Audi a6 c7 Front lower Track Control Arm Replacement
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2021
- In this video I will talk you though each step required to change a front lower rear track control arm on an Audi a6 (c7), these arms are a common failure and when they start failing you can usually hear a knocking noise when driving on uneven ground caused by either the ball joint on the front of the arm failing or the rubber bush on the rear of the arm failing.
all tools required are stated at the beginning of the video for your convenience.
Please let me know if you have any questions in the comment section below.
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Great video but one thing we should do before torquing all the bush bolts up is to preload to normal drive height with a jack under the suspension, it's a good idea to measure the distance between the hub centre and the wheel arch and mark it on the wheel arch, that way your bushes will last much much longer. 😊👍
Only one thing , after the arm is replaced, i loosen the bolt thats the car frame end and using a jack i jack up the hub to about near it would be under load then tighten the big bolt as to not cause the bushing to be twisted upon lowering the car. Otherwise the control arm bushing will wear twice as fast
Came here to say the same thing. Previous shop I used didn't do this & my bushing is torn after just 18k miles. Installing it myself this time to make sure it's torqued while preloaded.
To be honest this is something I would normally do, I was short on time making the video and forgot to put it in
Great video, just a few notes if people are particular. Both the 18mm bolt and the 21mm nut for the ball joint are described as a torque-to-yield. The manuals suggest it should be replaced each time.
Further the 18mm bolt should be torqued to 70Nm + 180 degrees and the 21mm nut torqued to 140Nm, that's what my workshop manual says, it may vary for other models.
Thanks for sharing though, really clear and simple guide with some great tips.
Thanks for the Extra Info for the viewers, I could have put this information in this video like I do in others but I found myself short on time for this one
Perfect video, I had to do both of mine today.
Audi quoted me £1320 for both fitted !
I bought the 2 arms myself for £260, watched your video and fitted them myself on my drive way. Saved myself over a £1000 !
This video is perfect, i done exactly as you shown and it all went perfect.
But my nuts did not come out anywhere near as easily as yours did ! I was hammering and hammering to get that bolt out and then the side with the ball joint was also a nightmare to get out but it came in the end.
Cheers for the video
Thank you, glad I could help, and yeah I know what you mean with them being a nightmare to get out, I've had some really difficult ones in the past.
Thanks, I just swapped both of mine. I did move the hub into its normal ride height with a second Jack as the bushes will be under constant strain if you don’t do this. On the drivers side when I removed the silver cover there’s a pipe in the way and it’s a fiddle to get the bolt undone. I used a ball joint splitter but you’ll need one with 32mm jaws. I ground out a smaller one to get it over the knuckle. Thanks all the best
Happy to help 👍
Lovely. Thanks very much. Audi quoted me £1100 to do this on both sides. Bought the oem arms for £100.
Glad I helped you
Hi! Where did you bought them mate? Thank you
Excellent video and description. Very clear instructions. I rushed to subscribe and realize I already was. Great video please do more.
Thank you, there will be more videos coming in the future
Please more a6 c7 videos
Great How-To video. Very clear.
Thank you
Great video. Old but a tip for the curved control arm Ryan does first, if you turn the wheel it’s easy to get that joint back into the hub
Thanks 👍
thanks alot for the video ,helped alot.
Glad I could help
Very clear thankyou so much.. my lower arm was creaking so loudly before changing it startled people
Thank you
Hello, your video is so excellent.
Thank you 👍
❤very good explanation
Thank you 🙏
4:30 If you are reusing the arm, leave the nut on when you hit it to prevent damage to the end of the threads. Just back it off about 2 turns first for the initial loosening. If you are just pressing in a new bushing, you dont want to damage these threads.
The reason I didn't show that in the video is because with this particular arm it's usually always the ball joint that fails before the bush, meaning in this application it will be a complete arm change, I do agree with using the nut to protect the threads on other applications that require it.
@@RyansWorkshop That's weird, here all the talk is about the bushing. They don't hold up well at all. My bushing has failed twice in 115k miles. Dealers don't change arms, only press in new bushings in most cases.
@datsuntoyy I'm not sure which country you are based in but here in the UK dealers certainly won't be changing the bushes, only a straight forward arm replacement, and the reason I say it's normally the ball joints that fail first is because in the last 19 years of replacing this type of arm it's the ball joint 90% of the time.
@@RyansWorkshop I wish they'd do that here. Seriously, even if the ball joint is good, how much longer is it going to last?
I've got poly on the way so this time I'll be doing just the bushing because the ball joint has very low mileage. I think the shop torqued the bushings load off.
I need the same work doing to mine.
Where are you based, would you consider doing the work on my A7, also I need both front wheel bearings done? I can source that parts..
Great video mate! What were the symptoms of these bad bushings? My A6 is making all sorts of strange clunks and dinks and low speed when I tap the brakes.
Thanks, the main symptom in this case was a knocking when on rough terrain and when applying the brakes gently on and off
Excellent video.
Is this what the dealer would call
"Both front curved arm bushes cracking MOT Advisory £790.99 INC. VAT"
Thanks
Thank you, and yes they call them curved arms sometimes
My Audi A6 when braking feels like the ABS is kicking in, I’ve checked and it feels like this part you’re changing has play, would that cause brake pedal vibration?
Potentially it could cause vibration if it's worn badly enough
Hi Ryan, this arm is also known as the curved arm but which one is the centre arm as i have an MOT advisory for "worn straight arm centre bush" is there an arm with 3 bushes on it?
It sounds like it could be the suspension arm bush where the shock absorber connects at the bottom, it has a bush at one end, a ball joint on the other end and centre bush for shock absorber connection
Did you do alignment after this? Or not really necessary
It could be beneficial in some cases but isn't critical
what do you say to replacing JUST the bush?! If you had the tool to extract and replace the bush...
That would be ok if the ball joint was ok, but I've found that the ball joint usually fails before the bush
@@RyansWorkshop Ah. Actually its my ball joint which has gone, not the bush. A friend offered me his tools and ramps to change it all. I'd get away then with just replacing the ball joints? Can you do that with the arm still attached to the car? Thank you for your reply.
Should it not be raise before tightning?
If you mean should it have weight on it, as in not raised on the jack then yes it's ideal to preload to normal drive height with a jack under the suspension before tightening to prolong the lifespan of the rubber bushes
4:29 If you pop out the steel insert because you used a hammer on the ball joint instead of a ball joint puller you’ll really regret it.
I've done that in the past because 2 types of ball joint pullers simply wouldn't budge it, all I did to fit the insert back in was use a nut and bolt with some large thick washers to press the insert back in, when the new arm is fitted it will pull the insert all the way in and seat it correctly anyway.
Hi Mate,
Where about you base in UK?
I need good mechanic for my audi a6 c7 2.0 tdi ultra .
Get back so if you close you have new customer.
Thanks
I know exactly where you filmed this video LOL
Done in my lunch break 😁😁
maybe you know something about adblue and can help with it ?
Hello, what specifically would you like to know about it?
@@RyansWorkshop it’s my dash light on adblue fault looks like need to go in service after 600 mile or 1000 km maybe you know what to do what to change ? It’s very help full your video tanks 🙏🙏🙏
Does the adblue just need topping up? If so you should be able to do it yourself!
@@RyansWorkshop tanks always full
I would suggest it needs looking at by your local service centre then
Muss man die Spur danach einstellen?
Hi, yes I would recommend it.
Great video! Thank you!What brand do you recommend for parts? I've buy them from autodoc their much cheaper than eurocarparts or others...
Thank you, Just don't go for the cheapest one's, not had a good experience with the cheap cheap ones