I'm not a wood working junkie I was looking for a little paste wax info. After watching this video I wanted to make a career change then I woke up and remembered I'm 59. That ship has long sailed away.
Thanks foor the video. Glad to see someone else likes that raw wood feel in your hands. Been using BLO and Paste Wax for about 40 years now. Great wood finish for tools.
I work in the insurance/assessment and demolition industry, and I want to thank you for mentioning the rags and spontaneous combustion. Many of the big fires my company works with are caused by spontaneous combustion.
oh ya. I actually have 2 videos showing it happening. I regularly get comments from people that do not believe it can happen. It takes very specific circumstances, but unfortunately those specific circumstances are a wadded up rag in a can.
Great video! Thanks for talking about the combustion properties. I've seen a few videos and they say to be careful with this product. I myself tend to throw old oil rags with mild oil in the wash to reuse, then hang them to dry. I threw one of these rags in the wash and ran it through 3 times, then my wife accidently threw the load in the dryer and we almost burned our house down. RIP New Dryer :/. I like the finish of linseed oil. I like using it on wine barrel projects.
Did this today already had one coat of linseed oil on the day before. I applied another coat of store bought linseed oil let it soak and this took a while . Then I wiped off the oil that didn't soak in. Then I waited a few hours and applied a coat of pastes wax and waited ten minutes and went over the wood with a torch flame for a few seconds an watched it soften up an then let it sit for fifteen minutes. Then I hand buffed it then repeated the application and torch softening. I buffed after waiting again and it came out great.
Thanks! Exactly what I needed. I was doing some quick Walnut wall brackets to hold an oooold wood slalom waterski of my mom’s and I knew I’d never get to it if I didn’t do it quick. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks!
I've been using a blended oil finish with for years then apply a carnauba/beeswax hard paste wax on top. Lots of effort but brings the best out of any timber grain. If you want the same effect but don't want to blend your own then Liberon Finishing Oil is one of the best commercial blends and is one of my go-to blends. For wax, I use either Alfie Shine hard paste carnauba or Liberon Black Bison wax and build up 3 to 5 coats over the oil finish once oxidised. There's no better way of finishing projects imho. For better water resistance or wear resistance then hard wax oils are the things to use. You can apply these over finishing oil finishes but not over wax.
I was shown how to make a linspeed finish when I was a teen in the 60s by an old gunsmith. I add turps and artist tint (oil based of course) burnt umber for a gunstock that had plastic finish that had lifted. A traditional hand rubbed oil finish and it came out well enough that at a range a fellow shooter refused to believe that I had done this myself. This is a lot less work and I will play with this very soon. Thank you.
I have been working with the Bees Wax and Caruba Wax and oil finish......its the only finish Ive used on my handles other than a light weight shellac.....always loved Howards and now I have Pita's.
I remembered that i used blo without gloves and had an uh oh moment. Then remembered I'm a mechanic that gets everything from gas to oil to brake fluid and brake clean on my hands daily.. great video and great advice! Thank you!
I like your blo and paste wax finish I used that on a diston saw restoration. I followed your saw restoration instructions in your other video. I experimented with it on a lathe project and used blo and coconut oil in lieu of paste wax turned out well.
I use this process on old wood cabinets - and type cases in my print shop. Most of them were unfinished when they were made - some as much as 100 years ago. I don't want to "refinish" them, but I do like to give them some protection and make them look a bit nicer than the old, dry wood I start with.... The linseed oil does put life back into old, dry wood. I also use the feed 'n' wax to refresh the finish now and then. It makes the old wood look good and helps me to keep it clean. Thanks for letting me know I have been doing the right thing...
nicely presented ....and LOVE the workshop utility apron.. I'm working to make an Elm dining room table ..straight from the tree (after 4 yrs seasoning) so this was invaluable to obtain a lustrous finish thanks again
My older brother and I used BLO on guitar fingerboards in his music store back in the early '70s. I don't think we ever worried about it getting on our fingers. Feed & Wax will be my next application on my current guitar boards.
Great video! I always trying to use natural chemicals, like Linen seed oil in the first place, after about 10-15 years it's a huge different seen to how it affect the wood compared to syntetic stuff.
nicely done on this video sir. i love it. love the idea of home brew linseed oil with out all the chemicals, thanks for the reminder it can burst into flames. I've sat my trash can in the middle of the yard at times un the past heheheheh, thanks again, we let all the commercials roll, big thumbs up dale
Hey James, good info. I've used blo as a base, sealer, " grain popper " Then after its had time to dry, I've put a oil based poly finish ( 3 to 4 coats) . Worked out pretty good.
One of my favourite finishes too. I have made up my own BLO/Bees wax blend which is nice too, and a paste wax/3 in 1 oil blend for my iron and steel tools.
nice. I just like yo apply the BLO separately so it can soak in more but that is just me being weird. I like the 3n1 mix idea. I am going to have to try that.
Here's a tip that I've learned recently. Use Teflon thread tape on any place like your jar threads to help seal them, but at same time make it easier to remove the lids. Also enjoyed your video, as I'm still trying to learn about wood finishes. Thanks db
Another excellent video. Love it. I too love the scent of linseed oil. Wish I had access to the raw stuff, like you have, as I'd love to rub it in without gloves.
About 5 years ago I watched this video to learn more about finishing techniques in restoring old gun stocks. Today, I have restored over 200 stocks using this method and made almost 100k doing so as a side hobby to save money for my sons college! This is an incredible video!
This sort of approach is great for food safe finishes as well, on turned items like bowls & platters (although, obviously make sure your BLO & wax is food safe / chemical free).
Good video and happy I've found this channel. I'm a big fan of the Feed & Wax, too. Use it on my bench and other work surfaces for maintenance. For hand tools, I prefer shellac and wax.
In the days before the advent of Loctite, old timers used BLO as a thread-locker too. I've been using it for decades on my machine and tool surfaces, here in Florida the humidity is legendary, but it holds up very well.
Hi, I just found you channel and have subscribed . I enjoyed your information and appreciate your easy going manner, nothing pretentious like some of the "celebrity" wood workers who are so full of themselves.
