Uncover The Secret To Sharp Photos: Solve Blurry Images Now!
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- čas přidán 29. 07. 2024
- Why aren't your photos sharp? In this video, I'll cover all the reasons why your photos may not be sharp and how to solve it in the field.
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0:00 - Why your photos aren't sharp
0:47 - Low quality lens
2:00 - Kit lenses
2:29 - Aperture and sharpness
3:57 - f/22 and diffraction?
5:03 - Shutter speed and Image stabilization
5:42 - Tripod tips for sharpness
7:11 - Settings on tripod
8:01 - Sharpness is it important?
9:00 - Difficult case and more image stabilization
12:00 - Telephoto stabilization
12:39 - How to problem solve, what to be aware of
17:04 - Focal lengths influence on sharpness
18:04 - Focusing for landscape photographers
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I’m always amazed about little things I never knew about my own equipment. When you just switched to portrait by turning the lens with the lens collar… d’oh! I didn’t know I could do that. Oh my gosh!
It’s so good that you did this video in the field, rather than in your studio. Great video for those that are struggling with focus.
Okay, you just answered my question from a video you shared two years ago. It's great to know you still use the Tamron lens
You should have also mentioned that with wind, even if the camera is on a tripod, the camera strap can cause vibration and out-of focus situations, specially on long-exposures. I noticed you use Peak Design products. Their quick-connect system for camera straps is great, as you can quickly remove the strap while the camera is on a tripod (which I notice you do). I do the same as soon as my camera goes on a tripod (I keep the strap on my neck and loop one end through the other side of the strap, that way it is at the ready to reconnect and does not get dirty lying on the ground). I greatly enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing!!
Hello Mats,
I'm so extremely embarrassed... I've been taking pictures for, I can't even say it, for over thirty years and today I saw something in your video that made me delighted and at the same time incredulous. Whenever I've worked with a large lens, trying to shoot a portrait image has become very tricky. Because I always tilted the camera and ball head on the tripod. For reasons I can't explain, it never occurred to me that the screw on the lens is there to turn the camera and the lens around! Thank you so much for this heavenly insight!!!!!
Greetings Juerg
Hi Jürg, I love when I manage to make such a difference! When I first saw it, I was "wow'ed" as well :D
Haha, my jaw dropped too :)
Good tips, Mads. I particularly enjoyed the skipping at the end. Really top-notch.
Great shooting tips! I only use tripods with thumb clamps.
Good points here Mads. With regards to tripods, one thing that is often forgot is dampening. Here I'm talking about carbon fibre compared to aluminium. A carbon fibre tripod will be better with regard to get more sharper images as aluminium tripods is more prone to vibrations. Also getting spiked feet for the tripod will help anchor the tripod into the ground for more stability.
Silent mode will not giving you much if you use a dslr (with mirror). Here the tip is to either use mirror lock-up or if you don't have mirror lock-up, live view.
Yes, that's a good point. I've been using mirrorless for so many years now I forgot to mention the mirror lock-up. Definitely important to remember for a DSLR shooter :)
I was writing the same about the spikes. Truly a game changer for me :)
@@vagabondshoes_it Spikes makes a world of difference. Especially if you get like the long 3 Legged Thing with rubber balls over the spikes so you're not impaling everything when you carry the tripod, and also saves you the trouble to remove the spikes when you need them covered. 🙂
Thanks Mads!
Great tips Mads! Thanks
Excellent Made! I do love your style!
Very helpful! Thanks!
Many thanks for these practical tips, Mads. I particularly appreciate that you've drilled down to issues that confront many of us - like "where should I focus," and "should I always turn off VR when using a tripod," etc. Helpful stuff!
Thanks for reminding us about tightening all the trip knobs.
I counted 5 things to tighten: the lens collar, foot plate, ball head, pano knob, tripod legs (of which there are actually 9). I have had pictures with movement, because a tripod leg was slowly telescoping downward under the weight of a telephoto lens, which I did not realize in the field. Thanks again Mads for a great video !
Much of this I knew, but this is a great reminder. Keep teaching us !! Denmark is beautiful!
Great tips Mads. Tak. Rodders 👍
Lots of great tips, thanks for sharing.
Great video as usual thank you
Hi Mads, thanks for a great Video stuffed with good Tips. Learnd something New.
Excellent content. I love your videos.
Another great video on your part Mads; Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for the time you invest in making these vids 👍
Well done Mads.
