on what may be happening.
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
Million thanks for your comment. You made me realise what I was doing wrong and why my all metal was clogging all the time. I don't even know why I set 3mm on it... it always created this plug that clogged the filament.
Hey, i just mounted a new heatbreak and ran into the mentioned issues. I don't know what's the cold end tho, would you mind explaining it to me? Thank you very much!
@@BlackBunik Bi-metal heatbreak here, I have the same problem... What retraction setting did you end on?
Mine is like the one with too much but also had bad stringing blobs
Yea thanks mann... Looks like my retraction distance is too long...
Did your 4mm at 40mm/sec works better ?
i wish you said what settings you used for the middle string test that turned out really nice.
On the Monoprice mini I use 4 mm of retraction at 25 mm/s
tanks man !!!!
Great videos Frank! From the first video I watched from your channel it was obvious to me that you know what you're talking about. Keep them coming!
Sure will!
It will help examples... Like how much I should change the values... What was your values for the three models... Thanks!
Hi, they were really far from what is used normally to show the extremes. For direct drive printers with the motor just over the extruder it is around 1mm of retraction and with Bowden tube setups it’s like 4mm or more depending on the length of the tube, speed is around 25mm/s to 40
Thank u so much for the helpful info. ! !
If anybody can help me with my problem tho, I am printing hydrogel with air pressure based extruder and printing simple shapes like a cylinder.
The thing is that the initial amount of extrusion when the pressure starts to apply and the rest of the extrusion amount as air pressure valve stays open.
Can I solve this problem with ooze settings like common PLA printing settings?
Nice video Frank. I am using flsun f3 printer and having same problem.. and use slic3r can you suggest setting for the same??
Hi, since you have a bowden tube feeding the hot end, setting should around 4-10 mm/s from my experience.
4:21 CooOOoL!
What was your setting parameters?
Good video!!!!!!
Apart from retraction Distance, any effect by adjusting travel speed and Z Hop when retracted?
Yes and no, Z Hop can help but it adds time, moving really slow on moves would also impact this.
Hi Frank, wich are the settings that you use for retraction for the monoprice mini V2?. Thanks for the videos.
I use 5mm and 25mm/s myself
What were your settings for the 3 tower examples? So we can get an example of what was too much.
Hi, if I remember, I went really far to be able to get those camera friendly results, the important thing is to know if you are over or under and do some tests to get the optimal setting. Do an extrusion calibration before that.
Thanks, just dialed in my retraction on my ender 3 which has a V6 on it, I went from too much, to too little, to just right, good examples
Which are your settings??
@@jonnysins7249 ended up being about 0.65mm, as a note I have a DD BMG on it which is why it is so low
Really grateful for your examples.
I dont suppose you have a video on how speed of retraction is related etc. I.e the 3 adjustables you added.
Hi, no I do not have a video on that, but speed is less of an issue, between 25 and 40 mm/s seems good for PLA on either Bowden or direct feed extruder.
Hi Frank, I got my printer working pretty well with your help, but Ive run into some problems I need your advice on...when I printed the 30mm to 40mm fan adapter you had listed on my mini, the print only completed about two thirds of the way and was very thin and brittle. The top broke away from the base so I'm slicing the file again and I'm going to try it again. Ive had a few prints that have come out thin and not complete. Not sure whats going on...any suggestions? Thanks, Richard Jackson
Hi, it could be your extrusion calibration, mine was off had to issue a M92 E111 and a M500 on the printer (look at my video on PID Autotune to know how), that would be my first suggestion, try that first. Use my video about extrusion to verify the setting.
And get back to me about this, please.
Extrusion problems
czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html
Auto PID Tuning Heat Bed Calibration.
czcams.com/video/YpWCKNagjuI/video.html
Which printer do you have exactly ?
I have a Monoprice Mini V2, a Hictop 3DP11, and I almost have finish a Prusa clone with with a 3030 aluminum extruded frame called Haribo.
What about retraction speed? How do you determine the optimal setting for that?
