An excellent video. Just what I needed. I have to build a set of steps up to our pool and a couple of smaller retaining walls. You very short video, comprehensively shot and with five or six key tips has given me the confidence to get stuck in and go order the materials I’ll need. Thanks from your newest subscriber. Well done. 👏🏼😁
Thanks @Sttm35 :) That's a bit variable. Technically they should last for +/-5-years in a damp sort of spot but can last for 10+ if the drainage is good to remove the extra water. The sleepers I used are rated H4 so - Exposure - outside in ground; Conditions - subject to severe wetting and leaching; Biological resistance - severe decay, borers and termites. For wetter conditions use H5 rated timber or just make sure that your drainage is good.
Thanks so much for this video. I need to DIY something very similar along the driveway to the basement entrance - steep slopes on each side. Anyone know the equivalent of an H4 Treated Pine Sleeper board in US?
No worries Tomi, glad you enjoyed it :) Might have to leave that one to crowd-source an answer. It seems that you do have treated pine in the US but it's often called 'pressure treated'. I noticed on the Lowes home-page that they were very clear about no ground contact so I don't know if you have a different timber rating system in the US.
Great video! Got a question about the posts that you used the quickset for. Does a frost line need to be considered when installing posts like that? I'm assuming you did NOT go below a frost line in this video. Thank you for the informative content!
Hi @Lorenzo, apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held... Thanks :) The zone it's installed in has mild winters, no freezing, so it wasn't a consideration. In-fact there are only a couple of small alpine zones in Australia where such techniques may be required.
Hi Adam great video Thanks!!, i will be watching this when i make mine :). my only question is the stair's left support @ 4:11, how is that one support nailed on top of the other if steps are all same length?
Hi @Antonio, thanks :) Glad you've found it helpful! My apologies. As the steps were a secondary part of the project I didn't really explain them in great detail. I could do a video on them alone I think! The bottom step is in-fact one 'post' width shorter than the next two steps & then the top, fourth step (which is added once the pre-fab section is in place) is one post width wider again. I just made a very quick line drawing for you. It's not to scale or anything but hopefully makes more sense of it all. Download it from here with a couple of photos of the steps that may help too www.dropbox.com/s/kfomufxpg2tnwo1/Steps%20info.zip?dl=0
Hi Adam, awesome video! I have already built my retaining wall and want to build similar stairs as you have done, but am also a little confused by the left upright/support - any chance you could explain further? Cheers, Daniel
@Adam woodhams Great video and DIY. I need this same thing done. I have a question about the steps:. How come you didn't make the risers 38mm shorter and make the treads 51mm longer (or longer) giving you about 13-14mm overhang on the riser.? This would prevent the crack that runs the whole width of the stars, to be hidden and wouldn't allow water between the tread and riser. The latter of these two will prevent washing away of soil and prevent boards constantly being wet on underside, preventing in premature rotting of wood.
Thanks @Jenky. I just worked with the sizes of the sleepers. Taking 38mm off the riser height would make them a short step too which can be uncomfortable to step up.
@@AdamHWoodhams I guess I got tangled up in metrics...what I'm trying to say is your treads should go over the risiers so that the crack is there. We use 7 to 8 inch risers and up to 10-11 inch treads. My math probably wasn't right in mm.
Masonry is great but the material is very expensive & the techniques to build are a lot more specialised especially on sloping sites. This timber, when properly installed etc. will last for 20-years if not longer.
@@AdamHWoodhams well you viewers loved it! Better remind them this system is fine for 12" step. The design will not work on taller walls.your p.t. wall is only temporary, no warrentee for bug or SUV damage. I've rebuilt my own and contracted tons of p.t. decks and walls. 10 years will about be the life span. You should be honest to you googly eyes fans!
Hi again @Mike. The design I use is only for low walls. Such walls can be built to greater heights, 1.2m+, but they require different techniques and materials especially on the posts and their footings. Here in Australia anything above 600mm (2') will often require approval from local council or relevant authority too. I'm going to assume our treated pine is different to your pressure treated timber. In Australia the treatment is against decay (rot), termites & borers. Hence the expected lifespan of 15 to 20 years IF... and big if... it's installed correctly. Most wall failures are caused by poor drainage, poor footings or a bit of both. And SUV damage? I don't reckon you can warranty any building material for that 😂🤣😂
This might sound stupid, but how does the water get into the drainage pipe? If it’s solid pipe won’t it just gather there around the pipe? I’ve seen a few videos now with the same thing going on and I can’t understand it... unless it’s the pipe with the holes in like what you use for a french drain? But that didn’t look like it?.. I don’t know can somebody help me out here I’m lost 😄
Fantastic question @Jack and it's one of those things that often goes unexplained because people like me assume everyone knows the pipe! My bad. The full name of the pipe is slotted (or perforated), corrugated agricultural drainage pipe - ag' pipe for short. Basically the whole pipe is pierced with tiny holes. The main way it works is that as the water rises up underneath or runs in from one side it enters the pipe and runs away. The corrugations serve two purposes- - They add strength. You can stand on a traditional ag' pipe and it won't crush. This means you can bury it under a pathway and things like ride-on mowers won't cause it to collapse (assuming it's a little underground of-course) - They cause the water to agitate as it flows. This stops silt and sand that makes it through the holes from settling in the pipe and therefore prevents clogging. So there you go. Everything, probably, you ever needed to know about ag' pipe.
With your rusted pipe, I would have called the utility company to clarify the issue. If it's still in use, you can cut the metal and fashion some PVC piping to go under your walkway. Nice job.
All the available plans said it wasn't live. Well, more accurately, they said it wasn't there... As it was at a right-angle to where I knew the gas main was I didn't want to risk it. And thanks.
Hi Adam, can you tell me about the filter paper you used? Where did you get it? What's it's purpose? Also, how long did you wait for the concrete to set before proceeding to fill over it.
Apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held... I just used a generic filter fabric. Most large hardware stores or landscape suppliers will sell it as drainage or filter fabric, sometimes called geo-textile fabric. It does a few things. It stops soil from getting into the gravel and clogging it up over time. It also prevents soil eroding out underneath the wall or through cracks.