I have a ton of experience with linseed oil and wax. Bottom line, it works well enough inside, but outside in the sun/wind/rain fuggetaboutit. I live down in Mexico, in just a few months it looks like bare unfinished wood. The best exterior finish we have found is a Canadian product, Permachink... zero VOC, non toxic, developed to finish and seal log cabins... Canadian winter, Baja summer, Permachink takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.
That was a delightfully quick answer. My husband and I are pouring our life savings into an old farmhouse and have wood questions in several areas. For example, we have patched the old maple floor. Once it's sanded, then what? And what about the Ash stair treads and risers. And the ash ceiling in the stairwell? Especially the ceiling--we don't want to do any maintenance once it's installed. Thank you for referencing Rubio monocote. That is apparently a good floor product.
Rubio monocote is actually originally made as a floor finish. incredibly easy to put down and nice flat finish. if you want more gloss and a bit more durable then I would go with Waterlox. Here is a video of me putting it down. czcams.com/video/MopMGkqaiPM/video.html
I finished a walnut coffee table with 6+ coats of tung oil 20 years ago and it still looks great! IMHO, poly is difficult to apply without it looking like plastic.
I have been experimenting with melted wax finishes lately. Using a heat gun and a rag, it applies easy and soaks in deep takes a bit more time but only needs one application. I am trying it on allot of my laser etched pictures because it is easy to re-flow and buff and it isn't picking up as much laser dust.
Wood By Wright i have tried polyurethane.looks good at first but after a while, it breaks down,with linseed oil ,it's durable and dependable and leave a natural look and feel which is very important to the customers!
Hey James! Great video. Have you ever considered using a double boiler to melt the wax into the oil and turn it into one finish? I have done this using beeswax and tung oil as well as beeswax and mineral oil. It works great and is much easier to work into the surface than straight paste wax.
yup. I have several mixes of my own paste wax. I still like to apply them separately just to let the oil completely soak in but they are a lot of fun to experiment with. I am hoping to have a video soon on some of the different mixes I use.
Fair enough appreciate the fast response i was thinking it Coul make him Money but with todays world the way it is he is probably doing a smart business move the market is probably too small to compete with the big box stores. Like so many other things in our world It wont be long untill there are no incentives for the little guy to have a good. Product and be able to find a market to support it ? People like Walmart and Home Depot have so much buying power no one can compete other than Amazon these days its quickly going to become a boring world if everything. Continues on that path i just had that conversation with my 31 year old daughter and she agreed that her generation Thought that one kind of wrong and the internet may have moved too fast but it is what it is
Looking to certain & sell a beehive, therefore natural/ nontoxic. Unfortunately doing is more than I can do as a new beek. I've seen things like BLO-Turpenine- beeswax (old recipe that Boy Scouts use?) , and am wondering a blending of techniques for my needs. Something like using Tung Oil-Wax (maybe use the microcrystaline &/or parafin?) Also, treating with Eco Wood, then vinegar- steel wool stain?
I would like you to try something a little different with your paste wax... I have been using BLO and topping with commercial paste wax, I have found that adding Kiwi shoe polish in a brown/oxblood or black, helps the drying, adds a tone to the finish, applies smoother and buffs higher... I melt the paste wax in boiling water and add the can of shoe polish, no mixing necessary, blends completely on its own, I am very pleased with this concoction.
Nice way to finish wood. I'd also suggest trying to combine (via a warm mixture) the BLO & PW, then using high grit sand paper (like 1000 grit) to work it into the wood, letting it soak & wiping it off. Do that 2 to 3 times, then buff it up. Great work................Steve
Thanks. I have tried similar methods but I prefer to apply the Blo separately that just seems to soak in further. but everyone has their favorite. I think there are more ways of doing it then there are people. LOL
I have a vintage Boelter metal -clad wood Carpenters box that I am restoring and I was thinking of just sanding and shellacking it but after this video I’m thinking more like I should use your boiled linseed oil/wax for the interior instead. Wish I could send you pictures of it.
James, very informative video! Thanks for the time to make it. I have a question on the paste wax. I practice aikido and we use wooden weapons made of various types of hardwood (red or white oak is most common). Our bokken (wooden sword)and jo (wooden staff) occasionally need to be resurfaced and after sanding we use boiled linseed oil. But we've never used the paste wax. The BLO gives it a great looking finish and really makes the wood grain pop, but as these are used in contact with other wooden weapons in training they can take a bit of abuse. Do you think that applying a coating of paste wax would be a benefit at all?
Hey, love your videos. I just build a work bench. I'd like to give it some kind of protection from glues, oils etc. But I don't want that glossy/slippery finish. Is this method something you would recommend?
I have question concerning finishing walking sticks and hiking staffs. I am new to stick making and ask those who have more experience advice. I mostly work with Hazel and Blackthorn right now. For the most part I leave the bark on and let dry a year or 2. What would you recommend using as a finish considering it would be used for much outdoor use in different types of weather. Any ideas? I use BLO and sometimes yacht varnish but perhaps you also have a good idea. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the excellent video! do you know the advantages and disadvantages of using raw linseed oil compared to boiled? my sister bought the oil specifically to condition outside tool handles but she got the raw one. we'd like to use it, since it's too late to return it to the store. ...is it just that it dries more slowly? if that's the case i can just wait to treat the tools and let them dry over the winter. Thanks
Basically the big difference is that they dry slower. however some people like raw linseed oil as it doesn't have the chemical dryers that come with the store bought BLO
This is a great video and helped me progress past a single or double coat of Danish Oil and calling it done. It's all very new to me so I'm watching a number of your videos. One question, I have made a couple of outdoor projects I've left mostly unfinished, however I have a swing seat that I'm keen to protect. I've personalised the top and would like to protect it but as it will be a gift, apply a finish that will be long lasting but still allow the wood grain and personalised lettering burnt in to show through. Any recommendations as I guess BLO won't last..... thanks again!
Thanks Rob that means a lot. for an outdoor finish, I generally suggest getting a decking sealer that will last you a cople years before it needs to be redone. other than that a marine varnish or an epoxy might buy you another year or two, but then it costs 3 times as much.
