heater core in my VW Passat TDI shit the bed so had to replace it. this is the half ass video of changing it out. please like and Subscribe. Happy New year to all! www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/v...
I just did ours this last weekend on a TDI. PRO Tip!!! If you can't get the two tubes apart, cut the heater core tubes using a hacksaw blade. Then you can slide the old core right out and then use pliers to break the o-ring seal and slide the two pieces out of the aluminum lines. I then used some Scotch Brite and cleaned up the inside of the tubes a bit also purchased new o-rings from the dealer. I did not want to chance having a leak under the dash. All is well and the car now has heat again.
I tried everything to get them back together and no luck. Had it on for 2 weeks now and no leaks. LOTS of heat, now the Wife is complaining it's too Hot LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@doserdiesel Going to have to give this Jerry Rig a shot.. those flanges are bloody small. I ended up damaging them trying to fit the pipes together. There's no way it'll seal on its own now.
I'm having the same problem man and you are the first person I've seen with it as well. I've had 3 different buddies try to get those pipes to go in but they just wont go, I thought about using the radiator hose as well but I got a new heater core and gasket set coming gonna see if that will work. If not I'm gonna wing it like this
After trying this I cannot get it to work without a little drip from the top hose... Freezing where I'm at right now just left it in there with a drip into a rag, hopefully it warms up soon and I can get a fix done because I'm kicking myself for even starting this job because I can't get it finished and she's sitting out in the driveway lol. Feel like an idiot
This job seems really easy, getting it out I just bent the pipes, wasted alot of time trying to wiggle them out. I did it when it was freezing out aswell, had a hell of a time even getting the core out. Now getting the pipes to go back together is another hole animal. I tried everything I could think of. So I said F it and just went with the heater hose option. I used 1" hose and tried to get the pipes as close as I could and just clamped down on the flanges as tight as I could. This car was in the driveway for over a week because it got to -40 here and I was not about to try and fix it in that. If the heater hose option is still leaking you could also use some RTV or the Right Stuff sealant around it for a temp Fix if ya need the car. It might also just seal it up for you. I am going to figure out a way of getting the pipes out from the Firewall and just replace them with heater hose, so if the core craps out again it would be a 10 min job.
@@doserdiesel I appreciate the reply man, these VWs are no fun to work on there's always something. As far as the sealant goes I had that idea to seal the hoses on each end but I'm not sure it will hold for long with the car on and pressure in the system. I don't know much about cars and I took this job on just because I was feeling myself after fixing my EGR and boy do I regret it this has been a nightmare. Tomorrow I'll try the sealant on the hoses if that doesn't work I got new Core & Gaskets coming friday hopefully I can get something to work or she's getting towed in and my mechanics not gonna be happy lol.
No worries man. The Right stuff is pretty good and resistant to blow outs. It might stop it until you get the new one. Once ya get the new one ya have to bend the lines on it to get it to line up, so go easy on them because they can break the welds and will leak again. Once I got the new one I just tried to line up the lines and have them touching then put the heater hose over top of the flanges tighten them down, you can also use the Right stuff and make sure it will never leak.
@@doserdieselthank you so much for the video. I am having an issue with the connection leaking because the hoses comming from the fire wall are so beat up they won't seal properly. Can you tell me what size rad hose worked for you to get you going?
KY jelly or silicone lube on the o-rings makes them slide better. You can also get a large pair of needle nose to pinch the gap. Starting the top tube first makes it easier because it's rigid and has no flex where the bottom has a millimeter or two to play with. Definitely not a job you want to do in the cold because the plastic gets brittle and it doesn't let you manipulate anything. That's why I'm not doing mine till the spring. Hope your jubilee patch works if not you're going to have a hot foot.
Just fill the coolant tank above half with the cap off, let the engine Idle. Squeeze the Radiator hoses on both sides and you will see it bubble in the coolant tank. Also you can Rev the engine or keep the engine above 2k rpm for 20 seconds and that will filter the coolant into the core. Check the bottom line on the core if it gets hot and you should be good to go. Check the level in the coolant tank if it drops add to half or whatever it says on the tank. Check it after you go for a drive.
See if you can find some 1" heater hose at a local parts store with some clamps. Slip the heater hose over the one end so you can get the other end to come together as far as it goes. Slip the heater hose over the the part that won't come together all the way and use the clamps to secure the hose over it. Use about 2" of hose. That should seal it up, watch for leaks and tighten the clamps every once and awhile. That should work I had to do that with mine.
Does it leak with the heater hose and clamps? I put new o rings on but as I press the pipes together the new o rings are being pressed out the sides and getting pinched. Having a heck of a time and I’m on day 4 of the job. I have to keep walking away from it! Definitely frustrating.