By the book at least 15-years, some brands say 20+. The variables are how it's cut, how well it's drained how wet it stays etc. In most situations I'd say at least 10 but I have seen treated pine fail in 5. I've also seen badly installed masonry fail in under 5 so a lot of it is down to quality of construction.
Hi perceneij, apologies for the delay, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments... Treated pine sleepers (200 x 50 x 2.4m) are around $12 each, bags of quickset concrete are around $10/20kg bag so a wall two sleepers high would be around linear $20/m without drainage.
this looks really nice... what kind of alternative wood can be used - Ive heard treated wood can have carcinogenic chemicals in it that leach into the soil
Hey @A. Yes, CCA treated pine contains small amounts of copper chrome arsenate so shouldn't be used around food plants or where there is lots of physical contact like handrails or kids play equipment, sandboxes etc. The best options are treated with micronised iron & there are other 'safe pine' choices too. You can use hardwood too but it is heavier & hardier to work with and often that is CCA treated too. I don't like recycled railway sleepers as many of those have been chemical treated with seriously nasty stuff and have had an unknown number of years of oil & other materials dripped into them. Talk with your local supplier about safe options.
Will cincrwte or Cinder blocks be better that timber retaining wall? Is timber wood cheaper than concrete or Cinder block? Iam building a sunken fire pit patio 16ft x 20ft on a slope on the side yard of my house. I measure slope and this is what I got.. 26"/100= 26% thank u
Hery Marco, great question. Timber is the cheapest, fastest DIY-friendly option is the short answer. When you start to look at masonry - concrete or blocks of any sort - the expense climbs because you need to also install reinforced concrete strip-footings otherwise the wall will not be stable. This means a lot of excavation & work below ground before you even lay one block. One the flip-side of that masonry walls may have a longer lifespan. They won't rot, like timber eventually will however they can still tip or crack. I also always recommend that once a wall gets above say 16" (400mm) you talk with a professional about the best design as that is getting into the area of real structural retaining. Some local councils or other local governments will actually require engineering designs for walls over certain heights. Worth taking the time to look into all this stuff as it makes sure you get the best result.
Hi USMC2003, good question. There are a few variables in it all. If you assumed that minimal site preparation was required, that you didn't encounter any problems like rock or clay during excavation & that the person doing the work had an average DIY skill level then each 2.4m/8' section (by that I mean 3 upright posts with horizontal sleeper rail) should only take around 1-hour. The steps are probably the most complex part and can take a few hours to construct & then depending on size you may need help to lift into place. Hope this helps!
Hi +guadalupe cantu all the timber for the steps was 200mm x 50mm x 2400mm treated pine. This is the size used for all the horizontal rails. The upright posts are 200mm x 75mm x 2400mm
Pro Tip: Use quality landscape fabric (weed barrier) to line the whole area of dirt the gravel will be against. Then put the drain down at the bottom and fill with gravel. No need for a drain sock on the pipe. Then if desired you can put the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel and put a shallow layer of dirt, like for grass... If the gravel is not protected like that, eventually the water will fill the rock with dirt and the drain will have almost no effect.
Thanks Dave, yes you can create a 'sausage' by doing that. In this situation the main movement of fine soil would be from above and that's where I put the filter/drainage fabric.
Should have put small rocks under the runners, landscape material, then rocks again, to prevent rot also staple a thick plastic liner that's level with soil. To further promote less rot or flexing put an additional coat of weatherproof sealant or stain.
Hi Gary, thanks for watching & for the thoughts. The timber I used is treated pine (called pressure treated in the US) and has been treated to prevent rot etc. In most situations, especially one like this with a heavy slope & good natural drainage extra measures to prevent rot are not required. Using a plastic liner can, in certain circumstances in-fact lead to rot as moisture can become trapped behind or underneath it against the wood & this can lead to the timber being constantly damp. What it comes down to, as with any landscape project is to make sure you thoroughly evaluate the the situation, pick the right materials for the project & then apply the correct techniques.
@@AdamHWoodhams yup I agree completely, either a plastic liner or a thick landscape material that is cross stitched for drainage. Even if you have sufficient drainage. for me, id spend a few more bucks just to be safe, cant hurt anything by going overboard. Living in nevada you really only need to worry about mites, not so much the rot, so a thick plastic liner would suffice. Thanks again!
Hi BigBore, the drainage just prevents build-up of water behind the wall that can cause a few different problems such as timber rotting or, in the worst case, cause the wall to collapse. The idea is that the pipe picks up the groundwater as it rises or comes down the hill and then by having a small degree of fall the pipe transfers the water to a safe spot. In this case I sent it to a garden bed to water a hedge.
Hi Derpki, the structure of the drainage will always depend on the situation so can vary from wall to wall. Most silt or fines enter from the top so for smaller drains/walls such as this then gravel on top only is generally adequate. It depends on the soil too, silty soils clog faster. This soil was very sandy & rocky so less prone to having fine material moving around. On saying that it's worth understanding that corrugated pipe, such as the stuff I used, is designed to be self-cleaning, that's part of the reason for the corrugations, they create a very disturbed, not smooth, water flow which is intended to agitate soil particles & prevent them from settling and clogging the drain. This is one of the reasons it's not unusual to see very cloudy water running out of these type of pipes - they are working properly and self-cleaning. In a larger wall with mobile soil you would lay a filter fabric, lay a bed of gravel, position the pipe on this, cover with gravel, wrap the filter fabric over the gravel (think like you're creating a big sausage with the pipe in the centre) and then cover all of this with soil. On saying all this however I know many professionals who won't use filter fabric in silty soils as they have seen evidence of the fabric becoming clogged very quickly preventing drainage. They prefer the method I used, fabric just on top to prevent soil getting in when back-filling and then just letting the pipe do what it's designed to do - self-clean. If in doubt I'd recommend that you consult a professional for your particular situation. Hope this helps. Cheers Adam
my only critique is in editing. give the viewer a few more seconds of the before and after. especially the after shots. good presentation and your work looks great when finished!
Thanks for the feedback +Bob K. It's always a bit of a juggle working out timing of my videos as I like to keep them as short as is possible to respect people time but as you say sometimes it could do with lingering longer on some stuff. Cheers!