It is. Once I found out you were also a big fan of BLO, you topped my "favorite" list! HAHA. Glad to follow you. My wife loves her little box from firewood I made, which came from your idea. Was some fun chisel work !
After an extended period of time (years) BLO will eventually give a good smooth finish as it polymerizes and self levels. It's the sort of "human finish" that really old tools have. it's sort of like seasoning a cast iron pan, but with wood.
@@MikeJ-pw7ig No, but both an aged linseed oil coating and the coating on your cast iron pans are polymerized oils. That's what makes them water resistant, and in some cases even waterproof. Aside from aesthetics, water resistance is a major reason why wood is finished with oil to begin with.
I use Howard's Feed 'N' Wax on my guitars. It seems to keep the nitrocellulose laquer from becoming brittle. My "homemade" guitars get Violin Varnish but all my tool get BLO/Paste Wax. My paste wax is a mixture of beewax, carnuba wax, orange oil, raw tung oil. The recipe is a consistency thing for me but guessing I would say 75% beeswax, 15% carnuba wax, 2% orange oil, 3% raw tung oil. I use the orange oil to soften the carnuba wax. I do it by "feel."
Hi one of the things I have found that works well for me is blo plus bees wax 60/40 I rub this in to my hand planes and wood surfaces. I took Paul Sellers oil rag in can and modified this to 40/60 and I wipe it on the planes soul as required. This works for me, and he'll I just a weekend warrior.
Thanks for taking your time to read my comment/inquiry. I've purchased two Douglas Fir anorak chairs. The manual recommended using BLO to protect the unsealed stained finish. The chairs will be used regularly outdoors in the warm Southern California weather. Should I use the BLO with paste? If no, you suggested a poly if heavily used. Sorry, I'm a newbie so I'm not familiar with various terms. Did you mean polyurethane as poly? If yes, any poly recommendations if BLO with paste doesn't work for Douglas Fir anorak chairs?
I would not use Poly (polyurethane) outside as most do not do well in sun light. the most durable finish for out doors is a marine varnish. like this one. amzn.to/2w1Obnc that will look great for a year to 5 years depending on use but will need to be refinished from time to time. BLO and paste wax is the old way of doing it. it does not last long but it is SO MUCH easier to repair and re coat. you do not have to scrape off the old stuff to refinish it you just re apply it. but you need to do it more. 6 months - 1 year apart depending on use. Just once the finish starts looking poor. and yes you would do it just like this pore on the BLO let it soak in then rub in the wax to fill the poors. hope that helps. if you have more questions send me an email as I do not see reply.
Hi, nice video. One question please. I use snooker cue, over time grains on ash cue raise and pores can be felt while cueing. I have to send it to cue makers for refinish to get it smoother again. Any idea , how to fill those grains and smooth the cue? Thanks.
Wood By Wright .. thanks.. I tried today myself, mixed boiled linseed oil, ting oil, & white wax polish (kiwi polish).. lol.. I will update with results. Do how do you refinish your cue? Do you just apply your home made paste wax and it closes pores & grains etc? What you do to resmooth your cue again? Thanks
On Gardening tools if it has a varnished or lacquered handle you will most likely have obtained water blisters on your hands from prolonged use. Sand off the factory finish and apply the boiled linseed oil finish and it is far more comfortable to use. You can also wipe down the metal parts to keep them in good condition as well.
Cheap in the US... plus $68 postage to Australia... :( Happens every time... You guys have so much variety of quality products but the postage makes it prohibitive to buy here. I watch several woodworkers as I am just starting out. From the UK I found Paul Sellers and now in the US I've discovered you. I love the honest down-to-earth sensible, easy to understand, professional approach you have. Thanks Again.
I’m an old bricklayer and we always use linseed oil for our levels. What’s this protecting your hands stuff? When my hands and fingers got mortar stained I mixed some Muriatic acid with water and soaked them in it for a few minutes. It was the only way to remove the stains.
I have a butcher block counter top on my kitchen island. What’s the best finish for that type of application? I currently use just mineral oil, but it dries out so quickly.
I'm wondering about using the paste wax bare handed. On the can I have there's a warning about neurological damage from long term exposure to the solvents. Seems like gloves would be a good idea right?
Thanks for the great video. I'll be a regular now. Would you be able to do a video on the difference between raw and boiled linseed oil. I just can not find any info on this. I am doing a wooden deck and not sure what to coat it with? Thanks again for the nice channel
Here you go. czcams.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/video.html I also have a full series on making your own and a lot more BLO info here. czcams.com/video/MDPLFoWNlV8/video.html
James, a good video as usual. I would like to offer some insight into the use of any of the drying oils. And you made a good point NOT to instruct people on how old fashioned "Boiled" linseed oil is made. Today there is a version called "Polymerized" where the oil is heated in what is more or less a vacuum or at least oxygen free chamber. This is not for the DIY community. Thin coats I have found is much better than soaking or applying 2-3 or more coats the same day. The chemistry is simple, if the oil is applied too thick or to much at once, it will almost never dry and cure. My Motto for 45 years has been: Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then... Once a year there after. Yes, some of my work is actually not ready to go out the door for a year but, if the customer is willing to do the monthly and yearly oiling... then it can go out the door the second month after the first coat of oil is applied. In regards to Paste Wax though... read the ingredients... there is little to no oil in it. What makes the Was a paste is solvents like Mineral Spirits. So, gloves are somewhat a requirement these days. I make my own Paste wax and it is a slower drying one because I use Pure Turps as the solvent and a drying oil as part of my personal blend. Keep up the great work, I hope you do not mind a veteran of 45 years of woodworking chiming in. Walter aka Dusty Splinters
What do you recommend for an outdoor cedar sculpture? I like the look and feel of the BLO and paste wax finish, but want to have UV, moss, mildew protection.
It can bit it will need to be re applied every 6 months or so. Saddle there is no good finish for out doors that leaves the wood grain without getting glossy.
I want to finish a walnut shelf over a computer desk. Because I'll be pulling things off the shelf (like books, etc), would you suggest a poly, or is BLO okay?
that is up to you. BLO and Pastewax leave it looking like wood with no gloss at all but would be sufficient finish for a shelf but some people like the finished look of poly.