Have you figured out how to put hoses through the firewall to the heater core yet? I just bought a 2013 Passat TDI for my daughter. I bought it at night. I swore I would never do that again. I bought a lemon about 20 years ago at night and did the same thing with this Passat. Major oil leak, broken motor mount, completely shot lower control arm bushings, Tires out of round (had to buy new tires), After having the tires installed They told me the wheels were bent (vibrated horribly. When I first drove it I just thought the tires were out of balance. So I had to buy new wheels), and now the heater core, I guess (heat out of drivers side vent only). Shop told me oil leak was from the valve cover. That cost $900 to replace and lower control arms were $1000. I saw a drop of oil in the driveway, so I crawled under it and I still have the same major oil leak. Back to the shop tomorrow. Never buy a vehicle at night or in the rain. Sorry just venting!
Hey man no worries. I have not figured it out, but it seems like you have to take the dash apart. I sold the passat recently and picked up a BMW x5 Diesel.
I just did ours this last weekend on a TDI. PRO Tip!!! If you can't get the two tubes apart, cut the heater core tubes using a hacksaw blade. Then you can slide the old core right out and then use pliers to break the o-ring seal and slide the two pieces out of the aluminum lines. I then used some Scotch Brite and cleaned up the inside of the tubes a bit also purchased new o-rings from the dealer. I did not want to chance having a leak under the dash. All is well and the car now has heat again.
I had to user the heater hose and hose clamps. Way easier , it’s been two weeks and no leaks at all . Thanks for idea !
Your VW may have too many miles now, but these Passats often have a heater core warranty that runs for 10 years / 120k miles
Im about to clamp those two hoses too 🤣
Make em tight and check them periodically just in case
@doserdiesel still trying to wiggle em on but, I'll try a but longer then switch to that plan
@@doserdieselwhat did it end up being?
@ScottyShook-dw3qm the heater core was bad.
Thank you for the Jerry riging option had to do this today as well
I tried everything to get them back together and no luck. Had it on for 2 weeks now and no leaks. LOTS of heat, now the Wife is complaining it's too Hot LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@doserdiesel can I ask if you went to the auto parts store or hardware store for hose and clamps?
Jw having a hard time finding a hose that goes over that thick ring..
@@justinvalenzuela4438 I used 1" heater hose, any big truck place should sell it. Or parts place.
@@doserdiesel Going to have to give this Jerry Rig a shot.. those flanges are bloody small. I ended up damaging them trying to fit the pipes together. There's no way it'll seal on its own now.
I'm having the same problem man and you are the first person I've seen with it as well. I've had 3 different buddies try to get those pipes to go in but they just wont go, I thought about using the radiator hose as well but I got a new heater core and gasket set coming gonna see if that will work. If not I'm gonna wing it like this
After trying this I cannot get it to work without a little drip from the top hose... Freezing where I'm at right now just left it in there with a drip into a rag, hopefully it warms up soon and I can get a fix done because I'm kicking myself for even starting this job because I can't get it finished and she's sitting out in the driveway lol. Feel like an idiot
This job seems really easy, getting it out I just bent the pipes, wasted alot of time trying to wiggle them out. I did it when it was freezing out aswell, had a hell of a time even getting the core out. Now getting the pipes to go back together is another hole animal. I tried everything I could think of. So I said F it and just went with the heater hose option. I used 1" hose and tried to get the pipes as close as I could and just clamped down on the flanges as tight as I could. This car was in the driveway for over a week because it got to -40 here and I was not about to try and fix it in that. If the heater hose option is still leaking you could also use some RTV or the Right Stuff sealant around it for a temp Fix if ya need the car. It might also just seal it up for you. I am going to figure out a way of getting the pipes out from the Firewall and just replace them with heater hose, so if the core craps out again it would be a 10 min job.
@@doserdiesel I appreciate the reply man, these VWs are no fun to work on there's always something. As far as the sealant goes I had that idea to seal the hoses on each end but I'm not sure it will hold for long with the car on and pressure in the system. I don't know much about cars and I took this job on just because I was feeling myself after fixing my EGR and boy do I regret it this has been a nightmare. Tomorrow I'll try the sealant on the hoses if that doesn't work I got new Core & Gaskets coming friday hopefully I can get something to work or she's getting towed in and my mechanics not gonna be happy lol.
No worries man. The Right stuff is pretty good and resistant to blow outs. It might stop it until you get the new one. Once ya get the new one ya have to bend the lines on it to get it to line up, so go easy on them because they can break the welds and will leak again. Once I got the new one I just tried to line up the lines and have them touching then put the heater hose over top of the flanges tighten them down, you can also use the Right stuff and make sure it will never leak.