@@AdamHWoodhams You've accomplish that aim well. Thanks for being respectful to your audience, members of whom may always stop the video if they would like to linger over a frame.
Apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held... Depth will vary with soil type and wall height. A rough rule of thumb for walls that are freestanding & non-structural is that the hole should be as deep as the wall will be tall.
Yes, it is smart advance planning to do that if that's a future possibility. In this case it wouldn't be as the structure was on 'common land' on the nature-strip outside our home so I was okay to improve it for access but not add services.
@@AdamHWoodhams Solar pathway lighting would be the perfect addition and alternative and fortunately do not qualify as a service nor require wiring, just the small investment of the purchase itself. Good luck!
Hi @granbusken, no, we get a few zero ˚ C but never enough to freeze pipes. The likelihood was that it was a redundant pipe but you do make a good point.
Hi David, excellent question! Most regular un-treated timber would rot (with the exception of some hardwoods that have a natural capacity to resist rot and decay for an extended period). The timber I used is treated pine (called pressure treated lumber in the US). The pressure treating process forces substances that prevent decay deep into the timber so they can resist rot for longer. The process isn't perfect, in normal circumstances it will extend the life of the timber to as long as 10-years+ but in very damp situations you can still see rot in as little as a couple of years with the timber I used. That's one of the reasons good drainage is essential - get excess moisture away. I used H4 (hazard class 4) timber which is designed for ground contact exposed to moisture. If you had a very damp or wet situation you would want to use H5 as it's rated for extremely wet situations, even total immersion in fresh water. H6 is the extreme end & can be used underwater in salt water. So as with many things... it's a case of ensuring that you start with the right materials. Cheers Adam
Adam Woodhams thanks, I live in a normally wet or damp area but I need to put in a small retaining wall to level the ground for my shed to stand on so was wondering if I'd get away using wood that's all
Hi David, you should be fine, just ensure the wood is suitably treated. A couple of things you can do too... In known damp areas dig the post hole a little deeper and put about 50mm of drainage grave in before putting the post in. Galvanised posts can be useful too see my video here czcams.com/video/xo8pQ2VDhG0/video.html You can also excavate a small channel beneath where your planks will sit on the ground and put gravel in that too. Cheers Adam
Hi @karlo, I used soft-leaved buffalo, either Palmetto or ST-92. Both are very durable & quick to establish but ST-92 has better shade tolerance (that's what the ST means, it tolerates 92% shade, regular soft-leaf varieties will only tolerate around 50% shade)
Hi +Di General , basically it just goes in behind the wall at the lowest point & then you make sure it drains out to somewhere appropriate. It didn't dwell too long on the drainage in this video as it was more about teh timber construction but I may do a more drainage specific video in future. Stay tuned :)
Hi @MrKingjason2, apologies for the delay, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments. Lol... you're not from Australia then? That would be wild sulphur-crested cockatoos having an afternoon screech :) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulphur-crested_cockatoo
That french drain pipe is quick and easy but it is also the weakest part of the project. The pipe will not last long, will clog at the turns. The pipe will be the death of the system within 10 years. A quality pipe and it last for 100 years.
Hi, the slotted agricultural drainage pipes have a very long lifespan when properly installed & not exposed to sunlight. I have demolished walls where pipe over 20-years old was behind it & still working well. The way the corrugated pipes are engineered is to be self-cleaning. The corrugations cause the water to move in a very agitated way, rather than a straight flow. This constant agitation stops silt & sediment from settling in the pipe.
You paid to have the land surveyed for utilities. Why didn’t you have them come back and show them the pipe they missed. Let them tell you if it’s dormant or not.
Hi @ARDC, it wasn't a paid survey, it was a free service we have in Australia called 'Dial Before You Dig'. It is a service that makes all of the records of all utilities available for free. This pipe may well have pre-dated the current records so wouldn't have shown up. I would say with 99.9% confidence that the pipe was well & truly redundant but you still treat every pipe or cable conduit as if it's live. I could have skipped around mentioning this but I left it in as I believe it serves as a worthwhile caution to always be aware of hazard even if you think you're clear.
Hi Brian Z, treated pine timber when properly installed with good drainage has a lifespan of 10+ years in the landscape. I've worked in gardens where such walls have exceeded 20 years useable life. For the vast majority of domestic situations these sort of lifespans are more than adequate. Part of the advantage of using landscape screws is that if one sleeper fails prematurely then it's a reasonably easy task to replace it.
Yes it does @Brmaely. That's why I used H4 pressure treated pine. It has a lifespan of 20+ years when used properly, it's designed for in-ground use & is treated against rot & insect attack.
kyle keen people build them all the time. Done right, they can last longer than a poorly installed concrete block wall for a lot less cost. Concrete retaining walls fail too. 10 years or more is plenty of life for a wooden wall relative to the cost. Especially if it’s a shorter wall and not exactly holding back the hill. Lastly, I’ve been debating what type of retaining wall to install in my back yard because I really don’t like the look or feel of masonry and if my kids happen to run into it while playing a wooden wall is a lot more forgiving. Mines only going to be a few feet high so I’ll be using wood. 👍
Yes, all good points Edison. Thank you. Masonry walls often fail as people underestimate the size of the footings required. Technically any masonry wall needs a reinforced concrete strip footing so there's nearly as much work below ground as above.
Hi, I like the video, but it doesn't really teach me much... you assume I know how to level, etc.. Things just magically drop into place ( drop the steps in , check levels and fix off - wam bam thankyou mam) seemed like it would be easy for someone who knew what they were doing.... not me ..... when I try that everything is out of wack ?
Hi +Greg Richardson , thanks for the feedback. With a moderately complex project like this one I approach the content with what I guess you'd describe as my 'assumption of prior knowledge' being that someone attempting it would already be across many of the basics. The problem including these type of areas creates is that the video can become far too long. You raise a good point though. I might make a few 'back to basics' videos to cover some of these areas because they can make the difference between success and failure.