Hi James, Great stuff as always. I totally agree with what Bob Hoyle says. It's always better to be down to earth. Is there any difference between Minwax and Johnsons paste wax?
Your dad told me you had gone "hand tool". Glad to find your site. Linda will be excited to see what happened to the little kid who used to make faces at people in church when you were 2 or 3. Nice video. My shop is a 24 X 48 with 24" Delta planer, 24" double drum sander, a 60" stroke sander, 2 RAS, 2 drill presses, two table saw, two 12" chop saws, 2 shapers, and most of the common power tools. Having said that I am finding I can do some things faster and better with hand tools. Keep up the good work.
Great to see you on here! I have so many great memories in your shop. It makes it's way into my videos often as the place where I made my first woodworking project. A Cub Scout Pine Wood Derby car. Are you still at the same place?
Oooops, Linda told me I had you mixed up with your little brother. We built a new House next to where we used to live and 9 years ago added a two story 24 X 48 shop with 10 foot ceilings. Designed it with external ship house so everything from the machines on the second floor goes down under the floor and out to the chip house. First floor is metal working, welders, torches, abrasive chop saw etc. The shop is on a hillside so the top floor is level with my driveway and the lower floor is at ground level on the other side.
do you think it's appropriate for something that will be lightly used or not at all like a frame for a picture. Should it be reapplied every now and then or it should resist on its own to time. thank you
For hand tools it is great because the oils on your hands will keep it bright. for a picture frame you would have to reoil it once a year or so to keep the look. it is not a film finish so for a lot of furniture or anything that would be constantly rubbed it will not protect the wood. does that answer your question?
How will this type of finish work for a potting table that lives either outside or in a humid greenhouse? Should I paint or shellac it instead? Thank you!!
BLO is not a protective finish and will need to be recoated every few months when outside. If you like the look of paint that is the way to go. I would not use shellac outside. It can change colors. in the end if comes down to what type of look do you want on the wood.
You can buy my Paste Wax Here: for More BLO Info: czcams.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/video.html
for More BLO Info: czcams.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/video.html
I'm not a wood working junkie I was looking for a little paste wax info. After watching this video I wanted to make a career change then I woke up and remembered I'm 59. That ship has long sailed away.
It's never too late!!! Follow your heart, everything else will follow! Good luck
Well I'm 58...slowly switching over..
nothing beats the warm glo from a linseed oil finish; true classic finish.
Thanks foor the video. Glad to see someone else likes that raw wood feel in your hands. Been using BLO and Paste Wax for about 40 years now. Great wood finish for tools.
Me too. I add burnt umber oil base artist tint to the mix and the colour is pleasing on most woods.
Thanks for the info!! Finishing woodworking projects is one of the most satisfying and confusing parts, lol, there are so many options!
glad I could help. there are a lot of choices out there.
I work in the insurance/assessment and demolition industry, and I want to thank you for mentioning the rags and spontaneous combustion.
Many of the big fires my company works with are caused by spontaneous combustion.
oh ya. I actually have 2 videos showing it happening. I regularly get comments from people that do not believe it can happen. It takes very specific circumstances, but unfortunately those specific circumstances are a wadded up rag in a can.
For years I have used a handmade mixture of raw BLO, turps and beeswax. smells wonderful!!
A great mix. There are so many recipes out there and everyone has their family.
Enjoy your videos, straight to the point, informative and no bs.
Great video! Thanks for talking about the combustion properties. I've seen a few videos and they say to be careful with this product. I myself tend to throw old oil rags with mild oil in the wash to reuse, then hang them to dry. I threw one of these rags in the wash and ran it through 3 times, then my wife accidently threw the load in the dryer and we almost burned our house down. RIP New Dryer :/. I like the finish of linseed oil. I like using it on wine barrel projects.
WOW! that sounds like a fun day. I have another video where I put them in a box and watch the box catch on fire. not the day you want to have.
Did this today already had one coat of linseed oil on the day before. I applied another coat of store bought linseed oil let it soak and this took a while . Then I wiped off the oil that didn't soak in. Then I waited a few hours and applied a coat of pastes wax and waited ten minutes and went over the wood with a torch flame for a few seconds an watched it soften up an then let it sit for fifteen minutes. Then I hand buffed it then repeated the application and torch softening. I buffed after waiting again and it came out great.
Sounds like a fun day! I always enjoy the finishing part!
Thanks! Exactly what I needed. I was doing some quick Walnut wall brackets to hold an oooold wood slalom waterski of my mom’s and I knew I’d never get to it if I didn’t do it quick. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks!
I've been using a blended oil finish with for years then apply a carnauba/beeswax hard paste wax on top. Lots of effort but brings the best out of any timber grain. If you want the same effect but don't want to blend your own then Liberon Finishing Oil is one of the best commercial blends and is one of my go-to blends. For wax, I use either Alfie Shine hard paste carnauba or Liberon Black Bison wax and build up 3 to 5 coats over the oil finish once oxidised. There's no better way of finishing projects imho. For better water resistance or wear resistance then hard wax oils are the things to use. You can apply these over finishing oil finishes but not over wax.
I was shown how to make a linspeed finish when I was a teen in the 60s by an old gunsmith. I add turps and artist tint (oil based of course) burnt umber for a gunstock that had plastic finish that had lifted. A traditional hand rubbed oil finish and it came out well enough that at a range a fellow shooter refused to believe that I had done this myself. This is a lot less work and I will play with this very soon. Thank you.
I love a well hand rubbed BLO finish on a gun stock. It feels so good.
Downright sensuous. A hand rubbed finish is a lot of work but its near bulletproof and easy to care for. Serious eye candy no doubt.
I have used mineral oil and carnuba wax I LOVE the FEEL of it on my tool handles
+ken taylor very similar finish. Feels great in the hand.
I've been using the paste wax alone here lately but I'm going to try BLO. Thanks for the tips!
+Stuart Arts I love how it brings out the color.
I have been working with the Bees Wax and Caruba Wax and oil finish......its the only finish Ive used on my handles other than a light weight shellac.....always loved Howards and now I have Pita's.
could not agree more! I am going to have to try Pita's some time!