Love your videos, you explain the topics so good 💯
very useful advice as always!!! Thank you!
Thanks Mads, I turn the image stabilization off on my lens when using a tripod, but I never thought about turning it off in the camera. Great tip!! Thanks again!!
Thanks, great video
Cool stuff Mads, beautiful scenery there alone made this worth watching. No skipping to the end! LOL! Have a great day!
Excellent video, great reminders.. being there are so many, keeping one's nuts tight, is a very special tip indeed. Thank you Mads
You gave me some very useful tips that I will try my best to capture better quality photos
Mads I always watch your channel but for me this one is a diamond of information very thorough on camera stabilisation with tripod in which I found to be a problem until now thank you.
Thanks!
Just awesome tutorial....❤❤❤🤝🏻
Mads, this was a very practical and good tutorial on getting sharp images when in the field. One thing I noticed was you weren't using a lens hood on your lens. Even in low wind conditions, a lens hood could affect sharpness by causing a little movement when it gets breezy.
Super tips and explanations. A great instructional video Thanks so much and keep up the excellent work.
Great video Mads! I'm always interested in any tips you have when using the a7r5! I've had my camera a little over 4 weeks now and it is insane! Great for birds, and great for landscapes!👍👍👍
Great information Mads. I would like to add that we have to be careful when shooting at longer exposures, even less than a second, that there isn't wind moving grass/leaves etc around in the image which would give the impression that the image isn't sharp. Even if the tripod is as steady as a rock, if the subject is moving a bit in the wind, it can look unsharp. So look at your scene and decide if your subject really is stationary first before deciding on iso/shutter speed.
WooW... Thanks for advice
... it's always good to listem to you.... good tips... i have to check if i have this silent mode in my camera... thank you.... 🤗
WAtched this again... as a general rule I've heard that 2-stops down from wide open to about f/11 for most lenses is the general sweet spot (even f/8 to f/11, but in some cases you can get away with f/16). I woulid personally try to aim for f/5.6 to f/11 though personally as I've found most lenses, from more budget lenses to high-end lenses, are sharpest within this range, even if you use the 2-stop suggestion on fast lenses like f/2 lenses, I still wouldn't necessarily shoot at f/4 necessarily, but might consider f/5.6 or f/8 (as some fast primes only close down to f/16). The best thing you can do is to get a test chart and test your lenses against a sharpness chart and determine what focal lengths and apertures your lens is sharpest at (I would do this when you get the lens to make sure it's not defective, and definitely test it before your first outing, so you know where it is sharp, and where it perhaps is not as sharp and can be aware of this while shooting in the field -- it takes a bit of time at first, but can pay off in the long run as you'll know the characteristics of your lens(es)).
For the shutter, what I've done (and haven't quite fully mastered) is to roll your finger across the shutter release button, not just push it down. But roll your finger across it. This minimizes shake. It isn't as good as using a shutter release or the self timer, but it's better than just simply pressing straight down on the shutter button (either to focus and/or to fire the shutter). This is something i got from one of Moose Peterson's videos that's been helpful, but again, still working on it myself, but has helped in many shots.
For DSLR users, if your camera has a "mirror up" mode, wher it locks up the mirror before taking the exposure, take advantage of this especailly using a remote control. If your camera has something like exposure delay mode, you could use that too (some Nikon cameras have this, and Sony and Canon may have a similar feature, similar to the self timer but usually shorter intervals, like between 0.2s and 3s delays from the time the shutter is pressed).
Mads, really enjoyed your content here. Many CZcamsrs seem to be addressing the issue of focus and sharpness these days, but your content seemed more practical and expansive to the real issues. I enjoy your teaching style and just want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and passion. As alway, keep snapping!
Thank you, Alan. Yeah, I recorded this a month ago and it seems everyone else covered it in the meantime 😅
Could you talk more about electronic shutter versus mechanical shutter? The pros and cons, and when you would use one verse the other?
Yes, please. Elaborate on this feature, what is the difference, why does bit depth reduce, etc. Thanks, Mads.
Just use mechanical. There is a use case for electronic like Mads showed on a tripod with no movement, but anything moving, use mechanical as it reads the sensor in one go, and no in lines like an electronic shutter.
TC 15:20 looks like Mr. Pike got his breakfast - look just in front of the barrel of the lens. 😀 Really enjoy watching your videos Mads, thanks for sharing them.