Thanks Adam, maybe you could reference other utubes as 'pre-learning' or 'helpers' as prior knowledge required before watching this video etc.... I kind of get a lot of it... buyt so many times i get it 80 % right and have to explain away the imperfection ( mainly to myself) - LOL
Hey, if we're ever allowed to travel again I just might take you up on the offer ;) And I really hope I don't make you feel incompetent. I aim to teach folks a little so they can do some of this stuff themselves.
@@AdamHWoodhams Thanks for the encouraging words. I have inherited a house that is daunting, to say the least, and when I look at the 2 acres of steep hilly clay soil with weed and brush in the back yard... it feels like I would rather get a can of gasoline to tackle it than any other more reasonable tools.
@@testdriver3146 No worries! And, yeah, look I can totally relate. Our last place I sometimes just wished parts of it would fall down to make my decisions easier 🤣 The old builder's saying is one worth taking on-board - 'measure it twice and cut it once...' It can be applied as much to what projects to undertake & how to do so as to the work once you're actually on the tools. Take your time & get it right first time. My single biggest piece of advice? Don't see the whole place as one project. Start to break it up into do-able mini-projects. That way it gets easier to see what to do & avoids it all getting too overwhelming. Good luck!
Hi Itz. It comes down to using the right materials and installing them correctly. The timber I used is H4 treated pine and has a life-span of 20+/- years. H4 treated timber is designed for inground use where exposed to severe wetting and is treated against termites, borers and severe decay.
no se te entiende nada.Fijas el soporte de madera con la base en cemento,¿cuando se pudra la madera,que harás? y encima no le has dado a la madera con ningun producto que lo proteja de la humedad,etc, fatal trabajo,te has gastado dinero para crearte dentro de nada mas trabajo y volver a gastar dinero,y te vuelvo a decir ,que hablando así, no se te entiende nada.
@catite1 said... "you don't understand anything. You fix the wooden support with the cement base, when the wood rots, what will you do? and on top of that you have not hit the wood with any product that protects it from moisture, etc., fatal work, you have spent money to create yourself in nothing more work and spend money again, and I tell you again, that speaking like that , you don't understand anything." Hi @catite1 The timber I used is pressure treated timber. It has a lifespan of 20+ years. It is designed for inground use even in very wet situations. It is treated against rot, fungus and insect attack. Google translate - La madera que utilicé es madera tratada a presión. Tiene una vida útil de más de 20 años. Está diseñado para uso en el suelo, incluso en situaciones muy húmedas. Se trata contra el ataque de podredumbre, hongos e insectos.
Hi @Dolores, I agree, masonry is always a more durable option but for most people the cost is way to high & outside of DIY scope. The timber I used is H4 treated pine and has a life-span of 20+ years. H4 treated timber is designed for inground use where exposed to severe wetting and is treated against termites, borers and severe decay.
Hi Adam, great video. I found it quite useful. Also the no babble straight-to-the-point format really works.
Thanks Graeme, appreciated.
I have the perfect spot that I'd like to try this. I love the looks of this design.
An excellent video. Just what I needed. I have to build a set of steps up to our pool and a couple of smaller retaining walls. You very short video, comprehensively shot and with five or six key tips has given me the confidence to get stuck in and go order the materials I’ll need.
Thanks from your newest subscriber.
Well done.
👏🏼😁
Great video Adam, thanks for sharing
Can't wait to do something like this. Awesome video, buddy!
Cheers +Andy Wilson :) Post a pic to my FaceBook Page when you do!
AMAZING VIDEO! This taught me a lot. Thanks for posting this
My pleasure +Speedy Drops glad you enjoyed it & found it useful :)
Thank you for taking the time to do this...
My pleasure Julian, glad you enjoyed it.
very good demonstration..thumbs up!!
Awesome how to video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks and glad you enjoyed it z :)
Great video, really looking forward to putting this information to use 👍
I am glad you found it helpful Alex
nice job mate, thank you.
It looks great! It really transforms that small walking area.
Thanks @SERVi. It is a pretty easy way to get a great result. Really improved our access.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful :-)
Good job mate, well explained for us amateurs!
+Richard Begazo Thanks Richard. I try to keep the explanations the same as I'd like or need to hear myself :)
Nice work!
Finally a good aussie youtuber on diy
Thanks @chelsea, glad you enjoyed!
Great video.
One of the best videos I've seen describing how to do this.
Thanks @CGS, hope it was useful!
Great vid mate
This is best DIY video in its simplicity! 2👍👍
Thanks for the kind words @nonnab :)
Brilliant 👏
great video , cheers mate
Thanks +Isaac Gutschlag :) Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good!
+David Urquhart , I hope you found it useful, thanks for your comment :)
great job
Great content!
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Ok thank you 👍🏿
Short, sweet. Perfect. Maaaaaaaaaaate
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoyed :)
Good work, good presentation. Subscribed already.
How long would the timbers last before they rot in contact with wet soil?
Thanks @Sttm35 :) That's a bit variable. Technically they should last for +/-5-years in a damp sort of spot but can last for 10+ if the drainage is good to remove the extra water. The sleepers I used are rated H4 so - Exposure - outside in ground; Conditions - subject to severe wetting and leaching; Biological resistance - severe decay, borers and termites.
For wetter conditions use H5 rated timber or just make sure that your drainage is good.
Well done project and video.
theBarefoot thanks for the comment @theBarefoot :)
All you needed to do with that surprise pipe was to encase it in concrete, then adjust your wood work around the concrete.
Thanks for sharing your information.
Not a problem Betty!
Good job. Regards from Poland! :-)
Thanks Stokrotka!
Very good idea thank you
Not a problem, glad it was useful.
Thank you for this vidéo 👍
My pleasure
Useful thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I need to DIY something very similar along the driveway to the basement entrance - steep slopes on each side. Anyone know the equivalent of an H4 Treated Pine Sleeper board in US?
No worries Tomi, glad you enjoyed it :)
Might have to leave that one to crowd-source an answer. It seems that you do have treated pine in the US but it's often called 'pressure treated'. I noticed on the Lowes home-page that they were very clear about no ground contact so I don't know if you have a different timber rating system in the US.