I remembered that i used blo without gloves and had an uh oh moment. Then remembered I'm a mechanic that gets everything from gas to oil to brake fluid and brake clean on my hands daily.. great video and great advice! Thank you!
I like your blo and paste wax finish I used that on a diston saw restoration. I followed your saw restoration instructions in your other video.
I experimented with it on a lathe project and used blo and coconut oil in lieu of paste wax turned out well.
Sweet! Coconut oil is another good one. it will not harden like a Bee's wax base but leaves a great feel.
I use this process on old wood cabinets - and type cases in my print shop. Most of them were unfinished when they were made - some as much as 100 years ago. I don't want to "refinish" them, but I do like to give them some protection and make them look a bit nicer than the old, dry wood I start with.... The linseed oil does put life back into old, dry wood. I also use the feed 'n' wax to refresh the finish now and then. It makes the old wood look good and helps me to keep it clean. Thanks for letting me know I have been doing the right thing...
Nice. Sounds like a lot of love to me!
nicely presented ....and LOVE the workshop utility apron..
I'm working to make an Elm dining room table ..straight from the tree (after 4 yrs seasoning) so this was invaluable to obtain a lustrous finish
thanks again
Thanks! I have 3 elm sabs on my shop floor that will become the dining table soon too. looking forward to what you make!
My older brother and I used BLO on guitar fingerboards in his music store back in the early '70s. I don't think we ever worried about it getting on our fingers. Feed & Wax will be my next application on my current guitar boards.
My favourite woodworking channel, great work
Thanks Jack.
James! Loving this and completely agree!!
Great video! I always trying to use natural chemicals, like Linen seed oil in the first place, after about 10-15 years it's a huge different seen to how it affect the wood compared to syntetic stuff.
so true. love using it on most of my projects.
nicely done on this video sir. i love it.
love the idea of home brew linseed oil with out all the chemicals, thanks for the reminder it can burst into flames. I've sat my trash can in the middle of the yard at times un the past heheheheh,
thanks again, we let all the commercials roll, big thumbs up
dale
A truly “hand rubbed” finish! Great video!!
lol yup.
Hey James, good info. I've used blo as a base, sealer, " grain popper " Then after its had time to dry, I've put a oil based poly finish ( 3 to 4 coats) . Worked out pretty good.
that is what I think I will do on my wife's dresser. I like the color it gives the wood before the poly.
I will have to try this on my carving mallet I made. I hope it makes the color of the handle pop. Thank you for showing this
that is one of the things I love about the oil. it really makes the wood grain come to life with out giving it a gloss.
One of my favourite finishes too. I have made up my own BLO/Bees wax blend which is nice too, and a paste wax/3 in 1 oil blend for my iron and steel tools.
nice. I just like yo apply the BLO separately so it can soak in more but that is just me being weird. I like the 3n1 mix idea. I am going to have to try that.
Here's a tip that I've learned recently. Use Teflon thread tape on any place like your jar threads to help seal them, but at same time make it easier to remove the lids. Also enjoyed your video, as I'm still trying to learn about wood finishes. Thanks db
interesting. I have had good success with petroleum jelly too
maybe some saran wrap would work well also
My man. The real gems are always in the comments.
Another excellent video. Love it. I too love the scent of linseed oil. Wish I had access to the raw stuff, like you have, as I'd love to rub it in without gloves.
Thanks. I do have a video on how to make it.
Good finish, linseed oil, turpentine and varnish in equal quantities is a finish I have used for nearly 40 years but I will give this a go, thanks!
Got to love a good home mix. there are more recipes out there then woodworkers. so many great ways of doing it.
About 5 years ago I watched this video to learn more about finishing techniques in restoring old gun stocks. Today, I have restored over 200 stocks using this method and made almost 100k doing so as a side hobby to save money for my sons college! This is an incredible video!
Thanks man. Sounds like you've been having fun.
Dad always liked these two but he liked adding Danish oil to mix!
Great video, thanks! Looks like the perfect finish for a wood gun stock either rifle or pistol, as of course you are feeling the wood.
Exactly. Traditionally they will use 8-16 coats of BLO and build it up.
This sort of approach is great for food safe finishes as well, on turned items like bowls & platters (although, obviously make sure your BLO & wax is food safe / chemical free).
definitely!
Good video and happy I've found this channel. I'm a big fan of the Feed & Wax, too. Use it on my bench and other work surfaces for maintenance. For hand tools, I prefer shellac and wax.
Right on. it is great how it feels in the hand!
In the days before the advent of Loctite, old timers used BLO as a thread-locker too.
I've been using it for decades on my machine and tool surfaces, here in Florida the humidity is legendary, but it holds up very well.
Interesting! I will have to play with that! it sure does hold the lid to the jar on! LOL
JESUS!!! Gives a whole new meaning to hand finished..
the best kind. LOL
Thank you for the good information! I understand wanting to be able to feel the grain of the wood.
SO true. There are lots of great finishes out there this is just one.
New subscriber. Saw you on Matt's channel & and glad I found you. Thanks for making the videos
Thanks! love hanging out with Matt. just a lot of fun! thanks for the sub!
oh yeah. That Howard's feed n wax is great. refreshing smell too.
+RockYouVideos sure is. Love working with it.
Hey that Feed and wax really helped the table i made pop thanks for the info
Great. I love the smell of that stuff.
Hi, I just found you channel and have subscribed . I enjoyed your information and appreciate your easy going manner, nothing pretentious like some of the "celebrity" wood workers who are so full of themselves.
Thanks Bob. I just like having fun in the shop!
I have a ton of experience with linseed oil and wax. Bottom line, it works well enough inside, but outside in the sun/wind/rain fuggetaboutit. I live down in Mexico, in just a few months it looks like bare unfinished wood. The best exterior finish we have found is a Canadian product, Permachink... zero VOC, non toxic, developed to finish and seal log cabins... Canadian winter, Baja summer, Permachink takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.
Yep that's good stuff I've used it a few times.
