How To: Replace the bearing in a Idler pulley
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- How to rebuild idler pulleys yourself, with a few basic tools, most pulleys are 20 dollars or more, and the only part that usually goes bad is the bearing, which is usually a 5 or 10 dollar part. this it how to take a non-rebuild-able pulley and make it rebuildable. I've Included a link to a top quality Timken bearing that will fit almost all mower pulleys here, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
and a cheaper but still good option here
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
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Your video just helped me save $$ giving me hope that i can replace bearing on a similar type of idler pulley. Save the environment by not throwing away useful pulley. thanks again.
sam kassam glad to help
A trick : you can watch series at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Jorge Gregory definitely, I have been watching on flixzone for months myself :D
@Jorge Gregory Yea, have been using Flixzone for since december myself :)
@Jorge Gregory yup, have been using Flixzone for months myself :D
You’ve inspired me to use my angle grinder or Drexel tool to do this job.😀
Having the pulley apart is a good opportunity to use a japanese bearing with the same dimensions. I also like to open the seal and add synthetic bearing grease to the replacement, because it seems there is never enough put in at the factory. Many of my replacements have not needed further attention in years. When I replace rivets with hardware, I use grade 5 hardware with blue loctite and flat washer on both sides if the application involves something like an AC compressor that will stress the pulley and hardware. I've had a pulley fly apart a while back when I used cheap zinc bolts and nuts. There is a reason these pulleys are welded at the factory, and high quality fasteners will prevent this from happening.. Also make sure the bolts and nuts are exactly the same so the pulley remains nice and balanced, esp. for larger diameters. China has factories that can produce some very fine quality bearings and related components, but, like anything from China, its the raw materials like the alloys and metal components that are suspect; Some Chinese bearings simply wear out prematurely because the components are not hard enough to withstand the stresses of the application, even with the very best grease money can buy. Same is true for cheap parts like suspension and front end components, which wear out in months rather than years, and will actually break rather than just wear out. This is especially true for ball joints.
I have a 08 Dixon ZTR, with a 50" deck. My idler pulley bearing was going out and pretty much did what you did.... I also found the bearing was a 6203RS which is 17x40x12mm. Must be really common. Amazon, TSC had them... Amazon was about the same price if you have Prime and can wait 2 days. Your video was pretty clear and easy to follow. Thanks.
Thanks man glad it helped ya
Found the easiest way to remove a captured bearing, is to cut 8 pie shape segments around bearing, only on one side, then pry up segments, and remove bearing. Install bearing and stake down segments. Good luck 🤞
That’s a good idea, thanks for sharing
Excellent instructions. Clear and precise. Thanks
Yes, that 6203 is used in a ton of applications.
Please don't hammer or beat on bearings.
Use an arbor press if possible.
Brinelling extremely shortens the life of a bearing.
I’ve heard that but in practice I’ve never had a issue. The bearings I pound in last longer than the factory assembled pulleys I buy
@@creepycrawler43 Agreed, it's not real critical on a mower deck .
Where the bearings will fail anyway from dirt and contamination before anything else.
Still best not to beat on them during install.
Drill bit doctor comes in handy also
Great vid. Thank you. Just what I needed.
When I ran into that, I was mad as hell b/c the only reason they did that was to force a rebuilder to spend $42. for a $6. Bearing.
I did the same thing, except I used red lock tight on the threads of the new screws.
I drill a 1/8 hole also for timing purposes
RS probably stands for Rubber Seal. The rubber (or plastic) seals are reusable and pop in and out, but the ones that are shielded are easily bent as the shield is made of metal and are more difficult to reinstall. Good to put in a little more grease, but don't overfill them, as that causes them to overheat.
I know you were pressed for time, however since its apart doesn't hurt to clean it up with a wire wheel and repaint. I like bolts or screws with some loctite in case I ever need to replace again.
Yep nothing wrong with cleaning it up or using
Bring number????
It’s a great way to save money plus it’s easy to replace again if needed
what brand that's the important question?
I noticed one was getting loud on the trail. I did this many years ago, and accidentally broke a drill bit and drilled through my finger!
Mine has a pretty bad one. one of these days...
for real
You missed one...!
for $13.00 you get a new one, delivered free. How much is your time worth?
I like spending time in the garage, and this takes less time than the 40 minute drive to tractor supply, I keep a stack of bearings on hand that I get cheap off the internet. Plus this allows you to upgrade to a nice Koyo or Timken bearing vs Chinese garbage bearing
The pulley on my gravely is $50!!
$13 my ass, some of these pulleys go for over $50 depending on the model
I'm running into this problem with my gravely right now. Older Pro model and at 40 Bucks a pulley x 4 you do the math. Only issue I'm running into is this offset steel bushing
@@krazykozey2259 just use a washer to offset it...
JD and there cheap ass plastic bushings 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️
Dremel....