COOL
Great video! Got a question about the posts that you used the quickset for. Does a frost line need to be considered when installing posts like that? I'm assuming you did NOT go below a frost line in this video. Thank you for the informative content!
Hi @Lorenzo, apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held...
Thanks :)
The zone it's installed in has mild winters, no freezing, so it wasn't a consideration. In-fact there are only a couple of small alpine zones in Australia where such techniques may be required.
good tips
good work thank you
Thanks Diana :)
Hi Adam great video Thanks!!, i will be watching this when i make mine :). my only question is the stair's left support @ 4:11, how is that one support nailed on top of the other if steps are all same length?
Hi @Antonio, thanks :) Glad you've found it helpful!
My apologies. As the steps were a secondary part of the project I didn't really explain them in great detail. I could do a video on them alone I think!
The bottom step is in-fact one 'post' width shorter than the next two steps & then the top, fourth step (which is added once the pre-fab section is in place) is one post width wider again.
I just made a very quick line drawing for you. It's not to scale or anything but hopefully makes more sense of it all.
Download it from here with a couple of photos of the steps that may help too
www.dropbox.com/s/kfomufxpg2tnwo1/Steps%20info.zip?dl=0
Hi Adam, awesome video! I have already built my retaining wall and want to build similar stairs as you have done, but am also a little confused by the left upright/support - any chance you could explain further?
Cheers, Daniel
@Adam woodhams
Great video and DIY. I need this same thing done.
I have a question about the steps:. How come you didn't make the risers 38mm shorter and make the treads 51mm longer (or longer) giving you about 13-14mm overhang on the riser.? This would prevent the crack that runs the whole width of the stars, to be hidden and wouldn't allow water between the tread and riser. The latter of these two will prevent washing away of soil and prevent boards constantly being wet on underside, preventing in premature rotting of wood.
Thanks @Jenky. I just worked with the sizes of the sleepers. Taking 38mm off the riser height would make them a short step too which can be uncomfortable to step up.
@@AdamHWoodhams
I guess I got tangled up in metrics...what I'm trying to say is your treads should go over the risiers so that the crack is there. We use 7 to 8 inch risers and up to 10-11 inch treads. My math probably wasn't right in mm.
g job mate!
Thanks @Enrico :)
Awesome job! Will you be doing more videos like this soon?
Apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held...
Yes! More posted & more to come soon.
Great job if your going to move. My walls were 6x6 pt. Ripped it out and replaced it with masonry dry stack.
Masonry is great but the material is very expensive & the techniques to build are a lot more specialised especially on sloping sites. This timber, when properly installed etc. will last for 20-years if not longer.
@@AdamHWoodhams well you viewers loved it! Better remind them this system is fine for 12" step. The design will not work on taller walls.your p.t. wall is only temporary, no warrentee for bug or SUV damage. I've rebuilt my own and contracted tons of p.t. decks and walls. 10 years will about be the life span. You should be honest to you googly eyes fans!
Hi again @Mike. The design I use is only for low walls.
Such walls can be built to greater heights, 1.2m+, but they require different techniques and materials especially on the posts and their footings.
Here in Australia anything above 600mm (2') will often require approval from local council or relevant authority too.
I'm going to assume our treated pine is different to your pressure treated timber.
In Australia the treatment is against decay (rot), termites & borers. Hence the expected lifespan of 15 to 20 years IF... and big if... it's installed correctly.
Most wall failures are caused by poor drainage, poor footings or a bit of both.
And SUV damage? I don't reckon you can warranty any building material for that 😂🤣😂
Waaaohh !!!
Love the accent. Gotta dar befoya dig.
'onya matey.
This might sound stupid, but how does the water get into the drainage pipe? If it’s solid pipe won’t it just gather there around the pipe? I’ve seen a few videos now with the same thing going on and I can’t understand it... unless it’s the pipe with the holes in like what you use for a french drain? But that didn’t look like it?.. I don’t know can somebody help me out here I’m lost 😄
Fantastic question @Jack and it's one of those things that often goes unexplained because people like me assume everyone knows the pipe! My bad.
The full name of the pipe is slotted (or perforated), corrugated agricultural drainage pipe - ag' pipe for short.
Basically the whole pipe is pierced with tiny holes. The main way it works is that as the water rises up underneath or runs in from one side it enters the pipe and runs away.
The corrugations serve two purposes-
- They add strength. You can stand on a traditional ag' pipe and it won't crush. This means you can bury it under a pathway and things like ride-on mowers won't cause it to collapse (assuming it's a little underground of-course)
- They cause the water to agitate as it flows. This stops silt and sand that makes it through the holes from settling in the pipe and therefore prevents clogging.
So there you go. Everything, probably, you ever needed to know about ag' pipe.
Adam Woodhams Hey thanks for the explanation much appreciated!
With your rusted pipe, I would have called the utility company to clarify the issue. If it's still in use, you can cut the metal and fashion some PVC piping to go under your walkway. Nice job.
All the available plans said it wasn't live. Well, more accurately, they said it wasn't there... As it was at a right-angle to where I knew the gas main was I didn't want to risk it.
And thanks.
Thanks for the instructions. I need to do 15 metres of this, I guess just...rinse and repeat right? 👍
P.S. Simple, effective step construction.
Hi Adam, can you tell me about the filter paper you used? Where did you get it? What's it's purpose? Also, how long did you wait for the concrete to set before proceeding to fill over it.
Apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held...
I just used a generic filter fabric. Most large hardware stores or landscape suppliers will sell it as drainage or filter fabric, sometimes called geo-textile fabric.
It does a few things. It stops soil from getting into the gravel and clogging it up over time. It also prevents soil eroding out underneath the wall or through cracks.
what kind of concrete do you use? That look pretty easy! I have to mix mine in wheelbarrow
Hi @Rockys Mum, I used a quickset concrete that's designed for mixing in the hole. It's suitable for use in any non-structural situation.
Thanks for your respond, you have done a beautiful job!
Thank you, Adam, for your respond! I am done with my poles for the garden.
hi matey, how long does timber like that last out in the aussie elements before rotten?
By the book at least 15-years, some brands say 20+.
The variables are how it's cut, how well it's drained how wet it stays etc.