I would start at 25mm/s you can go higher as long as the stepper motor does not skip, usually for most printer it’s around 20-40 mm/s
Is 'Retraction' how much it lifts the extruder from the current layer, or is retraction how much it reverse feeds the filament - similar to releasing pressure on a culk gun so it doesn't ooze out the end?
Hi, it's the reverse feed to prevent oozing when moving to another area of the print.
Thanks for video! May be you found ratio between speed and distance (for exp. your setup 4mm 40mm/s, my default 6.5mm 25mm/s)?
Hi, I would say use what works for you, make the test as I did and you will have your answer! Thanks for the comment.
One more question, distance and speed depends on type of material? ABS, PLA...
It’s mostly how the printer extruder is situated, on Bowden Tube setup when the extruder is far from the hot end, you need more retraction distance to compensate for the slack in the tube. Speed is key to stringing and blobs, it has to be fast enough to stop the oozing. Material like flexibles, you have to disable retraction because of the elasticity.
You could also have gone into how you can adjust retraction on the fly, mid-print by having firmware retraction enabled.
I see all these videos explaining retraction pretty well but none really talk about how speed affects the print. Is there a source I can tap into gay explains this?
Hi Frank thanks for the video! Which retraction distance and speed are you using for the test?
I was playing with temperature, and I also enabled the experimental coasting feature in cura
I'm getting the lovely combination of not enough retraction and too much at the same time. I'm at my wits end. no settings seem to be right. its been a year :(
Hi, first calibrate extrusion czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html than if you have a bowden tube feeding the extruder use 5 to 8 mm at 30mm/s of retraction, if it’s a direct drive extruder use 1mm or less of retraction at 30mm/s, than the temperature influence also the stringing, try 200C and if you have stringing, lower it by 5 degrees at a time down to 190 minimum. Bad PLA can also cause some problems, here in Canada I get good results with Amz3D PLA.
sa sens le quebec en criss j'aime vrm sa
merci
Pas mal Québec oui
@@Franks3Dshop salut Frank 3d shop J'ai bien aimé ta video.. but j'ai une ender 3 ! et j'aimerai avoir la distance de rétractation et la vitesse !!! merci
Salut, avec un long tube pour amener le filament commence par 5mm à une vitesse de 25mm/s et ajuster plus ou moins la longueur. Une fois trouver le bon ajustement tu pourras essayer un peu plus vite et voir l’effet sur la finition...
COOL!
Hello Frank how can I download this print so I can practice I'm very new and you have helped a lot.
Mike
look at description
thank me later
thanks for these tips. I did the tests on the pillars to find the right settings. But on the boat it doesn't work. if I understood correctly, the parameters of retraction must be done on each project?
Hi, no retraction could change with temperatures, print speed and filament type but by experience I never change it once it’s set with the exception of flexible filament where you turn off retraction. You could also have over extrusion calibrate your extrusion and if it is still doing it on the Benchy lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4% czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html
@@Franks3Dshop I find solution. i just up the level temp. All my test si with 195°C on the pilars. i Up at 215°C for the boat 3DBenchy.
For "lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4%", you mean about the valeur of "extrusion multiplier" in Simplify3D?
Yes exactly the extrusion mutiplier
@@Franks3Dshop Than you for your time
Hi Frank, Hello from Australia. I have recently purchased the Ender3 Pro and am getting to know it, I am new to 3d printing. I am using PLA+ and am getting a perfect print but with extremely fine stringing, almost like a spiders web. The poles are perfect, have tried changing temps up to 215 with the same results. Also tried changing the quality but settled on .15mm. Retract at 5 and 40mm. Have changed the .4 nozzle for a new one with same results. Am I expecting to much from my machine.
Hi! I would check if the extrusion is calibrated like in this video czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html also verify that you have no extrusion multiplier in your slicer. If you use Cura you can also play with the Combing settings. Hope it helps.
thanks
Hi, omg at least you may leave some values for both distance and speed for PLA. anyway thanks i see clearly that i have not enough retraction :)
I assume that I need to re adjust if I change layer heights and or print print speed.