Teh centre column on tripods often have hocks on them. I have seen professionals attach sand bags on them, but if you are on the move you can attach your backpack to the center colomn to make the tripod more stable.
good range of tips Mads and focus stacking is something I use regularly in my architectural work especially if I am capturing a look up image. I would rather have the data and not need it later than regret not having it especially when the location is not local to where I live. Nice selection of images too to compliment your various tips today
I completely agree about that. Missing that one essential piece of data is so frustrating!
Отличное видео, спасибо 🙏
you are number one.
I see you have a live view magnification on AF-ON button. I have that function on on c2 (a7riv), but I use that AF-ON button for a different trick: I have set AF-ON to Play function (the same as the Play button at the bottom of back side of camera). That way I can press AF-ON once for a picture review and the second time to zoom it. This double press is much faster for reviewing sharpeness and even for single press for reviewing whole images it is easier to reach than the regular Play button at the bottom.
Heads up for Sony APS-C users - using silent shooting reduces your image bit depth from 14-bit to 12-bit.
I also had an issue with the 70-350mm as there is no tripod bracket and the centre of gravity is really far forward and causes the lens to 'tip' which can blur long exposures.
I got round this by ordering a 3rd part camera collar with a tripod mount a lot further forward so the camera now balances.
That's a very important factor to consider! :)
Here is an interesting observation I once made. I don't rely on focus peaking, but I enable focus peaking to get close. Then I zoom in on the LCD to get the manual focus precise. I was framed up using my fast prime but felt the composition was too wide. I switched over to my standard zoom kit lens to get the right focal length. I noticed that the focus peaking wasn't indicated on the LCD using my kit lens. Some day I'll go back and experiment to see if cropping in on my prime is more sharp than not cropping on my kit lens zoom.
Great info/reminders! Wish I could hit the Like button twice; once for the info and again for the skipping at the very end! :-)
Point 1 is 100% me. I have a 24-2000mm lens (yes, 2000mm, not 200mm). It seemed like a good idea but I think in actual use I could probably paint a landscape with more clarity and detail.
what is that underneath ur camera , the red one ,
i have sony a7r5 and this is very helpfull
Thanks for the video mads, but my photos are sharp.... Yes I use a carbon tripod. I use a very light one day and initially I was sceptical whether this tripod work, but I use the new Ulanzi Y8 tripod
Mads, why I never saw you using the shutter release cable? I don't like 2-second delay because it's not long enough for the tripod vibration to die down
Nice Cam and L bracket 😏
And perfect tutorial
[Sony A7RV] Sony and even Mark Galer say that you can leave the Steady Shot ON when you are on a tripod, and only on this model. Do you agree with this? What is your experience? Thanks for your feedback!
Fuji's kitlenses are the exception as a pro lens.
Can I use tamron 28-200 lens instead of sony 100-400 and crop and enlarge the photo? Considering that my camera is sony a7riv and it is 60 megapixels.
Your tips about sharpness are very helpful, especially your description between in focus and sharpness, I do have questions about electronic shutter verses mechanical shutter. Do you know if anybody has done a in depth comparison of the two modes in modern mirror less cameras? I routinely shoot my 100-400 sigma at low shutter speeds with the mechanical shutter and do not notice any difference in sharpness the few times I've switched to electronic shutter. Even when I do astro photography, I can tell no difference between a shot using the mechanical shutter, or the electronic shutter. When properly focused and with the right shutter speed, the stars appear exactly the same in both shots. Could this be a throw-back rule from the DSLR days. I completely understand the fact that the "slap" of a mechanical shutter may cause movement, does it really affect the sensor? Especially since the "slap" occurs before the exposure and after the exposure. Just food for thought. Love your work. Cheers.
It does make a difference for me. But it's in the "semi slow shutter speeds". At 1/500 or 10 seconds it doesn't matter, but sometimes at like 1/10 or something like that it can be an issue.
@@MadsPeterIversen Thanks Mads. I didn't even think about those shutter speeds.
I’m curious why you didn’t mention the Hyperfocal method??
Add a stone bag to your tripod. This simple 10 euro accessory will allow a large rock to stabilize the tripod. Large megapixel cameras show all the defects of a lens so new lenses are needed for the latest cameras and not adapted older lenses.