In most situations I'd say at least 10 but I have seen treated pine fail in 5.
I've also seen badly installed masonry fail in under 5 so a lot of it is down to quality of construction.
Hi great video, good to see the problems you can encounter. Would you mind giving a rough price for that job?
Hi perceneij, apologies for the delay, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments...
Treated pine sleepers (200 x 50 x 2.4m) are around $12 each, bags of quickset concrete are around $10/20kg bag so a wall two sleepers high would be around linear $20/m without drainage.
nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
this looks really nice... what kind of alternative wood can be used - Ive heard treated wood can have carcinogenic chemicals in it that leach into the soil
Hey @A. Yes, CCA treated pine contains small amounts of copper chrome arsenate so shouldn't be used around food plants or where there is lots of physical contact like handrails or kids play equipment, sandboxes etc.
The best options are treated with micronised iron & there are other 'safe pine' choices too.
You can use hardwood too but it is heavier & hardier to work with and often that is CCA treated too. I don't like recycled railway sleepers as many of those have been chemical treated with seriously nasty stuff and have had an unknown number of years of oil & other materials dripped into them.
Talk with your local supplier about safe options.
concrete sleepers
Will cincrwte or Cinder blocks be better that timber retaining wall?
Is timber wood cheaper than concrete or Cinder block?
Iam building a sunken fire pit patio 16ft x 20ft on a slope on the side yard of my house. I measure slope and this is what I got..
26"/100= 26% thank u
Hery Marco, great question.
Timber is the cheapest, fastest DIY-friendly option is the short answer.
When you start to look at masonry - concrete or blocks of any sort - the expense climbs because you need to also install reinforced concrete strip-footings otherwise the wall will not be stable.
This means a lot of excavation & work below ground before you even lay one block.
One the flip-side of that masonry walls may have a longer lifespan. They won't rot, like timber eventually will however they can still tip or crack.
I also always recommend that once a wall gets above say 16" (400mm) you talk with a professional about the best design as that is getting into the area of real structural retaining.
Some local councils or other local governments will actually require engineering designs for walls over certain heights.
Worth taking the time to look into all this stuff as it makes sure you get the best result.
How long would something like this take to do?
Hi USMC2003, good question. There are a few variables in it all.
If you assumed that minimal site preparation was required, that you didn't encounter any problems like rock or clay during excavation & that the person doing the work had an average DIY skill level then each 2.4m/8' section (by that I mean 3 upright posts with horizontal sleeper rail) should only take around 1-hour.
The steps are probably the most complex part and can take a few hours to construct & then depending on size you may need help to lift into place.
Hope this helps!
what size wood did you use for the steps, please?
Hi +guadalupe cantu all the timber for the steps was 200mm x 50mm x 2400mm treated pine. This is the size used for all the horizontal rails. The upright posts are 200mm x 75mm x 2400mm
Pro Tip: Use quality landscape fabric (weed barrier) to line the whole area of dirt the gravel will be against. Then put the drain down at the bottom and fill with gravel. No need for a drain sock on the pipe. Then if desired you can put the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel and put a shallow layer of dirt, like for grass... If the gravel is not protected like that, eventually the water will fill the rock with dirt and the drain will have almost no effect.
Thanks Dave, yes you can create a 'sausage' by doing that. In this situation the main movement of fine soil would be from above and that's where I put the filter/drainage fabric.
Should have put small rocks under the runners, landscape material, then rocks again, to prevent rot also staple a thick plastic liner that's level with soil. To further promote less rot or flexing put an additional coat of weatherproof sealant or stain.
Hi Gary, thanks for watching & for the thoughts.
The timber I used is treated pine (called pressure treated in the US) and has been treated to prevent rot etc. In most situations, especially one like this with a heavy slope & good natural drainage extra measures to prevent rot are not required. Using a plastic liner can, in certain circumstances in-fact lead to rot as moisture can become trapped behind or underneath it against the wood & this can lead to the timber being constantly damp. What it comes down to, as with any landscape project is to make sure you thoroughly evaluate the the situation, pick the right materials for the project & then apply the correct techniques.
@@AdamHWoodhams yup I agree completely, either a plastic liner or a thick landscape material that is cross stitched for drainage. Even if you have sufficient drainage. for me, id spend a few more bucks just to be safe, cant hurt anything by going overboard. Living in nevada you really only need to worry about mites, not so much the rot, so a thick plastic liner would suffice. Thanks again!
What's the drainage for and how does it work.
Hi BigBore, the drainage just prevents build-up of water behind the wall that can cause a few different problems such as timber rotting or, in the worst case, cause the wall to collapse. The idea is that the pipe picks up the groundwater as it rises or comes down the hill and then by having a small degree of fall the pipe transfers the water to a safe spot. In this case I sent it to a garden bed to water a hedge.
Need to lay gravel/clean rock below the perforated pipe as well otherwise your drainage system will get clogged with soil fines.
Hi Derpki, the structure of the drainage will always depend on the situation so can vary from wall to wall.
Most silt or fines enter from the top so for smaller drains/walls such as this then gravel on top only is generally adequate. It depends on the soil too, silty soils clog faster. This soil was very sandy & rocky so less prone to having fine material moving around.
On saying that it's worth understanding that corrugated pipe, such as the stuff I used, is designed to be self-cleaning, that's part of the reason for the corrugations, they create a very disturbed, not smooth, water flow which is intended to agitate soil particles & prevent them from settling and clogging the drain.
This is one of the reasons it's not unusual to see very cloudy water running out of these type of pipes - they are working properly and self-cleaning.
In a larger wall with mobile soil you would lay a filter fabric, lay a bed of gravel, position the pipe on this, cover with gravel, wrap the filter fabric over the gravel (think like you're creating a big sausage with the pipe in the centre) and then cover all of this with soil.
On saying all this however I know many professionals who won't use filter fabric in silty soils as they have seen evidence of the fabric becoming clogged very quickly preventing drainage. They prefer the method I used, fabric just on top to prevent soil getting in when back-filling and then just letting the pipe do what it's designed to do - self-clean.
If in doubt I'd recommend that you consult a professional for your particular situation.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Adam
awesome video. too bad about that pipe though.