Should I have combing off/on
Hi, retraction is only affected by the size of the extruder gears, layer height as no effect on it your slicer will compensate. Combing is good in my experience, it could make for a longer print time depending on the model, it is not nescessary if you have linear advance active and adjusted.
I have a Monoprice Select Mini V1. I tried doing what you said to do, but looking at the printer, it doesn't look like it is actually pulling filament back in. Any ideas? Thanks.
Hi it could be a setting in your slicer, the printer is able to go both ways for sure...
Frank's 3D shop ok, thanks!
liked the video, liked the beard, subscribed! :)
Same
Hi, at which speed do you pint? also it changes the retraction setting?
Hi, I usually print at 50mm/s on the mini, 60 on my other printers, it should not impact retraction.
Can you please tell that what settings should i use with repetier host, cura engine. I have doubled the retraction i.e 40 to 80 and dropped down the temp from 210 to 195 for my extruder but still got no success. I am confused with retraction distance and min extrusion distance can you please suggest what can be the issue??
40mm seems a lot to me, is it speed you are talking about? Maybe you are not setting the retraction distance but the speed of it. For speed I use around 25mm/s to 40mm/s.
For retraction distance, 0.8mm of retraction with my direct drive and 4mm of retraction for a Bowden setup.
Also check the Combing setting in Cura, if it is set to « All » change it to « Off » or « NoSkin », I use noSkin most of the time.
Tell me if it helps.
Hi, great video! BUT. I have bigger problem. my retraction setting almost does'nt work.
You did'nt tell about the travel speed, travel acceleration, jerk, ext. acceleration. What about this parameters?
My setting are, pretty well setted up, but still have oozing. hundreds of prints, and still the same, changing retraction distance or speed do almost any results.
HI, for the speed 25-30mm/s is about right, if you still get oozing check your extrusion calibration I have a video on this czcams.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/video.html and if you have printed a lot, I suggest trying a new nozzle it gets larger during normal use and can lead to oozing, also if you print with glow in the dark or filament with wood or metal in it, you need to use a hardened nozzle because those are really abrasive.
Does this include extra stringiness from such as PETG?
Hi, I did not see any difference between PETG and PLA, if you have a long tube bringing the filament to the hot end, just prime the nozzle before starting a print it will compensate for the stringiness, generally the longer the tube, the longer the retraction you need.
Excelente
recommendations on less blobbing on petg with cura settings?
Humm PETG needs almost no part cooling I get mine to 30%, temperature needs to be higher 240 is a good middle range. Than calibrate you flow rate and make sure your nozzle is up to spec as for the hole diameter.
For PLA 4/40 is normal. For PETG with its ductility, the speed must be reduced, the length must be raised.
Heyyy that's my Metroid Ship :)
+MrFearlesskiller Yep Christmas is coming
Excelent explanation.
I have a problem and i think that this is my problem, maybe a retraction calibration.
I'm trying to print with PETG material and i cant control correctly the filament move (when the material is pushing down, goes back.. making a sound like a cough)
So, sometimes, i could find a solution increasing the extrusor temperature but it's a problem to find a impression quality.
Thanks for your time, you have a great channel and you are very didactic.
Greetings from argentina.
Hi, great to be of help, what you are describing could be a clog, I would do 4-5 cold pulls to clear it out, I have a couple of videos about that:
How to Clean a 3D Printer Nozzle
czcams.com/video/hBkTeXxcFi8/video.html
Monoprice Mini - How To Clear a Nozzle Jam Easily
czcams.com/video/8zsV_FN-y4o/video.html
CR-10S Unclogging The Nozzle
czcams.com/video/qUJgMbY6QMo/video.html
Also depending on the printer you have, PETG could be hard to print, the higher temperature may melt the PTFE lining inside the hot end, that is what happened on one of my printers.
thx
if im using tpu should i expect more stringing
With TPU you usually can not use retraction.