@@doserdieselthank you so much for the video. I am having an issue with the connection leaking because the hoses comming from the fire wall are so beat up they won't seal properly. Can you tell me what size rad hose worked for you to get you going?
KY jelly or silicone lube on the o-rings makes them slide better. You can also get a large pair of needle nose to pinch the gap. Starting the top tube first makes it easier because it's rigid and has no flex where the bottom has a millimeter or two to play with. Definitely not a job you want to do in the cold because the plastic gets brittle and it doesn't let you manipulate anything. That's why I'm not doing mine till the spring. Hope your jubilee patch works if not you're going to have a hot foot.
So good so far! Going to be taking the bent pipes out when it gets warm here.
The Rock Auto hose hookups are too big for the VW hoses; my mechanic said he had to grind down the hookups until they fit inside the hoses.
Any special method for refilling or purging the coolant afterwards?
Just fill the coolant tank above half with the cap off, let the engine Idle. Squeeze the Radiator hoses on both sides and you will see it bubble in the coolant tank. Also you can Rev the engine or keep the engine above 2k rpm for 20 seconds and that will filter the coolant into the core. Check the bottom line on the core if it gets hot and you should be good to go. Check the level in the coolant tank if it drops add to half or whatever it says on the tank. Check it after you go for a drive.
Could the heater core be why I hear a liquid noise in my dash behind the gauge cluster sometimes on my 2014 Passat tdi?
Could be. If you take the panel off right by your Foot, t20 torx check to see if there is any Coolant Leaking from the heater core.
@@doserdiesel I’ll take it off, it only happens at highway speed after driving a while and the heater does not work in the slightest
@@w140fan Most Likely the heater Core is clogged if you are not getting any heat when the Car is up to Temp.
I’m hearing this too. What ended up happening?
Hello i got same problem in my 2014 passat upper hose is not connecting properly while i trying to change heater core any suggestions
See if you can find some 1" heater hose at a local parts store with some clamps. Slip the heater hose over the one end so you can get the other end to come together as far as it goes. Slip the heater hose over the the part that won't come together all the way and use the clamps to secure the hose over it. Use about 2" of hose. That should seal it up, watch for leaks and tighten the clamps every once and awhile. That should work I had to do that with mine.
Can you please post the socket size for the 4 screws on the black heater core cover?
6mm
i just bought one yesterday from VW it was $17.00 rock auot was $65.
For a heater Core? You got a killer deal then. From VW here they are well over 300 Canadian.
@@doserdiesel All data said it was 17 on our estimator at work. i couldn't believe it so called and confirmed the price.
@@crazydave203 That's a crazy Deal, at our Local parts Store it was 220 So that's why I went with Rock Auto.
Does it leak with the heater hose and clamps? I put new o rings on but as I press the pipes together the new o rings are being pressed out the sides and getting pinched. Having a heck of a time and I’m on day 4 of the job. I have to keep walking away from it! Definitely frustrating.
Mine didn't leak, but I did keep an eye on them and tightened them occasionally. It was a very frustrating job on mine aswell. Hope it works out.
What did the heat problem end up being?
It ended up Being the Battery.
@thatoneguy6725 did u ever figure it out? because I'm having that same problem!
All that work and still no heat on passanger side? This vw has been a huge pita for me. Did you figure out a solution?
Ya it was the heater core that went bad.
Is it the same for a 2015?
Yes it should be the same for a 2015. What other details were you looking for? Let me know and maybe I can help more.
How much is the cost of replacement
Check rock auto they are not that expensive
Have you figured out how to put hoses through the firewall to the heater core yet? I just bought a 2013 Passat TDI for my daughter. I bought it at night. I swore I would never do that again. I bought a lemon about 20 years ago at night and did the same thing with this Passat. Major oil leak, broken motor mount, completely shot lower control arm bushings, Tires out of round (had to buy new tires), After having the tires installed They told me the wheels were bent (vibrated horribly. When I first drove it I just thought the tires were out of balance. So I had to buy new wheels), and now the heater core, I guess (heat out of drivers side vent only). Shop told me oil leak was from the valve cover. That cost $900 to replace and lower control arms were $1000. I saw a drop of oil in the driveway, so I crawled under it and I still have the same major oil leak. Back to the shop tomorrow. Never buy a vehicle at night or in the rain. Sorry just venting!
Hey man no worries. I have not figured it out, but it seems like you have to take the dash apart. I sold the passat recently and picked up a BMW x5 Diesel.
I wish you would’ve showed the whole process. I suck & im new
Passat b6 is the worst cars in the history to work on
The most pain in the ass job I've ever had to do
1000% agree!