Hey @moonblink, glad you enjoyed it :)
And yes... the joys of discovery ;)
my only critique is in editing. give the viewer a few more seconds of the before and after. especially the after shots. good presentation and your work looks great when finished!
Thanks for the feedback +Bob K. It's always a bit of a juggle working out timing of my videos as I like to keep them as short as is possible to respect people time but as you say sometimes it could do with lingering longer on some stuff.
Cheers!
Pause the video and admire
@@AdamHWoodhams You've accomplish that aim well. Thanks for being respectful to your audience, members of whom may always stop the video if they would like to linger over a frame.
How deep should the holes be for the posts about 3FT?
Apologies for the delay in reply, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments that have been held...
Depth will vary with soil type and wall height. A rough rule of thumb for walls that are freestanding & non-structural is that the hole should be as deep as the wall will be tall.
Would have run an electrical conduit at the same time to add lighting for a night walk.
Yes, it is smart advance planning to do that if that's a future possibility.
In this case it wouldn't be as the structure was on 'common land' on the nature-strip outside our home so I was okay to improve it for access but not add services.
@@AdamHWoodhams Solar pathway lighting would be the perfect addition and alternative and fortunately do not qualify as a service nor require wiring, just the small investment of the purchase itself. Good luck!
@@iveywin everything he has done is a service since its not his. Solar lights are expensive for the right ones and work half good winter months.
Never freezing temperatures there? Thinkin of the pipe you discovered, couldnt be much coverage left..
Hi @granbusken, no, we get a few zero ˚ C but never enough to freeze pipes.
The likelihood was that it was a redundant pipe but you do make a good point.
Good👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Do .we have to pay to (Dial before you dig) get the plan for the services underneath the ground level.
Hi @Nish, so sorry for the delay in reply. No. 'Dial Before You Dig' is 100% free.
@@AdamHWoodhams. Thanks
Teach me how to build those steps
Thank u
No problem, glad it was helpful.
quick question won't the wood rot being in contact with the ground?
Hi David, excellent question!
Most regular un-treated timber would rot (with the exception of some hardwoods that have a natural capacity to resist rot and decay for an extended period).
The timber I used is treated pine (called pressure treated lumber in the US). The pressure treating process forces substances that prevent decay deep into the timber so they can resist rot for longer.
The process isn't perfect, in normal circumstances it will extend the life of the timber to as long as 10-years+ but in very damp situations you can still see rot in as little as a couple of years with the timber I used. That's one of the reasons good drainage is essential - get excess moisture away.
I used H4 (hazard class 4) timber which is designed for ground contact exposed to moisture.
If you had a very damp or wet situation you would want to use H5 as it's rated for extremely wet situations, even total immersion in fresh water.
H6 is the extreme end & can be used underwater in salt water.
So as with many things... it's a case of ensuring that you start with the right materials.
Cheers
Adam
Adam Woodhams thanks, I live in a normally wet or damp area but I need to put in a small retaining wall to level the ground for my shed to stand on so was wondering if I'd get away using wood that's all
Hi David, you should be fine, just ensure the wood is suitably treated. A couple of things you can do too...
In known damp areas dig the post hole a little deeper and put about 50mm of drainage grave in before putting the post in. Galvanised posts can be useful too see my video here czcams.com/video/xo8pQ2VDhG0/video.html
You can also excavate a small channel beneath where your planks will sit on the ground and put gravel in that too.
Cheers
Adam
Nice!
Thanks :)
What's the name.of the grass you used?
Hi @karlo, I used soft-leaved buffalo, either Palmetto or ST-92. Both are very durable & quick to establish but ST-92 has better shade tolerance (that's what the ST means, it tolerates 92% shade, regular soft-leaf varieties will only tolerate around 50% shade)
Adam Woodhams Do they sell the seeds in walmart or home depot?
@@nehivo996 lol this is Australian. No home depot or Walmart.
I guess he’s an uphill gardener.
Underrated comment 😂😂😂
Until things go downhill.
That's what America is trying to do at this very moment, build a retaining wall, only on a very larger scale😎
lol... may need a bit more than treated pine for that one...
Where do we steal an old bread crate?
lol... you'll find a lost of reclamation stores sell them.
Good job but I didn't see how the plastic piping was done
Hi +Di General , basically it just goes in behind the wall at the lowest point & then you make sure it drains out to somewhere appropriate. It didn't dwell too long on the drainage in this video as it was more about teh timber construction but I may do a more drainage specific video in future. Stay tuned :)
Why didn't you cut the pipe?
Hi @Gail, I suspected that it was redundant however there was a slight chance that it was gas...
Adam Woodhams
Wow! Thanks for replying.
I don't get it. You take out a sod slope to install two tiers of sod.
Main idea was to create a level pathway & entry @rc. It was an annoying slope with no 'formal' entry point into the garden so got rid of that.
Anyone hear that goddamn pterodactyl screaming in the background 😳😳😳
Hi @MrKingjason2, apologies for the delay, CZcams hasn't been notifying me of comments.
Lol... you're not from Australia then? That would be wild sulphur-crested cockatoos having an afternoon screech :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulphur-crested_cockatoo
Should've cut the pipe.
Yes, it probably would have bee a lot easier & could have made great video if it was live 🤣
That french drain pipe is quick and easy but it is also the weakest part of the project. The pipe will not last long, will clog at the turns. The pipe will be the death of the system within 10 years. A quality pipe and it last for 100 years.
Hi, the slotted agricultural drainage pipes have a very long lifespan when properly installed & not exposed to sunlight. I have demolished walls where pipe over 20-years old was behind it & still working well.
The way the corrugated pipes are engineered is to be self-cleaning. The corrugations cause the water to move in a very agitated way, rather than a straight flow. This constant agitation stops silt & sediment from settling in the pipe.
You paid to have the land surveyed for utilities. Why didn’t you have them come back and show them the pipe they missed. Let them tell you if it’s dormant or not.
Hi @ARDC, it wasn't a paid survey, it was a free service we have in Australia called 'Dial Before You Dig'.
It is a service that makes all of the records of all utilities available for free.
This pipe may well have pre-dated the current records so wouldn't have shown up.