That was a delightfully quick answer. My husband and I are pouring our life savings into an old farmhouse and have wood questions in several areas. For example, we have patched the old maple floor. Once it's sanded, then what? And what about the Ash stair treads and risers. And the ash ceiling in the stairwell? Especially the ceiling--we don't want to do any maintenance once it's installed. Thank you for referencing Rubio monocote. That is apparently a good floor product.
Rubio monocote is actually originally made as a floor finish. incredibly easy to put down and nice flat finish. if you want more gloss and a bit more durable then I would go with Waterlox. Here is a video of me putting it down. czcams.com/video/MopMGkqaiPM/video.html
I finished a walnut coffee table with 6+ coats of tung oil 20 years ago and it still looks great! IMHO, poly is difficult to apply without it looking like plastic.
Very true.
Thank you for the advice
Well done video. Easy to understand. Would like to see other types of finishes.
Thanks. I have a few other videos on some of my more common finishes.
I have been experimenting with melted wax finishes lately. Using a heat gun and a rag, it applies easy and soaks in deep takes a bit more time but only needs one application. I am trying it on allot of my laser etched pictures because it is easy to re-flow and buff and it isn't picking up as much laser dust.
right on that works fantasticly!
Thanks a lot for this video. Really, really useful info!
Wright..........love the tutorial my man!
Great work!
+SWEATY PITS thanks. That means a lot!
Wood By Wright
i have tried polyurethane.looks good at first but after a while, it breaks down,with linseed oil ,it's durable and dependable and leave a natural look and feel which is very important to the customers!
I had no idea the paper towels might combust, thanks for that tip.
it needs the right circumstances but they can!
another great video James another thing you can use for buffing out that wax is soft burlap
nice. it seems like everyone has their favorite. also heard paper bags, shoe shining brush, 1000 grit sandpaper, and my new favorite, Human hair.
Thanks James! So you really like oil finishes. 😃😃😃
LOL what would make you think that!
Hey James! Great video. Have you ever considered using a double boiler to melt the wax into the oil and turn it into one finish? I have done this using beeswax and tung oil as well as beeswax and mineral oil. It works great and is much easier to work into the surface than straight paste wax.
yup. I have several mixes of my own paste wax. I still like to apply them separately just to let the oil completely soak in but they are a lot of fun to experiment with. I am hoping to have a video soon on some of the different mixes I use.
sweet! Thanks man!
Maybe you could do a video watching the guy who makes your oil at his facility? Very nice video buddy.
+BearKat Wood I asked him but he does not want the liability. Why I am not using his name. Maybe sometime.
Fair enough appreciate the fast response i was thinking it Coul make him Money but with todays world the way it is he is probably doing a smart business move the market is probably too small to compete with the big box stores. Like so many other things in our world It wont be long untill there are no incentives for the little guy to have a good. Product and be able to find a market to support it ? People like Walmart and Home Depot have so much buying power no one can compete other than Amazon these days its quickly going to become a boring world if everything. Continues on that path i just had that conversation with my 31 year old daughter and she agreed that her generation Thought that one kind of wrong and the internet may have moved too fast but it is what it is
Looking to certain & sell a beehive, therefore natural/ nontoxic. Unfortunately doing is more than I can do as a new beek.
I've seen things like BLO-Turpenine- beeswax (old recipe that Boy Scouts use?) , and am wondering a blending of techniques for my needs.
Something like using Tung Oil-Wax (maybe use the microcrystaline &/or parafin?) Also, treating with Eco Wood, then vinegar- steel wool stain?
I would like you to try something a little different with your paste wax...
I have been using BLO and topping with commercial paste wax, I have found that adding Kiwi shoe polish in a brown/oxblood or black, helps the drying, adds a tone to the finish, applies smoother and buffs higher... I melt the paste wax in boiling water and add the can of shoe polish, no mixing necessary, blends completely on its own, I am very pleased with this concoction.
interesting. I might have to try that some time!
Nice way to finish wood. I'd also suggest trying to combine (via a warm mixture) the BLO & PW, then using high grit sand paper (like 1000 grit) to work it into the wood, letting it soak & wiping it off. Do that 2 to 3 times, then buff it up. Great work................Steve
Thanks. I have tried similar methods but I prefer to apply the Blo separately that just seems to soak in further. but everyone has their favorite. I think there are more ways of doing it then there are people. LOL
I have a vintage Boelter metal -clad wood Carpenters box that I am restoring and I was thinking of just sanding and shellacking it but after this video I’m thinking more like I should use your boiled linseed oil/wax for the interior instead. Wish I could send you pictures of it.
Thanks for the advice I will defiantly use this finish. Congrats on the subscription increase.
thank you and thank you!
James, very informative video! Thanks for the time to make it. I have a question on the paste wax. I practice aikido and we use wooden weapons made of various types of hardwood (red or white oak is most common). Our bokken (wooden sword)and jo (wooden staff) occasionally need to be resurfaced and after sanding we use boiled linseed oil. But we've never used the paste wax. The BLO gives it a great looking finish and really makes the wood grain pop, but as these are used in contact with other wooden weapons in training they can take a bit of abuse. Do you think that applying a coating of paste wax would be a benefit at all?
the paste wax seals the wood pores so they do not dry out too fast. it is not very protective though.
This is content that I do like 🤗
Hey, love your videos. I just build a work bench. I'd like to give it some kind of protection from glues, oils etc. But I don't want that glossy/slippery finish. Is this method something you would recommend?
This is how I finished my bench. It is easy to rejuvenate. And dried glue peels off as long as you don't wipe it in.
Great video. BTW, 10 minute mark: "rubbing it out." LOL.
I have question concerning finishing walking sticks and hiking staffs. I am new to stick making and ask those who have more experience advice. I mostly work with Hazel and Blackthorn right now. For the most part I leave the bark on and let dry a year or 2. What would you recommend using as a finish considering it would be used for much outdoor use in different types of weather. Any ideas?
I use BLO and sometimes yacht varnish but perhaps you also have a good idea.
Thanks in advance.
With the bark I would use a BLO and let it cure into the wood then finish with a marine varnish to protect it.
