New subscriber here. Excellent instructions and disclaimer on electrical. I am a retired electrical engineer and have a lot of respect for the power of electricity. The builder put in a Cutler Hammer but all the sub panels I have stuck with Square D so breakers can be used in any of those places. Thanks for the video. I am about to put in an external GFCI covered outlet in our back yard. I have the same split trim for my vinyl siding. All the best from north Texas.
As someone who only does these type of projects every once in a while, I appreciate all of the clarifying details you added in that I would normally need to look up and confirm such as white always going to silver… I also will be grabbing some duct seal! Thank you 😊
Great video! Thank you so much, explained everything perfectly. It’s nice to watch a professional electrician do this and not some average Joe on CZcams. I feel like I have the confidence to do the same install after watching this video.
Thanks! Any questions don’t hesitate to ask! I think the only thing I would change if I did it again was the mounting block style. They a bunch of different variations including one with the box built in so it sticks out a little less.
This guy covered everything in less than 15 minutes. Makes you wonder why other people carry on for 20+ minutes, yackety yack yackin, and barely teach anything. Learn from THIS guy!
The plastic strain reliefs made for romex wont fit the threaded 1/2” hole, they only fit a 1/2” knockout. I ended up using a 1/2” snap in bushing. The wire has to be stapled inside the house within 12” of the box anyways so not a big deal if you’re worried about the wire being secure. If you use a metal romex strain relief for that threaded hole on the box, the hole into the house would have to be much larger, like 1”.
@@theguyofalltrades thank you. Just so I understand (since I have several boxes to install) is the purpose of the bushing to protect the wire from the knockout threads? Or just to plug up more space in the hole? I want to make sure I use one if it's required by code, but I originally just intended to use some duct seal putty. Hard to find specific info about threaded knockout requirements online, so thank you.
Line is incoming from breaker or existing circuit. Load is for if you want to add an additional receptacle downstream and have it gfci protected without having to add an additional gfci. It will be protected by the first one
Unfortunately not even close. A Tesla charger requires a dedicated 50amp 240volt circuit. Same install concept though. Pick a location, run the correct gauge wire, install charger and wire then add the circuit to the panel with a new breaker
New subscriber here. Excellent instructions and disclaimer on electrical. I am a retired electrical engineer and have a lot of respect for the power of electricity. The builder put in a Cutler Hammer but all the sub panels I have stuck with Square D so breakers can be used in any of those places. Thanks for the video. I am about to put in an external GFCI covered outlet in our back yard. I have the same split trim for my vinyl siding. All the best from north Texas.
Fellow EE here too and licensed E1. Thanks for subscribing!
As someone who only does these type of projects every once in a while, I appreciate all of the clarifying details you added in that I would normally need to look up and confirm such as white always going to silver… I also will be grabbing some duct seal! Thank you 😊
Welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you so much, explained everything perfectly. It’s nice to watch a professional electrician do this and not some average Joe on CZcams. I feel like I have the confidence to do the same install after watching this video.
Thanks! Any questions don’t hesitate to ask! I think the only thing I would change if I did it again was the mounting block style. They a bunch of different variations including one with the box built in so it sticks out a little less.
Excellent and legal! 👍
Thanks. That’s the only way if I want to keep my electrical license lol.
This guy covered everything in less than 15 minutes. Makes you wonder why other people carry on for 20+ minutes, yackety yack yackin, and barely teach anything. Learn from THIS guy!
Straight and to the point always. No fluff. Who wants to watch that lol
Absolutely agree
Curious what specific strain relief device you used? The ones I have are push-in and don't seem to fit into threaded knockouts. Thanks!
The plastic strain reliefs made for romex wont fit the threaded 1/2” hole, they only fit a 1/2” knockout. I ended up using a 1/2” snap in bushing. The wire has to be stapled inside the house within 12” of the box anyways so not a big deal if you’re worried about the wire being secure. If you use a metal romex strain relief for that threaded hole on the box, the hole into the house would have to be much larger, like 1”.
@@theguyofalltrades thank you. Just so I understand (since I have several boxes to install) is the purpose of the bushing to protect the wire from the knockout threads? Or just to plug up more space in the hole? I want to make sure I use one if it's required by code, but I originally just intended to use some duct seal putty. Hard to find specific info about threaded knockout requirements online, so thank you.
To protect the wire. You can also use a bulkhead fitting. Most work I’ve seen doesn’t use one and I’m surprised they don’t get called out
I swear I see 8.2 likes on every wiring videos I see.
Haha. People are greedy. They don’t realize how much it helps us out to push video to more people. Like share and save it what the algorithm wants.
Line is the hot connection?
Load is for down the line?
Sounds backwards to me. 5:05
Line is incoming from breaker or existing circuit. Load is for if you want to add an additional receptacle downstream and have it gfci protected without having to add an additional gfci. It will be protected by the first one
@@theguyofalltrades okay thanks, I’m doing it now.
what mounting block did you use?
It's in the description, you can also get the same one at HD or Lowes
This is great! Could that handle a Tesla charger?
Unfortunately not even close. A Tesla charger requires a dedicated 50amp 240volt circuit. Same install concept though. Pick a location, run the correct gauge wire, install charger and wire then add the circuit to the panel with a new breaker
That's a sigma box 😂