I would say with 99.9% confidence that the pipe was well & truly redundant but you still treat every pipe or cable conduit as if it's live. I could have skipped around mentioning this but I left it in as I believe it serves as a worthwhile caution to always be aware of hazard even if you think you're clear.
I thought you were supposed to mix the concrete before putting it into the dirt or even using a cylinder and placing the post into a cylinder.
Hi @citticat2. The premixed concrete I used is a product designed for blending in the hole. You generally only need collars in loose or sandy soils.
great and more fun a few years from now when its all rotten and needs replacing
Hi Brian Z, treated pine timber when properly installed with good drainage has a lifespan of 10+ years in the landscape. I've worked in gardens where such walls have exceeded 20 years useable life.
For the vast majority of domestic situations these sort of lifespans are more than adequate.
Part of the advantage of using landscape screws is that if one sleeper fails prematurely then it's a reasonably easy task to replace it.
Wood rots.
Yes it does @Brmaely. That's why I used H4 pressure treated pine. It has a lifespan of 20+ years when used properly, it's designed for in-ground use & is treated against rot & insect attack.
not enough detail
Hey @Thomas, let me know what bits you need more info on and happy to oblige!
Folks, having a wood retaining wall, pressure treated or not, is a bad idea!! Nothing else needs to be said. Don't do it.
Hi Kyle.
I'd be interested to know why you say this.
Cheers
kyle keen people build them all the time. Done right, they can last longer than a poorly installed concrete block wall for a lot less cost. Concrete retaining walls fail too. 10 years or more is plenty of life for a wooden wall relative to the cost. Especially if it’s a shorter wall and not exactly holding back the hill. Lastly, I’ve been debating what type of retaining wall to install in my back yard because I really don’t like the look or feel of masonry and if my kids happen to run into it while playing a wooden wall is a lot more forgiving. Mines only going to be a few feet high so I’ll be using wood. 👍
Yes, all good points Edison. Thank you.
Masonry walls often fail as people underestimate the size of the footings required. Technically any masonry wall needs a reinforced concrete strip footing so there's nearly as much work below ground as above.
Hi, I like the video, but it doesn't really teach me much... you assume I know how to level, etc.. Things just magically drop into place ( drop the steps in , check levels and fix off - wam bam thankyou mam) seemed like it would be easy for someone who knew what they were doing.... not me ..... when I try that everything is out of wack ?
Hi +Greg Richardson , thanks for the feedback.
With a moderately complex project like this one I approach the content with what I guess you'd describe as my 'assumption of prior knowledge' being that someone attempting it would already be across many of the basics. The problem including these type of areas creates is that the video can become far too long.
You raise a good point though. I might make a few 'back to basics' videos to cover some of these areas because they can make the difference between success and failure.
Thanks Adam, maybe you could reference other utubes as 'pre-learning' or 'helpers' as prior knowledge required before watching this video etc.... I kind of get a lot of it... buyt so many times i get it 80 % right and have to explain away the imperfection ( mainly to myself) - LOL
+Greg Richardson leave it with me. I'm thinking now about a series of short 'basics' vids :)
I would let you stay in my house in the USA for free if you helped out in the yard!
You sure make me feel incompetent...
Hey, if we're ever allowed to travel again I just might take you up on the offer ;)
And I really hope I don't make you feel incompetent. I aim to teach folks a little so they can do some of this stuff themselves.
@@AdamHWoodhams Thanks for the encouraging words. I have inherited a house that is daunting, to say the least, and when I look at the 2 acres of steep hilly clay soil with weed and brush in the back yard... it feels like I would rather get a can of gasoline to tackle it than any other more reasonable tools.
@@testdriver3146 No worries! And, yeah, look I can totally relate. Our last place I sometimes just wished parts of it would fall down to make my decisions easier 🤣
The old builder's saying is one worth taking on-board - 'measure it twice and cut it once...' It can be applied as much to what projects to undertake & how to do so as to the work once you're actually on the tools. Take your time & get it right first time.
My single biggest piece of advice? Don't see the whole place as one project. Start to break it up into do-able mini-projects. That way it gets easier to see what to do & avoids it all getting too overwhelming.
Good luck!
never make these out of wood they‘re gonna rot away within 10 yr
Hi Itz.
It comes down to using the right materials and installing them correctly.
The timber I used is H4 treated pine and has a life-span of 20+/- years. H4 treated timber is designed for inground use where exposed to severe wetting and is treated against termites, borers and severe decay.
Adam Woodhams thanks adam
no se te entiende nada.Fijas el soporte de madera con la base en cemento,¿cuando se pudra la madera,que harás? y encima no le has dado a la madera con ningun producto que lo proteja de la humedad,etc, fatal trabajo,te has gastado dinero para crearte dentro de nada mas trabajo y volver a gastar dinero,y te vuelvo a decir ,que hablando así, no se te entiende nada.
@catite1 said... "you don't understand anything. You fix the wooden support with the cement base, when the wood rots, what will you do? and on top of that you have not hit the wood with any product that protects it from moisture, etc., fatal work, you have spent money to create yourself in nothing more work and spend money again, and I tell you again, that speaking like that , you don't understand anything."
Hi @catite1
The timber I used is pressure treated timber. It has a lifespan of 20+ years. It is designed for inground use even in very wet situations. It is treated against rot, fungus and insect attack.
Google translate - La madera que utilicé es madera tratada a presión. Tiene una vida útil de más de 20 años. Está diseñado para uso en el suelo, incluso en situaciones muy húmedas. Se trata contra el ataque de podredumbre, hongos e insectos.
You know it's a good video but don't do a wood project in the garden. You're asking for trouble. Masonry all the way.
Hi @Dolores, I agree, masonry is always a more durable option but for most people the cost is way to high & outside of DIY scope. The timber I used is H4 treated pine and has a life-span of 20+ years. H4 treated timber is designed for inground use where exposed to severe wetting and is treated against termites, borers and severe decay.
awful interviewer, awful questions, god awful audio, awkward as hell.
Thanks for the +ve feedback 😂🤣😂
I'll pass it on to the 1.1million folks that have watched it 😉