Thanks for the excellent video!
do you know the advantages and disadvantages of using raw linseed oil compared to boiled? my sister bought the oil specifically to condition outside tool handles but she got the raw one. we'd like to use it, since it's too late to return it to the store.
...is it just that it dries more slowly? if that's the case i can just wait to treat the tools and let them dry over the winter.
Thanks
Basically the big difference is that they dry slower. however some people like raw linseed oil as it doesn't have the chemical dryers that come with the store bought BLO
Thanks for a really good video James!
Thanks Man. love playing with this stuff.
Was thinking of this JUST TODAY!!!! Incredible...thanks...rr
thanks! glad you like it!
Wow! and an INSTANT RESPONSE....cheers...rr from Normandy, France
These are very good tips my friend,I love it awesome video bro :)
thank you! this is my favorite part of the work.
No problem good one bro :)
This is a great video and helped me progress past a single or double coat of Danish Oil and calling it done. It's all very new to me so I'm watching a number of your videos.
One question, I have made a couple of outdoor projects I've left mostly unfinished, however I have a swing seat that I'm keen to protect. I've personalised the top and would like to protect it but as it will be a gift, apply a finish that will be long lasting but still allow the wood grain and personalised lettering burnt in to show through. Any recommendations as I guess BLO won't last..... thanks again!
Thanks Rob that means a lot. for an outdoor finish, I generally suggest getting a decking sealer that will last you a cople years before it needs to be redone. other than that a marine varnish or an epoxy might buy you another year or two, but then it costs 3 times as much.
I use BLO on my wood gun stocks. About 60-70 hand rubbed coats. Comes out like glass in the end with a very good, hard protective surface.
hats off to you. that is dedication right there. but what a nice finish it is.
It is. Once I found out you were also a big fan of BLO, you topped my "favorite" list! HAHA. Glad to follow you. My wife loves her little box from firewood I made, which came from your idea. Was some fun chisel work !
Sweet! thanks. your wife has great taste!
After an extended period of time (years) BLO will eventually give a good smooth finish as it polymerizes and self levels. It's the sort of "human finish" that really old tools have. it's sort of like seasoning a cast iron pan, but with wood.
You season cast iron with wood? That's a new one...lol
@@MikeJ-pw7ig No, but both an aged linseed oil coating and the coating on your cast iron pans are polymerized oils. That's what makes them water resistant, and in some cases even waterproof. Aside from aesthetics, water resistance is a major reason why wood is finished with oil to begin with.
I use Howard's Feed 'N' Wax on my guitars. It seems to keep the nitrocellulose laquer from becoming brittle. My "homemade" guitars get Violin Varnish but all my tool get BLO/Paste Wax. My paste wax is a mixture of beewax, carnuba wax, orange oil, raw tung oil. The recipe is a consistency thing for me but guessing I would say 75% beeswax, 15% carnuba wax, 2% orange oil, 3% raw tung oil. I use the orange oil to soften the carnuba wax. I do it by "feel."
Thanks for the video! I'm looking for something to use on a rifle stock. I'm thinking of trying this versus poly or varnish.
There is a reason that is the traditional method.
Great video, cheers fella.
Hi one of the things I have found that works well for me is blo plus bees wax 60/40 I rub this in to my hand planes and wood surfaces. I took Paul Sellers oil rag in can and modified this to 40/60 and I wipe it on the planes soul as required. This works for me, and he'll I just a weekend warrior.
Right on. I do the same thing. I have a couple videos on that too. love the mix for lubricating tools!
Thanks for taking your time to read my comment/inquiry. I've purchased two Douglas Fir anorak chairs. The manual recommended using BLO to protect the unsealed stained finish. The chairs will be used regularly outdoors in the warm Southern California weather. Should I use the BLO with paste? If no, you suggested a poly if heavily used. Sorry, I'm a newbie so I'm not familiar with various terms. Did you mean polyurethane as poly? If yes, any poly recommendations if BLO with paste doesn't work for Douglas Fir anorak chairs?
I would not use Poly (polyurethane) outside as most do not do well in sun light. the most durable finish for out doors is a marine varnish. like this one. amzn.to/2w1Obnc that will look great for a year to 5 years depending on use but will need to be refinished from time to time. BLO and paste wax is the old way of doing it. it does not last long but it is SO MUCH easier to repair and re coat. you do not have to scrape off the old stuff to refinish it you just re apply it. but you need to do it more. 6 months - 1 year apart depending on use. Just once the finish starts looking poor. and yes you would do it just like this pore on the BLO let it soak in then rub in the wax to fill the poors. hope that helps. if you have more questions send me an email as I do not see reply.
Hi, nice video. One question please. I use snooker cue, over time grains on ash cue raise and pores can be felt while cueing. I have to send it to cue makers for refinish to get it smoother again.
Any idea , how to fill those grains and smooth the cue? Thanks.
I make my own pastewax. Bees wax and linseed oil. My cue is oak so it has the same problem.
Wood By Wright .. thanks.. I tried today myself, mixed boiled linseed oil, ting oil, & white wax polish (kiwi polish).. lol.. I will update with results.
Do how do you refinish your cue? Do you just apply your home made paste wax and it closes pores & grains etc? What you do to resmooth your cue again? Thanks
On Gardening tools if it has a varnished or lacquered handle you will most likely have obtained water blisters on your hands from prolonged use. Sand off the factory finish and apply the boiled linseed oil finish and it is far more comfortable to use. You can also wipe down the metal parts to keep them in good condition as well.
Also, reapply a little each time you use it for restoration of the nice surface.
So true. there is little that feels as good in the hand as a wooden handle with BLO on it.
Cheap in the US... plus $68 postage to Australia... :( Happens every time... You guys have so much variety of quality products but the postage makes it prohibitive to buy here.
I watch several woodworkers as I am just starting out. From the UK I found Paul Sellers and now in the US I've discovered you. I love the honest down-to-earth sensible, easy to understand, professional approach you have. Thanks Again.
+Michael Morris thanks that means a lot. I wish I could help you.
I’m an old bricklayer and we always use linseed oil for our levels. What’s this protecting your hands stuff? When my hands and fingers got mortar stained I mixed some Muriatic acid with water and soaked them in it for a few minutes. It was the only way to remove the stains.