Great video🐉👍😀🐘🌴🙏,!!! When we see your tamron 50-400 review? I hope you get it soon.👍
Well, I need to get it first, but I don't have a proper lens to combine it with. If someone makes a 16-50mm, I'm all in ;)
Yes, 16-50 f4, can Be solution for alot. I think Tamron can make it. Zeiss can do it too, but then lense would be too Big and expensive. (Sharper too). Can you call to you friends in Tamron and ask them to do that? 😀👍
hi Matts
Don’t you use the 7R-V built-in focus stacking function?.
Sometimes :)
Hi Peter, do you shoot RAW or JPEG, Thanks Daniel
Why are my photos sharp in camera versus after download to computer ?
Hey Mads, we met at the airport in the Faroe Islands a couple of days ago. Did the focus failure I told you about give you the idea for this video? 😉😅
Hi there :)
Nah, I recorded this weeks ago ;)
Is there an easy way to test if it's your lens or its you that is causing the softness? I generally have an issue with distant subjects (greater than a hundred feet or so) being soft, close up objects don't have that problem. Whether it's on a tripod or not, and regardless of aperture.
That's a good question, if you've checked all focal lengths and all apertures, my estimated guess is that it must be something in your setup 🤔
@Mads Peter Iversen I'm so new to all of this I don't know where to start to start ruling out things so I can get it sorted. I prefer to blame the setup though because it obviously can't be my fault, right? 🤣🤣
@@compostdave lol, well, technically you're the one setting it up 😅 try turning IS on or off both on the lens and in the camera, try with both 2 seconds of shutter delay anf 5 and also silent shutter if that's possible in your camera.
@Mads Peter Iversen unfortunately I don't have any IS on my setup. When it's on a tripod I use a remote shutter but I haven't tried silent shutter yet. I'll do that next time I go out, thanks!
If you compare tamron at f16 and then the Sony at f9 it's obvious the tamron is less sharp due to diffraction... It's not a fair comparison
The general rule I've gone with (and it's pretty consistent) is 2 stops down, and preferably between f/8 and f/11 for maximum sharpness, although I have found on some -- such as my ultra wide, I can get away with 5.6 and it doesn't look any less sharp than f/8 in practice -- real world use -- on a test chart at 100% you can notice minor differences but nothing you'd see at regular viewing distance or in print). Again, I've found this to work on most of my lenses (some I can get away with f/16, but I rarely even shoot at f/16. I'd rather focus stack at f/8 or f/11 (two shots) and combined them in post. It does add more work to the workflow but I think it gives a better result and minimizes the possibily of diffraction.
While this is a general rule that most people go by, I would recommend people spend some time with a test chart, in doors (consistent lighting) and run through all apertures (or at least the full-stop apertures) and major focal lengths to see where their lenses perform best (the apertures are more important than the focal lengths, but still a good test to do especially if you've just bought a lens...) These tests can be helpful as they can tell you where the lens's weak spots might be, and where it is tack sharp and this info can help you make better / faster decisions in the field). It takes a bit especially if you have a long telephoto like a 70-200 2.8 lens, but the info you gain from it is valuable, and you really only have to do the test once to get the necessary info about the performance of the lens. And it's a great exercise and way to test a lens to see if it's defective or not.
If you are serious about landscape photography, it may be worth putting a bit of money into the tripod legs and getting one that is taller than you need, so you can retract the last leg segment for stability reasons. Also, I would look for one that DOESN'T have a center column at all. I've found even with some good tripods, the center columns are not entirely stable even if you crank down on the knobs to tighten the column so it doesn't move. The best is to get a carbon fiber tripod that doesn't have a center column at all. If you find yourself in a windy condition, sometimes leaving IS and IBIS on can do more good than harm, but this depends on the situation (there have been times i turned it off, and should have left it on in reality).
Which one is sharper? Sony 100-400 or sigma 100-400 sony.
You'll have to check out Dustin Abbots CZcams channel for that answer :)
Get the heaviest tripod you can get your assistant to carry.
i want to be with u to teach me 😢
Nobody mentions unsharp could be a hardware issue. Camera or lens.
Hmm, turn off image stabilisation because you are on a tripod then set a 5 second delay because the tripod could be moving....
Por favor, alguien que traduzca y ponga unos subtítulos en español para los que no hablamos inglés pero somos seguidores de Mads
It's CZcams who generate the subtitles, not something I can control, sorry...
@@MadsPeterIversen thanks, i love your photos
@@MadsPeterIversen Ahora sí, qué bien! 👌💃
Ps. I loved you skipping at the end.
So basically you have to photostack to get sharpness