Looks good will try that today
I just love how simple it is. You really cant mess it up
I have a butcher block counter top on my kitchen island. What’s the best finish for that type of application? I currently use just mineral oil, but it dries out so quickly.
It all depends on how picky you are with food safe finishes. For me I like my homemade boiled linseed oil and paste wax.
I'm wondering about using the paste wax bare handed. On the can I have there's a warning about neurological damage from long term exposure to the solvents. Seems like gloves would be a good idea right?
You are correct. that is why I use home made Paste wax and BLO. czcams.com/video/WiMw71UBj3M/video.html
Thanks for the great video. I'll be a regular now. Would you be able to do a video on the difference between raw and boiled linseed oil. I just can not find any info on this. I am doing a wooden deck and not sure what to coat it with?
Thanks again for the nice channel
Here you go. czcams.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/video.html
I also have a full series on making your own and a lot more BLO info here. czcams.com/video/MDPLFoWNlV8/video.html
Good tips. I use paste wax all the time. I use it on my tools too!
sweet. Thanks!
James, a good video as usual.
I would like to offer some insight into the use of any of the drying oils.
And you made a good point NOT to instruct people on how old fashioned "Boiled" linseed oil is made. Today there is a version called "Polymerized" where the oil is heated in what is more or less a vacuum or at least oxygen free chamber. This is not for the DIY community.
Thin coats I have found is much better than soaking or applying 2-3 or more coats the same day.
The chemistry is simple, if the oil is applied too thick or to much at once, it will almost never dry and cure.
My Motto for 45 years has been: Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then... Once a year there after.
Yes, some of my work is actually not ready to go out the door for a year but, if the customer is willing to do the monthly and yearly oiling... then it can go out the door the second month after the first coat of oil is applied.
In regards to Paste Wax though... read the ingredients... there is little to no oil in it. What makes the Was a paste is solvents like Mineral Spirits.
So, gloves are somewhat a requirement these days.
I make my own Paste wax and it is a slower drying one because I use Pure Turps as the solvent and a drying oil as part of my personal blend.
Keep up the great work, I hope you do not mind a veteran of 45 years of woodworking chiming in.
Walter
aka Dusty Splinters
thanks for the great info!
What do you recommend for an outdoor cedar sculpture? I like the look and feel of the BLO and paste wax finish, but want to have UV, moss, mildew protection.
It can bit it will need to be re applied every 6 months or so. Saddle there is no good finish for out doors that leaves the wood grain without getting glossy.
hey great video
just want to know if you can use it for chopping boards or any other type of finish i could use for my boards? thankyou.
+Aashif Mohammed I would not use it on chopping boards. For that I use a mineral oil or general finishes Salid Bowl Finnish.
You can make a food grade recipe with beeswax and mineral oil. I think fine woodworking has a recipe.
I want to finish a walnut shelf over a computer desk. Because I'll be pulling things off the shelf (like books, etc), would you suggest a poly, or is BLO okay?
that is up to you. BLO and Pastewax leave it looking like wood with no gloss at all but would be sufficient finish for a shelf but some people like the finished look of poly.
Hi James, Great stuff as always. I totally agree with what Bob Hoyle says. It's always better to be down to earth. Is there any difference between Minwax and Johnsons paste wax?
thnaks man! as to those two brands they work the same though the formula is a bit different.
James great video sir you give pl lots information sir
Would you recommend using BLO prior to applying stain? I've noticed that my stain and sometimes even the poly gets sucked into the wood.
+Rami Dia I do not use stain much at all. So I have never tried that. Some people will mix it in.
Hi, nice video. Is it a good idea to use spray lacquer after linseed oil for a shine finish?
+Douchebag Studios if you want. I am not a fan of lacquer, but everyone likes something difforent.
great stuff James! i like using a mix of BLO and beeswax (sounds like I just might be making homemade paste wax)
right on. I just like to let the BLO soak in more before sealing it with the wax, but that is my own oddity
Your dad told me you had gone "hand tool". Glad to find your site. Linda will be excited to see what happened to the little kid who used to make faces at people in church when you were 2 or 3. Nice video. My shop is a 24 X 48 with 24" Delta planer, 24" double drum sander, a 60" stroke sander, 2 RAS, 2 drill presses, two table saw, two 12" chop saws, 2 shapers, and most of the common power tools. Having said that I am finding I can do some things faster and better with hand tools. Keep up the good work.
Great to see you on here! I have so many great memories in your shop. It makes it's way into my videos often as the place where I made my first woodworking project. A Cub Scout Pine Wood Derby car. Are you still at the same place?
Oooops, Linda told me I had you mixed up with your little brother. We built a new House next to where we used to live and 9 years ago added a two story 24 X 48 shop with 10 foot ceilings. Designed it with external ship house so everything from the machines on the second floor goes down under the floor and out to the chip house. First floor is metal working, welders, torches, abrasive chop saw etc. The shop is on a hillside so the top floor is level with my driveway and the lower floor is at ground level on the other side.
WOW! that seems like quite the shop! now you are making me really jealous!
@@WoodByWright you should go visit and make us a vid lol
Is there any specific type of glove one should wear when using store-bought BLO? Latex v. non-latex, etc.?
+Jonas Dussell what ever you are comfortable with. It will work well with all rubbers.
do you think it's appropriate for something that will be lightly used or not at all like a frame for a picture. Should it be reapplied every now and then or it should resist on its own to time.
thank you
For hand tools it is great because the oils on your hands will keep it bright. for a picture frame you would have to reoil it once a year or so to keep the look. it is not a film finish so for a lot of furniture or anything that would be constantly rubbed it will not protect the wood. does that answer your question?
How will this type of finish work for a potting table that lives either outside or in a humid greenhouse? Should I paint or shellac it instead? Thank you!!
BLO is not a protective finish and will need to be recoated every few months when outside. If you like the look of paint that is the way to go. I would not use shellac outside. It can change colors. in the end if comes down to what type of look do you want on the wood.
@@WoodByWright thank you! I appreciate your taking the time to answer my question. :)